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HAND-BOOK 


OF 


PRACTICAL     COOKERY, 

FOR 

LADIES  AND  PROFESSIONAL  COOKS. 


CONTAIN™  a 

THE   WHOLE  SCIENCE  AND   ART  OF  PREPARING 
HUMAN  FOOD. 


BY 

PIERRE     BLOT, 

PROFESSOR  OF  GASTRONOMY,  AND  FOUNDER  OF  THE  NEW  TOOK 
COOKINO  ACADEMT. 


"If  ye  be  willing  and  obedient,  ye  shall  eat  the  good  of  the  land.' 


NEW    YOBK: 

D.    APPLETON     AND     COMPANY, 
1,    8,    AWD    0    BOND    8TEEET. 

1884. 


o 

r\r 


ENTKKED,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  18C7,  t>y 

D.   APPLETON  &  CO., 

lu  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  tbo 
Southern  District  of  New  York. 


PREFACE. 


FOOD  is  the  most  important  of  our  wants;  we 
cannot  exist  without  it.  The  man  who  does  not  use 
his  brain  to  select  and  prepare  his  food,  is  not  above 
the  brutes  that  take  it  in  its  raw  state.  It  is  to  the 
physique  what  education  is  to  the  mind,  coarse  or  re- 
fined. Good  and  well-prepared  food  beautifies  the 
physique  the  same  as  a  good  and  well-directed  educa- 
tion beautifies  the  mind.  A  cook-book  is  like  a  book 
on  chemistry,  it  cannot  be  used  to  any  advantage  if 
theory  is  not  blended  with  practice.  It  must  also  be 
written  according  to  the  natural  products  and  climate 
of  the  country  in  which  it  is  to  be  used,  and  with  a 
perfect  knowledge  of  the  properties  of  the  different 
articles  of  food  and  condiments. 

Like  many  other  books,  it  is  not  the  size  that 
makes  it  practical;  we  could  have -made  this  one 
twice  as  large  as  it  is,  without  having  added  a  single 
receipt  to  it,  by  only  having  given  separate  ones 
for  pieces  of  meat,  birds,  fishes,  etc.,  that  are  of  the 


418544 


*  PREFACE. 

same  kind  and  prepared  alike.  All  cook-books  writ- 
ten by  mere  compilers,  besides  giving  the  same  re- 
ceipt several  times,  recommend  the  most  absurd 
mixtures  as  being  the  best  and  of  the  "  latest  French 
style." 

Although  cookery  has  made  more  progress  within 
two  or  three  years,  in  this  country  as  well  as  in 
Europe,  than  it  had  since  1830,  and  although  all 
our  receipts  are  complete,  practical,  wholesome,  and 
in  accordance  with  progress,  still  they  are  simple. 
Our  aim  has  been  to  enable  every  housekeeper  and 
professional  cook,  no  matter  how  inexperienced  they 
may  be,  to  prepare  any  kind  of  food  in  the  best  and 
most  wholesome  way,  with  economy,  celerity,  and 
taste ;  and  also  to  serve  a  dinner  in  as  orderly  a  man- 
ner as  any  steward  can  do. 

We  did  not  intend  to  make  a  book,  such  as  that 
of  CAREME,  which  cannot  be  used  at  all  except  by 
cooks  of  very  wealthy  families,  and  with  which  one 
cannot  make  a  dinner  costing  less  than  twenty  dol- 
lars a  head.  Such  a  book  is  to  housekeepers  or  plain 
cooks  what  a  Latin  dictionary  is  to  a  person  of  merely 
elementary  education. 

If  we  give  so  many  different  ways  of  preparing 
the  same  article  of  food,  it  is  not  with  a  view  to  com- 
plicate cookery,  but  people's  taste  is  in  food  as  in 
rlress,  differing  not  only  in  the  selection  of  colors,  but 
also  in  shape ;  therefore,  by  our  variety  of  dishes  and 
our  different  styles  of  decorating  them ;  by  the  ease 


PREFACE.  0 

that  they  can  be  prepared  in  the  cheapest  as  well  as 
in  the  most  costly  way,  we  think  we  have  met  all 
wants  and  all  tastes.  The  wealthy,  as  well  as  those 
in  limited  circumstances,  can  use  our  receipts  with 
the  same  advantage. 

Our  division  of  cookery  and  the  system  of  arran- 
ging bills  of  fare,  contained  in  these  pages,  solve  that 
great  and  perplexing  question,  especially  for  ladies, 
how  to  arrange  a  bill  of  fare  for  every  season,  to  suit 
any  number  of  guests,  at  a  greater  or  less  expense,  as 
they  may  desire.  Every  one  knows  that  money  alone 
cannot  make  good  dishes;  however  good  the  raw 
materials  may  be,  they  require  proper  preparations 
before  being  palatable  and  wholesome. 

TO   HOUSEKEEPERS  AND   COOKS. 

A  cook  book  cannot  be  used  like  a  dictionary ;  a 
receipt  is  like  a  rule  of  grammar :  to  comprehend  it 
thoroughly,  it  is  indispensable  to  understand  others. 
The  author,  therefore,  earnestly  recommends  to  his 
readers  to  begin  by  perusing  carefully  the  directions, 
etc.,  at  the  beginning  of  the  book,  and  also  the  expla- 
nations given  on  and  heading  the  different  articles  of 
food,  before  attempting  the  preparation  of  a  dish  for 
the  first  time.  They  will  thus  soon  be  able  to  pre- 
pare any  dish  by  merely  reading  the  receipt.  If  all 
the  explanations  necessary  were  given  at  every  re* 
ceipt,  this  work  would  have  filled  more  %han  ten 
volumes  like  the  present. 


6  PREFACE. 

We  are  aware  that  the  study  of  cookery  is  as 
uninviting  and  dry  as  the  study  of  grammar  at  first ; 
so  is  the  study  of  every  science  and  even  art ;  but  it 
becomes  comparatively  easy  and  interesting  after  a 
while.  Mere  flourish  in  a  receipt  would  have  the 
same  effect  as  in  a  rule  of  grammar. 

TO   COOKS. 

We  think  the  following  friendly  recommendations 
will  not  be  out  of  place  here.  They  are  in  the  inter- 
est of  both  the  housekeeper  and  the  cook : 

Make  use  of  every  thing  good. 

Waste  nothing,  however  little  it  may  be. 

Have  no  prejudices. 

Be  careful,  clean,  and  punctual. 

Always  bear  in  mind  that  routine  is  the  greatest 
enemy  of  progress,  and  that  you  have  agreed  to  faith- 
fully perform  your  daily  duties  for  a  certain  consider- 
ation. 

PIERRE   BLOT. 

NEW  YORK,  August,  1867. 


CONTENTS. 


FAOI 

COOKING, 9 

DIRECTIONS,  EXPLANATIONS,  ETC.,         .  .  16 

DIVERS  RECEIPTS, 44 

POTAGES  OR  SOUPS, Cl 

SAUCES, 97 

FARCES  AND  GARNITURES,  .  .  .  .113 

FISH, 125 

BEEF, 162 

MUTTON,     .  . 184 

TEAL,    .  .  .  «  .  .  .  .  202 

PORK,          .......        226 

POULTRY, 237 

GAME, .276 

VEGETABLES, 305 

EGGS,  MACARONI,  AND  RICE,  .  .  .356 

SWEET  DISHES,         .  .  .  .  „  .876 

PASTRY,     ....  .  .  .409 

BILLS  OF  FARE,        .  „  .  .  .  .459 

INDEX,  .  .  .  .  465 


CO  OKING. 


THE  science  and  art  of  cooking  may  be  divided 
ten  principal  parts ;  the  rest  is  all  fancy.  These  ten  parts 
are  :  BAKING,  BOILING,  BROILING,  FRYING,  MIXING,  ROAST- 
ING, SAUTEING,  SEASONING.  SIMMERING,  and  STEWING. 

Tasting  is  an  adjunct  to  all. 

Baking. — In  baking,  see  that  the  furnace  or  oven  be 
properly  heated;  some  dishes  require  more  heat  than 
others.  Look  at  the  object  in  process  of  baking  from 
time  to  time,  and  especially  at  the  beginning,  turn  it 
round  if  necessary,  in  case  it  be  heated  more  on  one  side 
than  on  the  other,  to  prevent  burning. 

In  baking  meat  and  fish,  besides  keeping  the  bottom 
of  the  pan  covered  with  broth  or  water,  place  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper  over  the  object  in  the  pan ;  it  not  only 
prevents  it  from  burning,  but  acts  as  a  self-basting  opera- 
tion, and  keeps  the  top  moist  and  juicy. 

If  the  top  of  cakes  bake  faster  than  the  rest,  place  a 
piece  of  paper  on  it. 

In  most  of  our  receipts,  we  give  the  degree  of  heat 
necessary  to  bake  the  different  objects ;  it  will,  no  doubt, 
be  found  valuable  information. 

Boiling. — This  is  the  most  abused  branch  in  cooking  ; 
we  know  that  many  good-meaning  housewives  and  even 
1* 


10  COOKING. 

professional  cooks  boil  things  that  ought  to  be  prepared 
otherwise,  with  a  view  to  economy ;  but  a  great  many 
do  it  through  laziness.  Boiling  requires  as  much  care 
as  any  other  branch,  but  they  do  not  think  so,  and  there- 
fore indulge  in  it. 

Another  abuse  is  to  boil  fast  instead  of  slowly.  Set  a 
small  ocean  of  water  on  a  brisk  fire  and  boil  something  in 
it  as  fast  as  you  can,  you  make  much  steam  but  do  not 
cook  faster ;  the  degree  of  heat  being  the  same  as  if  you 
were  boiling  slowly. 

If  the  object  you  boil,  and  especially  boil  fast,  con- 
tains any  flavor,  you  evaporate  it,  and  cannot  bring  it 
back. 

Many  things  are  spoiled  or  partly  destroyed  by  boil- 
ing, such  as  meat,  coffee,  etc. 

Water  that  has  been  boiled  is  inferior  for  cooking  pur- 
poses, its  gases  and  alkali  being  evaporated. 

Broiling. — Whatever  you  broil,  grease  the  bars  of  the 
gridiron  first. 

Broiling  and  roasting  is  the  same  thing;  the  object  in 
process  of  cooking  by  either  must  be  exposed  to  the  heat 
on  one  side,  and  the  other  side  to  the  air. 

Bear  in  mind  that  no  one  can  broil  or  roast  in  an  oven, 
whatever  be  its  construction,  its  process  of  heating,  or  its 
kind  of  heat.  An  object  cooked  in  an  oven  is  baked. 

It  is  better  to  broil  before  than  over  the  fire.  In  broil- 
ing before  the  fire,  all  the  juice  can  be  saved. 

In  broiling  by  gas,  there  is  a  great  advantage.  The 
meat  is  placed  under  the  heat,  and  as  the  heat  draws  the 
juice  of  the  meat,  the  consequence  is,  that  the  juice  being 
attracted  upward,  it  is  retained  in  the  meat. 

A  gas  broiler  is  a  square,  flat  drum,  perforated  on  one 
Bide  and  placed  over  a  frame. 


COOKING.  11 

Broiling  on  live  coals  or  on  cinders  without  a  gridiron 
js  certainly  not  better  than  with  one,  as  believed  by  many ; 
on  the  contrary,  besides  not  being  very  clean,  it  burns  or 
chars  part  of  the  meat. 

That  belief  comes  from  the  fact  that  when  they  par- 
took of  meat  prepared  that  way,  it  was  with  a  sauce  that 
generally  accompanies  hunters,  fishermen,  etc., — hunger — 
the  most  savory  of  all  savory  sauces. 

Frying. — That  part  of  cooking  is  not  as  difficult  as  it  is 
generally  believed,  and  properly  fried  objects  arc  good  and 
do  riot  taste  greasy. 

To  fry  requires  care,  and  nothing  fried  will  taste 
greasy  if  it  has  been  dropped  in  fat  properly  heated  and 
in  enough  of  it  to  immerse  the  object. 

When  an  object  tastes  greasy,  it  is  not  because  it  has 
been  fried  in  grease,  but  because  there  was  not  enough  of 
it,  or  because  it  was  not  properly  heated ;  for,  if  heated 
enough  it  closes  the  pores  of  the  object  and  carbonizes 
the  exterior,  so  that  it  cannot  absorb  any. 

Directions  for  Frying. — Prepare  what  you  intend  to 
fiy  according  to  the  directions  given  in  the  different 
receipts. 

Have  fat,  lard,  or  oil  in  a  pan,  enough  to  immerse 
the  object  or  objects  intended  to  be  fried. 

When  the  fat  is  hot  enough  (see  below),  place  the 
object  in  a  kind  of  wire  basket  made  for  that  purpose, 
which  drop  in  the  fat  and  take  off  when  the  object  is 
fried.  It  is  handy,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  breaking 
Uie  object  in  taking  it  off. 

There  are  objects  that  require  to  be  stirred  or  turned 
aver  while  frying. 

Every  time  you  fry  any  thing,  take  the  fat  from  the 
5re,  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  for  about  five  minutes, 


12  COOKING. 

then  turn  it  gently  into  a  stone  jar  or  pot  through  a 
strainer ;  let  cool  and  put  away.  In  turning  the  fat, 
lard,  or  oil  into  the  jar,  pour  so  that  the  dregs  will  be 
kept  in  the  pan. 

To  ascertain  with  accuracy  when  the  fat,  lard,  or  oil  is 
hot  enough  to  lay  the  things  in  the  pan,  dip  a  fork  in  cold 
water,  the  prongs  only,  so  as  to  retain  but  one  or  two 
drops  of  water,  which  drops  you  let  fall  in  the  fat,  and  if 
it  crackles,  it  is  hot  enough. 

Another  way  is,  when  jets  of  smoke  come  out  of 
the  fat. 

There  are  objects  that  require  more  heat  than  others, 
some  that  are  more  sightly  when  brown,  and  others  when 
of  a  pale-yellow  hue. 

If  the  object  is  desired  brown,  leave  the  pan  on  a 
brisk  fire  while  it  is  frying ;  if  otherwise,  remove  it  to  a 
slow  or  less  brisk  fire. 

Fat  is  not  like  water,  which,  no  matter  how  fast  you 
boil  it,  you  cannot  augment  the  degree  of  heat,  while 
you  can  that  of  fat.  If  water,  by  boiling  it  fast,  could  be 
heated  as  much  as  fat,  it  would  be  used  to  fry  in  its  stead, 
being  cheaper. 

Mixing. — In  mixing,  pay  due  attention  to  the  quanti- 
ties we  give  in  the  receipts ;  but  as  everybody  has  not 
the  same  taste,  it  is  very  easy  to  augment  or  diminish  the 
quantity  of  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  butter,  etc.,  so  as  to  suit 
one's  own  taste. 

When  the  quantity  is  left  to  the  judgment  or  taste  of 
the  cook,  that  is,  when  the  expression  about  so  much  is 
made  use  of,  it  is  not  necessary  then  to  have  the  exact 
quantity;  a  little  more  or  a  little  less  cannot  spoil  or 
partly  destroy  the  dish. 

Roasting. — When  an  object  is  placed  on  the  spit  ac- 


COOKING.  13 

cording  to  directions,  remember  that  it  cannct  be  basted 
too  often. 

The  time  necessary  for  roasting  a  piece  of  meat  or  any 
thing  else,  depends  as  much  upon  the  fire  as  upon  the 
nature  of  the  meat.  Meat  especially  requires  to  be  placed 
very  near  the  fire  at  first,  and  then  put  back  by  degrees. 

There  is  nearly  as  much  difference  between  roasted 
and  baked  meat  as  there  is  between  broiled  and  fried 
meat. 

It  is  generally  admitted  here,  that  English  roast-beef 
is  so  superior  to  American  roast-beef  that  it  cannot  be 
compared  to  it.  It  is  not  in  the  quality  of  the  meat  that 
the  difference  lies,  but  in  the  process  of  cooking. 

Meat  cannot  be  roasted  in  an  oven,  be  it  in  an  ordi- 
nary or  in  a  patented  one. 

That  peculiar  flavor  in  roasted  meat  is  produced  by 
the  air  coming  constantly  in  contact  with  the  heated  meat 
while  revolving  on  the  spit. 

Cold  roasted  meat,  when  desired  to  be  served  warm, 
is  enveloped  in  buttered  paper  and  placed  on  the  spit  just 
long  enough  to  warm  it. 

Sauteing. — There  is  no  word,  that  we  know,  in  the 
English  language,  corresponding  to  the  French  word  saute. 
It  differs  from  frying  in  this :  that  to  fry  any  object  requires 
fat  enough  to  immerse  that  object ;  while  to  sautt  it,  re- 
quires just  enough  to  prevent  it  from  scorching. 

Vegetables,  omelets,  etc.,  are  sauted,  and  not  fried. 

Meat  or  fish  cooked  in  a  frying-pan  with  a  little  butter 
or  fat,  is  sauted,  and  not  fried  ;  but  the  term  fried  is  most 
generally  used,  the  other  being  only  known  to  prac- 
titioners. 

To  saute  requires  a  brisk  fire ;  the  quicker  an  object 
is  cooked  by  sauteing  the  better. 


14:  COOKING. 

Seasoning. — This  is  the  most  difficult  part  in  the  sci- 
ence of  cooking.  To  season  is  not  difficult,  but  to  season 
properly  is  quite  another  thing. 

It  is  not  only  necessary  to  know  well  how  to  stew  or 
roast  a  peace  of  meat  or  any  thing  else,  but  to  know  ho^ 
to  season  it,  to  be  able  to  judge  what  quantity  and  what 
kind  of  spices  can  be  used  to  season  such  or  such  a  dish, 
to  what  extent  all  the  spices  used  agree  together,  and 
what  taste  and  flavor  they  will  give  to  the  object  with 
which  they  are  cooked ;  for,  if  not  properly  used,  they 
may  just  as  likely  destroy  the  taste  and  flavor  of  the  object 
as  improve  it. 

Some  dishes  require  high  and  much  seasoning,  others 
just  the  contrary.  With  a  good  fire  and  a  good  spit,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  be  a  thorough  cook  to  roast  a  piece  well, 
but  the  cook  is  indispensable  to  mix  the  gravy  or  sauce 
with  the  proper  seasonings. 

Simmering. — Simmering  differs  from  boiling  only  in  the 
amount  of  heat  allowed  under  the  boiler,  kettle,  or  pan. 
To  simmer,  is  to  boil  as  gently  and  slowly  as  possible. 

Stewing. — To  stew  properly  it  is  necessary  to  have  a 
moderate  fire  and  as  even  as  possible.  A  brisk  fire  would 
cause  much  steam  to  evaporate,  which  steam  is  the  flavor 
of  the  object  stewed. 

Tasting. — This  is  the  most  difficult,  and  at  the  same 
time  the  most  delicate,  part  of  seasoning ;  it  is  by  tasting 
that  we  ascertain  if  we  have  seasoned  properly. 

In  this  only  two  of  the  senses  are  engaged,  and  one 
of  those  much  more  than  the  other. 

A  person  may  have  good  feeling,  hearing,  and  sight, 
and  for  ah1  that  would  not  be  fit  for  preparing  the  simplest 
dish ;  the  senses  of  smelling  and  tasting  are  the  ones  most 
required,  and  without  which  no  one  can  cook  properly. 


COOKING. 


15 


For  these  reasons  we  will  take  the  liberty  to  recommend 
to  housekeepers,  when  they  have  new  cooks,  to  instruct 
them  on  their  taste,  and  always  let  them  know  when  they 
have  seasoned  too  much  or  too  little.  To  the  cooks  we 
will  say,  do  not  season  according  to  your  own  taste,  if  the 
persons  for  whom  you  cook  do  not  like  it. 

If  the  housekeeper  would  give  his  or  her  candid  and 
frank  opinion  of  the  dishes  to  the  cook,  and  if  the  latter 
be  not  stubborn,  the  best  results  might  be  obtained  and 
both  would  be  benefited  by  it.  That  ought  to  be  done 
every  day  while  making  the  bill  of  fare. 

To  taste  a  sauce,  as  well  as  to  know  if  a  thing  is  good 
to  eat,  we  cannot  trust  either  our  eyes,  fingers,  or  ears ;  we 
then  have  recourse,  first  to  our  smelling,  and  then  to  our 
tasting :  so  do  most  animals. 

We  always  commence  by  smelling,  and  when  that 
sense  is  satisfied  as  far  as  it  is  concerned,  we  then  apply 
our  tasting  qualities ;  and  if  that  last  one  is,  in  its  turn, 
satisfied  also,  we  proceed,  that  is,  we  masticate,  if  mastica- 
tion is  necessary,  and  then  swallow. 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC. 

ANISE. 
ANISE  comes  from  Egypt,  and  is  used  as  a  spice. 

APRICOT. 

This  is  a  native  of  Armenia.  It  is  served  like  plums 
and  peaches  ;  in  salad,  compote,  etc. 

BACON. 

Never  use  smoked  bacon  or  ham,  except  when  espe- 
cially directed.  The  smoky  taste  would  spoil  the  dish. 

BAIN-MARIE. 

A  bain-marie  is  a  large  vessel  of  hot  or  boiling  water, 
in  which  saucepans,  kettles,  moulds,  etc.,  are  placed  to 
prepare  or  warm  food.  It  is  also  used  to  keep  any  kind 
of  food  warm,  when  something  is  ready  to  serve,  and  the 
time  has  not  come ;  the  utensil  containing  it  is  placed  in  hot 
water,  and  it  not  only  keeps  it  warm,  but  there  is  almost  no 
evaporation  while  in  it.  It  does  not  boil  away  either. 

There  are  things  that  are  much  more  delicate  when 
prepared  or  warmed  in  hot  water. 

One  utensil  made  for  that  purpose,  and  of  brass,  with 
compartments,  is  more  handy,  but  a  large  saucepan  may  be 
used  in  its  stead. 

When  any  thing  is  in  the  bain-mj;ie,  the  water  should 


DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  IT 

not  be  allowed  to  boil  fast  enough  either  to  upset  the  pana 
or  get  into  them. 

BAKE-PANS. 

A  bake-pan  for  baking  meat,  fish,  or  any  other  object 
that  requires  liquor  of  any  kind,  must  have  borders  in 
order  to  hold  that  liquor ;  but  a  bake-pan  for  cakes  or  any 
other  object  that  does  not  require  any  liquor,  or  that  does 
not  turn  liquid  in  baking,  is  better  without  borders — that 
is,  a  simple  piece  of  sheet  iron  of  a  size  to  go  easily  in 
the  oven. 

BAY-LEAF. 

This  is  known  also  under  its  French  name  laurier. 

It  is  used  as  a  spice  ;  it  is  exceedingly  cheap  and  is 
excellent  to  flavor  sauces,  gravies,  etc. 

It  comes  especially  from  Italy,  where  it  is  used  to  pack 
figs,  oil,  and  different  fruits. 

BEETS. 

The  red  beet  is  much  used  to  decorate  different 
dishes. 

It  is  boiled,  then  pickled,  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  either 
with  a  knife  or  with  paste-cutters,  and  tastefully  placed  on 
or  around  the  object  it  is  used  to  decorate. 

It  is  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  pickled,  and  cut  in 
slices. 

To  boil. — Set  it  on  a  good  fire  in  a  pan,  covered  with 
cold  water,  and  boil  gently  till  done. 

The  beet  must  not  be  touched  at  all  with  any  thing 
rough,  for  if  the  skin  or  root  is  cut  or  broken,  all  the  color 
goes  away  in  boiling,  it  is  not  fit  to  decorate,  and  loses 
much  of  its  quality. 

When  you  buy  beets,  see  that  they  are  not  bruised,  and 
that  the  root  is  not  broken. 


18  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

BRAISING. 

Braising,  in  cookery,  means  to  cook  any  tiling  with 
fire  under  and  upon  the  pan,  kettle,  or  other  utensil 

A  good  oven  is  by  far  more  easy,  and  answers  perfect- 
ly the  purpose.  An  oven  not  only  warms  the  under  and 
upper  parts  of  the  utensil,  but  all  around  it  also. 

BUNCH  OF  SEASONINGS. 

It  is  composed  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  &na  cloves, 
and  sometimes  a  clove  of  garlic  is  added.  Place  the 
sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  left  hand,  rather  spread,  lay  the 
others  on  and  in  the  middle  of  the  parsley,  and  envelop 
them  in  it  as  well  as  possible,  then  tie  the  whole  with 
twine. 

As  all  these  seasonings  are  never  served  except  when 
chopped,  they  are  more  easily  taken  out  than  if  they  were 
not  tied  together. 

BUTTERED  PAPER. 

Dip  in  lukewarm  butter  a  piece  of  white  paper  of  the 
size  you  want,  and  envelop  the  piece  to  broil  or  roast 
with  it  Tie  the  paper  around  with  twine  or  coarse 
thread. 

OILED  PAPER. 

The  only  difference  between  oiled  and  buttered  paper 
is,  that  it  is  dipped  in  sweet  or  olive  oil  instead  of  butter. 

CATSUP. 

Beware  of  what  is  sold  under  the  name  of  catsups  and 
pickles ;  many  cases  of  dyspepsia,  debility,  and  consump- 
tion come  from  using  such  stuff. 

CAVIARE. 
Tt  is  made  with  the  roes,  hard  and  soft,  of  the  sterlet 


DIEECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  19 

It  is  imported  from  Russia,  and  is  served  asahors-d'auvre, 
with  slices  of  lemon  and  toast. 

CERVELAS,  SAUCISSONS,  ETC. 

Cervelas,  saucissons,  as  well  as  smoked  sausages,  are 
pork-butchers'  preparations,  cut  slantwise  in  very  thin 
slices,  and  served  as  hors-d'oeuvre,  with  parsley  in  the 
middle  of  the  dish. 

CHEESE. 

Cheese  is  the  first  plate  of  dessert  to  be  partaken  of. 
"  A  dinner  without  cheese  is  like  a  handsome  lady  with 
but  one  eye." — Brillat-Savarin. 

"  Cheese  takes  away  all  the  taste  that  might  be  left 
from  preceding  dishes,  and  by  that  means  prepares  the 
palate  for  the  appreciation  of  the  good  things,  the  delicate 
flavors  of  the  dessert  and  wines." 

COCHINEAL. 

Cochineal,  or  carmine.  Buy  the  cochineal  in  pow- 
der, prepared  for  cooking  purposes,  mix  some  (say  the 
size  of  half  a  split  pea)  with  a  few  drops  of  cold  water  and 
mix  that  again  with  what  you  wish  to  color.  The  quan- 
tity of  cochineal  is  according  to  the  quantity  of  mixture 
and  also  according  to  how  deep  the  color  is  desired. 

CHERVIL. 

This  comes  from  Italy,  and  is  used  in  salad  and  as  a 
spice. 

COLANDER. 

Besides  the  ordinary  colander,  it  is  necessary  to  have 
a  fine  one.  We  mean,  by  a  fine  colander,  one  with  holes 
half  the  size  of  the  ordinary  ones,  that  is,  just  between 


20  DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

the  colander  and  strainer.  A  colander  should  not  have 
holes  on  the  sides ;  it  is  handier  and  more  clean  with 
holes  at  the  bottom  only. 

CURRY. 

We  think  that  curry  is  very  good  and  necessary  on 
the  borders  of  the  Ganges  Biver,  and  for  that  very  reason 
we  think  also  that  it  ought  to  be  eschewed  on  the  borders 
of  the  Hudson,  Delaware,  Ohio,  and  thereabouts. 

We  cannot  describe  curry  better  than  by  giving  here 
the  answer  (verbatim  et  literatim)  of  a  gentleman  who 
has  lived  a  few  years  in  Java,  to  a  question  on  the  proper- 
ties and  qualities  of  curry.  He  said  that  he  thought  it 
good  and  even  necessary  to  use  some  there  on  account  of 
the  climate,  but  every  time  he  bad  eaten  it  he  thought  he 
was  swallowing  boiling  alcohol  or  live  coals. 

DINING-ROOM. 

It  must  be  well  ventilated  and  lighted.  The  best  de- 
gree of  temperature  is  about  66  degrees  Fahr. 

DISH. 

A  dish  ought  to  be  charming  to  the  eye,  flattering  to 
the  smell,  and  delicious  to  the  taste. 

DRAINING. 

To  drain,  is  to  put  in  a  colander  any  thing  that  Las 
been  soaked,  washed,  or  boiled,  etc.,  in  water  or  any  other 
liquid,  in  order  to  dry  it,  or  at  least  to  let  drop  from  it 
the  water  or  other  liquid  that  may  be  in  it. 

Salads  of  greens,  as  a  general  thing,  are  drained  after 
bung  washed,  before  putting  them  in  the  salad-dish;  they 
must  be  drained  as  dry  as  posible,  but  without  pressing 
on  them,  as  it  would  wilt  the  leaves,  and  give  the  salad  an 
unsightly  appearance. 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  21 

DUSTING. 

A  pan,  after  being  buttered  or  greased,  is  dusted  with 
flour,  sugar,  or  even  bread-crumbs,  to  prevent  the  mixture 
that  is  put  in  it  from  sticking.  Sugar,  etc.,  may  also  be 
sprinkled  over  dishes  with  a  dredger. 

DRINKING. 

When  weary,  or  cold,  or  warm,  or  exhausted,  we 
drink  in  preference  to  eating,  because  we  feel  the  effect 
instantaneously ;  while  after  eating  even  the  most  sub- 
stantial food,  we  do  not  feel  the  effect  for  some  time. 

When  exhausted  and  when  immediate  relief  is  neces- 
sary, the  best  drinks  are  broth,  chocolate,  milk,  or  water 
sweetened  with  sugar.  It  is  more  than  a  mistake  to 
drink  wines  or  liquors  at  such  a  time ;  it  is  really  commit- 
ting slow  suicide. 

When  only  thirsty,  without  exhaustion,  we  ought  to 
drink  cold  water  with  a  teaspoon.  When  thirsty  and 
heated,  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  dip  the  hands  in  cold 
water  deep  enough  just  to  cover  the  wrists ;  then  dip  a 
towel  in  the  water,  lay  it  on  the  forehead,  and  then  drink 
cold  water  with  a  teaspoon. 

A  few  drops  of  vinegar  or  lemon-juice  may  be  added 
to  the  water.  If  exceedingly  hot,  keep  your  hands  in 
cold  water  and  the  towel  on  your  forehead  at  least  one 
minute  before  drinking. 

HOT  WEATHER. 

A  remark  or  two  on  eating  and  drinking  in  hot  weather 
are  always  in  season.  Green  vegetables,  properly  cooked, 
are  certainly  healthful  in  warm  weather ;  but  it  is  a  mis- 
take to  think  that  meat  should  be  excluded  from  sum- 
mer diet  The  hotter  the  weather,  the  more  the  system 
wastes,  and  therefore  the  more  we  must  supply. 


22  DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

In  order  to  keep  the  body  in  a  healthful  condition, 
meat  ought  to  be  eaten  at  least  once  a  day  in  summer- 
time. It  would  be  well  to  vary  this  programme  by  taking 
one  meal  of  fish  on  every  other  day. 

Fat  should  be  disused  as  much  as  possible.  A  very 
little  good  butter  with  your  fresh  radishes  at  breakfast  is 
as  much  fat  as  is  necessary. 

COLD   WEATHER. 

Fat  meat  is  good  in  winter  and  is  relished ;  so  are 
dry  vegetables  and  saccharine  substances. 

FOOD. 

Nature  has  provided  man  with  a  mind,  in  order  that 
he  should  study  what  kind  of  food  suits  his  constitution  ; 
he  who  does  not  do  it,  is  not  above  the  lower  animals. 

"  Good  things  have  been  made  by  the  Creator  for  good 
people,  flowers  have  certainly  not  been  made  for  brutes, 
either  quadruped  or  biped." — Jefferson. 

"  It  is  from  good  things  that,  in  a  human  point  of  view, 
we  derive  the  strength  necessary  to  our  limbs,  let  us 
partake  of  the  same  and  be  thankful." — Rev.  —  Chadband. 

Have  your  food  selected  and  prepared  according  to 
constitution,  occupation,  climate,  age,  and  sex. 

Waste  in  females  is  greater  than  hi  males. 

Animals,  generally,  are  very  careful  in  selecting  their 
food. 

A  temporary  bloatedness  may  be  obtained,  especially 
with  the  young,  by  eating  much  farinaceous  food,  such  as 
pancakes,  etc.,  but  it  does  not  last,  and  is  sure  to  bring 
on  disease  or  sickness,  or  both. 

Man  is  omnivorous,  and  must  be  fed  accordingly. 

Extreme  leanness  comes  from  want  of  proper  food, 
cither  in  youth  or  old  age. 


DIBECTION8,    EXPLANATIONS,   ETC.  23 

It  is  not  the  amount  that  is  eaten  which  nourishes,  but 
the  amount  that  is  digested ;  an  excess  of  food  is  as  bad 
as  a  lack  of  it. 

Good  and  well-baked  bread  is  nutritious  and  healthful, 
while  unbaked  bread  is  heavy  and  difficult  of  digestion. 

Take  at  least  half  an  hour's  rest  after  a  hearty  meal,  for 
mind  and  stomach  cannot  work  at  the  same  time. 

Never  eat  when  angry,  or  tired,  or  when  heated ;  but 
be  as  cool  and  as  gay  as  possible,  for  food  being  exposed 
to  a  heat  of  about  100  degrees  Fahr,  in  the  stomach,  would 
ferment  instead  of  digesting. 

Take  a  hearty  but  by  no  means  heavy  dinner. 

Eat  slowly,  at  regular  hours,  and  masticate  well,  but  do 
not  bolt  your  food,  or  eat  any  thing  that  does  not  taste  good. 

Drink  slowly,  moderately,  and  always  taste  before 
swallowing. 

Yary  your  food  as  much  as  possible. 

Always  have  at  least  one  dish  of  vegetables  for  dinner, 
besides  meat,  and  also  ripe  fruit. 

See  that  every  thing  you  eat  or  drink  is  of  a  good 
quality,  wholesome  and  properly  prepared. 

ECONOMY. 

There  is  not  a  word  so  much  misused  in  cooking  as  the 
word  economy. 

Prejudice  comes  for  a  large  share  in  the  use  of  it 

How  many  things  are  thrown  away,  or  wasted  by  mere 
prejudice  or  ignorance  I 

It  is  often  from  economy  that  a  woman  washes  meat, 
because  some  part  of  it  does  not  look  clean.  Instead  of 
washing  it,  do  not  buy  it ;  or,  if  bought,  cut  off  a  thin* 
slice  and  throw  it  away :  it  is  more  economical  than  wash- 
ing the  whole  piece,  wliich  you  partly  destroy  by  the 
process. 


24:  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

It  is  with  a  view  to  economy,  that  an  old,  bad  custom 
•  prevails  of  boiling  coffee.     What  an  economy  of  sending 
the  best  part  of  the  coffee  (the  aroma)  to  the  attic,  and 
the  rest  to  the  dining-room.     A  bad  drink  can  be  made 
cheaper  with  many  things  than  with  coffee. 
Tea  is  also  boiled  with  an  eye  to  economy. 

EGG-BEATER. 

"We  have  tried  five  different  kinds  in  Boston,  before  a 
large  audience  and  on  the  demand  of  an  inventor  of  one, 
but  none  could  beat  eggs  as  well  as  a  common  hand-beater. 
The  whites  of  the  eggs  could  not  be  raised  with  any  of 
the  others  much  more  than  half  as  much  as  with  the  com- 
mon one ;  and  besides,  could  not  be  beaten  stiff. 

Many  persons  do  not  succeed  in  making  cakes  of 
different  preparations  in  which  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to 
a  stiff  froth  are  used,  because  the  eggs  are  not  properly 
beaten. 

Any  tinsmith  can  make  an  egg-beater.  It  is  generally 
made  with  tin-wire,  but  may  be  made  with  brass-wire. 

With  the  cut  below,  as  a  model,  it  can  be  easily  made. 


The  handle  a  is  of  tin,  into  which  the  tin  wires  b  are 
fastened  and  soldered. 

ERRORS  IN  COOKING. 

Ignorance  produces  abuse  or  error,  or  both.  Blissful 
ignorance  may  be  a  fine  thing  in  some  cases,  but  either  in 
preparing  or  partaking  of  food,  it  is  certainly  more  than  an 
abuse,  it  is  a  dangerous  error. 


EXPLANATIONS,   ETC.  25 

It  is  by  ignorance  or  disease  that  man  abuses  wine  or 
any  other  liquor.  « 

It  is  by  ignorance  or  prejudice  that  many  eschew  the 
best  and  most  healthful  of  condiments,  such  as  garlics,  on- 
ions, etc.  They  dislike  them  on  account  of  their  pungent 
taste  when  raw,  not  knowing  that  when  cooked  it  is  all 
evaporated.  Their  pungent  taste  comes  from  the  volatile  oil 
they  contain,  and  which  evaporates  in  cooking ;  it  cannot 
be  retained,  but  their  sugar  is  retained,  and  gives  such  a 
good  flavor  to  gravies  and  sauces. 

FENNEL. 

This  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  the  Canary  Islands ;  it  has 
a  very  strong  taste,  and  is  used  as  a  spice,  especially  in  blood 
pudding.  The  Romans  used  a  great  deal  of  it. 

FIG. 

The  fig-tree  comes  from  Mesopotamia.  Figs  are  gen- 
erally served  as  hors-d'oeuvre,  or  used  in  puddings,  etc. 

FINES  HERBES. 

Parsley  and  cives  chopped  fine,  and  used  for  omelets, 
or  with  cold  meat,  sauces,  etc.,  are  called  thus. 

FLOUR. 

In  cooking,  new  flour  is  not  as  good  as  old ;  it  does 
not  thicken  as  well  and  as  fast 

FOIES  GRAS. 

Foies,  oipdiesde  foies  gras  are  made  with  geese-livere, 
fresh  fat  pork,  truffles,  ham,  fines  herbcs,  and  spices. 
2 


26  DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

They  are  always  served  cold  as  a  releve  or  entree,  but 
most  generally  they  are  used  for  lunch  or  supper. 

FRUIT-CORER. 

There  are  many  sizes  in  the  set,  to  core  from  a  pine- 
apple to  a  cherry. 


GALANTINE. 

The  word  galantine  means  a  boned  bird,  or  a  boned 
ihoulder  of  veal. 

GLAZING. 

Glazing  is  generally  done  by  means  of  a  brush  or  with 
feathers.  A  beaten  egg,  or  syrup,  or  jelly,  or  egg  and  su- 
gar, etc.,  are  used  to  glaze  cakes,  etc.  It  is  done  by  dip- 
ping the  brush  into  the  egg  or  jelly,  and  by  spreading  it 
on  the  cake  or  other  object  before  baking  or  before  serving, 
as  directed  in  the  different  receipts.  It  is  also  done  by 
sifting  powdered  sugar  on  cakes  which  are  put  back  in  the 
oven  for  a  short  time — that  is,  the  time  necessary  to  melt 
the  sugar. 

INDIGESTION. 

A  cup  of  tea  and  camomile,  half  of  each,  with  a  few 
drops  of  orange-flower  water,  and  the  whole  well  sweet- 
ened and  taken  warm,  is  very  good  after  having  eaten 
something  difficult  to  digest. 

ITALIAN  PASTES. 

Macaroni,  vermicelli,  and  the  like  dry  pastes,  are  called 
Italian  pastes,  whatever  the  shape — round,  oval,  or  star-like. 

ISINGLASS. 

It  is  sometimes  used  instead  of  gelatine  to  make  jellies. 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  27 

JELLY-BAG. 

Make  a  conical  bag  of  good  white  flannel,  about 
twenty  inches  long,  fifteen  inches  broad  at  one  end  when 
spread  on  a  flat  surface,  or  about  thirty  inches  in  circum- 
ference, the  other  end  being  the  point.  Sew  to  it  four 
pieces  of  white  tape  at  the  large  end,  and  at  equal  dis- 
tances, so  that  two  sticks  may  be  run  into  them.  The 
sticks  are  placed  on  chairs  or  something  else,  in  order  to 
have  the  point  of  the  bag  about  one  foot  from  the  floor. 
It  is  then  ready  to  pass  the  jellies  through  it. 


KITCHEN  UTENSILS. 

Gastronomists  use,  in  preference  to  any  thing  else,  crock- 
ery or  earthen  pans ;  or,  for  want  of  these,  block-tin  pans. 

Copper  is,  in  the  end,  the  cheapest  of  all ;  but  American 
cooks  do  not  like  them  because  they  require  too  much  care 
and  must  be  examined  every  day ;  to  prevent  any  accident, 
it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  inside  properly  lined. 

Many  indispositions  are  caused  by  food  prepared  in 
copper  not  properly  lined ;  even  food  allowed  to  cool  in  a 
well-lined  pan  would  be  dangerous. 

Pans  lined  with  porcelain  are  excellent,  but  the  trouble 
with  them  is,  that  they  crack,  and  after  that  cannot  be 


28  DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC. 

cleaned ;  something  will  always  remain  between  the  lining 
and  the  iron,  and  spoil  every  thing  cooked  in  them. 

The  tin-lined  are  preferable,  on  account  of  being  easily 
cleaned  by  means  of  a  small  birch-broom,  washing-soda, 
and  boiling  water. 

LAIT  DE  POULE. 

Mix  well  in  a  tumbler  a  yolk  of  egg  and  a  teaspoon- 
fill  of  sugar ;  then  add  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower  water 
(eau  de  fleur  d'oranger) ;  pour  boiling  water  on  the  whole, 
little  by  little,  stirring  the  while,  and  drink  warm. 

The  quantity  of  water  is  according  to  taste. 

A  gill  of  water  to  a  yolk  of  egg  makes  it  thick  enough. 

It  makes  an  excellent  drink,  to  be  taken  just  before  re- 
tiring, for  persons  with  cough. 

LARD. 

Never  buy  lard  ready  made  if  you  can  help  it,  but 
take  hog's  fat,  the  part  enveloping  the  kidneys,  or  leaf 
lard,  and  chop  it  fine,  put  it  in  a  cast-iron  or  crock- 
ery kettle  with  a  bay-leaf  and  a  stalk  of  thyme  to  every 
two  pounds  of  fat ;  set  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  as  soon  as 
it  begins  to  melt,  take  the  melted  part  out  with  a  ladle,  and 
put  it  in  a  stone  jar  or  pot ;  be  careful  not  to  take  any 
pieces  of  fat  not  yet  melted.  Continue  that  process  till  it 
is  all  melted. 

The  dry  or  hard  part  that  remains  at  the  bottom  of 
the  kettle  when  done  is  no  good. 

Lard  made  thus  is  as  white  as  snow,  and  may  be  kept 
a  ong  time. 

When  there  is  water  in  lard,  it  flies  all  over  the  fire ;  in 
that  case,  boil  it  a  few  minutes  with  a  cover  on  the  pan* 
and  then  use. 


DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETO.  29 

FAT  FOR  FRYING. 

Take  beef  suet,  the  part  around  the  kidneys,  or  any 
kind  of  fat,  raw  or  cooked ;  remove  as  much  as  possible 
fibres,  nerves,  thin  skin,  or  bones ;  chop  it  fine,  put  it  in  a 
cast-iron  or  crockery  kettle ;  add  to  it  the  fat  you  may 
have  skimmed  from  the  top  of  broth,  sauces  or,  gravies* 
Set  the  pan  on  a  moderate  fire ;  boil  gently  for  about 
fifteen  minutes,  skim  it  well  during  the  process ;  take  from 
the  fire,  let  it  stand  about  five  minutes,  and  then  strain. 

Put  it  in  a  stone  jar  or  pot,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry  and 
cool  place.  Cover  the  jar  when  perfectly  cold. 

It  is  as  good  as  lard  and  more  handy ;  it  does  not  fly 
over  the  pan  like  lard, 

A  careful  cook  seldom  buys  fat ;  generally  there  is 
enough  coming  from  skimming  of  broth,  sauces,  and  gravies, 
for  every  purpose. 

TO  CLARIFY  FAT. 

Set  the  fat  on  a  moderate  fire  in  a  pan,  and  as  soon  as  it 
commences  to  boil,  place  a  slice  of  bread  dried  in  the 
oven  in  it,  boil  gently  for  about  half  an  hour;  take  from 
the  fire,  let  it  settle  for  a  few  minutes ;  remove  the  bread, 
turn  gently  into  a  jar  or  pot,  leaving  the  dregs  in  the  pan. 

Chicken,  Turkey,  and  Goose  Fat. — The  fat  of  the  above 
birds  is  never  used  to  fry,  but  to  saute  instead  of  butter. 
To  make  omelets  it  is  excellent ;  an  omelet  is  whiter  and 
more  sightly  made  with  chicken-fat  than  when  made  with 
butter.  It  is  clarified  as  directed  above. 

GAME-FAT. 

Game-fat  can  be  used  instead  of  other  fat  and  also 
instead  of  butter,  to  saute,  or  what  is  generally  called 
partly  fry,  game ;  it  may  also  be  used,  instead  of  butter 
to  bake  game 


30  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

It  must  be  clarified  longer  than  other  fat,  but  in  the 
same  way. 

The  boiling  of  fat  with  water,  as  indicated  in  somo 
cook-books,  is  only  a  fancy  and  extra  work,  it  has  no  effect 
whatever  on  the  fat.  It  is  the  same  by  keeping  it  for  hours 
in  a  Iain-marie  ;  it  does  not  change  it  in  the  least. 

BATTER  FOR  FRYING. 

For  frying  Vegetables. — Put  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour  in  a  bowl  with  two  yolks  of  eggs,  and  cold  water  enough 
to  make  a  kind  of  thin  paste,  then  add  salt  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  sweet  oil ;  mix  well.  Beat  the  two  whites 
of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them  with  the  rest 
Put  the  batter  away  in  a  cold  place  for  at  least  two  hours, 
and  use. 

It  must  not  be  put  away  longer  than  for  half  a  day. 

Another. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular,  except 
that  you  use  milk  instead  of  water. 

For  frying  Fish. — Make  it  exactly  as  the  above,  except 
that  you  do  not  use  any  oil. 

For  frying  Fritters. — Mix  well  together  in  a  bowl  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour  with  two  yolks  of  eggs  and  cold 
water  enough  to  make  a  thin  paste ;  add  a  pinch  of  sugar, 
rum  or  brandy,  or  any  other  liquor,  according  to  taste, 
from  one  to  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls,  mix  well  again, 
and  put  away  for  at  least  two  or  three  hours,  but  not 
longer  than  twelve  hours. 

Eggs  and  Crumbs  for  frying. — The  eggs  are  beaten  as 
for  omelets,  with  a  little  salt.  The  objects  to  be  fried  are 
dipped  in  the  eggs  first,  then  rolled  in  bread-crumbs 
and  fried. 

Another. — When  rolled  in  bread-crumbs  as  above; 
dip  again  in  the  eggs,  roll  again  in  bread-crumbs  and  frv. 


DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC.  31 

Another. — Dip  the  object  in  melted  butter,  then  in 
*ggs,  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs ;  fry. 

LARDING. 

All  pork-butchers  sell  salt  pork  for  larding.  Cut  it  in 
slices  and  then  by  cutting  the  slices  across  it  makes  square 
strips  or  fillets. 

The  strips  must  be  of  a  proper  size  to  be  easily  inserted 
into  the  larding-needle,  and  are  about  two  inches  and  a 
half  long. 

When  the  needle  is  run  half  way  through  the  meat, 
insert  the  salt  pork  into  it,  pull  the  needle  off  and  leave 
the  salt  pork  inside  of  the  meat,  both  ends  of  it  sticking 
out. 

If  it  were  running  through,  that  is,  if  the  salt  pork 
were  pulled  off  with  the  needle,  most  likely  the  strips  are 
too  small ;  then  pull  slowly,  and  when  the  salt  pork  is  far 
enough  into  the  meat,  press  on  it  with  the  finger  and  pull 
the  needle,  it  will  then  stay  in  its  proper  place.  It  is 
better  to  cut  a,  few  strips  first  and  try  if  they  are  of  a 
proper  size. 

If,  in  pulling  off  the  needle,  the  salt  pork  does  not 
enter  the  meat,  the  strips  are  too  large. 

If  the  strips  are  of  a  proper  size  and  break  while  pull- 
ing the  needle  oT,  then  the  pork  is  not  good. 

FricandeaUj  sweetbreads,  birds,  etc.,  are  larded  in  the 
same  way. 

For  beef  a  la  mode,  it  is  described  in  the  receipt. 

LARDING-NEEDLE. 

The  best  are  made  of  brass.  Those  that  are  sold  tor 
at  eel  are  generally  of  iron,  and  break  easily. 

Those  for  beef  a  la  mode  are  of  steel,  and  must  be  flat 
near  the  point,  in  order  to  cut  the  meat. 


32 

LEAYEN". 

Knead  four  ounces  of  flour  with  baker's  yeast,  enough 
to  make  a  rather  thick  dough ;  give  it  the  shape  of  a 
rather  flat  apple ;  with  a  sharp  knife  make  two  cuts  on  the 
top  and  across,  and  through  about  one-third  of  the  paste ; 
put  the  paste  in  a  pan  of  lukewarm  water.  In  a  few 
minutes  it  will  float ;  take  it  off  and  use  then  after  it  has 
floated  about  two  minutes. 

MEAT. 

The  time  it  takes  to  cook  meat  depends  as  much  on 
the  quality  of  the  meat  as  on  the  fire.  Some  persons  like 
meat  more  done  than  others ;  in  many  cases  you  must  con- 
sult your  own  taste  or  that  of  your  guests. 

Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  and  game,  may  be  eaten  rather 
underdone,  according  to  taste ;  domestic  fowls  must  be 
properly  cooked ;  but  pork  and  veal  must  always  be  over- 
done, or  else  it  is  very  unwholesome,  if  not  dangerous. 

The  following  table  may  be  used  as  a  guide : 

Bear  and  Buffalo, a  five-pound  piece,...  5  toThrs. 

Wild  Boar  and  Woodchuck, Do.         do.        ..  3to4hre. 

Beef, Do.         do.       ..  1  hr.  30  m. 

Do a  ten  pound  piece,...  2hrs.  30m. 

Capon, a  large  one, 1  hour. 

Chicken, a  middling-sized  one,  45min. 

Duck, a  large  one, 45  min. 

Do a  small  one, 30  min. 

Goose, a  large  one, 2  hours. 

Do a  small  one, 1  hr.  30  m. 

Grouse,  Heathcock,  Snipe,  and  W'dcock,  a  fat  one, 30  min. 

Do  do.  do.  do.... a  lean  one, 20min. 

Guinea  Fowl, a  middling-sized  one,   1  hour. 

Hare, an  old  one, 1  hr.  30m. 

Do a  young  one, about  1  hr. 

Lamb  and  Kid, ...a  large  quarter, 1  hour. 

Do.          do .asmall  one, 45 min. 

Mutton, a  four-pound  piece,...  1  hour. 

Do asix       "          "      ..  Ihr.SOm. 

Partridge,  Pheasant,  and  Prairie-Hen,. . . .a  middling- sized  one,  30  to  45  m. 
Pigeem, one, 30min. 


33 

Pork, a  two-pound  piece, ...  1  hr.  15  m. 

Do a  four    "         "       ..  2houre. 

Quail, one, 20min. 

Sucking-Pig, a  large  one, 2  hrs.  30m. 

Do.         do asmallone, 2  hours. 

Rabbit, a  middling-sized  one,  30  to  46  min. 

Robin,  Blackbird,  Fig-pecker,  High- 
holder,  Lapwing,  Meadow  Lark, 
Plover,  Reed-bird,  Thrush,  Yellow- 
bird,  and  other  small  birds, 15  to  20  min. 

Turkey, a  large  one, 1  hr.  30  m. 

Do a  small  one, about  1  hour. 

Veal, a  two-pound  piece, ..  1  hr.  15m. 

Venison, a  four     "       "       ..  about  1  hour. 

The  following  table  may  be  used  as  a  guide  to  know 
how  long  meat  may  be  kept,  in  a  cool,  dry,  and  dark 
place  ;  and  protected  from  flies  or  other  insects  : 

In  Summer.  In  Winter. 

Bear  and  Buffalo, 8  to4days.  10  to  15  day* 

Wild  Boar  and  Woodchuck, 8to4  "  8tolO  " 

BeefandPork, 2to4  "  6  to  10  M 

Capon 2to3  "  4  to   8  " 

Chicken,  old  one, 8to4  "  4  to  10  " 

Do.         young  one, 1U>2  "  2  to   6  " 

Deer,  Partridge,  Pheasant,  Prairie-Hen,  Quail, 

Guinea-Fowl,  and  Turkey, 2to3  "  6tolO  " 

Duck  and  Goose, 8to4  **  4  to  8  " 

Hare  and  Rabbit, 2  to  3  "  4  to   8  " 

Grouse,  Heathcock,  Snipe,  and  Woodcock,.. 3  to  4  "  8  to  15  " 

Lamb,  Kid,  Sucking  Pig,  and  Veal, 2to3  "  3to  6  " 

Mutton, 2to3  "  6  to  10  •* 

Pigeons,  Blackbirds,  Fig-peckers,  High- 
holders,  Lapwings,  Meadow  Larks, 
Plovers,  Reed-birds,  Robins,  Thrushes, 

Yellow-birds,  and  other  small  birds, ...  .2  to  3  "  6  to  10  " 

The  time  must  be  reduced  one-half  in  summer,  in 
stormy  or  damp  weather,  and  one-third  in  winter,  in 
thawing  or  rainy  weather. 

Fish. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed,  place  it 
*n  a  crockery  stewpan,  cover  it  with  cold  water,  add  a  lit- 
tle salt,  two  or  three  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  one  or  two  bay- 
leaves.     It  will  keep  thus  for  some  time. 
2*    . 


34  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

MOULDS. 

Mould  for  Meat  Pies. — A  mould  for  meat  pies  may  be 
round  or  oval ;  it  must  be  in  two  pieces,  fastened  together 
by  a  kind  of  hinge.  When  the  pie  is  baked,  the  wire 
pin  holding  the  mould  is  pulled,  and  the  mould  removed. 


Mould  for  Pies,  Jellies,  etc. — This  mould  may  be 
used  for  any  thing  that  requires  a  mould ;  it  may  also  be 
round,  oval,  or  of  any  other  shape. 


OLIVES. 

Fresh  and  ripe  they  are  served  as  dessert  with  other 
fruit.  Preserved,  they  are  served  as  a  hors-d*ceuvre,  and 
used  to  flavor  and  decorate  different  dishes. 

Olives  as  well  as  sardines  are  healthful  and  considered 
wie  of  the  best  hors-d'oeuvre. 

OSMAZOME. 

Osmazome  is  found  in  beef,  rnuttou,  full-grown  domes- 
tic fowls,  venison,  and  game ;  in  the  latter,  when  the  bird 
or  animal  is  adult. 

In  meat  soup,  the  osmazome  is  the  soluble  part  of  the 
meat  that  dissolves  in  boiling,  and  makes  nutritious 
broth. 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  35 

in  broiled  or  roasted  pieces,  it  is  that  part  which 
males  a  kind  of  brown  crust  on  the  surface  of  the  meat, 
and  also  the  brownish  part  of  the  gravy. 

Chicken,  lamb,  sucking-pig,  veal,  etc.,  do  not  contain 
any  osmazome. 

PARSLEY,  CHERVIL,  THYME,  CELERY,  SAGE,  ETC.,— FOR 
WINTER  USE. 

Hang  in  the  shade,  under  a  shed,  or  in  a  garret,  and 
in  a  clean  and  dry  place,  some  small  bunches  of  parsley, 
chervil,  celery,  etc.,  the  roots  upward  ;  leave  them  thus 
till  perfectly  dry,  then  place  them  in  your  spice-box  for 
winter  use. 

The  best  time  for  drying  them  is  at  the  end  of  Octo- 
ber or  the  beginning  of  November ;  dig  them  up  in  fine 
and  dry  weather,  so  as  to  have  them  clean  without  wash- 
ing. 

Soak  in  cold  water  half  an  hour  before  using. 

WHITE  PEPPER. 

This  is  black  pepper  decorticated. 

Put  peppercorns  in  a  bowl,  cover  with  cold  water,  and 
leave  thus  till  the  skin  is  tender ;  then  drain.  Take  tho 
skin  off,  let  it  dry,  grind  it ;  place  with  your  other  spices, 
and  use  where  directed.  It  takes  many  days  for  the  skin 
to  become  tender. 

QUALITY  OF  MEAT,  FISH,  VEGETABLES,  FRUIT,  ETC. 

The  quality  of  meat  depends  entirely  on  the  quality 
of  food  with  which  the  animal  has  been  fed. 

For  fish,  the  taste  or  quality  is  according  to  the  kind 
of  water  in  which  they  have  lived;  fish  from  a  muddy 
pond  smell  of  mud,  while  fish  from  a  clear  brook  are  de- 
licious. 


86 

The  same  difference  exists  in  vegetables  and  fruit; 
their  quality  is  according  to  the  quality  or  nature  of  the 
ground  in  which  they  have  been  grown. 

PASTRY-BAG. 

A  bag  for  pastry  is  made  with  thick,  strong  linen  ;  of 
a  conical  shape,  about  one  foot  long,  eight  inches  broad 
at  one  end  when  spread  on  a  flat  surface,  and  which 
makes  about  sixteen  inches  in  circumference,  and  only  one 
inch  and  a  quarter  at  the  other  end,  and  in  which  latter 
end  a  tin  tube  is  placed,  so  that  the  smaller  end  of  the 
tin  tube  will  come  out  of  the  smaller  end  of  the  bag. 
Putting  then  some  mixture  into  the  bag  and  by  pressing 
from  the  upper  end  downward,  the  mixture  will  come  o»t 
of  the  tin  tube. 

RAW   MATERIALS. 

If  American  cookery  is  inferior  to  any  other  general- 
ly, it  is  not  on  account  of  a  want  of  the  first  two  requi- 
sites— raw  materials  and  money  to  buy  them ;  so  there  is 
no  excuse  for  it,  both  are  given  to  the  cooks. 

Here,  where  markets  rival  the  best  markets  of  Europe 
and  even  surpass  them  in  abundance,  it  is  really  a  pity  to 
Eve  as  many  do  live. 

SCALLOPED  KNIFE. 

This  knife  is  used  to  cut  beets,  carrots,  turnip-rooted 
celery,  potatoes,  radishes,  and  turnips ;  in  slices,  round,  ob- 
long, or  of  any  other  shape  ;  either  to  decorate  dishes,  or 
to  be  served  alone  or  with  something  else,  or  to  be 
fried. 


The  annexed  cuts  will  give  an  idea  of  what  can  be  done 


BISECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 


37 


with  it     It  is  understood  that  the  vegetables  are  peeled 
first 


SHALLOTS. 

Shallots  come  from  Syria.  Shallot  is  stronger  than 
garlic  and  onion ;  a  real  Tartar  sauce  cannot  be  made  with- 
out shallot.  The  small,  green  onion  is  a  good  substitute 
for  it. 

SKEWERS. 

The  cuts  below  are  skewers.  The  common  ones  are 
used  to  fasten  pieces  of  meat  together ;  to  roast  or  bake 
small  birds,  liver  in  brochette,  etc.,  etc. 

o 


Those  to  decorate  are  only  used  with  different  flowers 
OT  vegetables,  and  stuck  inside  of  different  pieces  of  meat 


38  DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC. 

as   a   decoratioD.     They  are  removed  just   before    carv- 
ing- 

The  use  of  them  is  explained  in  the  different  receipts. 
They  may  be  different  from  those  seen  in  the  cuts. 

SPICES. 

The  cooks  of  this  country  generally  have  a  queer  idea 
of  what  they  call  French  cookery  and  French  spices. 

Some  honestly  believe  that  to  make  a  French  dish  a 
great  deal  of  pepper  and  other  strong  seasonings  must  be 
put  in. 

Many  other  persons,  who  have  not  been  in  Europe, 
really  believe  also,  that  French  cookery  is  what  is  called 
highly-seasoned.  There  never  was  a  greater  mistake. 

If  French  cooks  use  several  kinds  of  spices,  and  may-be 
more  than  American  cooks,  they  are  not  the  same ;  or  if 
some  are  the  same,  such  as  pepper,  they  use  them  in  much 
smaller  proportions. 

They  generally  use  thyme,  parsley,  bay-leaf,  chervil, 
tarragon,  etc.,  which  are  aromatic ;  but  never  use  (in  this 
climate)  ginger,  curry,  cayenne  pepper,  pimento,  catsups, 
variegated  colored  pickles  made  with  pyroligneous  acids, 
etc.,  and  which  are  very  exciting  and  irritating. 

Some  of  our  readers  may  naturally  ask :  How  is  it  that 
French  cookery  is  believed  by  many  to  be  the  contrary  of 
what  it  really  is  1 

Because  every  eating-house,  of  no  matter  what  size, 
pretends  to  be  a  first-rate  one  or  a  fashionable  one — and 
to  be  first-rate  or  fashionable  must,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
have  French  cooks,  or  at  least  cook  French  dishes. 

You  enter  the  place,  ask  for  a  French  dish ;  or,  ask  if 
rou  can  have  such  a  dish,  a  la  Franpaise  ? 

You  are  politely  and  emphatically  answered  in  the  af- 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,    ETC.  39 

firmative ;  and  very  often  the  polite  waiter  says  that  a 
French  cook  presides  in  the  kitchen. 

Result !— the  cook,  be  he  from  the  Green  Isle  or  of 
African  descent,  receiving  the  order  to  prepare  a  French 
dish,  puts  a  handful  of  pepper  in  the  already  too  much  pep- 
pered, old-fashioned  prepared  dish,  and  sends  it  to  the  con- 
fident customer  as  a  genuine  French  dish. 

Said  customer  never  asks  a  second  time  for  a  French 
dish,  and  pronounces  French  cookery  to  be — abominable ! 

STIRRING. 

Never  use  any  spoon  but  a  wooden  one  to  stir  any  thing 
on  the  fire  or  in  a  warm  state. 

STRAINING. 

To  strain,  is  to  pass  a  sauce  or  any  thing  else  through  a 
sieve,  a  strainer,  or  a  piece  of  cloth,  in  order  to  have  it 
freed  from  particles  of  every  kind. 

Broth  is  strained  to  make  soup,  so  as  to  remove  the 
email  pieces  of  bones  that  may  be  in  it,  etc. 

SUGAR. 

Sugar  plays  a  very  important  part  in  cooking.  It  ia 
added  to  cereals,  vegetables,  and  fruit,  many  of  which  would 
almost  be  unpalatable  without  it,  and  which  are  rendered 
not  only  palatable  but  wholesome  by  its  action. 

It  is  the  sugar  of  the  carrot  and  that  of  the  onion,  or 
of  the  garlic,  that  gives  such  a  peculiar  and  delicious  flavor 
to  gravies  and  sauces,  to  beef  a  la  mode,  fricandeau,  etc. 

Pulverized. — When  pulverized  or  powdered  sugar  can 
be  had  pure,  it  saves  the  trouble  to  do  it ;  but  often  there 
are  foreign  matters  in  it  and  therefore  it  is  better  to  make 
it;  you  know  then  what  you  have. 


40  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

Break  loaf  sugar  into  small  lumps,  pound  it  and  sift  it. 
With  a  fine  sieve,  you  can  make  it  as  fine  as  you  please. 

It  was  not  used  in  Europe  until  about  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century. 

For  the  cooking  of  sugar,  see  PRESERVES. 

TARRAGON. 

The  Frenct  name  of  tarragon  is  estragon.  It  is  excel- 
lent in  vinegar  and  ia  many  fish  sauces.  It  is  aromatic, 
sudorific,  and  stomachic,  and  grows  very  well  in  this  coun- 
try. It  grows  at  least  twice  as  large  here  as  in  Europe. 

TIN  TUBES. 

These  tubes  are  put  in  the  pastry-bag,  at  the  smaller 
end  of  it,  to  make  meringues,  ladies'  fingers,  etc. ;  they 
are  of  tin,  and  can  be  made  by  any  tinsmith. 

They  have  the  shape  of  a  trapezoid  or  frustum.  Two 
are  enough  for  any  purpose. 

No.  1.  One  inch  and  a  half  long;  one  inch  and  three- 
eighths  in  diameter  at  one  end,  and  nine-sixteenths  of  an 
inch  at  the  other  end. 

No.  2.  One  inch  and  a  half  long ;  one  inch  and  a  half 
in  diameter  at  one  end,  and  six-eighths  of  an  inch  at  the 
other. 

TRUFFLES. 

Truffles  are  found  in  Europe  and  Africa,  where  they 
were  first  discovered. 

The  truffle  is  neither  an  animal  nor  a  vegetable,  although 
it  has  been  classed  among  the  fungi,  which  has  root,  and 
the  truffle  has  neither  root  nor  stem. 

The  truffle  is  used  for  stuffing  and  flavoring  only 
otherwise  it  is  not  of  much  value.  On  account  of  theii 


DIRECTIONS,    EXPLANATIONS,   ETC.  4:1 

scarcity,  and  the  difficulty  in  finding  them,  they  are  rather 
costly. 

"We  think  truffles  may  be  compared  to  lace — both  are 
dear,  and  neither  has  an  intrinsic  value. 

VANILLA 

Is  a  native  of  America,  extensively  used  for  seasoning 
creams,  pastry,  etc.,  to  which  it  gives  a  delicious  flavor. 

Although  a  native  of  America,  all  the  extracts  of  va- 
nilla, as  well  as  others,  were  formerly  imported ;  but  within 
a  few  years  Americans  have  found  out  that  they  are 
able  to  distil  also,  and  "Burnett's  Extract  of  Vanilla"  is 
better  known  to-day  all  over  the  country  than  any  other. 

VEGETABLE  SPOONS. 

Vegetable  spoons  are  used  to  cut  potatoes,  carrots,  and 
turnips;  there  are  different  shapes,  round,  oval,  carrot- 
shape,  plain,  and  scalloped.  We  give  here  only  two,  being 
sufficient  to  explain  their  use. 

The  first  (a)  is  of  an  oval  shape,  and  makes  the  cut  c; 
the  second  (b)  is  round,  and  makes  the  cut  d. 


When  the  vegetable  is  peeled,  place  the  spoon  on  it, 
the  convex  side  up ;  holding  the  vegetable  in  your  left  hand , 
press  on  the  spoon  with  your  left  thumb,  and  in  order  to 
cause  it  to  cut  the  vegetable  while  turning  it  with  the  right 
hand,  first  half  way  or  rather  when  the  half  of  it  is  inside  of 
the  vegetable,  stop,  turn  it  the  other  way,  causing  it  to  cut 
the  vegetable  also,  then  raise  it  up  without  turning  at  all 


4:2  DIRECTIONS,   EXPLANATIONS,   ETC. 

and  you  have  in  the  spoon  a  piece  of  vegetable  of  the 
shape  of  the  spoon,  and  as  seen  in  the  cuts. 

WATER. 

Rain-water  is  for  cooking  purposes,  as  for  other  pur- 
poses, the  best,  but  is  seldom  used,  especially  in  large 
cities,  where  it  is  difficult  to  procure  it.  Another  difficulty 
is,  when  procured  it  soon  gets  foul. 

The  next  best  is  river-water,  or  water  from  lakes. 

By  boiling,  water  evaporates  its  gases  and  alkali,  and 
is  inferior  afterward  for  cooking  purposes,  especially  for 
boiling  vegetables ;  therefore,  we  earnestly  recommend  to 
use  the  water  at  the  first  boiling. 

When  foul  water  has  to  be  used  for  want  of  other,  if 
no  filter,  charcoal,  sand,  or  paper  can  be  had  to  filter 
it,  it  will  improve  by  boiling  it  and  then  exposing  it  to 
the  air  for  some  tune. 

WINES. 

Native  wines,  when  pure,  are  just  as  good  as  any  other 
for  cooking  purposes. 

It  is  wrong  and  a  great  mistake  to  underrate  native 
wines ;  they  have  a  little  more  acerbity  than  foreign  wines, 
but  are  not  inferior.  It  cannot  be  otherwise,  being  grown 
in  a  virgin  soil,  or  nearly  so.  The  richer  the  soil  or  the 
younger  the  vineyard,  the  more  acid  the  wine. 

Cold  nights  during  the  ripening  of  the  fruit  make  the 
wine  more  acid,  not  ripening  so  perfectly. 

Wine  is  a  healthy  drink,  and  many  invalids  would 
recover  much  quicker  by  a  judicious  use  of  it. 

Different  wines  are  used  in  cooking,  and  we  give  the 
names  of  the  best  ones  in  the  different  receipts. 

A  little  vinegar  may  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  wine, 


43 

but  it  is  very  inferior,  and  in  many  dishes  it  cannot  be 
used  at  all. 

A  few  dollars  spent  during  the  year  in  wine  for  cooking 
purposes,  makes  much  better  and  more  wholesome  dishes. 

White  wine  contains  little  tannin  ;  it  retains  nitrogen- 
ous matters,  and  is  free  from  essential  oils;  hence  the 
superior  flavor  and  quality  of  brandy  made  with  white 
wines. 

It  is  more  aperient  and  less  nutritive  than  red  wine. 

Essential  oils  pass  in  red  wine  while  it  is  fermenting. 

Wine  and  sugar  with  certain  fruits  are  excellent,  and 
are  known  to  neutralize  the  crudity  of  the  fruit,  such  as 
straw-berries,  pears,  peaches,  currants,  etc. 

MOTTO. 

The  motto  of  the  New  York  Cooking  Academy  is — 

Since  we  must  eat  to  live,  let  us  prepare  our  food  in 

such  a  manner,  that  our  physical,  intellectual,  and  moral 

capacities  may  be  extended  as  far  as  is  designed  by  ovr 

CREATOR. 


DIVERS  RECEIPTS. 

ALMONDS. 

Two  kinds  arc  used  in  cooking,  the  sweet  and  the 
bitter. 

They  are  shelled  first,  then  by  pouring  boiling  water 
on  them  and  leaving  them  in  it  for  two  or  three  minutes, 
they  are  easily  skinned. 

They  are  sometimes  used  as  soon  as  skinned,  and  some- 
times dried  after  being  skinned  and  just  before  using. 

When  wanted  dried,  place  them  in  a  pan  in  a  slow 
oven  with  the  door  open,  and  turn  them  occasionally. 

LEMONADE  OR  ORANGEADE. 

Put  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  quart  of  water,  also 
the  rind  of  an  orange  or  one  of  lemon.  Half  an  hour 
after  strain  the  whole,  and  press  into  it  the  juice  of  the 
orange,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice.  If  found  too 
strong,  add  water  and  sugar.  It  is  a  very  good  drink  in 
summer,  or  for  evening  parties.  A  little  currant  jelly 
may  be  added  to  make  a  variety. 

LEMONADE  WITH  BARLEY. 

To  the  above  lemonade  or  orangeade  you  add,  instead 
cf  water  and  sugar,  some  barley-water  and  sugar;  it  is 
very  good  and  very  refreshing. 

Barley-water  is  made  by  soaking  in  lukewarm  water  a 


DIVERS  RECEIPTS.  45 

pint  of  barley,  drain  it  two  or  three  minutes  after ;  put  the 
barley  in  a  crockery  pan,  cover  it  with  cold  water  (about 
three  quarts),  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  boil  till  the  barley  is 
perfectly  cooked ;  skim  off  the  scum  during  the  cooking, 
drain,  let  cool,  and  use  the  water. 

BARLEY  SUGAR  FOR  CHILDREN. 

Soak  a  quart  of  barley  in  lukewarm  water  for  two  or 
three  minutes,  and  drain.  Put  the  barley  in  a  crockery 
stewpan,  with  four  or  five  quarts  of  water,  and  set  it  on  a 
good  fire,  boil  till  the  barley  is  overdone,  and  then  take 
from  the  fire,  mash  it  as  well  as  possible  and  strain,  throw- 
ing away  what  there  is  in  the  strainer,  and  if  the  remain- 
der does  not  make  a  kind  of  jelly  when  cool,  the  barley 
has  not  been  boiled  enough. 

Mix  that  jelly  with  sugar  and  fry  it;  it  is  better  than 
any  other  candy,  barley  being  refreshing,  and  the  princi- 
pal substance  of  it. 

BAVAROISE  WITH  CHOCOLATE. 

Put  in  a  tin  pan  a  pint  of  milk,  with  one  ounce  of 
chocolate,  and  two  of  sugar ;  set  it  over  the  fire,  but  do 
not  allow  it  to  boil ;  stir  w«ll  with  a  wooden  spoon  during 
the  process,  and  when  the  whole  is  well  mixed,  serve  warm 
in  cups. 

It  is  an  excellent  and  wholesome  drink  in  the  evening. 

The  same  with  Coffee  or  Tea. — Proceed  as  above  in 
every  particular,  except  that  you  put  in  the  pan  a  small 
cup  of  coffee  or  tea  instead  of  chocolate,  and  a  little  more 
sugar. 

BICHOF. 

Put  in  a  crockery  tureen  two  bottles  of  white  wine, 
with  an  orange  and  a  lemon,  both  cut  in  slices ;  cover, 
and  place  it  in  a  warm  place  for  about  ten  hours ;  then 


DIVEES  KECEIPTS. 

strain  into  a  vessel,  and  mix  well  with  the  liquor  about  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  grated  cinnamon. 

It  may  be  served  warm  or  cold. 

Another  way. — Melt  a  pound  of  loaf  sugar  in  half  a 
pint  of  cold  water,  and  then  mix  with  it  two  bottles  of 
white  wine,  a  pinch  of  grated  cinnamon,  the  juice  of  an 
orange,  and  that  of  a  lemon,  and  use.  It  takes  only  a  few 
minutes  to  make  it. 

If  found  too  strong,  add  water  and  sugar. 

TO  PRESERVE  BIRDS. 

Broil  or  roast,  according  to  our  directions,  chickens, 
ducks,  geese,  turkeys,  partridges,  pheasants,  prairie  hens, 
quails,  etc. ;  then  carve  them ;  take  the  bones  out  of  the 
pieces,  place  them  in  a  crockery  pot,  which  you  fill 
with  melted  butter  or  lard,  and  cover  well  when  cold. 
Place  the  pot  in  a  cool  and  dry  place,  and  they  will  keep 
for  months. 

When  you  wish  to  eat  them,  take  out  the  quantity  you 
want,  and  place  it  in  a  frying-pan,  with  the  butter  or  lard 
that  is  around  ;  fry  till  warm,  and  serve. 

BREAD-CRUMBS. 

Put  slices  of  stale  bread  in  a  slow  oven  till  they  are 
perfectly  dried  up.  Break  them  in  pieces  and  reduce 
them  to  coarse  powder  with  a  rolling  pin ;  sift  them,  and 
they  are  ready  for  use. 

Bread-crumbs  are  better  than  cracker-crumbs ;  the  lat- 
ter, when  reduced  to  powder,  are  too  floury,  and  besides, 
there  is  always  stale  bread  enough  in  a  kitchen  to  make 
crumbs. 

The  above  crumbs  are  rather  brown. 

White  crumbs. — Cut  in  rather  large  dice  the  soft  part 
of  stale  bread,  put  the  pieces  in  a  new  and  coarse  towel, 


DIVEES   RECEIPTS.  4:7 

rub  between  the  hands  so  as  to  reduce  the  pieces  of  bread 
to  crumbs ;  pass  through  a  colander  or  through  a  sieve,  ac- 
cording to  need,  coarse  or  fine,  and  use. 

BURNT  SUGAR. 

Take  an  old  tin  ladle  and  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
with  two  ounces  of  loaf  sugar  in  it;  stir  with  a  stick  or 
skewer  till  it  is  thoroughly  black  and  burnt  Then  add, 
little  by  little,  about  one  gill  of  water ;  stir  a  little,  boil 
about  four  minutes,  but  not  fast,  lest  it  should  boil  over 
the  ladle  ;  strain,  and  it  is  made. 

As  soon  as  cold,  bottle  it  and  use  when  wanted. 

It  keeps  any  length  of  time. 

It  is  used  to  color  broth,  sauces,  gravies,  etc. 

It  is  called  caramel  in  French. 

COFFEE. 

It  is  simple  to  make  coffee.  Of  course,  when  proper- 
y  made,  with  good  berries,  the  liquor  is  good. 

When  good  roasted  coffee  can  be  bought,  it  saves  the 
trouble  of  roasting  it,  and  is,  or  rather  ought  to  be, 
cheaper  than  it  can  be  done  in  a  family. 

If  coffee  is  roasted  a  long  time  before  being  used  it 
loses  much  of  its  aroma,  therefore  a  family  ought  not  to 
roast  more  than  it  can  use  in  about  a  week,  while  twenty 
or  twenty-five  pounds  can  be  roasted  at  one  time  and  by 
one  person. 

Three  or  four  different  kinds,  roasted  separately,  and 
properly  mixed,  make  better  coffee  than  one  kind  alone. 

A  good  proportion  is :  to  one  pound  of  Java  add 
about  four  ounces  of  Mocha,  and  four  ounces  of  one  or 
two  other  kinds. 

Good  coffee,  as  well  as  tea,  is  said  to  possess  exhila- 
rating properties. 


48  DIVERS   RECEIPTS. 

Its  use  was  not  known  in  Europe  before  1650.  Neither 
was  the  use  of  sugar,  tobacco,  and  brandy. 

Good  coffee  cannot  be  made  but  by  leaching. 

The  easiest  utensil  is  what  is  called  a  filter,  or  coffee- 
pot, or  biggin,  according  to  locality,  with  a  top  to  diffuse 
the  water. 


The  coffee-pot  called   "  the  French  balance "   makes 
the  best-flavored  coffee,  but  it  is  an  expensive  one. 


There  are  several  good  filters,  but  the  great  majority 
of  the  people  find  them  too  complicated  for  daily  use. 

The  bottom  of  the  filter  should  be  of  silvered  brass- 
gauze  instead  of  perforated  tin,  as  it  is  generally. 

Gauze-holes  being  much  smaller  than  those  of  perfo- 
rated tin,  the  coffee  can  be  ground  much  finer,  and  there- 


DIVERS   RECEIPTS.  49 

fore,  all  the  strength  and  aroma  can  be  had ;  while  if 
ground  coarse,  it  is  utterly  impossible. 

Good  coffee  cannot  be  made  in  a  utensil  often  but 
wrongly  called  a  coffee-pot,  which  is  nothing  but  a  pot, 
and  something  like  a  tea-pot. 

With  such  a  utensil,  the  grounds  must  be  boiled ;  and 
as  no  liquor  can  be  boiled  without  allowing  the  steam  to 
escape  (the  steam  made  by  boiling  coffee  being  its  aroma), 
therefore  the  best  part  of  the  coffee  is  evaporated  before 
it  is  served. 

Never  grind  your  coffee  until  ready  to  make  it. 

No  matter  how  air-tight  you  keep  it,  the  aroma  evapo- 
rates or  is  absorbed. 

Coffee  can  be  ground  and  made  as  soon  as  cool ;  but  it 
is  better  to  let  it  stand  for  about  twenty-four  hours  after 
being  roasted. 

If  kept  as  air-tight  as  possible  in  a  tin-box,  it  will 
keep  very  well  for  about  a  week. 

Never  buy  ground  coffee  except  when  you  cannot 
help  it. 

By  taking  a  pinch  of  ground  coffee  and  rolling  it  be- 
tween wetted  fingers,  it  will  remain  in  grains,  if  pure ;  and 
will  form  in  a  ball  if  foreign  matters  are  mixed  with  it. 

TO  ROAST. 

In  roasting,  good  coffee  swells  about  thirty-three  per 
cent.,  and  loses  about  sixteen  per  cent  in  weight. 

Roast  once  a  week  or  oftener. 

Put  coffee  in  the  apparatus  (cylinder,  or  drum,  or 
roaster),  the  quantity  to  be  according  to  the  size  of  the 
roaster,  or  according  to  how  much  is  needed.  Have  a 
rather  slow  fire  at  first;  when  the  coffee  has  swollen,  aug- 
ment the  fire,  turning,  shaking,  tossing  the  roaster,  some* 
3 


50  DIVERS   RECEIPTS. 

times  fast,  sometimes  slowly,  and  take  from  the  fire  a  little 
before  it  is  roasted  enough ;  the  roasting  will  be  finished 
before  the  coffee  gets  cold  and  before  taking  it  from  the 
roaster,  which  you  continue  turning  and  shaking  as  if  it 
were  yet  on  the  fire. 

A  charcoal  fire  is  the  handiest,  and  more  easily  regu- 
lated. 

It  is  well  roasted  when  it  evaporates  a  pleasing  odor 
and  when  of  a  brownish  color. 

Then  take  it  from  the  roaster,  spread  it  on  a  matting  or 
on  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  put  it  in  a  tin-box  as  soon  as  cold. 

It  is  exceedingly  difficult,  if  not  utterly  impossible,  to 
roast  coffee  properly  by  machinery,  and  for  two  reasons : 
in  the  first  place,  there  is  too  much  of  it  in  the  cylinder  to 
roast  evenly,  some  berries  are  burned,  others  not  roasted 
enough ;  the  other  is,  that  being  turned  by  machinery,  the 
cylinder  is  turned  regularly  and  is  neither  shaken  nor 
tossed ;  and  even  if  there  were  not  too  much  coffee  in  it, 
some  berries  would  be  much  more  roasted  than  others. 

TO  MAKE. 

Set  a  kettle  of  cold  water  on  the  fire.  Place  the  ground 
coffee  in  the  filter,  and  as  soon  as  the  water  begins  to  boil, 
pour  just  enough  of  it  over  the  coffee  to  wet  it.  Put  the 
kettle  back  on  the  fire,  and  again,  at  the  first  boiling,  pour 
it  over  the  coffee  rather  slowly,  and  till  you  have  poured 
enough  water  to  furnish  the  quantity  of  coffee  required. 

If  the  water  does  not  pass  through  fast  enough,  just 
stop  pouring  for  a  few  seconds,  that  is,  long  enough  to 
put  the  kettle  back  on  the  fire  and  start  the  boiling 
again.  As  soon  as  the  water  has  passed  through,  the 
coffee  is  made.  The  quantity  of  coffee  must  be  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  you  wish  it,  and  the  quantity  wanted, 
or  according  to  age  and  constitution. 


DIVEES   RECEIPTS.  51 

Four  teaspoonfuls  make  a  quart  of  very  good  coffee 
for  breakfast.  It  would  be  rather  strong  for  children,  but 
can  be  diluted  to  a  proper  state  with  milk. 

No  matter  what  quantity  of  coffee  is  put  in  the  filter, 
the  liquor  must  be  clear;  the  more  is  used,  the  blacker  the 
substance  is,  but  it  must  never  be  muddy.  If  muddy  at 
all,  be  sure  you  have  not  used  good  coffee. 

One  pound  of  good  coffee  to  a  quart  of  water,  should 
make  black  but  clear  coffee. 

CAF£  AU  LAIT. 

This  is  coffee  and  milk  for  breakfast.  The  milk  is  set 
on  the  fire  in  a  tin  saucepan,  and  taken  off  when  it  rises ; 
then  mixed  with  the  coffee,  either  in  the  cup  or  any  kind 
of  vessel  The  proportions  are  pint  for  pint. 

CAF6  NOIR. 

Cafe  noir  is  the  name  given  to  the  coffee  taken  after 
dinner.  It  is  generally  made  rather  strong.  Gentlemen 
sometimes  put  liquor  in  it — a  glass  of  brandy,  or  rum, 
or  kirschwasser ;  and  ladies,  a  little  cold  milk. 

Taken  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  after  dinner,  it  helps 
digestion.  It  excites  the  faculties  of  the  mind,  and  gives 
what  physiologists  call  "  agreeable  sensations." 

Coffee  is  nutritious,  and  to  a  certain  extent  prevents 
waste  of  the  system. 

CHOCOLATE. 

The  quantity  of  chocolate  for  a  certain  quantity  of  milk 
is  according  to  taste.  Two  ounces  of  chocolate  make  a 
good  cup  of  it,  and  rather  thick. 

Break  the  chocolate  in  pieces,  put  it  in  a  tin  saucepan 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  water  to  an  ounce  of  chocolate, 
and  set  it  on  a  rather  slow  fire.  Stir  now  and  then  till 
thoroughly  melted. 


52  DIVEES   EECEIPTS. 

While  the  chocolate  is  melting,  set  the  quantity  of  milk 
desired  in  another  tin  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as 
it  rises  and  when  the  chocolate  is  melted,  as  directed 
above,  turn  the  milk  into  the  chocolate,  little  by  little, 
beating  well  at  the  same  time  with  an  egg-beater.  Keep 
beating  and  boiling  after  being  mixed,  for  three  or  four 
minutes ;  take  off  and  serve. 

If  both  chocolate  and  milk  are  good,  it  will  be  frothy ; 
and  no  better  or  more  nutritious  drink  can  be  had. 

CHOCA. 

Choca  is  nothing  more  nor  less  than  one  cup  of  coffee 
and  milk  mixed  with  a  cup  of  chocolate,  and  for  breakfast. 

COCOA. 

Put  in  a  tea  or  coffee  cup  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  ground  cocoa,  pour  boiling  water  or  boiling  milk  on  it, 
little  by  little,  stirring  with  a  spoon  the  while ;  sweeten  it  to 
taste.  A  few  drops  of  essence  of  vanilla  may  be  added, 
according  to  taste. 

ESSENCE  OF  SPINACH,  OR  GREEN  ESSENCE. 
Put  two  handfuls  of  very  green  and  fresh  spinach  in 
a  mortar  and  pound  it  well.  Then  put  it  in  a  saucepan, 
set  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  and  when  on  the  point  of  boiling 
take  it  off,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  and  use.  It  may  be 
kept  for  some  time  with  a  little  sugar. 

ESSENCE  OF  BEEF. 

The  essence  of  beef  of  commerce  is  well  known. 

To  make  essence  of  beef  used  in  cooking  and  called 
glace  in  French,  set  three  or  four  quarts  of  broth  on  a 
slow  fire,  in  a  saucepan  and  reduce  it  to  jelly.  Keep  it 
simmering  all  the  time ;  it  may  take  twenty  hours  to  re- 


DIVEES   RECEIPTS.  53 

duce.  When  properly  reduced,  it  is  of  a  very  dark-brown 
color  and  has  a  veiy  pleasant  odor. 

When  cold,  it  must  be  rather  hard. 

When  essence  of  beef  tastes  like  glue  and  has  an  un- 
pleasant odor,  it  is  not  made  properly,  or  with  good  beef 

If  properly  made,  it  will  keep  any  length  of  time. 

It  is  used  to  thicken  sauces,  to  decorate  boned  birds, 
etc. ;  when  in  a  hurry,  it  may  be  used  to  make  soup,  but,  like 
every  thing  preserved,  is  of  course  inferior  to  fresh  broth. 

ICING. 

Put  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  pulverized  sugar  in 
a  bowl  with  the  white  of  a  small  egg;  and  then  mix  and 
work  well  for  at  least  five  minutes  with  a  piece  of  wood. 
When  done  it  is  perfectly  white  and  rather  thick. 

Make  a  kind  of  funnel  with  thick,  white  paper ;  put 
the  mixture  in  it,  and  by  squeezing  it  out,  you  make  deco- 
rations according  to  fancy,  on  cakes,  charlotte  russe,  etc. 
You  make  the  decorations  of  the  size  you  please,  by 
cutting  the  smaller  end  of  the  paper-funnel  of  the  size 
you  wish. 

The  mixture  may  also  be  spread  on  cakes  with  a  knife, 
according  to  what  kind  of  decoration  is  desired. 

A  charlotte  russe  may  be  decorated  in  the  same  way, 
with  the  same  cream  as  that  used  to  fill  it. 

MEAT  JELLIES. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  gelatine  with  three 
eggs  and  shells,  a  tablespoonful  of  salt,  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon,  a  liquor-glass  of  rum  or  brandy,  or  a  wine-glass  of 
sherry,  port,  or  madeira  wine ;  mix  well  the  whole.  Add 
one  quart  of  broth,  twelve  pepper-corns ;  beat  the  whole 
well  with  an  egg-beater  and  set  on  a  good  fire ;  stir  gently 
till  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  then  move  it  on  a  rather  slow  fire ; 


54:  DIVERS   RECEIPTS. 

boil  slowly  for  about  eight  minutes  and  turn  into  the  jelly- 
bag.  Have  two  bowls  at  hand  to  be  used  alternately; 
have  one  under  the  bag  before  turning  the  jelly  into  it ;  and 
when  it  has  passed  through  the  bag  once,  turn  it  into  the 
bag  again,  putting  the  other  bowl  under;  repeat  this  three 
or  four  times,  and  it  will  be  perfectly  clear.  Just  before 
turning  into  the  bag  the  first  time,  a  few  drops  of  burnt 
sugar  are  added  to  give  the  jelly  an  amber  color.  Use  the 
jelly  immediately  if  wanted  in  liquid  form,  as  to  fill  a 
meat-pie,  etc.,  or  put  it  on  ice  to  congeal. 

Boned-turkey  Jetty. — As  soon  as  the  water  in  which 
you  have  boiled  a  boned  turkey  is  cold,  skim  off  the  fat 
and  strain  it.  Then  proceed  exactly  as  for  meat  jelly,  ex- 
cept that  you  take  one  quart  of  the  above  instead  of  one 
quart  of  beef  broth. 

Boned-chicken  Jelly. — Prepare  the  water  in  which  the 
boned  chicken  has  been  cooked,  the  same  as  above ;  take  a 
quart  of  it  and  proceed  as  for  meat  jelly  for  the  rest. 

For  jeUy  to  decorate  any  boned  bird,  the  water  in 
which  it  has  been  cooked  may  be  used,  as  described  above* 

Calves' -feet  Jelly. — Scald  well  four  calves'  feet,  and  split 
each  in  two  lengthwise.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
about  three  pints  of  water,  two  onions,  two  cloves,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  six  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  stalk 
of  celery  if  handy,  salt,  and  half  a  dozen  pepper-corns. 
Set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  till  well  cooked.  Serve  the  feet 
with  a  poulette  or  vinaigrette. 

Strain  the  liquor ;  put  in  it  two  eggs  with  their  shells, 
salt,  rum  or  wine,  as  in  meat  jelly ;  beat  the  whole  well 
with  an  egg-beater;  set  on  a  good  fire,  and  finish  like 
meat  jelly. 

Calfs-head  Jelly. — Proceed  as  for  the  above  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  use  four  eggs,  having  about 


DIVEBS   RECEIPTS.  55 

twice  as  much  liquor,  therefore  making  twice  as  much 
jelly.  A  little  gelatine  may  be  added,  if  not  found  firm 
enough. 

MEAT  GRAVY. 

When  you  are  short  of  gravy,  cut  a  little  piece  of  veal, 
say  half  a  pound  of  the  breast  or  neck  piece,  or  trimmings 
of  veal-cutlets ;  set  on  the  fire  with  about  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, and  half  of  a  rather  small  carrot  cut  in  slices ;  stir,  and 
when  the  meat  is  turning  rather  brown,  add  two  or  three 
onions  in  slices  also ;  stir  again  till  the  onions  are  nearly 
fried  ;  when  covered  with  broth  or  water,  add  salt,  a  dozen 
whole  peppers,  a  bay-leaf,  and  two  stalks  of  thyme ;  boil 
gently  for  two  or  three  hours,  and  strain. 

If  it  is  boiling  away,  add  water  to  fill  up. 

Trimmings  of  mutton,  lamb,  beef,  chicken,  or  turkey  t 
may  be  added  to  the  veal. 

In  case  of  hurry,  it  may  be  done  quickly  and  by 
boiling  rather  fast,  but  it  is  not  as  good,  and  there  is  less 
of  it  with  the  same  quantity  of  meat. 

For  a  grand  dinner,  the  gravy  may  be  made  one  or 
two  and  even  three  days  in  advance ;  then  simmer  it  for 
five  or  six  hours. 

MELONS. 

Musk-melons  are  always  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  but 
must  be  eaten  immediately  after  soup,  or  the  first  thing  of 
all  if  no  soup  is  served. 

It  is  a  great  mistake  to  serve  melons  as  a  dessert. 

Water-melons,  though  eaten  abundantly,  are  consid- 
ered very  unwholesome  by  the  great  majority  of  doctors, 
chemists,  and  physiologists. 

Musk-melons  are  served  in  slices  with  sugar,  or  with 
gait  and  pepper,  according  to  taste. 


56  DIVEK8   RECEIPTS. 

MEUNI&RE. 

Mix  well  together  in  a  cup  one  teaspoonful  of  floui 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water. 

It  is  used  to  thicken  sauces  and  different  dishes. 

MINT. 

Put  four  sprigs  of  mint  into  a  quart  of  brandy,  cork 
well,  or  cover  air-tight  if  in  a  pot,  and  leave  thus  forty- 
eight  hours;  then  strain  through  a  cloth.  Put  half  a 
pound  of  loaf  sugar  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  water,  set 
it  on  the  fire,  and,  at  the  first  boiling,  pour  it  into  the 
quart  of  brandy;  cover  with  a  cloth,  let  it  cool,  and 
again  strain  the  whole  through  a  fine  cloth.  Bottle  and 
cork  carefully,  and  use  when  wanted. 

A  small  liquor-glass  of  it  is  very  good  for  stomach- 
ache ;  it  is  also  useful  after  having  eaten  any  thing 
difficult  of  digestion. 

PANADE. 

Break  in  pieces  the  soft  part  of  a  small  stale  loaf  of 
bread ;  put  it  in  a  tin  saucepan,  cover  it  with  cold  water, 
and  leave  thus  about  an  hour ;  then  mash  it  well,  set  it  on 
the  fire,  add  salt,  butter,  and  sugar,  to  taste;  simmer  about 
an  hour,  then  add  again  two  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  with 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream  or  milk ;  mix  the  whole  well 
together,  and  serve. 

It  makes  an  excellent  food  for  infants. 

PAP. 

Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  tin  saucepan,  set  it  on  the 
fire,  and  when  melted,  turn  into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
flour,  thoroughly  mixed  with  half  a  pint  of  milk ;  stir  with 


DIVERS   RECEIPTS.  57 

a  wooden  spoon,  boil  gently  for  about  twelve  minutes, 
stirring  the  while ;  take  off,  turn  into  a  bowl,  add  salt  and 
sugar  to  taste,  and  use. 

If  wanted  richer,  an  egg  may  be  mixed  with  the  flour 
and  milk,  or  a  yolk  of  egg  may  be  added  as  soon  as 
taken  from  the  fire. 

RAISINS. 

When  the  stems  of  raisins  or  of  currants  are  removed, 
put  them  in  a  bowl,  dust  them  well  with  flour,  move  them 
round  a  little,  then  turn  them  into  a  sieve  and  shake  them 
well.  This  process  will  remove  the  sand  as  well  as 
washing  them,  and  will  not  take  away  the  sweetness. 

SANDWICHES. 
These  are  too  well  known  to  require  any  direction. 

SAUSAGE-MEAT. 

Butchers  generally,  with  an  eye  to  economy,  make 
sausage-meat  of  bad  or  tainted  pork. 

We  recommend  our  readers,  as  far  as  possible,  never 
to  buy  sausage-meat  ready  made,  but  to  make  it  them- 
selves, or  have  it  made  according  to  their  directions. 

A  chopping-machine  costs  very  little,  and  saves  a 
great  deal  of  work,  besides  chopping  much  better  than 
can  be  done  by  hand. 

The  proportions  are :  one  pound  of  lean  pork  and  one 
pound  of  lean  veal,  chopped  very  fine,  well  mixed,  and 
both  very  fresh.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  and 
clove  grated,  and  with  cinnamon,  if  liked. 

A  yolk  of  egg  may  be  added  to  a  pound  of  meat. 

It  may  also  be  made  with  one  pound  of  veal   and 
half  a  pound  or  less  of  pork,  or   with  veal  only  or  pork 
only,  according  to  taste. 
3* 


58  DIVERS   RECEIPTS. 

SOUSE. 

Put  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and  set  it  on 
the  fire;  when  melted,  add  two  carrots  and  two  onions 
sliced,  stir  now  and  then  till  they  begin  to  turn  brown ; 
then  add  about  three  pints  of  warm  water,  half  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  one  clove  of  garlic,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
of  thyme,  a  clove,  a  bay-leaf,  six  pepper-corns,  a  little 
grated  nutmeg,  and  salt.  Simmer  about  an  hour,  strain, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Another. — Put  two  quarts  of  vinegar  and  about  ten 
quarts  of  water  in  a  stone  or  crockery  vessel,  with  four 
cloves  of  garlic,  a  handful  of  parsley,  six  cloves,  four  stalks 
of  thyme,  four  bay-leaves,  half  a  nutmeg  grated,  three  or 
four  carrots,  and  three  or  four  onions  sliced,  a  little  salt, 
and  two  dozen  pepper-corns.  Stir  and  mix  the  whole  well, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Pieces  of  mutton,  beef,  pork,  venison,  and  bear-meat, 
may  be  soaked  in  one  of  the  above  preparations  from  four 
to  six  days  before  cooking  them.  A  piece  of  tough  meat 
will  be  more  tender  and  juicy  after  being  soaked. 

More  or  less  may  be  made,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
piece  of  meat. 

TEA. 

There  are  many  ways  of  making  tea ;  we  might  say 
that  every  one  makes  it  in  his  own  way ;  but,  after 
many  experiments  and  much  information,  we  have  found 
the  following  to  be  the  best : 

Warm  the  teapot  either  by  pouring  boiling  water  in 
it  and  emptying  it,  or  by  placing  it  on  a  corner  of  the 
range. 

Then  put  good  tea  in  it  (the  quantity  to  be  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  and  also  to  the  quantity  you  want), 
and  pour  'boiling  water  on  the  leaves,  just  enough  to  wet 


DIVERS   RECEIPTS.  59 

tnem  ;  leave  thus  about  one  minute,  then  pour  on  all  the 
water  you  want. 

Let  it  steep  no  longer  than  about  six  minutes,  and  not 
less  than  four  minutes,  before  drawing  it. 

If  allowed  to  steep  longer  than  six  minutes,  all  the 
astringency  of  the  tea  is  extracted,  and  it  acts  and  has  a 
bad  effect  on  the  nervous  system,  besides  losing  most  of 
its  aroma. 

Chemists  and  physiologists  generally  recommend  black 
tea,  as  not  affecting  the  nervous  system  as  much  as  green 
tea. 

Tea  being  naturally  very  astringent,  should  never  be 
served  at  breakfast. 

Taken  after  dinner,  instead  of  cafe  noir,  it  has  the 
same  effect,  and  brandy  may  be  mixed  with  it  as  in  coffee. 

Tea  is  excellent  in  damp  climates  and  marshy  coun- 
tries, but  it  must  be  taken  after  a  substantial  meal. 

Drinking  warm  tea  while  eating  causes  the  food  to 
pass  through  the  system  without  nourishing  it,  or  supply- 
ing its  waste. 

TOAST. 

Cut  several  slices  of  bread  of  even  size,  and  spread 
some  anchovy-butter  on  them;  cut  anchovies  in  small 
strips,  lengthwise,  lay  them  on  the  bread  also,  and  then 
spread  over  some  hard-boiled  egg  chopped  fine,  and  on  ii 
some  parsley  also  chopped  fine,  finish  with  capers  here  and 
there. 

Place  the  toast  or  slices  of  bread  on  a  dish,  tastefully 
arranged  all  around,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  in  the  middle, 
and  you  have  a  fine  hors-d'oeuvre. 

Sardines,  Dutch  herrings,  or  red  herrings  may  be  used 
the  same  as  anchovies. 


60  DIVEES  RECEIPTS. 

WELSH    RAREBIT. 

This  dish  is  not  generally  understood.  It  is  thought 
by  many  to  be  "Welsh  rabbit,  that  is,  a  rabbit  prepared 
Welsh  fashion. 

It  is  not  a  rabbit,  but  Welsh  cheese  (a  certain  kind 
only,  and  prepared  for  that  purpose),  melted  to  a  certain 
degree,  and  then  spread  on  toast  of  Welsh  bread. 

Grate  some  Gloucester  or  Gruyere  cheese  and  pepper  it 
with  Cayenne  pepper.  Fry  some  slices  of  bread  with  a 
little  butter,  but  on  one  side  only,  until  perfectly  yellow, 
then  spread  a  thick  coat  of  grated  cheese  on  the  fried 
side  of  the  bread,  place  the  slices  in  a  baking-pan,  put 
them  in  a  pretty  warm  oven,  take  off  when  it  begins  to 
melt,  and  serve  warm. 

Then  you  have  as  good  a  Welsh  rarebit  as  can  be 
made  here.  The  receipt  was  given  to  us  by  an  English 
lady. 


POTAGES  OE  SOUPS. 


POTAGE  is  the  modern  word  for  soup,  and  is  used  in 
bills  of  fare  everywhere. 

Three  kinds  of  liquor  are  used  to  make  potages : 
broth,  milk,  and  water. 

Besides  the  liquor,  meat,  fish,  and  vegetables  are 
used. 

The  richest  Dotages  are  made  with  consommt  and  some 

x         ^o 

other  compounds;  such  as  bread,  Italian  pastes,  vegeta- 
bles, etc. 

Consommt  means  rich  broth ;  literally,  it  means  con- 
sumed, perfect,  that  is,  properly  reduced  and  partly  con- 
sumed, as  it  is  the  case  in  making  it.  Consomme  is 
broth  reduced  to  a  certain  point,  according  to  want  or 
taste. 

Broth. — Broth  is  to  good  cooking  what  wheat  is  to 
bread.  Dishes  (with  some  exceptions)  prepared  without 
broth  are,  to  those  prepared  with  it,  what  rye  or  com 
bread  is  to  wheat  bread.  Broth,  and  especially  consommt, 
are  to  old  age  what  milk  is  to  the  infant.  Broth  is  called 
oouillon  in  France,  and  stock  in  England.  The  word  pot- 
au-feu  means  the  meat,  vegetables,  seasonings,  spices,  and 
the  "  pot "  or  soup-kettle  itself,  t.  e.,  every  thing  made  use 
of  in  making  broth.  The  popular  meaning  of  the  term 
in  France  is,  the  soup  and  the  beef  and  vegetables  served 


62  POTAGES   OE   SOUPS. 

as  releves ;  and,  with  the  working-classes,  the  only  thing 
(with  bread,  wine,  and  fruit)  composing  the  family  dinner. 
The  French  army  is  fed  on  this  pot-au-feu  three  hundred 
and  sixty  days  in  the  year. 

It  is  a  great  mistake  to  believe  that  bones  or  veal 
make  good  broth ;  by  boiling  or  simmering  bones  or 
veal,  you  obtain  a  gelatinous  liquid,  but  not  a  rich  broth 
with  a  pleasant  flavor.  When  properly  made,  broth  is 
clear.  If  milky,  it  has  been  made  with  bones,  veal,  or 
very  inferior  beef. 

Broth  for  Potages. — Take  three  pounds  of  good,  lean, 
fresh  beef,  from  any  part  except  the  shin.  There  must 
not  be  more  than  two  ounces  of  bone  to  a  pound  of  meat, 
and  the  less  bone  the  better.  Place  the  meat  in  a  soup- 
kettle  or  iron  saucepan  lined  with  tin,  with  three  quarts  of 
cold  water  and  salt,  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire.  After 
about  thirty  minutes,  the  scum  or  albumen  of  the  meat 
will  gather  on  the  surface,  and  the  water  will  commence 
boiling.  Now  place  the  kettle  on  a  more  moderate  fire, 
add  one  gill  of  cold  water,  and  begin  to  skim  off  the 
scum,  which  will  take  only  a  few  minutes.  Then  add 
one  middle-sized  carrot,  half  as  much  turnip,  one  middle- 
sized  leek,  a  stalk  of  celery,  one  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf, 
one  onion  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  it,  and  two  cloves  of 
garlic.  Keep  the  kettle  between  simmering  and  boiling 
heat  for  about  five  hours.  Dish  the  meat  with  carrot, 
turnip,  and  leek  around  it,  and  serve  it  as  a  releve.  Strain 
the  broth,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

If  the  broth  is  required  to  be  richer,  use  more  beef 
and  less  water,  but  follow  the  same  process ;  if  weaker, 
use  more  water  and  less  beef,  but  still  follow  the  same 
process. 

JSrotk  for  Sauces  and  Gravies. — Place  in  a  soup-kettle 


POTAGES   OE   SOUPS.  63 

*T  saucepan  fresh  bones  of  beef,  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  or 
poultry — of  either,  or  of  all;  also,  bones  of  the  same 
meats  from  roasted  pieces ;  also  trimmings  of  the  same, 
if  very  fresh,  with  one  quart  of  cold  water  to  every  pound 
of  bones  or  meat ;  skim  it  like  the  preceding,  add  the 
same  vegetables  and  seasonings,  and  simmer  for  at  least 
six  hours.  Then  skim  off  very  carefully  all  the  fat  on  the 
surface,  pass  the  remainder  through  a  strainer  or  a  sieve, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use.  This  broth  is  certainly  very  in- 
ferior to  the  preceding  one,  but  it  is  excellent  for  sauces 
and  gravies,  and  is  very  cheaply  made.  It  may  be  used 
for  potages  also ;  but,  as  we  have  said  above,  it  is  very 
gelatinous,  and  cannot  be  compared  with  the  highly  nutri- 
tious beef- broth. 

Broth  that  is  not  to  be  used  immediately  must  be 
cooled  quickly  after  being  strained,  as  the  quicker  it  is 
cooled  the  longer  it  keeps.  As  soon  as  cold,  put  it  in  a 
stone  jar  or  crockery  vessel,  and  place  it  in  a  cool,  dry, 
and  dark  place.  It  will  keep  three  or  four  days  in  winter, 
but  only  one  day  in  summer.  If  the  weather  is  stormy, 
it  will  not  keep  even  for  twelve  hours;  it  turns  sour  very 
quickly. 

I  do  not  put  parsnips  or  thyme  in  broth,  the  taste  of 
these  two  vegetables  being  too  strong.  They  really  neu- 
tralize the  fine  aroma  of  broth.  Even  in  this  nineteenth 
century  there  are  some  pretty  good  cooks  who  put  thyme 
and  parsnip  in  broth,  but  they  do  it  by  routine.  Routine 
is  in  every  thing  the  greatest  enemy  of  progress.  Ancient 
cookery  used  to  put  in  the  pot  (old  name  for  soup-kettle) 
a  burnt  onion  to  give  an  amber  color  to  the  broth.  This 
has  exactly  the  same  effect  as  thyme  and  parsnip,  giving 
it  a  bad  taste,  and  neutralizing  the  flavor  given  to  the 
broth  by  the  osmazome  of  the  meat.  When  broth  of  an 


64  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

amber  color  is  desired,  add  to  it  a  few  drops  of  burnt 
sugar,  the  receipt  for  making  which,  will  be  found  else- 
where. 

Consomme. — There  are  two  ways  of  making  consom- 
me :  one  is  to  make  broth  as  above,  with  the  exception 
that  five  pounds  of  lean  beef,  instead  of  three,  are  used 
with  three  quarts  of  water,  and  simmered  from  seven  to 
eight  hours,  instead  of  five,  the  vegetables  and  seasonings 
being  the  same ;  or  by  boiling  broth  gently  till  properly 
reduced.  .'^ 

The  other  way  is  to  roast,  until  they  are  only  one-third 
done,  one,  two,  or  three  fowls,  not  under  two  years  old ; 
then  place  them  in  a  soup-kettle  with  three  pounds  of  lean 
beef;  wet  with  three  quarts  of  cold  water;  skim  off  as 
above  directed ;  add  the  same  vegetables  and  seasonings  as 
for  broth  for  potages.  After  having  simmered  the  whole 
for  three  hours,  the  fowl  or  fowls  must  be  taken  out  of  the 
kettle,  and  the  rest  is  to  be  simmered  for  about  three 
hours  longer.  The  meat,  vegetables,  and  seasonings  are 
then  taken  from  the  kettle  or  saucepan;  the  liquor  is 
strained,  and  that  liquor  is  the  best  consomme  that  can 
be  made ;  or  by  boiling  the  same,  gently,  in  three  quarts 
of  good  broth,  you  make  consomme  also. 

The  reason  for  directing  to  use  one,  two,  or  three  fowls 
is,  that  the  more  fowls  used,  the  better  and  richer  the 
broth.  The  fowls  after  having  been  thus  used  may  be 
prepared  in  salad,  and  make  a  very  excellent  dish. 

One  pound  of  beef  is  enough  to  make  broth  for  a 
potage  for  three  or  four  persons. 

Always  use  fresh  meat ;  meat  with  a  venison  taste  or 
tainted  would  spoil  if  not  entirely  destroy  the  broth. 

To  clarify  Broth. — If  not  as  clear  as  wanted,  beat  the 
white  of  an  egg  with  a  gill  of  cold  broth,  and  turn  into  the 


POTAGES   OB  SOUPS.  65 

broth  ;  boil  gently  about  ten  minutes,  and  strain  through  a 
cloth  or  towel. 

Any  kind  of  potage  made  with  broth  may  be  made 
with  consomme.  It  may  also  be  made  with  water,  adding 
butter.  With  consomme  it  is  richer,  and  with  water 
much  inferior,  than  with  broth. 

When  a  rump-piece  is  used  to  make  broth,  it  is  better 
to  bone  it  first,  and  take  it  from  the  soup-kettle  after  three 
or  four  hours ;  it  is  served  as  a  releve,  or  prepared  as  cold 
beef.  The  broth  is  finished  as  directed;  the  bones 
and  vegetables  being  kept  on  the  fire  longer  than  the 
meat. 

Chicken  and  turkey  broth  are  often  called  potage  de 
sante  (potage  of  health). 

Chicken. — Roast  or  bake  till  turning  yellow,  a  chicken 
over  two  years  old.  Put  it  in  a  soup-kettle  with  three 
pints  of  water,  and  set  it  on  a  rather  slow  fire ;  skim  off  the 
scum,  add  a  middling-sized  onion,  a  leek,  a  few  stalks  of 
chervil  if  handy,  a  middling-sized  head  of  lettuce,  and 
salt ;  simmer  about  three  hours.  Take  out  the  chicken  and 
vegetables,  skim  off  the  fat,  strain,  and  use.  This  broth  is 
excellent  for  a  weak  stomach,  and  is  easy  of  digestion. 
The  chicken  is  served  in  salad. 

Turkey. — Procure  a  rather  old  turkey  and  roast  or 
bake  it  till  about  one-third  done ;  put  it  in  a  soup-kettle 
with  about  a  pint  of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat,  and  set  it 
on  a  rather  slow  fire.  As  soon  as  the  scum  comes  on  the 
surface,  skim  it  off  carefully ;  then  add  two  onions,  two 
leeks,  two  or  three  heads  of  lettuce,  a  small  handful  of 
chervil  if  handy,  and  salt.  Simmer  about  five  hours. 

Use  the  broth  as  chicken-broth  above,  and  serve  the 
turkey  in  salad. 

Fish  (also  called  a  la  Lucuttus). — Slice  three  mid- 


66  POTAGES   OB  SOUPS. 

dling-sizea  onions  and  fry  them  with  one  ounce  of  butter 
till  turning  yellow ;  add  three  or  four  pounds  of  fish  (bass, 
pike,  trout,  salmon,  and  the  like),  any  fish  having  a  firm 
and  compact  flesh,  of  one  or  several  kinds ;  add  also  two 
carrots,  two  onions,  and  one  leek,  all  sliced ;  four  stalks  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  one  clove  of  garlic,  a  bay-leaf,  one 
clove,  six  pepper-corns,  salt ;  cover  the  whole  with  cold 
water,  set  on  a  good  but  not  brisk  fire,  boil  gently  for 
about  two  hours.  If  the  water  is  boiling  away,  add 
some  more ;  then  strain,  and  use. 

This  broth  may  be  used  for  bisque  and  fish  sauces, 
instead  of  beef-broth. 

It  may  be  made  rich ;  for  instance,  instead  of  three 
pounds  of  fish,  use  six,  seven,  eight  pounds,  or  more,  and 
seasonings  in  proportion. 

Louis  XY.  was  on  a  visit  to  the  monastery  of  Saint 
Denis  one  day  during  Lent ;  after  having  walked  all  over 
the  grounds  and  gardens,  he  was  offered  a  cup  of  broth  by 
the  superior. 

Being  a  little  fatigued,  he  took  the  cup  and  drank  the 
whole  at  one  draught. 

In  going  back  to  Versailles,  one  of  his  suite,  who  did 
not  like  the  monk-superior,  adroitly  alluded  to  the  cup 
of  broth,  and  managed  to  persuade  the  king  that  the 
monk  had  done  it  on  purpose ;  that  is,  had  made  the 
king  partake  of  meat-broth,  when  it  was  forbidden  by 
the  Church. 

The  next  day  the  monk-superior  was  sent  for  and 
brought  before  the  king.  On  hearing  the  object  of  the 
summons,  he  asked  the  king  if  the  broth  had  indisposed 
him.  Being  answered  in  the  negative,  he  begged  to  be 
allowed  to  prepare  the  same  broth  before  the  king  him- 
self, which  he  did,  and  from  that  time  till  his  death  the 


POTAGES  OK  SOUPS.  67 

king  used  to  send  several  hundred  pounds  of  fish  during 
Lent  to  the  monks  of  Saint-Denis. 

Frog. — Skin  and  put  the  hind-legs  of  two  dozen  of 
frogs  in  cold  water  for  an  hour ;  drain  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire ;  stir  now  and  then  till 
they  are  turning  yellow,  then  take  them  off  and  chop  the 
flesh  rather  fine ;  put  back  in  the  pan  with  a  carrot  sliced, 
a  stalk  of  celery  and  one  leek,  both  chopped,  a  little  salt, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  water.  Simmer  for  about  two 
hours;  mash  the  whole  through  a  colander,  add  butter 
which  you  stir  and  mix  in,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

This  broth,  taken  warm  before  retiring,  is  excellent  for 
persons  having  a  cough  or  cold. 

It  is  also  excellent  for  consumptive  persons,  and  is  only 
second  to  snail-broth. 

Another. — Take  the  hind-legs  of  fifty  well-skinned 
green  frogs,  put  them  in  cold  water  and  a  little  salt  for 
half  an  hour — drain  them  ;  then  put  them  in  a  crockery 
kettle,  with  a  leek,  half  a  carrot,  two  stalks  of  celery,  a 
middling-sized  parsnip,  a  turnip,  two  onions,  one  clove  of 
garlic,  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon,  a  little  salt,  and  white  pep- 
per ;  cover  the  whole  well  with  cold  water,  set  on  the  fire, 
simmer  gently  about  four  hours ;  strain,  pour  on  croutons, 
and  serve. 

The  hind-legs  of  the  frogs  are  taken  from  the  strainer, 
placed  on  a  dish,  and  served  at  breakfast  the  next  day, 
with  a  white  sauce,  or  in  fricassee,  as  a  chicken. 

Game. — Roast  or  bake,  till  about  one-third  done,  two 
prairie-hens,  and  put  them  in  a  soup-kettle  with  about  one 
pound  of  lean  beef,  salt,  and  five  pints  of  water.  Set  the 
kettle  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  skim  off  the  scum  when  it 
gathers  on  the  surface,  and  then  add  half  a  carrot,  two 
stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  celery,  one  onion  with  a  clove 


68  POTAGES   OB  SOUPS. 

stuck  in  it,  a  bay-leaf,  six  pepper-corns,  and  two  cloves  of 
garlic.  Simmer  about  three  hours,  and  take  the  birds  out 
of  the  kettle  ;  simmer  then  two  hours  longer;  strain,  and 
the  broth  is  ready  for  use. 

Game-broth  is  warming  and  stimulating ;  it  may  be 
taken  alone,  or  prepared  with  croutons,  rice,  vermicelli,  or 
other  Italian  pastes,  the  same  as  beef-broth. 

The  prairie-hens  are  served  in  salmis,  and  the  beef  is 
served  as  boiled  beef. 

Snail. — Clean  and  prepare  twenty-five  snails  as  direct- 
ed. Put  them  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  carrot,  an  onion, 
and  a  head  of  lettuce,  all  chopped,  a  small  handful  of 
chervil,  a  few  leaves  of  sorrel,  and  a  little  salt ;  cover  the 
whole  with  three  pints  of  cold  water.  Boil  slowly  for 
about  three  hours,  strain  the  broth,  add  a  little  butter  to 
it,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

A  tumblerful  of  this  broth,  taken  warm  before  retiring, 
is  certainly  the  best  thing  for  a  consumptive  person. 

It  is  also  excellent  for  a  cough. 

Just  salt  the  snails  to  taste,  and  eat  them  as  they  are, 
warm  or  cold. 

Veal. — Procure  two  pounds  of  veal,  from  the  neck  or 
breast  piece.  Put  the  meat  in  a  soup-kettle  with  two 
quarts  of  cold  water  and  a  little  salt ;  set  it  on  a  good  fire, 
and  skim  off  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  gathers  on  the  surface. 
When  skimmed,  add  a  head  of  lettuce,  a  leek  (and  a  few 
stalks  of  chewil  if  handy) ;  simmer  for  about  three  hours ; 
strain,  and  use. 

This  broth,  as  well  as  chicken  and  turkey  broth,  is  ex- 
cellent for  convalescent  persons. 

It  may  be  made  richer  by  putting  a  little  more  meat, 
according  to  taste ;  but  generally  the  physician  gives  di- 
rections. 


POTAGES   OB   SOUPS.  69 

Another. — Soak  a  calf's  liver  in  cold  water  for  two 
hours,  clean  and  wash  it  well ;  put  it  in  a  soup-kettle  with 
about  three  pints  of  cold  water,  salt,  boil  gently  for  an 
hour  and  a  half,  and  then  add  a  handful  of  water-cresses ; 
simmer  fifteen  minutes  longer,  strain  and  use. 

Another. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular,  ex- 
cept that  you  use  a  handful  of  chervil  instead  of  water- 
cresses. 

Another. — Use  three  or  four  leeks  instead  of  water- 
cresses,  and  proceed  as  above  for  every  other  particular. 

The  last  three  especially  make  a  very  refreshing  drink, 
and  are  a  great  relief  in  some  cases  of  fever. 

Vegetable  Broth  (called  also  Bouillon  Maigre). — Scrape, 
clean,  and  slice  three  carrots  and  three  turnips,  peel  three 
onions ;  fry  the  whole  with  a  little  butter  till  it  turns  rather 
yellow  ;  and  then  add  two  plants  of  celery  cut  in  pieces, 
three  or  four  leeks,  also  cut  in  pieces ;  stir  and  fry  the 
whole  for  about  six  minutes.  When  fried,  add  also  one 
clove  of  garlic,  salt,  pepper,  two  cloves,  two  stalks  of  pars- 
ley, a  little  nutmeg  grated ;  cover  with  about  three  quarts 
of  water.  Keep  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  skim  off  the  scum 
carefully,  and  then  simmer  for  about  three  hours.  Strain, 
and  use. 

This  liquor  is  called  vegetable  broth,  and  is  used  in- 
stead of  broth  in  time  of  Lent  by  persons  who  do  not  want 
to  use  beef-broth. 

Another. — Proceed  as  above,  and  with  the  same  vege- 
tables till  they  are  fried.  Then  add  salt,  pepper,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  four  stalks  of  parsley,  three  cloves,  a  little 
nutmeg  grated,  two  quarts  of  white  beans  previously  soak- 
ed in  cold  water  for  twenty-four  hours,  and  five  or  six 
quarts  of  water.  Skim  it  as  above ;  simmer  for  about  four 
hours;  strain,  and  use. 


70  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

The  beans,  carrots,  turnips,  and  leeks  may  be  mashed 
through  a  colander  and  served  in  puree. 

Another. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular,  with 
the  exception  that  instead  of  using  beans,  you  use  peas, 
lentils,  chestnuts,  or  samp.  Peas  and  lentils  are  soaked  in 
water  only  for  four  or  five  hours.  Chestnuts  must  be 
shelled.  Some  other  vegetables  may  be  added,  according 
to  taste,  and  also  according  to  the  nature  of  the  vegetables. 

Another. — Clean  and  put  in  a  bowl  a  head  of  lettuce, 
a  handful  of  sorrel,  same  of  chervil,  same  of  purslane,  and 
all  chopped  fine ;  pour  over  nearly  a  quart  of  boiling  wa- 
ter, add  two  ounces  of  butter,  cover  the  bowl  with  a  wet 
towel ;  leave  thus  half  an  hour,  and  strain. 

When  cold  it  makes  a  very  refreshing  drink,  and  is 
taken  morning  and  evening  with  salt,  to  taste. 

It  may  also  be  taken  warm. 

A  la  Minute,  or  made  quickly. — Cut  four  ounces  of  fat 
salt  pork  in  dice  and  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan ;  stir, 
and  when  it  is  turning  rather  brown  add  one  onion  chop- 
ped, and  half  a  middling-sized  carrot,  sliced ;  stir,  and  when 
they  are  partly  fried,  add  also  two  pounds  of  lean  beef 
cut  in  small  dice;  stir  and  fry  for  five  minutes.  Then 
pour  in  it  about  three  pints  of  boiling  water,  salt,  boil 
gently  about  forty  minutes.  Strain,  and  use. 

The  beef  may  be  served  with  the  broth,  or  separately 
as  an  entree,  with  a  piquante,  ravigote,  or  Robert  sauce. 

Bisque  of  Lobster. — Boil  one  or  several  lobsters  as 
directed,  and  when  cold  split  the  tail  in  two,  lengthwise, 
take  the  flesh  out  of  the  shell,  remove  the  black  vein  that 
is  on  the  back,  take  out  the  meat  of  the  two  large  claws, 
and  keep  the  flesh  of  the  claws  and  tail  for  the  following 
day's  breakfast. 

For  a  bisque,  nothing  is  thrown  away  but  the  head, 


POT  AGES   OB   SOUPS.  71 

stomach,  and  black  vein.  The  head  is  the  part  immedi- 
ately under  the  eyes ;  the  stomach  is  a  small,  round  pouch 
immediately  behind  the  head  ;  and  the  vein  runs  from  the 
stomach  to  the  end  of  the  tail. 

Put  all  the  rest,  shell,  small  claws,  all  the  matter  found 
in  the  large  shell  (green,  white,  or  yellow),  in  a  mortar  and 
pound  well.  Then  put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted, 
put  what  is  in  the  mortar  in,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  for 
about  ten  minutes,  then  add  one  pint  of  warm  broth,  stir 
for  about  twenty  minutes,  and  strain.  Put  the  liquor  back 
on  the  fire  with  about  four  ounces  of  toasted  bread,  boil 
five  minutes,  and  mash  through  a  colander.  Put  the 
liquor  back  again  on  the  fire,  add  one  quart  of  broth,  boil 
gently  ten  minutes,  and  turn  into  the  soup-dish. 

"While  it  is  boiling,  chop  fine  the  coral-piece  of  the  lob- 
ster or  lobsters,  knead  it  with  a  piece  of  butter  of  about  the 
same  bulk,  then  rub  both  through  a  wire  sieve ;  put  them 
in  the  soup-dish  with  croutons  and  about  two  or  three 
ounces  of  the  flesh  of  the  lobster  cut  in  very  small  dice. 
Turn  the  broth  into  the  soup-dish  also,  and  as  directed 
above,  and  serve  warm. 

When  there  is  no  coral  in  the  lobster  or  lobsters, 
knead  a  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg  with  butter  in  its  stead. 

Use  one,  two,  three,  or  more  lobsters,  according  to  how 
much  soup  is  wanted.  It  is  not  costly,  because  the  flesh, 
or  most  of  it,  is  kept  to  make  a  salad  the  next  day,  for 
breakfast  or  lunch. 

The  salad  might  be  served  the  same  day  at  dinner,  but 
lobster  is  a  rather  heavy  food,  and  it  is  more  prudent  not 
to  eat  any  late  in  the  day. 

Bisque  of  Lobster  it  la  Colbert. — Make  a  bisque  as  above, 
and  while  it  is  on  the  fire,  poach  as  directed  as  many  egga 


72  POTAGES   OB  SOUPS. 

as  there  will  be  persons  at  dinner ;  put  them  in  the  soup- 
dish  instead  of  croutons,  and  serve  as  above. 

Of  Crabs. — Proceed  as  for  a  bisque  of  lobster  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  use  hard-shell  crabs  instead  of 
lobster. 

The  same  a  la  Colbert. — Add  to  the  above  as  many 
poached  eggs  as  you  have  guests. 

Of  Craw-fish  (Bisque  tfJEcrevisses). — Our  readers  who 
have  been  in  Europe  will  certainly  remember  the  name  of 
one  of  the  best  soups  that  can  be  made.  It  is  made  of 
craw-fish  the  same  as  with  lobster,  and  is  certainly  more 
delicate  than  a  Usque  of  lobster  or  of  crabs.  (See  CRAW- 
FISH for  other  particulars.) 

A  bisque  of  craw-fish  may  also  be  served  a  la  Colbert 
the  same  as  a  bisque  of  lobster. 

JBouillabaisse. — The  real  bouillabaisse  is  made  in  Mar- 
seilles ;  they  make  an  imitation  of  it  in  Bordeaux,  and 
in  many  other  parts  of  France  and  the  Continent ;  but,  like 
a  Welsh  rarebit  prepared  out  of  Wales,  it  is  very  inferior 
to  the  real  one.  However,  we  will  give  the  receipt  to 
make  it  here,  and  as  good  as  possible  with  the  fish  that 
can  be  procured. 

Put  a  gill  of  sweet-oil  in  a  tin  saucepan  and  set  it  on 
a  sharp  fire ;  when  hot,  add  two  onions  and  two  cloves  of 
garlic  sliced ;  stir  so  as  to  partly  fry  them,  and  then  take 
from  the  fire.  Put  also  in  the  pan  three  pounds  of  fish, 
such  as  haddock,  halibut,  turbot,  white-fish — of  all  if  possi- 
ble, but  at  least  of  two  kinds ;  also  a  dozen  muscles,  just 
blanched  and  taken  from  the  shell  (some  put  them  whole, 
properly  cleaned).  The  fish  is  cut  in  pieces  about  two 
inches  long.  Then  add  one  gill  of  Catawba  or  Sauterne 
wine,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  two  slices  of  lemon,  the  juice 
of  a  tomato,  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  saffron,  cover  with 


POTAGE8   OB   SOUPS.  73 

cold  water,  and  set  the  pan  back  on  a  brisk  fire.  After 
about  thirty  minutes  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley ;  boil  ten  minutes  longer,  and  it  is  done. 

The  pieces  of  fish  are  then  placed  on  a  dish  and 
served. 

Put  in  a  deep  dish,  and  to  be  served  at  the  same  time, 
some  slices  of  bread,  over  which  you  turn  the  sauce 
through  a  strainer. 

One  slice  of  bread  and  one  piece  of  fish  is  served  to 
each  person,  also  some  sauce. 

It  is  put  in  two  different  dishes,  to  avoid  breaking 
the  pieces  of  fish. 

There  are  over  a  hundred  ways  of  making  a  bouilla- 
baisse ;  the  above  is  one  of  the  best. 

There  are  also  about  as  many  ways  of  spelling  the 
same. 

A  bouillabaisse  is  served  as  a  soup. 

POTAGES. 

A  la  Colbert. — Scrape  carrots  and  turnips  and  cut 
them  in  small  dice  or  with  a  vegetable  spoon ;  add 
green  peas  and  string-beans,  if  handy,  the  beans  cut  in 
pieces ;  set  them  on  the  fire  in  a  pan  with  cold  water  and 
salt ;  boil  gently  till  done,  and  drain.  Put  them  back  on 
the  fire,  covered  with  warm  broth,  salt  to  taste,  boil  gentl} 
about  two  or  three  minutes,  and  turn  into  the  soup-dish,  in 
which  you  have  put  as  many  poached  eggs  as  there  are 
or  will  be  persons  at  table.  A  poached  egg  with  soup  is 
served  to  every  person.  Proportions  of  broth  and  vege- 
tables according  to  taste. 

Julienne. — Scrape  two  carrots  and  two  turnips  and  cut 
them  in  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half  long ;  cut  slices 
lengthwise  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  then  cut 
4 


74:  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

again  across,  so  as  to  make  square  strips.  Put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  about  two  ounces  of  butter,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cabbage  chopped  fine,  and  half  a  middling- 
sized  onion,  also  chopped;  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  till 
about  half  fried.  Add  broth  to  make  it  as  you  wish,  thin 
or  thick  ;  boil  gently  till  done  ;  salt  to  taste,  skim  off  the 
fat,  and  serve.  It  takes  about  two  hours. 

Julienne  with  Rice. — Boil  two  ounces  of  rice  in  water 
and  a  little  salt,  till  about  three-quarters  done ;  drain  and 
put  in  the  julienne  after  having  added  the  broth ;  finish  as 
above. 

Julienne  with  Barley. — Boil  barley  till  done ;  add  it 
to  the  julienne  at  the  same  time  the  broth  is  added,  and 
serve  as  the  above. 

Julienne  aux  Croutons. — Put  some  croutons  in  the 
soup-dish,  and  when  the  julienne  is  done,  pour  it  over 
them,  and  serve. 

Brunoise. — Put  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  and  when  melted,  add  one  carrot,  one  turnip,  a 
little  celery,  all  cut  in  dice ;  stir  till  they  turn  yellow,  then 
add  about  a  quart  of  broth,  a  middling-sized  leek  cut  in 
pieces,  a  few  leaves  of  lettuce  and  of  sorrel,  if  handy,  and 
a  pinch  of  sugar.  Simmer  about  two  hours  ;  skim  off  the 
fat ;  add  a  few  drops  of  burnt  sugar  to  color. 

Have  croutons  in  the  soup-dish,  turn  the  potage  over 
them,  and  serve. 

Brunoise  with  JRice. — Proceed  as  above,  except  that 
you  add  from  two  to  four  ounces  of  boiled  rice  to  the 
potage  ten  minutes  before  taking  from  the  fire.  Serve 
without  croutons. 

Another. — Use  boiled  barley  instead  of  boiled  rice. 

A  la  Monaco. — Put  some  thin  slices  of  stale  bread  in 
the  soup-dish,  sprinkle  pulverized  sugar  and  orange-rind 


POTAGES   OK   SOUPS.  75 

grated  all  over.  Pour  boiling  milk  over  ;  cover  the  dish 
for  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

A  la  Regence. — Put  about  two  dozen  quenelles  made 
with  chicken  into  the  soup-dish  with  half  a  pint  of  boiled 
green  peas ;  turn  boiling  consomme  over,  and  serve  warm. 

A  la  Royale. — Make  a  custard  with  a  dozen  yolks  of 
eggs,  about  the  same  volume  of  good  cream,  season  with 
sugar,  salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg ;  cook,  and  when  perfectly 
cold,  cut  it  in  slices  and  again  cut  in  fancy  shapes  with 
paste-cutters  or  with  a  knife ;  place  it  in  the  soup-dish, 
pour  boiling  consomme  gently  over,  and  serve  warm. 

Potage  Printanier  (called  also  Jardiniere  and  a  la 
Paysanne). — It  is  a  potage  julienne,  to  which  is  added  the 
top  or  eatable  part  of  six  asparagus,  six  turnip-rooted  red 
radishes,  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  green  peas. 
They  are  fried,  boiled,  and  served  with  the  other  vege- 
tables. 

Veloute. — Put  yolks  of  eggs  in  the  soup-dish  and  beat 
them  a  little  with  cold  or  lukewarm  broth ;  then  pour 
boiling  broth  over  them,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while, 
and  serve  warm. 

It  is  made  thin  or  thick,  according  to  taste. 

With  Arrow-root. — Set  broth  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire, 
and  as  soon  as  it  boils,  sprinkle  some  arrow-root  into  it, 
stirring  the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  boil  gently  for 
about  half  an  hour,  stirring  now  and  then  the  while,  and 
serve  warm,  adding  salt  to  taste. 

Milk  or  consomme  may  be  used  instead  of  broth. 

If  you  use  milk,  add  a  very  little  salt  and  sugar,  to  taste. 

The  proportion  of  arrow-root  to  a  certain  quantity  of 
Droth  is  according  to  taste ;  it  can  be  made  thick  or  thin. 

With  Corn-starch. — Proceed  as  for  arrow-root. 

With  Bread. — This  is  the  simplest  of  all.     Dry  some 


76  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS 

slices  of  bread,  either  stale  or  fresh,  in  the  oven,  place  them 
in  the  soup- dish,  pour  boiling  broth  over  them,  cover  the 
dish  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

With  Fecula. — Proceed  as  for  arrow-root.  Being 
finer,  it  does  not  require  more  than  about  twelve  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

With  Barley. — Wash  the  barley  in  cold  water,  then 
drop  it  in  boiling  broth,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while ; 
when  in,  keep  simmering  till  perfectly  done,  which  you 
ascertain  easily  by  tasting ;  add  then  salt  to  taste,  a  pinch 
of  sugar,  and  serve  warm. 

It  must  be  stirred  occasionally  while  on  the  fire. 

With  Gruel  (French  Gruau). — It  is  made  as  with 
arrow-root. 

With  Indian  Meal. — Proceed  as  with  arrow-root. 

With  Sago. — Sago  must  be  boiled  gently  about  an 
hour;  but  for  the  rest,  proceed  as  with  arrow-root  in  every 
particular. 

With  Semoule. — With  semoule  it  is  the  same  as  with 
arrow-root,  except  that  it  is  boiled  only  about  fifteen 
minutes. 

With  Tapioca. — Tapioca  is  prepared  like  arrow-root, 
but  must  be  boiled  about  forty-five  minutes. 

All  the  above,  like  arrow-root,  may  be  prepared  with 
consomme,  or  with  milk,  as  well  as  with  broth. 

With  Giblets. — Throw  the  giblets  in  boiling  water  and 
a  little  salt,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  take  off  and  drain.  Drop 
them  in  broth,  boil  gently  till  done,  and  turn  the  whole 
into  the  soup  dish,  in  which  you  have  some  leeks,  boiled 
wid  cut  in  pieces.  Serve  warm. 

Some  croutons  may  be  added,  and  chervil  chopped  fine, 
just  before  turning  into  the  soup-dish ;  or  they  may  be 
placed  in  the  soup-dish  before  pouring  in  the  broth. 


POTAGES   OB   SOUPS.  77 

With  Mackerel. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  in  pieces 
about  one  inch  and  a  half  long,  a  mackerel  weighing 
about  one  pound  and  a  half;  fry  it  with  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter  till  it  turns  rather  brown,  then  cover  with  nearly  a 
quart  of  water ;  add  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  same  of  turnip, 
a  small  onion,  two  or  three  stalks  of  parsley,  salt,  pepper, 
a  clove  of  garlic,  and  a  stalk  of  celery  if  handy ;  boil 
slowly  for  about  an  hour ;  mash  gently  through  a  colander, 
put  what  has  passed  through  the  colander  back  on  the  fire, 
add  a  little  butter,  give  one  more  boil,  turn  into  the  soup 
dish  over  croutons,  and  serve. 

With  new  Carrots. — Take  small,  young  carrots,  clean 
and  wash  them,  then  blanch  them  for  about  five  minutes. 
Set  them  on  the  fire,  cover  with  broth  or  consomme;  boil 
gently  till  done,  and  serve. 

Another. — With  carrots  and  peas.  Proceed  as  above 
till  the  carrots  are  half  done,  then  add  blanched  green 
peas;  finish  the  cooking,  and  serve. 

Another. — Make  as  the  above,  but  using  one  or  two 
heads  of  cabbage-lettuce,  blanched  for  two  minutes,  in- 
stead of  green  peas. 

Fancy  Potage. — Take  twelve  very  small  rolls ;  cut  off 
one  end  and  remove  all  the  soft  part  of  it ;  fill  them  with 
quenelles  of  chicken ;  replace  the  piece  cut  off  as  well  as 
possible ;  place  them  in  the  soup-dish ;  pour  boiling  con- 
somme or  good  broth  over  them  ;  cover  the  dish  for  ten 
minutes,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Vermicelli. — Drop  the  vermicelli  in  boiling  water, 
and  in  which  you  have  put  a  little  salt ;  boil  ten  minutes, 
drain,  drop  again  in  cold  water,  drain  again  and  put  it  in 
boiling  broth ;  boil  ten  minutes ;  add  salt  to  taste,  and  serve. 

With  Macaroni. — Proceed  as  for  vermicelli  in  every 
particular,  except  that  it  takes  twice  as  long  to  cook. 


78  POTAGES   OR  SOUPS. 

With  Macaroni  and  Cheese. — Proceed  as  for  the  above, 
and  when  done,  put  grated  cheese  in  the  scup-dish,  turn 
the  macaroni  over  it,  and  serve. 

With  Italian  Pastes. — No  matter  of  what  shape  are  the 
pastes,  proceed  as  for  vermicelli ;  the  only  difference  is  in 
the  time  of  cooking,  which  depends  on  the  size. 

Consomme  may  be  used  instead  of  broth.  If  milk  is 
used,  sugar  must  be  added. 

With  Macaroni  a  la  Corinne. — Set  two  quarts  of  cold 
water  on  the  fire,  with  an  ounce  of  salt,  and  two  ounces  of 
butter ;  at  the  first  boil,  drop  into  it  four  ounces  of  maca- 
roni ;  boil  five  minutes,  and  drain.  Immediately  drop  the 
macaroni  in  boiling  consomme,  and  boil  gently  till  done. 
Drain  it  again  and  place  a  layer  of  it  in  the  soup-dish,  over 
the  macaroni ;  place  a  thin  layer  of  Parmesan  cheese  grated ; 
then  a  layer  of  macedoine  of  vegetables ;  then  again,  a 
layer  of  macaroni,  one  of  cheese,  etc.;  pour  consomme  to 
taste  on  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Macaroni  a  la  Medici  (also  called  a  la  Napoli- 
taine). — Proceed  as  for  macaroni  a  la  Corinne  in  every 
particular,  with  the  exception  that  you  put  also  in  the 
soup-dish  a  layer  of  quenelles  of  chicken  over  that  of 
macedoine  of  vegetables,  and  serve  in  the  same  way. 

The  quenelles  are  boiled  till  done,  in  broth  in  which 
you  put  a  few  sprigs  of  mignonette. 

Another. — Add  to  the  above  about  a  gill  of  thick  to- 
mato-sauce, just  before  pouring  the  consomme  over  the 
macaroni,  etc. 

Macaroni  a  la  JRomulus. — Prepare  eight  ounces  of 
macaroni  as  directed  for  macaroni  a  la  Corinne  ;  place  a 
ayer  of  it  in  the  soup-dish;  then  over  it  a  layer  of  que- 
nelles of  chicken  ;  over  the  quenelles,  a  thin  layer  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese ;  then  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  salt  beef 


POTAGES  OE   SOUPS.  79 

tongue,  boiled  and  skimmed ;  over  the  latter  a  layer  of 
sweetbreads  boiled  in  broth  and  cut  in  thin  slices  also ; 
and  lastly  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  boiled  flounders.  Sev- 
eral layers  of  each  of  the  above  may  be  placed  in  the  soup 
dish,  in  the  same  order ;  then  boiling  consomme  is  poured 
over  the  whole ;  the  dish  is  covered,  put  in  a  warm  place 
for  ten  minutes,  and  served. 

Although  this  dish  is  a  regular  potage,  and  served  a? 
such,  still  many  Italians  make  a  meal  of  it. 

With  Macaroni  a  la  Rossini. — Proceed  as  for  maca- 
roni a  la  Corinne  above,  with  two  exceptions :  first,  that 
you  add  a  layer  of  quenelles  of  partridge ;  and  second,  that 
you  use  consomme  of  partridge. 

With  Macaroni  a  la  St.  Pierre. — Proceed  also  as  for 
potage  macaroni  a  la  Corinne  as  far  as  placing  a  layer  of 
macaroni  in  the  soup-dish ;  then  put  over  it  a  layer  of 
boiled  soft  roe  of  fish ;  over  which  put  a  thin  layer  of 
grated  Parmesan  cheese ;  then  a  layer  of  quenelles  of  fish ; 
another  layer  of  macaroni ;  over  it,  a  layer  of  boiled  thin 
slices  of  salmon ;  macaroni  again,  etc.  Pour  boiling  con- 
somme over  the  whole,  and  serve. 

Although  bearing  the  name  of  Saint  Pierre  (St.  Peter), 
the  above  dish  has  not  been  devised  by  the  saint ;  but,  like 
all  the  above,  save  that  a  la  Corinne,  it  has  been  invent- 
ed by  monks. 

With  Nouilles. — Set  broth  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan, 
and  at  the  first  boiling  take  the  nouilles  from  the  water 
with  a  skimmer  and  put  in  the  broth,  stir  occasionally  and 
boil  gently  till  done.  The  proportions  are  according  to 
taste.  The  more  broth  used  for  a  certain  quantity  of 
nouilles  the  thinner  the  soup  will  be,  and  vice  versa.  Salt 
to  taste,  and  serve. 

With  Potatoes. — Cut  about  half  a  pint  of  potatoes  with 


80  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

a  vegetable  spoon  (it  is  understood  half  a  pint  when  eat, 
the  rest  being  used  to  make  mashed  potatoes),  and  blanch 
them  for  three  minutes,  drain  and  put  them  in  boiling 
broth;  boil  gently  till  about  half  done,  add  then  two  01 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  green  peas;  finish  the  cooking; 
and  just  before  serving  add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  salt  to  taste, 
turn  into  the  soup-dish,  and  serve  with  or  without  crou- 
tons. 

With  Quenelles. — Drop  quenelles  in  broth ;  boil  gently 
till  done,  and  serve. 

The  proportion  according  to  taste.  Half  a  dozen 
quenelles  for  each  person,  and  about  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
make  a  good  proportion. 

With  Rice. — Put  boiled  rice  in  the  soup-dish,  turn 
boiling  broth  over  it,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Turnips. — When  clean,  cut  the  turnips  in  slices, 
drop  them  in  boiling  water,  add  a  little  salt,  boil  for  five 
minutes,  and  drain.  Set  them  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  them  with  milk,  and  boil  gently  till  done.  Mash 
them  through  a  colander,  put  them  back  on  the  fire  with 
milk,  butter,  a  little  sugar  and  salt ;  stir  and  boil  gently  a 
few  minutes;  then  add  a  yolk  of  egg  for  two  turnips,  stir 
in  also  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cream ;  stir,  but  do 
not  boil ;  put  some  croutons  in  the  soup-dish,  turn  the  tur- 
nips over,  and  serve. 

Puree  of  Split  Peas. — The  proportions  vary  according 
to  taste ;  the  more  peas  that  are  used  with  a  certain  quan- 
tity of  broth,  the  thicker  the  potage  will  be,  and  vice  versa. 

Soak  one  pint  of  split  peas  in  cold  water  over  night 
and  drain.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  few  slices  of 
carrot,  same  of  turnip,  same  of  onion  and  salt.  Cover  with 
cold  water,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  till  done.  Drain,  and 
then  mash  through  a  colander.  Put  back  on  the  fire  with 


POTAGE8   OR   SOUPS.  81 

warm  broth  to  taste — that  is,  to  make  the  potage  thin  or 
thick,  season  with  salt  or  pepper ;  boil  gently  for  five  min- 
utes, stirring  the  while ;  turn  into  the  soup-dish  over  crou- 
tons, and  serve  warm.  It  may  be  served  without  crow- 
fons. 

Puree  of  Green  Peas. — It  is  sometimes  called  a  la  Chan- 
tilly,  or  a  la  Francaise.  Put  cold  water  and  a  little  salt  on 
the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boiling  throw  the  peas  in ;  if  they 
are  very  tender,  leave  them  in  only  a  few  seconds ;  if  large 
and  rather  hard,  boil  one  or  two  minutes;  drain,  masb 
them  through  a  colander,  and  finish  as  the  above. 

Puree  of  Dry  Beans. — White  and  dry  beans  have  several 
names,  but  no  matter  what  kind,  they  are  prepared  alike. 
If  you  are  not  sure  that  the  beans  are  new,  soak  them  in 
cold  water  for  about  twenty-four  hours,  and  drain.  Cook, 
mash,  and  serve  them  the  same  as  split  peas. 

Puree  of  Lentils. — Wash  the  lentils  in  cold  water  and 
proceed  as  for  split  peas  for  the  rest 

Puree  of  Peas. — Proceed  as  for  split  peas. 

With  Lima  Beans. — Proceed  as  with  green  peas. 
With  Potatoes. — Steam  potatoes,  then  peel  and  mash 
them  through  a  colander.  Put  them  back  on  the  fire  with 
broth,  butter,  and  salt  to  taste ;  stir,  boil  a  few  minutes, 
and  serve  with  croutons.  Water  or  milk  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  broth. 

With  Pumpkins. — Peel,  take  away  the  seed  and  cut 
the  pumpkin  in  small  pieces ;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
water  just  enough  to  cover  them,  a  little  salt  and  white 
pepper,  set  on  the  fire  and  take  off  when  cooked ;  throw 
away  the  water,  mash  and  strain  the  pumpkin,  put  it  back 
in  the  stewpan,  cover  with  milk,  add  a  little  sugar,  set  it 
again  on  the  fire,  and  take  off  at  the  first  boiling;  pour  a 
little  of  it  on  croutons  in  the  soup-dish,  and  keep  covered 
4* 


82  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

in  a  warm  place  for  ten  minutes ;  then  pour  also  the  re- 
mainder in,  and  serve. 

Another. — Prepare  as  above,  throw  the  pieces  in  boil- 
ing water  with  a  little  salt  for  five  minutes,  mash  and 
drain ;  put  butter  in  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when 
melted  put  the  pumpkin  in,  stir  about  five  minutes ;  have 
ready  in  your  soup-dish  some  slices  of  bread  fried  in  but- 
ter, and  dusted  with  sugar,  pour  on  them  some  boiling 
milk,  keep  covered  in  a  warm  place  two  or  three  minutes ; 
then  turn  the  pumpkin  on,  at  the  same  time  mixing  the 
whole  gently,  and  serve. 

With  Squash. — It  is  made  as  with  pumpkin. 

With  Asparagus. — Proceed  as  for  green  peas. 

With  Jerusalem  Artichokes. — Tt  is  made  like  that  of 
potatoes. 

With  Carrots. — When  made  with  young  carrots,  it  is 
called  potage  puree  Crecy,  or  a  la  Crecy.  Add  broth  to 
taste  to  a  puree  of  carrots,  turn  into  the  soup-dish  over 
croutons,  and  serve. 

With  colored  Beans. — When  made  with  colored  beans, 
it  is  called  a  la  Conde.  Proceed  as  with  beans. 

The  Prince  of  Conde  devised  this  potage,  and  besides 
cooking  the  beans  in  broth,  he  used  to  put  in  one  or  two 
partridges  also,  to  give,  as  he  used  to  say,  "  a  good  taste 
to  the  beans." 

With  Cauliflowers. — Make  a  puree  of  cauliflowers,  to 
which  you  add  broth  to  taste,  and  serve  with  croutons. 

With  Chestnuts. — Add  broth  and  croutons  to  a  puree 
of  chestnuts,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Turnips. — It  is  made  as  with  carrots. 

With  Wheat. — Cut  ears  of  wheat  when  full,  but  not 
ripe,  and  put  them  away  to  dry.  Shell  the  wheat ;  wash 
it  in  cold  water,  put  it  in  a  saucepan,  cover  it  with  broth 


rOTAGES   OB   SOUPS.  83 

and  boil  gently  till  done.  Hash  through  a  colander,  put 
back  on  the  fire  with  a  little  butter;  add  broth  if  too 
thick,  stir  now  and  then  for  about  fifteen  minutes ;  take 
from  the  fire,  add  two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  with 
a  little  cream  and  a  pinch  of  sugar;  mix  them  well  with 
the  rest,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Sweet  Corn. — Proceed  as  with  wheat  in  every 
particular.  It  makes  a  healthy  and  excellent  potage. 

Water  may  be  used  instead  of  broth,  but  it  is  not  as 
nutritive. 

With  Swallows1  Nests ,  or  Chinese  Soup. — The  nests 
are  made  a  mucilaginous  substance  of,  and  built  by  the 
species  of  swallows  called  Hirundo  esculenta ;  it  would 
require  several  pages  to  describe  them,  together  with  their 
compound  material,  and  would  be  out  of  place  in  a  receipt 
book.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  they  sell  for  $100  a  pound 
in  London  and  Paris  (gold  of  course),  and  the  cheapest  pot- 
age  for  one  person  costs  about  three  dollars. 

Soak  about  four  ounces  of  it  in  cold  water  for  ten 
hours,  drain  and  clean.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan,  cover  well 
with  chicken-broth,  place  the  saucepan  in  boiling  water  for 
about  two  hours,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  then  drain  again. 
Place  the  nests  in  the  soup-dish,  pour  boiling  consomme 
over  them,  and  serve  warm. 

The  Chinese  are  said  to  use  very  rich  consomme  of 
chicken  to  prepare  them. 

With  Tomatoes  and  Rice. — Blanch  half  a  dozen  to- 
matoes, and  skin  them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
quart  of  broth,  season  with  an  onion  sliced,  three  or  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  half  a  dozen  pepper-corns, 
a  bay -leaf,  two  cloves,  two  cloves  of  garlic ;  salt  and  pep- 
per. Boil  gently  till  reduced  to  about  two-thirds,  when 
mash  gently  through  a  colander.  It  is  understood  by  mash- 


84  POTAGES   OB   SOUPS. 

ing  gently,  to  mash  so  that  all  the  liquid  part  shall  pass 
through  the  colander,  and  the  seeds  and  spices  shall  be 
retained  in  it  and  thrown  away. 

While  the  tomatoes  are  on  the  fire  boiling,  set  four 
ounces  of  rice  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and  salt,  and  boil 
it  till  tender.  Drain  the  rice,  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  the 
tomato-juice  after  being  mashed,  set  the  saucepan  on  the 
fire,  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  both 
according  to  taste ;  to  make  the  potage  thin  or  thick,  boil 
gently  fifteen  minutes,  turn  into  the  soup-dish,  and  serve 
warm. 

The  same  may  be  done  with  canned  tomatoes ;  in  that 
case,  set  a  can  of  tomatoes  on  the  fire  with  the  same  sea- 
sonings, and  proceed  exactly  as  for  the  above  in  every  other 
particular. 

The  same  with  Croutons. — Fry  some  croutons  with  a 
little  butter,  put  them  in  the  soup-dish ;  turn  the  potage,  or 
rather  the  same  mixture  as  above,  over  them ;  cover  the 
soup-dish  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

With  Tomatoes  and  Croutons  only. — Fry  the  croutons 
and  put  them  in  the  soup-dish ;  turn  the  tomatoes  only 
over  them,  after  being  prepared  as  above ;  cover  the  soup- 
dish  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve. 

Puree  a  la  Heine. — Procure  a  rather  old  chicken  and 
cut  it  in  pieces  as  for  fricassee  ;  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  about  a  quart  of  cold  water,  salt,  and  boil  gently 
about  one  hour.  Then  add  about  four  ounces  of  rice, 
washed  in  cold  water,  continue  boiling  until  the  chicken  is 
overdone  and  tender.  Take  the  pieces  of  chicken  from 
the  pan,  scrape  the  flesh  off"  the  bones ;  cut  the  white 
flesh  (the  flesh  that  is  on  both  sides  of  the  breast-bone) 
in  dice,  and  put  it  in  the  soup-dish;  chop  fine  all  the 
other  flesh,  and  then  mash  it  through  a  sieve  or  strainer, 


POTAGES   OB   SOUPS.  85 

together  with  the  rice.  If  it  be  rather  too  thick  to  mash 
through,  moisten  it  with  broth.  A  large  iron  spoon  is  the 
best  utensil  to  mash  through  with.  Then  set  the  rice  and 
flesh  back  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  broth  to  taste, 
stir  and  add  immediately  from  two  to  four  ounces  of  but- 
ter, a  gill  of  cream,  or,  if  not  handy,  a  gill  of  milk. 
Keep  stirring  on  a  slow  fire  for  five  or  six  minutes ;  salt  to 
taste,  turn  into  the  soup-dish,  and  serve. 

There  is  no  danger  of  curdling  if  kept  on  a  slow  fire 
and  not  allowed  to  boil. 

The  same  with  Broth. — To  make  the  potage  richer, 
cook  the  chicken  and  rice  in  broth  instead  of  water,  and 
proceed  as  above  for  the  rest. 

The  same  with  consomme. — The  chicken  and  rice  may 
also  be  cooked  in  consomme,  and  when  mashed  through 
the  sieve,  add  consomme  also  instead  of  broth,  and  you 
have  an  exceedingly  rich  soup.  This  is  excellent  for  per- 
sons having  throat  diseases ;  it  is  easily  swallowed,  and 
very  nutritious. 

The  same  a  la  Francaise.—likQ  potage  puree  a  la 
francaise  is  the  same  as  that  a  la  reine,  with  the  addition 
of  quenelles  of  chicken. 

The  same  a  la  Princesse. — Add  to  that  a  la  reine,  the 
white  flesh  of  a  roasted  chicken,  cut  in  dice,  and  put  in  the 
soup-dish. 

Puree  of  Game. — Proceed  as  for  potage  puree  a  la 
reine,  with  the  exception  that  you  use  prairie-hen,  instead 
of  chicken. 

SOUPS. 

Jfaigre,  or  Vegetable  Soup. — Proceed  as  for  julienne 
in  every  particular,  except  that  water  is  used  instead  of 
broth.  Four  ounces  of  butter  may  be  used  instead  of 
two. 


86  POT  AGES   OR   SOUPS. 

Beef  and  Mutton  Soup. — Take  three  pounds  of  beef 
and  two  pounds  of  breast  of  mutton ;  put  both  pieces  in 
a  crockery  kettle  with  four  quarts  of  cold  water,  salt,  and 
pepper,  set  on  a  slow  fire  ;  skim  carefully,  then  add  half  a 
carrot,  two  turnips,  two  onions  with  one  clove  stuck  in 
each,  two  stalks  of  celery,  two  leeks,  one  sprig  of  parsley, 
and  one  clove  of  garlic.  Simmer  four  or  five  hours ;  dish 
the  meat  with  carrots,  turnips,  and  leeks  around,  to  be 
served  after  the  soup  if  you  choose ;  strain  the  broth, 
skim  the  fat  off,  put  back  on  the  fire,  give  one  boil ;  have 
croutons  in  the  soup-dish,  pour  over  them,  and  serve. 

Mock  Turtle. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  set  it  on  the  fire,  when  melted,  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  stir,  and  when  turning  brown,  add  three  pints  of 
broth  (either  beef-broth  or  broth  made  by  boiling  a  calf's 
head,  according  to  taste) ;  boil  five  minutes  then  add  a 
liquor  glass  of  brandy  or  rum,  from  one  to  three  glasses 
of  Madeira,  Port,  or  Sherry  wine,  about  four  ounces  of 
calf  Vhead  (the  skin  only)  cut  in  dice,  mushrooms  or 
truffles,  or  both,  also  cut  in  dice ;  boil  five  minutes. 
While  it  is  boiling,  cut  two  hard-boiled  eggs  and  half  a 
lemon  in  dice  and  put  them  in  the  soup-dish;  turn  the 
broth  over,  and  serve. 

Made  with  beef  broth  it  is  certainly  richer  than  when 
made  with  calf 's-head  broth,  the  latter  is  gelatinous  but 
ess  nourishing  than  the  former. 

Mock  Turtle  with  consomme. — Use  consomme  instead 
of  broth,  and  you  have  as  rich  a  soup  as  can  be  made. 

Mock  turtle  is  an  English  soup,  very  rich  and  very 
good. 

Au  Chasseur  (Hunter's  or  Sportsman's  Soup). — A 
potage  au  chasseur  is  always  made  with  game,  such  as 
rabbit,  prairie-hen,  grouse,  venison,  wild  turkey,  wild 


POT  AGES   OE   SODI«S.  87 

pigeon,  etc.,  but  never  with  aquatic  birds.  It  might  be 
made  with  quail,  but  that  bird  is  really  too  delicate  to 
make  soup  with.  A  whole  bird  or  animal  is  never  used, 
but  the  bones  and  trimmings  only.  After  having  cut  off 
the  fleshy  parts,  the  bones  are  cracked  and  used  to  make 
the  potage. 

Take  the  bones  of  two  prairie-hens  after  having  cut  off 
the  flesh  on  both  sides  of  the  breast-bone,  also  the  legs ; 
cut  the  bones  in  pieces  about  half  an  inch  long  and  set 
them  on  the  tire  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  stir  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  cover  with  broth,  or  game  broth,  and 
boil  gently  till  well  cooked,  or  about  two  hours. 

Put  in  another  pan,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  at  the  same 
time  as  the  above,  half  a  head  of  cabbage,  one  carrot,  one 
turnip,  and  one  onion,  all  cut  fine ;  about  half  a  pound  of 
lean  salt  pork ;  cover  with  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  for 
about  two  hours  also. 

In  case  the  water  or  broth  should  boil  away,  add  a 
little  more. 

After  having  boiled  both  vegetables  and  bones  about 
two  hours,  take  off  the  salt  pork  from  the  pan  in  which 
the  vegetables  are,  and  turn  what  you  have  in  the  other 
pan  over  the  vegetables,  through  a  strainer ;  add  some 
broth  if  it  is  too  thick ;  boil  ten  minutes,  and  serve. 

Proceed  as  above  with  the  bones  and  trimmings  of 
other  birds. 

Turtle  or  Terrapin.^- Out  the  turtle  in  dice,  throw 
it  in  boiling  water  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and 
drain ;  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  onions  and  ham,  also  cut 
in  dice  ;  season  with  thyme,  parsley,  bay-leaf,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  wine-glass  of  Madeira  wine  or  of  good  brandy ; 
wet  with  Eapagnole  sauce  or  with  consomme,  set  on  a  good 
fire,  boil  about  half  an  hour.  Ten  minutes  before  taking 


88  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

from  the  fire,  chop  the  eggs  of  the  turtle,  after  having 
boiled  them,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan ;  if  the  turtle  has 
none,  chop  and  use  hard-boiled  eggs  instead.  When 
done,  throw  away  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  turn  into 
bowls,  add  a  little  chopped  chervil,  and  a  quarter  of  a  rind 
of  lemon,  also  chopped ;  the  latter  is  enough  for  six 
persons.  Serve  warm. 

It  may  be  strained  before  putting  it  in  bowls,  accord- 
ing to  taste. 

Turtle-steaks  are  prepared  like  beef-steaks. 

With  Rice  and  Milk. — Wash  half  a  pound  of  rice  in 
cold  water.  Set  it  on  the  fire  with  about  one  pint  of 
milk,  boil  gently  till  done,  filling  with  more  milk,  so  as  to 
keep  the  rice  always  covered,.  When  cooked,  add  a  little 
butter,  milk  according  to  taste,  sugar  or  salt,  or  both,  and 
serve.  It  will  not  take  more  than  two  quarts  of  milk. 

The  French  name  for  the  above  is  riz  au  la.it. 

With  Okra.— Okra  or  gumbo  is  little  known  here ; 
yet  it  is  good  in  pickles,  used  like  cucumbers.  It  is 
much  used  for  soup  in  the  Southern  States  and  in  the 
West  Indies. 

When  green  and  tender,  cut  it  very  fine,  cook  it  in 
broth,  add  a  few  tomatoes  or  tomato-sauce,  according  to 
taste ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  sugar. 
When  the  tomatoes  are  cooked,  serve  warm. 

If  dry,  make  a  potage  like  that  of  tapioca,  to  which 
you  add  a  little  tomato-sauce  and  pepper. 

With  Onions. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
and  when  melted  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir,  and 
when  turning  rather  yellow  add  also  four  or  five  onions 
sliced,  stir  till  fried,  when  .you  add  broth  to  taste  (about 
one  quart) ;  boil  gently  about  fifteen  minutes ;  mash 
through  a  colander,  put  back  on  the  fire ;  give  one  boil, 


POTAQES   OB   SOUPS.  89 

ealt  and  pepper  to  taste;  turn  into  the  soup-dish,  in  which 
you  have  some  croutons,  and  serve. 

More  or  less  onions  may  be  used,  according  to  taste. 

Ox-Tail. — Chop  the  ox-tail  in  pieces  about  one  inch 
long,  set  them  on  the  fire,  with  about  one  ounce  of  butter, 
stir  till  it  turns  rather  brown,  and  turn  the  fat  off.  Then 
add  broth  to  taste,  boil  slowly  till  the  pieces  of  tail  are  well 
done ;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  when  handy  add  also  three 
or  four  tomatoes  whole ;  boil  gently  about  fifteen  minutes 
longer,  turn  into  the  soup-dish,  and  serve  meat  and  all. 

Some  add  wine  and  liquor,  the  same  as  to  the  mock- 
turtle  soup,  but  this  is  according  to  taste.  The  soup  is 
excellent  served  without  wine  or  liquor. 

When  no  tomatoes  are  used,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
boil  fifteen  minutes  longer,  serve  as  soon  as  done. 

Simple. — Use  water  instead  of  broth;  season  with 
carrot,  turnip,  parsley,  leek,  onions,  cloves,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Serve  as  the  above. 

Ox-cheek. — An  ox-cheek  soup  is  made  the  same  as  an 
ox-tail  soup.  The  broth  is  made  with  ox-cheek  instead  of 
with  otner  parts  of  the  beef,  and  the  potage  or  soup  made 
with  the  broth.  A  little  wine — Madeira,  Port,  or  Sherry — 
is  sometimes  added,  as  for  mock-turtle. 

Sheep* s-tail. — Proceed  as  for  ox-tail  in  every  particu- 
lar. 

Sheep' s-necJc. — Made  the  same  as  ox-cheek  soup. 

Sorrel. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  set 
it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  melted,  put  a  good  handful 
of  sorrel  in,  stir  for  about  one  minute ;  then  add  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water,  salt ;  boil  two  or  three  minutes ;  add 
again  a  little  butter,  give  one  boil  and  turn  into  the  soup- 
dish  in  which  you  have  croutons. 

As  soon  as  taken  from  the  fire,  two,  three,  or  foui 


90  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS 

yolks  of  eggs,  beaten  with  a  tablespooiiful  of  water,  may 
be  added. 

Broth  may  be  used  instead  of  water. 

Oyster. — Put  one  quart  of  oysters  with  their  liquor  in 
a  saucepan,  with  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  set  it  on  a 
good  fire.  Take  from  the  fire  at  the  first  boil,  and  skim 
off  the  scum.  Take  the  oysters  from  the  pan  with  a  skim- 
mer and  put  them  in  the  soup-dish.  By  keeping  the  soup- 
dish  in  a  warm  but  not  hot  place,  the  oysters  will  not 
harden.  Add  to  the  juice  in  the  saucepan  a  gill  of  white 
wine ;  give  one  boil,  and  take  from  the  fire.  Mix  two 
ounces  of  butter  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  in  a  bowl ; 
turn  the  juice  and  wine  into  the  bowl  also,  and  mix  the 
whole  well ;  put  the  mixture  back  in  the  saucepan,  and  set 
it  on  the  fire,  adding  about  half  a  dozen  mushrooms,  two 
or  three  stalks  of  parsley,  and  pepper  to  taste.  Boil  two 
minutes,  turn  over  the  oysters  through  a  strainer,  and 
serve. 

The  mushrooms  may  also  be  turned  into  the  soup-dish. 

Cabbage. — Put  in  a  kettle  with  two  quarts  and  a  half 
of  water  a  pound  of  salted  pork,  same  of  breast  of  mutton; 
also,  if  handy,  the  remains  of  a  roasted  piece ;  set  on  a  slow 
fire ;  skim  before  it  boils,  and  then  boil  for  about  an  hour 
and  a  half;  strain,  to  remove  the  small  bones,  if  any;  put 
back  in  the  kettle  broth  and  meat,  also  one  middling-sized 
cabbage,  which  you  must  have  previously  thrown  in  boil- 
ing water  and  boiled  ten  minutes ;  add  then  two  carrots, 
one  turnip,  two  leeks,  half  a  head  of  celery,  one  onion 
with  a  clove  stuck  in  it,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  about 
half  a  pound  of  sausage  (not  smoked) ;  then  boil  gently 
about  two  hours,  strain  the  broth,  pour  it  on  croutons  in 
the  soup-dish,  and  serve. 

The  pork,  mutton,  and  sausage,   with   the   cabbage 


POTAGE8   OR   SOUPS.  91 

around,  may  be  served  on  a  dish  after  the  soup  at  a  family 
dinner,  or  kept  for  breakfast  the  next  day. 

Cauliflower. — Clean  and  cut  in  small  pieces  three 
middling-sized  cauliflowers.  Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces 
of  butter,  and  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  ;  when  hot  put  the 
cauliflowers  in;  stir  now  and  then  till  it  turns  brown,  then 
add  a  sprig  of  thyme,  same  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  one 
onion  with  a  clove  stuck  in  it,  salt,  and  white  pepper ;  sim- 
mer gently  till  the  whole  is  well  cooked,  throw  away  the 
onion,  clove,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf;  mash  well  the  cauli- 
flowers, strain  and  put  back  on  the  fire  with  the  broth ; 
give  one  boil,  pour  on  croutons,  and  serve. 

Cheese. — Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  soup-kettle, 
with  an  onion  chopped  fine ;  set  on  a  brisk  fire,  stir  now 
and  then  till  it  has  a  yellow  color,  then  sprinkle  on  it  half 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  keep  stirring  till  it  turns  brown } 
then  add  two  quarts  of  water,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  about 
five  minutes.  Have  prepared  in  the  soup-dish  the  follow- 
ing :  a  thin  layer  of  grated  cheese,  Gruyere  or  pine-apple 
cheese  ;  on  it  a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  bread,  then  another 
of  cheese,  again  another  of  bread,  etc.,  three  or  four  of 
each ;  strain,  and  pour  the  liquor  in  the  kettle  on  the 
whole ;  keep  in  a  warm  place  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

Milk. — Put  a  quart  of  milk  in  a  tin  saucepan  and  set 
it  on  the  fire ;  when  it  begins  to  rise,  sweeten  it  to  taste  ; 
give  one  boil,  pour  on  toasted  bread,  or  on  croutons,  or  on 
two  ounces  of  boiled  rice,  and  serve. 

Yolks  of  eggs  may  be  stirred  in,  just  before  turning  the 
milk  into  the  soup-dish,  and  when  taken  from  the  fire. 

Maigre  (called  Soup  auxHerbes,  fferl-Broth,  etc.). — 
Wash,  drain,  and  chop  fine  a  handful  of  sorrel,  a  dozen  sprigs 
of  chervil,  and  half  a  head  of  lettuce ;  put  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter in  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  put 


92  POTAGES   OE   SOUPS. 

the  sorrel,  chervil,  and  lettuce  in,  add  salt  and  pepper,  stir 
till  the  whole  is  cooked ;  then  cover  with  lukewarm  water  5 
boil  three  minutes,  beat  well  three  yolks  of  eggs  with  a 
tablespoonM  of  water,  take  from  the  fire  and  put  the  eggs 
in  while  stirring;  pour  immediately  on  croutons,  and  serve. 

With  Leeks. — Clean  six  leeks;  cut  them  in  pieces 
about  half  an  inch  long,  then  fry  them  with  a  little  butter 
till  turning  rather  yellow;  add  then  about  a  pint  and  a 
half  of  water,  boil  gently  till  the  leeks  are  perfectly 
cooked,  salt  to  taste,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

This  broth  may  be  taken  warm  or  cold. 

It  is  a  demulcent,  and  at  the  same  time  tLe  most  re- 
freshing drink  that  can  be  taken. 

With  Clams. — "Wash  and  clean  the  clams  well.  Then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  water  (say 
one  quart  of  clams),  set  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil, 
take  off  and  drain.  Put  the  pan  back  on  the  fire  with 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  it ;  when  melted,  fry  a  chopped 
onion  in  the  butter,  add  then  the  liquor  drained,  a  pint  of 
water,  salt,  pepper,  parsley  chopped  fine,  and  the  clams ; 
boil  two  minutes,  add  also  a  little  butter,  and  when  melted 
and  mixed,  turn  over  some  croutons  in  the  soup-dish,  and 
serve  warm. 

With  Muscles. — Proceed  as  for  clams  in  every  par- 
ticular. 

Allemande,  or  German  Soup. — Soak  four  ounces  of 
pearl-barley  in  tepid  water  for  eight  or  ten  hours,  and 
drain.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  broth,  a 
piece  of  leek,  one  of  celery,  and  boil  gently  about  one 
hour  and  a  half.  While  it  is  boiling,  mix  well  together 
in  a  bowl  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  half  a  gill  of 
broth,  which  turn  into  the  saucepan,  also  grated  nutmeg 
and  sugar  to  taste ;  boil  ten  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 


POTAGE8   OR   SOUPS.  93 

Another,  called  a  la  Maria  Theresa. — Proceed  as  for 
the  above,  except  that  you  mix  in  a  bowl  six  yolks  of 
eggs  with  half  a  gill  of  broth,  and  no  flour ;  and  finish  as 
in  the  preceding. 

Another  way. — Instead  of  using  pearl-barley,  use  flour 
that  you  have  dried  in  a  bakepan  till  it  turns  yellow. 

Indian,  or  Curry. — Put  in  a  saucepan  one  ounce  of 
butter  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  fry  in  it  two 
large  onions,  one  carrot,  and  half  a  turnip,  all  sliced  ;  also 
one  leek,  a  stalk  of  celery,  and  four  of  parsley,  all  cut  fine. 
When  the  whole  is  fried,  cover  with  about  one  quart  of 
broth,  season  with  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  half  a  teaspoon 
ful  of  cayenne  pepper,  same  of  pimento,  two  stalks  of 
thyme ;  boil  gently  about  one  hour  and  a  quarter,  and 
drain.  Put  the  liquor  back  in  the  saucepan  and  add  four 
ounces  of  boiled  rice,  a  little  saffron  to  color,  simmer  about 
fifteen  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

This  soup  is  good  and  healthy  for  southern  countries, 
but  is  too  highly  spiced  for  this  climate. 

Polish,  or  Barscz. — Peel  and  clean  fifteen  or  twenty 
red  beets,  split  them  in  two  or  four  lengthwise,  and  put 
them  in  an  earthen  vessel  with  a  pail  of  water  and  about 
a  pound  of  rye  bread ;  cover  the  vessel  as  air-tight  as  pos- 
sible, and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  (about  80  degrees  Fahr.) 
for  about  eight  days.  After  that  time  the  liquor  is  rather 
sour,  then  drain. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  four  pounds  of  lean  beef,  one  pound 
of  smoked  pork,  half  a  pound  of  ham,  four  onions,  two 
leeks,  and  about  four  quarts  of  the  liquor  made  as  above. 
Simmer  till  the  whole  is  done ;  skim  off  the  scum  that 
may  gather  on  the  surface,  and  then  strain. 

Roast  till  half  done,  three  chickens,  or  one  chicken  and 
one  rabbit,  or  one  chicken  and  one  duck ;  put  them  on 


94:  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  the  liqnor  strained  from  the 
beef,  pork,  etc.,  as  described  above.  Boil  gently  about 
half  an  hour,  strain  the  liquor  again.  Then  cut  the  beef, 
smoked  pork,  and  ham,  in  small  dice,  put  the  whole  in 
the  soup-dish,  with  the  strained  liquor,  and  serve  warm, 
as  soup. 

The  chicken,  or  chicken  and  rabbit,  or  chicken  and 
duck,  are  generally  served  separately,  with  some  of  the 
beets  used  to  make  the  liquor,  and  with  the  addition  of 
mushrooms,  parsley,  celery,  onions,  and  sausages,  raw  or 
cooked,  according  to  taste  ;  and  salt,  pepper,  and  spices, 
according  to  taste  also. 

The  poorer  classes  make  this  soup  with  water  instead 
of  beet-juice,  and  very  often  with  mutton  instead  of  beef; 
but  proceed  as  described  above  in  every  other  particular. 

Russian,  or  Uka. — The  uka  is  made  in  Russia  with 
sterlets.  It  may  be  made  here  with  the  sturgeon  of  the 
lakes,  or  with  salmon  or  trout. 

Cut  the  fish  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long,  and  put 
them  in  salt  water  for  one  hour,  and  drain.  Cut  in  small 
pieces  two  roots  of  parsley  and  two  of  celery,  throw  them 
into  boiling  water  five  minutes  and  drain  them.  Then  fry 
them  with  a  little  butter  till  they  turn  yellow,  when  add 
a  gill  of  broth,  and  boil  gently  till  it  becomes  rather  thick. 
Put  the  pieces  of  fish  in  also,  add  salt  and  pepper,  to 
taste,  cover  the  whole  with  fish-broth,  boil  gently  till  the 
fish  is  cooked,  and  serve  warm. 

Some  caviare  may  be  added  just  before  serving. 

Another,  or  TstcJiy. — Put  four  pounds  of  beef  in  a 
soup-kettle  (the  poorer  classes  always  use  mutton),  with  a 
chicken  or  a  duck,  half  a  pound  of  smoked  pork,  same  of 
smoked  sausages,  four  carrots,  four  cloves,  twelve  pepper- 
corns, salt,  two  leeks,  two  onions,  four  stalks  of  parsley, 


POTAGES  OB   SOUPS.  95 

and  one  of  celery  ;  cover  the  *whole  with  fish-broth,  and 
set  on  a  good  fire.  Skim  off  the  scum  carefully,  and  boil 
gently  till  the  whole  is  done.  As  soon  as  either  tho 
chicken  or  duck,  etc.,  is  done,  take  it  from  the  kettle. 
When  the  whole  is  cooked,  drain. 

Put  the  liquor  back  in  the  kettle  with  a  middling- 
sized  head  of  cabbage  cut  in  four,  or  about  the  same  quan- 
tity of  sour-krout,  slices  of  carrots  and  onions,  pearl-barley, 
semoule,  or  gruel ;  simmer  about  three  hours,  and  it  is 
done. 

It  is  served  in  two  ways  :  first,  all  the  meat  and  vege- 
tables are  cut  in  small  pieces  and  served  with  the  broth 
as  soup ;  second,  the  broth  is  served  with  the  vegetables  cut 
up,  and  tbe  meat  is  served  after  and  separately,  as  a  releve. 

Nothing  is  thrown  away  but  the  pepper-corns  and 
cloves. 

Spanish,  or  Olla  Podrida. — Put  four  ounces  of  lean 
and  fat  salt  pork  into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire  ; 
when  partly  fried,  add  half  a  pound  of  beef,  same  of  mut- 
ton, same  of  veal  (occasionally  a  chicken  or  partridge  is 
added  also),  and  four  ounces  of  ham.  Just  cover  the 
whole  with  cold  water,  and  skim  carefully  as  soon  as  the 
scum  comes  on  the  surface.  When  skimmed,  add  a  gill 
of  dry  peas,  previously  soaked  in  water  for  an  hour,  half 
a  small  head  of  cabbage,  pimento  to  taste,  one  carrot,  one 
turnip,  two  leeks,  three  or  four  stalks  of  celery,  same  of 
parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  cloves,  two  onions,  two  cloves 
of  garlic,  ten  pepper-corns,  and  some  mace ;  fill  up  with 
water  so  that  the  whole  is  just  covered,  and  simmer  for 
about  five  hours. 

In  case  the  water  should  simmer  away  too  much,  add  a 
little  more. 

When  done,  dish  the  pork,  beef,  mutton,  veal,  ham,  and 


96  POTAGES   OR   SOUPS. 

chicken.  Put  the  peas,  cabbage,  carrots,  turnips,  leeks, 
celery,  and  onions  on  another  dish. 

Strain  the  liquor,  pour  it  on  croutons  in  the  soup-dish, 
and  serve  the  three  dishes  at  the  same  time. 

The  Spanish  peasantry  and  the  lower  classes  in  cities, 
serve  the  whole  in  the  same  dish,  and  generally  omit  the 
beef  and  veal.  The  better  class  serve  the  soup  first,  and 
then  the  meat  and  vegetables  afterward. 

Another. — Chop  very  fine  two  onions,  one  cucumber 
peeled  and  seeded,  a  little  pimento,  two  cloves  of  garlic, 
four  sprigs  of  parsley,  same  of  chervil,  and  mix  the  whole 
in  a  bowl  with  the  juice  of  four  tomatoes,  and  to  which 
add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs.  Then 
season  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  and  water 
to  taste,  and  serve. 

The  Spanish  call  it  a  cool  and  refreshing  soup. 


SAUCES. 


THERE  is  no  good  cooking  possible  without  good  saucea, 
Many  excellent  pieces  of  meat,  etc.,  are  spoiled  by  being 
served  with  a  poor  sauce. 

Let  every  one  bear  in  mind  that  water  is  no  substitute 
for  broth ;  that  vinegar  or  water  is  no  substitute  for  wine, 
etc. 

There  is  no  place  where  the  old  proverb  can  be  better 
applied  than  in  the  kitchen,  "  Waste  not,  spare  not" 

The  French,  Italians,  Spaniards,  and  Germans,  use 
broth  and  wine  in  their  cooking,  and  do  not  spend  as  much 
as  the  Americans  for  their  food  ;  they  could  not  afford  it ; 
but  they  waste  not,  neither  do  they  lose  any  thing  good 
through  carelessness  or  prejudice. 

Good  sauces  are  not  as  difficult  to  make  as  is  gener- 
ally believed. 

This  general  belief  comes  from  the  fact  that  many, 
after  having  partaken  of  a  certain  dish  somewhere,  and 
liking  it  much,  ask  of  their  own  cook  to  prepare  the 
same. 

The  cook,  most  probably,  has  never  heard  of  it,  but 
nevertheless  prepares  a  dish  which  is  hardly  eatable,  and 
is  to  the  other  what  a  crab-apple  is  to  a  raspberry. 

The  most  important  thing  in  making  a  sauce  is  for  the 
cook  to  put  his  or  her  whole  attention  and  care  to  it. 
5 


98  SATJCES. 

Most  sauces  must  be  stirred  continually  while  on  tlic 
fire,  and  especially  white  sauces,  such  as  Bechamel,  Be- 
chamel with  cream  or  cream  sauce,  and  white  sauce. 

It  is  necessary  to  stir  all  sauces  now  and  then,  to  pro- 
vent  the  forming  of  a  kind  of  skin  on  the  surface. 

The  onions,  shallots,  garlics,  and  vinegar,  used  in  sharp 
sauces,  may  be  prepared  as  described  for  piquante  sauce. 

Sauces  can  always  be  made  to  suit  the  taste.  A  thou 
sand  can  be  made  as  well  as  a  hundred,  by  merely  adding 
or  subtracting  one  or  more  of  the  compounds,  or  by  pro- 
ceeding differently.  An  idea  of  what  can  be  done  in  that 
line  can  be  formed  by  reading  our  directions  for  SUPREME 
SAUCE. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  A  SAUCE  THICKER  WHEN  IT  IS  TOO 
THIN,  AND  THINNER  WHEN  TOO  THICK. 

Take  two  fresh  eggs,  break  them  gently,  and  separate 
the  white  part  from  the  yolk ;  be  careful  to  have  the  yolk 
free  from  any  white  (there  is  in  every  yolk  a  little  white 
spot,  which  you  cannot  detach  without  using  a  fork,  knife, 
or  spoon) ;  mix  well  the  two  yolks  with  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  sauce  that  is  too  thin,  and  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  pigeon's  egg ;  then  take  the  sauce 
from  the  fire,  pour  the  mixture  in  it,  little  by  little,  stir- 
ring all  the  time ;  when  the  whole  is  in,  put  back  on  the 
fire  for  three  or  four  minutes,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil ; 
take  away  and  use.  When  too  thick,  add  broth. 

Allemande. — Chop  fine  and  fry  in  butter  four  or  five 
mushrooms ;  then  add  a  little  flour,  and  four  or  five  table- 
spoonfuls  of  broth ;  reduce  it  to  a  sauce ;  put  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in  it,  also  a  sprig  of  white  pars- 
ley chopped  fine,  one  of  thyme,  a  clove,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  little  nutmeg  grated  fine,  the  juice  of  a 


SAUCES.  99 

quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  three  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs , 
boil  two  or  three  minutes,  and  use.  If  found  too  thick, 
add  a  little  broth. 

Anchovy  Butter. — Strain  essence  of  anchovy  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  knead  it  with  fresh  butter,  or  salt  butter 
that  you  have  kneaded  in  cold  water  previously,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

Anchovy  Sauce. — Use  butter  without  salt ;  if  salty, 
work  it  in  cold  water.  Set  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  melt  it  slowly ;  then  add  about 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovy ;  stir  a  few  sec- 
onds, and  it  is  done.  More  anchovy  may  be  used  if 
liked.  It  is  served  in  a  boat. 

Apple. — Peel,  quarter,  and  core  four  or  six  apples, 
and  set  them  on  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  water;  stir  now  and  then  till  done  ;  when 
done,  mash  through  a  fine  colander ;  add  a  little  sugar, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

If  found  too  thin,  keep  on  the  fire  for  some  time.  If 
too  thick,  add  a  little  water. 

Cranberry. — Put  a  quart  of  cranberries  in  a  saucepan 
and  set  it  on  a  rather  slow  fire ;  stir  occasionally  till 
done ;  mash  gently  through  a  fine  colander,  or  through  a 
strainer;  add  a  little  sugar,  and  use. 

Currant. — Proceed  as  for  a  cranberry-sauce  in  every 
particular,  except  that  it  must  be  mashed  through  a 
strainer  or  through  a  towel. 

Peach. — Stone  about  a  quart  of  peaches,  and  proceed 
as  for  apple-sauce  for  the  rest. 

Raspberry. — Made  the  same  as  currant-sauce. 

The  five  sauces  above  are  served  with  roasted  game. 

Bechamel. — Mix  cold,  and  well  together,  in  a  tin 
saucepan,  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of 


100  SAUCES. 

flour;  then  add  a  pint  of  milk,  and  set  on  the  fire; 
Btir  continually,  and  when  turning  rather  thick,  take  off; 
beat  a  yolk  of  egg  in  a  cup  with  a  teaspoonful  of  water ; 
turn  it  into  the  sauce,  and  mix  well  again  ;  salt  and  white 
pepper  to  taste,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Blonde. — Proceed  exactly  as  for  white  sauce,  using 
broth  instead  of  water. 

Bread. — Take  the  soft  part  of  half  a  ten-cent  loaf  of 
bread ;  break  it  in  pieces,  which  put  in  a  saucepan  with 
a  quart  of  good  fresh  milk,  six  pepper-corns  chopped  fine, 
and  a  little  salt;  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  five  or  six 
minutes,  stirring  the  while ;  take  off,  mash  through  a 
strainer  or  a  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

A  bread-sauce  is  really  a  very  poor  sauce.  Its  insi- 
pidity is  concealed  by  the  great  amount  of  pepper  that  it 
contains. 

Brown  Butter,  or  Beurre  Nbir. — This  is  butter  set  on 
the  fire  in  a  frying-pan  and  left  till  it  turns  perfectly  brown, 
then  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  are  dropped  in  it,  fried  half  a 
minute,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

It  is  sometimes  used  with  vinegar,  but  in  that  case  it 
is  described  in  the  receipts. 

Caper. — Mix  well  together,  cold,  in  a  small  saucepan, 
two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  then 
add  a  pint  of  broth,  set  on  the  fire,  stir,  and  when  thicken- 
ing, add  capers  to  taste,  whole  or  chopped ;  give  another 
boil,  take  from  the  fire,  add  salt,  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
beaten  with  a  teaspoonful  of  water,  mix  and  serve. 

Celery. — Proceed  as  for  a  caper-sauce  in  every  particu- 
lar except  that  you  add  three  or  four  stalks  of  celery 
chopped  fine,  and  then  boil  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  and 
strain  it  before  using. 

Colbert. — Set  half  a  pint  of  meat  gravy  on  the  fire,  in 


SAUCES.  101 

a  small  saucepan  with  half  a  dozen  mushrooms  and  one 
or  two  truffles  chopped  fine  (the  latter,  if  handy),  boil 
gently  five  minutes,  add  one  ounce  of  butter,  stir,  and 
when  the  butter  is  melted  and  mixed  with  the  rest,  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

Coulis  of  Fish,  or  Fish  Gravy,  is  one  and  the  same 
thing. 

Boil  hard  four  eggs,  and  put  the  yolks  in  a  mortar. 
Take  a  pike  weighing  about  two  pounds,  clean,  prepare, 
and  broil  it  as  directed ;  split  it  open,  take  all  the  bones 
and  skin  off,  put  the  flesh  in  the  mortar  with  the  yolks, 
and  pound  the  whole,  and  knead  it  with  a  little  butter. 
Place  a  little  butter,  of  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  a  stewpan, 
and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  fry  in  it  till  of  a 
golden  color,  two  carrots  and  two  onions  cut  in  slices; 
after  that  add  also  a  piece  of  bay-leaf,  two  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, one  of  thyme,  a  little  isinglass,  the  eggs  and  fish, 
and  cover  with  water ;  simmer  gently  about  one  hour  and 
a  half,  and  strain. 

If  found  too  thin  after  it  is  strained,  set  it  back  on  the 
fire,  add  a  little  more  isinglass,  and  simmer  fifteen  minutes 
longer. 

Coulis  of  Veal. — Place  in  a  stewpan  about  one  pound 
of  veal,  fillet  or  knuckle,  with  four  ounces  of  bacon,  not 
smoked,  and  cut  fine  ;  also  a  carrot  cut  fine,  a  little  pep- 
per, and  grated  nutmeg  ;  set  on  a  slow  fire,  cover  well ; 
half  an  hour  after  augment  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  you 
see  the  meat  sticking  to  the  pan,  subdue  it,  leave  it  so  ten 
minutes,  then  take  from  the  fire,  put  the  bacon,  veal,  and 
carrot  on  a  dish ;  put  butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg  in 
the  pan ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  put  the  meat  back 
into  it  Cover  with  warm  broth  and  set  on  a  slow  fire  for 


102  SAUCES. 

about  two  hcurs ;  take  off,  throw  in  it  a  few  drops  of  cold 
water,  skim  off  the  fat,  strain,  and  use. 

Cream. — A  cream-sauce  is  a  Bechamel  made  with 
cream  instead  of  milk. 

It  is  often  called  a  la  creme,  its  French  name. 

Cucumber. — Proceed  as  for  caper-sauce,  using  pickled 
cucumbers,  chopped  fine,  instead  of  capers. 

Egg. — Proceed  as  for  caper-sauce  in  every  particular, 
except  that  you  use  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  fine, 
instead  of  capers. 

Diplomat. — Make  a  cream-sauce  with  one  pint  of 
cream.  When  made,  put  in  it  nearly  half  a  pound  of  lob- 
ster  butter,  stir,  and  when  the  whole  is  well  mixed,  add 
also  about  a  tablespoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy  and  mix 
again  ;  pepper  to  taste,  and  use. 

It  is  a  rich  sauce,  used  with  boiled  fish  and  baked  or 
roasted  meat. 

Espagnole. — This  sauce  is  very  seldom  made  in  the 
kitchen  of  a  family,  except  of  a  large  and  wealthy  family, 
being  a  rather  expensive  one.  In  the  kitchen  of  a  fami- 
ly, gravy  or  even  broth  is  used  in  its  stead ;  but,  when 
preparing  an  extra  dinner,  it  should  be  made,  and  a  little 
of  it  used  in  all  the  brown  sauces,  either  for  meat,  fish,  or 
vegetables. 

Spread  about  half  a  pound  of  butter  in  the  bottom  of 
a  stewpan,  lay  in  it  lean  ham  and  veal,  partridge,  wild 
rabbit,  pheasant,  or  fowl  of  any  kind,  about  four  ounces 
of  each,  a  small  carrot  cut  in  dice,  one  onion  with  a  clove 
stuck  in  it,  half  a  turnip,  and  a  sprig  of  thyme ;  cover 
the  pan  and  set  it  on  the  fire  ;  let  it  simmer  till  reduced  to 
a  jelly,  then  mix  in  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  a  wine- 
glass of  white  wine,  cover  with  broth,  add  salt,  pepper,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  clove,  a  bay-leaf, 


SAUCES.  103 

»nd  two  mushrooms  cut  in  pieces ;  simmer  from  three  to 
four  hours,  skim  off  the  scum  as  soon  as  it  comes  on  the 
surface ;  when  done,  take  it  from  the  fire,  throw  a  few 
drops  of  cold  water  in,  and  skim  off  the  fat,  then  strain 
and  use. 

It  will  keep  for  some  time  if  kept  air-tight  in  a  pot  or 
bottle,  and  in  a  cool,  dry  place. 

Essence  of  Spinage,  or  Spinach. — Soak  in  water,  drain, 
dry,  and  pound  well  two  or  three  handfuls  of  spinach,  put 
them  in  a  coarse  towel  and  press  the  juice  out,  put  it  in  a 
pan  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  nearly  boiling,  take  it 
off,  strain,  and  add  to  it  a  little  fine-crashed  sugar,  stir  a 
little,  and  bottle  when  cold ;  it  may  be  kept  for  months ; 
use  it  where  directed. 

Sauce  for  every  kind  of  Fixh,  boiled,  baked,  or  roasted. 
—Boil  hard  two  eggs,  take  the  yolks  and  pound  them 
well,  and  place  them  in  a  bowL  Have  boiling  water  on 
the  fire,  and  put  in  it  cives,  burnet,  chervil,  tarragon,  and 
parsley,  four  or  five  sprigs  of  each ;  boil  five  minutes,  take 
off,  drain  and  pound  them  well,  then  strain  them  on  the 
eggs,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cider  vinegar,  two  of 
French  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
sweet-oil,  which  you  pour  in,  little  by  little,  at  the  same 
time  mixing  the  whole  well  with  a  boxwood  spoon,  and  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

fines  Herbes.—  -Chop  very  fine  a  small  handful  of 
parsley,  Ballots,  and  chives ;  and  proceed  as  for  making  a 
caper-sauce,  except  that  you  use  the  chopped  spices  in- 
stead of  capers. 

Oenoise. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted,  mix  in  it  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  ;  stir  for  one  minute,  add  one-fourth  of 
a  carrot,  sliced,  stir  now  and  then,  and  when  nearly  fried, 


104:  SAUCES. 

add  also  a  pint  of  broth,  half  a  pint  of  claret  wine,  a 
small  onion,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  chopped ;  two  cloves,  a 
bay-leaf,  two  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  salt,  and 
pepper ;  boil  gently  about  one  hour  and  forty  minutes,  and 
strain.  If  it  boils  away,  add  a  little  broth.  Put  it  back 
on  the  fire  with  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  boil  gently 
for  about  ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

This  sauce  is  excellent  with  any  kind  of  boiled  fish, 
but  especially  with  trout,  pike,  and  pickerel. 

A  trout  served  with  a  genoise  sauce  is  considered  a 
recherche  dish. 

Hollandaise. — Set  one  ounce  of  butter  on  the  fire  in  a 
saucepan,  and  when  melted,  add  half  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  stir,  and  when  turning  rather  yellow,  add  half  a  pint 
of  broth,  stir  for  one  minute ;  add  also  four  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley and  four  mushrooms  chopped  fine  (one  truffle  sliced, 
if  handy,  would  be  excellent),  a  liquor-glass  of  Madeira, 
Port,  or  Sherry  wine ;  boil  gently  ten  minutes,  stirring 
the  while,  and  serve. 

Indian. — This  sauce  may  be  used  with  fish,  in  summer 
and  in  southern  places. 

Have  a  stewpan  on  a  moderate  fire,  with  two  ounces 
of  butter  in  it ;  when  melted,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
pimento,  salt,  a  pinch  of  saffron,  and  one  of  grated  nut- 
meg, also  one  and  a  half  tablespoon  mis  of  flour — the  latter 
you  sprinkle  in,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while ;  cover 
with  broth,  boil  twelve  minutes  and  strain ;  afterward  add 
two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  a  little,  and  use. 

Italian. — Tie  together  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  and  a  bay-leaf;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
or  three  mushrooms  cut  fine,  one  shallot,  a  small  onion 
with  a  clove  stuck  in  it,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine  ;  set  on  a  gentle  fire, 


SAUCES.  105 

and  reduce  it  half;  then  add  about  one  tablespoonful  of 
olive-oil  and  half  a  pint  of  broth,  simmer  forty  minutes, 
strain,  and  use. 

Lobster. — Chop  very  fine  or  pound  some  of  the  flesh 
of  a  boiled  lobster.  Make  a  white  or  blonde  sauce,  and 
instead  of  taking  it  from  the  fire  when  done,  turn  tho 
chopped  flesh  into  it  with  a  little  piece  of  butter ;  stir, 
give  one  boil,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Craw-fish,  prawn,  shrimp,  and  crab  sauces  arc  made 
the  same  as  lobster  sauce. 

Madeira. — Mix  cold  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  till 
it  turns  rather  brown ;  when  add  nearly  a  pint  of  gravy, 
stir  till  it  is  becoming  thick ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  Ma- 
deira wine,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while,  give  one  boil 
only,  salt  to  taste,  and  then  strain  and  use. 

Champagne  sauce  is  made  in  the  same  way,  except  that 
it  must  be  poured  in  faster  and  used  immediately. 

All  wine  sauces  may  be  made  in  the  same  way.  Wo 
mean  wine  sauces  for  meat  or  fish. 

Maitre  cT  Hotel. — This  sauce  is  sometimes  called  butter 
maitre  d1  hotel.  Mix  and  knead  well  together  in  a  bowl, 
two  ounces  of  butter,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
and  the  juice  of  a  half  lemon ;  salt  to  taste  and  use. 

Pepper,  grated  nutmeg,  and  chopped  chives,  may  be 
added  if  liked.  Using  vinegar  instead  of  lemon-juice 
makes  an  inferior  sauce. 

Mayonnaise. — In  warm  weather  it  is  necessary  to  put 
the  bowl  on  ice  while  making  it.  Put  one  or  two  yolks 
of  fresh  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  a  small  pinch  of  salt ;  com- 
mence stirring  with  a  box-wood  spoon,  or,  what  is  still  bet- 
ter, a  stone  or  marble  pestle.  Stir  without  interruption, 
always  in  the  same  way  and  describing  a  circle.  It  is 
5* 


106  SAUCES. 

more  easily  done  if  the  bowl  is  held  steady.  After  having 
stirred  about  half  a  minute,  commence  pouring  the  oil  in, 
drop  by  drop,  and  as  soon  as  you  see  that  it  is  thickening 
pretty  well,  add  also  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  and  same  of 
lemon-juice  ;  then  continue  with  the  oil  in  the  same  way. 
Every  time  that  it  becomes  too  thick,  add  a  little  vinegar, 
but  continue  stirring.  You  put  as  much  oil  as  you  please ; 
two  bottles  of  oil  might  be  used  and  it  would  still  be 
thick.  Spread  it  on  chicken  salad,  etc. 

Tartar. — Chop  some  capers  and  shallots  very  fine,  mix 
them  well  with  a  mayonnaise  when  made,  and  you  have  a 
Tartar  sauce. 

Mushroom. — Proceed  exactly  as  for  caper-sauce,  using 
chopped  mushrooms  instead  of  capers. 

Piquante. — Take  a  small  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the 
fire  with  two  ounces  of  butter  in  it,  and  when  melted  add 
a  small  onion  chopped  ;  stir,  and  when  nearly  fried  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir,  and  when  turning  rather  brown, 
add  half  a  pint  of  broth,  salt,  pepper,  a  pickled  cucumber 
chopped,  four  stalks  of  parsley,  also  chopped,  and  mus- 
tard ;  boil  gently  about  ten  minutes,  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
vinegar ;  give  one  boil,  and  serve. 

Another  way. — Set  the  chopped  onion  on  the  fire  with 
one  gill  of  vinegar,  and  boil  gently  till  the  vinegar  is  en- 
tirely absorbed,  or  boiled  away.  Make  the  same  sauce  as 
above  in  another  pan,  omitting  the  onion  and  vinegar,  and 
when  done  mix  the  two  together,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Another. — Add  three  shallots,  chopped  fine,  to-  the 
chopped  onion,  and  proceed  as  above  for  the  rest. 

Parisienne. — Make  a  bunch  of  seasonings  with  six 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  two  cloves ; 
put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  chopped  truffles, 
and  about  a  pint  of  white  wine ;  set  on  the  fire  and  boil 


SAUCES.  10  T 

gently  till  about  half  reduced,  strain,  put  back  on  the 
fire,  turn  into  it,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while,  nearly  a 
pint  of  gravy  or  consomme  ;  continue  stirring  now  and 
then  till  it  begins  to  turn  rather  thick,  add  pepper  to 
taste,  strain,  and  use  with  fish  and  game. 

Poivrade.— Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in 
a  stewpan,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle 
in  it,  little  by  little,  about  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring 
the  while  ;  when  of  a  proper  thickness,  and  of  a  brownish 
color,  take  from  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar, 
a  wine-glass  of  claret  wine,  a  glass  of  broth,  a  shallot  cut 
in  two,  a  middling-sized  onion,  also  cut  in  two,  with  a 
clove  stuck  in  each  piece,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  one  of  pars- 
ley, a  bay-leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  little  salt,  and  two  pep- 
per-corns ;  boil  about  twenty  minutes,  strain  and  use. 

The  vinegar,  shallot,  and  onion  may  be  boiled  separate- 
ly as  for  a  piquante  sauce. 

Polonaise, — Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  add  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  the  soft  part  of  bread,  bruised  in  a  coarse  towel ; 
stir  for  about  one  minute,  salt  to  taste,  and  use. 

Like  the  Parisienne,  it  is  used  with  game. 

Poulette. — Set  a  stewpan  on  the  fire  with  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in  it ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in 
it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring  the  while  ;  pour  gently 
in  it  also,  and  little  by  little,  a  glass  of  warm  water,  and  a 
wine-glass  of  white  wine,  or  broth  instead  of  both,  salt, 
pepper,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
chopped  shallot,  a  little  nutmeg,  four  small  white  onions, 
and  two  or  three  mushrooms  (the  latter  cut  fine  and  fried 
in  butter  before  using  them) ;  simmer  till  the  whole  is  well 
eooked,  strain  and  use. 

In  case  it  should  be  found  too  light,  add  when  done, 


108  SAUCES. 

and  before  taking  from  the  fire,  two  or  three  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

Princesse. — Make  a  cream-sauce  with  one  pint  of 
cream  and  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire;  immediately  turn 
into  it,  stirring  the  while,  about  half  a  pint  of  reduced, 
good  meat  gravy ;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  add  two  or 
three  ounces  of  butter,  stir  for  a  couple  of  minutes  longer, 
strain  and  use  immediately. 

It  is  a  very  rich  sauce,  used  with  boiled  fish  and 
roasted  or  baked  meat. 

Provengale. — Chop  fine  two  or  three  mushrooms,  and 
two  shallots ;  put  the  whole  in  a  stewpan  with  a  clove  of 
garlic,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  olive-oil ;  set  on  a  mod- 
erate fire,  and  leave  till  half  fried ;  then  sprinkle  in  it  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stirring  the  while ;  add  also  half  a 
pint  of  white  wine,  and  as  much  broth,  and  two  small 
onions,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  half  a  bay- 
leaf,  salt,  and  pepper ;  simmer  about  half  an  hour,  take 
from  the  fire,  and  a  few  minutes  after  skim  off  the  fat; 
take  out  the  garlic,  onions,  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf, 
and  it  is  then  ready  for  immediate  use. 

Ravigote. — Chop  fine,  and  in  equal  proportion,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  chervil,  tarragon,  and  pepper-grass,  also, 
in  equal  proportion,  one  teaspoonful  of  burnet  and  table 
celery ;  place  the  whole  in  a  stewpan  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, cover  with  broth,  set  on  the  fire,  and  boil  twenty 
minutes  ;  after  which  take  from  the  fire,  and  strain.  Mix 
two  ounces  of  butter  with  flour  enough  to  make  a  paste, 
put  it  with  the  sauce  on  the  fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of 
cider  vinegar ;  simmer  till  of  a  proper  thickness,  and  use. 

Robert. — Put  about  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan,  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it 
about  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring  the  while ;  when 


8AFOES.  109 

of  a  brownish  color,  add  three  small  onions  chopped  fine, 
salt,  and  pepper;  stir,  and  leave  on  the  fire  till  the  whole 
is  turning  brown,  then  add  a  glass  of  broth,  boil  abou* 
thirty  minutes,  and  strain ;  mix  well  in  a  cup  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  one  of  sugar,  and  one  of  mustard, 
which  mix  again  with  the  sauce,  and  it  is  ready  to  be 
used. 

Remolade. — Chop  very  fine  a  small  Landfill  of  chervil, 
tarragon,  and  burnet,  in  equal  proportion,  and  put  them 
in  a  saucer  or  boat ;  add  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  grated,  and 
mustard,  to  taste ;  also  one  or  two  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in 
dice ;  mix  the  whole  gently  and  well ;  then  add  the  vine- 
gar, and  lastly  the  oil.  The  two  latter  ones  are  put  in 
little  by  little,  stirring  gently  the  while.  Serve  as  it  is. 

Another. — Proceed  as  for  the  above,  except  that  you 
chop  fine  with  the  chervil,  etc.,  some  parsley,  shallot,  and 
garlic  ;  the  five  spices  in  equal  proportion. 

When  finished,  add  also  a  pinch  of  sugar. 

Roux. — Set  a  small  saucepan  on  a  moderate  fire,  with 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  it ;  sprinkle  into  it,  when  melted,  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour ;  stir,  and  when  turning  brown,  use. 

Shallot. — Chop  the  shallots,  and  proceed  as  for  caper- 
sauce,  using  them  instead  of  capers. 

Soubise. — Put  about  half  a  pint  of  good  meat  gravy 
in  a  saucepan ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add 
half  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine ;  when  well  mixed,  add  also 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  puree  of  white  onions, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  five  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then, 
and  it  is  made. 

A  soubise  is  an  excellent  sauce  for  baked  or  boiled  fish, 
also  for  roasted  meat. 

Supreme. — This  sauce  is  made  in  several  ways.  We 
rill  give  here  the  three  principal  ones : 


110  SAUCES. 

1.  Make  an  Allemande  sauce ;  and  when  done,  add  to  it 
two  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  gill  of  consomme;  stir 
and  mix,  and  place  on  a  brisk  fire  to  start  it  boiling  at 
once ;   take  it  from  the  fire  as  soon  as  it  becomes  thick ; 
then  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  use. 

2.  Make  a  roux;  add  to  it  about  half  a  pint  of  chicken 
gravy  ;   stir  or  boil  five  or  six  minutes ;   then  add  two 
ounces  of  butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  pinch  of  parsley 
chopped  fine ;  give  one  boil,  and  use. 

3.  This  is  made  like  No.  2,  except  that  you  use  an 
Allemande  sauce  instead  of  a  roux,  and  besides  the  pint 
of  chicken  gravy,  etc.,  you  add  also  half  a  gill  of  white 
wine. 

It  is  used  especially  with  roasted  chicken  and  game. 

Tomato. — If  you  use  fresh  tomatoes,  blanch  them  first ; 
if  preserved,  use  them  as  they  are  in  the  can.  Put  one 
pint  of  tomatoes  in  a  saucepan  with  a  small  onion  and  a 
clove  of  garlic  sliced ;  also  two  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  six  pepper-corns,  and  salt ; 
boil  gently  till  reduced  about  one-third,  when  mash  gently 
through  a  strainer  or  sieve ;  all  the  tomato-seed  and  sea- 
Bonings  must  remain  in  the  strainer ;  put  back  on  the  fire, 
with  a  little  piece  of  butter ;  give  one  boil,  and  it  is  done. 

Truffle. — This  sauce  is  made  like  a  caper-sauce,  using 
chopped  or  sliced  truffles  instead  of  capers. 

Veloute. — This  and  gravy  is  nearly  the  same  thing. 
It  is  gravy  made  as  directed  for  gravy,  with  the  addition 
of  a  dozen  mushrooms  chopped  fine;  and  is  used  for 
sauces,  like  gravy,  to  make  sauces  richer  than  with  broth. 

Vinaigrette. — Put  salt  and  pepper  in  a  saucer  (and 
mustard,  if  it  is  to  be  used  with  butcher's  meat ;  but  with 
fish,  chicken,  or  birds,  it  is  really  too  strong ;  it  neutralizes 
the  delicate  flavor  of  the  object),  and  pour  vinegar  over, 


SAUCES.  Ill 

attle  by  little,  beating  with  a  fork  at  the  same  time ;  then 
pour  the  oil,  also  little  by  little,  and  while  beating;  a 
little  chopped  parsley  is  also  added ;  and  serve  with  cold 
moat,  fish,  or  vegetables. 

It  is  quickly  made,  is  good,  and  makes  an  excellent 
dish  for  breakfast,  served  as  we  said  above. 

WJiite. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan and  set  it  on  the  fire,  stir  a  little,  and  as  soon  as 
melted,  remove  on  a  rather  slow  fire  ;  add  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  stir  continually  till  thoroughly  mixed  (two  or 
three  minutes) ;  then  add  again  about  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  pouring  gently,  and  stirring  the  while,  take  off 
when  it  begins  to  turn  thick ;  add  a  yolk  of  egg  beaten 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  cold  water,  mix  it  well  with  the 
rest,  and  it  is  ready  for  use  ;  after  having  mixed,  also  salt 
and  white  pepper  to  taste. 

Oyster. — Add  to  a  white  sauce  some  oysters  blanched ; 
then  stir  and  mix  with  the  whole  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 

Muscle. — Boil  the  muscles  about  one  minute  and  make 
as  oyster-sauce. 

SAUCES  FOR  PUDDINGS. 

Milk. — Put  in  a  block-tin  saucepan  four  tablespoon- 
mis  of  sugar,  one  of  flour,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  one  pint  of 
milk ;  essence  to  flavor,  and  mix  the  whole  well ;  set  on  a 
good  but  not  sharp  fire,  stir  continually  till  it  begins  to 
become  rather  thick ;  take  off,  turn  over  the  pudding,  and 
serve. 

Madeira. — Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  one  ounce 
of  butter  in  it ;  as  soon  as  melted,  add  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour,  stir  till  it  turns  rather  yellow,  and  add  also  one 
pint  of  water,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  a  few  drops  of 
burnt  sugar ;  boil  gently,  about  twenty-five  minutes ;  add 


112  SAUCES. 

nearly  a  gill  of  Madeira  wine,  boil  again  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  in  a  boat. 

Rum. — Proceed  as  for  Madeira-sauce,  except  you  use 
half  a  gill  of  rum  instead  of  Madeira. 

Brandy. — Proceed  as  for  rum-sauce,  using  the  saino 
proportion  of  brandy. 


FAECES  AND  GARNITURES, 

CALLED    ALSO    GARNISH    AND    GARNISHING,    USED    TO 
DECORATE  OR  ORNAMENT  DISHES. 


With  Bread. — Put  in  a  tureen  about  a  pound  of  the 
soft  part  of  bread,  and  cover  with  broth ;  when  it  has  ab- 
sorbed the  broth,  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  set  it  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  leave  till  it  becomes  a  thick  paste ;  stir  now  and 
then,  then  mix  well  with  it  three  yolks  of  eggs,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

With  Cabbage. — Throw  into  boiling  water  a  little  salt 
and  a  middling-sized  cabbage ;  boil  it  half  an  hour,  take 
it  from  the  kettle  with  a  skimmer,  throw  it  in  cold  water, 
and  drain  it,  pressing  it  a  little  in  the  drainer  to  force  the 
water  out;  cut  off  the  stump,  and  chop  the  cabbage  fine. 
Have  in  a  stewpan  on  tlie  fire,  three  or  four  ounces  of  fresh 
butter ;  put  the  cabbage  in  when  the  butter  is  half  melted, 
sprinkling  on  while  stirring  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  pour 
on  it,  little  by  little,  some  broth,  stirring  the  while,  and 
when  it  has  a  fine  brownish  color,  wet  with  broth  enough 
to  boil  it;  season  with  salt,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and 
four  pepper-corns;  boil  gently  till  the  sauce  is  thick  enough, 
take  away  the  pepper-corns,  and  use. 

With  Combs  of  Chicken. — Soak  the  combs  over  night 
in  cold  water,  and  then  clean  them  well  by  wiping  roughly 


FAECES   AND  GAENTTUEES. 

with  a  coarse  towel,  wetted  and  salted ;  wash  and  drain 
them ;  put  a  dozen  of  them  in  a  saucepan  with  two  sweet- 
breads blanched,  cover  the  whole  with  broth,  and  boil  till 
done ;  then  add  salt,  pepper,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

With  Cauliflowers. — Proceed  as  for  cabbage  in  every 
particular,  except  that  it  does  not  require  as  long  doing. 

With  Croutons. — Cut  pieces  of  soft  part  of  stale  bread 
in  different  shapes,  and  fry  them  on  both  sides  in  butter 
or  fat. 

For  potage,  they  are  cut  in  dice,  but  for  decorating 
dishes,  they  are  cut  either  round,  square,  oblong,  or  of  a 
heart,  star-like,  half  moon,  butterfly,  or  flower  shape,  and 
about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Take  them  off  with 
a  skimmer,  and  turn  into  a  colander  to  drain. 


d 


a 


The  cut  d  is  used  for  potage,  and  a,  5,  c,  etc.,  are  used 
to  decorate. 

Duxelle. — Make  a  jines-herbes  sauce,  and  when  ready 
to  be  used,  add  half  a  gill  of  gravy,  and  give  one  boil ;  add 
also  two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs,  simmer  one  minute,  and 
use  warm. 

Mushrooms,  whole  or  in  slices,  may  be  added  at  the 
same  time  the  yolks  of  eggs  are  added. 


FAECES   AND   GARNITURES.  115 

With  Eggs. — Mash  and  mix  well  together  six  hard- 
coiled  yolks  of  eggs  with  three  yolks  not  cooked,  salt 
and  pepper.  Put  the  mixture  in  parts  on  the  paste-board, 
which  must  be  previously  dusted  with  flour ;  roll  each 
part  and  give  it  the  shape  of  a  small  egg  (a  pigeon's  egg 
or  a  little  larger).  When  the  whole  is  thus  prepared,  drop 
in  boiling  water,  boil  till  cooked,  and  use  to  decorate  meat 
or  fish. 

Financiere. — A  garniture  financiere  is  the  same  as  a 
garniture  with  combs  of  chicken,  to  which  are  added  some 
mushrooms  and  truffles,  both  cut  in  slices. 

It  is  generally  served  with  a  roast  chicken. 

With  Livers. — Geese  livers  are  the  best,  being  the  fat- 
test. Drop  two  geese  livers  in  boiling  water  and  a  little 
salt,  boil  three  minutes  and  drain.  Put  in  a  saucepan  one 
gill  of  broth,  same  of  white  wine,  Sauterne  or  Catawba,  a 
tablespoonful  of  gravy,  six  pepper-corns,  two  or  three  stalks 
of  parsley,  salt,  and  the  livers ;  set  on  the  fire  and  boil 
gently  for  about  twenty-five  minutes.  Take  off  the  livers, 
boil  a  few  minutes  longer  to  thicken  the  sauce,  turn  it  over 
the  livers  through  a  strainer,  and  it  is  ready. 

The  same  may  be  done  with  the  livers  of  poultry  or  any 
other  kind  of  birds;  the  seasonings  are  the  same,  and  the 
proportion  is  according  to  the  size  or  to  the  number  of 
livers. 

Besides  being  used  as  garnishing,  it  may  be  served  as 
a  breakfast  dish. 

Macedoine. — Blanch  a  dozen  of  Brussels  cabbages. 
Blanch  also  half  a  dozen  asparagus  cut  in  pieces  about  an 
inch  long.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on 
the  fire,  and  when  melted  put  it  into  a  gill  of  carrots,  same 
of  turnips,  both  cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  also  a  dozen 
snmll  onions ;  stir  now  and  then  till  the  whole  is  about 


116  FAECES   AND   GAENITUKES. 

half  done,  when  add  a  little  over  a  pint  of  broth  and  the 
Brussels  cabbages;  boil  about  ten  minutes.  Then  add 
again  the  blanched  asparagus,  half  a  dozen  mushrooms, 
broth  just  enough  to  cover  the  whole,  simmer  till  every 
thing  is  done,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  a  pinch  of  sugar 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Water  may  be  used  instead  of  broth,  but  is  inferior. 

A  macedoine  may  be  served  with  any  meat — roasted, 
bated,  or  broiled. 

With  Mushroons. — Chop  fine  half  a  pint  of  fresh 
mushroons  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  parsley.  Set  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two  ounces  of  fat  grated  salt 
pork  in  it,  as  much  butter,  and  as  soon  as  the  butter  is 
melted  put  the  mushrooms  and  parsley  in ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  white  wine ;  let  boil  gently  till  reduced  to  a  jelly,  and 
use. 

When  done,  three  or  four  yolks  of  eggs  may  be  mixed 
with  it. 

With  Onions. — Put  a  dozen  onions  in  a  crockery 
saucepan  and  half  cover  them  with  broth.  Cover  the  pan 
as  well  as  possible,  simmer  till  cooked,  when  add  a  tea- 
epoonful  of  sugar,  salt,  simmer  again  for  about  ten  min- 
utes, basting  now  and  then,  and  serve  warm  with  beef, 
mutton,  or  venison. 

Quenelles. — Chop  fine  one  pound  of  fresh  veal,  half 
lean  and  half  fat — the  fat  nearest  the  kidney  is  the  best ; 
then  pound  it  well  and  mash  it  through  a  sieve.  Mix  two 
yolks  of  eggs  with  it,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pep- 
per, nutmeg  grated,  and  powdered  cinnamon.  Spread 
flour  on  the  paste-board,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  meat  here 
and  there ;  roll  gently  each  part  into  small  balls,  using  as 
little  flour  as  possible.  They  may  also  be  rolled  of  an 


FAECES   AND   GAENITUBES.  117 

olive  shape.  Throw  the  balls  into  boiling  broth  or  boiling 
water  at  the  first  boiling,  boil  five  minutes  and  drain.  As 
soon  as  cold  they  are  ready  for  use. 

JBoulettes,  fricadelles,  godiveau,  and  quenelles  are  one 
and  the  same  thing. 

Whole  eggs  may  be  used  instead  of  the  yolks  only, 
add  also  a  few  bread-crumbs.  To  the  seasonings  above 
some  parsley  chopped  fine  may  be  added. 

Make  quenelles  with  any  kind  of  meat — butcher's  meat, 
poultry,  and  game,  also  with  fish  well  boned. 

To  the  lean  meat  add  the  same  weight  of  fat  veal,  as 
above  directed,  or,  in  its  stead,  beef  suet. 

Truffles  or  mushrooms,  or  both,  may  be  added  to  the 
mixture,  either  of  meat  or  of  fish. 

Quenelles  are  used  for  garnitures,  etc.  They  may  be 
fried  instead  of  boiled. 

Salpicon.—Cut  in  dice  an  equal  quantity  of  each,  and 
to  weigh  altogether  about  one  pound  and  a  half,  calf 
sweetbreads,  livers,  or  flesh  of  fowls,  and  ham — three 
kinds  in  all;  also  two  mushrooms  and  two  truffles;  all 
must  be  nearly  cooked  in  water  beforehand.  Put  them  in 
a  stewpan,  season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove  of 
garlic,  an  onion,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  and  one  of  thyme; 
cover  with  half  a  pint  of  broth,  and  as  much  of  white 
wine ;  set  on  a  slow  fire ;  it  must  not  boil,  but  simmer 
gently;  stir  now  and  then  till  the  whole  is  well  cooked; 
take  out  the  bay-leaf,  onion,  garlic,  parsley,  and  thyme.  In 
case  the  sauce  should  not  be  thick  enough,  add  a  little 
fecula,  stir,  and  leave  awhile  longer  on  the  fire,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use. 

With  Truffles. — Slice  the  truffles  and  put  them  in  a 
saucepan  with  a  pinch  of  sugar,  broth  and  claret  wine 
enough  to  cover  them,  half  of  each,  simmer  for  about 


118  FAECES   AND   GARNITURES. 

twenty  minutes,  add  a  little  potato  starch,  boil  gently  till 
it  begins  to  thicken,  and  use. 

Lobster  Butter. — Put  the  flesh  of  the  two  large  claws 
of  a  boiled  lobster  with  a  little  of  the  inside,  about  a 
tablespoonful,  in  a  mortar  and  pound  well.  Add  about 
the  same  volume  of  good  butter  and  pound  again  till  the 
whole  is  well  mixed.  It  is  then  mashed  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  is  ready  for  use.  When  the  lobster  has  coral,  it  is 
pounded  with  the  rest,  and  gives  a  fine  color  to  the  butter. 

If  the  lobster  has  no  coral,  a  piece  of  the  reddest  part 
of  the  shell  is  pounded  with  the  rest,  when  the  butter,  is 
to  be  colored. 

This  butter  may  be  used  instead  of  ordinary  butter 
for  fish-sauces,  or  for  making  a  maitre  d'hotel  for  boiled 
fish,  or  for  garnishing  the  same. 

To  clarify  it,  just  put  the  butter  into  a  bowl  when 
made,  put  the  bowl  in  a  boiling  bain-marie  for  about  half 
an  hour,  take  off  and  immediately  turn  it  through  a  cloth 
into  a  bowl  half  full  of  cold  water.  The  cloth  must  be 
rather  twisted,  to  cause  the  butter  to  run  through.  When 
it  is  in  the  bowl,  stir  it  till  rather  hard ;  work  it  in  a  ball, 
and  wipe  it  dry. 

Thus  clarified  it  is  finer  than  when  used  merely  mixed. 

The  same  butter  may  be  made,  and  in  the  same  way, 
with  craw-fish,  prawns,  and  shrimps. 

JETorse-radish  Butter.— Grate  some  horse-radish  and 
mix  it  well  with  about  the  same  volume  of  butter,  mash 
through  a  sieve,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Tarragon  and  garlic  butter  are  made  as  the  above. 

If  the  butter  be  found  too  strong,  use  more  butter  and 
less  of  garlic,  etc. 

Ravigote  Butter  (called  also  Beurre  de  Montpellier). — 
Blanch  the  following  spices:  parsley,  tarragon,  chives, 


FARCES   AND   GARNITURES.  119 

chervil — parsley  and  chervil  in  equal  proportion  and  about 
half  as  much  of  the  two  others,  about  two  handfuls  alto 
gether — drain  dry  and  put  them  in  a  mortar  with  two 
anchovies  boned,  one  shallot  chopped  and  bruised  in  a 
coarse  towel,  half  a  dozen  capers,  a  rather  small  piece  of 
pickled  cucumber,  four  ounces  of  butter,  two  hard-boiled 
yolks  of  eggs,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Pound  the 
whole  well  together,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  essence 
of  spinach,  mix  well,  mash  through  a  sieve,  and  use. 

This  butter  is  excellent  to  decorate  and  to  eat  with  cold 
fish.  It  is  sometimes  used  with  cold  birds. 

Hazel-nut  JButter.—'Pound  some  hazel-nuts  or  filberts 
and  then  mix  throughly  with  good  butter,  mash  through 
a  sieve,  and  use  as  ordinary  butter.  Tho  proportion  ac- 
cording to  taste.  It  is  easily  prepared,  and  is  delicious. 

Do  the  same  with  pea-nuts,  or  any  other  nut. 

Melted  flutter. — Put  butter  in  a  crockery  vessel  anc 
place  it  above  a  pan  of  water  or  some  other  liquid,  heatea 
but  not  boiling,  so  that  the  butter  will  melt  slowly  and 
gradually.  Sometimes  the  butter  may  be  wanted  soft  only, 
or  what  is  called  melted  soft,  or  thoroughly  melted.  It  is 
easy  to  obtain  those  different  states  above  with  heated 
liquor,  and  the  butter,  though  melted,  is  more  firm  than 
when  melted  on  the  fire. 

Scented  Butter. — Whenever  a  certain  flavor  is  desired 
with  butter,  put  a  piece  of  firm  and  good  butter  in  a  bowl 
with  a  few  drops  of  essence,  knead  well,  and  then  mash 
through  a  sieve. 

PUREES. 

Purees  are  made  with  vegetables,  but  when  the  flesh 
of  poultry  or  other  birds  is  mashed  through  a  sieve  after 
being  cooked,  it  is  sometimes  called  a  puree  also. 


120  FAECES   AND   GAKNITTJEES. 

The  bones  of  a  ham,  after  the  flesh  is  disposed  of,  is 
the  most  excellent  thing  you  can  put  with  the  vegetables 
to  boil  them  in  order  to  make  purees. 

One-third  of  the  bones  of  a  middling-sized  ham  is 
enough  for  about  a  quart  of  vegetables. 

When  you  have  no  ham  bones,  use  four  ounces  of 
good  salt  pork,  as  lean  as  possible ;  but  never  use  smoked 
pork,  it  gives  a  disagreeable  taste  to  the  puree. 

Of  Dry  Beans,  white  or  colored,  Kidney,  Lima,  or  any 
other  kind. — Dry  beans  must  be  soaked  in  cold  water,  or 
even  in  lukewarm  water,  when  in  a  hurry.  According  to 
the  nature  of  the  beans,  they  must  be  soaked  for  from  six 
to  twenty-four  hours. 

Soak  a  quart  of  beans  as  directed  above ;  drain  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  one-third  of  the  bones  of  a  ham, 
or  about  four  ounces  of  salt  pork ;  cover  with  cold  water, 
season  with  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  of  parsley, 
two  middling-sized  onions,  with  two  cloves  stuck  in  them, 
and  a  carrot  cut  in  pieces ;  when  the  whole  is  well  cooked, 
throw  away  thy  me,  bay-leaf,  onions,  and  cloves;  mash  well 
through  a  colander  all  the  rest  except  the  bacon. 

While  mashing  them  through  the  colander,  wet  them 
with  some  of  the  water  in  which  they  have  boiled,  else  it 
would  be  difficult  and  long. 

When  mashed,  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
broth  or  water,  salt,  and  two  ounces  of  butter ;  stir  now 
and  then  till  the  butter  is  melted  and  thoroughly  mixed 
with  the  rest,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  quantity  of 
broth  or  water  is  according  to  how  thick  or  thin  they 
are  wanted.  The  salt  pork  is  good  to  eat. 

Of  Lentils. — It  is  made  in  the  same  way  as  that  of 
beans,  except  that  they  do  not  require  to  be  soaked  more 
than  five  or  six  hours  in  cold  water. 


FAECES   AND  GARNITURES  121 

Of  Peas  (dry  or  split). — Proceed  as  for  lentils  in 
every  particular. 

Of  Chestnuts. — Remove  the  skin  of  a  quart  of  chest- 
nuts and  drop  them  in  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt  As 
soon  as  the  under  skin  comes  off  easily,  take  them  from 
the  fire,  drain,  drop  them  in  cold  water,  and  then  remove 
the  under  or  white  skin ;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
about  one  quart  of  broth,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  gently 
till  well  done,  and  mash  through  a  colander. 

Then  put  the  chestnuts,  and  what  is  left  of  the  broth, 
in  a  saucepan,  set  on  the  fire,  stir,  add  a  pinch  of  sugar 
and  an  ounce  of  butter ;  give  one  boil,  and  it  is  made. 

Of  Green  Peas. — Wash  a  quart  of  green  peas  in  cold 
water,  and  drain ;  put  two  quarts  of  cold  water  on  the  fire 
in  a  saucepan,  with  a  little  salt,  and  at  the  first  boil  throw 
the  peas  in,  season  with  three  or  four  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  two  onions,  and  two  cloves,  a  carrot  in 
slices,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  till  tender.  It  may  take  only 
two  minutes,  or  it  may  require  half  an  hour,  according  to 
how  tender  the  peas  are. 

Mash  through  a  colander,  and  finish  like  puree  of 
beans,  using  either  broth  or  water.  With  broth  it  is 
richer  and  better. 

Of  Lima  Beans. — Proceed  for  green  Limas  as  for 
green  peas. 

Of  Sweet  Corn. — It  is  made  like  that  of  green  peas. 

Of  Asparagus. — Cut  the  eatable  part  of  the  asparagus 
in  pieces,  and  proceed  as  for  puree  of  green  peas. 

Of  Potatoes. — Steam  a  quart  of  potatoes,  and  then 
mash  them  well ;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint 
of  milk,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  salt ;  set  on  the  fire, 
itir  now  and  then,  take  off  and  use.  It  takes  about  fifteen 
minutes  after  being  set  back  on  the  fire. 
6 


122  FAECES   AND   GAENITUKES. 

Another  way. — Proceed  as  above,  using  broth  or  water 
instead  of  milk. 

Of  Jerusalem  Artichokes. — Prepared  as  potatoes. 

Of  Carrots. — Clean  well,  and  cut  in  slices,  a  dozen 
middling-sized  carrots ;  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  four 
ounces  of  butter,  and  set  on  the  fire ;  when  about  half 
fried,  cover  with  broth  or  water ;  season  with  half  a  bay- 
leaf,  a  small  sprig  of  thyme,  one  of  parsley,  a  small  onion, 
and  a  clove  stuck  in  it ;  when  the  whole  is  well  cooked, 
throw  away  onion,  clove,  bay-leaf,  and  thyme,  mash  the 
rest  through  a  colander ;  then  put  back  on  the  fire,  with  a 
little  butter ;  simmer  for  about  two  hours,  stirring  occa- 
sionally, and  it  is  made. 

In  case  it  should  turn  too  thick,  add  broth  or  water. 

The  longer  they  are  simmered,  the  better  the  taste. 

Of  Turnips. — Proceed  as  with  carrots  in  every  par- 
ticular. 

Of  Celery. — It  is  always  made  with  turnip-rooted 
celery.  Clean  the  celery  well,  wash  and  cut  it  in  pieces, 
and  prepare  as  puree  of  carrots,  adding  a  teaspoonful  of 
sugar. 

Of  Cauliflowers. — Separate  the  branches,  and  throw 
them  in  boiling  water  and  salt;  boil  two  minutes  and 
drain.  Put  them  on  the  fire  with  broth  or  water,  enough 
just  to  cover  them,  two  or  three  stalks  of  parsley,  and  salt 
to  season. 

Boil  gently  till  tender;  remove  the  parsley;  mash 
through  a  colander ;  put  back  on  the  fire  with  a  little  but- 
ter and  white  pepper,  simmer  about  ten  minutes,  stirring 
mow  and  then  the  while,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Instead  of  butter,  some  cream  may  be  added. 

Of  Pumpkin. — Made  exactly  the  same  as  that  of  cauli- 
flowers, after  the  pumpkin  is  peeled  and  cut  in  pieces. 


FAECES   AND   GABNTTUBES.  123 

Of  Squash. — Same  as  pumpkin. 

Of  Spinach. — Clean  the  spinach,  and  cut  off  the  stem; 
the  leaf  only  is  good ;  wash  and  drain  it ;  put  cold  water 
and  a  little  salt  on  the  fire,  and  throw  the  spinach  in  at 
the  first  boil.  When  tender,  drain  and  drop  immediately 
in  cold  water;  drain  again,  and  then  chop  it  very  fine. 
After  being  chopped,  it  may  be  mashed  through  a  sieve, 
to  have  it  finer ;  put  it  back  on  the  fire  without  any  water 
at  all,  and  when  it  gets  rather  dry,  add  a  little  flour ;  stir 
and  mix ;  add  again  a  little  gravy  or  good  broth ;  stir, 
then  salt  to  taste,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

If  the  spinach  is  young  and  tender,  it  takes  only  two 
or  three  minutes  boiling  before  chopping  it. 

From  the  time  it  is  put  back  on  the  fire,  it  takes  about 
five  or  six  minutes  to  finish  it. 

Of  Sorrel. — Proceed  as  with  spinach  in  every  particu- 
lar. 

Of  Mushrooms. — Clean  well  and  cut  in  pieces  a  quart 
of  fresh  mushrooms ;  soak  them  in  cold  water,  in  which 
you  have  put  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  drain,  and  chop  them 
fine.  Put  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  with  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  duck's  egg ;  when  melted,  put  your  mush- 
rooms in ;  when  half  fried,  add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  finish 
frying,  then  cover  with  some  roux-sauce  ;  let  simmer  till 
it  becomes  rather  thick,  strain  and  use. 

Of  Onions. — Peel,  quarter,  and  blanch  for  eight  min- 
utes, a  dozen  onions.  Drain  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  four  or  six  ounces  of  butter,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  onions ;  set  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  now  and  then  till  well 
done;  then  season  with  salt,  a  little  flour,  stir  for  two 
minutes  to  cook  the  flour,  and  mix  it  thoroughly  with  the 
rest ;  take  from  the  fire ;  add  cream,  little  by  little,  stirring 
the  while.  It  does  not  require  much  cream  to  make  the 


124  FAECES   AND   GAKNHCKES. 

puree  of  a  proper  thickness.  Mash  through  a  sieve  or  fine 
colander,  add  a  pinch  of  sugar,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

It  makes  an  excellent  pureej  and  is  good  served  with 
nearly  every  kind  of  meat. 

Made  with  white  onions,  and  properly  mashed  through 
a  sieve,  it  looks  like  cream,  and  is  almost  as  white  as 
enow. 


FISH. 


THE  Indians  bleed  the  fish  as  soon  as  caught,  because 
tLc  flesh  is  firmer  when  cooked. 

The  Dutch  and  the  French  bleed  the  cod,  which  ac- 
counts for  the  better  quality  and  whiteness  of  their  cod- 
fish. 

To  select. — To  be  good,  fish  must  be  fresh.  It  is 
fresh  when  the  eyes  are  clear,  the  fins  stiff,  the  gills  red, 
hard  to  open,  and  without  bad  odor. 

To  clean  and  prepare  for  boiling.— The  sooner  fish  is 
cleaned  the  better.  Cut  the  belly  open,  take  the  inside 
out,  wash  well  and  wipe  dry  immediately  with  a  clean 
towel,  inside  and  out.  Place  the  eggs  or  soft  roes  inside, 
and  tie  with  twine.  It  is  then  ready  to  be  boiled. 

If  not  cooked  as  soon  as  cleaned  and  prepared,  keep 
it  on  ice. 

To  clean  and  prepare  for  baking,  frying,  roasting,  and 
to  cut  in  pieces,  etc. — Scale  the  fish  well,  holding  it  by  the 
head  or  tail ;  cut  the  belly  open  and  take  the  inside  out ; 
trim  off  the  fins,  gills,  and  tail ;  wash  well  inside  and  out, 
and  wipe  dry  immediately. 

Keep  it  on  ice  if  not  used  immediately. 

Same  Family,  or  Kind. — We  give  only  one  receipt  for 
all  the  fishes  of  the  same  family,  or  having  the  same  kind 


126  FISH. 

of  flesh,  as  they  are  cooked  alike,  and  require  the  same 
spices. 

Almost  every  kind  of  fish  is  boiled,  broiled,  fried,  or 
stewed.  Some  are  better  boiled  than  broiled,  others  bet- 
ter fried  than  stewed,  etc.  With  few  exceptions,  any  eat- 
able fish  may  be  cooked  in  these  four  ways.  Few  are 
roasted. 

To  know  when  cooked  enough. — It  is  very  difficult,  if 
not  entirely  impossible,  to  tell  how  long  it  takes  to  cook 
fish,  as  it  depends  as  much  on  the  size,  kind,  or  quality  of 
the  fish  as  on  the  fire ;  but  as  soon  as  the  flesh  comes  off 
the  bones  easily,  the  fish  is  cooked ;  this  is  very  easy  to  be 
ascertained  with  a  knife. 

To  improve. — Clean  the  fish  as  for  baking,  etc.,  and  lay 
it  in  a  crockery  vessel  with  the  following  seasonings  under 
and'  upon  it :  parsley  and  onions  chopped  fine,  salt,  pep- 
per, thyme,  bay-leaves,  and  vinegar  or  oil ;  turn  it  over 
occasionally,  and  leave  thus  for  two  or  three  hours. 

To  bone. — Slit  the  fish  on  one  side  of  the  backbone 
and  fins,  from  head  to  tail ;  then  run  the  knife  between 
the  bones  and  the  flesh  so  as  to  detach  the  whole  side 
from  the  rest ;  do  the  same  for  the  other  side. 

For  a  flounder,  or  any  other  flat  fish,  slit  right  in  the 
middle  of  both  sides  of  the  fish  so  as  to  make  four  in- 
stead of  two  pieces. 

The  head,  bones,  and  fins  are  not  used  at  all,  and  are 
left  in  one  piece. 

To  serve,  when  boiled. — The  fish  is  placed  on  a  napkin 
and  on  a  dish  or  platter,  surrounded  with  parsley,  and  the 
sauce  served  in  a  saucer. 

To  skin. — Take  hold  of  the  piece  of  fish  by  the  smaller 
end,  and  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  left  hand ; 
run  the  knife  between  the  flesh  and  skin,  moving  the  knifo 


FISH.  12T 

to  and  fro  as  if  you  were  sawing.  Throw  away  the  skin, 
and  the  fish  is  ready  for  cooking. 

If  the  skin  were  breaking,  as  it  happens  sometime?, 
tuke  hold  of  it  again,  and  proceed  as  before. 

To  decorate. — Fish  may  be  decorated  with  jelly,  but 
it  is  easier  and  more  sightly  with  craw-fish.  The  skewers 
are  stuck  in  the  fish  as  they  are  in  a  fillet  of  beef. 

The  craw-fish  when  boiled  are  red  like  the  lobster,  and, 
besides  using  them  with  skewers,  some  may  be  placed  all 
around  the  fish ;  it  is  delicate  eating  as  well  as  sightly. 
Skewers  are  never  used  with  fish  in  vinaigrette,  or  when  the 
fish  is  cut  in  pieces.  The  craw-fish  has  only  to  be  boiled 
before  using  it  for  decorating  fish. 

Shrimps  and  prawns  are  used  the  same  as  craw-fish. 

Oysters  are  also  used,  raw  or  blanched ;  run  the  skewer 
through  a  large  oyster  or  craw-fish,  then  through  a  slice 
of  truffle ;  again  through  an  oyster,  truffle,  etc. ;  through 
two,  three,  or  more  of  each,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
skewer  or  of  the  fish. 

Fish-kettle. — A  fish-kettle  must  have  a  double  bottom. 
It  is  more  handy  to  take  the  fish  off  without  breaking  it, 


and  there  is  no  danger  of  having  it  spoiled  while  cooking, 
Fish-kettles  are  found  in  every  house-furnishing  store. 


128  FISH. 

Baked. — Clean  and  prepare  the  fish,  as  directed  foi 
baking ;  put  it  in  a  baking-pan  with  salt,  pepper,  and  but- 
ter spread  all  over  it ;  just  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan 
with  water  or  broth  ;  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  over 
it  and  bake.  Baste  two  or  three  times;  take  off  when 
done,  and  serve  warm  with  a  sauce. 

While  the  fish  is  baking  you  prepare  the  sauce,  put  it 
in  a  boat,  and  serve  warm  with  the  fish. 

A  baked  fish  may  be  served  with  its  gravy  only,  add- 
ing a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  or  with  any 
kind  of  sauce,  according  to  taste. 

Balls. — Fish-balls  are  often  called  fish-calces  or  fish- 
croquettes.  They  are  generally  made  with  cold  fish,  but 
it  may  be  cooked  especially  to  make  balls. 

Fish,  full  of  bones,  like  shad,  is  not  fit  to  make  balls ; 
cod  is  the  easiest. 

Commence  by  chopping  the  flesh  very  fine,  then  chop 
fine  also  a  small  piece  of  onion  and  fry  it  with  butter 
(half  a  middling-sized  onion  with  two  ounces  of  butter  are 
enough  for  half  a  pound  of  fish)  ;  when  fried  stir  in  it  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  about  half  a  minute  after  turn 
the  fish  in  with  about  a  gill  of  broth  or  water,  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  pinch  of  nutmeg ;  stir  till  it  turns  rather  thick,  which 
will  take  two  or  three  minutes ;  take  from  the  fire,  mix  two 
yolks  of  eggs  with  it ;  put  back  on  the  fire  for  about  one 
minute,  stirring  the  while ;  then  add  two  or  three  mush- 
rooms or  one  truffle,  or  both,  chopped  fine.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  a  dish,  spread  it,  and  put  it  away  to  cool  for 
two  or  three  hours,  or  over  night. 

Before  cooking,  mix  the  whole  well,  the  upper  part 
being  more  dry  than  that  which  is  under;  put  it  in  parts 
on  the  paste-board,  roll  each  part  to  the  shape  you  wish, 
either  round,  oval,  or  flat ;  the  paste-board  may  be  dusted 


FISH.  129 

with  bread-crumbs  or  flour  to  help  in  handling  the  mixture , 
then  boil  or  fry,  according  to  taste. 

It  may  also  be  baked  in  cakes. 

When  fried,  they  may  be  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  rolled 
in  bread-crumbs,  and  then  fried  in  hot  fat.  (See  FRYING.) 

Boiled. — Clean  and  prepare  the  fish  as  directed,  and 
put  it  in  a  fish-kettle ;  cover  it  with  cold  water  (sea-water 
is  the  best) ;  add  the  following  seasonings  to  a  pound  of 
fish :  two  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  tarragon  if  handy,  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  half  a  middling- sized  onion 
sliced ;  salt  if  boiled  in  fresh  water.  Set  on  the  fire,  and, 
for  a  fish  weighing  two  pounds  or  under,  take  off  at  the 
first  boiling — it  is  done  enough.  For  a  fish  weighing  five 
pounds,  boil  five  minutes,  etc.,  that  is,  about  one  minute 
for  each  pound.  If  it  were  a  thick  slice  of  fish  instead  of 
a  whole  one,  weighing  two  or  three  pounds,  it  should  be 
boiled  two  or  three  minutes  longer,  etc.,  according  to 
thickness. 

Broiled. — Slit  the  fish  on  the  back  and  clean  it ;  salt 
and  pepper  it ;  have  a  little  melted  butter  and  spread  it  all 
over  the  fish,  on  both  sides,  with  a  brush,  and  broil  it. 
(See  BROILING.) 

While  the  fish  is  broiling,  prepare  a  maitre  d 'hotel 
sauce,  spread  it  on  the  fish  as  soon  as  dished,  and  serve. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  anchovy  butter. 

Fried. — Any  small  fish  of  the  size  of  a  smelt,  or  smaller, 
is  better  fried  than  prepared  in  any  other  way. 

Clean  and  prepare  the  fish  as  directed,  wipe  it  dry. 
Dip  it  in  milk,  place  in  a  colander  for  five  minutes,  then 
roll  in  flour,  and  fry.  It  may  also  be  fried  just  rolled  in  flour. 

Another  way. — When  wiped  dry,  dip  in  beaten  egg, 
toll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry. 

Another. — When  wiped  dry,  dip  the  fish  in  buttei,  «md 
6* 


130  FISH. 

fry.  Then  the  fish  is  dropped  in  hot  fat  (see  FRYING), 
turned  into  a  colander,  salted,  and  served  hot,  with  fried 
parsley  around  or  in  the  middle,  according  to  how  the  fish 
is  arranged  in  the  dish. 

Fry  the  following  as  above :  carp,  tench,  frost,  bass, 
perch,  black  and  blue  fish,  gold,  loach,  mullet,  porgy,  weak, 
flounder,  pike,  pickerel,  smelt,  sun,  herring,  and  white-fish 
of  the  lakes. 

A  la  Orly. — If  it  is  small  fish,  like  the  smelt,  it  is  pre- 
pared whole ;  if  the  fish  is  larger,  it  must  be  boned  and 
skinned,  and  cut  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long.  Roll 
the  fish,  or  pieces  of  fish,  slightly  in  flour;  dip  it  in  beaten 
egg,  and  roll  it  again  in  bread-crumbs ;  then  fry  it  in  hot 
fat  as  above. 

When  fried,  serve  it  with  a  tomato-sauce. 

The  fish  may  be  served  on  a  napkin  in  a  dish,  and  the 
sauce  in  a  boat  or  saucer. 

Roasted. — The  following  fishes  only  are  roasted :  eel, 
salmon,  shad,  pike,  turbot. 

Clean  and  prepare  as  directed,  and  then  tie  with  twine. 
Spread  salt,  pepper,  and  melted  butter  (with  a  brush)  all 
over  the  fish,  and  then  envelop  it  in  buttered  paper ;  set 
on  the  spit  and  roast.  Baste  with  a  little  melted  butter, 
and  remove  the  paper  about  five  minutes  before  it  is  done. 

When  on  the  dish  the  twine  is  cut  off  and  removed, 
and  it  is  served  as  hot  as  possible  with  the  following  sauces, 
to  which  tarragon  is  added  in  making  them,  ii  handy : 
caper,  Hollandaise,  Mayonnaise,  piquante,  poivrade,  and 
remolade.  A  roast  fish  is  served  after  roast  meat. 

Another  way. — Clean,  and  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch 
thick,  or  leave  entire,  as  it  suits  you ;  skin  it  well ;  lay  it 
in  a  crockery  vessel,  spread  over  it  some  chopped  parsley, 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  two  gills  of  white  wine 


FISH.  131 

(tliis  is  for  about  three  pounds),  leave  thus  two  hours ; 
then  take  the  fish  only,  envelop  it  in  buttered  paper,  fix  it 
on  the  spit  before  a  good  fire,  baste  with  the  wine  and 
seasonings  from  the  crockery  dish,  and  when  nearly  done 
take  the  paper  off;  finish  the  cooking,  basting  the  while, 
and  serve  with  the  drippings,  to  which  you  may  add  a  lit- 
tle vinegar,  sweet-oil,  and  mustard. 

If  there  is  any  left,  you  can  serve  it  cold  the  next  day 
with  an  oil-sauce. 

Saute. — Scale,  clean,  and  prepare  the  fish  as  directed. 
For  one  pound  of  fish  put  about  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  put  the  fish  in ; 
fry  it  on  both  sides,  and  serve  it  with  a  maitre  cTkotel. 

Stewed. — Clean  and  prepare  as  directed  three  pounds 
of  fish,  cut  it  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long.  Put  in  a 
fish-kettle  four  ounces  of  butter,  kneaded  with  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  flour,  and  the  same  of  chopped  parsley,  add  two  or 
three  mushrooms  cut  in  pieces,  salt  and  pepper,  then  the 
fish  and  a  glass  of  claret  wine,  or  a  wine-glass  of  vinegar ; 
cover  with  water,  set  on  a  good  fire,  boil  gently  till  cooked ; 
dish  the  pieces  of  fish,  strain  the  sauce  on  them,  spread 
the  pieces  of  mushrooms  over,  and  serve. 

Stuffed. — When  cleansed,  cut  out  the  backbone  from 
the  head  to  within  two  inches  of  the  tail,  and  fill  its  place 
with  the  following  mixture :  soak  stale  bread  in  cold  water 
and  then  squeeze  the  water  out ;  put  one  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  as  soon  as  melted, 
fry  in  it  one  middle-sized  onion,  chopped  fine ;  then  add  the 
bread ;  stir  for  two  minutes,  add  also  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch 
of  nutmeg,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth ;  stir  again 
two  or  three  minutes ;  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  add  a 
yolk  of  egg,  put  back  on  the  fire  for  half  a  minute,  stir- 
ring the  while,  take  off  again,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 


132  FISH. 

parsley,  and  use.  When  full,  tie  the  fish  with  twine ;  place 
it  in  a  baking-pan,  salt  and  pepper  it ;  spread  a  little  but- 
ter on  it  also ;  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  wa- 
ter, bake  and  serve  with  its  gravy. 

If  there  is  not  gravy  enough,  or  if  it  has  dried  away, 
add  a  little  broth  a  few  minutes  before  taking  from  the 
oven. 

Fish  au  Gratin. — Bone  and  skin  the  fish  as  directed. 
For  a  fish  weighing  about  two  pounds,  spread  one  ounce 
of  butter  on  a  tin  plate  or  baking-pan,  spread  over  it  half 
an  onion,  chopped ;  place  the  pieces  of  fish  on  them ;  add 
salt,  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  or  a  wine-glass  of 
white  wine,  and  half  an  ounce  of  butter;  spread  over  and 
bake. 

While  it  is  baking,  put  in  a  small  saucepan  one  ounce 
of  butter,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  add  half  a 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir,  and,  when  it  is  turning  yellow, 
add  also  about  one  gill  of  broth,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
meat-gravy,  the  juice  of  the  fish  when  baked  (if  the  fish. 
be  not  done  when  the  time  comes  to  put  the  juice  in  the 
pan,  keep  the  pan  in  a  warm  place,  and  wait),  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  boil  gently  about  five  minutes,  stirring  occasionally. 
Place  the  fish  in  a  tin  or  silver  dish,  spread  three  or  four 
mushrooms  sliced  over  it ;  turn  the  sauce  gently  over  the 
whole,  dust  with  bread-crumbs ;  put  half  an  ounce  of  but- 
ter, in  four  or  five  pieces,  on  the  whole  ;  bake  ten  or  twelve 
minutes,  and  serve  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is. 

In  Matelote. — Every  kind  of  fish  is  good  in  matelote, 
but  the  following  are  the  best :  bass,  black-fish,  blue-fish, 
carp,  eelj  perch,  pickerel,  pike,  porgy,  tench,  trout,  and  craw- 
fish. 

A  matelote  may  be  made  of  eels  alone,  but  it  is  bettci 
with  eels  and  one,  two,  or  three  other  kinds  of  fish. 


FISH.  133 

Eels  tasting  of  mud  are  DO!  good.  There  is  a  sure 
way  of  taking  away  the  muddy  taste,  but  it  is  a  rather 
expensive  one.  Boil  them  a  few  minutes  iu  claret  wine 
and  a  little  salt,  before  using  them. 

Clean,  and  prepare  as  directed,  one  pound  of  eels,  one 
pound  of  pike,  and  one  pound  of  trout,  or  one  pound  of 
any  of  the  fishes  named  above — in  all,  three  pounds.  Cut 
the  fish  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long,  fry  it  slightly  with 
a  little  butter,  and  put  it  away  for  awhile. 

Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on 
the  fire ;  when  melted,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
stir,  and,  when  the  flour  is  turning  rather  brown,  add  also 
about  a  quart  of  broth,  a  pint  of  claret,  a  bunch  of  sea- 
sonings, composed  of  half  a  dozen  stalks  of  parsley,  two 
of  thyme,  two  bay-leaves,  and  two  cloves,  also  salt,  pepper, 
two  cloves  of  garlic,  and  six  button  onions;  boil  gently 
for  about  half  an  hour.  Then  put  the  fish  in  with  from 
six  to  twelve  mushrooms,  broth  enough  to  cover  the  whole, 
if  the  broth  and  wine  already  in  do  not  cover  it ;  boil 
gently  for  about  half  an  hour,  or  till  the  fish  is  cooked, 
tossing  the  saucepan  now  and  then  ;  dish  the  fish  ;  place 
the  mushrooms  and  onions  all  over;  sprinkle  the  sauce 
over  it  through  a  strainer,  and  serve  warm.  Croutons  may 
be  served  around. 

Another,  or  Mariniere. — Prepare  and  cut  the  fish  as 
for  the  above,  but  instead  of  frying  it  put  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan, into  which  you  have  put  previously  about  half  a 
dozen  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  bay-leaves,  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  twelve  small  onions,  two  cloves,  salt,  and 
pepper;  when  the  fish  is  placed  over  the  above  seasonings, 
cover  entirely  with  claret  wine.  Set  the  saucepan  on  a 
sharp  fire,  and,  as  soon  as  it  boils,  throw  into  it  a  glass  of 
French  brandy,  set  it  on  fire,  and  let  it  burn.  It  wil1  not 


134: 


FISH. 


bum  very  long,  but  enough  to  give  a  good  taste  to  it.  As 
soon  as  it  stops  burning,  knead  four  ounces  of  butter  with 
a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  put  it  in  the  pan;  tosa 
the  pan  gently  now  and  then  till  done.  It  takes  about 
forty  minutes  with  a  good  fire. 

When  done,  dish  the  fish  carefully,  place  the  mush- 
rooms all  over  it,  the  onions  all  around,  strain  the  sauce 
over  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 

Croutons  may  also  be  served  with  the  rest;  put  around 
the  fish  one  crouton,  then  an  onion,  and  so  on,  all 
around. 

Another. — Proceed  as  for  the  above,  in  every  particu- 
lar, except  that  you  cover  the  fish  and  seasonings  with 
broth  and  white  wine,  half  of  each,  instead  of  claret. 
Serve  in  the  same  way. 

A  matelote  may  be  made  three  or  four  days  in  advance, 
and  then  warmed  in  boiling  water  (bain-marie)  just  before 
serving  it. 

Many  prefer  a  matelote  made  four  days  before  eating 
it,  and  prepared  in  the  following  way :  When  made,  put 
it  away  to  cool  as  quickly  as  possible ;  twenty-four  hours 
after  that,  warm  it  in  boiling  water ;  cool,  and  warm  again 
in  the  same  way  once  a  day.  If  the  sauce  becomes  thick, 
add  a  little  broth.  Serve  warm. 

Vinaigrette— Boil  a  fish  as  directed,  take  it  from  the 
kettle  and  let  cool ;  then  dish  it.  Chop  fine  the  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs ;  do  the  same  with  the  two  whites  ; 
chop  also  a  handful  of  parsley.  Put  a  string  of  the  yolks 
on  both  sides  of  the  fish,  then  along  that  a  string  of  the 
whites,  and  along  these  a  string  of  the  parsley ;  along  the 
parsley,  and  about  half  an  inch  apart,  a  string  of  capers, 
Cut  a  lemon  in  sixteen  slices,  and  in  the  following  way : 
first  split  the  lemon  in  two  lengthwise,  then  split  again 


FISH.  135 

each  half  in  two  and  lengthwise  also ;  by  splitting  four 
times,  you  have  sixteen  pieces,  resembling  somewhat  the 
carpels  of  oranges.  After  the  first  splitting,  hold  the  piece 
of  lemon  with  the  nail  of  the  left  thumb,  the  rind  down- 
ward, and  always  split  lengthwise  and  in  the  middle.  Place 
eight  pieces  on  each  side  of  the  dish  and  along  the  capers, 
and  serve  cold,  with  stalks  of  parsley  on  top  of  the  fish, 
and  also  two  or  three  in  its  mouth. 

Serve  with  it  a  vinaigrette,  in  a  saucer  or  boat 

The  following  fishes,  bass,  black  and  blue  fish,  carp,  cat, 
dory,  drum,  gar,  gurnard,  herring,  king,  lump,  mackerel, 
parr,  perch,  pickerel,  pike,  pilot,  porgy,  roach,  rock,  scup, 
sucker,  sword,  tautog,  tench,  trout,  tr outlet,  weak,  and  weaver • 
after  being  baked  or  boiled  as  directed,  may  be  served  with 
the  following  sauces :  anchovy,  caper,  genevoise,  genoise,  ail 
gratin,  Hollandaise,  Italienne,  matelote,  tomato,  Tartar,  and 
vinaigrette. 

It  would  be  perfectly  useless  to  have  a  receipt  for  each 
fish,  since  the  preparation  is  the  same. 

The  same  fishes  are  also  prepared  au  court  bouillon. 
Clean  and  prepare  about  three  pounds  of  fish,  as  directed 
for  baking,  etc.  It  may  be  one  fish  or  several,  according 
to  size.  Place  the  fish  in  a  fish-kettle,  just  cover  it  with 
cold  water  and  a  gill  of  vinegar,  or  with  half  water  and 
half  white  wine ;  season  with  three  or  four  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley, one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  one  onion,  half  a 
carrot  (in  slices),  two  cloves  of  garlic,  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  tarragon,  if  handy.  Set  on  the  fire,  and  boil  gently 
till  done.  Dish  the  fish,  and  serve  it  warm  with  a  caper  or 
anchovy  sauce  in  a  boat,  or  with  currant  jelly. 

The  same — a  la  Bretonne. — Slit  the  fish  on  the  back, 
as  for  broiling,  and  clean  it  When  wiped  dry,  lay  it  in  a 
bake-pan  in  which  there  is  a  little  melted  butter,  the  in- 


136  FISH. 

side  of  the  fish  under ;  place  thus  on  a  good  fire,  turn  over 
when  done  on  one  side,  and,  when  cooked,  spread  some 
maitre  d'hotel  on  it,  and  serve  warm. 

The  same — aux  fines  herbes. — Clean  and  prepare  as 
for  baking,  etc.,  and  also  improve  it  as  directed.  Envelop 
the  fish  in  buttered  paper,  and  also  the  seasonings  in  which 
it  has  been  improved,  except  the  thyme  and  bay-leaves, 
broil  it,  and  serve  with  piquante  sauce. 

Cod-fish,  cusJc,  haddock,  haJce,  halibut,  pollack,  and 
torsJc,  after  being  baked  or  boiled  as  directed,  are  served 
with  the  following  sauces : 

Anchovy,  Bechamel,  caper,  cream,  egg,  Hollandwise. 
maitre  d'hotel,  tomato,  vinaigrette. 

EEL,  CONGER,  AND  LAMPREY 

To  clean. — "When  skinned,  clean,  head,  and  tail  them. 
Then  throw  them  in  boiling  water,  in  which  you  have  put 
a  little  salt  and  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar;  leave  them  in  it 
about  five  minutes,  take  out,  and  drain. 

Broiled. — Clean  and  cut  two  pounds  of  eel,  or  of  either 
of  the  others,  in  pieces  about  three  inches  long.  Put  in  a 
stewpan  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  set  it  on 
the  fire ;  when  hot,  lay  the  eels  in,  fry  about  three  min- 
utes, turning  them  over  the  while ;  then  turn  the  whole  in- 
to a  crockery  vessel,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley 
and  onions,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  a  tablespoonful  of 
sweet-oil,  salt,  and  pepper;  set  on  the  fire  and  simmer  two 
hours ;  take  off,  roll  the  pieces  in  fine  bread-crumbs,  place 
them  on  a  gridiron,  and  on  a  good  fire,  and  serve  when 
done  with  piquante  sauce. 

From  the  nature  of  their  flesh,  eels  require  to  be  pre- 
pared thus  ;  and,  when  properly  done,  make  really  a  very 
good  dish. 


FISH.  137 

Roasted. — Prepare  the  eels  as  for  broiling,  and,  instead 
of  placing  on  the  gridiron,  envelop  them  in  oiled  paper 
and  roast  before  a  sharp  fire.  Serve  with  piquante,  ravi- 
gote,  or  Tartar  sauce. 

Fried. — Prepare  as  for  broiling  as  far  as  rolling  in 
bread-crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten-egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs 
again,  and  fry.  (See  FRYING.)  Serve  with  tomato-sauce, 
or  just  as  it  is. 

In  Maitre  d^hotel. — Clean  as  directed,  but  boil  twenty 
minutes  instead  of  five.  Serve  with  a  maitre  cThtitel  sauce 
and  steamed  potatoes,  or  with  muscle,  oyster,  shrimp,  or 
Tartar  sauce. 

In  Matelote. — (See  FISH  IN  MATELOTE.) 

Stu/ed. — Clean  as  directed;  stuff  it  with  currant 
jelly,  bake  or  roast,  and  serve  with  currant  jelly. 

Flounder  (wrongly  called  sole;  the  flounder  is  as 
good  as  the  sole — the  soles  that  may  be  found  here  are 
imported  from  Europe  or  from  Newfoundland),  dab-fish, 
and  plaice,  after  being  baked  or  boiled,  may  be  served  with 
the  following  sauces : 

Allemande,  anchovy,  anchovy-butter.  Mayonnaise,  toma- 
to, and  au  gratin. 

Baked. — Clean  three  pounds  of  the  above  fish.  Put 
in  a  crockery  dish  four  ounces  of  butter,  set  it  on  a  good 
fire,  and  when  melted  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
stirring  the  while ;  also,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt, 
pepper,  a  saltspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  or  three 
mushrooms,  also  chopped,  then  the  fish ;  pour  on  it  a  glass 
of  white  wine,  and  a  liquor-glass  of  French  brandy ;  cover 
the  dish,  take  it  from  the  fire,  and  put  it  in  a  moderately 
heated  oven,  and  serve  when  done  just  as  it  is,  and  in  the 
crockery  dish. 

A  la  Normande — Bone  and  skin  the  fish  as  directed. 


138  FISH. 

For  a  fish  weighing  four  pounds,  spread  two  ounces  of 
butter  on  the  bottom  of  a  baking-pan ;  spread  one  onion, 
chopped  fine,  over  the  butter,  and  as  much  carrot,  cut  in 
small  dice.  Place  the  fish  over  the  whole,  the  pieces  as 
they  are,  or  cut  according  to  the  size  of  the  pan,  salt  and 
pepper,  and  bake.  Take  from  the  oven  when  done  and 
dish  the  fish,  leaving  the  juice  in  the  pan ;  cut  the  stems 
of  about  a  dozen  mushrooms;  place  the  heads  on  the 
middle  of  the  fish,  and  the  stems  around  it. 

Mix  cold  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  the  same  of  but^ 
ter  in  a  saucepan,  turn  into  it  a  pint  of  broth,  set  on  the 
fire  and  stir  continually;  when  thoroughly  mixed,  turn 
into  it  also,  and  through  a  strainer,  the  juice  from  the  pan 
in  which  the  fish  has  baked ;  stir  again  two  or  three  min- 
utes ;  turn  gently  over  the  fish,  put  in  the  oven  for  about 
ten  minutes,  and  serve  hot.  Croutons  may  be  placed 
around  the  dish  as  a  decoration. 

Another  Normande. — Bone  and  skin  the  fish  as  direct- 
ed ;  butter  well  the  dish  on  which  the  fish  is  to  be  served, 
spread  some  chopped  onion  all  over,  then  place  the  fish 
over  it ;  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  and  white  wine  or  vinegar 
(a  tablespoonful  to  a  pound  of  fish),  all  over  the  fish,  and 
bake  it.  It  takes  about  fifteen  minutes  for  a  fish  weighing 
two  or  three  pounds.  Wine  is  better  than  vinegar. 

While  the  fish  is  baking,  set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire 
»vith  an  ounce  of  butter  in  it,  and  when  melted,  add 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  stir,  and  when  turning  yellow, 
add  also  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  salt,  then  the  juice 
from  the  fish  when  baked,  stir,  give  one  boil,  and  turn 
over  the  fish. 

Blanch  a  dozen  or  so  of  oysters,  place  them  all  over 
the  fish  also. 

Have  ready  two  or  three  potatoes,  cut  with  a  round 


FISH.  139 

vegetable  spoon;  boil  till  done;  place  them  around  the 
fish  as  a  border  for  it ;  dust  then  the  whole  with  bread- 
crumbs, put  in  a  warm  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  take 
off,  place  half  a  dozen  croutons  all  around  the  dish  also, 
and  serve. 

The  croutons  are  generally  cut  of  a  heart-shape.  It 
will  be  easily  done  if  the  directions  are  followed  properly 
and  carefully. 

Commence  by  cutting  the  bread,  then  cut  the  pota- 
toes, and  set  them  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and  salt ; 
while  they  are  cooking,  prepare  the  fish  and  set  it  in  the 
oven ;  while  this  is  baking,  make  the  sauce,  fry  the  crou- 
tons, and  blanch  the  oysters.  If  the  fish  is  baked  be- 
fore the  rest  are  ready,  take  it  off  and  keep  warm  till 
wanted.  It  makes  a  sightly  and  excellent  dish. 

The  same  fried. — Small  flounders  are  fried  like  other 
small  fish,  and  served  either  with  or  without  a  tomato- 
sauce  or  a  la  Orly. 

The  same,  boned  and  fried. — Bone  and  skin  small 
flounders  as  directed ;  mix  together  a  tablespoonful  of  oil, 
a  teaspoon ful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  salt;  dip  the  pieces  of  fish  in  the  mixture,  dust  them 
slightly  with  flour,  and  fry.  Serve  hot. 

Pike,  Pickerel,  and  Trout  or  Troutlet. — Those  three 
fish,  besides  being  prepared  as  directed  for  bass,  etc.,  and 
in  all  its  different  ways,  they  are  boiled  as  directed  and 
served  warm,  with  a  genoise  sauce. 

A  more  delicious  dish  of  fish  can  hardly  be  prepared. 

Ray,  Skate,  and  Angel  or  Monk  fah. — Ray,  though 
excellent,  is  very  little  known;  there  is  only  one  place 
at  which  it  can  be  bought — Washington  Market,  New 
fork. 

It  is  unquestionably  an  excellent  dish,  prepared  au 


140  FISH. 

beurre  noir.  When  clean,  boil  the  fish  as  directed,  and 
dish  it,  sprinkling  salt  and  pepper  on  it. 

While  it  is  boiling,  put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  to 
a  pound  of  fish  in  a  frying-pan,  set  it  on  a  sharp  fire,  stir 
now  and  then,  and  when  brown,  throw  into  it  about  six 
sprigs  of  parsley,  which  you  take  off  immediately  with  a 
skimmer.  As  soon  as  the  parsley  is  taken  off,  pour  the 
butter  over  the  fish,  quickly  put  two  tablespooniuls  of 
vinegar  in  the  frying-pan  and  over  the  fire,  give  one  boil, 
and  pour  also  over  the  fish.  Frying  the  parsley  and  boil- 
ing the  vinegar  cannot  be  done  too  fast,  as  the  fish  must 
be  served  very  warm.  The  wanner  it  is  served,  the  better 
it  is. 

Salmon,  sturgeon,  and  white-fish,  after  being  baked 
or  boiled,  may  be  served  with  a  caper,  and  also  with  a 
Mayonnaise  sauce.  They  may  also  be  served  in  court 
bouillon,  like  bass.  They  are  broiled  whole,  or  in  slices, 
and  served  with  a  maitre  cTh6tel  or  a  caper  sance. 

The  same  in  Fricandeau. — Cut  the  fish  in  slices  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  and  place  them  in  a  saucepan  with 
slices  of  fat  salt  pork,  carrots  and  onions  under  them ;  set 
on  a  good  fire ;  ten  minutes  after,  add  a  little  broth,  just 
enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan ;  after  about  five 
minutes,  turn  the  slices  over ;  finish  the  cooking  and  serve 
with  the  gravy  strained  over  the  fish,  or  with  a  tomato- 
sauce. 

The  same  in  Papillotes. — Fry  slices  of  salmon  with  a 
little  butter,  and  until  of  a  golden  color ;  take  them  from 
the  fire.  While  they  are  frying,  mix  well  together  parsley 
chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper,  melted  butter,  grated  nutmeg, 
and  a  little  lemon-juice ;  spread  some  of  the  mixture  on 
both  sides  of  the  slices  of  fish,  envelop  them  in  buttered 
or  oiled  paper ;  broil,  and  serve  them  hot 


FISH. 

Some  mushrooms  or  truffles,  or  both,  and  chopped, 
may  be  added  to  the  mixture. 

The  same  a  la  Genevoise. — Put  in  a  saucepan  a  thick 
slice  of  salmon — from  five  to  six  pounds;  just  cover  it 
with  broth  and  claret  wine — half  of  each ;  season  with  a 
bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  six  or  eight  sprigs  of 
parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  bay-leaves,  two  cloves,  and  two 
cloves  of  garlic,  salt,  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  and  a  small 
green  onion,  or  a  shallot,  if  handy.  Boil  gently  till  nearly 
done,  when  add  about  a  dozen  mushrooms,  and  keep 
boiling  till  done;  dish  the  fish,  and  put  it  in  a  warm  but 
not  hot  place ;  mix  cold,  in  a  saucepan,  four  ounces  of  but- 
ter with  about  two  ounces  of  flour ;  turn  over  it,  through 
a  strainer,  the  liquor  in  which  the  fish  has  been  cooked, 
and  set  on  a  sharp  fire ;  after  about  three  minutes,  during 
which  you  have  stirred  with  a  wooden  spoon,  add  the 
mushrooms ;  stir  again  for  about  two  minutes,  turn  over 
the  fish,  and  serve  warm. 

The  same  in  Salad. — Boil,  as  directed  for  fish,  some 
thin  slices  of  salmon,  drain,  and  serve  cold,  on  a  napkin 
and  on  a  dish. 

Serve  with  it,  and  in  a  boat,  the  following :  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  four  of  sweet  oil,  a  pickled  cucumber  chopped 
fine,  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  fine  also,  two  or  three 
anchovies,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  capers;  the  anchovies 
may  be  chopped  fine  or  pounded.  Beat  the  whole  well 
and  serve. 

The  same  in  Scallops. — Cut  it  in  round  slices,  about 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  fry  them  with  butter, 
and  serve. 

The  pieces  should  be  tastefully  arranged  on  a  dish, 
imitating  a  flight  of  stairs. 


142  FISH. 

Broiled. — Cut  it  in  rather  thin  slices,  butter  both  sides 
with  a  brush ;  broil,  and  serve  with  a  maitre  cFhotel. 

Shad  and  sheep's-head,  after  being  baked  or  boiled, 
are  served  with  an  anchovy,  caper,  or  tomato  sauce.  They 
are  also  served  cold,  a  la  vinaigrette. 

Broiled. — When  cleaned  and  prepared,  salt,  pepper, 
and  butter  it ;  broil  and  serve  it  with  a  maitre  d'hotel. 

It  may  be  stuffed  as  directed  for  fish. 

In  Provencale. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  the  fish  in 
pieces  about  two  inches  long ;  put  about  three  pounds  of 
it  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  pint  of  claret ;  six  stalks  of  pars- 
ley, a  small  onion,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  six  mushrooms, 
all  chopped  fine ;  boil  till  done,  when  add  four  ounces  of 
butter,  and  two  of  flour,  well  kneaded  together;  boil 
three  minutes  longer,  and  serve  warm. 

Another  way,  or  a  la  Chambord. — Stuff  the  fish  with 
sausage-meat,  envelop  it  in  a  towel,  boil,  and  serve  it  with 
a  tomato-sauce. 

The  same  with  Sorrel. — Broil  the  fish,  and  serve  it  on 
a  puree  of  sorrel  or  of  spinach. 

It  may  also  be  prepared  au  court  bouillon,  a  la  Cre- 
tonne, and  aux  fines  herbes,  like  bass,  etc.  ,'.. ., 

Sheep's-head  may  also  be  prepared  like  turbot. 

Au  Gratin. — The  shad,  after  being  cleaned,  but  not 
split  on  the  back  (as  is  too  often  the  case,  to  the  shame 
of  the  fishmongers  who  begin  by  spoiling  the  fish  under 
the  pretence  of  cleaning  it),  is  placed  in  a  bake-pan,  hav- 
ing butter,  chopped  parsley,  mushroom,  salt,  and  pepper, 
both  under  and  above  the  fish.  For  a  fish  weighing  three 
pounds,  add  one  gill  of  broth  and  half  as  much  of  white 
wine ;  dust  the  fish  with  bread-crumbs,  and  set  in  a  pretty 
quick  oven. 

Fifteen  minutes  afterward,  examine  it.     When  done, 


FISH.  143 

the  fish  is  dished,  a  little  broth  is  put  in  the  pan,  which  is 
placed  on  a  sharp  fire ;  stir  with  a  spoon  or  fork  so  as  to 
detach  the  bread,  etc.,  that  may  stick  to  the  pan,  then 
pour  this  over  the  fish,  and  serve  warm. 

The  gravy  must  be  reduced  to  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
fills  only,  for  a  fish  weighing  about  two  pounds. 

The  fish  must  be  dished  carefully  in  order  not  to 
break  it. 

Sterlet. — This  is  a  fish  of  the  sturgeon  family,  very 
plentiful  in  the  Caspian  Sea  and  in  many  Russian  rivers, 
principally  in  the  Neva  and  in  Lake  Ladoga. 

Tunny  and  bonito,  after  being  boiled,  are  served  cold  in 
vinaigrette. 

Turbot  and  Whiff. — Turbot  is  among  fishes  what 
pheasant  is  among  birds.  Rub  it  with  lemon  before 
cooking  it 

After  being  boiled  or  baked,  as  directed,  it  is  served 
with  the  following  sauces :  Bechamel,  cream,  caper,  Hollan- 
daise,  Mayonnaise,  tomato,  and  in  vinaigrette. 

It  is  also  served  au  court-bouillon  and  aux  fines  herbes 
like  bass. 

Au  Gratin. — It  is  prepared  and  served  like  shad  au 
gratin. 

It  is  also  broiled  and  served  with  a  maitre  cThotel. 

Bordelaise. — Bone  and  skin  the  fish  as  directed  ;  dip 
each  piece  in  melted  butter,  then  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in 
bread-crumbs  and  broil.  While  it  is  broiling  on  a  rather 
slow  fire,  turn  it  over  several  times  and  keep  basting  with 
melted  butter ;  the  more  butter  it  absorbs  the  better  the 
fish. 

When  broiled,  serve  the  slices  on  a  dish  and  place 
some  boiled  craw-fish  all  around  and  in  the  middle.  A 
dish  of  steamed  potatoes  is  served  with  it. 


144  FISH. 

The  following  sauce  is  also  served  at  the  same  time  : 
Chop  fine  and  fry  till  half  done,  with  a  little  butter,  two 
small  green  onions  or  four  shallots.  Put  half  a  pint  of 
good  meat-gravy  in  a  small  saucepan ;  set  on  the  fire,  and 
as  soon  as  it  commences  to  boil,  pour  into  it,  little  by 
little,  stirring  the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon,  about  a  gill 
of  Bordeaux  wine,  then  the  onions  or  shallots,  and  also  a 
piece  of  beef  marrow  chopped  fine ;  give  one  boil,  and 
serve  in  a  saucer. 

In  Salad. — Proceed  as  for  salmon  in  salad. 

When  boiled,  serve  the  turbot  with  anchovy-butter, 
lobster-butter,  lobster-sauce,  or  muscle-sauce. 

Cold. — Any  cold  piece  of  turbat  is  served  with  a 
Mayonnaise  sauce,  or  in  vinaigrette. 

Cold  Fish. — If  the  fish  is  with  sauce,  that  is,  if  the 
sauce  is  in  the  same  dish  with  the  fish,  warm  it  in  the 
bain-marie,  and  serve  warm.  Any  other  piece  of  cold  fish, 
baked,  boiled,  broiled,  or  roasted,  is  served  with  a  Mayon- 
naise sauce,  or  with  a  vinaigrette. 

Any  kind  of  cold  fish  may  be  prepared  in  salad. 
Slice  the  fish  or  cut  it  in  pieces  and  put  it  in  the  salad- 
dish  with  hard-boiled  egg  sliced,  onion  and  parsley 
chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  oil.  Mix  the 
whole  gently  and  well,  and  serve. 

Anchovy. — It  is  imported  preserved.  It  is  used  as  a 
hors-d'oeuvre,  to  decorate  or  season. 

The  essence  of  anchovy  is  used  for  sauce. 

The  smallest  are  considered  the  best. 

To  serve  as  a  hors  d'oeuvre,  wash,  wipe  dry,  and  re- 
move the  backbone,  serve  with  tarragon  or  parsley, 
chopped  fine,  vinegar,  and  oil. 

They  may  also  be  served  with  hard-boiled  eggs, 
chopped  or  quartered. 


FISH. 

Sprats. — There  are  none  in  or  near  American  waters;  e- 
they  are  imported  under  their  French  name,  sardines. 
Fresh  sprats  are  very  good  boiled  without  any  grease,  and 
without  being  cleaned  and  prepared  like  other  fish ;  but 
when  on  the  plate,  skin  them,  which  is  easily  done,  as 
then  the  flesh  is  so  easily  detached  from  the  bones  that 
the  inside  need  not  be  touched  at  all ;  they  are  eaten 
with  salt  and  pepper  only. 

Sardines  are  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  with  oil  and 
lemon-juice,  and  properly  scaled.  They  are  arranged  on 
the  dish  according  to  fancy,  together  with  lemon  in 
slices. 

Salt  Cod — to  prepare. — Soak  it  in  cold  water  for 
two  days,  changing  the  water  two  or  three  times ;  then 
scale  it  well  and  clean.  Lay  it  in  a  fish-kettle,  cover  with 
cold  water,  set  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  skim  off  the  scum, 
let  it  boil  about  one  minute,  take  the  kettle  from  the  fire, 
cover  it  well,  and  leave  thus  ten  minutes;  then  take  off 
the  cod,  and  drain  it. 

In  Bechamel. — Prepare  it  as  above,  and  serve  with  a 
bechamel  sauce,  and  as  warm  as  possible. 

With  a  Cream-Sauce. — Prepare  as  above,  and  serve 
either  warm  or  cold  with  a  cream-sauce. 

In  Brown  Butter. — When  prepared  as  above,  place  it 
on  a  dish,  and  keep  it  in  a  warm  place.  Put  four  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  on  a  good  fire ;  when  turn- 
ing brown,  add  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  fry  about  two 
minutes,  pour  the  whole  on  the  fish,  and  serve.  You  may 
also  pour  on  it  a  hot  caper-sauce,  and  serve. 

With  Croutons. — Prepare  and  cook  as  directed,  three 

pounds  of  cod ;  take  the  bones  out,  break  in  small  pieces, 

and  mash  with  the  hand  as  much  as  possible  ;  put  it  then 

in  a  stewpan,  beat  three  yolks  of  eggs  with  two  table- 

7 


146  FISH. 

spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  mix  with  the  cod ;  set  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  immediately  pour  in,  little  by  little,  stirring  the 
while,  about  one  gill  of  sweet  oil ;  simmer  ten  or  twelve 
minutes,  and  serve  with  croutons  around. 

In  Maitre  cPHdtel. — Lay  three  pounds  of  cod  on  a 
dish,  after  being  cooked  as  directed ;  keep  it  warm,  spread 
a  maitre  tfhdtel  sauce  on  it,  and  serve. 

With  Potatoes. — Prepare  about  three  pounds  of  cod 
as  directed  above.  Lay  the  fish  on  a  dish;  have  a 
piquante  sauce  ready,  turn  it  over  it,  and  serve  with 
steamed  potatoes  all  around  the  dish.  The  potatoes  may 
also  be  served  separately. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Prepare  as  directed,  and  when  cold, 
serve  with  a  vinaigrette. 

With  Cheese. — Prepare  the  cod  as  directed,  then  dip 
it  in  lukewarm  butter,  roll  it  in  grated  cheese,  lay  it  in  a 
baking-pan,  dust  slightly  with  bread-crumbs ;  bake,  and 
serve  warm.  Two  or  three  minutes  in  a  quick  oven  will  be 
sufficient. 

Au  Gratin. — When  soaked  only  and  wiped  dry,  but 
not  boiled,  prepare  it  as  directed  for  fish  au  aratin. 

With  Caper-Sauce. — Prepare  it  as  directed,  and  serve 
warm  with  caper-sauce. 

Salt  Salmon. — Soak  it  in  cold  water  for  some  time, 
the  length  of  time  to  be  according  to  the  saltness  of  the 
fish ;  scale  and  clean  it  well,  lay  it  in  a  fish-kettle,  cover 
it  with  cold  water,  and  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire.  Boil 
gently  about  two  minutes,  skim  off  the  scum,  take  from 
the  kettle  and  drain  it.  Put  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and 
set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  it  turns  rather  brown,  put  a  few 
spiigs  of  parsley  in  it,  and  immediately  pour  it  over  the 
fish  in  the  dish ;  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  all  over, 
and  serve  warm. 


FISH.  147 

It  may  also  be  served  with  a  caper  or  maitre  d'hote! 
sauce ;  or,  when  cold,  serve  a  la  vinaigrette. 

Salt  salmon  is  also  served  like  salt  cod-fish. 

It  may  also  be  served  on  a  puree  of  celery  or  of  onion. 

Smoked  Salmon. — Cut  it  in  thin  slices  ;  have  very  hot 
butter  or  oil  in  a  frying-pan,  and  lay  the  slices  in  only 
long  enough  to  warm  them ;  then  take  out,  drain  them, 
and  serve  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar 
sprinkled  on  them. 

Tunny. — This  is  not  a  good  fish  fresh  ;  it  is  generally 
preserved,  and  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre.  It  comes  from 
Holland,  Italy,  and  the  south  of  France. 

Fresh,  it  is  prepared  like  sturgeon.  That  prepared  in 
Holland  is  the  best.  The  Dutch  cure  fish  better  than  any 
other  nation. 

When  you  serve  tunny,  take  it  out  of  the  bottle  or  jar 
and  serve  it  on  a  small  plate,  or  on  a  dessert-plate.  A 
very  small  piece  is  served,  generally  like  every  other  hors- 
d'oeuvre. 

Salt  Herring. — Soak  in  cold  or  tepid  water ;  if  soaked 
in  tepid  water,  it  does  not  require  as  long ;  the  time  must 
be  according  to  the  quality  or  saltness  of  the  fish.  Wipe 
dry,  broil,  and  serve  like  salt  mackerel. 

Another  way. — Salt  herring  may  also  be  soaked  in 
half  water  and  half  milk,  or  in  milk  only;  drain  and  wipe 
dry.  Bone  and  skin,  cut  off  the  head,  tail,  and  fins,  and 
serve  with  oil,  vinegar,  and  pickled  cucumbers. 

They  are  also  served  with  slices  of  sour  apples,  or 
slices  of  onions,  after  being  soaked  and  wiped  dry. 

They  may  also  be  broiled  slightly  and  served  with  oil 
only,  after  being  soaked,  or  served  with  sour  grape-juice. 

Salt  Pike. — It  is  prepared  and  served  the  same  as 
salt  herring ;  so  is  pickled  trout. 


148  FISH, 

Red  Herring. — Wipe  or  skin  them,  they  are  not  as 
good  when  washed ;  cut  off  the  head  and  tail,  split  the 
back  open,  lay  them  on  a  warm  and  well-greased  gridiron, 
set  on  a  slow  fire  ;  spread  some  butter  or  oil  on  them,  turn 
over,  do  the  same  on  the  other  side  ;  broil  very  little,  and 
serve  with  a  vinaigrette  and  mustard  to  taste. 

Another  way. — Clean  and  split  them  as  above,  soak 
them  in  lukewarm  water  for  two  hours ;  take  out,  drain, 
and  wipe  dry.  Mix  two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
melted  butter;  put  some  of  the  mixture  around  every 
herring,  then  roll  them  in  fine  bread-crumbs,  place  them 
on  a  gridiron  on  a  slow  fire,  and  when  lightly  broiled, 
serve  as  the  preceding  one. 

Red  herring  may  also  be  broiled  with  bread-crumbs 
like  salt  herring. 

It  is  also  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  cut  in  slices. 

Salt  Mackerel  broiled. — If  the  fish  be  too  salt,  soak 
it  for  a  while  in  lukewarm  water,  take  off  and  wipe  dry. 
Have  a  little  melted  fat  or  lard,  dip  a  brush  in  it  and 
grease  slightly  both  sides  of  the  fish  ;  place  on  or  inside 
of  the  gridiron,  the  bars  of  which  must  also  be  greased ;  set 
on,  or  before,  or  under  a  pretty  sharp  fire;  broil  both 
sides  ;  dish  the  fish,  the  skin  under ;  spread  butter  on  it; 
also  parsley  chopped  fine,  and  serve. 

Lemon-juice  may  be  added  if  liked,  or  a  few  drops 
of  vinegar. 

When  broiled  and  dished,  spread  a  maitre  d'hotel  on 
it,  and  serve. 

Another  way. — When  soaked  and  wiped  dry,  dip  in 
melted  butter,  again  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs. Broil  and  serve  with  parsley  and  lemon-juice,  or 
with  a  maitre  d'hotel. 


FISH. 

FROGS. 

The  hind-legs  of  frogs  only  are  used  as  food ;  former- 
ly they  were  eaten  by  the  French  only,  but  now,  frog-eat- 
ing has  become  general,  and  the  Americans  are  not  behind 
any  others  in  relishing  that  kind  of  food. 

Fried. — Skin  well,  and  throw  into  boiling  water  with 
a  little  salt,  for  five  minutes,  the  hind-legs  only  ;  take  out 
and  throw  them  in  cold  water  to  cool,  and  drain.  Have 
hot  fat  in  a  pan  on  the  fire  (see  DIRECTIONS  FOR  FRY- 
ING) ;  lay  the  frogs  in,  and  serve  when  done  with  fried 
parsley  around. 

Stewed. — Skin,  boil  five  minutes,  throw  in  cold  water, 
and  drain  as  above.  Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  but 
ter  (for  two  dozen  frogs) ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  wher 
melted,  lay  the  legs  in,  fry  two  minutes,  tossing  now  and 
then ;  then  sprinkle  on  them  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stir 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  add  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  one  of  garlic,  salt,  white 
pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  white  wine;  boil  gently  till 
done,  dish  the  legs,  reduce  the  sauce  on  the  fire,  strain  it, 
mix  in  it  two  yolks  of  eggs,  pour  on  the  legs,  and  serve 
them. 

LOBSTER. 

Never  buy  a  dead  lobster. 

Large  lobsters  are  not  as  good  as  small  ones.  From 
about  one  to  two  pounds  and  a  half  in  weight  are  the 
best.  The  heavier  the  better. 

Lobsters  are  better  at  some  seasons  of  the  year  than  at 
others.  They  are  inferior  when  full  of  eggs. 

It  is  from  mere  prejudice  that  the  liver  (also  called  torn- 
alley)  is  eschewed.  This  prejudice  may  come  from  its 
turning  green  on  boiling  the  lobster. 


150  FISH. 

Use  every  thing  but  the  stomach  and  the  black  of 
bluish  vein  running  along  its  back  and  tail. 

Boil  your  lobsters  yourself;  because,  if  you  buy 
them  already  boiled,  you  do  not  know  if  they  were  alive 
when  put  in  the  kettle. 

A  lobster  boiled  after  being  dead  is  watery,  soft,  and 
not  full ;  besides  being  very  unhealthy,  if  not  dangerous. 

A  lobster  suffers  less  by  being  put  in  cold  than  in  boil- 
ing water,  and  the  flesh  is  firmer  when  done.  In  putting 
it  in  boiling  water  it  is  killed  by  the  heat ;  in  cold  water 
it  is  dead  as  soon  as  the  water  gets  warm. 

To  boil — Lay  it  in  a  fish-kettle ;  just  cover  it  with  cold 
water,  cover  the  kettle,  and  set  it  on  a  sharp  fire. 

It  takes  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  minutes'  boiling, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  lobster. 

When  boiled,  take  it  from  the  kettle,  break  it  in  two, 
that  is,  separate  the  body  from  the  tail,  and  place  it  in  a 
colander  to  let  the  water  drain. 

In  the  shell. — When  the  lobster  is  boiled,  divide  it  in 
two,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  body  and  large  claws. 
The  tail  is  then  split  in  two,  lengthwise,  the  flesh  taken 
off,  cut  in  small  dice,  and  mixed  with  the  inside  of  the 
lobster. 

The  vein  found  immediately  under  the  shell,  all  along 
the  flesh  of  the  lobster,  is  removed  as  soon  as  it  is  split. 
The  stomach,  found  near  the  head,  is  removed  also  and 
thrown  away ;  all  the  rest  is  good,  including  the  liver. 

When  the  flesh  and  inside  are  properly  mixed,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  oil,  mustard,  and  chopped  pars- 
ley. 

Place  the  body  of  the  lobster  on  the  middle  of  a  dish, 
the  head  up,  the  two  large  claws  stretched  out,  and  the 
two  feelers  stretched  out  also  and  fastened  between  the 


FISH.  151 

claws.  A  sprig  of  parsley  is  put  in  each  claw,  at  the  end 
of  it,  in  the  small  claws  as  well  as  in  the  two  large  ones. 
Then  the  two  empty  halves  of  the  tail-piece  are  put  around 
the  body  of  the  lobster,  the  prepared  flesh  placed  around 
them ;  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  eight  pieces  each  are  placed 
around  the  dish,  tastefully  arranged;  some  slices  of  red, 
pickled  beets  and  cut  with  paste-cutters,  are  placed  be- 
tween each  piece  of  egg,  and  serve. 

It  makes  a  simple,  good,  and  very  sightly  dish. 

Half  a  dozen  boiled  craw-fish  may  be  placed  around 
the  dish  also ;  it  will  add  to  the  decoration. 

Two  middling-sized  lobsters  prepared  thus  will  fill  a 
very  large  dish.  They  should  be  placed  back  to  back, 
with  only  a  few  craw-fish  between,  and  the  rest  arranged 
as  the  above. 

In  Salad. — Boil  the  lobster  as  directed;  break  and 
drain  it  as  directed  also.  Slice  the  flesh  of  the  tail,  place 
it  tastefully  on  a  dish ;  also  the  flesh  from  the  two  large 
claws,  which  may  be  sliced  or  served  whole.  Lettuce,  or 
hard-boiled  eggs,  or  both,  may  be  arranged  on  the  dish 
also,  and  served  with  the  following  sauce  : 

Put  in  a  boat  or  saucer  all  the  inside  save  the  stomach, 
with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  oil,  mustard,  and  chopped  pars- 
ley, to  taste ;  beat  and  mix  the  whole  well  together,  and 
serve.  In  case  there  are  eggs,  these  are  also  to  be  mixed 
with  the  rest. 

Another. — Boil  and  drain  as  directed ;  cut  all  the  flesh 
in  dice,  and  put  it  in  a  bowl  with  the  inside,  some  lettuco 
cut  rather  fine,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  mustard,  and  very  lit- 
tle oil ;  mix  well,  and  then  put  the  mixture  on  a  dish, 
placing  it  like  a  mound  on  the  middle  of  the  dish ; 
spread  a  Mayonnaise  sauce  over  it;  decorate  with  the 
centre  leaves  of  the  lettuce,  some  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in 


152  FISH. 

slices  or  in  fancy  shapes,  capers,  boiled  or  pickled  red 
beets,  cut  also  in  fancy  shapes,  slices  of  lemon,  and  serve. 

Anchovies,  olives,  pickled  cucumbers,  or  any  other 
pickled  fruit  or  vegetable  may  also  be  added. 

A  rose,  or  two  or  three  pinks,  may  be  placed  right  on 
the  top,  as  a  decoration.  Just  before  commencing  to  serve, 
the  rose  may  be  put  on  a  dessert  plate  and  offered  to  a 
lady. 

In  CoquilleSj  or  Scalloped. — It  is  boiled  and  then  fin- 
ished like  oysters  scalloped. 

It  may  be  served  thus  on  scallop-shells,  on  silver  shells, 
or  on  its  own  shell ;  that  is,  on  the  shell  of  the  tail,  split 
in  two  lengthwise,  and  trimmed  according  to  fancy. 

Croquettes. — Lobster  croquettes  are  made  exactly  like 
fak-balls,  and  then  fried  according  to  directions  for  frying. 

They  are  served  warm.  It  is  an  excellent  dish  for 
breakfast. 

Fried. — To  be  fried,  the  lobster  must  be  bled  ;  separate 
the  body  from  the  tail,  then  cut  the  tail  in  pieces,  making 
as  many  pieces  as  there  are  joints.  Put  these  pieces  in  a 
frying-pan  with  two  or  three  ounces  of  butter,  and  one 
onion,  chopped  fine ;  set  on  a  sharp  fire,  stir  now  and 
then  till  the  whole  is  fried,  then  add  a  bunch  of  seasoning 
composed  of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay- 
leaf,  and  a  clove ;  salt,  pepper,  and  three  gills  of  Madeira 
•wine ;  boil  gently  till  reduced  about  half;  dish  the  pieces 
of  lobster  according  to  fancy;  add  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  gravy  to  the  sauce,  stir  it,  give  one  boil,  and  turn 
it  over  the  lobster  through  a  strainer ;  serve  warm. 

Another  way. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular, 
except  that  you  use  Sauterne  or  Catawba  wine  instead  of 
Madeira,  and,  besides  the  seasonings,  add  half  a  dozen 
mushrooms,  or  two  truffles,  or  both. 


FISH.  153 

Dish  the  mushrooms  and  truffles  with  the  lobster,  then 
finish  and  serve  as  the  above. 

Craw-fish. — These  are  found  in  most  of  the  lakes, 
brooks,  and  rivers. 

In  some  places  they  are  called  river-crabs,  or  fresh- 
water crabs. 

They  resemble  the  lobster,  and  are  often  taken  foi 
young  lobsters. 

Besides  being  a  beautiful  ornament  and  much  used  to 
decorate  dishes,  they  are  excellent  to  eat  and  very 
light. 

They  are  dressed  and  served  like  lobsters  and  crabs. 

Fishermen  are  sure  to  find  a  ready  market  for  them, 
though  they  are,  as  yet,  very  little  known. 

Crabs. — Crabs  are  boiled  like  lobsters,  and  may  be 
served  like  lobster,  in  salad.  They  are  often  eaten,  only 
boiled,  without  any  seasonings. 

Like  lobsters  also,  to  be  good,  crabs  must  be  put  in 
the  water  alive. 

When  well  washed  and  clean,  they  may  be  prepared 
in  the  following  way :  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  slices 
of  onions,  same  of  carrots,  parsley,  chives  if  handy,  thyme, 
bay-leaves,  cloves,  salt,  and  pepper-corns ;  half  cover  them 
with  white  wine,  add  butter,  set  on  a  good  fire,  and  boil 
till  done.  Serve  with  parsley  only. 

The  sauce  may  be  used  a  second  time  by  adding  a  lit- 
tle wine. 

The  soft-shell  crab  is  blanched  five  minutes,  and  fried 
like  fish. 

It  may  also  be  saute  with  a  little  butter,  and  served 
with  a  maitre  d'hotel. 

Broil  it  also,  and  serve  it  with  a  maitre  d'htitel. 

Muscles. — These  are  unwholesome  between  April  and 
7* 


154:  FISH. 

September.  They  must  be  heavy,  fresh,  and  of  a  mid- 
dling size.  The  very  large  ones  are  really  inferior. 

Soak  them  in  water  and  wash  well  several  times,  then 
drain. 

In  Poulette. — Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
parsley  chopped  fine,  and  set  them  on  a  pretty  good  fire; 
as  soon  as  they  are  opened,  remove  the  shell  to  which  they 
are  not  attached,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place. 

For  two  quarts  of  muscles,  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  the  saucepan  in  which  they  have  been  cooked  and  in 
which  you  have  left  their  liquor ;  set  on  the  fire,  stir,  and 
as  soon  as  the  butter  is  melted,  add  and  stir  into  it  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour ;  when  turning  a  little  yellow,  add  also 
half  a  dozen  pepper-corns,  then  the  muscles;  boil  gently 
about  ten  minutes,  stirring  occasionally;  take  from  the 
fire,  mix  one  or  two  yolks  of  eggs  with  it,  a  little  lemon- 
juice,  parsley  chopped  fine,  and  serve  warm. 

Another  way.— When  clean,  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  few  slices  of  carrot,  same  of  onion,  two  or  three 
stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  six 
pepper-corns,  and  salt.  Set  on  the  fire,  and  take  the  mus- 
cles from  the  pan  as  soon  as  they  open,  then  remove  one 
shell ;  put  them  back  in  the  pan,  with  as  much  white  wine 
as  there  is  liquor  from  the  muscles ;  boil  gently  about  ten 
minutes,  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  little  lemon-juice,  and 
dish  the  muscles ;  drain  the  sauce  over  them,  add  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  and  serve  warm. 

Fried. — Fry,  and  serve  the  muscles  like  fried  oysters. 
They  may  also  be  served  like  scalloped  oysters. 

Prawns  and  Shrimps. — Wash,  boil  in  water  and  salt, 
and  serve.  They  may  be  used,  h'ke  craw-fish,  to  decorate 
fish  after  being  boiled. 

Another  way. — Wash  well,  and  put  two  quarts  of  them 


FISH.  155 

in  a  saucepan  with  four  onions  in  slices,  two  sprigs  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  salt>  pepper, 
half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  two  ounces  of  butter,  just 
cover  with  water  and  set  on  a  good  fire ;  when  properly 
cooked,  drain,  and  serve  warm  with  green  parsley  all 
around.  The  liquor  may  be  used  a  second  time. 

OYSTERS. 

The  American  oyster  is  unquestionably  the  best  that 
can  be  found.  It  varies  in  taste  according  to  how  it  is 
treated,  either  after  being  dredged  or  while  embedded ; 
and  also  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  water  in 
which  they  have  lived.  It  is  very  wrong  to  wash  oysters. 
We  mean  by  washing  oysters,  the  abominable  habit  of 
throwing  oysters  in  cold  water,  as  soon  as  opened,  and 
then  sold  by  the  measure.  It  is  more  than  a  pity  to  thus 
spoil  such  an  excellent  and  delicate  article  of  food. 

Oysters,  like  lobsters,  are  not  good  when  dead,  To  as- 
certain if  they  are  alive,  as  soon  as  opened  and  when  one 
of  the  shells  is  removed,  touch  gently  the  edge  of  the 
oyster,  and,  if  alive,  it  will  contract. 

Maw. — "When  well  washed,  open  them,  detaching  the 
upper  shell,  then  detach  them  from  the  under  shell,  but 
leave  them  on  it ;  place  on  a  dish,  and  leave  the  upper 
shell  on  every  oyster,  and  serve  thus. 

To  eat  them,  you  remove  the  upper  shell,  sprinkle  salt, 
pepper,  and  lemon-juice  on,  and  eat 

When  raw  oysters  are  served  on  a  table,  at  which  there 
are  gentlemen  only,  some  shallots,  chopped  fine  and  gently 
bruised  in  a  coarse  towel,  are  served  with  them,  on  a  sep- 
arate dish.  The  taste  of  the  shallot  agrees  very  well  with 
that  of  the  oyster. 

A  Tartar  sauce  may  be  served  instead  of  shallots. 


156  FISH. 

To  blanch. — Set  the  oysters  and  a  little  water  on  the 
fire  in  a  saucepan,  take  them  off  at  the  first  boil,  skim  off 
the  scum  from  the  top,  strain  them,  and  drop  them  in  cold 
water. 

The  skimming,  straining,  and  dropping  in  cold  water 
must  be  done  quickly — the  quicker  the  better.  If  allowed 
to  stay  in  the  warm  water,  or  out  of  water,  they  get  tough. 

In  dropping  them  in  cold  water,  see  that  they  are  free 
from  pieces  of  shell ;  take  them  with  a  fork  if  necessary. 

As  soon  as  in  cold  water  they  are  ready  for  nse,  but 
they  must  always  be  drained  again  before  using  them. 

When  the  water  used  to  blanch  is  employed  in  pre- 
paring them,  it  is  explained  in  the  different  receipts. 

"White  wine  may  be  used,  instead  of  water,  to  blanch 
them,  according  to  taste. 

Fried. — Open  the  oysters,  and  put  them  in  a  colander 
for  about  half  an  hour.  They  must  be  as  well  drained  as 
possible.  Then  dip  them  in  egg  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs 
in  the  following  way :  Beat  one  or  two,  or  three,  eggs 
(according  to  the  quantity  of  oysters  to  be  fried),  as  for 
an  omelet,  turn  the  oysters  into  the  eggs  and  stir  gently ; 
then  take  one  after  another,  roll  in  bread-crumbs ;  place 
each  one  on  your  left  hand,  in  taking  them  from  the 
crumbs,  and  with  the  other  hand  press  gently  on  it.  Put 
them  away  in  a  cool  place  for  about  half  an  hour,  and  then 
dip  again  in  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  pi  ess  in  the 
hand  as  before.  It  is  not  indispensable  to  dip  in  egg  and 
roll  in  crumbs  a  second  time;  but  the  oysters  are  better, 
and  you  are  well  repaid  for  the  little  extra  work  it  re- 
quires. While  you  are  preparing  them,  set  some  fat  on 
the  fire  in  a  pan,  and  when  hot  enough  (see  FRYING)  drop 
the  oysters  in,  stir  gently,  take  off  with  a  skimmer  when 
fried,  turn  into  a  colander,  add  salt,  and  serve  hot. 


FISH.  157 

Roasted. — Place  the  oysters  on  a  hot  stove  or  range, 
or  on  coals,  and  as  soon  as  they  open  take  off,  remove  one 
shell ;  turn  a  little  melted  butter  on  each,  and  serve. 

There  are  several  other  ways. 

When  blanched,  they  are  served  on  toast,  a  little 
gravy  is  added,  the  toast  placed  on  a  dessert-plate,  and 
served  thus. 

Broiled  and  roasted  as  above  is  the  same  thing. 

Oysters  scalloped  on  their  own  shell,  and  placed  on 
the  range  instead  of  in  the  oven,  are  also  called  broiled. 

Scalloped. — Place  the  oysters  when  thoroughly  washed 
on  a  hot  stove,  and  as  soon  as  they  open  remove  one  shell, 
the  flatter  one  of  the  two,  and  take  them  from  the  fire. 
Sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  chopped  parsley,  and  bread-crumbs 
on  them ;  place  on  each  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
hazel-nut ;  put  in  the  oven  about  ten  minutes,  and  when 
done  add  a  few  drops  of  meat-gravy,  to  each,  and  serve 
hot. 

Another. — Put  a  quart  of  oysters  and  their  liquor  in  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  take  off  at  the  first  boil,  and 
drain.  Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter in  it ;  as  soon  as  melted,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
stir,  and,  when  turning  rather  brown,  add  the  juice  of  the 
oysters,  about  a  gill  of  gravy,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  gen- 
tly for  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then.  While  it 
is  boiling,  place  the  oysters  on  scallop-shells,  or  on  silver 
shells  made  for  that  purpose,  two  or  three  oysters  on  each, 
turn  some  of  the  above  sauce  on  each,  after  it  has  boiled ; 
dust  with  bread-crumbs,  put  a  little  piece  of  butter  on 
each  shell,  and  bake  for  about  twelve  minutes  in  a  warm 
oven. 

A  dozen  silver  shells  served  thus  make  a  sightly  and 
excellent  dish 


158  FISH. 

Some  truffles,  chopped  fine,  may  be  added  to  the  sauce 
two  minutes  before  taking  it  from  the  fire. 

Stewed. — Procure  two  quarts  of  good  and  fresh  oys- 
ters. Set  them  on  a  sharp  fire,  with  their  liquor  and  a 
little  water,  and  blanch  as  directed.  Put  four  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan,  set  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  stir 
into  it  a  small  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  as  soon  as  mixed, 
add  also  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley,  chopped  fine,  and  about 
half  a  pint  of  broth ;  boil  gently  about  ten  minutes,  then 
add  the  oysters,  salt  and  pepper,  boil  again  about  one 
minute,  dish  the  whole,  sprinkle  lemon-juice  on,  and  serve. 

An  oyster  soup  is  often  called  a  stew. 

In  JPoulette. — In  adding  chopped  mushrooms  to  the 
stewed  oysters,  at  the  same  time  that  the  oysters  are  put 
in  the  pan,  you  make  them  in  poulette. 

A  la  Washington. — Fried  oysters  are  called  a  la  Wash- 
ington, when  two,  three,  or  four  very  large  oysters  are  put 
together  (they  adhere  very  easily),  dipped  in  egg,  rolled 
in  bread-crumbs,  and  fried,  as  directed  above.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  have  a  deep  pan,  and  much  fat,  to  immerse  them 
completely. 

Pickled  oysters  are  always  served  as  a  hors  d'ceuvre. 
Place  around  the  oysters  some  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped 
fine,  and  serve  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

Serve  them  in  the  same  way,  with  slices  of  truffles  in- 
stead of  hard-boiled  eggs. 

They  may  also  be  served  with  lemon-juice  only. 

Or  with  shallots  chopped  fine,  and  then  bruised  in  a 
coarse  towel.  This  last  one  is  considered  of  too  strong  a 
taste  for  ladies. 

They  are  also  served  with  a  Tartar  sauce. 

Scallops. — Blanch  the  scallops  for  three  minutes,  drain 
them.  Put  butter  on  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 


FISH. 


159 


melted  turn  the  scallops  in ;  stir  now  and  then,  take  from 
the  fire  when  fried,  add  parsley  chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper, 
and  serve  warm. 

On  the  Shell. — Chop  fine  a  middling-sized  onion,  and 
fry  it  with  one  ounce  of  butter.  While  the  onion  is  frying, 
chop  fine  also  one  quart  of  scallops  and  put  them  with  the 
onion ;  stir  for  two  or  three  minutes,  or  till  about  half 
fried,  when  turn  the  juice  off,  put  back  on  the  fire,  and 
add  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  gill  of  white  wine,  stir  for 
two  or  three  minutes,  and  if  too  thick  add  the  juice  you 
have  turned  off;  take  from  the  fire,  and  mix  a  yolk  of  egg 
with  it;  add  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  grated,  and  parsley  chopped 
fine. 

Have  the  scallop  shells  properly  cleaned,  or  silver  shells, 
spread  the  mixture  on  the  shells ;  dust  with  bread-crumbs, 
put  a  piece  of  butter  about  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut  on  each, 
and  put  in  an  oven,  at  about  320  deg.  Fahr.,  for  from  ten 
to  fifteen  minutes. 

This  is  a  dish  for  breakfast. 

Scallop,  scollop,  or  escalop,  are  one  and  the  same  fish, 

CLAMS. 

Wash  clean  with  a  scrubbing-brush  and  put  them  in 
a  kettle ;  set  on  a  good  fire,  and  leave  till  they  are  wide 
open ;  then  take  from  the  kettle,  cut  each  in  two  or  three 
pieces,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  all  the  water  they  have 
disgorged  in  the  kettle,  and  about  four  ounces  of  butter 
for  fifty  clams  ;  boil  slowly  about  an  hour,  take  from  the 
fire,  and  mix  with  the  whole  two  beaten  eggs,  and  serve 
warm. 

Clams  are  also  eaten  raw  with  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Chowder. — This  popular  dish  is  made  in  a  hundred 
different  ways,  but  the  result  is  about  the  same. 


160  FISH. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  boatmen  prepare  it  better 
than  others,  and  the  receipts  we  give  below  came  from 
the  most  experienced  chowder-men  of  the  Harlem  River. 

Potatoes  and  crackers  are  used  in  different  proportions, 
the  more  used,  the  thicker  the  chowder  will  be. 

Put  in  a  pot  (technical  name)  some  small  slices  of 
fat  salt  pork,  enough  to  line  the  bottom  of  it ;  on  that,  a 
layer  of  potatoes,  cut  in  small  pieces ;  on  the  potatoes, 
a  layer  of  chopped  onions ;  on  the  onions,  a  layer  of 
tomatoes,  in  slices,  or  canned  tomatoes ;  on  the  latter  a 
layer  of  clams,  whole  or  chopped  (they  are  generally 
chopped),  then  a  layer  of  crackers. 

Then  repeat  the  process,  that  is,  another  layer  of  pota- 
toes on  that  of  the  clams ;  on  this,  one  of  onions,  etc., 
till  the  pot  is  nearly  full.  Every  layer  is  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Other  spices  are  sometimes  added  ac- 
cording to  taste ;  such  as  thyme,  cloves,  bay-leaves,  and 
tarragon. 

When  the  whole  is  in,  cover  with  water,  set  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  when  nearly  done,  stir  gently,  finish  cooking,  and 
serve. 

As  we  remarked  above,  the  more  potatoes  that  are 
used,  the  thicker  it  will  be. 

When  done,  if  found  too  thin,  boil  a  little  longer ;  if 
found  too  thick,  add  a  little  water,  give?  one  boil,  and 
serve. 

Another  way. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular, 
except  that  you  omit  the  clams  and  crackers,  and  when 
the  rest  is  nearly  cooked,  then  add  the  chopped  clams  and 
broken  crackers,  boil  fast  about  twenty-five  minutes 
longer,  and  serve. 

If  found  too  thick  or  too  thin,  proceed  exactly  as  for 
the  one  above. 


FISH.  161 

Fish  Chowder. — This  is  made  exactly  as  clam  chow- 
der, using  fish  instead  of  clams. 

Clam  Bake. — This  is  how  it  is  made  by  the  Harlem 
River  clam-baker,  TOM  RILEY. 

Lay  the  clams  on  a  rock,  edge  downward,  and  forming 
a  circle,  cover  them  with  fine  brush ;  cover  the  brush  with 
dry  sage ;  cover  the  sage  with  larger  brush  ;  set  the  whole 
on  fire,  and  when  a  little  more  than  half  burnt  (brush 
and  sage),  look  at  the  clams  by  pulling  some  out,  and  if 
done  enough,  brush  the  fire,  cinders,  etc.,  oft';  mix  some 
tomato  or  cauliflower  sauce,  or  catsup,  with  the  clams 
(minus  their  shells) ;  add  butter  and  spices  to  taste,  and 
serve. 

Done  on  sand,  the  clams,  in  opening,  naturally  allow 
the  sand  to  get  in,  and  it  is  any  thing  but  pleasant  foi  the 
teeth  while  eating  them. 


BEEF. 


HOW  TO  SELECT. 

SEE  if  the  meat  is  fine,  of  a  clear  red  color,  with  yel- 
lowish-white fat. 

COW  BEEF. 

Cow  beef  must  also  be  of  a  clear  red  color,  but  more 
pale  than  other  beef ;  the  fat  is  white. 

BULL  BEEF. 

Bull  beef  is  never  good ;  you  recognize  it  when  you 
see  hard  and  yellow  fat ;  the  lean  part  is  of  a  dirty-reddish 
color. 

The  rump  piece  is  generally  prepared  a  la  mode. 
For  steaks,  the  tenderloin  and  the  piece  called  the  porter- 
house steak,  are  the  best ;  rump  steaks  are  seldom  tender. 

The  roasting  or  baking  pieces  are  the  tenderloin,  the 
fillet,  and  some  cuts  of  the  ribs. 

For  soup,  every  piece  is  good ;  to  make  rich  broth, 
take  pieces  of  the  rump,  sucket,  round,  etc.,  but  every 
piece  makes  excellent  broth,  and  therefore  excellent  soup. 
(See  BROTH.) 

A  good  piece  of  rib,  prepared  like  a  fillet  or  tender- 
loin, makes  an  excellent  dish,  the  bones  and  meat  around 
them  being  used  to  make  broth. 


BEEF.  163 

A  LA  MODE. 

Take  from  six  to  twelve  pounds  of  rump  and  lard  it. 
To  lard  it  you  take  a  steel  needle  made  for  that  purpose, 
flat  near  the  pointed  end  and  much  larger  than  an  ordinary 
larding-needle.  It  must  be  flat  near  the  point  in  order  to 
cut  the  meat  so  as  to  make  room  for  the  larger  part  of  the 
needle  to  pass,  and  also  for  the  salt  pork.  This  needle  is 
only  used  for  beef  a  la  mode. 

Cut  the  salt  pork  in  square  strips  to  fit  the  needle, 
(see  LARDING),  and  proceed. 

Examine  the  piece  of  beef,  lard  with  the  grain  of  the 
meat,  so  that  when  it  is  carved  the  salt  pork  shall  be  cut 
across. 

If  the  piece  is  too  thick  to  run  the  strip  of  pork 
through,  so  that  both  ends  stick  out,  lard  one  side  first 
then  the  other.  We  mean  by  one  side  first,  this :  to  be 
easily  handled,  the  salt  pork  cannot  be  cut  longer  than 
about  four  inches ;  as  half  an  inch  of  it  must  stick  out  of 
the  meat,  it  leaves  only  three  inches  inside,  and  if  the 
piece  of  meat  be  six  inches  or  more  thick,  of  course  it 
would  be  impossible  to  have  the  strip  of  pork  stick  out  on 
both  sides ;  therefore,  you  lard  one  side  first ;  that  is,  you 
run  the  needle  through  the  meat,  leaving  the  salt  pork 
stick  out  on  the  side  you  commence,  and  when  that  side 
is  larded,  do  the  same  for  the  other.  You  have  then  the 
salt  pork  sticking  out  on  both  sides  of  the  meat  and  look- 
ing just  as  if  the  strips  were  running  through  the  whole 
piece. 

Some  like  more  salt  pork  than  others  in  the  beef;  the 
strips  may  be  run  thickly  or  thinly. 

Thirty  strips  may  be  run  into  three  pounds  of  meat  as 
well  as  half  a  dozen ;  but  about  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork 
to  five  pounds  of  beef  is  a  pretty  good  proportion. 


164:  BEEF. 

Then  take  a  saucepan  of  a  proper  size  for  the  piece  of 
meat ;  it  must  not  be  too  large  or  too  small,  but  large 
enough  to  hold  the  meat  without  being  obliged  to  bend 
or  fold  it ;  a  crockery  pan  is  certainly  the  best  for  that 
purpose,  and  one  that  will  go  easily  in  the  oven. 

Put  in  the  saucepan,  for  six  pounds  of  beef,  half  a 
calf  s  foot,  or  a  veal-bone  if  more  handy,  two  ounces  of 
butter,  half  a  handful  of  parsley  (cives,  if  handy),  two 
bay -leaves,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  onions, 
with  a  clove  stuck  in  each,  salt,  pepper,  half  a  carrot  cut  in 
slices,  the  rind  of  the  salt  pork  you  have  used,  and  what 
you  may  have  left  of  strips ;  the  whole  well  spread  on  the 
bottom  of  the  pan,  then  the  piece  of  meat  over,  cover  the 
pan,  set  on  a  rather  sharp  fire  and  after  about  ten  minutes 
add  half  a  gill  of  water;  keep  the  pan  covered  to 
the  end. 

After  another  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  add  about  one 
pint  of  cold  water,  turn  the  meat  over,  and  after  about 
ten  minutes  more,  place  the  pan  in  the  oven,  a  rather  slow 
oven  (a  little  above  220  degrees  Fahr.),  for  five  or  six 
hours.  Dish  the  meat,  skim  off  the  fat  on  the  top  of  the 
gravy,  give  one  boil  and  turn  it  over  the  meat  and  carrots 
through  a  strainer. 

When  the  meat  is  dished,  put  some  carrots  au  jus  all 
around ;  serve  warm. 

Cold.— Serve  it  whole  or  in  slices,  with  meat  jelly,  or 
with  a  sharp  sauce  ;  such  as  piquante,  ravigote,  etc. 

STEWED. 

Stewed  beef  is  called  also  daube  or  braised  beef,  but  it 
is  the  same. 

It  may  be  larded  as  beef  a  la  mode,  or  not ;  it  may  be 
put  whole  in  the  pan  or  in  large  dice,  according  to  taste. 


BEEF.  165 

following  is  for  five  or  six  pounds  of  rump  or 
even  a  piece  of  ribs : 

Put  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  salt  pork  cut  in  dice, 
four  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  bay-leaves,  a 
clove  of  garlic,  a  sprig  of  sweet  basil,  two  cloves,  three 
carrots  cut  in  pieces,  salt,  and  pepper ;  put  the  piece  of 
beef  on  the  whole,  wet  with  a  glass  of  broth,  and  one  of 
white  wine  (a  liquor-glass  of  French  brandy  may  also  be 
added) ;  season  with  six  or  eight  small  onions ;  place  in  a 
moderately  heated  oven,  put  paste  around  the  cover  to 
keep  it  air-tight ;  simmer  about  six  hours ;  dish  the  meat 
with  the  onions  and  carrots  around  it,  strain  the  gravy  on 
the  whole,  and  serve. 

Almost  any  piece  of  beef  may  be  cooked  in  the  same 
way,  and  will  be  found  good,  wholesome,  and  economical. 

ROASTED. 

How  to  improve  it. — Put  the  meat  in  a  tureen,  with 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet-oil,  salt,  pepper,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  four  onions  cut  in  slices, 
two  bay-leaves,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  put  half 
of  all  the  above  under  the  meat,  and  half  on  it ;  cover, 
and  leave  thus  two  days  in  winter,  and  about  eighteen 
hours  in  summer. 

It  certainly  improves  the  meat  and  makes  it  more 
tender.  The  tenderloin  may  be  improved  as  well  as  any 
other  piece. 

Then  place  the  meat  on  the  spit  before  and  near  a 
very  sharp  fire.  Baste  often  with  the  seasonings,  if  you 
have  improved  the  meat ;  or  with  a  little  melted  butter, 
if  you  have  not.  Continue  basting  with  what  is  in  the 
dripping-pan. 

Beef  must  be  placed  as  near  the  fire  as  possible,  with- 


166  BEEF. 

out  burning  it,  however ;  and  then,  as  soon  as  a  coating 
or  crust  is  formed  all  around,  remove  it  by  degrees.  Re- 
member that  the  quicker  the  crust  is  formed,  the  more 
juicy  and  tender  the  meat. 

Nothing  at  all  is  added  to  form  that  kind  of  crust.  It 
is  formed  by  the  osmazome  of  the  meat,  attracted  by  the 
heat,  and  coming  in  contact  with  the  air  while  revolving. 

Beef  is  more  juicy  when  rather  underdone ;  if  good, 
when  cut,  it  has  a  pinky  color  inside. 

Roast  beef  may  be  served  with  the  drippings  only, 
after  being  strained  and  the  fat  removed. 

It  may  also  be  served  in  the  following  ways  : 

With  Potatoes. — Fried  potatoes  may  be  served  all 
around  the  meat,  or  on  a  separate  dish.  Also,  potato 
croquettes. 

With  Horse-radish. — Grate  horse-radish,  mix  it  with 
the  drippings,  and  serve  in  a  boat. 

With  a  Garniture. — Mix  a  liver  garniture  with  the 
gravy,  add  lemon-juice,  place  ah1  around  the  meat,  and 
serve. 

With  Truffles. — Place  the  garniture  of  truffles  on  and 
around  the  meat,  turn  the  drippings  on  the  whole,  and 
serve. 

With  Tomatoes. — Surround  the  meat  with  stuffed  to- 
matoes, strain  the  gravy  on  the  whole,  and  serve. 

On  Purees. — Spread  either  of  the  folio  wing  purees  on 
the  dish,  place  the  meat  over  it,  strain  the  drippings  on 
the  whole,  and  serve  : 

Purees  of  asparagus,  beans,  cauliflowers,  celery,  Lima 
beans,  onions,  green  peas,  potatoes,  and  mushrooms. 

With  Callage. — Surround  the  meat  with  Brussels 
cabbages,  prepared  au  jus ;  strain  the  drippings  on  tha 
whole,  and  serve. 


BEEF.  167 

With  Quenelles. — Place  twelve  quenelles  of  chicken 
around  the  meat,  and  serve  with  the  drippings. 

TO  DECORATE. 

When  served  in  any  way  as  described  above,  one  or 
two  or  more  skewers  may  be  run  through  craw-fish  and  a 
slice  of  truffle,  and  stuck  in  the  meat,  or  through  sweet- 
breads au  jus,  and  slices  of  truffles.  It  makes  a  beautiful 
and  good  decoration. 

The  skewers  may  also  be  run  through  chicken-combs, 
prepared  as  for  farce  ;  first  through  a  comb,  then  through 
a  slice  of  truffle,  through  a  sweetbread,  again  through  a 
slice  of  truffle,  then  through  a  craw-fish,  and  lastly  a  slice 
of  truffle,  or  the  reverse,  according  to  fancy. 

With  Rice. — It  is  surrounded  with  rice  croquettes, 
the  drippings  strained  over  the  whole. 

We  could  put  down  some  twenty  or  more  other  ways, 
but  any  one  with  an  ordinary  amount  of  natural  capacity 
can  do  it,  by  varying  the  garnitures,  purees,  decorations,  etc. 

Cold  roast-beef  is  prepared  like  boiled  beef. 

BAKED. 

Place  the  meat  in  a  bake-pan,  with  cold  water  about 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep;  spread  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  butter  on  the  meat,  cover  it  with  a  piece  of  buttered 
paper;  baste  often  over  the  paper,  lest  it  should  burn; 
keep  the  bottom  of  the  pan  covered  with  juice ;  if  the 
water  and  juice  are  absorbed,  add  a  little  cold  water  and 
continue  basting ;  turn  over  two  or  three  times,  but  keep 
the  paper  on  the  top ;  if  it  is  burnt,  put  on  another  piece. 
The  paper  keeps  the  top  of  the  meat  moist,  and  prevent* 
it  from  burning  or  drying. 

When  done,  it  is  served  like  roasted  beef. 


168  BEEF. 

FILLET. 

The  tenderloin  and  even  the  sirloin  are  sometimes 
called,  or  rather  known,  under  the  name  of  fillet,  when 
cooked.  It  comes  from  the  French  filet — tenderloin. 

Sirloin  means  surloin;  like  stock  and  several  others, 
sirloin  is  purely  English.  The  surloin  is  the  upper  part 
of  the  loin,  as  its  prefix  indicates ;  it  is  surlonge  in  French. 

A  fillet  is  generally  larded  with  salt  pork  by  means  of 
a  small  brass  larding-needle ;  the  salt  pork  cut  in  strips 
to  fit  the  needle  (see  LARDING). 

If  yon  use  a  tenderloin,  trim  off  the  fat.  If  it  is  a 
piece  of  ribs,  prepared  fillet-like,  shape  it  like  a  fillet  as 
near  as  possible ;  the  rest  is  used  as  directed  above. 

A  piece  of  ribs  is  certainly  cheaper,  and  can  be  had  at 
any  time,  while  the  other  is  as  difficult  to  procure  as  it  is 
dear. 

To  lard  it. — Have  a  towel  in  your  left  hand  and  place 
the  meat  over  it,  the  most  flat  and  smooth  side  up,  holding 
it  so  that  the  upper  part  will  present  a  somewhat  convex 
surface,  and  commence  larding  at  either  end  and  finishing 
at  the  other,  in  this  way : 

Run  the  needle  through  the  upper  part  of  the  convex 
surface,  commencing  at  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  from 
the  edge  of  one  side,  running  through  the  meat  a  distance 
of  about  one  inch  and  a  half,  about  half  an  inch  in  depth 
at  the  middle,  and  the  strip  of  salt  pork  sticking  out  at 
both  ends;  that  is,  where  the  needle  was  introduced  into 
the  meat,  and  where  it  came  out  of  it.  Repeat  this  till 
you  have  a  row  of  strips  across  the  meat,  the  strips  being 
about  one-third  of  an  inch  apart. 

Lard  row  after  row  in  the  same  way,  and  till  the  whole 
flat  side  is  covered ;  the  ends  of  the  strips  of  pork  sticking 
out  of  each  row  being  intermingled. 


BEEF.  169 

To  cook  it. — It  may  be  roasted  or  baked  exactly  in 
the  same  way  as  directed  above  for  roast  and  baked  beef. 
It  may  also  be  improved  in  the  same  way. 

When  cooked  in  either  of  the  two  above  ways,  it  is 
served  with  its  gravy  only,  or — 

With  fried  potatoes.  With  tomatoes. 

With  potato  coquettes.        With  quenelles. 
With  truffles.  With  Madeira-sauce. 

With  green  peas. 

The  same  as  roast  or  baked  beef  above.     It  may  also  be 
decorated  in  the  same  way. 

A  fillet  is  also  cooked  exactly  like  beef  a  la  mode,  with 
the  exception  that  it  does  not  require  as  long ;  for  a  large 
one,  it  requires  only  about  three  hours. 

When  cooked  thus,  it  is  served  with  its  gravy  strained, 
and  decorated  with  skewers,  as  above. 

With  Macaroni. — While  the  fillet  is  cooking,  prepare 
a  pound  of  macaroni  aujus,  and  serve  the  fillet  on  tho 
macaroni  spread  on  a  dish ;  the  gravy  of  the  fillet  being 
mixed  with  the  macaroni  when  both  are  done. 

Fillet  a  la  Brillat-Savarin. — Cook  it  in  a  pan  as 
above,  and  serve  it  decorated  with  sweetbreads  and  slices 
of  truffles,  as  described  for  roast-beef,  and  with  a  Cham- 
pagne-sauce. 

A  la  Chateaubriand. — This  is  prepared  and  served  like 
the  preceding  one,  with  a  Madeira  instead  of  a  Champagne 
sauce. 

Saute. — When  cooked  in  a  pan  as  directed  above, 
cook  mushrooms  about  ten  minutes  in  the  gravy,  and 
serve  mushrooms  and  gravy  all  around  the  meat. 

A  fillet  saute  is  always  made  with  a  tenderloin. 

As  is  seen  by  the  above  receipts,  all  the  good  pieces 
of  beef  may  be  prepared  in  the  ways  described,  ribs  as 
8 


170  BEEF. 

well  as  other  pieces,  and  from  the  plainest  to  the  most 
recherche  way,  from  the  cheapest  to  the  most  costly 
manner. 

Several  names  are  given  to  the  different  ways  we  have 
described,  such  as  fillet  financiere  (fillet  served  with  a 
ragout  of  chicken-combs),  fillet  Eichelieu  (fillet  with  half 
a  dozen  skewers),  etc. 

En  Bellevue. — This  is  the  best  way  to  serve  it  cold. 
It  may  be  served  whole,  or  part  of  it,  that  is,  what  is  left 
from  the  preceding  dinner.  For  a  supper  or  lunch,  it  is 
the  most  handy  dish,  as  it  can  be  prepared  in  advance. 
Make  some  meat  jelly  or  calf 's-foot  jelly,  put  a  thickness 
of  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  of  it  in  a  tin  dish  or 
mould,  large  enough  to  hold  the  fillet ;  then  place  on  ice 
to  cool,  and  when  congealed  and  firm  enough,  place  the 
fillet  on  it,  the  larded  side  downward ;  fill  now  with  jelly 
till  the  fillet  is  covered,  and  have  a  thickness  of  about 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  above  it. 

The  fillet  must  not  touch  the  sides  of  the  mould,  but 
be  perfectly  enveloped  in  jelly.  If  the  thickness  of  jelly  is 
even  on  both  sides  and  all  around,  it  is  much  more  sightly. 
When  the  jelly  is  perfectly  congealed  and  firm,  place  a 
dish  over  the  mould,  turn  upside  down,  and  remove  it. 
Serve  as  it  is. 

As  a  tenderloin  is  very  expensive  and  rather  difficult 
to  get,  buy  a  fine  piece  of  ribs,  cut  the  fleshy  part  of  the 
shape  of  a  tenderloin,  and  prepare  it  as  directed  above  ;  it 
makes  an  excellent  and  sightly  dish.  The  bony  part  with 
the  rest  of  the  flesh  is  used  to  make  broth. 

RIBS. 

With  Vinegar. — Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fat  in  a 
saucepan,  and  set  it  on  the  fire;  when  melted,  put  the 


BEEF.  171 

beef  in  ;  say  a  piece  of  three  pounds,  from  the  round, 
rump,  or  rib-piece ;  brown  it  on  every  side ;  add  one  gill 
of  vinegar,  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  cover  the 
pan,  and  keep  on  a  rather  sharp  fire  for  fifteen  minutes; 
then  add  one  carrot  and  one  onion,  both  sliced,  a  stalk  of 
thyme,  three  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  and  six  pepper-corns, 
a  pint  of  broth,  and  same  of  water ;  boil  gently  till  done ; 
dish  the  meat,  strain  the  sauce  over  it,  and  serve. 

Ribs  may  also  be  broiled  like  steaks,  and  served  either 
with  a  maitre  tflidtd,  mushrooms,  potatoes,  or  water- 
cress. The  low  cuts  of  beef  are  generally  used  to  make 
broth,  or  stewed. 

STEAKS. 

The  best  piece  of  beef  for  a  steak  is  the  tenderloin. 

What  is  called  a  porter-house  steak  is  the  tenderloin, 
sirloin,  and  other  surrounding  parts  cut  in  slices. 

A  steak  should  never  be  less  than  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness. 

It  should  always  be  broiled;  it  is  inferior  in  taste  and 
flavor  when  cooked  in  a  pan  (saute),  or  other  utensil,  but 
many  persons  cook  it  so,  not  having  the  necessary  fire  or 
utensil  to  broil ;  broiled  or  saute,  it  is  served  alike. 

The  same  rules  are  applied  to  steaks  of  venison,  pork, 
etc. ;  turtle-steaks  are  also  prepared  like  beef-steaks. 

A  good  steak  does  not  need  any  pounding ;  the  object 
of  pounding  a  steak  is  to  break  its  fibres.  A  pounded 
steak  may  appear  or  taste  more  tender  to  a  person  not 
knowing  or  never  having  tasted  a  good  steak,  but  an  ex- 
perienced palate  cannot  be  deceived. 

It  is  better  to  broil  before  than  over  the  fire.  (See 
BROILING.) 

To  cook  a  steak  in  an  oven  or  drum,  or  any  other 


172  BEEF. 

badly-invented  machine  or  contrivance,  is  not  to  broil  it, 
but  to  spoil  it. 

To  make  tender. — When  cut,  trimmed,  salted,  and 
peppered,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  and  sprinkle  some  sweet- 
oil  or  melted  butter  over  them ;  turn  them  over  in  the 
bowl  every  two  or  three  hours  for  from  six  to  twelve 
hours. 

To  cut  and  prepare. — Cut  the  meat  in  round  or  oval 
slices,  as  even  as  possible,  of  any  size,  about  one  inch  in 
thickness,  and  trim  off  the  fibres  and  thin  skin  that  may 
be  around.  Do  not  cut  off  the  fat,  but  flatten  a  little  each 
slice  with  a  chopper. 

To  broil. — When  the  steaks  are  cut  and  prepared  as 
directed,  they  are  slightly  greased  on  both  sides  with  lard 
or  butter  (if  they  have  not  been  in  a  bowl  with  oil  or 
butter  before  cooking  them),  placed  on  a  warmed  gridiron, 
set  before  or  on  a  sharp  fire,  turned  over  once  or  twice, 
and  taken  off  when  rather  underdone.  Salt  and  pepper 
them,  dish,  spread  a  maitre  cThotel  over  them,  and  serve 
very  warm. 

Cooks  and  epicures  differ  about  the  turning  over  of 
steaks;  also  about  broiling  them  with  or  without  salt; 
some  say  that  they  must  not  be  turned  over  twice,  others 
are  of  opinion  that  they  must  be  turned  over  two  or  three, 
and  even  more  times;  some  say  that  they  must  be  salted 
and  peppered  before  broiling,  others  say  they  must  not ; 
we  have  tried  the  two  ways  many  times,  and  did  not  find 
any  difference  ;  if  there  is  any  difference  at  all,  it  is  in  the 
quality  of  the  meat,  or  in  the  person's  taste,  or  in  the 
cook's  care. 

When  the  steak  is  served  as  above,  place  some  fried 
potatoes  ah1  around,  and  serve  hot.  Instead  of  fried  pota- 
toes, put  some  water-cress  all  around,  add  a  few  drops 


BEEF.  173 

of  vinegar,  and  serve.  The  water-cress  is  to  be  put  on 
raw  and  cold. 

When  the  steak  is  dished,  spread  some  anchovy-butter 
on  it  instead  of  a  maitre  cF  hotel,  and  serve  warm  also.  It 
may  also  be  served  with  lobster-butter  instead  of  a  maitre 
cThotel.  Steaks  are  also  served  with  horse-radish  butter, 
and  surrounded  with  fried  or  souffle  potatoes. 

With  a  Tomato-Sauce.  —  Broil  and  serve  the  steak  as 
directed  above,  and  serve  it  with  a  tomato-sauce  instead 
of  a  maitre  cChotel. 

With  a  Poivrade  or  Piquante  Sauce.  —  Broil  and  serve 
with  a  poivrade  or  piquante  sauce,  instead  of  a  maitre 


With  Egg.  —  When  the  steaks  are  cut  and  prepared  as 
directed,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
then  broil,  and  serve  them  with  either  a  maitre  tfhdtel  or 
tomato-sauce,  or  with  potatoes,  etc. 

With  Truffles.  —  Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  in  it  ;  as  soon  as  melted  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  stir,  and,  when  turning  brown,  add  also 
about  a  gill  of  broth  ;  stir  again  for  five  or  six  minutes, 
when  mix  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  good  gravy  with 
the  rest  ;  boil  gently  ten  minutes,  take  from  the  fire  ;  slice 
two  or  three  truffles,  mix  them  with  the  rest  ;  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  ;  give  one  boil,  turn  over  the  steak  which 
you  have  broiled  as  directed,  and  serve. 

With  Mushrooms.  —  Proceed  as  for  truffles  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  use  mushrooms. 

Fancy  Steak.  —  Cut  the  steak  two  or  three  inches 
thick,  butter  slightly  both  sides,  lay  it  on  a  gridiron  well 
greased  and  warmed  ;  set  it  on  a  moderate  tire  and  broil 
it  well  ;  to  cook  it  through  it  must  be  turned  over  many 
times,  on  account  of  its  thickness.  Serve  like  another 


BEEP. 

steak,  with  a  maitre  d'hotel,  poivrade,  potatoes,  or  water- 
cress, etc. 

BOILED  BEEF. 

This  is  understood  to  be  beef  that  has  been  used  to 
mab*  broth — a  rump-piece  or  a  rib-piece,  boned  and  tied 
with  twine  before  cooking  it. 


BEEF.  175 

With  Carrots  and  Turnips. — Remove  the  twine,  and 
place  the  piece  of  beef  on  the  middle  of  a  dish,  with  car- 
rots and  turnips,  cut  with  a  fruit-corer,  prepared  au  jus  or 
glazed,  and  arranged  all  around  it ;  also,  some  skewers  run 
through  pieces  of  carrot  and  turnip,  and  then  stuck  in  the 
piece  of  beef.  (See  cut  p.  174.)  Serve  warm. 

With  Brussels  Cabbage,  or  Sprouts. — Serve  the  beef 
as  above,  surrounded  with  sprouts  au  jus,  and  also  orna- 
mented with  skewers  run  through  sprouts,  with  a  piece  of 
turnip  between  each. 

In  Bourgeoise. — Serve  the  piece  of  beef  warm,  deco- 
rated if  handy,  and  surrounded  with  fried  potatoes  cut 
with  a  vegetable  spoon  or  in  fillets,  and  gravy  spread  over 
the  whole. 

If  not  decorated,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  may  be  spread 
on  the  beef. 

With  Onions. — Serve  the  beef  as  above,  and  surround 
it  with  glazed  onions. 

With  Celery. — When  served  as  above,  the  meat  is  sur- 
rounded with  a  puree  of  celery. 

With  Cauliflowers. — Serve  warm,  with  a  garniture  of 
cauliflowers  all  around.  It  may  be  decorated  with 
skewers. 

With  Chestnuts. — Glaze  chestnuts  as  for  dessert ;  run 
the  skewers  through  a  chestnut  first,  then  through  a  fried 
potato,  and  then  through  a  slice  of  carrot,  and  stick  one 
at  each  end  of  the  piece  of  beef;  put  chestnuts  all  around, 
spread  some  gravy  over  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Croquettes. — Proceed  as  for  croquettes  of  chicken. 

Hollandaise. — Cut  the  meat  in  fillets  and  put  it  in  a 
saucepan,  with  about  two  ounces  of  fat  or  butter  to  a 
pound  of  meat ;  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  for  ten  minutes. 
Then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  and  stir  about  one  min- 


176  BEEF. 

ute,  with  warm  water  enough  to  half  cover  the  meat,  and 
boil  about  five  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then. 

Mix  together  in  a  bowl  two  yolks  of  eggs,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  the  sauce 
from  the  saucepan  in  which  the  beef  is ;  turn  the  mixture 
into  the  saucepan,  stir  and  mix,  add  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  give  one  boil,  and  serve  warm. 

Broiled. — Cut  the  meat  in  slices  about  one  inch  in 
thickness,  broil,  and  serve  like  steaks. 

Au  Gratin. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  sprinkle  into  it  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  two  or  three  mushrooms 
chopped,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onions,  same  of  pars- 
ley, a  pinch  of  allspice,  salt,  and  pepper ;  stir  for  ahouttwo 
minutes,  add  a  little  broth  to  make  the  whole  rather  liquid. 
Cut  one  pound  of  boiled  beef  in  slices,  place  them  in  a 
tin  or  silver  dish,  turn  the  mixture  over  them,  dust  with 
bread-crumbs ;  put  half  a  dozen  pieces  of  butter  here  and 
there  on  the  top,  and  bake  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 

Take  from  the  oven  when  done,  add  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  juice  all  over,  and  serve  warm  in  the  dish  in  which 
it  was  baked. 

With  a  maitre  (Phote!,  piguante,  Mayonnaise,  Robert, 
ravigote,  Tartar,  or  tomato  sauce. 

Cut  it  in  slices,  place  them  on  a  dish,  spread  on  them 
some  chopped  parsley  and  slices  of  pickled  cucumbers, 
and  send  thus  to  the  table,  with  either  of  the  above  sauces 
in  a  saucer  to  be  used  with  it. 

IN  MIROTOK 

Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in  a  stewpan 
(this  is  for  about  two  pounds),  and  set  it  on  the  fire  ;  when 
melted,  put  in  it  four  middling-sized  onions,  cut  in  slices  • 


BEEF.  177 

when  nearly  cooked,  sprinkle  on  them  a  pinch  of  flour, 
and  stir  till  it  takes  a  golden  color;  then  add  half  a  glass 
of  white  wine,  and  as  much  of  broth,  also  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  boil  until  well  cooked,  and  till 
the  sauce  is  reduced ;  then  add  the  boiled  beef,  cut  in 
slices,  and  leave  it  fifteen  minutes ;  dish  it,  pour  on  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar,  and  serve. 

Hashed. — Proceed  exactly  as  for  miroton,  except  that 
the  beef  is  cut  in  strips  or  chopped,  and  that  no  wine  is 
used. 

IN  SALAD. 

Cut  it  in  very  thin  and  short  slices,  and  place  them  on 
a  dish  with  chopped  parsley ;  put  in  a  saucer  sweet-oil  and 
vinegar,  according  to  the  quantity  of  beef  you  have,  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  oil  to  one  of  vinegar,  salt,  pepper,  and 
some  mustard ;  beat  the  whole  a  little,  pour  on  the  slices, 
and  serve. 

CORNED  BEEF. 

Corned  beef  is  generally  boiled.  Soak  the  corned 
beef  in  cold  water  for  some  time,  according  to  how  salt 
it  is. 

Set  it  on  the  fire,  covered  with  cold  water,  and  boil 
gently  till  done. 

With  Cabbage. — Blanch  the  cabbage  for  about  five 
minutes,  and  drain.  Then  put  it  to  cook  with  the  corned 
beef  when  the  latter  is  about  half  done;  serve  both  on 
the  same  dish,  or  separately,  according  to  taste. 

Corned  beef,  when  boiled  as  above,  without  cabbage, 
can  be  served  and  decorated,  in  every  way,  like  boiled 
beef.  It  certainly  makes  sightly  as  well  as  good  dishes 
for  a  family  dinner. 

A  piece  of  corned  bee£  surrounded  with  a  garniture 
8* 


ITS  BEEF. 

as  we  have  described  above,  decorated  with  skewers,  is 
very  often  served  as  a  releve  at  an  extra  dinner. 

Cold  Corned  Beef. — A  whole  piece,  or  part  of  it,  may 
be  served  en  JSellevue,  the  same  as  a  fillet  en  Bellevue  ;  it 
is  also  excellent. 

TONGUE. 

Clean  and  blanch  it  for  about  ten  minutes — till  the 
white  skin  can  be  easily  removed.  After  ten  minutes  boil- 
ing, try  if  it  comes  off;  if  not,  boil  a  little  longer,  then 
skin  it  well. 

To  boil. — When  skinned,  put  it  in  your  soup-kettle 
with  the  beef,  etc.,  to  make  broth,  and  leave  it  till  done. 
When  boiled,  the  tongue  may  be  served  and  decorated 
exactly  the  same  as  boiled  beef,  in  every  way. 

Stewed. — Cut  square  fillets  of  bacon,  which  dredge  in 
a  mixture  of  chopped  parsley,  cives,  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
little  allspice ;  lard  the  tongue  with  the  fillets.  Put  in  a 
crockery  stewpan  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice,  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  one  of  sweet  basil, 
two  bay-leaves,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  cloves,  two  carrots 
cut  in  pieces,  four  small  onions,  salt,  and  pepper ;  lay  the 
tongue  on  the  whole,  wet  with  half  a  glass  of  white  wine 
and  a  glass  of  broth ;  set  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  simmer 
about  five  hours — keep  it  well  covered;  then  put  the 
tongue  on  a  dish,  strain  the  sauce  on  it,  and  serve.  It  is 
a  delicious  dish. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  vegetables  around,  or  with 
tomato-sauce. 

Another  way. — When  prepared  as  above  directed,  put 
it  on  the  fire  with  the  same  seasonings  as  the  preceding 
one ;  simmer  four  hours  and  take  from  the  fire ;  put  the 
tongue  on  a  dish  and  let  it  cool,  then  place  it  on  the  spit 


BEEF.  179 

before  a  good  fire,  and  finish  the  cooking ;  serve  it  warm 
with  an  oil,  or  piquante  sauce. 

If  any  is  left  of  either  of  the  two,  put  in  a  pan  the 
next  day,  wet  with  a  little  broth,  set  on  the  fire,  and  when 
warm  serve  it  on  a  puree  ;  do  not  allow  it  to  boil. 

BRAIN. 

Soak  it  in  lukewarm  water  and  clean  well,  so  as  to 
have  it  free  from  blood,  fibres,  and  thin  skin ;  then  soak 
it  again  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours  in  winter  and  six 
in  summer.  Put  in  a  crockery  stewpan  one  ounce  of  ba- 
con cut  in  slices,  one  carrot  cut  in  pieces,  two  sprigs  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove,  four  small  onions 
cut  in  slices,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  cives,  salt,  pepper,  a 
pint  of  white  wine,  as  much  of  broth,  and  then  the  brain ; 
set  on  a  moderate  fire  for  half  an  hour  and  take  it  off; 
dish  the  brain  and  place  it  in  a  warm  place ;  then  strain 
the  sauce,  put  it  back  on  the  fire  with  the  brain  in  it,  add 
two  or  three  mushrooms  cut  in  pieces,  leave  on  the  fire 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve  it,  parted  in  two, 
with  fried  parsley  around. 

Another  way. — When  the  brain  is  cleaned  and  pre- 
pared as  above,  cut  it  in  eight  pieces.  Mix  well  together 
a  little  flour,  chopped  parsley  and  cives,  also  a  pinch  of 
allspice ;  roll  the  pieces  of  brain  in  it,  so  as  to  allow  the 
mixture  to  adhere  to  them ;  have  some  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  on  the  fire,  and  when  hot  put  the  pieces  of  brain  in 
t ;  fry  gently,  and  serve  with  fried  parsley  around. 

HEART. 

Soak  it  in  lukewarm  water  for  two  hours,  free  it  from 
blood  and  skin,  drain  and  wipe  dry ;  then  stuff  it  with 
Bausage-meat,  to  which  you  have  added  three  or  four  onions 


180  BEEF. 

chopped  fine,  put  it  in  a  rather  quick  oven,  or  on  the  spit 
before  a  good  fire  (if  on  the  spit,  envelop  it  with  buttered 
paper),  basting  from  time  to  time  ;  it  takes  about  an  hour 
and  a  half  to  cook  a  middling-sized  one ;  serve  it  with 
a  vinaigrette,  piquante,  poivrade,  or  ravigote  sauce. 

It  may  also  beiried  with  butter,  and  cut  in  slices,  lut 
it  is  not  as  good  as  in  the  above  way  ;  it  generally  becomes 
hard  in  frying. 

KIDNEYS. 

First  split  the  kidneys  in  four  pieces,  trim  off  as  care- 
fully as  possible  the  sinews  and  fat  that  are  inside,  then 
cut  in  small  pieces. 

Saute. — The  quicker  this  is  done  the  better  the  kidney. 
For  a  whole  one  put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan and  set  it  on  a  very  sharp  fire,  toss  it  round  so  as 
to  melt  the  butter  as  fast  as  possible,  but  without  allowing 
it  to  blacken ;  as  soon  as  melted,  turn  the  cut  kidney  in, 
stir  now  and  then  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  about  three 
minutes,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  again  the 
same  as  before  for  about  one  minute,  when  add  a  gill  of 
white  wine  and  about  one  of  broth ;  stir  again  now  and 
then  till  the  kidney  is  rather  underdone,  and  serve  im- 
mediately. 

If  the  kidney  is  allowed  to  boil  till  perfectly  done,  it 
will  very  seldom  be  tender. 

It  may  be  done  with  water  instead  of  wine  and  broth ; 
in  that  case,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  just  before 
serving  it. 

Prepare  and  serve  it  also  as  calf  s-kidney,  in  every  way 
as  directed  for  the  same. 

LIVER. 

Cut  the  liver  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness, sprinkle  on  them  salt  and  pepper,  place  them  on  a 


BEEF.  181 

gridiron,  and  set  on  a  sharp  fire ;  turn  over  only  once,  and 
serve  rather  underdone,  with  butter  and  chopped  parsley, 
kneaded  together  and  spread  between  the  slices. 

A  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  may  be  added. 

Another  way. — When  the  liver  is  cut  in  slices,  as 
above,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire, 
and  when  melted,  lay  the  slices  in  ;  turn  over  only  once, 
then  serve,  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  chopped 
parsley. 

TAIL. 

Cut  the  tail  at  the  joint,  so  as  to  make  as  many  pieces 
as  there  are  joints ;  throw  the  pieces  in  boiling  water  for 
fifteen  minutes,  and  drain  them.  When  cold  and  dry, 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  bay-leaf,  two  onions,  with 
a  clove  stuck  in  each,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  one  of 
thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  salt,  pepper,  half  a  wine-glass  of 
white  wine,  and  a  few  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  ;  cover  with 
broth  or  water,  and  set  on  a  moderate  fire  for  two  hours. 
Dish  the  pieces,  strain  the  sauce  on  them,  and  serve  with 
a  garniture  of  cabbage,  or  with  any  puree. 

TRIPE. 

How  to  clean  and  prepare. — Scrape  and  wash  it  well 
several  times  in  boiling  water,  changing  the  water  every 
time,  then  put  in  very  cold  water  for  about  twelve  hours, 
changing  the  water  two  or  three  times ;  place  it  in  a  pan, 
cover  it  with  cold  water;  season  with  parsley,  cives. 
onions,  one  or  two  cloves  of  garlic,  cloves,  salt,  and  pep 
per ;  boil  gently  five  hours,  take  out  and  drain. 

In  case  the  water  should  boil  away,  add  more. 

You  may  save  all  the  trouble  of  cleaning  and  prepar- 
ing, by  buying  it  ready  prepared,  as  it  is  generally  sold 
in  cities. 


182  BEEF. 

Broiled. — When  prepared,  dip  it  in  lukewarm  butter, 
roll  in  bread-crumbs,  place  on  a  gridiron,  and  set  it  on  a 
moderate  fire ;  turn  over  as  many  times  as  is  necessary  to 
broil  it  well,  and  serve  witli  a  vinaigrette,  piquante,  or 
Tartar  sauce  ;  also  with  a  tomato-sauce. 

Stewed. — Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  salt  pork, 
cut  in  dice,  three  carrots  cut  in  slices,  eight  small  onions, 
four  cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  piece 
of  nutmeg,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  a  dozen 
stalks  of  cives,  six  pepper-corns,  the  fourth  part  of  an  ox- 
foot  cut  in  four  pieces,  salt,  pepper,  about  two  ounces  of 
ham  cut  in  dice,  then  three  pounds  of  double  tripe  on  the 
whole ;  spread  two  ounces  of  fat  bacon  cut  in  thin  slices 
on  the  top ;  wet  with  half  white  wine  and  half  water,  or 
water  only  if  you  choose ;  put  the  cover  on,  and  if  not 
air-tight,  put  some  paste  around  ;  set  in  a  slow  oven  for  six 
hours,  then  take  the  tripe  out,  strain  the  sauce,  skim  off 
the  fat  when  cool,  then  put  the  sauce  and  tripe  again  in 
your  pan,  warm  well,  and  serve  in  crockery  plates  or 
bowls  placed  on  chafing-dishes,  as  it  is  necessary  to  keep 
it  warm  while  eating.  It  is  good  with  water  only,  but  bet- 
ter with  half  wine.  This  is  also  called  a  la  mode  de  Caen. 

In  Poulette. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  direct- 
ed, cut  one  pound  of  tripe  in  strips  about  one  and  a  half 
inches  broad,  then  cut  again  contrariwise,  so  as  to  make 
small  fillets.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  mix  cold ;  add  two  gills 
of  water,  mix  again,  set  on  the  fire,  stir  now  and  then,  give 
one  boil,  put  the  tripe  in,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste ;  boil 
two  minutes  and  dish  the  whole;  put  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  all  over,  and  serve  hot. 

Aux  Fines  Herbes. — Broil  the  tripe,  and  serve  it  with 
sauce  fines  herbes. 


BEEF.  183 

Tripe  may  be  bought  pickled ;  it  is  then  served  at 
breakfast  and  lunch. 

SMOKED  BEEF'S  TONGUE. 

Soak  the  smoked  tongue  in  cold  water  for  at  least  three 
hours,  change  the  water  once  or  twice  during  the  process. 
Then  take  off  the  thin  skin  or  strip  around  if  there  is 
any ;  put  the  tongue  in  a  saucepan  with  two  sprigs  of 
thyme,  two  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  six  small 
onions,  and  a  clove  of  garlic  ;  fill  the  pan  with  cold  water, 
and  let  simmer  about  six  hours.  If  the  water  is  boiling 
away,  add  more.  Take  from  the  fire,  let  cool  as  it  is,  then 
take  it  out  of  the  water ;  clean  it,  let  dry,  and  serve  it 
when  cold. 

Cut  the  tongue,  when  prepared  as  above,  either  in 
slices  or  in  strips,  and  use  for  sandwiches,  or  serve  it 
whole,  with  a  cucumber,  piquante,  poivrade,  or  tomato 
sauce,  at  breakfast  or  lunch.  It  may  also  be  served  in 
vinaigrette. 

When  prepared  as  directed  above,  serve  it  as  a  fillet 
of  beef  en  Bellevue,  for  supper,  lunch,  or  breakfast.  It 
makes  a  fine  and  delicious  dish. 

It  is  used  also  to  stuff  boned  turkeys  and  other  birds, 
as  directed  in  those  receipts ;  always  boil  it  as  directed 
above,  before  using  it. 

When  served  with  any  of  the  above  sauces,  it  may  be 
decorated  with  skewers  the  same  as  boiled  beef. 

Larded. — When  boiled,  lard  it  with  salt  pork,  and 
bake  it  for  about  one  hour  in  a  moderately  heated  oven, 
and  serve  it  with  the  same  sauces  as  above. 

Cut  in  slices  and  served  with  parsley,  it  is  a,  hors* 
tfceuvre. 


MUTTON 


HOW    TO    SELECT. 

You  may  be  sure  that  mutton  is  good  when  the 
flesh  is  rather  black,  and  the  fat  white ;  if  the  fat  breaks 
easily,  it  is  young. 

The  wether  is  much  superior  to  the  ewe. 

You  will  know  if  a  leg  of  mutton  comes  from  a 
wether,  if  there  is  a  large  and  hard  piece  of  fat  on  one 
side  at  the  larger  and  upper  end ;  if  from  a  ewe,  that  part 
is  merely  a  kind  of  skin,  with  a  little  fat  on  it. 

ROASTED. 

A  piece  of  mutton  to  roast  must  not  be  too  fresh,  it  is 
much  more  tender  when  the  meat  is  rather  seasoned,  but 
not  tainted,  or  what  is  sometimes  called  "  high."  When 
on  the  spit,  place  it  near  the  fire,  baste  immediately  with 
a  little  melted  butter,  and  then  with  the  drippings.  As 
soon  as  you  notice  that  a  kind  of  crust  or  coating  has 
formed  around  the  piece  of  meat,  remove  it  a  little  from 
the  fire  by  degrees  ;  and  continue  basting  till  done.  The 
quicker  the  crust  is  formed,  though  without  burning  the 
meat,  the  more  juicy  and  tender  it  will  be. 

Roast  mutton,  like  roast  beef,  is  better  served  rather 
underdone,  but  should  be  a  little  more  done  than  beef. 
When  properly  roasted,  the  meat,  whatever  piece  it  may  be, 


MUTTON.  185 

cither  a  loin  or  saddle,  a  leg,  shoulder,  or  a  breast,  may  be 
served  with  its  gravy  only ;  that  is,  with  what  is  in  the 
dripping-pan  after  having  removed  all  the  fat,  also  on  a 
soubise  or  on  a  puree  of  sorrel.  The  above  pieces  may 
also  be  served  in  the  following  ways : 

With  Potatoes. — When  dished,  surround  the  meat 
with  potatoes,  either  fried,  mashed,  or  in  croquettes. 

With  Quenelles. — Dish  the  meat,  place  half  a  dozen 
quenelles  around  it,  and  decorate  it  with  skewers  which 
you  have  run  through  a  quenelle  and  then  through  a  craw- 
fish and  stuck  in  the  meat. 

With  Carrots.  —  When  dished,  put  all  around  the 
meat  carrots  au  jus,  or  glazed  and  cut  with  a  vegetable 
spoon. 

With  Spinach. — Spinach  au  jus  when  done  is  spread 
on  the  dish,  the  meat  is  put  on  it,  and  served  warm.  Do 
the  same  with  a  puret  of  cauliflowers. 


BAKED. 

All  the  above  pieces  are  baked  as  well  as  roasted; 
and  when  done,  served  exactly  in  the  same  and  every 
way  as  when  roasted. 

Put  the  meat  in  a  baking-pan  with  a  little  butter  spread 
over  it ;  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water, 
then  put  in  a  quick  oven.  After  it  has  been  hi  the  oven 
for  about  fifteen  minutes,  baste  and  place  a  piece  of  but- 
tered paper  on  the  top  of  the  meat.  If  the  bottom  of 
the  pan  is  getting  dry,  add  a  little  more  water,  but  it  is 
seldom  the  case  except  with  inferior  meat.  When  you 
see  rather  too  much  fat  in  the  pan,  take  from  the  oven, 
turn  the  fat  off,  put  cold  water  instead,  and  put  back  in 
the  oven  to  finish  the  cooking.  If  the  paper  burns,  put 


186  MUTTON. 

on  another  piece ;  but  by  basting  often  over  the  paper,  it 
will  remain  pretty  long  before  burning. 

With  a  small  knife  or  a  skewer  you  ascertain  when 
done  enough  or  to  your  liking ;  never  cook  by  guess  or 
by  hearsay;  the  oven  may  be  quicker  one  day  than 
another,  or  slower;  the  meat  may  be  more  tender,  or 
more  hard;  remember  that  if  you  cook  by  guess  (we 
mean,  to  put  down,  as  a  matter  of  course,  that  it  takes  so 
many  hours,  or  so  many  minutes,  to  bake  this  or  that),  and 
stick  to  it,  you  will  fail  nine  times  out  of  ten.  When 
done,  serve  as  directed  above. 

In  Croquettes. — Make  and  serve  as  chicken  croquettes. 

In  Haricot  or  Ragout. — Take  a  neck  or  breast  piece 
of  mutton,  which  cut  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long  and 
one  broad.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  (say  three  pounds) 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  occa- 
sionally till  turning  rather  brown,  then  add  a  tablespoon- 
fill  of  flour,  stir  for  one  minute,  cover  with  cold  water, 
add  one  onion  whole,  salt,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  com- 
posed of  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf, 
and  a  clove,  one  clove  of  garlic,  chopped  fine.  Boil 
gently  till  about  two-thirds  done,  stirring  now  and  then ; 
add  potatoes,  peeled,  quartered,  and  cut,  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, of  the  shape  of  a  carpel  of  orange.  The  proportion 
is,  about  as  many  pieces  of  potatoes  as  of  meat.  Boil 
again  gently  till  done,  place  the  pieces  of  meat  in  the 
middle  of  the  dish,  the  potatoes  around,  the  juice  or  sauce 
over  the  whole,  and  serve.  Skim  off  the  fat,  if  any,  be- 
fore turning  the  sauce  over  the  rest. 

BREAST  BOILED. 

Put  the  breast  entire  in  a  saucepan,  with  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  two  of  parsley,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove,  salt,  and  pep- 


MUTTON.  187 

per,  cover  with  water,  set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  till 
cooked,  and  then  drain.  Put  in  a  frying-pan  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet-oil,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  when  hot  lay  the  breast  in  and  fry  it  all 
around  for  five  minutes ;  then  take  it  off,  roll  it  in  bread- 
crumbs, place  it  on  a  gridiron,  and  set  on  a  good  fire  for 
five  minutes ;  turn  it  over  once  only,  then  serve  it  with  a 
piquante,  poivrade,  or  tomato  sauce.  It  may  also  be 
served  on  a  puree  of  sorrel. 

NECK  BROILED. 

Prepare  and  serve  exactly  the  same  as  a  breast  broiled. 

A  breast  or  a  neck  piece  broiled  may  be  served  on  a 
souUse.  It  may  also  be  served  with  a  mattre  cThtftel  or 
mushroom  sauce,  also  with  a  piquante  or  any  other  sharp 
sauce. 

CHOPS. 

Broiled. — Trim  and  flatten  the  chops  with  a  chopper, 
sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  on  both  sides,  dip  them  in  melted 
butter,  place  them  on  a  gridiron,  and  set  on  a  sharp  fire,  turn 
over  two  or  three  times  to  broil  properly,  and  when  done, 
serve  them  around  a  dish,  one  lapping  over  the  other, 
etc.,  and  serve  with  the  gravy.  It  takes  about  twelve 
minutes  to  cook  with  a  good  fire. 

Another  way. — When  trimmed  and  flattened,  dip  them 
in  beaten  egg,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs  and  broil,  either 
as  they  are,  or  enveloped  in  buttered  paper,  and  serve 
them  with  a  maitre  d1  hotel  sauce. 

Sautes. — When  trimmed  and  flattened,  fry  them 
with  a  little  butter  on  both  sides ;  then  take  the  chops 
from  the  pan  and  put  them  in  a  warm  place.  Leave  in 
the  pan  only  a  tablespoonful  of  fat,  add  to  it  three  times 
as  much  broth,  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  and  green  onions, 


188  MUTTON. 

two  shallots,  two  pickled  cucumbers,  all  chopped  fine,  and 
a  pinch  of  allspice ;  give  one  boil,  pour  the  whole  on  the 
chops,  also  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve. 

The  samej  with  Vegetables. — Put  in  a  frying-pan  a 
piece  of  butter  the  &ize  of  two  walnuts  for  four  chops,  set 
on  a  good  fire,  and  when  hot  lay  the  chops  in,  after  hav- 
ing flattened  them  with  a  chopper,  and  having  sprinkled 
salt  and  pepper  on  both  sides ;  add  a  clove,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley  and  green  onions ;  leave  thus  five 
minutes,  turn  over  once  or  twice ;  then  add  also  half  a 
wine-glass  of  broth,  same  of  white  wine,  and  finish  the 
cooking.  Take  the  chops  off  the  pan  and  put  them  in  a 
warm  place.  Boil  the  sauce  in  the  pan  ten  minutes,  turn 
it  on  the  chops,  put  a  garniture  of  vegetables  around,  and 
serve.  Throw  away  the  clove  just  before  serving. 

Another  way. — Have  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg  for  eight  chops  in  a  crockery  vessel,  and  set  it  on  a 
good  fire ;  when  melted  take  from  the  fire,  lay  the  chops 
in,  after  having  flattened  them ;  then  cover  them  with  a 
sheet  of  buttered  paper ;  place  the  vessel  in  a  rather  hot 
oven,  and  when  cooked  serve  them  on  a  maitre  tfJidtel, 
proven$ale,  or  tomato  sauce.  They  may  also  be  served  on 
a  puree  of  sorrel,  or  one  of  potatoes. 

The  same,  in  Papillate. — Cut  the  chops  rather  thin, 
beat  them  gently  and  flatten  them ;  then  proceed  as  for 
veal  cutlets  in  papillotes  in  every  particular. 

Financiere.— Broil  the  chops,  either  with  or  without 
egg  and  crumbs,  and  serve  them  with  a  financiere  garni- 
ture. 

Soubise. — The  chops  are  either  broiled  or  fried ;  either 
broiled  only  dipped  in  lukewarm  butter  or  in  beaten  egg 
and  crumbs  and  then  served  on  a  soubise.  A  little  lemon- 
juice  may  be  added  when  they  are  on  the  dish. 


MUTTON.  189 

Jardiniere. — Cut  two  carrots  and  two  turnips  with  a 
vegetable  spoon  and  set  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and 
salt ;  boil  gently  till  tender,  and  drain.  Boil  also  in  the 
same  way,  in  another  pan  and  till  tender,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  green  peas,  or  string-beans  cut  in  pieces,  and  drain 
also.  Then  put  carrots,  turnips,  peas,  or  beans,  back  on 
the  fire,  in  the  same  pan  with  a  little  gravy  and  broth, 
enough  to  cover  them,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  gently  five 
minutes ;  then  put  the  chops  in  after  being  fried  as 
directed  below ;  boil  another  five  minutes ;  take  from  the 
fire,  place  the  chops  around  the  dish,  one  lapping  over  the 
other,  and  so  that  an  empty  place  is  left  in  the  middle ; 
turn  the  carrots,  turnips,  and  peas,  with  the  sauce  in  that 
empty  place,  and  serve.  Salt  and  pepper  the  chops  on 
both  sides ;  fry  them  in  a  little  butter  till  about  three- 
quarters  done ;  then  take  off  and  put  with  the  vegetables 
as  directed  above.  They  may  be  broiled  instead  of  fried, 
which  is  better. 

A  la  Princesse. — Trim  the  chops  as  usual  and  salt  and 
pepper  both  sides.  Chop  very  fine  a  piece  of  lean  veal 
about  half  a  pound  for  six  or  eight  chops,  according  to 
size,  then  pound  it  and  mix  it  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  a  yolk  of  egg,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs  and  one  ounce  of  butter. 
If  too  firm  the  butter  must  be  melted  so  as  to  mix  better. 
Put  the  mixture  in  a  saucepan,  set  on  a  good  fire,  stir  for 
ten  minutes,  and  take  off.  Then  grease  the  paste-board 
slightly  with  butter,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  the  mixture  here 
and  there  on  it,  roll  and  make  small  balls  of  it,  drop  them 
in  boiling  broth  or  water,  boiling  about  fifteen  minutes, 
and  take  off  with  a  skimmer.  Dip  the  chops  in  melted 
butter,  then  in  beaten  eggs,  and  roll  in  bread-crumbs ;  fry 
them  with  a  little  butter.  Fry  the  balls  also.  Place  the 


190  MUTTON. 

chops  on  the  dish,  the  bones  toward  the  edge,  and  the 
balls  between  the  chops ;  serve  warm.  A  few  balls  may 
be  placed  in  the  middle. 

With  Mushrooms. — Broil  and  serve  them  with  a  puree 
of  mushrooms,  or  with  a  mushroom  garniture. 

Mutton  chops,  broiled,  may  be  served  with  every  kind 
of  butter,  every  garniture,  and  every  sauce,  according  to 
taste  ;  they  may  also  be  served  with  every  puree. 

A  French  cook  once  said  he  could  serve  mutton  chops 
in  three  hundred  ways,  apples  in  two  hundred  ways,  and 
eggs  in  four  hundred  ways.  The  culinary  science  and  art 
is  advanced  enough  to-day  to  double  the  above  figures, 
and  have  plenty  to  spare. 

LEG. 

Besides  being  prepared  as  directed  for  roast  mutton,  a 
leg  of  mutton,  roasted  or  baked,  may  be  served  in  the 
following  ways : 

Boil  white  beans  and  drain  them  as  directed,  then  put 
them  on  the  fire  with  the  drippings  of  the  leg  of  mutton 
for  ten  minutes,  stirring  now  and  then,  and  serve  them  with 
it.  They  may  also  be  kept  in  the  dripping-pan  for  ten 
minutes,  when  boiled  and  drained,  before  the  leg  is  done. 
If  the  leg  of  mutton  is  baked,  set  them  on  the  fire  for 
about  ten  minutes,  with  the  gravy,  stirring  occasionally. 
Serve  either  on  the  same  or  on  a  separate  dish. 

With  Currant  Jelly. — Roast  or  bake  the  leg  of  mut- 
ton, and  serve  it  with  currant  jelly  or  with  a  puree. 

Pr  oven f ale. — With  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  make  a  small 
cut  in  the  leg  of  mutton  here  and  there,  and  large  enough 
to  stick  into  the  cut  a  clove  of  garlic.  Make  as  many  cuts 
as  you  please,  from  six  to  twenty,  according  to  taste,  and 
in  each  cut  stick  a  clove  of  garlic.  When  prepared  thus, 


DEPARTMKXT  (  'V   iiOMP,   !:.C'  ;?,'•  >M  TC3 
HOUSiUIOUJ 


MUTTON.  191 

roast  or  bake,  and  serve  it  with  either  of  the  following 
sauces:  piquante,  poivrade,  ravigote,  remolade,  Robert, 
shallot,  Tartar,  tomato,  and  in  vinaigrette. 

Decorated.  —  A  leg  of  mutton  may  be  decorated  the 
same  as  a  fillet  of  beef. 

Stewed.  —  Take  the  large  bone  out,  leaving  the  bone  at 
the  smaller  end  as  a  handle  ;  cut  off  also  the  bone  below 
the  knuckle,  and  fix  it  with  skewers  ;  then  put  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  pinch  of  allspice,  four  onions,  two  cloves,  two 
carrots  cut  in  four  pieces  each,  a  small  bunch  of  parsley, 
two  bay-leaves,  three  sprigs  of  thyme,  salt,  pepper,  two 
ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  slices,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  broth, 
and  water  enough  just  to  cover  it  ;  set  on  a  good  fire,  and 
after  one  hour  of  boiling  add  a  liquor-glass  of  French 
brandy.  Let  simmer  then  for  about  five  hours,  in  all  about 
six  hours  ;  then  dish  it,  strain  the  sauce  on  it,  and  serve. 

We  would  advise  those  who  have  never  tasted  of  a  leg 
of  mutton  cooked  as  above,  to  try  it. 

It  may  be  served  also  with  white  beans  cooked  in  wa- 
ter and  fried  in  butter,  or  on  fried  potatoes. 

The  next  day.  —  If  you  have  a  piece  left  for  the  next 
day,  cut  it  in  thin  slices  after  dinner,  place  the  slices  on  a 
dish,  with  parsley  under,  in  the  middle,  and  above,  and 
keep  in  a  cold  place. 

A  while  before  dinner  you  put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece  of 
butter  (the  quantity  to  be  according  to  the  quantity  of 
meat),  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire  ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in, 
gradually,  a  little  flour,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  when 
of  a  proper  thickness,  and  of  a  brownish  color,  add  a  glass 
of  broth,  salt,  pepper,  a  few  pickled  cucumbers  cut  in  slices, 
and  two  or  three  mushrooms  ;  boil  ten  minutes  ;  lay  the 
slices  of  meat  in,  subdue  the  fire,  simmer  twenty  minutes, 
and  serve. 


192  MUTTON. 

The  same,  in  another  way. — Chop  fine  the  slices  of  leg 
of  mutton,  put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  set  it 
on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  place  the  chopped  meat  in,  keep 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  about  ten  minutes ;  then 
add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  salt,  pepper,  and 
a  pinch  of  allspice ;  simmer  fifteen  minutes,  and  serve  with 
fried  eggs  all  around  the  dish. 

Soiled. — Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  cold  water 
enough  to  cover  the  leg  of  mutton,  add  salt ;  at  the  first 
boil  put  the  leg  of  mutton  in,  wrapped  up  in  a  towel. 
Boil  gently  till  done.  For  a  middling-sized  one,  it  takes 
about  two  hours.  Remove  the  towel,  dish  the  leg  of  mut- 
ton, spread  a  caper-sauce  over  it,  and  serve  hot  The 
sauce  may  also  be  served  in  a  boat  or  saucer. 

Cold. — What  is  left  of  it  may  be  prepared  like  cold 
mutton  in  vinaigrette. 

SHOULDER. 

Shoulder  boned. — Split  the  shoulder  just  in  the  middle, 
on  the  inside,  lengthwise  and  following  the  middle  of  the 
bones ;  remove  the  flat  bone  at  the  larger  end  first.  This 
is  easily  done  by  scraping  the  meat  off  the  bone  on  both 
sides,  and  then  pulling  it  off.  Do  the  same  with  the  remain- 
ing bone.  Spread  the  shoulder  open  on  the  table,  the 
inside  up,  salt  and  pepper  it,  then  spread  on  it  the  same 
stuffing  as  for  a  chicken  stuffed  with  sausage-meat.  Boll 
the  shoulder  round,  tie  it  with  twine,  and  roast  or  bake  it. 
When  roasted  or  baked,  serve  with  the  gravy. 

On  a  Puree. — Bone  and  roll  the  shoulder  as  above 
directed,  but  do  not  stuff  it ;  roast  or  bake  it,  and  serve  it 
on  a  puree  of  potatoes,  beans,  peas,  lentils,  or  any  other 
vegetable  ;  place  the  shoulder  in  the  middle  of  a  dish,  cut 
it  in  slices,  and  place  them  all  around  the  purte,  one  lap- 


MUTTON. 


193 


oing  over  the  other ;  turn  the  gravy  over  the  whole  through 
a  strainer,  and  serve  hot. 

With  a  Sauce. — When  baked  or  roasted  as  above, 
with  or  without  stuffing,  serve  it  with  a  piquante,  ravigote, 
or  Robert  sauce. 

Boiled. — Boil,  and  serve  it  with  a  caper-sauce,  the 
same  as  the  leg. 

SADDLE. 

Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  the  saddle  in  the  same  way 
as  the  leg — roasted  or  baked,  warm  or  cold. 

COLD  MUTTON. 

Served  cold,  a  la  Vinaigrette. — A  shoulder  of  mutton, 
roasted  or  baked,  after  being  boned,  makes  a  handsome 
dish  served  cold.  Cut  any  piece  of  cold  mutton  that  you 
may  have,  in  thin  slices,  as  evenly  as  possible.  Place  a  paste- 
cutter,  about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  an  oval  dish ;  then  place  the  slices  of  meat  all  around 
the  dish,  one  slice  lapping  over  another;  the  dish  being 
oval,  the  slices  of  meat  will  touch  the  paste-cutter  on  two 
sides,  but  there  will  be  two  empty  places  on  the  two 
other  sides,  which  you  fill  with  hard-boiled  white  of  egg 
chopped  fine,  and  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg  chopped  fine 
also ;  they  must  not  be  mixed,  and  the  yolk  must  be 
farther  from  the  paste-cutter,  the  white  touching  it.  Put 
a  string  of  chopped  yolk  of  egg  all  around  the  meat,  and 
outside  of  it  one  of  chopped  white  of  egg  around  the  yolk, 
and  one  of  chopped  parsley  around  the  white.  Remove 
the  paste-cutter,  and  put  a  rose,  or  two  or  three  pinks,  in 
its  place,  or  a  small  bunch  of  violets.  Place  one  or  three 
capers  on  each  small  heap  of  yolk  of  egg  that  is  on  the 
middle  of  the  dish,  and  also  some  capers  here  and  thero 
on  the  string  of  white  of  egg. 
9 


194: 


MUTTOff. 


Place  a  rose  at  each 
end  of  the  dish,  as 
indicated  in  the  cut 
opposite;  six  radishes 
around  the  dish,  also 
as  indicated  in  the  cut, 
and  you  have  a  dish  as 
sightly  as  can  be  made, 
and  an  excellent  one, 
too.  Serve  with  the 
following  sauce  in  a 
boat  or  saucer:  Put 
in  a  bowl  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mustard,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt ; 
then  pour  one  or  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  vin- 
egar on,  little  by  little, 
beating  with  a  fork  at 
the  same  time ;  again, 
three  or  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  and  in 
the  same  way;  and 
when  the  whole  is  well 
mixed,  serve. 

SHEEP'S  BRAIN. 
Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  as  calf  s  brain. 

FEET. 

Broiled. — Throw  them  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes, 
clean  and  scrape  off  the  hair  and  take  out  the  large  bone. 
Put  in  a  saucepan  a  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  a  tablespoonful 


MUTTON.  195 

of  vinegar,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two 
green  onions,  salt,  pepper,  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
two  walnuts,  half  a  pint  of  broth,  then  a  dozen  feet  on 
the  whole ;  set  on  a  s.ow  fire,  simmer  one  hour,  stir  now 
and  then,  take  from  the  fire  and  let  cool  Then  dip  each 
foot  in  beaten  egg,  and  roll  it  in  bread-crumbs ;  place  them 
on  a  gridiron  ;  turn  over  to  broil  both  sides  properly,  and 
serve  them  with  the  sauce  in  which  they  have  been 
cooked,  after  having  strained  it.  They  may  also  be  served 
on  a  piquante,  poivrade,  ravigote,  or  Robert  sauce. 

In  Poulctte. — Prepare  and  clean  them  as  directed 
above.  Put  in  a  saucepan  four  ounces  of  salt  pork  cut  in 
dice,  two  ounces  of  lard,  salt,  and  white  pepper;  when 
warm,  add  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  a  bay- 
leaf,  one  clove,  four  onions,  and  one  carrot,  cut  in  slices, 
a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  also  cut  in  slices,  free  from  rind  and 
seed,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour ;  this  last  must  be  added 
by  sprinkling  it  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while  with  a 
wooden  spoon ;  five  minutes  after,  place  the  feet  in,  cover 
the  whole  with  warm  water,  and  let  simmer  gently  for 
five  or  six  hours.  After  that  time  see  if  the  meat  can  be 
easily  detached  from  the  bones,  and  if  so,  they  are  cooked ; 
if  not,  leave  them  a  little  longer,  and  take  from  the  fire 
as  soon  as  it  is  easily  detached,  but  do  not  detach  it. 
Put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  wal- 
nuts ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
stir  with  a  wooden  spoon,  then  put  the  feet  in,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  green  onions,  a  little 
piece  of  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  and  two  or  three  mush- 
rooms cut  in  slices  or  pieces ;  wet  with  broth ;  simmer 
half  an  hour,  take  from  the  fire,  and  throw  away  the 
piece  of  nutmeg;  mix  with  the  whole  two  yolks  of  eggs 
well  beaten  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  serve. 


L96  MUTTON. 

SHEEP'S  KIDNEYS,  BROILED. 

Split  them  in  two,  and  put  them  in  cold  water  for  five 
minutes ;  trim  off  the  pellicle  or  thin  skin,  run  a  skewer 
through,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  on,  place  them  on  the 
gridiron,  and  set  on  a  good  fire ;  turn  over,  and  when 
broiled,  serve  them  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  chopped 
parsley  kneaded  together,  and  placed  on  each  kidney ;  add 
also  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice. 

You  may  also,  when  broiled,  serve  them  on  a  maitre 
d*  hotel  sauce. 

The  same,  in  Brochette. — Proceed  as  above  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  place  the  kidneys  on  the  spit 
instead  of  on  the  gridiron.  Serve  them  in  the  same  way. 

The  same,  with  Champagne. — Cut  the  kidneys  in  slices, 
each  in  ten  or  twelve  pieces.  Put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  two  walnuts,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ; 
when  melted,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  same 
of  mushrooms,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper, 
and  the  kidneys ;  keep  tossing  till  they  become  stiff,  then 
sprinkle  on  them  a  saltspoonful  of  flour,  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon  the  while  ;  add  also  a  wine-glass  of  Cham- 
pagne, or  of  good  white  wine ;  subdue  the  fire,  and  let 
simmer  till  cooked ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  about  one 
ounce  of  fresh  butter,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
serve.  This  is  a  very  delicate  dish. 

SHEEP'S  TAILS. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  slices, 
with  a  bay-leaf,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  one 
clove,  six  small  onions,  one  carrot  cut  in  four  pieces,  then 
about  six  tails ;  cover  the  whole  with  broth  and  white 
wine,  half  of  each ;  add  salt  and  pepper.  Place  the  pan 
in  a  moderately  heated  oven  ;  it  will  take  about  four  hours 


MUTTON.  197 

to  cook  them.  After  that  time,  take  the  tails  from  the 
pan,  and  put  them  in  a  warm  place,  then  strain  the  sauce 
in  which  they  have  cooked,  skim  off  the  fat  if  too  much 
of  it,  put  the  sauce  back  in  the  pan,  and  set  on  the  fire ; 
let  it  reduce  till  rather  thick,  place  the  tails  on  a  puree, 
turn  the  sauce  on  them,  and  serve. 


SHEEP'S  TONGUES. 

Soak  the  tongues  in  cold  water  for  two  hours  in  winter, 
and  one  in  summer,  and  drain.  Throw  them  in  boiling 
water,  and  leave  till  you  can  easily  take  the  skin  off;  then 
skin  and  clean  well,  split  in  two  lengthwise,  and  let  cool. 
Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  thin  slices,  a 
bay-leaf,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  four  of  parsley,  two  cloves, 
three  green  onions  and  six  small  red  or  white  ones,  one 
carrot  cut  in  four  pieces,  salt  and  pepper,  then  the  tongues ; 
add  also  half  a  pint  of  broth,  same  of  water,  same  of 
white  wine ;  set  in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  and  sim- 
mer about  four  hours ;  have  the  stewpan  covered  as  nearly 
air-tight  as  possible.  Then  take  the  tongues  from  the 
pan  and  drain  them  ;  knead  well  together  two  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley, 
a  little  salt  and  allspice ;  spread  some  on  each  of  the 
tongues  as  soon  as  they  are  cold ;  envelop  each  in  oiled 
paper,  broil  them  gently  on  a  slow  fire,  and  serve  with  the 
paper. 

You  may  also  when  prepared  and  cooked  as  above 
directed,  and  instead  of  broiling  them,  place  a  puree  on  a 
dish,  and  serve  them  on  a  puree,  pouring  on  the  whole 
the  sauce  in  which  they  have  cooked,  and  straining  it  at 
the  same  time. 

They  are  really  more  delicate  when  broiled. 


198  MUTTON. 

LAMB. 

To  select. — The  flesh  must  be  like  that  of  mutton, 
rather  black,  and  the  fat  white. 

There  is  no  difference  in  the  wether  and  ewe.  The 
shorter  the  quarters  are  the  better  the  meat,  and  the  fore 
as  well  as  the  hind  quarter.  With  the  exception  that  the 
breast-piece  is  prepared  also  in  epigramme^  and  that  it  is 
cut  in  quarters  instead  of  dividing  it  like  mutton,  lamb 
may  be  prepared  in  the  same  and  every  way  like  mutton. 
The  quarters  may  be  prepared  like  shoulder,  leg,  and  sad- 
dle of  mutton. 

Chops  may  be  cut  and  prepared  the  same  as  mutton- 
chops. 

Fore-  Quarter.— According  to  the  opinion  of  a  great 
many  epicures,  the  fore-quarter  is  the  best  part  of  the 
lamb ;  but,  as  we  have  previously  said,  every  one  to  his 
liking. 

Lard  it  slightly,  and  envelop  it  with  buttered  paper, 
place  it  upon  the  spit  before  a  good  fire ;  when  done  take 
from  the  fire,  and  take  the  paper  off,  sprinkle  on  it  salt, 
pepper,  and  chopped  parsley  ;  put  back  on  the  spit  before 
a  sharp  fire,  just  long  enough  to  allow  it  to  take  a  fine 
color;  then  take  off,  run  a  knife  under  the  shoulder  to 
make  a  small  hole,  pour  maitre  <Th6tel  sauce  in  it,  and 
serve  either  as  it  is,  with  its  gravy,  or  on  a  puree  of 
sorrel. 

To  lake  it. — Put  it  in  a  baking-pan,  spread  a  little 
salt,  pepper,  and  butter  over  it ;  cover  it  with  a  piece  of 
buttered  paper ;  have  the  bottom  of  the  pan  covered  with 
cold  water  and  put  in  a  warm  oven,  baste  often  till  done. 
If  the  paper  burns,  put  on  another  piece.  Run  a  small 
knife  or  a  skewer  into  the  meat,  to  ascertain  when  proper 
ly  done. 


MUTTON.  199 

It  may  be  served  with  the  gravy  only,  after  having  re- 
moved the  fat,  or  with  a  piquante,  poivrade,  or  maitre 
tF  hotel  sauce. 

It  is  also  served  with  a  garniture  of  mushrooms  or 
onions,  or  with  a  maccdoine,  or  on  a  puree  of  spinach,  or 
of  sorrel 

Hind-Quarter. — Throw  it  in  boiling  water  for  five 
minutes,  and  drain.  Put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  an  egg,  and  set  on  the  fire;  when  melted,  mix 
in  it  a  tablespoonf ul  of  flour ;  after  which,  pour  in,  little 
by  little,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  boiling  water,  stirring  with 
a  wooden  spoon  all  the  time ;  then  put  the  meat  in  the 
pan,  add  four  onions,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  three  sprigs 
of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  salt,  and  pepper ;  about  fifteen 
minutes  before  it  is  done,  add  two  or  three  mushrooms 
cut  in  slices,  take  from  the  fire  when  cooked,  place  the 
meat  on  a  dish  with  the  mushrooms  and  onions  around, 
or  if  preferred,  without  either ;  strain  the  sauce  on  the 
meat,  and  serve. 

If  the  sauce  is  not  thick  enough,  mix  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  in  it  just  before  serving. 

Roasted. — Roast  and  serve  the  hind-quarter  in  the  same 
way  as  directed  for  the  fore-quarter. 

Baked. — Bake  and  serve  it  also  in  the  same  and  every 
way  like  the  fore-quarter. 

Epigramme. — Put  a  breast  of  lamb  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  it  with  cold  water,  season  with  a  small  onion  and 
one  clove  stuck  in  it,  two  stalks  of  parsley,  a  piece  of 
carrot,  one  of  turnip,  and  salt.  Boil  gently  till  you  can 
?ull  off  the  bones  easily.  It  may  also  be  boiled  in  the 
soup-kettle  while  making  broth.  When  the  bones  come 
off  easily,  take  from  the  fire,  pull  out  all  the  small  bones 
and  cut  out  the  large  one.  Place  the  breast  in  a  large 


200  MUTTON. 

bakepan,  with  some  weight  over  so  as  to  flatten  it,  and 
leave  it  so  till  perfectly  cold.  Then  cut  it  in  pieces  of 
rhombic  shape  about  four  inches  Ion 2  and  two  inches 

JT  O 

broad ;  salt  and  pepper  each  piece  on  both  sides ;  dip 
them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs  and  fry  them 
with  a  little  butter,  and  serve  on  a  tomato,  piquante,  ravi- 
yote,  or  soubise  sauce,  or  on  any  puree. 

When  the  sauce  is  spread  on  the  dish,  place  the  piecea 
of  lamb  all  around  it,  one  lapping  over  the  other,  and 
forming  a  kind  of  oblong  string,  and  serve  warm. 

Another. — When  the  epigramme  is  prepared  as  above 
and  ready  to  be  served,  have  as  many  mutton-chops  as 
you  have  pieces  of  meat  from  the  breast;  dish  in  the 
same  way,  except  that  you  put  one  piece  of  the  breast  and 
then  a  mutton-chop  fried  in  the  same  way  as  the  pieces 
of  meat ;  the  chops  lapping  over  the  pieces  of  breast,  and 
vice  versa. 

Broiled. — The  same  may  be  broiled  instead  of  fried, 
and  served  in  the  same  way. 

Roasted  entire. — Skewer  a  lamb  properly  on  the  spit, 
envelop  it  with  buttered  paper,  place  before  a  good  fire, 
baste  often  with  melted  butter  first,  and  then  with  the 
drippings ;  when  nearly  done  take  the  paper  off,  let  the 
lamb  take  a  fine  color  around,  and  serve  it  with  the  gravy. 
It  may  be  served  with  a  garniture  around  and  decorated 
with  skewers,  the  same  as  directed  for  fillet  of  beef;  it 
then  makes  a  sightly  as  well  as  a  delicious  dish. 

Served  with  a  garniture  and  decorated  as  directed  for 
a  fillet  of  beef,  it  is  served  as  a  releve  at  a  grand  dinner, 
and  as  an  entree  at  a  family  dinner. 

Cold. — Cold  lamb  is  served  in  every  way  like  cold 
mutton.  A  part  left  from  a  roasted  piece  may  be  en- 
veloped in  buttered  paper,  put  on  the  spit  just  long 


MUTTON.  201 

enough  to  warm  it,  and  served  just  in  the  same  way  as 
roast  lamb. 

Lamb's  head,  feet,  kidneys,  etc.,  are  prepared  and 
served  like  the  same  parts  of  the  sheep,  and  as  directed 
in  the  different  receipts. 

rax 

Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  kid  the  same  as  lamb. 
9* 


VEAL. 


NEVER  buy  too  young  veal.  It  is  very  easy  to  know 
it ;  when  too  young,  the  bones  are  very  tender ;  they  are 
more  like  nerves  than  bones;  the  meat  is  gluish,  and 
has  little  or  no  taste.  Epicures  say  that  if  a  calf  is 
killed  before  it  is  two  months  old,  or  at  least  six  weeks,  it 
is  not  fit  for  eating.  We  are  of  that  opinion,  although, 
perhaps,  very  few  are  allowed  so  long  a  life.  We  will 
therefore  recommend  our  readers  to  beware  buying  too 
young  veal ;  many  diseases,  especially  in  children,  come 
from  eating  it. 

When  you  broil  or  roast  a  piece  of  veal,  baste  often. 
Yeal  is  better  when  a  little  overdone ;  it  is  not  good,  and 
operates  like  physic,  if  underdone. 

The  best  veal  is  that  of  a  greenish  color  and  very  fat. 
It  is  fresh  when  the  eyes  are  full  and  smooth,  and  when  the 
meat  is  firm.  If  the  meat  is  yellowish  or  contains  yellow- 
ish spots,  it  is  not  fresh.  The  veins  must  be  red. 

To  improve. — Chop  fine  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley,  a 
teaspoonful  of  shallots,  same  of  green  onions,  a  bay-leaf, 
two  sprigs  of  thyme,  two  or  three  mushrooms,  add  to 
them,  salt,  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  cover  the  bot- 
tom of  a  tureen  with  half  of  each,  put  on  it  the  piece  of 
veal  you  wish  to  improve,  cover  with  the  other  half  of  the 
seasonings;  then  pour  gently  on  the  whole  two  table- 


VEAL.  203 

spoonfuls  of  sweet-oil ;  leave  the  veal  thus  about  four  or 
five  hours  in  winter  and  about  two  iu  summer. 

ROASTED. 

The  pieces  of  veal  that  are  roasted  are  the  loin,  leg, 
and  shoulder. 

It  may  be  improved  as  directed  above  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  taste ;  but  we  earnestly  recommend  it  as  not  a  little 
improvement,  but  as  a  marked  one,  as  everybody  can  try 
it  and  judge,  veal  being  naturally  tasteless. 

There  are  three  ways  of  roasting  veal.  We  will  de- 
scribe them,  so  that  it  can  be  done  according  to  taste. 

1.  Spread  a  thin  coat  of  butter  around  the  piece  of 
veal  after  being  salted  all  around,  put  on  the  spit  before 
a  good  but  not  very  sharp  fire ;   near  it,  but  not  too 
much  so :  veal  being  more  tender  than  beef,  it  would  also 
bum  much  quicker.     Baste  often  with  melted  butter  first, 
and  then  with  the  drippings,  and  from  the  beginning  to 
the  end.     When  done,  that  is,  when  overdone,  as  veal 
must  always  be,  serve  with  the  gravy  only,  or  in  the  differ- 
ent ways  described  below. 

2.  Lard  all  the  fleshy  parts  of  the  piece  of  veal  with  a 
larding-needle  and  strips  of  salt  pork,  the  same  as  a  fillet 
of  beef,  but  which  strips  you  roll  in  a  mixture  of  parsley 
chopped,  salt  and  pepper,  before  running  them  into  the 
meat,  and  proceed  as  above  for  the  rest.     Serve  also  like 
the  above. 

3.  After  the  piece  of  veal  is  improved  as   directed, 
spread  the  seasonings  in  which  it  has  been  improved  all 
around  it,  then  envelop  the  whole  in  buttered  paper,  which 
you  fasten  with  twine,  put  it  on  the  spit,  and  baste  often 
with  melted  butter.     It  must  be  basted  often  to  prevent 
the  paper  from  burning.    About  fifteen  minutes  before  it  is 


204  VEAL. 

done,  remove  the  paper,  put  the  meat  a  little  nearer  the 
fire  so  as  to  give  it  a  fine  yellow  or  golden  color,  finish  the 
cooking  till  overdone,  and  serve  also  like  the  first,  or  No.  1. 

No  matter  which  of  these  three  ways  the  piece  of  veal 
is  roasted,  it  is  served  in  the  same  manner. 

With  Asparagus. — When  the  roasted  piece  of  veal  is 
dished,  put  a  puree  of  asparagus  all  around,  and  serve 
warm. 

With  Peas. — Spread  one  pint  or  one  quart  (according 
to  the  size  of  the  piece  of  meat)  of  green  peas  aujus,  on  a 
dish ;  place  the  meat  on  the  peas,  spread  the  gravy  over 
the  whole,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possible. 

With  Quenelles. — Dish  the  roasted  piece,  place  around 
it  six  or  eight  quenelles  of  chicken  or  of  veal,  strain  the 
gravy  on  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Vegetables. — When  roasted  and  dished,  put  any 
kind  of  vegetables,  prepared  aujus,  all  around  the  piece  of 
meat,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Sweetbreads. — Roast  the  piece  of  veal  as  directed, 
and  when  dished,  place  six  sweetbreads,  prepared  au  jus, 
tastefully  around  the  meat ;  strain  the  gravy  over,  and  serve 
very  warm. 

Decorated. — Every  piece  of  roasted  veal  may  be  deco- 
rated with  skewers,  either  served  au  jus  or  in  any  of  the 
above  ways.  The  skewers  are  first  run  through  either  of 
the  following  and  then  stuck  into  the  piece  of  meat :  slices 
of  truffles ;  chicken-combs,  prepared  as  for  garniture ;  slices 
of  sweetbreads  or  whole  ones,  prepared  aujus;  quenelles 
of  chicken  or  of  veal ;  slices  of  carrots,  turnips,  beets,  all 
prepared  au  jus  ;  and  mushrooms.  One,  two,  three,  or 
more  to  every  skewer ;  for  instance :  one  slice  of  truffle, 
then  one  of  turnip,  a  chicken-comb,  then  a  slice  of  sweet- 
bread or  a  whole  one,  and  then  stick  in  the  meat.  From 


VEAL.  205 

two  to  six  skewers  may  be  used.  On  a  large  piece  never 
put  less  than  two,  and  no  matter  how  many  you  use,  al- 
ways have  even  numbers  of  them. 

BAKED. 

All  the  parts  of  veal  that  are  roasted,  that  is,  the  loin, 
leg,  and  shoulder,  can  be  baked.  They  may  be  improved  in 
the  same  way  as  to  roast  them.  Put  the  piece  of  veal  in 
a  bakepan ;  spread  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  on  it ;  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water,  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch  in  depth ;  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  on 
the  meat,  and  put  in  a  warm  oven.  If  the  meat  has  been 
improved,  the  seasonings  are  spread  over  it  before  placing 
the  buttered  paper.  Baste  often  with  the  water  and  juice 
in  the  pan  and  over  the  paper,  which  you  need  not  re- 
move till  about  ten  minutes  before  taking  from  the  oven, 
or  in  case  it  should  burn ;  then  you  must  replace  it  by  an- 
other. It  keeps  the  top  of  the  meat  moist,  and  it  is  more 
juicy  when  done. 

When  properly  baked  (overdone,  as  every  piece  of  veal 
must  be),  serve  either  au  jus,  or  with  the  same  garnitures, 
the  same  decorations,  as  directed  for  roasted  veal. 

The  gravy  in  the  bakepan  is  strained,  the  fat  skimmed 
off,  and  then  it  is  turned  over  the  meat  and  garnitures 
when  dished,  the  same  as  the  drippings  or  gravy  of  roast 
meat.  In  case  the  water  in  the  bakepan,  or  the  juice,  or 
both,  should  boil  away  or  be  absorbed,  put  more  cold  water 
in  it,  so  as  to  be  able  to  baste. 

BLANQUETTE.— (Also  called  Povlette.) 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  neck,  breast,  shoulder,  or 
any  other  piece,  which  cut  in  pieces,  two  inches  square, 
hrow  them  in  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt,  for  five 


206  VEAL. 

minutes,  and  drain  them.  Put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  set  it  on  a  good  fire,  and  when 
melte-d  mix  in  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring  all  the  time, 
and  when  turning  yellow  pour  gently  and  slowly  in  the 
pan  a  pint  of  boiling  water ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
parsley  and  green  onions,  salt,  pepper,  six  small  white  or 
red  onions,  two  or  three  mushrooms,  and  then  the  meat ; 
boil  gently  about  three  hours,  and  serve. 

CROQUETTES. 

Proceed  as  for  chicken  croquettes  in  every  particular, 
except  that  you  use  cold  veal  instead  of  cold  chicken. 

RAGOUT. 

The  neck  and  breast  pieces  are  generally  used  to 
make  a  ragout,  but  any  other  piece  may  be  used.  Take 
about  three  pounds  of  veal,  which  cut  in  pieces  about  two 
inches  square.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  butter  is  melted,  lay 
the  meat  in,  stir  now  and  then  till  of  a  golden  color,  and 
then  take  the  meat  from  the  pan.  Leave  the  pan  on  the 
fire,  and  put  in  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  little  by  little, 
keep  stirring  about  five  minutes ;  add  also  half  a  pint  of 
broth,  same  of  warm  water,  one  onion  with  a  clove  stuck  in 
it,  a  bay  leaf,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  two  of  parsley,  a  clove 
of  garlic,  a  small  carrot  cut  in  two  or  three  pieces,  salt  and 
pepper,  then  the  meat,  and  cover  the  pan.  Half  an  hour 
after  your  meat  is  in,  fry  in  butter  in  a  frying-pan  six 
small  onions,  which  you  also  put  in  the  stewpan  as  soon  as 
fried.  When  the  whole  is  cooked,  place  the  meat  on  a 
dish,  strain  the  sauce  on  it,  surround  the  whole  with  the 
six  small  onions,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Scallops. — Take  a  piece  from  the  loin  or  leoj  of 


VEAL.  207 

veal,  cut  it  in  pieces  about  three  inches  long,  two  inches 
broad,  and  one-third  of  an  inch  thick,  as  evenly  as  possi- 
ble, and  flatten  them  with  a  chopper.  Salt  and  pepper 
them  on  both  sides,  and  fry  them  with  a  little  butter  till 
about  half  done,  on  both  sides  alike.  Add  a  little  broth 
and  chopped  parsley,  and  boil  gently  till  done.  Place  the 
pieces  of  veal  all  around  the  platter,  one  lapping  over  an- 
other, turn  the  sauce  in  the  middle  of  them,  and  serve. 

Another. — Cut  the  veal  in  pieces  as  for  the  above ;  beat 
one  or  two  eggs  in  a  plate  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped 
parsley ;  dip  each  piece  into  it  and  then  roll  in  bread- 
crumbs ;  butter  a  bakepan,  place  the  veal  in  with  a  small 
lump  of  butter  on  each  piece,  and  bake ;  turn  over  to  bake 
evenly.  Serve  as  the  above,  with  a  piquante  or  tomato 
sauce  in  the  middle. 

BREAST,  STEWED. 

Cut  in  dice  two  ounces  of  bacon,  put  it  in  a  stewpan 
and  set  on  a  good  fire ;  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  two 
onions  cut  iu  slices ;  when  melted,  lay  the  breast  in,  turn 
it  over  and  leave  till  of  a  golden  color  on  both  sides ;  add 
then  two  small  carrots  cut  in  pieces,  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  green  onions,  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a  turnip, 
salt,  and  pepper;  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  warm  water; 
leave  thus  about  three  hours  on  a  moderate  fire.  Strain 
the  juice  in  a  dish,  put  the  meat  on  it,  and  serve. 

The  pieces  of  carrots  and  of  bacon  may  be  served  with 
the  meat,  if  you  choose. 

The  same,  with  Green  Peas. — Cut  the  breast  in  square 
pieces  about  two  inches  in  size.  Put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when 
melted,  mix  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  then  lay  the  meat 
in,  and  wet  with  half  a  glass  of  broth,  same  of  warm  wa 


208  VEAL. 

ter,  also  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper ;  stir 
and  then.  One  hour  after  add  green  peas,  and  leave  on 
the  fire  till  the  whole  is  cooked,  when  skim  off  the  fat  on 
the  surface,  and  serve. 

In  Matelote. — To  make  a  matelote  of  veal  any  piece 
can  be  used,  but  most  generally  it  is  made  with  a  breast  or 
neck  piece.  Cut  the  veal  in  square  pieces  about  two  inches 
in  size ;  have  in  a  stewpan  and  on  a  good  fire  a  piece  of 
butter  about  the  size  of  an  egg ;  when  melted,  put  the 
meat  in,  stir  now  and  then  till  of  a  golden  color ;  then 
take  the  meat  from  the  stewpan,  which  you  leave  on  the 
fire,  and  in  which  you  put  half  a  pint  of  warm  water,  same 
of  claret  wine,  same  of  broth,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  salt,  and 
pepper;  when  turning  brown,  put  the  meat  back  in  the 
pan,  and  fifteen  minutes  before  it  is  cooked  add  also  ten 
small  onions  fried  in  butter  beforehand  and  four  or  five 
mushrooms,  then  have  a  brisk  fire  to  finish  the  cooking; 
place  the  meat  on  a  dish,  strain  the  sauce  on  the  meat, 
put  the  ten  small  onions  around  it,  and  serve. 

Broiled. — Salt  and  pepper  both  sides  of  the  breast  of 
veal,  grease  it  all  over  with  melted  butter,  by  means  of  a 
brush,  and  broil  till  overdone.  Serve  with  a  maitre  d'hdtel, 
piquante,  or  poivrade  sauce. 

CUTLETS. 

Broiled. — When  properly  trimmed,  they  may  be  im- 
proved as  directed  for  veal.  Salt  and  pepper  both  sides ; 
spread  a  little  melted  butter  on  both  sides  also  by  means 
of  a  brush ;  place  them  on,  before,  or  under  the  fire  (see 
BROILING)  ;  baste  now  and  then  with  melted  butter;  turn 
over  one,  two,  or  three  times,  and  when  rather  overdone 
serve  with  a  maitre  cTMtel  sauce  spread  all  over. 


VEAL.  209 

The  above  way  of  serving  them  is  sometimes  called 
au  naturel. 

With  Crumbs. — "When  trimmed,  dip  them  in  egg 
beaten  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley,  roll  them 
in  bread-crumbs,  and  then  broil  and  serve  them  as  the 
ab?ve,  with  a  maitre  tfhdtel. 

Fines  Herbes. — Broil  the  chops  as  above,  either  with 
or  without  crumbs,  and  serve  them  with  sauce  aux  fines 
heroes. 

A  ritalienne. —  When  broiled  as  above,  serve  them 
on  a  layer  of  macaroni  Italienne. 

With  Mushrooms. — When  broiled  and  dished,  sur- 
round them  with  a  garniture  of  mushrooms,  and  serve 
warm.  When  there  are  several  cutlets  on  the  dish,  and 
placed  all  around  overlapping,  the  garniture  may  be  put 
in  the  middle  of  the  chops. 

Do  the  same  with  the  following  garnitures :  chicken- 
combs,  croutons,  duxelle,  financier  e,  Macedoine,  and  onion. 
They  may  also  be  served  on  any  puree. 

Baked. — Trim  six  cutlets.  Mix  well  half  a  pound  of 
sausage-meat  with  two  eggs.  Put  a  piece  of  buttered 
paper  large  enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of  a  bakepan  in 
which  the  six  cutlets  may  be  laid  easily.  Spread  half  the 
sausage-meat  on  the  paper  in  the  pan,  then  lay  the  cutlets 
in  it;  put  the  other  half  of  the  sausage-meat  over  the 
cutlets,  and  place  the  whole  in  a  rather  quick  oven.  Baste 
every  five  minutes  with  melted  butter  and  broth,  using 
them  alternately,  and  serve  warm  with  the  gravy  when 
done.  A  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  may  be  added  to  them 
when  on  the  dish,  if  liked. 

Sautees. — Trim,  and  fry  them  with  a  little  butter. 
When  done  on  both  sides,  add  a  little  broth,  salt,  pepper, 
and  mushrooms  and  parsley  chopped  fine  ;  chopped  truffles 


210  VEAL. 

may  be  added,  if  handy ;  boil  gently  for  about  ten  min- 
utes. Place  the  cutlets  around  the  dish,  one  lapping  over 
the  other,  turn  the  sauce  in  the  middle,  sprinkle  some 
lemon-juice  over  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Sauce. — When  broiled,  baked,  or  sauted,  they 
may  be  dished  and  served  with  either  of  the  following 
muces:  fines  herbes,  maitre  d*  hotel,  piquante,  poivrade, 
ravigote,  tarragon,  tomato,  or  truffle. 

En  Bellevue. — Proceed  the  same  as  for  fillet  of  beef  en 
Bellevue. 

In  Papillotes. — Trim  six  veal-chops,  spread  salt  and 
pepper  on  them,  and  fry  them  with  a  little  butter  till  about 
half  done.  Take  from  the  fire,  and  cut  a  small  hole  in 
the  middle  with  a  paste-cutter.  While  they  are  frying, 
fry  with  a  little  butter  one  onion  chopped  fine ;  as  soon 
as  fried,  add  half  a  pound  of  sausage-meat ;  stir  now  and 
then  for  about  five  minutes ;  add  also  a  pinch  of  cinna- 
mon, same  of  nutmeg ;  take  off  and  mix  with  the  whole 
one  yolk  of  egg,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt, 
and  pepper.  Cut  six  pieces  of  white  paper  of  a  heart-like 
shape,  and  large  enough  to  envelop  a  chop;  grease  them 
slightly  with  butter  or  sweet-oil ;  place  some  sausage-meat 
on  one  side  of  the  paper  (say  half  a  tablespoonful),  place 
a  chop  on  it ;  put  some  sausage-meat  on  the  chop  and  in 
the  hole ;  fold  the  paper  in  two ;  then,  by  folding  all  around 
the  border,  the  chop  and  seasonings  are  perfectly  enveloped 
!n  the  paper ;  put  the  chops  in  a  baking-pan,  spread  a  few 
drops  of  oil  all  over,  and  bake  for  about  fifteen  minutes  in 
an  oven  at  about  250  deg.  Fahr.  Instead  of  baking  them, 
broil  them  carefully  turning  them  over  often  and  basting 
them  to  prevent  the  paper  from  burning,  and  serve  with 
the  paper  on.  They  may  be  served  on  a  duxelle  garni 
ture,  or  with  a  puree. 


VEAL.  211 

Fricandeau. — Take  a  piece  of  veal  of  any  size,  from 
the  leg,  loin,  or  cutlet  piece,  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  lard  one  side  with  salt  pork,  the  same  aa 
a  fillet  of  beef.  Put  in  a  saucepan  (for  two  pounds  of 
meat)  one  ounce  of  butter,  half  a  middling-sized  onion,  and 
as  much  carrot  in  slices,  two  or  three  stalks  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  six  or  eight  pepper-corns,  and 
rind  of  the  pork  you  have  used  ;  spread  all  these  season- 
ings on  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan,  put  the  piece  of  veal 
on  them,  the  larded  side  up,  set  on  a  good  fire  for  about 
fifteen  minutes ;  after  which  you  look  if  the  under  side  of 
the  meat  is  well  browned ;  if  so,  add  a  gill  of  broth,  put 
in  the  oven  and  baste  often,  if  not,  leave  a  little  longer  on 
the  fire.  Add  a  little  broth  once  in  a  while,  to  keep  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  wet,  and  to  have  enough  to  baste  till  a 
little  overdone,  and  serve  with  the  gravy  strained  all  over 
it.  It  is  then  called  au  jus. 

With  Spinach. — Prepare  and  cook  the  fricandeau  as 
above ;  and  when  done,  put  some  broth  in  the  pan  after 
having  taken  off  the  meat ;  give  one  boil ;  turn  in  the  spin- 
ach au  jus  ;  stir  on  the  fire  one  minute ;  dish  the  spinach  ; 
place  the  fricandeau  on  it,  and  serve. 

With  Sorrel. — Proceed  as  with  spinach  in  every  par- 
ticular, except  that  you  serve  on  sorrel  au  jus  instead  of 
spinach.  It  makes  a  more  delicate  dish  with  sorrel,  al« 
though  excellent  with  spinach. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  green  peas  au  jus  or  a 
Vanglaise. 

Financiere. — When  prepared,  cooked,  and  dished  aa 
directed,  surround  it  with  a  financiere  garniture,  and  serve 
warm. 

Jardiniere. — After  being  cooked  and  dished,  put  a 
Afactdoine  garniture  around  it,  and  serve  warm. 


212  VEAL. 

SHOULDER. 

Boned. — Lay  the  shoulder  on  the  table,  the  inside  up, 
split  it  just  in  the  middle,  lengthwise,  and  following  the 
middle  of  the  bones ;  remove  the  flat  bone  at  the  larger  end 
first  Do  the  same  for  the  remaining  bone.  Then  spread 
the  shoulder  open,  and  salt  and  pepper  it.  Fill  the  inside 
with  sausage-meat;  roll  it  of  a  round  sbape,  and  when 
properly  tied  with  twine,  roast  or  bake  it,  as  directed  for 
roasted  or  baked  veal.  It  is  then  dished,  decorated,  and 
served  in  the  same  and  every  way  as  directed  for  roasted 
pieces  of  veal. 

It  is  an  excellent  dish  served  on  either  of  the  follow- 
ing purees:  leans,  celery,  lentils,  peas,  potatoes,  sorrel, 
spinach,  or  tomatoes. 

When  served  on  a  puree,  it  may  be  decorated  with 
skewers,  the  same  as  when  served  with  a  garniture. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  a  piquante  or  poivrade 
sauce. 

Stuffed. — Bone  the  shoulder  as  directed  above ;  spread 
it  open,  and  salt  and  pepper  it,  also  as  directed.  Spread 
a  coat  of  sausage-meat  on  it,  about  one-third  of  an  inch  in 
thickness,  then  put  a  layer  of  salt  pork  on  the  sausage- 
meat  ;  then  a  layer  of  boiled  ham ;  again  a  layer  of  sau- 
sage-meat ;  on  this  a  layer  of  beef  or  sheep's  tongue,  boiled. 
The  ham  and  tongue  are  cut  in  square  fillets,  about  one- 
fourth  of  an  inch  broad  and  about  two  inches  long.  The 
tongues  may  be  fresh  or  salted,  according  to  taste.  When 
filled,  roll  it  so  as  to  give  it  a  round  shape ;  wrap  it  up  in 
a  towel  and  drop  it  in  boiling  water,  to  which  you  have 
added  salt.  Boil  gently  for  about  four  hours,  take  the 
kettle  from  the  fire  and  let  cool.  When  cold  take  the 
shoulder  off,  wipe  it  dry  and  serve  with  meat  jelly.  The 
jelly  is  chopped,  or  cut  in  fancy  shapes,  or  both.  Some 


VEAL.  213 

chopped  jelly  may  be  placed  all  around  the  meat,  and 
some  cut  in  fancy  shapes  with  a  paste- cutter  or  with  a 
knife,  and  placed  over  it. 

It  may  also  be  decorated  with  skewers,  as  directed  for 
r  >asted  pieces  of  veaL 

En  Bellevue. — When  boiled  and  cold,  prepare  it  like 
a  fillet  of  beef  en  Bdlevue,  and  serve. 

LOIN  OR  LEG  STEWED. 

Have  in  a  stewpan  and  on  a  slow  fire  three  or  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  sweet-oil ;  when  hot  put  the  loin  in,  turn 
it  over  till  of  a  yellow  color  all  around,  then  add  a  bay- 
leaf,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pint  of  warm  water ;  simmer  four 
hours,  and  serve  with  the  following  sauce,  which  you  must 
have  prepared  at  the  same  time :  Fry  in  butter  till  of  a 
golden  color  ten  middling-sized  onions,  then  add  to  them 
half  a  glass  of  claret  wine,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  and 
two  of  the  juice  of  the  loin,  ten  mushrooms  (if  handy) ; 
simmer  till  cooked,  and  strain.  Mix  the  sauce  with 
the  juice  of  the  loin,  and  put  it  on  a  dish,  place  the  loin 
upon  it,  and  serve  with  the  onions  and  mushrooms  around 
the  meat. 

In  case  the  juice  of  the  loin  should  be  found  too  fat, 
throw  in  it  (and  before  mixing  it  with  the  sauce)  a  few 
drops  of  cold  water,  and  skim  off  the  fat 

The  only  thing  to  throw  away  before  mixing  is  the 
bay-leaf. 

Another  way,  or  prepared  with  a  Garniture  of  Cabbages. 
— Put  in  a  stewpan  and  set  on  a  good  fire  a  piece  of  but- 
ter the  size  of  an  egg ;  when  melted,  add  four  onions  and 
two  small  carrots,  cut  in  slices ;  fry  them  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  put  the  loin  in,  with  half  a  bay-leaf,  wet 
with  warm  broth ;  then  subdue  the  fire,  let  simmer  about 


214  VEAL. 

two  hours  and  a  half;  strain  the  sauce  on  a  dish,  place  the 
meat  on  it,  and  serve  with  a  garniture  of  cabbages  around. 

COLD  VEAL. 

Cut  the  meat  in  slices  and  serve  them  on  a  dish,  ar- 
ranged according  to  fancy,  and  serve  with  a  piquante, 
poivrade,  Mayonnaise,  Provenpale,  ravigote,  or  remolade 
sauce.  It  may  also  be  decorated  and  served  like  cold 
mutton,  in  vinaigrette. 

Another  way. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg 
in  a  stewpan  and  set  on  a  good  fire,  mix  in  when  melted 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  till  of  a  brownish  color,  when 
add  a  saltspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  four  leaves  of  tarra- 
gon, salt,  pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth  (more  or  less  of 
the  above  according  to  the  quantity  of  meat  you  have  left), 
boil  the  whole  fifteen  minutes ;  then,  if  what  you  have  left 
is  from  an  entire  piece,  cut  it  in  slices,  lay  them  in  the 
pan,  and  serve  when  warm  enough,  as  it  is. 

If  what  you  have  left  is  in  pieces  or  slices,  you  merely 
place  them  in  the  pan  and  serve  with  the  sauce  when 
warm. 

BRAIN. 

To  prepare. — Put  the  brain  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  and  leave  it  in  from  one  to 
two  or  three  hours,  that  is,  till  you  are  ready  to  use  it,  but 
do  not  leave  it  more  than  five  or  six  hours  and  not  less 
than  one  hour.  Take  it  off,  remove  the  thin  skin  and 
blood-vessels  that  are  all  around. 

To  boil. — When  prepared,  put  the  brain  in  a  small 
saucepan,  cover  it  with  cold  water ;  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  vinegar,  half  an  onion  sliced,  three  stalks  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  six  pepper-corns,  one  clove,  salt, 


VEAL.  215 

ooil  about  five  minutes  and  take  off  the  fire.  Cut  each 
half  of  the  brain  in  two,  from  side  to  side ;  place  the  four 
pieces  on  a  dish,  the  part  cut  upward. 

Au  Beurre  Noir. — When  dished  as  above  directed,  put 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  when  melted  turn 
into  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  boil  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  throw  into  it  half  a  dozen  stalks  of  parsley, 
take  them  off  immediately  with  a  skimmer,  turn  the  butter 
and  vinegar  over  the  brain ;  spread  the  par&ley  around,  and 
serve. 

S 'tewed ,  or  in  Matelote. — When  prepared  as  directed, 
put  it  in  a  small  saucepan  and  cover  it  with  claret  wine ; 
add  half  an  onion  sliced,  one  clove  of  garlic,  one  clove,  two 
sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  salt,  a  bay-leaf,  six  pepper- 
corns, and  boil  gently  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Cut 
and  dish  it  as  directed  above;  turn  the  sauce  over  it 
through  a  strainer  and  serve — it  is  understood,  the  sauce 
in  which  it  has  been  cooked. 

Fried. — Prepare  as  directed,  cut  in  about  six  slices, 
dip  them  in  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  (See  direction  for 
FRYING.) 

In  Poulette. — Prepare  and  boil  it  as  directed,  split 
each  half  of  the  brain  in  two  or  four  pieces,  place  them 
tastefully  on  a  dish,  spread  a  poulette  sauce  all  over,  and 
serve  warm.  It  may  also  be  prepared  and  served  with  a 
piquante  sauce.  When  the  piquante  sauce  is  made,  put 
the  brain  or  brains  in,  boil  ten  minutes,  and  serve  as  it  is. 

EARS. 
They  are  prepared  in  every  way  like  calf  s  head. 

FEET. 

To  boil. — Throw  them  in  boiling  water  for  five  min- 
utes,  split  them  in  the  middle  and  lengthwise  after  having 


216  VEAL. 

taken  off  the  large  bone  and  hair,  and  tie  them  with  a 
string.  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  walnuts  in  a 
stewpan  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  when  melted  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley  and  green  onions,  half  of  each,  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon  cut  in  slices,  salt,  and  pepper,  then  the 
feet ;  wet  with  a  glass  of  warm  water ;  boil  gently  two  or 
three  hours,  take  from  the  fire  and  when  nearly  cold  dip 
them  in  bread-crumbs,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  and  set 
on  a  good  fire,  baste  slightly  with  the  juice  in  which  they 
have  cooked,  and  serve  with  fried  parsley  around. 

The  same,  in  Poulette. — Prepare  and  cook  them  as 
above.  When  you  take  them  from  the  fire,  instead  of 
dipping  them  in  bread-crumbs,  put  them  in  a  poulette 
sauce,  simmer  ten  minutes,  and  serve. 

Fried. — When  boiled  and  drained  dry,  dip  them  in 
beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in  hot  fat,  and  serve 
with  green  parsley  all  around. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Boil  them  as  directed  and  drain  them 
dry.  When  perfectly  cold,  serve  them  with  a  vinaigrette. 

CALF'S  HEAD. 

How  to  prepare. — When  the  hair  is  off  and  the  whole 
head  well  cleaned  (this  is  generally  done  by  butchers ; 
but  if  not,  throw  the  head  in  boiling  water  for  five  min- 
utes and  scrape  the  hair  off  with  a  knife  immediately  after 
taking  it  from  the  water),  put  it  then  in  cold  water  for 
twenty-four  hours  in  winter  and  ten  in  summer,  changing 
the  water  two  or  three  times. 

To  boil. — It  may  be  boiled  whole  or  after  it  is  boned. 
If  boiled  whole,  cut  a  hole  on  the  top  of  the  head  and 
take  off  the  brain  without  breaking  it ;  put  it  in  cold 
water  immediately  and  as  directed.  Then  set  the  head  011 
the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  covered  with  cold  water,  salt,  one 


VEAL.  217 

onion  sliced,  half  a  lemon,  four  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  ten 
pepper-corns,  and  two  tablcspoonfuls  of  vinegar;  boil 
gently  till  done.  Bone  it  before  using  it. 

When  boiled  after  being  boned,  the  brain  is  taken  off 
in  the  same  way  as  above  and  put  in  cold  water  also ;  then 
the  tongue  is  cut  out  and  boiled  with  the  skin  of  the 
head,  etc.,  with  the  same  seasonings  as  when  boiled  whole. 
It  is  then  ready  for  use,  but  leave  it  in  the  water  till 
wanted ;  it  would  become  tough  if  exposed  to  the  air. 

In  Poulette. — Put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  when  meltod  turn  in  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour ;  stir,  and  as  soon  as  it  commences  to 
turn  yellow  add  half  a  pint  of  broth,  stir  again,  and  when 
thickening,  add  the  calf's  head  cut  in  rather  large  dice, 
give  one  boil,  take  from  the  fire,  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
and  about  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  stir,  give 
another  boil,  and  serve. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Leave  it  in  the  water  till  perfectly 
cold ;  or,  if  wanted  immediately,  as  soon  as  boiled,  take 
it  off  and  put  in  cold  water  to  cool,  and  use.  Cut  the 
head  in  large  dice  and  serve  it  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt,  pep- 
per, mustard,  and  parsley  chopped. 

Broiled. — Prepare  and  boil  the  calf  s  head  as  directed. 
As  soon  as  cool,  cut  it  in  about  half  a  dozen  pieces,  dip 
them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  broil 
both  sides  till  turning  of  a  golden  color;  serve  warm 
with  a  maitre  cFhdtel  sauce,  or  with  anchovy  or  horse- 
radish butter. 

Fried. — Calf  s  head  may  be  fried  as  soon  as  prepared 

and  boiled  ;  but  most  generally,  it  is  only  what  has  been 

levt  from  the  day  before  that  is  fried.     Cut  it  in  small 

pieces  about  two  inches  square,  dip  them  in  melted  butter, 

10 


218  VEAL. 

roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  Serve 
hot,  adding  lemon-juice  when  the  pieces  of  calf  s  head  are 
on  the  dish. 

En  Tortue,  or  Tur tie-like. — There  are  two  ways  of 
preparing  calf  s  head  en  tortue : 

1.  When  it  is  prepared  and  boiled  as  directed  above, 
drain  it  dry,  cut  it  in  pieces  as  for  frying  it ;  put  them  in 
a  saucepan  with  once  ounce  of  butter,  set  on  the  fire,  stir 
for  two  minutes,  add  nearly  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  sim- 
mer gently  for  about  half  an  hour ;  dish  the  meat,  add  a 
little  lemon-juice  all  over,  and  serve  warm.     Some  que- 
nelles of  chicken  may  be  placed  all  around,  as  a  decoration ; 
or  a  garniture  of  mushrooms. 

2.  Prepare  and  boil  the  calf  s  head  ;  drain  it  dry  and 
cut  it  in  pieces  about  two  inches  square.     Dish  the  pieces 
either  mound-like,  or  around  the  dish,  one  lapping  over 
the  other,  and  turn  the  following  over  it,  and  serve  warm  : 
Put  a  financiere  garniture  in  a  saucepan  with  a  pint  of 
Madeira  wine,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  gently  for  about 
twenty  minutes;   take    from    the   fire,  spread  over  the 
pieces  of  calf's  head,  and  serve. 

Some  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  four  or  eight  pieces, 
lengthwise,  may  be  placed  all  around  the  dish ;  or  some 
pickled  cucumbers,  cut  in  fancy  pieces,  or  some  quenelles 
of  veal  or  chicken. 

HEART. 

To  prepare. — Soak  it  in  lukewarm  water  for  about 
three  hours,  trim  it  and  free  it  from  skin,  blood,  and  small 
fibres ;  then  drain  and  wipe  it  dry.  Stuff"  or  fill  it  with 
sausage-meat,  to  which  you  add  previously  two  or  three 
onions  chopped  fine. 

To  (ook. — When  thus  prepared,  envelop  it  in  buttered 


VEAL.  219 

paper,  set  on  the  spit  before  a  good  fire,  baste  often,  re- 
mote the  paper  a  few  minutes  before  taking  it  from  the 
fire,  then  serve  warm  with  a  piquante,  poivrade,  or  ravi- 
ffote  sauce.  It  may  also  be  served  with  a  vinaigrette. 

To  bake. — When  prepared  as  directed  above,  put  it 
in  a  baking-pan ;  spread  a  little  butter  over,  put  a  little 
water  in  the  bakcpan  and  set  in  a  quick  oven,  baste  and 
turn  over  two  or  three  times,  and  when  done,  serve  with 
the  gravy  and  the  same  sauces  as  if  it  were  roasted. 

In  Gratin. — Soak,  drain  and  wipe  it  dry  as  directed. 

Cut  it  in  slices  and  put  them  in  a  crockery  or  other 
pan ;  turn  a  white  sauce  all  over,  then  sprinkle  on  half  a 
gill  of  vinegar  or  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  dust  with  bread- 
crumbs, put  half  a  dozen  lumps  of  butter,  each  about  the 
size  of  a  hazelnut,  all  over;  bake  in  a  rather  quick 
oven. 

KIDNEYS. 

Saute. — When  prepared  as  directed  below,  cut  it  in 
pieces  as  directed  for  kidney  in  brochettes.  Then  put  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  half  an  egg  in  a  frying-pan  and 
set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  a  teaspoonful 
of  flour,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  the  while,  add  half 
a  wine-glass  of  white  wine,  a  tablespoonral  of  broth,  a 
pinch  of  chopped  parsley,  salt  and  pepper,  boil  ten 
minutes  and  lay  the  fillets  in ;  have  a  quick  fire,  and  as 
soon  as  cooked  dish  them,  spread  the  sauce  over,  sprinkle 
on  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  serve. 

To  prepare. — Never  cook  a  kidney  except  it  be  very 
fresh.  Prepare  in  the  following  way,  a  beef,  sheep,  or 
calf's  kidney.  Pig's  kidneys  are  excellent  if  they  have  no 
disagreeable  taste,  but  it  is  very  often  the  case.  The  bad 
taste  may  be  partly  taken  away  by  blanching  the  kidney, 


220  VEAL. 

but  it  makes  it  tough  and  tasteless ;  it  is  better  to  throw 
it  away. 

In  Brochettes. — Split  the  kidney  in  four  lengthwise, 
and  then  cut  it  in  rather  small  pieces.  Cut  fat  salt  pork 
in  pieces  of  the  same  size  as  the  pieces  of  kidney — the 
fatty  part  of  the  kidney  must  not  be  used — then  salt  and 
pepper  the  pieces  of  kidney  ;  take  a  common  skewer  and 
run  it  through  a  piece  of  kidney,  then  through  a  piece  of 
salt  pork ;  repeat  this  till  the  skewer  is  full.  Fill  as  many 
skewers  as  are  necessary  till  the  whole  kidney  is  used ; 
and  then  roast  before  a  good  fire,  basting  often  with 
melted  butter.  Serve  warm. 

Another  way. — Prepare  as  above,  and  instead  of  roast- 
ing, put  the  skewers  in  a  bake-pan,  spread  a  little  butter 
over  the  kidney  and  salt  pork,  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  only  with  cold  water,  and  bake.  While  in  the  oven, 
turn  over  and  baste  occasionally. 

Serve  as  the  above,  with  its  gravy,  and  warm. 

Another. — Skewer  the  kidney,  or  rather  pieces  of  kid- 
ney and  salt  pork  as  above  ;  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  roll 
them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them  in  hot  fat.  Serve 
warm,  but  without  gravy. 

LIGHTS. 

Cut  them  in  four  pieces,  soak  and  wash  them  three  or 
four  times  in  lukewarm  water,  changing  the  water  each 
time ;  press  them  with  the  hands  to  extract  all  the  blood. 
Place  the  lights  in  a  stewpan,  cover  them  with  cold  water, 
and  set  on  a  good  fire ;  boil  two  minutes,  take  them  off, 
throw  them  in  cold  water,  and  drain  them  ;  cut  the  lights 
in  dice.  Have  butter  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and  when 
melted,  lay  the  lights  in,  fry  five  minutes,  keeping  them 
tossed  the  while,  then  sprinkle  on  a  tablespoonful  of  flour, 


VEAL.  221 

stirring  all  the  time  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  pour  on,  little 
by  little,  about  a  pint  of  warm  broth,  also  a  saltspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  a  pinch  of  allspice,  salt,  pepper,  a  bay- 
leaf,  and  sprig  of  thyme;  have  a  brisk  fire,  and  when 
about  half  done,  add  four  or  five  mushrooms,  and  eight 
small  onions.  When  the  whole  is  cooked,  take  off  bay- 
leaf  and  thyme,  then  take  from  the  fire,  beat  two  yolks  of 
eggs  with  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  mix  with  the 
whole,  turn  on  a  dish,  and  serve. 

CALF'S  LIVER. 

How  to  prepare. — Have  water,  with  a  little  salt,  on  the 
fire,  and  at  the  first  boiling,  throw  the  liver  in  for  about 
five  minutes,  and  drain  it. 

How  to  improve  the  Liver  before  cooking  it. — Put  in  a 
tureen  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet-oil,  a  bay-leaf  broken 
in  four  pieces,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  four  of  parsley  chop- 
ped fine,  a  green  onion  also  chopped  fine,  salt,  and  pepper ; 
lay  the  liver  on  the  whole,  and  leave  it  from  four  to  six 
hours,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times. 

How  to  cook,  roasted. — Envelop  the  liver  with  but- 
tered paper,  place  it  on  the  spit  before  a  good  fire,  baste 
often  with  the  oil  from  the  tureen,  after  having  taken  off 
bay-leaf  and  thyme.  A  few  minutes  before  it  is  done, 
take  the  paper  off,  baste  continually  with  the  drippings 
till  well  cooked,  and  serve  it  with  the  gravy. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  a  piquante  or  poivrade 
sauce. 

It  takes  from  thirty-five  to  forty-five  minutes  to 
roast  it. 

The  same,  saute. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan, and  set  it  on  a  sharp  fire ;  when  melted,  add  a 
tcaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley  and  green  onions,  then  the 


222  VEAL. 

liver  cut  in  slices  (after  having  been  prepared  as  above)  ; 
sprinkie  on  a  saltspoonful  of  flour,  then  half  a  wine-glass 
of  warm  broth,  same  of  claret  wine,  salt,  pepper,  and  a 
pinch  of  allspice ;  serve  when  done. 

It  takes  only  from  ten  to  twelve  minutes  for  the  whole 
process. 

The  same,  in  the  Oven. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan  on  a  sharp  fire ;  when  hot,  put  the  liver  in 
(after  having  been  boiled  as  directed  above,  and  after  hav- 
ing cut  it  in  pieces) ;  fry  it  five  minutes,  turning  over 
once  only ;  then  take  from  the  fire,  salt  both  sides  of  the 
slices,  place  them  on  a  warm  dish,  putting  on  each  slice  a 
little  butter  kneaded  with  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  put  two  or  three  minutes  in  a  warm  oven,  take  off, 
sprinkle  on  the  whole  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
serve  in  the  dish  in  wliich  it  has  cooked. 

The  same,  stewed. — Boil  the  liver  as  directed  above, 
and  when  drained  and  cold,  lard  it  well.  Have  butter  in 
a  frying-pan  on  a  brisk  fire ;  when  hot,  put  the  liver  in 
for  about  five  minutes,  turning  it  over  on  every  side. 
Have  in  a  stewpan  four  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice ;  set 
it  on  a  good  fire,  and  when  hot,  lay  the  liver  in  ;  then  add 
a  glass  of  warm  broth,  same  of  white  wine,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
sprig  of  thyme,  two  of  parsley,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two 
cloves,  and  a  small  carrot  cut  in  two ;  cover  the  stewpan, 
subdue  the  fire,  and  let  simmer  three  hours  ;  stir  now  and 
then,  place  the  liver  on  a  dish,  strain  the  sauce  on  it,  and 
serve. 

CALF'S  PLUCK. 

Put  the  pluck  in  cold  water  for  twelve  hours  in  winter 
and  four  in  summer;  change  the  water  once,  dram,  and 
throw  it  in  boiling  water  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes ;  take 


VEAL.  223 

off  and  throw  in  cold  water  to  cool,  and  drain  it  Cut 
the  pluck  in  pieces,  and  cook  it  like  calf's  head,  and 
serve  with  the  same  sauce. 

CALFS    TAIL. 

Take  two  tails,  cut  each  in  two,  throw  them  in  boil- 
ing water  for  three  minutes,  and  drain.  Cut  a  cabbage  in 
two,  trim  off  the  stump,  throw  the  two  halves  in  boiling 
water,  with  a  little  salt,  for  fifteen  minutes,  and  drain  it. 
Put  in  a  tureen  the  tails,  cabbage,  six  ounces  of  lean  ba- 
con, two  sprigs  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  same  quantity  of 
green  onions,  two  cloves,  a  little  piece  of  nutmeg,  a  clove 
of  garlic,  salt,  and  pepper ;  cover  the  whole  with  half  broth 
and  half  water,  and  boil  gently  till  cooked.  Then  take 
off  cloves,  nutmeg,  and  garlic,  turn  the  remainder  on  a 
dish,  and  serve. 

TONGUE. 

Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  a  calf's  tongue,  in  the  same 
and  every  way  like  a  fresh  beef 's  tongue.  The  only  dif- 
ference is,  that,  being  smaller,  it  is  seldom  decorated. 

It  may  be  split  in  two,  lengthwise  and  nearly  through, 
opened  and  served  thus,  with  slices  of  pickled  cu- 
cumbers. 

SWEETBREADS. 

To  prepare. — Soak  them  in  cold  water  for  about  an 
hour.  Take  off  and  remove  the  skin  and  bloody  vessels 
that  are  all  around.  For  two  sweetbreads  set  about  one 
pint  of  water  on  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan  with  salt,  a 
tallespoonful  of  vinegar,  a  few  slices  of  onion,  six  pepper- 
corns, a  clove  of  garlic,  two  cloves,  six  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  and  a  bay-leaf;  boil  two  minutes,  drop  the 
eweetbreads  in,  boil  one  minute  and  take  them  off.  Drop 


224  VEAL, 

them  immediately  in  cold  water  and  leave  them  in  for 
from  two  minutes  to  an  hour.  Put  them  on  a  flat  surface 
with  a  board  over,  and  leave  them  thus  till  they  are  per- 
fectly cold  and  rather  flattened. 

Au  Jus. — Trim  them  a  little,  so  as  to  give  them  a 
better  appearance.  Lard  the  top  or  smooth  side,  then 
butter  the  bottom  of  a  pan,  spread  a  few  slices  of  onion 
on  the  butter ;  add  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove,  two  stalks  of  pars- 
ley ;  place  the  sweetbreads  on  the  whole,  the  larded  side 
up,  cover  the  pan  and  set  on  a  good  fire,  or  in  a  rather 
warm  oven ;  about  ten  minutes  after,  add  two  or  three 
tablespoonfiils  of  broth,  baste  now  and  then  till  done.  If 
the  broth  is  absorbed  before  the  sweetbreads  are  done, 
add  some  more.  Dish  the  sweetbreads,  turn  the  gravy 
over  them  through  a  strainer,  and  serve. 

Another  way. — Prepare  as  above  directed ;  then,  in- 
stead of  larding  it,  you  knead  well  together  two  ounces 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  shallots  and  parsley  well  chop- 
ped, half  a  clove  of  garlic,  salt,  and  pepper ;  place  the 
whole  in  a  stevvpan,  with  the  sweetbreads  on  it,  and  thin 
slices  of  bacon  on  the  sweetbreads ;  set  the  pan  on  a  good 
fire,  and  add  then  half  a  glass  of  broth,  same  of  white 
wine  ;  simmer  till  cooked ;  dish  the  sweetbreads,  throw  a 
few  drops  of  cold  water  in  the  sauce,  skim  off  the  fat, 
strain  the  sauce  on  the  sweetbreads,  and  serve. 

When  the  sweetbreads  au  jus  are  dished  as  directed, 
place  tastefully,  all  around,  either  of  the  following  garni- 
tures :  cauliflower,  chicken-combs,  duxelle,  financiers,  mush- 
rooms, liver,  Macedoine,  quenelles,  and  truffles.  Besides 
these  garnitures,  the  sweetbreads  may  be  decorated  with 
small  skewers,  run  through  a  boiled  craw-fish  and  a  small 
quenelle  of  chicken  or  of  veal.  One  or  two  skewers  mav 
be  stuck  in  each  sweetbread. 


TEAL.  225 

The  sweetbreads,  when  several  are  served  at  a  time, 
may  be  placed  on  the  dish,  either  around  it,  forming  a 
kind  of  crown,  or  forming  a  pyramid,  or  in  any  other 
way,  according  to  fancy.  They  may  also  be  served  with 
a  sauce  fines  kerbcs. 
10* 


POEK. 


TO  SELECT. 

WHEN  the  rind  is  tender  and  thin,  the  pork  is  young; 
when  thick  and  hard,  it  is  old. 

To  be  good,  the  meat  must  be  soft,  and  have  a  fresh 
and  good  appearance. 

We  do  not  think  it  necessary  to  indicate  here  how  to 
make  black  puddings,  chitterlings,  Bologna,  and  other 
sausages.  It  is  nearly,  if  not  quite  impossible,  for  a  per- 
son having  no  practice  in  it,  to  make  them  edible ;  it  is 
better  to  buy  them  ready  made  at  pork-butchers'  shops,  or 
to  hire  an  experienced  person  to  make  them. 

CHINE  AND  FILLET. 

Take  a  good  chine  of  pork,  place  it  on  the  spit  before 
a  sharp  fire,  baste  often  with  a  little  melted  butter  first, 
and  then  with  the  drippings ;  when  properly  cooked,  serve 
it  with  a  vinaigrette,  Robert,  piquante,  or  poivra.de  sauce. 
It  will  take  from  two  to  three  or  four  hours  to  roast,  ac 
cording  to  the  size  of  the  chine. 

HOW  TO  IMPROVE  THE  CHINE  OF  PORK. 

Place  it  in  a  crockery  vessel,  pour  on  it  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet-oil,  then  sprinkle  on  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  chopped  parsley,  also  salt  and  pepper,  two  onions 


PORK.  227 

chopped  fine,  four  cloves,  and  two  bay-leaves ;  leave  thus 
twenty-four  hours  in  winter,  and  ten  in  summer,  turning 
over  two  or  three  times.  The  taste  of  the  meat  is  much 
improved  by  that  process.  The  oil  may  be  used  for  bast- 
ing instead  of  butter. 

Baked. — Put  the  chine  in  a  bakepan,  sprinkle  salt  over 
it,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water,  and  put  in 
a  rather  quick  oven,  baste  often,  and  in  case  there  should 
be  much  fat  in  the  pan,  take  it  off  and  add  a  little  cold 
water. 

When  overdone,  serve  with  any  of  the  following 
purees:  beans,  lentils,  Lima  beans,  onions,  peas,  potatoes, 
sorrel,  or  spinach. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  the  following  sauces :  fines 
heroes,  piquante,  poivrade,  Provenfale,  ravigotet  remolade, 
Robert,  tarragon,  Tartar,  and  vinaigrette. 

It  is  served  also  with  a  tomato-sauce.  Make  more 
sauce  for  pork  than  for  other  dishes,  and  make  the  tomato- 
sauce  rather  thick  by  boiling  it  gently  for  some  time ;  it 
tastes  better  so  with  pork 

Always  use  mustard  with  pork,  if  you  like  it.  Horse- 
radish, also,  is  good  with  it 

CUTLETS. 

Flatten  the  cutlets  with  a  chopper  (they  may  be  im- 
proved in  the  same  way  as  the  chine),  place  them  on  the 
gridiron  and  set  on  a  sharp  fire ;  turn  over  two  or  three 
times,  and  when  properly  done,  serve  them  with  a  piquante, 
Robert,  or  tomato-sauce,  adding  to  them  some  slices  of 
pickled  cucumbers  just  before  serving. 

The  same,  sautees. — Instead  of  broiling  them,  when 
prepared  as  above,  place  them  in  a  frying-pan  with  a  little 
butter,  turn  over  two  or  three  times  during  the  cooking, 
and  serve  as  the  above,  or  on  a  puree  of  sorrel 


228  PORK. 

LEG,  ROASTED. 

How  to  improve  it. — Take  the  skin  or  rind  gently  off, 
put  the  leg  in  a  crockery  vessel,  pour  on  it  the  following 
mixture :  a  pint  of  white  wine,  two  tablespoonfuls  ot 
sweet-oil,  a  bunch  of  sage,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
grated  nutmeg.  Leave  it  thus  two  days  in  winter  and  one 
in  summer,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times  during  the 
process. 

Place  the  leg  on  the  spit  and  put  before  a  very  sharp 
fire,  baste  often  with  the  mixture  from  the  crockery  vessel, 
or  with  melted  butter,  and  serve  when  cooked,  with  the 
gravy  strained.  It  will  take  about  two  or  two  and  a  half 
hours  to  roast  it. 

Baked. — Bake  and  serve  the  leg  in  the  same  and  every 
way  as  the  chine,  with  purees  and  sauces.  Any  part  of 
pork  is  prepared  like  chine. 

Ham  in  Hors-d'oeuvre. — Cut  the  ham  in  small  and  thin 
slices,  place  the  slices  tastefully  on  a  dish,  either  overlap- 
ping or  in  pyramid,  or  in  any  other  fancy  way,  and  serve 
with  parsley  in  the  middle  or  around.  Slices  of  lemon 
may  also  be  served  with  it,  either  with  the  parsley  or 
without  it. 

HAM. 

To  boil. — Sugar-cured  are  preferred  to  others. 

Scrape  off  the  outside  gently,  soak  in  cold  water  foi 
from  six  to  twenty-four  hours,  take  off  and  wipe  dry. 

Envelop  it  in  a  towel  and  tie  it.  Place  it  in  a  kettle 
large  enough  to  hold  it  without  bending  it;  cover  with 
cold  water ;  season  with  six  small  onions,  two  carrots,  four 
cloves,  two  bay-leaves,  a  handful  or  two  plants  of  parsley, 
two  or  three  stalks  of  thyme,  two  of  celery,  two  cloves  of 
garlic  (a  handful  of  hay  and  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine, 


PORK.  229 

if  handy  would  improve  the  taste)  ;  boil  gently  for  four  or 
five  hours,  according  to  the  size  (four  hours  for  a  ten-pound 
one,  five  for  a  fifteen-pound  one).  Pay  no  attention  to  the 
old  saying  that  "  it  takes  half  an  hour  to  every  pound." 

Take  from  the  fire,  remove  the  towel,  break  off  and 
remove  the  small  bone  at  the  larger  end  of  it,  and  without 
tearing  the  meat  Remove  the  rind  also,  leaving  only 
about  two  inches  of  it  near  the  smaller  end,  cutting  it  so 
that  it  will  be  dentilated. 

To  decorate. — It  is  decorated  in  several  ways,  accord- 
ing to  taste  and  fancy.  If  the  fat  is  not  white  after 
having  removed  the  rind,  spread  a  very  thin  coat  of  lard 
over  it,  place  the  ham  on  a  dish,  the  fatty  side  up.  Cut 
carrots,  turnips,  and  beets,  boiled  tender,  in  fancy  shapes, 
with  paste-cutters  or  with  a  knife ;  place  them  tastefully 
all  over  the  ham;  place  also  all  over  it  some  parsley, 
capers,  and  olives.  Chop  some  meat-jelly  and  put  it  all 
around  the  dish,  and  serve.  In  carving  it,  scrape  back 
the  lard  and  vegetables,  slice,  and  serve. 

Another. — When  boiled,  trimmed,  and  the  rind  re- 
moved, put  it  in  the  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes,  bast- 
ing the  while  with  a  Madeira  sauce.  Serve  with  the 
sauce.  Any  kind  of  puree  may  be  served  with  it. 

Another. — When  trimmed  and  soaked  in  water  as  di- 
rected, boil  it  with  half  wine  and  half  water :  the  same 
seasonings  as  when  boiled  in  water.  Use  either  Catawba, 
Sauterne,  or  Rhine  wine.  It  makes  it  more  expensive, 
but  it  is  excellent.  It  is  served  as  when  boiled  in  water. 

Another. — Boil  it  in  claret  wine,  and  when  trimmed 
And  decorated,  serve  it  with  a  mushroom  or  a  truffle  sauce. 

Another. — Boil,  trim,  and  cut  off  the  rind  as  described 
in  the  above  cases;  place  the  frill,  and  serve  with  spinach 
au  beurre. 


230 


PORK. 


Another. — Boil  and 
trim  the  ham  as  above, 
cut  the  rind  in  the 
same  way.  What  is 
left  of  the  rind  is  cut 
as  seen  in  the  cut  op- 
posite: that  is,  some 
small  square  pieces  are 
cut  off,  from  place  to 
place,  so  that  it  re- 
sembles a  checker- 
board; stick  two  or 
more  skewers  in  it, 
glaze  it  with  essence 
of  beef  or  with  su- 
gar, and  serve  either 
on  a  tomato-sauce 
or  on  peas  a  VAn- 
fflaise. 

Ham  English  fash- 
ion. — Soak  it  in  water 
and  trim  it  as  directed. 
Make  some  paste  with 
water  and  flour  only ; 
spread  a  coat  of  this  paste  all  over  the  ham,  and  then  en- 
velop it  in  buttered  or  oiled  paper.  Put  it  on  the  spit  and 
baste  with  fat  while  it  is  roasting.  Roast  it  for  three  or 
three  and  a  half  hours,  according  to  size  ;  remove  the  paper 
about  two  hours  after  it  has  been  taken  from  the  fire ;  cut 
a  hole  in  the  paste  about  an  inch  in  diameter  and  on  the 
lean  side ;  pour  into  it,  little  by  little,  half  a  pint  of  good 
Madeira  wine,  cover  the  hole  with  some  paste,  placing  a 
band  of  paper  on  it  to  prevent  it  from  falling ;  put  the 


POBK.  231 

ham  back  on  the  spit  for  about  twenty  minutes,  and  serve 
whole  with  Madeira  sauce.  We  mean,  by  serving  whole, 
with  the  paste  around  it,  but  not  the  paper. 

Besides  the  sauce,  some  green  vegetables,  boiled  only, 
are  served  on  separate  dishes,  but  eaten  with  the  ham. 

It  is  also  served  like  game,  with  currant-jelly,  apple- 
sauce, etc. 

Champagne  Sauce. — Proceed  as  for  the  above  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  use  Champagne  instead  of  Ma- 
deira wine,  and  when  done  serve  it  with  a  Champagne 
sauce. 

Another. — It  may  be  boiled  as  directed  above,  and 
served  with  a  Champagne  sauce  also. 

Another. — When  soaked  and  dry,  put  it  in  a  crockery 
vessel ;  put  on  and  all  around  it  four  onions  chopped  fine, 
two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  a  piece  of  nutmeg, 
and  pour  on  the  whole  a  bottle  of  white  wine ;  cover  the 
vessel  as  nearly  air-tight  as  possible,  leave  it  thus  for  about 
twenty-four  hours,  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times,  so 
as  to  let  every  side  take  the  seasonings.  Place  the  ham  on 
the  spit  before  a  good  fire,  baste  often  with  the  seasonings 
from  the  crockery  vessel,  and  when  done  take  it  off,  dust 
it  with  fine  raspings  of  bread,  place  it  fifteen  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven,  strain  the  drippings,  boil  them  till  reduced  to  a 
proper  thickness,  dish  the  ham,  pour  the  drippings  on  it, 
and  serve. 

SALTED  PORK. 

The  best  and  only  proper  way  to  cook  salted  pork,  is, 
to  put  it  in  a  kettle,  entirely  cover  it  with  cold  water,  boil 
gently  till  cooked,  and  serve  it  with  a  puree  or  with  a  gar- 
niture of  cabbage.  Any  thing  else  that  you  might  put 
with  it  would  rather  spoil  than  better  it. 


232  POKE. 

PIG'S  EARS. 

How  to  prepare. — Soak  them  in  warm  water  for  a  fe\» 
minutes,  then  wash  and  clean  them  well,  and  scrape  the 
hair  off,  if  any. 

Boiled. — "When  prepared,  you  throw  them  in  boiling 
water  for  two  minutes  and  take  from  the  fire;  add  four 
onions  for  four  ears,  one  carrot,  salt  and  pepper ;  leave  just 
water  enough  to  cover  the  whole,  and  when  cooked,  drain. 
Serve  them  on  a  puree  of  beans  or  of  lentils. 

The  same,  broiled. — When  cleaned,  prepared,  and 
cooked  as  above,  just  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them 
in  bread-crumbs,  place  on  the  gridiron  and  on  the  fire, 
broil  for  about  two  or  three  minutes ;  then  serve  them  with 
a  maitre  d^hotel  sauce. 

PIG'S  FEET. 

Broiled,  or  a  la  Sainte  Menehould. — Split  six  feet  in 
two,  lengthwise,  and  soak  them  in  tepid  water  for  ten 
minutes,  then  envelop  each  in  a  piece  of  linen  well  tied 
or  sewed ;  place  them  in  a  kettle  or  stewpan  \vith  four 
small  onions,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  of 
sweet  basil,  two  bay-leaves,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  two  cloves, 
two  small  carrots  cut  in  pieces,  salt,  pepper,  and  half 
a  pint  of  white  wine ;  cover  with  cold  water,  simmer 
about  six  hours,  skim  them  properly,  fill  with  boiling  water 
so  as  to  have  them  covered  all  the  time;  take  from  the 
fire  when  cooked,  and  when  nearly  cool  take  the  feet  from 
the  kettle,  untie  them,  throw  away  the  linen,  and  let  them 
cool.  Dip  each  in  melted  butter  or  in  sweet-oil,  roll  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  place  on  a  gridiron  and  on  a  good  fire ; 
serve  them  as  they  are,  when  properly  broiled. 

Stuffed. — Prepare  the  feet  and  cook  them  as  above. 
When  perfectly  cold,  remove  the  long  bone  of  each  half, 


PORK.  233 

fill  the  place  with  sausage-ineat ;  dip  each  in  melted  butter 
and  yolk  of  egg,  mixed  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper, 
roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  broil.  While  they  are  broiling, 
baste  them  with  melted  bntter.  Serve  as  they  are,  or  with 
meat-jelly,  or  gravy. 

Stuffed  with  Truffles. — Proceed  as  with  the  above  in 
every  particular,  so  far  as  removing  the  long  bone  of  each 
half,  so  as  to  be  ready  for  stuffing  them. 

Cut  truffles  in  small  dice,  enough  to  half  fill  the  feet,  and 
put  them  on  the  fire  in  a  small  saucepan,  just  covered  with 
Madeira  wine  ;  toss  and  stir  till  the  wine  is  absorbed  and 
nearly  boiled  away,  then  add  a  little  gravy,  stir  half  a 
minute,  take  from  the  fire  and  let  cool.  When  cold,  fill 
each  half  foot  till  half  full,  and  finish  with  sausage-meat ; 
then  dip  in  butter  and  egg,  roll  in  crumbs,  broil  and  serve 
as  the  above. 

They  may  be  filled  with  truffles  only,  and  served  with 
meat-jelly. 

PIG'S  HEAD. 

Soak  in  water  and  clean  it  well ;  take  all  the  bones 
and  flesh  out ;  then  cut  the  flesh  and  about  one  pound 
of  salt  pork  in  strips,  which  you  put  inside  of  the  head, 
well  mixed  with  salt,  pepper,  half  a  dozen  middling-sized 
onions  chopped,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  allspice,  two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of 
thyme,  a  little  sage,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon;  lay  it 
in  a  crockery  vessel  for  from  four  to  six  days.  Envelop 
the  head  in  a  towel,  place  it  in  a  kettle  with  eight  small 
onions,  two  carrots  cut  in  pieces,  salt,  pepper,  four  sprigs 
of  parsley,  four  of  thyme,  four  bay-leaves,  two  cloves,  and 
a  pint  of  white  wine ;  cover  with  water,  set  on  the  fire,  and 
simmer  from  six  to  eight  hours ;  take  from  the  fire  and 


234  POEK. 

drain,  take  the  towel  off  and  drain  again  till  dry  and  cold. 
Serve  it  with  sprigs  of  green  parsley  around. 

Wild-Boar  like. — Prepare,  stuff,  cook,  and  allow  it  to 
cool  as  the  one  preceding;  then  place  it  on  an  oval  dish,  the 
ears  up,  with  one  or  two  skewers  to  hold  them  in  place, 
and  also  two  or  three  decorated  skewers  in  the  middle  of 
the  head  and  between  the  eyes — not  across,  but  lengthwise. 
Glaze  it  with  essence  of  beef,  by  means  of  a  brush ;  make 
eyes  with  meat-jelly,  which  you  cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon, 
and  imitate  the  tongue,  teeth,  and  tusks  with  butter  colored 
with  cochineal  and  kneaded  with  flour.  Cover  the  back 
part  with  jelly  and  skewers  ornamented  with  flowers  or 
slices  of  truffles,  or  with  both.  Some  jelly,  chopped, 
may  also  be  placed  all  around,  and  flowers  in  the  ears  and 
on  the  eyes.  It  is  served  as  an  entree,  or  for  supper,  lunch, 
or  breakfast. 

PIG'S  KIDNEYS. 
Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  like  calf  s  kidneys. 

PIG'S  TAIL. 
Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  like  pig's  ears. 

PIG'S  TONGUE. 

Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  like  beef  tongue. 

Head-cheese. — Soak  a  pig's  head  in  cold  water  for  two 
or  three  hours,  clean,  and  then  cut  the  whole  of  it,  ears 
and  tongue  included,  in  strips  one  or  two  inches  long,  and 
then  put  the  whole  with  about  two  pounds  of  salt  pork, 
cut  in  strips  also,  in  a  crockery  bowl,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  chopped  onion,  chopped  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf, 
and  sage,  chopped  also,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  leave 
thus  for  about  two  or  three  days,  turning  it  over 


PORK.  235 

sionally.  Then  put  the  mixture  in  a  mould  or  wrap  it  in 
a  towel  and  boil  till  done.  It  must  be  immersed  in  the 
water. 

Some  beet  or  sheep's  tongue,  together  with  the  flesh 
of  chicken,  may  be  added  to  the  head. 

When  cooked  and  cold,  if  there  are  any  empty  places, 
they  may  be  filled  with  meat-jelly. 

It  is  served  at  lato  suppers,  or  at  lunch  and  breakfast. 
It  is  always  served  cold,  with  parsley  around. 

SUCKING-PIG. 

A  sucking-pig,  to  be  good,  must  be  fat 

When  properly  cleaned,  and  hoofs  off,  clean  the  inside, 
eaving  the  kidneys;  skewer  it,  put  in  it  half  a  pound  of 
butter  kneaded  with  chopped  parsley  and  green  onions, 
four  or  five  mushrooms,  and  two  white  onions  with  a  clove 
stuck  in  each  ;  place  it  on  the  spit  before  a  good  fire,  baste 
often  with  melted  butter  first,  and  then  with  the  drippings, 
and  when  done  serve  on  a  vinaigrette. 

Some  truffles  may  be  added  to  the  seasoning,  if  handy ; 
it  gives  it  a  good  taste. 

Baked. — Stuff  it  as  the  above,  place  it  in  a  baking- 
pan  with  just  cold  water  enough  to  cover  the  bottom  of 
the  pan ;  put  it  in  a  quick  oven,  baste  often,  and  when 
done  serve  with  a  remolade  or  vinaigrette  sauce. 

When  roasted  or  baked,  place  it  on  a  dish  with  slices 
of  truffles,  mushrooms,  and  parsley  all  around.  Run  some 
skewers  through  slices  of  truffles  and  whole  mushrooms, 
and  plant  them  in  it  like  the  one  represented  in  the  cut 
on  the  following  page. 

A  small  red  apple  is  placed  in  the  mouth  after  it  is 
cooked,  to  make  room  for  which  a  stone  is  placed  in 


236 


PORK. 


the  mouth  before  cooking  it,  in  order  to  keep  the  moutt 
open.     It  is  served  as  warm  as  possible. 


Boned. — A  sucking-pig  can  be  boned  and  filled  just 
the  same  as  a  turkey,  and  cooked  and  served  alike  also. 


POULTRY. 


CHICKENS,  ducks,  turkeys,  and  geese  must  be  killed  not 
.ess  than  twenty-four  hours,  and  not  more  than  three  days 
in  summer,  nor  less  than  two  days  nor  more  than  six  days 
in  winter,  before  cooking  them. 

HOW  TO  PREPARE  AND  CLEAN. 

To  transport  poultry,  see  GAME. 

Poulterers  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  best  and  quick- 
est way  of  killing  poultry  is  by  cutting  the  throat  or  the 
tongue.  Tie  the  legs  of  the  bird,  hang  it  by  the  legs,  then 
kill  and  let  bleed.  Some  cut  the  head  off  and  throw  it 
away  on  the  ground,  but  the  poor  things  do  not  die  so 
fast,  and  therefore  suffer  more. 

As  soon  as  the  throat  or  tongue  is  cut,  if  the  head  is 
held  down  the  bird  dies  sooner,  as  it  allows  the  blood  to 
run  more  freely,  preventing  the  bird  from  bending  and 
twisting  its  neck,  and  also  from  swallowing  its  blood. 

It  is  much  better  to  pick  the  bird  dry.  By  scalding, 
the  skin  is  spoiled,  and  very  often  the  flesh  of  a  young  and 
tender  chicken  is  spoiled  also,  being  blanched.  When 
picked,  singe  the  bird  carefully,  in  order  not  to  burn  tho 
ikiu. 

Split  the  skin  on  the  back  of  the  neck,  from  the  body 


238  POULTRY. 

to  near  the  head ;  then  detach  the  skin  from  the  neck  by 
pulling  it  downward  and  the  neck  upward ;  it  gives  you 
plenty  of  room  to  pull  the  crop  out,  which  you  do.  Cut 
the  skin  oft'  at  about  the  middle  of  the  neck,  and  the  neck 
close  to  the  body ;  that  part  of  the  skin  of  the  neck  is 
left  to  cover  the  place  where  the  neck  was  cut  off,  by  turn- 
ing it  on  the  back  of  the  bird,  and  holding  it  with  twine 
in  trussing. 

Make  an  incision  under  the  rump,  lengthwise,  and 
large  enough  to  draw  the  bird  easily. 

When  drawn,  wipe  the  inside  of  the  bird  with  a  towel, 
but  do  not  wash  it,  except  when  you  have  broken  the  gall- 
bladder. If  that  should  happen,  cut  the  bird  in  pieces 
immediately  and  wash  well  in  lukewarm  water;  never 
roast  or  prepare  whole  a  bird  that  has  had  the  gall-blad- 
der broken  in  it  in  drawing  it.  Saute  it  or  prepare  it  in 
fricassee. 

If  there  should  be  any  thing  unclean  on  the  outside, 
wipe  it  off,  if  possible,  or  otherwise  cut  the  place  off,  or 
wash  only  the  unclean  place.  A  washed  bird  is  a  very 
inferior  article.  If  you  see  that  a  bird  cannot  be  cleansed 
properly  except  by  washing  it,  do  not  buy  it. 

CHICKEN. 

To  select. — Buy  a  chicken  with  white  flesh  and  pale- 
yellow  fat.  If  young,  the  cock  has  small  spurs,  the  hen 
has  the  lower  part  of  the  legs  and  feet  rather  soft  and 
smooth ;  those  parts  are  rough  in  old  ones. 

If  the  rump  is  hard  and  stiff,  they  are  fresh  enough ; 
but  if  soft,  it  is  necessary  to  examine  the  bird  carefully ; 
it  might  be  tainted. 

To  truss. — When  prepared  as  directed  for  poultry, 


POULTRY.  239 

put  the  bird  on  the  table  on  its  back,  and  with  a  chop- 
per or  with  a  round  stick  flatten  the  breast-bone,  which 
you  break  at  a  single  blow  if  possible ;  the  bird  is  much 
more  sightly  when  served.  Cut  the  legs  off  just  above 
the  first  joint,  or  cut  off  only  half  of  the  claws  and  trim 
off  the  ends  of  the  wings.  Place  the  bird  on  a  table,  the 
breast  up  and  the  ruinp  toward  you.  Push  the  legs  under 
the  skin,  so  that,  by  holding  them  perpendicularly  and 
pressing  on  them,  the  part  from  the  second  to  the  third  joint 
is  alongside  the  chicken,  or  horizontally.  Then  run  a  truss- 
ing-needle,  with  twine  attached  to  it,  just  above  the  bone 
of  the  leg,  as  near  the  second  joint  as  possible,  on  the  side 
(toward  you)  of  the  bone  of  the  leg  that  is  perpendicular, 
through  the  leg  (which  leg  is  the  left  one  of  the  bird), 
body,  and  also  through  the  bird,  and  at  the  same  place, 
that  is,  as  near  the  second  joint  as  possible.  Turn  the 
bird  upside  down  and  the  neck  toward  you ;  turn  the  ends 
of  the  wings  on  the  back,  as  seen  in  the  cut  (p.  240),  turn 
the  skin  of  the  neck  on  the  back  also,  between  or  under 
the  wings  and  in  order  to  cover  the  place  where  the  neck 
has  been  cut  off,  then  run  the  needle  again  through  the 
right  wing,  the  skin  of  the  neck  and  part  of  the  body, 
and  through  the  other  wing.  Tie  the  ends  of  the  twine 
fast  together. 

As  it  is,  the  legs  of  the  bird,  when  on  its  back,  are 
pointing  upward.  Bend  them  gently  down  till  they  are 
perpendicular  and  as  seen  in  the  cut,  run  the  trussing- 
needle  through  both  and  also  through  the  body,  above 
the  bones  of  the  legs  and  under  the  end  of  the  breast-bone ; 
run  it  again  the  other  way,  but  under  the  bones  of  the  legs, 
tie  the  two  ends  of  the  twine  together,  and  you  have  a 
bird  trussed  exactly  like  the  one  represented  in  the  cut  on 
next  page. 


240 


POULTRY. 


Another  way  to  truss  is,  to  cut  only  half  of  the  claws, 
instead  of  cutting  the  legs  at  the  first  joint;  but,  to  truss 
thus,  the  first  joint  must  be  partly  cut  as  represented  be- 
low. If  the  nerve  were  not  cut,  it  would  contract  in  cook- 
ing, and  instead  of  being  straight,  the  legs  would  point 
upward. 


A  bird  stuffed  is  trussed  exactly  in  the  same  way  as 
above,  with  the  exception  that  the  skin  of  the  neck  must 
be  sewed  up  with  a  trussing-needle  before  commencing  to 
truss  the  legs,  and  the  incision  must  also  be  sewed  up  as 
soon  as  filled  and  before  trussing. 

The  twine  used  to  sew  and  truss  the  bird  is  removed 
just  before  dishing  it. 

Some  experiments  have  been  made  lately,  in  France, 
to  find  out  the  best  way  to  kill  chickens  and  make  them 
tender.  Those  killed  by  electricity  were  IP  ore  tender  than 
any  other,  but  they  must  be  cooked  immediately,  as  they 
become  tainted  in  a  very  short  time. 


POULTRY.  241 

To  blanch. — When  cut  in  pieces  as  directed,  throw  it  in 
boiling  water  to  which  a  little  salt  has  been  added ;  boil 
two  minutes  and  drain. 

To  cut. — To  make  a  chicken  saute  or  in  fricassee,  it  is 
generally  cut  into  eight  pieces ;  the  two  legs,  the  wings, 
one  piece  of  the  breast-bone,  and  three  pieces  of  the  back- 
bone. The  ends  of  the  wings,  the  lower  part  of  the  legs 
after  being  skinned  by  warming  them,  the  neck,  gizzard, 
heart,  kidneys,  and  head,  are  put  in  the  soup-kettle.  Gen- 
erally the  bones  of  the  legs  above  the  second  joint  are  re- 
moved by  breaking  them  with  the  back  of  a  knife  just 
above  the  second  joint.  The  ends  of  the  small  bones  of 
the  three  pieces  of  the  back-bone  are  trimmed  off 
also. 

To  dish  and  serve. — Dish  the  pieces  in  the  following 
order :  the  neck,  gizzard,  the  fore  part  of  the  back  and  the 
low  part  of  the  legs  in  the  middle ;  then  one  leg  on  each  side 
of  the  dish,  with  one  wing  beside  each,  then  the  breast 
and  hind  part  of  the  back,  and  lastly  the  ends  of  the  wings 
at  the  top.  If  cut  in  eight  pieces  only,  place  the  breast- 
bone on  the  middle  of  the  dish,  the  hind  part  of  the  back- 
bone at  one  end  of  it  and  the  two  others  at  the  other  end ; 
the  legs  and  wings  on  each  side. 

Boiled. — A  chicken  is  boiled  only  when  it  is  an  old 
one,  whose  tenderness  is  doubtful,  and  which  is  not  needed 
to  make  broth  or  consomme. 

Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  it  as  directed  for  poultry, 
Brown  the  bird  in  a  saucepan  with  about  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter, then  half  cover  it  with  cold  water ;  season  with  a  few 
slices  of  onion,  same  of  carrot,  two  cloves,  two  stalks  of 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper.  Boil  gently  about  one  hour  and 
a  half,  and  when  done,  dish  the  bird,  strain  the  sauce  over 
it,  and  serve  warm. 
11 


2-12  POTJLTEY. 

If  the  sauce  boils  away,  add  a  little  cold  water ;  and  if 
there  is  any  fat  on  it,  skim  it  off. 

An  old  chicken  may  be  cooked  especially  to  make  a 
salad. 

Boned. — Pick,  bone,  fill,  cook,  and  serve  a  boned 
chicken  exactly  like  a  boned  turkey ;  the  only  difference  is, 
that  it  requires  less  filling,  being  smaller. 

For  an  extra,  legs  of  large  chickens  may  be  boned  and 
filled  like  the  chicken,  the  rest  being  used  for  a  fricassee. 

Broiled. — Young,  or  what  are  called  spring  chickens, 
are  broiled ;  an  old  one  would  not  be  as  good. 

To  broil,  a  chicken  is  split  in  two  lengthwise,  or  the 
back  only  is  split,  so  as  to  open  it.  Salt  both  sides  and 
butter  them  slightly,  then  broil  on  a  good  but  not  sharp 
fire.  Serve  with  a  maitre-cT hotel,  piquante,  or  ravigote 
sauce. 

Broiled  hunter-like. — When  cleaned  and  prepared,  split 
the  chicken  in  two  lengthwise  and  place  it  in  a  crockery 
dish  with  the  following  seasonings:  a  teaspoonful  of 
parsley  chopped  fine,  a  middling-sized  onion  in  slices, 
two  cloves,  salt,  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  sweet-oil,  and 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Half  an  hour  after  turn  the 
chicken  over,  and  after  another  half  hour  place  the  above 
seasonings  all  around  the  chicken,  fasten  them  with  paper, 
tie  the  paper  with  twine,  and  broil  carefully  on  a  rather 
slow  fire,  and  turning  over  two  or  three  times.  When 
done,  remove  the  paper  in  which  they  are  enveloped,  scrape 
off"  the  slices  without  scratching  the  meat,  and  serve  as 
warm  as  possible  with  a  maitre-d>  hotel,  ravigote,  or  Madeira 
sauce. 

When  an  older  chicken  is  prepared  hunter-like,  it  is 
generally  served  with  a  Tartar  sauce. 

Another  way. — Clean  and  prepare  a  chicken  as  directed. 


POULTBY.  243 

Cut  the  neck  off,  also  the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  split  the 
breast  in  two  so  as  to  open  the  chicken,  and  flatten  it  with 
a  chopper.  Put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  sauce- 
pan and  set  it  on  the  fire;  when  melted,  add  ateaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  stir  for  half  a  minute  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  then  put  the  chicken  in  with  salt  and  pepper ;  when 
about  half  fried  on  one  side,  turn  it  over  and  half  fry  the 
other  side ;  then  take  off  the  chicken,  roll  it  in  chopped 
parsley  and  bread-crumbs  mixed  together,  broil  it  properly 
and  serve  on  a  Tartar  sauce. 

A  chicken  broiled  either  way  above  described  may 
also  be  served  on  a  Bechamel  or  on  a  cream  sauce. 

Croquettes. — The  proportions  that  we  give  below  are 
for  half  a  middling-sized  chicken. 

A  chicken  may  be  cooked  especially  to  make  cro- 
quettes, but  it  is  generally  made  with  cold  meat. 

Chop  the  meat  fine.  Chop  fine  also  half  a  middling- 
sized  onion ;  fry  it  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  then  add 
half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  for  half  a  minute,  then 
add  also  the  chopped  meat  and  a  little  over  a  gill  of  broth, 
salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  stir  for  about  two  minutes, 
take  from  the  fire,  mix  two  yolks  of  eggs  with  it,  put  back 
on  the  fire  for  one  minute,  stirring  the  while ;  lastly  you 
add  four  mushrooms  chopped,  or  two  truffles,  chopped  also, 
or  both,  according  to  taste ;  do  not  put  back  on  the  fire, 
but  turn  the  mixture  into  a  dish,  spread  it  and  put  it  away 
to  cooL 

When  perfectly  cold,  mix  it  well,  as  the  upper  part  is 
more  dry  than  the  rest ;  put  it  in  parts  on  the  paste-board, 
about  a  tablespoonful  for  each  part.  Have  bread-crumbs 
on  the  paste-board,  roll  each  part  of  the  shape  you  wish ; 
either  round  like  a  small  sausage,  or  flat,  or  of  a  chop- 
shape ;  then  dip  each  croquette  or  part  in  beaten  egg,  roll 


24A  POULTRY. 

in  bread-crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  (See  FRI- 
ING.) 

The  best  way  to  shape  them,  is  to  roll  each  part  round 
first  with  a  few  bread-crumbs,  then  with  a  knife  smooth 
both  ends,  while  with  the  left  hand  you  roll  them  gentlyf 
and  if  wanted  flat,  strike  gently  on  them  with  the  blade 
of  a  knife.  If  wanted  of  a  chop-shape,  when  flat,  shape 
with  the  hands  and  strike  again  to  flatten  them. 

Croquettes  are  made  with  any  kind  of  cold  meat. 

In  Fricassee. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  as  directed.  If 
the  flesh  is  not  white,  blanch  it.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan, 
cover  it  with  broth  or  cold  water  (broth  is  better  than 
water),  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  add  one  onion  whole,  and  if 
covered  with  water,  add  also  a  bunch  of  seasonings,  com- 
posed of  three  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf, 
and  one  clove,  boil  gently  till  done.  Put  about  two  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  saucepan  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  set 
on  the  fire,  stir  and  mix  while  the  butter  is  melting ;  then 
turn  the  broth  or  water  in  which  the  chicken  has  been 
cooked  into  this  pan  through  a  strainer,  add  salt,  six  mush- 
rooms sliced,  then  the  pieces  of  chicken ;  give  one  boil, 
dish  the  pieces  as  directed,  mix  a  yolk  of  egg  in  the  sauce, 
turn  it  over  the  chicken,  and  serve  with  or  without  a  border 
of  paste. 

Border  of  Paste. — Knead  well  together,  so  as  to  make 
a  rather  thick  paste,  two  whites  of  eggs  with  flour ;  spread 
it  with  a  rolling-pin  in  a  long  strip  about  two  inches  and 
a  half  broad  and  one-fifth  of  an  inch  thick.  Trim  the  sides 
if  not  straight ;  cut  three  rows  of  holes  in  the  middle  with 
a  fruit-corer,  then  cut  the  strip  of  paste  in  two,  length- 
wise and  in  the  middle  of  the  middle  row  of  holes.  Cut 
it  again  across  in  pieces  about  three  or  four  inches  long. 
Put  it  in  a  warm  place  to  dry  till  hard  enough  to  keep  in 


POULTEY. 


245 


shape  and  still  be  pliable ;  warm  the  dish  on  which  you 
wish  to  place  it ;  beat  the  white  of  an  egg  just  a  little  with  a 
pinch  of  sugar,  glaze  the  straight  side  of  the  paste  with  it ; 
place  it  all  around  and  on  the  border  of  the  dish  with  the 
dentilated  side  up.  Place  the  pieces  of  chicken  inside  of 
the  border  as  directed  above,  and  serve. 

The  cut  below  represents  the  border.     One,  a,  is  the 
border  before  being  cut  in  two,  and  b  when  cut. 


0    0 

O 

o 

) 

0    0 

O 

o 

) 

0    0 

o 

o 

) 

0    0 

o 

o 

) 

0    0 

o 

o 

) 

0    0 

o 

It  may  seem  difficult  to  place  the  border  at  first,  but 
it  wil  be  easily  done  after  having  tried  once  or  twice,  and 


246  POULTRY. 

following  the  directions  previously  given.  It  is  better  to  try 
when  not  in  a  hurry  and  before  being  wanted ;  that  is,  be- 
fore you  wish  to  serve  it.  The  border  may  be  made -and 
placed  on  a  dish  without  a  chicken,  it  will  be  better  for  an 
experiment. 

In  Fricassee  a  la  chevaliere  or  Parisienne. — While  the 
chicken  is  cooking  as  directed  for  fricassee,  prepare  a  gar- 
niture of  chicken-combs,  and,  when  the  chicken  is  dished, 
place  the  garniture  all  around  it,  and  serve  warm. 

A  la  Francaise. — While  the  fricassee  is  being  made, 
prepare  a  garniture  of  mushrooms  or  one  of  truffles,  or 
both. 

Dish  the  chicken  as  directed,  place  a  garniture  of 
mushrooms  or  one  of  truffles,  or  both,  tastefully  all  around, 
and  serve  warm. 

When  a  fricassee  is  made  for  several  persons,  with 
two,  three,  four,  or  more  chickens,  three  garnitures  may  be 
placed  around  the  same  dish,  and,  when  carefully  and  taste- 
fully arranged,  it  makes  a  sightly  one. 

The  three  garnitures  are,  generally,  of  chicken-combs, 
mushrooms,  and  truffles ;  they  may  be  also  of  chicken- 
combs,  quenelles  of  chicken,  and  croutons;  or,  of  financiere, 
truffles,  and  chicken-combs  ;  or  a  boiled  craw-fish  here  and 
there,  and  two  of  any  of  the  above-mentioned  garnitures. 

Instead  of  a  garniture,  it  may  be  served  with  a  border 
of  rice.  (See  RIOE  IN  BORDER.) 

A  la  financier e. — This  is  a  fricassee  of  chicken  serve i 
with  a  Jinanciere  garniture. 

Au  supreme. — Chicken,  or  rather  chickens,  au  supreme 
is  a  fricassee  made  with  the  breasts  of  chickens  only. 
Each  side  of  the  breast-bone  is  carefully  detached  in  two 
long  pieces  called  fillets;  so  that,  with  two  chickens,  there 
are  eight  pieces. 


POULTRY.  247 

To  detach  them  properly,  split  the  skin  right  on  the 
breast-bone  from  the  neck  to  the  rump,  then  pull  it  off  on 
both  sides  so  as  to  have  the  whole  breast  skinned.  Take 
hold  of  one  wing  with  the  left  hand,  and,  with  a  sharp 
knife  in  the  right,  split  or  cut  the  joint  off  carefully,  we 
mean  the  third  joint  of  the  wing,  or  that  near  the  body ; 
as  soon  as  the  joint  is  cut,  by  merely  raising  the  back  of 
the  knife,  leaving  the  edge  on  the  cut  joint  and  pressing 
gently  on  the  chicken,  you  easily  pull  off  the  larger  part 
of  the  half  breast ;  detach  the  end  of  the  other  half  with 
the  point  of  the  knife  and  pull  it  off  also. 

Do  the  same  for  the  other  side. 

When  the  breasts  or  fillets  are  thus  detached,  prepare 
them  as  chicken  in  fricassee,  and  serve  with  a  border  of 
paste,  or  with  one  of  rice,  as  directed  in  the  receipts 
above,  and  serve  warm. 

What  is  left  of  the  chickens  is  put  in  the  broth-kettle, 
or  used  to  make  consomme. 

Another  supreme. — Detach  the  breasts  of  two  chick- 
ens as  above  directed,  then  prepare  the  eight  pieces  or 
fillets  as  directed  for  chicken  saute.  Ten  minutes  before 
taking  from  the  fire,  add  and  mix  with  the  whole  two  or 
three  truffles,  weighing  at  least  six  ounces,  and  sliced; 
finish  the  cooking,  and  serve. 

To  serve. — Dish  the  pieces  tastefully  and  according  to 
fancy,  and  put  the  dish  away  in  a  warm  place,  then  mix 
a  supreme  sauce  with  what  you  have  left  in  the  pan,  sauce, 
truffles,  etc.,  boil  the  whole  till  rather  thick,  stirring  con- 
tinually while  it  is  boiling,  turn  over  the  pieces  of  chicken, 
and  serve.  The  supreme  sauce  used  in  that  case  is  gen- 
erally made  with  very  rich  chicken  gravy. 

Chickens  au  supreme  is  considered  a  ?ery  recherche 
dish,  and  it  is  a  rather  expensive  one.  For  a  grand  dinner, 


248  POULTRY. 

the  breasts  of  six  chickens  are  used,  and  all  the  other  parts 
of  the  chicken  are  used  to  make  chicken  gravy  with  rich 
broth,  and  that  gravy  is,  in  its  turn,  used  to  make  the 
supreme  sauce  that  is  mixed  with  the  liquor  in  which  the 
chicken  has  cooked. 

The  broth  used  to  saute  the  chicken  is  generally  rich, 
and  very  often  two  pounds  of  truffles  are  used  with  six 
chickens. 

A  la  Bourguignonne. — This  is  a  fricassee  also,  but 
instead  of  covering  the  chicken  with  broth  or  water,  it  is 
covered  with  white  wine. 

Proceed,  for  the  rest,  and  serve  as  fricassee. 

With  Carrots. — While  you  are  cooking  a  chicken  in 
fricassee,  prepare  a  dish  of  carrots  au  jus  or  glazed,  for 
ornamenting  the  dish ;  cut  the  carrots  with  a  vegetable 
spoon  before  cooking  them. 

Dish  the  chicken  as  directed,  place  the  carrots  taste- 
fully all  around  the  meat,  and  serve  warm.  This  dish 
was  devised  by  a  monk,  and  is  often  called  a  la  Saint 
Lambert. 

A  la  JKoyale. — This  is  nearly  the  same  as  au  supreme  ; 
the  only  difference  is,  that  the  pieces  of  breast  or  fillets  are 
larded  with  salt  pork,  and  then  cooked,  served  and  deco- 
rated the  same  as  described  for  au  supreme. 

Marengo. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  up  the  chicken  as 
for  fricassee.  Put  in  a  stewpan  five  teaspoonfuls  of  sweet- 
oil,  and  set  on  a  good  fire  ;  when  hot,  put  the  chicken  in 
with  salt  and  pepper ;  turn  over  once  in  a  while,  till  every 
piece  is  of  a  golden  color,  and  nearly  cooked,  when  add 
two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  one 
clove,  tied  together  with  twine ;  add  also  three  or  four 
mushrooms  cut  in  slices,  and  if  handy  three  or  four  truf- 
fles also  cut  in  slices ;  when  the  whole  is  cooked,  dish  the 


POULTRY.  24:9 

pieces  of  chicken  thus :  the  neck  and  gizzard,  with  tho 
fore  part  of  the  back,  and  the  low  part  of  the  legs  in  the 
middle,  one  leg  on  each  side  of  the  dish  with  one  wing 
beside  each,  then  the  breast  and  hind  part  of  the  back, 
and  the  ends  of  the  wings  at  the  top.  Have  an  Italian 
sauce  ready,  pour  it  on  the  chicken,  place  on  the  whole 
the  pieces  of  mushrooms  and  truffles,  also  some  croutons 
fried  in  butter,  and  serve. 

With  Green  Peas.'— Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  the  bird 
as  directed  for  poultry,  then  cook  it  whole  as  a  stewed 
chicken  above.  When  done,  dish  the  chicken,  place  peas 
a  FAnglaise  all  around,  strain  the  sauce  over  the  whole, 
and  serve. 

Larded  with  Truffles. — Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  a  fat 
chicken.  Make  about  two  dozen  small  pegs,  with  truffles, 
about  half  an  inch  long  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  di- 
ameter. Take  a  skewer,  make  a  hole  in  the  flesh  of  the 
breast  of  the  chicken,  and  put  a  truffle-peg  into  it.  Put  a 
dozen  pegs  in  the  same  way  on  each  side  of  the  breast- 
bone, and  cook  and  serve  the  chicken.  It  is  either  boiled, 
stewed,  or  roasted,  and  served  as  directed  for  either. 

With  Tarragon. — Proceed  as  for  a  stewed  chicken, 
with  the  exception  that  it  is  cooked  whole  after  being 
trussed  as  directed  for  poultry,  and  after  having  stuffed  it 
with  two  ounces  of  butter  kneaded  with  half  a  dozen 
stalks  of  tarragon  chopped  fine.  Serve  with  a  few  stalks 
of  tarragon  around  the  dish. 

Roasted. — Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  the  chicken  as 
directed.  Place  it  on  the  spit  slightly  salted  and  buttered 
all  around,  or  envelop  it  in  buttered  paper,  or  merely 
cover  the  breast  with  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  tied  with 
iwine.  Baste  often,  at  first  with  melted  butter,  and  then 
with  the  drippings. 
11* 


250  POULTRY. 

If  the  bird  Las  been  enveloped  with  paper,  the  lattet 
must  be  removed  about  ten  minutes  before  taking  the 
chicken  from  the  fire ;  do  the  same  with  the  slices  of  salt 
pork. 

It  takes  from  twenty-five  minutes  to  one  hour  to  roast 
a  chicken,  with  a  good  fire.  The  time  depends  as  much 
on  the  quality  of  the  bird  as  on  the  size.  With  a  skewer 
or  a  small  knife,  or  merely  by  pressing  on  it  with  the  fin- 
gers, any  one  can  learn  how  to  tell  when  done,  after  having 
roasted  only  two  or  three.  Even  by  the  look  of  it,  many 
persons  can  tell. 

With  Water-cress. — Dish  the  chicken  when  roasted, 
put  fresh  water-cress  all  around,  remove  the  fat  from  the 
gravy,  which  you  turn  over  the  whole  ;  add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste,  a  little  vinegar  or  lemon-juice,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Sauces. — Wh en  roasted,  serve  with  the  folio  wing 
sauces :  soubise,  tarragon,  oyster,  tomato,  and  Provencale. 

With  Garnitures. — Dish  the  bird  when  roasted  as 
directed,  and  place  one  of  the  following  garnitures  around, 
and  serve  warm :  quenelles  of  chicken  or  of  veal,  Mace- 
doine,  and  cauliflowers. 

With  Macaroni. — Spread  four  ounces  of  macaroni  au 
jus  on  a  dish,  place  the  roasted  chicken  on  it,  and  serve 
the  whole  warm. 

With  Butter. — It  may  be  served  with  its  gravy  and 
craw-fish  or  lobster-butter. 

With  Chestnuts. — When  dished,  surround  the  chicken 
with  chestnuts  glazed,  and  serve. 

With  Pigeons. — Dish  the  bird,  place  four  roasted 
pigeons  around,  one  at  each  end  and  one  on  each  side ; 
fill  the  intervals  with  green  peas  au  jus,  and  serve  warm. 

All  the  above  may  be  decorated  with  skewers.  Eun 
the  skewer  in  a  chestnut  and  then  in  a  craw-fish  ;  or,  in  a 


POULTBY.  251 

quenelle  and  then  in  a  chestnut  or  craw-fish  ;  or,  in  a 
chicken-comb,  and  in  a  quenelle,  and  stick  it  on  the  chick- 
en. Two  skewers  only  for  a  chicken  make  a  fine  decora- 
tion. Slices  of  truffles,  of  mushrooms,  and  chicken-combs, 
make  fine  as  well  as  delicious  decorations. 

Baked. — Put  the  chicken  in  a  baking-pan,  after  being 
cleaned,  prepared,  and  trussed.  Salt  and  butter  the  breast, 
which  must  be  upward,  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper 
on  it,  and  a  little  cold  water  in  the  bakepan.  Set  it  in  a 
warm,  but  not  too  quick  oven ;  baste  often  with  the 
liquor  in  the  pan.  If  the  water  and  juice  are  absorbed 
by  the  heat,  add  a  little  cold  water,  so  as  to  have  liquor  to 
baste  with.  Remove  the  paper  about  ten  minutes  before 
taking  from  the  oven.  It  takes  about  forty  minutes  to 
cook  a  chicken  of  middle  size. 

Serve  a  baked  chicken  with  sauces  and  garnitures,  and 
decorated  the  same  as  if  it  were  roasted,  and  as  described 
in  the  above  receipts. 

Saute. — After  being  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed, 
cut  the  chicken  in  pieces  as  for  fricassee.  Put  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  about  an  ounce  of  butter ;  set  on  the  fire, 
stir  now  and  then  till  it  is  of  a  golden  color  and  pour  off 
the  fat,  if  any  is  in  the  saucepan.  Add  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour  and  stir  half  a  minute,  then  add  also  broth  enough 
to  nearly  cover  the  meat,  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  a 
bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  four  stalks  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  half  a  bay-leaf,  and  one  clove,  the  four  tied 
together  with  twine ;  add  salt,  and  one  onion  whole.  Boil 
gently  till  done.  Ten  minutes  before  serving,  add  half  a 
dozen  mushrooms. 

Dish  the  pieces  of  chicken  as  directed  for  fricassee, 
place  the  mushrooms  over  them,  strain  the  sauce  all  over, 
and  serve  warm. 


252  POULTRY. 

If  the  chicken  is  done  before  the  sauce  is  reduced  or  is 
rather  thick,  dish  the  meat  and  put  it  away  in  a  warm 
place,  boil  the  rest  slowly  till  reduced,  and  then  turn  it 
over  the  meat.  Serve  with  or  without  a  border,  as  in  a 
fricassee.  Truffles  may  be  used  instead  of  mushrooms, 
if  handy,  or  liked.  Water  may  be  used  instead  of  broth, 
but  it  is  inferior. 

Another. — To  be  good  saute,  the  chicken  must  be 
young  and  tender.  Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  as  directed. 
Put  about  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  put  the  pieces  of 
chicken  in,  stir  now  and  then  till  all  the  pieces  have  a 
golden  hue ;  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  again  for 
about  one  minute ;  then  add  also  salt  and  pepper,  half  a 
pint  of  broth,  or  one  gill  of  broth  and  one  gill  of  white 
wine ;  boil  gently  for  five  or  six  minutes.  Add  again  a 
teaspoonful  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  five  or  six  mushrooms 
cut  in  slices,  keep  it  boiling  gently  till  done,  and  serve 
warm. 

If  tbe  sauce  is  boiling  away,  or  is  found  too  thick,  add 
a  little  broth.  Use  Champagne,  Sauterne,  or  Catawba 
wine.  It  is  much  better  with  wine  than  without. 

Another. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  the  chicken  as  for 
fricassee.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  about  an  ounce  of 
butter,  set  on  the  fire,  stir  once  in  a  while  till  all  the  pieces 
are  of  a  fine  golden  color;  then  pour  off  the  fat  that  may 
be  in  the  pan.  Sprinkle  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  all  over  it, 
and  stir  for  about  half  a  minute,  then  add  three  or  four 
shallots,  or  two  or  three  small  green  onions,  chopped  fine, 
parsley,  and  three  or  four  mushrooms,  both  cut  in  small 
pieces,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  four  sprigs  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  one  clove,  salt,  and 
pepper. 


POULTRY.  253 

Stir  often  till  cooked,  and  serve  with  a  few  drops  of 
emon-juice  sprinkled  on  it  when  dished. 

Dish  as  directed  for  fricassee. 

Stewed. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  the  chicken  iu  pieces 
as  for  fricassee.  Brown  them  in  a  saucepan  with  about  one 
ounce  of  butter,  then  take  the  pieces  off,  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  to  the  butter,  stir  for  one  minute,  then 
add  also  three  or  four  mushrooms  in  slices,  a  small  onion, 
and  half  a  dozen  sprigs  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  stir  for 
two  or  three  minutes,  then  cover  with  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine  and  the  same  of  broth,  boil  for  ten  minutes,  put  the 
pieces  of  chicken  back  into  the  pan,  boil  gently  till  done, 
and  serve  warm  as  it  is. 

The  pieces  of  chicken  are  dished  as  directed  for 
fricassee. 

Stuffed  with  Bread. — Soak  stale  bread  in  cold  water, 
and  then  squeeze  the  water  out  of  it.  Put  one  ounce  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  as  soon  as 
melted,  add  one  middling-sized  onion  chopped  fine,  and 
stir  till  it  turns  rather  yellow,  when  add  the  bread,  stir 
two  minutes ;  add  again  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg, 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth  ;  stir  again  two  or 
three  minutes,  take  from  the  fire,  mix  in  it  a  yolk  of  egg, 
put  back  on  the  fire  for  half  a  minute,  stirring  the  while, 
take  off  again,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  use. 
Fill  the  crop  (we  mean  the  place  where  the  crop  was)  and 
also  the  body  or  inside  of  the  bird  with  the  above  mixture, 
truss  it  as  directed ;  roast  or  bake  it,  and  serve  with  the 
gravy. 

Stuffed  with  Sausage-meat. — Set  a  saucepan  on  the 
fire  with  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter  in  it ;  when  melted 
add  an  onion  chopped  fine,  stir,  and,  when  nearly  fried, 
add  also  the  heart  and  liver  of  the  bird,  chopped  fine,  four, 


254:  POULTRY. 

six,  or  eight  ounces  of  sausage-meat  (according  to  the 
size  of  the  bird),  stir  for  about  twelve  minutes,  take  from 
the  fire,  mix  a  yolk  of  egg  with  it,  also  four  or  five  mush- 
rooms chopped,  or  one  or  two  truffles,  chopped  also,  put 
back  on  the  fire  for  five  minutes,  stirring  the  while,  take 
from  the  fire  again,  fill  the  prepared  bird  with  the  mixture, 
and  as  above,  roast  or  bake  it,  and  serve  it  with  its  gravy. 

Stuffed  with  Chestnuts. — Roast  chestnuts  and  skin 
them,  removing  also  the  white  envelope  that  is  under  the 
outside  skin.  Fill  the  inside  of  a  cleaned  and  prepared 
chicken  till  half  full,  add  about  one  and  a  half  ounces  of 
butter,  finish  the  filling  ;  truss,  roast  or  bake  as  directed, 
and  serve  the  bird  with  its  gravy. 

Stuffed  with  Truffles. — The  truffles,  being  preserved, 
do  not  require  any  preparation,  half  a  pound  is  enough  for 
a  middling-sized  chicken ;  it  is  not  necessary  to  put  any 
where  the  crop  was. 

Salt  and  pepper  the  inside  of  the  bird,  and  put  in  it  also 
about  a  teaspoonfal  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  then  the 
truffles ;  sew  the  incision  made  to  draw  it ;  truss  it  as 
directed,  and  roast  or  bake. 

The  same,  stewed. — When  stuffed,  put  four  ounces  of 
salt  pork  cut  in  dice  in  a  saucepan,  with  slices  of  onion 
and  carrot,  place  the  chicken  on  them,  season  with  four 
stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  one  clove 
tied  together ;  half  cover  it  with  broth  and  white  wine, 
of  equal  parts,  set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  till  done,  turning 
it  over  several  times.  Dish  the  bird,  strain  the  sauce  over 
it,  and  serve  warm. 

After  being  stuffed  with  truffles,  it  may  be  kept  two 
days  before  cooking. 

Cold. — What  is  left  from  the  previous  day's  dinner  is 
known  under  the  name  of  cold  meat. 


POULTRY.  255 

For  about  half  a  chicken  put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and,  when  melted,  turn  into  it  a  financiere  gar- 
niture, and  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  boil  gently  about 
eight  minutes,  put  the  cold  chicken  cut  in  pieces  in  it ; 
leave  just  long  enough  on  the  fire  to  warm  it,  and  serve. 

If  not  a  roasted  or  broiled  chicken,  or  part  of  either, 
you  merely  warm  it  in  the  bain-marie  if  possible,  or  on 
the  fire,  and  serve  as  it  is. 

If  roasted  or  broiled,  it  is  served  in  blanquette,  thus : 

Cut  up  the  meat  in  slices,  have  in  a  stewpan  and  on  a 
good  fire  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two  walnuts ;  when 
melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  pinch  of  flour,  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon  the  while ;  then  pour  in  also,  little  by  little, 
two  gills  of  warm  broth,  same  of  boiling  water,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  two  or  three 
small  onions  fried  in  butter;  boil  fifteen  minutes.  After 
that  time  subdue  the  fire,  place  the  slices  of  chicken  in 
the  pan,  and  serve  as  it  is  when  well  warmed. 

Instead  of  onions,  slices  of  pickled  cucumbers  may  be 
used. 

Another  way. — Cut  up  the  chicken  or  part  of  it  as  for 
fricassee.  Put  a  little  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  on  the 
fire  ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  little  flour,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  same  of  chopped  mushrooms, 
stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  the  while,  two  or  three  minutes 
after  which  add  two  gills  of  white  wine,  boil  the  whole  fif- 
teen minutes;  then  subdue  the  fire,  put  the  pieces  of 
chicken  in  the  pan,  and  serve  as  it  is  when  warm. 

It  may  also,  after  it  is  cut  up,  be  served  cold,  with  an 
oil,  piquante,  or  poivrade  sauce. 

The  same,  in  Fricassee. — An  old  chicken  that  has  been 
used  to  make  broth,  either  alone  or  with  beef,  when  cool, 
or  the  next  day,  may  be  prepared  just  as  a  spring  chicken 
in  fricassee. 


256  POULTRY. 

In  Salad. — It  is  made  with  cold  chicken,  roasted  o» 
baked,  with  a  whole  one  or  part  of  it. 

Cut  all  the  meat  in  dice  and  put  it  in  a  bowl. 

Cut  just  as  much  roasted  or  baked  veal  in  dice  also, 
and  put  with  the  chicken. 

Cut  also  about  as  much  table  celery  as  chicken,  which 
put  with  the  meat  also.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar, 
and  very  little  oil ;  stir  and  mix  the  whole  well.  Add 
also  some  lettuce,  and  mix  again  gently.  Put  the  mixture 
then  on  a  platter,  making  a  small  mound  with  it ;  spread 
a  Mayonnaise-sauce  all  over  it;  decorate  with  hard-boiled 
eggs,  cut  in  four  or  eight  pieces,  lengthwise;  also  with 
centre  leaves  of  lettuce,  capers,  boiled  beets,  and  even 
slices  of  lemon. 

A  hard-boiled  egg  is  cut  across  in  two,  then  with  a 
sharp  knife  scallop  each  half,  invert  them  and  run  a  small 
skewer  through  both,  so  as  to  leave  the  smaller  end  of 
both  halves  in  the  middle  and  touching;  place  the  egg 
right  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  when  the  Mayonnaise  is 
spread  all  over ;  plant  the  centre  leaves  of  a  head  of  lettuce 
in  the  middle  of  the  upper  half  of  the  egg,  with  a  few 
capers  in  it,  and  serve. 

Some  use  mustard  with  a  chicken  salad ;  it  is  really 
wrong,  because  chickens  and  Mayonnaise-sauce  are  too 
delicate  to  use  mustard  with  them. 
CAPOK 

A  caponed  chicken  is  cleaned,  prepared,  cooked,  and 
served  in  the  same  and  every  way  as  a  common  chicken. 

A  capon  is  almost  always  fat,  larger  than  an  ordinary 
chicken,  and  has  a  more  delicate  and  tender  flesh. 

Roasted  and  served  in  the  different  ways  described  for 
chicken,  it  makes  a  recherche  dish,  also  when  stuffed  with 
thestnuts  or  truffles,  as  a  common  chicken. 


POULTRY.  257 

Boiled. — Clean  and  prepare  as  directed  above ;  rub  the 
fleshy  part  with  lemon,  envelop  it  with  slices  of  bacon, 
place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  one  sprig  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  a  small  carrot,  two  onions, 
sa_t,  and  pepper ;  cover  with  half  water  and  half  broth, 
and  set  on  a  moderate  fire.  When  cooked,  take  the 
capon  off,  place  it  on  a  dish,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place ; 
then  boil  the  sauce  till  it  is  rather  thick,  when  strain  it  on 
the  capon,  and  serve. 

The  same,  with  Rice. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as 
above,  you  place  the  capon  in  a  stewpan,  cover  it  with 
water,  add  one  glass  of  broth,  a  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  a 
sprig  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  small  carrot,  two  onions, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  ten  minutes,  then  add  also  about 
four  ounces  of  rice,  soaked  in  lukewarm  water  before  using 
it,  and  let  simmer  for  two  hours.  Take  the  capon  off, 
and  in  case  the  rice  should  not  be  found  to  be  cooked 
enough,  finish  the  cooking  of  it ;  then  take  off  clove, 
parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  carrot  and  onions,  pour  the  re- 
mainder on  the  capon,  and  serve. 
TURKEY. 

Tame  and  wild  are  prepared  and  served  alike. 

The  legs  of  a  young  hen-turkey  are  black ;  the  cock 
has  small  spurs,  and  also  black  legs. 

The  shorter  the  neck  the  better  and  fatter  the  bird. 

An  old  hen  has  red  and  rough  legs ;  the  cock  also  has 
long  spurs. 

The  fatter  they  are  the  better ;  they  cannot  be  too  fat. 
The  broader  the  breast  the  better;  the  skin  must  be 
white. 

It  is  fresh  enough  as  long  as  the  legs  are  not  stiff. 

Boiled. — Clean  and  prepare  turkey  as  directed  foi 
poultry. 


258  POULTRY. 

Put  in  a  stewpan,  large  enough  to  hold  a  turkey,  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  duck's  egg,  also  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  chopped  parsley,  same  of  green  onions,  and  four  or 
five  mushrooms ;  set  it  on  a  good  fire,  and,  as  soon  as  the 
butter  is  hot,  lay  the  turkey  in ;  turn  over  now  and  then 
till  of  a  fine  golden  color,  then  take  it  from  the  pan,  cover 
the  breast  with  slices  of  bacon  tied  with  twine,  and  put  it 
back  in  the  pan  ;  add  a  pinch  of  allspice,  six  small  onions, 
salt,  pepper,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  a  pint  of  broth ; 
simmer  till  cooked,  dish  it,  strain  the  sauce  on  it,  and 
serve.  It  takes  about  two  hours  to  cook  a  turkey  of  mid- 
dling size.  A  little  warm  broth  should  be  added,  in  case 
the  sauce  boils  away  during  the  cooking. 

Roasted. — Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  a  turkey  as 
directed  for  poultry,  and,  if  the  turkey  is  not  fat,  the  breast 
may  be  larded  with  salt  pork.  Place  it  on  the  spit  be- 
fore a  sharp  fire,  basting  often  with  melted  butter  at  first, 
and  then  with  the  drippings.  It  may  be  enveloped  in 
buttered  paper  and  tied  with  twine  before  placing  it  on 
the  spit ;  the  paper  is  removed  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  be- 
fore taking  from  the  fire  ;  serve  with  the  gravy,  after  hav- 
ing skimmed  the  fat  off 

Some  fresh  water-cress  is  placed  all  around  it,  and  on 
which  you  sprinkle  vinegar  or  lemon-juice. 

A  turkey  may  be  served  in  every  way  as  a  roasted 
chicken — with  sauces,  garnitures,  and  decorated  with 
skewers. 

Baked. — When  cleaned,  prepared,  and  trussed,  put  the 
turkey  in  a  baking-pan,  spread  a  little  butter  on  it,  put  a 
little  cold  water  in  the  pan,  the  depth  of  about  two-eighths 
of  an  inch,  sprinkle  salt  all  over,  place  a  piece  of  buttered 
paper  on  it,  and  put  in  a  quick  oven.  Baste  often  and 
turn  the  bird  over  and  round,  if  necessary.  It  takes  from 


POULTRY.  259 

one  hour  and  a  half  to  two  hoars  to  cook  a  turkey,  ac- 
cording to  size,  quality,  and  also  according  to  the  degree 
of  heat. 

It  is  served  with  the  gravy  only,  after  having  removed 
the  fat,  or  with  sauces,  garnitures,  and  decorations,  de- 
scribed for  roasted  chicken. 

Oyster-Sauce. — When  roasted  or  baked  as  directed, 
serve  warm  with  an  oyster-sauce. 

With  Currant  Jelly. — Roast  or  bake  it,  and  then  serve 
it  with  currant-jelly. 

It  is  also  served  with  a  cranberry-sauce. 

Stewed. — An  old  turkey  is  more  tender  stewed  than 
cooked  in  any  other  way. 

The  fleshy  parts  may  be  larded  with  salt  pork,  if  found 
too  lean. 

Put  in  a  large  stew-kettle  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut 
in  slices,  four  ounces  of  knuckle  of  veal,  three  sprigs  of 
parsley,  two  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  six  small  onions,  one 
carrot,  cut  in  four  pieces,  three  cloves,  cue  clove  of  garlic, 
salt,  pepper,  and  then  the  turkey ;  wet  with  a  pint  of 
white  wine,  same  of  broth,  cover  as  nearly  air-tight  as 
you  can,  place  in  a  moderately  heated  oven  or  on  a 
moderate  fire,  let  simmer  (not  boil)  about  two  hours  and 
a  half,  then  turn  it  over,  put  back  on  the  fire  or  in  the 
oven  for  another  two  hours  and  a  half,  after  which  dish 
the  turkey ;  strain  the  sauce  and  put  it  back  on  the  fire 
to  reduce  it  to  a  jelly,  which  you  spread  on  it,  and  serve. 

Many  connoisseurs  prefer  the  turkey  served  thus  when 
cold ;  it  does  not  cost  any  thing  to  try  it,  and  it  is  very 
handy  for  a  grand  dinner,  as  it  may  be  prepared  one  or 
two  days  in  advance,  and  is  just  as  good,  if  kept  in  a 
refrigerator. 

Stuffed  with  Chestnuts. — Roast  chestnuts  enough  to 


260  POULTRY. 

fill  the  bird.  Skin  them  and  remove  also  the  white  skin 
under  the  outer  one.  Fill  the  turkey  with  them,  aftei 
having  cleaned  and  prepared  it ;  when  about  half  full,  put 
in  it  also  from  four  to  six  ounces  of  butter;  finish  the 
filling  with  chestnuts ;  sew  it  up,  truss  it  as  directed,  and 
roast  or  bake  it.  Serve  with  the  gravy  only. 

Stuffed  with  Truffles. — Chop  fine  about  four  ounces  of 
truffles,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  about  a  pound  of 
salt  pork  cut  in  dice ;  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire ;  add  salt, 
pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  bay-leaf,  a  pinch  of  allspice, 
and  a  pinch  of  dried  thyme;  when  hot,  add  also  about 
two  pounds  of  truffles,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  tossing  now 
and  then,  and  take  from  the  fire.  When  nearly  cool,  put 
the  whole  in  the  turkey  and  sew  it  up ;  leave  it  thus,  if 
fresh,  four  days  in  winter  and  one  or  two  in  summer ;  if 
not  fresh,  leave  it  a  shorter  time. 

JRoast  or  bake  it  as  directed  above,  and  serve  with  the 
gravy,  freed  from  the  fat  part.  This  dish  is  considered  ex- 
quisite by  epicures. 

Stuffed  with  Sausage-meat. — Proceed  as  for  chicken 
stuffed,  in  every  particular. 

With  Salt  Pork. — Place  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  on 
the  breast  of  a  prepared  turkey,  covering  it  entirely,  and 
fastening  the  slices  with  twine ;  then  the  turkey  is  roasted 
or  baked,  and  served  with  the  gravy.  The  slices  may  be 
removed  a  little  before  taking  from  the  fire,  in  order  to 
color  the  meat. 

Boned. — Buy  a  good  turkey,  neither  too  old  nor  too 
fat,  and  picked  dry.  Singe  the  bird,  but  do  not  draw  it. 
Cut  the  neck  off  about  one  inch  and  a  half  from  the  body. 
Cut  also  the  wings  off  just  above  the  second  joint,  and 
the  legs  just  above  the  first  joint ;  the  third  joint  is  the 
one  nearest  the  body.  Split  the  skin  from  the  end  of  the 


POULTRY.  261 

neck  to  the  rump ;  use  a  small  sharp-pointed  knife ;  com- 
mence to  run  the  knife  between  the  bones  and  flesh,  on 
one  side,  till  you  come  to  the  third  joint  of  the  wings  and 
legs.  By  twisting  and  raising  both  wing  and  leg,  but  one. 
at  a  time,  you  easily  crack  the  joint,  and  then  separate  it 
from  the  body  with  the  knife.  Continue  to  run  the  knife 
between  the  bones  and  flesh,  on  the  same  side,  till  you 
come  to  the  breast-bone.  Do  the  same  on  the  other  side. 
Pull  out  the  crop  and  cut  off  the  rump  from  the  body,  but 
without  touching  the  skin,  as  the  rump  must  come  off  with 
the  skin  and  flesh.  Then  by  taking  hold  of  the  bird  by 
the  neck  with  the  left  hand,  and  pulling  the  skin  gently 
down  with  the  right,  you  partly  uncover  the  upper  part 
of  the  breast-bone ;  then  again  run  the  knife  between  that 
bone  and  the  flesh,  on  both  sides,  till  you  come  nearly  to 
the  end  or  edge  of  the  bone.  Then  lay  the  bird  on  ite 
back,  have  somebody  to  take  hold  of  it  by  the  neck,  hav- 
ing the  breast  of  the  bird  toward  you.  All  along  the  edge 
of  the  breast-bone  there  is  no  flesh  between  the  bone  and 
the  skin.  The  bird  being  held  as  described  above,  take 
hold  of  the  skin  of  the  neck  with  your  left  hand,  pulling 
gently  downward,  and  with  the  knife  detaching  the  skin 
carefully  from  the  bone,  the  carcass  coming  off  whole. 
Place  the  bird  on  the  table,  the  inside  up,  pull  out  the 
bones  of  the  wings  and  legs,  scraping  the  flesh  all  around 
so  as  to  leave  it  attached  to  the  rest ;  pull  or  scrape  off  all 
the  tendons  of  the  legs;  push  legs  and  wings  inside  the 
bird ;  see  that  the  rump  is  clean ;  cut  off  the  ring  under 
it  if  necessary.  We  warrant  that  anybody,  with  an  ordi 
nary  amount  of  natural  capacity,  can  bone  a  turkey  or 
other  bird  by  following  our  directions  with  care.  We 
recommend  persons  doing  it  for  the  first  time  not  to 
attempt  to  do  it  fast.  Now  have  at  hand  about  two  pounds 


262  POULTRY. 

of  sausage-meat  seasoned  as  directed,  two  pounds  of  boiled 
ham,  half  a  dozen  boiled  sheep's  tongues  or  a  smoked 
beef  tongue  (but  really  the  former  is  better),  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  salt  pork,  and  half  a  pound  of  truffles  sliced 
(the  latter  if  handy  and  if  liked).  Cut  the  ham,  tongues, 
and  salt  pork  in  strips  about  four  inches  long,  one  inch 
broad,  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Spread  the  bird 
on  the  table,  the  inside  up  and  the  rump  toward  you ; 
salt  and  pepper  it ;  place  three  or  four  slices  of  salt  pork 
here  and  there  on  it,  then  a  layer  of  sausage-meat,  strips 
of  ham  and  tongue  and  salt  pork  alternately  on  the  sau- 
sage-meat, slices  of  truffles  if  used,  again  sausage-meat, 
ham,  etc.,  till  there  is  enough  to  fill  the  bird  well ;  that  is, 
by  bringing  the  two  sides  of  the  skin  together,  giving  the 
bird  a  round  form,  it  is  perfectly  full.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  exact  proportions ;  it  depends  not  only  on  the  size  of 
the  bird,  but  also  on  the  quality  and  degree  of  fatness  of 
the  bird.  In  two  of  the  same  weight,  one  may  require 
more  than  the  other  to  fill  it.  When  filled,  and  when  the 
two  sides  of  the  skin  are  brought  together  as  described 
above,  sew  up  the  cut  with  a  trussing-needle  and  twine. 
Wrap  up  the  bird  tightly  in  a  towel,  tie  the  towel  with  a 
string,  and  run  the  string  all  around  the  towel  to  prevent 
it  from  opening  at  all.  Take  a  kettle  or  saucepan  of  an 
oval  shape  and  large  enough  to  hold  the  bird,  put  enough 
cold  water  in  it  to  cover  the  bird,  also  all  the  bones  of  the 
bird  (broken  in  pieces),  a  small  piece  of  lean  beef,  say  one 
pound,  a  few  stalks  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  cloves, 
two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  bay-leaf,  twelve  pepper-corns,  a 
middling-sized  carrot  sliced,  half  a  turnip,  and  salt.  Set 
on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boiling  put  the  bird  in ;  boil 
gently  for  about  three  hours  if  it  is  a  turkey  of  middling 
size,  two  hours  for  a  middling-sized  chicken.  When  done 


POULTRY.  263 

it  partly  floats ;  that  is,  the  upper  part  is  above  the  liquor. 
Take  it  from  the  pan,  take  the  towel  off  and  rinse  it  in 
cold  water ;  wrap  the  bird  up  in  the  towel  again  and  in 
the  same  way  as  before ;  place  it  on  a  large  dish,  with  the 
seam  or  back  under ;  put  another  plate  or  dish  over  it  with 
a  weight  on  it,  and  leave  thus  overnight  in  a  cool  place. 
The  next  morning  the  bird  will  be  perfectly  cold  and 
rather  flattened ;  then  remove  the  towel,  also  the  twine 
with  which  it  has  been  sewed,  place  it  on  the  dish  on 
which  it  is  to  be  served,  the  breast  upward ;  glaze  it  with 
essence  of  beef  or  glace ;  decorate  with  meat-jelly,  and 
serve. 

How  to  decorate  with  Jelly. — When  the  jelly  is  con- 
gealed and  can  be  cut  with  a  knife,  chop  some  of  it  on  a 
coarse  towel  and  put  it  all  around  the  bird,  about  half 
an  inch  thick ;  cut  some  in  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness ;  cut  these  again  with  paste-cutters  in 
different  shapes,  according  to  fancy,  and  place  it  over  the 
bird,  also  according  to  fancy ;  again  cut  some  of  it  in  slices 
about  one  inch  broad,  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  and  of 
any  length,  and  cut  out  of  these  last  ones  pieces  of  a 
triangular  shape,  which  put  all  around  the  border  of  the 
dish,  placed  so  that  one  point  of  each  piece  is  turned 
toward  the  edge  of  the  dish  and  the  two  other  points 
touch  the  other  pieces  on  both  sides ;  then  you  have  an 
indented  border  of  jelly.  When  the  jelly  is  fancifully  and 
tastefully  arranged,  it  makes  a  sightly  dish. 

It  is  always  served  cold  for  breakfast,  lunch,  or  supper. 

In  summer  the  jelly  melts,  and  cannot  be  used  as  a 
decoration.  A  boned  bird  is  then  served  without  jelly. 
The  bird  is  cut  in  slices,  and  some  jelly  is  served  with  each 
slice. 

Cold. — A  turkey,  being  a  large  bird,  is  seldom  entirely 


264  POULTRY. 

eaten  the  day  it  is  served,  and  very  often  more  than  half 
of  it  is  left  for  the  next  day.  What  is  left  may  be  pre- 
pared in  different  ways. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Cut  the  flesh  in  slices  and  serve  them 
with  a  vinaigrette.  It  is  not  understood  here  for  a  boned 
turkey,  which  is  always  eaten  cold,  but  either  a  roasted, 
baked,  stewed,  or  stuffed  turkey. 

In  Croquettes. — Proceed  in  every  particular  as  for 
chicken  croquettes. 

In  Salad. — A  salad  of  turkey  is  made  also  exactly  the 
same  as  a  salad  of  chicken,  with  cold  meat.  It  is  covered 
with  a  Mayonnaise-sauce  and  decorated  in  the  same  way. 

Besides  the  above  ways  of  preparing  cold  turkey,  it 
may  also  be  prepared  as  directed  for  cold  chicken  in 
general. 

A  caponed  turkey  is  prepared  as  a  caponed  chicken, 
boiled  or  with  rice ;  and  also  like  a  turkey,  as  described 
in  the  above  receipts.  They  are  generally  larger,  fatter, 
and  more  tender  and  juicy  than  others.  They  are  very 
much  appreciated  here,  and  every  year  more  and  more  are 
supplied,  and,  as  in  Europe,  the  greater  the  supply  the 
better  the  quality.  There  is  a  ready  market  for  caponed 
turkeys  in  all  the  large  cities  of  the  United  States,  and 
they  command  a  high  price. 

DUCKS. 

Ducks  and  ducklings,  tame  and  wild,  are  prepared 
alike.  To  be  good,  a  duck  must  be  fat,  be  it  a  canvas- 
back,  gadwell,  black-duck,  garganey,  poachard,  wood-duck, 
pintail,  shoveller,  spirit-duck,  summer-duck,  teal,  widgeon, 
thelldrake,  or  any  other. 

How  to  select. — A  young  duck  has  the  lower  part  of 
the  legs  soft,  and  the  skin  between  the  claws  soft  also ; 


POULTRY.  HOC 

you  will  also  know  if  it  is  young  by  taking  hold  of  it  by 
the  bill  (the  under  bill  only),  if  it  breaks  or  bends,  the 
duck  is  young. 

If  the  breast  of  the  duck  is  hard  and  thick,  it  is  fresh 
enough. 

How  to  prepare. — A  duck  is  cleaned  and  prepared  as 
directed  for  poultry. 

Roasted. — Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  the  duck  as  a 
chicken,  with  the  exception  that  the  rump  is  pushed  inside ; 
the  duck  being  much  longer  than  a  chicken,  it  is  more 
sightly  when  so  trussed. 

Place  inside  of  the  duck  two  sage-leaves,  two  bay- 
leaves,  and  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  and  leave  it  thus  in  a  cool 
place  for  two  or  three  hours,  and  then  roast  it  as  directed 
for  chicken. 

When  roasted,  serve  it  with  any  of  the  following  gar- 
nitures :  cabbage,  cauliflower,  Macedoine,  onion,  or  truffles. 

The  fatty  part  of  the  gravy  or  drippings  must  be  care- 
fully and  totally  removed  before  turning  it  over  the  duck 
and  garniture.  It  takes  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to 
roast. 

Baked. — When  cleaned,  prepared,  and  trussed  as  di- 
rected for  turkeys  and  chickens,  put  the  duck  in  a  bake- 
pan,  salt  and  pepper  it,  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with 
cold  water,  and  place  it  in  a  rather  quick  oven. 

A  duck,  being  generally  very  fat,  requires  to  be  turned 
over  and  over  several  times  and  to  be  basted  very  often. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  cover  it  with  buttered  paper.  In 
case  there  is  much  fat  in  the  pan,  remove  it  while  it  ia 
cooking. 

It  is  served  as  directed  for  roast  duck,  with  garnitures. 

When  roasted  or  baked,  it  is  also  served  with  apple 
or  cranberry-sauce,  or  with  currant-jelly. 
12 


266  POULTRY. 

With  Peas.— Cut  in  dice  about  one  ounce  of  salt  porfc 
and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and,  as  soon 
as  the  butter  is  melted,  brown  in  it  a  duck  trussed  as 
directed  and  take  from  the  fire.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  and  mix  it  cold  with  a  table&poonful  of  flour, 
set  it  on  the  fire,  and,  when  the  butter  is  melted,  put  the 
duck  in  with  about  a  quart  of  green  peas,  blanched  for 
one  or  two  minutes  only ;  add  about  a  pint  of  water  or  of 
broth,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  three  or  four 
stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  one  clove, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  gently  till  the  whole  is  cooked,  and 
serve  warm. 

Eemove  all  the  fat  carefully  before  serving. 

If  the  water  should  boil  away  while  it  is  cooking,  add 
a  little  more. 

With  Oranges. — Eoast  or  bake  a  young  duck  as 
directed,  and  serve  it  with  carpels  of  orange  all  around ; 
and  sprinkle  some  orange-juice  all  over  just  before  serv- 
ing it. 

With  Olives. — Roast  or  bake  the  duck  as  directed. 
When  done,  turn  the  gravy  into  a  small  saucepan  with 
about  two  dozen  olives ;  stir  gently,  and  keep  on  the  fire 
for  about  five  minutes.  Dish  the  duck,  place  the  olives 
all  around ;  turn  the  gravy  over  the  whole,  and  serve 
warm. 

Saute,  served  with  a  Border. — When  cleaned  and  cut 
in  eight  pieces  as  directed,  set  it  on  the  fire  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  stir  occasionally  till  turning  brown,  then 
pour  off  the  fat  from  the  saucepan,  add  broth  enough  just 
to  cover  the  pieces  of  duck ;  also  one  onion  with  a  clove 
stuck  in  it,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  tied  with  twine  and 
composed  of  four  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  and  a 
bay-leaf,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  gently  till  done.  Place  the 


POULTRY.  267 

pieces  of  duck  inside  of  a  border  of  rice,  strain  the  sauce 
over  the  duck  only,  and  serve  hot 

The  rice  must  be  cooked,  moulded,  and  placed  on  the 
dish  while  the  duck  is  cooking,  so  as  to  serve  the  whole 
warm.  (See  RICE  IN  BORDER.) 

To  cut. — A  duck  is  generally  cut  in  eight  pieces,  the 
two  legs  and  wings,  the  breast  in  two,  and  the  back-bone 
in  two. 

With  Turnips. — Truss  the  duck  as  directed  for  birds. 
Put  one  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire, 
and,  when  melted,  put  the  duck  in,  turn  over  now  and 
then  till  it  is  brown  on  every  side.  Then  add  a  piece  of 
onion  chopped  fine,  stir,  and,  when  turning  brown  also, 
add  water  enough  to  half  cover  it;  also  a  bunch  of  sea- 
sonings composed  of  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme, 
a  bay-leaf,  and  a  clove ;  boil  gently  till  done,  when  add 
salt  to  taste. 

While  the  duck  is  cooking,  cut  two  turnips  in  dice  or 
in  round  pieces  with  a  fruit-corer,  or  with  a  vegetable 
spoon,  set  them  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and  salt,  boil 
till  tender,  and  drain  them. 

Put  them  back  on  the  fire  with  the  sauce  or  gravy 
from  the  saucepan  in  which  the  duck  has  cooked,  give 
one  boil,  dish  the  duck,  place  the  turnips  around,  and 
serve. 

Another  way. — Cut  the  duck  in  pieces.  Set  a  sauce- 
pan on  the  fire  with  an  ounce  of  butter  in  it,  when  melted, 
add  half  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir,  and,  when  turning 
brown,  add  half  a  dozen  small  turnips  or  two  large  ones, 
cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon ;  stir,  and,  when  they  are  all 
browned,  take  them  off  and  brown  the  pieces  of  duck ; 
then  put  the  turnips  back  in  the  pan,  add  broth  enough 
just  to  cover  the  whole  ;  also  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 


268  POULTRY. 

of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  slove,  salt,  and  pepper  •  boil  gently 
till  cooked ;  dish  the  duck  and  turnips,  turn  the  sauce 
over  them  through  a  strainer,  and  serve  warm. 

Cold. — What  is  left  from  the  preceding  day's  dinner 
is  prepared  in  salmis. 

Very  often  a  duck  is  baked,  especially  to  make  a 
salmis  with  it.  (See  SALMIS.) 

Boned. — Bone,  fill,  cook,  and  serve  as  turkey  boned. 

Cold  duck  may  also  be  prepared  in  croquettes  and 
salad,  like  chicken. 

Stuffed. — It  is  stuffed  with  sausage-meat  and  chest- 
nuts, also  like  a  chicken. 

GEESE  AND  GOSLINGS— TAME  OR  WILD. 

A  young  goose  has  much  down  and  soft  legs  of  a  yel- 
low color ;  an  old  one  has  little  down  and  rough  legs  of  a 
reddish  color.  When  fresh,  the  legs  are  soft ;  and  stiff  and 
dry  when  not  fresh. 

Geese  and  goslings  are  prepared,  cooked,  and  served 
like  ducks,  in  the  following  ways :  roasted  and  baked,  and 
served  with  garnitures,  with  cranberry-sauce,  currant-jelly, 
apple-sauce,  with  a  border,  olives,  oranges,  peas,  or  turnips ; 
in  croquettes  and  in  salmis. 

It  is  boned,  cooked,  and  served,  like  a  boned  turkey. 

In  Civet. — Clean,  prepare,  and  cut  the  goose  in  pieces, 
removing  most  of  the  fat,  and  then  cook,  and  serve  it  like 
rabbit  in  civet. 

It  takes  a  little  longer  than  to  cook  a  rabbit,  but 
makes  a  very  good  dish. 

When  the  civet  is  properly  made,  it  does  not  taste 
like  goose. 

GUINEA-FOWLS. 

A  young  Guinea-bird  is  good,  but  an  old  one  is  hardly 
fit  to  be  eaten. 


POULTRY.  269 

Guinea-fowls  are  prepared  and  served  like  prairie-hens. 

PIGEONa 

The  stall-fed  or  squab  is  prepared  the  same  as  the 
wild  one. 

To  select. — If  the  legs  are  not  red,  they  are  young ; 
and  if  not  stiff,  they  are  fresh.  When  not  fresh,  the 
rump  is  of  a  bluish  color. 

Clean  and  prepare  them  as  directed  for  fowls. 

Broiled. — Split  the  backs  of  the  pigeons  so  as  to  open 
them,  flatten  them  a  little  with  a  chopper.  Put  two 
ounces  of  butter  (for  six  pigeons)  in  a  saucepan,  and  set 
it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  hot,  add  to  it  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  and  green  onions,  salt,  and  pepper ;  then 
the  pigeons.  When  half  cooked,  take  them  from  the  fire, 
roll  them  in  bread-crumbs,  place  them  on  the  gridiron 
and  set  on  a  moderate  fire,  turn  over  once  or  twice,  and, 
when  done,  serve  on  a  mattre  cThdtelj  piquante,  or  poi- 
ma.de  sauce. 

Another  way. — When  cleaned,  prepared,  and  split  open 
as  directed  above,  salt  and  pepper  them,  grease  them 
slightly  with  melted  butter,  by  means  of  a  brush ;  then 
broil  them  till  underdone,  and  serve  with  a  maitre  cThdtel 
sauce. 

In  Chartreuse.— A  chartreuse  with  pigeons  is  made  and 
served  as  a  chartreuse  of  prairie-hens. 

In  Papillotes. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  direct- 
ed, bake  the  pigeons  till  about  half  done,  then  split  them  in 
two,  lengthwise,  and  then  proceed  as  for  veal  cutlets  in 
papillotes. 

They  may  be  fried  with  a  little  butter,  instead  of  baked. 

With  Vegetables.— Clean  and  prepare  as  directed  for 
ooultry,  four  pigeons.  Cut  them  in  four  pieces  each. 


270  POULTEY. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  set  it  on 
the  fire ;  when  melted,  brown  the  pigeons  in  it,  and  then 
take  them  from  the  pan. 

The  pigeons  being  taken  off,  put  into  the  pan,  which 
is  kept  on  the  fire,  half  a  carrot  and  two  onions  sliced, 
half  a  turnip,  sliced  also ;  four  or  five  stalks  of  parsley,  one 
of  thyme,  one  of  celery,  a  bay-leaf,  two  cloves ;  the  latter 
five  tied  together.  Cover  the  whole  with  broth  or  water ; 
boil  gently  till  about  half  done,  then  add  the  pieces  of 
pigeons,  and  salt  and  pepper;  continue  boiling  till  the 
whole  is  done. 

Dish  the  pigeons,  throw  away  the  seasonings,  mash 
the  carrot,  onions,  and  turnips  through  a  colander,  which 
you  mix  with  the  sauce.  Place  the  mixture  around  the 
pieces  of  pigeons,  and  serve  warm. 

Stuffed. — It  is  stuffed,  cooked,  and  served  like  a  stuffed 
chicken. 

The  same,  stewed. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut  in  a  stewpan,  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  hot, 
add  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice,  then  place  in  four 
pigeons,  leave  thus  till  of  a  fine  golden  color,  and  then 
take  pigeons  and  bacon  off  the  pan.  Put  again  in  the 
stewpan  the  same  quantity  of  butter  as  before;  when 
melted,  sprinkle  in,  little  by  little,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  of  a  proper  thick- 
ness, and  of  a  brownish  color,  put  the  pigeons  and  bacon 
back  in,  add  four  small  onions,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one 
of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  pinch  of  allspice,  salt,  pepper,  half 
a  glass  of  broth,  same  of  claret  wine ;  simmer  about  an 
hour,  take  off  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  and  send  to  the 
table. 

The  same,  roasted. — Envelop  each  pigeon  in  thin  slices 
of  bacon  tied  with  twine,  place  them  on  a  spit  before  a 


POULTRY.  271 

moderate  fire,  baste  often  with  the  drippings,  and,  when 
cooked,  serve  them  with  the  gravy,  at  the  same  time 
sprinkling  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  on  them.  It  takes 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  minutes  to  roast  them. 

To  roast  or  bake  they  are  trussed  like  a  chicken,  as 
seen  in  the  cut  below.  To  carve  pigeons  is  easy,  they  are 
merely  split  in  two,  lengthwise. 


Baked. — Place  a  thin  slice  of  fat  salt  pork  or  bacon  on 
the  breast  of  each  pigeon,  after  bemg  cleaned,  prepared, 
and  salted  ;  place  them  in  a  bakepan,  on  their  back ;  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water  and  put  in  a  hot 
oven,  baste  often,  and  when  done  serve  them  with  water- 
cress and  lemon-juice. 

The  pigeons  are  placed  on  the  dish  the  same  as  they 
were  in  the  bakepan ;  place  water-cress  between  each,  also 
all  around  and  in  the  middle  of  them  ;  sprinkle  lemon-juice 
all  over,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Green  Peas. — When  cleaned  and  prepared,  truss 
the  pigeons  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  about  two 
ounces  of  butter  for  half  a  dozen,  stir  now  and  then  till 
turning  rather  brown  ail  around  and  take  off;  then  put  in 
the  saucepan  about  two  ounces  of  salt  pork  cut  in  dice, 
stir,  and,  when  partly  fried,  take  it  off  also.  The  pan  being 
etill  on  the  fire,  put  into  it  a  good  tablespooriful  of  flour, 
stir  till  it  turns  brown,  when  you  add  about  a  quart  of 
broth,  stir  and  mix ;  put  pigeons  and  salt  pork  back  into 
the  pan,  season  with  a  bunch  of  seasonings,  composed  of 


272  POULTRY. 

half  a  dozen  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  two  bay-leaves, 
a  clove,  and  one  clove  of  garlic.  Boil  gently  till  nearly 
half  done,  and  then  add  a  quart  of  green  peas,  blanched 
previously ;  boil  again  gently  till  the  \vhole  is  done ;  re. 
move  the  bunch  of  seasonings  and  the  clove  of  garlic ;  dish 
the  pigeons,  turn  the  peas  in  the  same  dish,  but  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  pigeons,  which  can  be  tastefully  placed  all 
around  the  dish ;  strain  the  sauce  over  the  whole,  and 
serve  warm. 

With  Mushrooms. — Prepare  and  truss  the  pigeons  the 
same  as  for  the  above,  and  proceed  also  as  for  the  above 
in  every  particular,  except  that  you  do  not  put  in  the 
saucepan  quite  as  much  broth,  a  pint  is  sufficient,  and  boil 
gently  till  done,  but  do  not  add  peas. 

Ten  minutes  before  taking  from  the  fire,  add  a  dozen 
mushrooms,  whole  or  sliced,  and  half  a  gill  of  claret  wine, 
if  handy. 

Dish  the  pigeons,  place  the  mushrooms  in  the  middle 
of  the  dish,  strain  the  sauce  over  the  whole,  and  serve 
warm. 

Fried. — Take  four  pigeons,  cut  each  in  four  pieces, 
put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  the 
fire ;  when  melted,  put  the  pigeons  in  with  two  or  three 
sprigs  of  parsley,  a  small  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  pinch 
of  allspice,  salt,  pepper,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth.  Take 
the  pigeons  off  when  half  cooked,  and,  as  soon  as  they  are 
cool,  dip  each  piece  in  beaten  eggs  and  roll  it  in  bread- 
crumbs. Strain  the  butter  that  may  be  left  in  the  stew- 
pan,  and  put  it  in  a  frying-pan  with  about  an  ounce  more, 
and  fry  the  birds  for  about  two  minutes ;  serve  with  water- 
cress or  parsley  all  around. 

In  Compote. — Koast  six  pigeons  as  directed.  Then  cut 
one  of  them  in  dice,  put  it  in  a  mortar  and  pound  it  Put 


POULTRY.  273 

half  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  and,  when  melted,  fry 
half  an  onion  chopped  fine  in  it ;  then  add  to  the  pounded 
pigeon  about  a  gill  of  gravy,  a  gill  of  good  broth,  salt,  pep- 
per, a  bunch  of  seasonings,  composed  of  three  stalks  of 
parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  a  clove ;  also  about 
a  gill  of  Madeira  wine  or  white  wine,  boil  gently  till  re- 
duced about  one-third,  strain.  Put  back  on  the  fire,  add 
butter,  and  when  melted  stir  and  set  it  on  the  corner  of 
the  range  to  keep  warm  while  the  rest  is  prepared.  Cut 
the  other  five  pigeons  in  two,  lengthwise.  Cut  ten  pieces 
of  bread  square,  or  of  an  oval  shape,  and  about  the  size  of 
a  half  pigeon,  fry  them  with  a  little  butter,  and  place  them 
on  a  dish.  While  the  bread  is  frying,  put  the  pigeons  in 
an  oven  to  warm  them ;  place  half  a  pigeon  on  each  slice 
of  bread,  or  one  lapping  over  the  other ;  have  the  slices 
and  pigeons  so  arranged  that  they  fill  the  dish,  leaving 
only  a  smallspace  in  the  middle,  into  which  you  pour  the 
sauce ;  serve  the  whole  hot. 

In  Crapaudine. — When  prepared,  split  open  the  backs 
of  the  pigeons ;  cut  the  legs  at  the  first  joints  and  run  them 
through  the  skin  so  that  the  ends  come  out  on  the  inside ; 
dip  the  birds  in  beaten  eggs,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
and  broil  them. 

While  they  are  broiling,  knead  butter,  chopped  parsley, 
and  lemon-juice  together ;  spread  some  on  the  pigeons 
when  they  are  dished,  and  serve  warm. 

GIBLETS. 

By  giblets  are  understood  the  gizzards,  heads,  legs, 
.ivers,  necks,  and  ends  of  the  wings  of  chickens,  ducks, 
geese,  turkeys,  and  other  birds,  tame  or  wild. 

You  begin  by  cleaning  them  well,  cut  off  the  bills, 
take  the  eyes  out,  warming  the  legs  on  live  coals,  so  that 
12* 


274  POULTRY. 

you  can  take  off  the  outer  skin  and  spurs ;  place  the  gib- 
lets in  a  tureen,  turn  boiling  water  and  a  little  salt  on  them, 
leave  them  thus  five  or  six  minutes,  then  wash  well  and 
drain  them. 

In  Fricassee. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  (the 
size  to  be  according  to  the  quantity  of  giblets  you  have), 
set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it,  little  by 
little,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  stir  the  whole  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  when  of  a  proper  thickness,  and  of  a  brownish 
color,  add  half  a  gill  of  warm  broth,  same  of  warm  water, 
a  sprig  of  parsley,  a  small  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  two 
small  onions,  salt,  and  pepper ;  then  the  giblets.  About 
half  an  hour  after  add  also  two  mushrooms,  cut  in  pieces. 
It  takes  about  two  hours  to  cook  them  properly.  Dish  the 
pieces,  strain  the  sauce,  mix  in  it  one  well-beaten  yolk  of 
an  egg,  and  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice;  pour  it  on  the 
giblets,  place  the  pieces  of  mushrooms  over  the  whole,  and 
serve. 

The  same,  steived. — Put  the  giblets  in  a  stewpan  with 
butter,  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  they  are  of  a  fine 
yellow  color,  add  one  or  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  clove  of 
garlic,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  one  clove,  half  a  bay-leaf,  two 
mushrooms  cut  in  pieces,  two  small  onions,  and  a  pinch 
of  flour ;  wet  with  broth,  let  simmer  gently  for  half  an 
hour,  and  add  also  two  parsnips  cut  in  slices,  and  pre- 
viously half  fried  in  butter ;  simmer  again  for  about  an 
hour;  dish  the  pieces  of  meat,  strain  the  sauce,  put  it 
back  on  the  fire  to  reduce  it  a  little,  pour  it  on  the  gib- 
lets, place  the  pieces  of  mushrooms  at  the  top,  and  serve 
hot 

Saute. — They  may  also  be  prepared  and  served  as  a 
chicken  sanit. 


POULTRY.  275 

ASPIC  OF  MEAT. 

Cut  four  middling-sized  onions  in  slices,  lay  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bacon  (not  smoked) ; 
then  add  about  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  each  of  the  follow- 
ing meats:  chicken,  game  (any  kind),  mutton,  and  beefj 
also  a  calf's  foot  split  in  two,  two  ounces  of  rind  of  bacon, 
two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two 
carrots  cut  in  two,  one  clove,  and  four  small  onions ;  wet 
with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and  set  on  a  brisk  fire ;  cover 
the  pan  well.  When  nearly  cooked,  take  the  grease  off 
with  a  ladle ;  add  then  boiling  water  enough  just  to  cover 
the  whole,  and  finish  the  cooking.  Strain  the  juice,  skim 
off  the  fat,  if  any,  and  let  it  cool ;  if  it  is  not  found  clear 
enough  when  strained,  beat  well  two  whites  of  eggs,  put 
them  in  the  stewpan  with  the  juice,  set  it  on  a  sharp  fire 
for  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  the  while,  and  take  from 
the  fire ;  add  to  it  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice,  and  strain 
again. 

Put  in  a  mould  some  of  the  above  juice,  about  two- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  depth ;  place  the  mould  on  ice,  and 
leave  till  the  juice  has  turned  into  a  jelly.  Lay  on  that 
jelly  some  of  the  following  meats,  free  from  bones,  and 
not  allowing  the  pieces  to  touch  the  sides  of  the  mould  : 
chicken,  game,  tongues  of  beef,  calf,  and  sheep,  of  all  or  of 
either  of  them  (the  meats  must  be  cooked  beforehand). 
Cover  the  whole  with  the  remainder  of  the  juice,  so  as  to 
have  about  the  same  thickness  at  the  top  as  at  the  bot- 
tom. Place  the  mould  in  a  refrigerator  to  cool,  and  turn 
into  a  jelly ;  then  dip  the  mould  in  very  warm  water,  turn 
over  on  a  dish,  remove  the  mould,  and  you  have  a  fine 
entree. 


GAME. 


GAME,  comparatively,  is  appreciated  only  by  a  few. 

When  the  country  was  first  settled,  every  one  was  his 
own  provider,  and  of  course  game  was  not  sent  to  a  mar- 
ket several  hundred  miles  from  the  place  where  it  was 
shot  or  caught  But  settlement  and  civilization  have  the 
same  effect  on  game  as  they  have  on  barbarians  or  savages — 
they  drive  it  away. 

Our  Northeastern  cities  are  now  supplied  by  the  West- 
ern States  with  game.  In  winter  time,  game  may  be  kept 
for  weeks  without  being  spoiled  or  losing  its  natural  flavor 
and  taste,  when  kept  where  it  is  killed ;  but  when  trans- 
ported, it  is  very  different.  To  transport  it  requires  pack- 
ing. As  soon  as  packed,  it  naturally  ferments ;  and  even 
if  packed  when  frozen,  the  middle  of  the  barrel  will  fer- 
ment and  become  injured,  if  not  entirely  rendered  unfit  for 
the  table. 

The  packing  of  game  or  poultry  in  barrels  is  a  bad 
practice.  Nothing  requires  more  ventilation  than  game 
while  being  transported.  Many  dealers  have  their  game 
sent  to  them  in  wicker-baskets  with  plenty  of  straw,  but 
the  greater  part  is  still  sent  in  barrels ;  hence  the  musty 
taste  when  cooked. 

To  keep  game  for  some  time  when  fresh,  open  the 
animal  or  bird  under  the  rump,  just  enough  to  take  the 


GAME.  277 

inside  out,  also  the  crop  of  birds,  being  very  careful  about 
the  gall-bladder ;  if  it  bursts,  it  is  better  not  to  try  to  pre- 
serve the  piece,  but  to  clean,  wash,  and  use  it  as  soon  as 
possible.  Birds  must  be  left  in  their  feathers,  and  ani- 
mals in  their  skins.  Fill  the  inside  with  dry  and  clean 
oats,  and  put  the  piece  in  a  heap  or  barrel  of  oats.  It 
will  keep  thus  for  many  days. 

Another  way  is  to  envelop  the  piece  well  in  a  towel, 
and  bury  it  in  charcoal  dust  in  a  cool  and  dry  place. 

How  to  clean  and  prepare. — Clean    and  prepare   the 
birds  as  directed  for  poultry  in  general 

After  having  carefully  skinned,  take  out  the  inside,  and 
cut  the  legs  off  at  the  first  joint  of  animals ;  wash  the 
inside  with  lukewarm  water,  and  wipe  it  dry  with  a  clean 
towel  immediately  after ;  wipe  also  the  outside,  but  do 
not  wash  it  if  possible  ;  that  is,  if  you  can  clean  it  well  by 
wiping  only. 

Wild  ducks,  geese,  pigeons,  and  turkeys,  are  prepared, 
cooked,  and  served  like  tame  ones. 

Bear-meat  and  Buffalo. — The  meat  of  ah1  large  animals 
is  better  roasted,  than  dressed  in  any  other  way.  Prepare, 
cook,  and  serve  bear  and  buffalo  meat  like  venison,  beef 
a  la  mode,  or  stewed. 

Bear-meat  has  highly  nutritive  qualities,  and  is  very 
warming. 

Buffalo-steaks  are  said  to  be  better  broiled  on  cinders 
without  a  gridiron,  than  on  or  before  coals  with  one  ;  that 
is,  Indian  fashion  and  even  hunters'  fashion. 

Indians  often  use  wood-ashes  as  a  substitute  for  salt, 
and  never  use  salt  with  buffalo-meat;  but  their  liking  or 
preference  comes  from  their  habit  of  invariably  broiling 
buffalo-meat  on  wood  cinders  or  buffalo-chips. 

Bear-hams,  so  well  appreciated  everywhere,  are  pie- 


278  GAME. 

pared  and  served  like  common  hams.  A  bear-ham,  taste- 
fully decorated,  is  considered  a  recherche  dish  at  supper  for 
evening  parties. 

Blackbird,  Bobolink,  and  Small  Birds. — The  cut  below 
represents  six  small  birds  on  the  spit,  ready  for  roasting. 
When  the  birds  are  prepared,  cut  off  the  ends  of  the  wings 
and  the  legs  above  the  first  joint.  Instead  of  cutting  the 
legs  above  the  first  joint,  the  ends  of  the  claws  only  may 
be  cut  off,  according  to  taste.  Cut  thin  slices  of  fat 
salt  pork,  of  a  proper  size  to  cover  the  breast  of  the  bird ; 
place  the  slice  on  the  breast  of  it,  run  a  skewer  through 
the  middle  of  the  bird,  so  that  it  will  run  through  the  two 
ends  of  the  slice  of  salt  pork  also,  as  seen  in  the  cut. 

Have  a  skewer,  or  merely  a  piece  of  wire,  long  enough 
to  hold  six  birds ;  fix  the  skewer  on  the  spit,  and  roast. 

When  the  six  birds  are  on  the  skewer,  fasten  them 
with  twine,  to  prevent  them  from  turning  round,  as  seen 
in  the  cut. 


Small  birds  are  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed  for 
poultry,  but  they  are  not  trussed,  their  legs  being  tied 
while  tying  the  salt  pork.  While  roasting,  they  are  basted 
often  with  the  drippings.  Some  water-cress  and  lemon- 
juice  sprinkled  upon  them  may  be  served  with  the  birds. 
The  twine  is  removed  before  serving,  and  they  must  be 
served  hot ;  if  allowed  to  cool  at  all,  they  lose  their  taste. 
It  takes  from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  to  roast. 

Baked. — Prepare  them  exactly  as  for  roasting :  place 
the  wire  or  skewer  across  a  baking-pan,  turn  them  round 


GAME.  2T9 

baste  often ;  serve  also  as  above,  with  the  gravy,  and 
with  or  without  water-cress. 

The  bobolink,  reed-bird,  and  rice-bird  are  the  same ;  they 
are  called  under  these  different  names  at  different  seasons 
and  in  different  localities  ;  it  is  the  American  ortolan,  the 
most  delicate  of  small  birds ;  the  robin  comes  next. 

To  eat  it  a  la  JBrillat-Savarin.—Tske  hold  of  the  bird 
by  the  bill;  open  your  mouth  wide  enough  to  introduce 
the  whole  bird  into  it  easily ;  then  shut  it,  at  the  same 
time  biting  off  the  bill  just  at  its  base ;  chew  properly  and 
swallow. 

While  the  birds  are  roasting  or  baking,  place  as  many 
small  slices  of  bread  in  the  dripping  or  baking  pan,  and 
serve  a  bird  over  each  slice.  Cut  the  slices  either  square, 
round,  or  oval,  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
and  large  enough  to  hold  the  bird. 

Hunter-like. — Prepare  small  birds  as  described  for 
quails,  hunter-like ;  it  makes  an  excellent  dish. 

In  Salmis. — Roasted  or  baked  small  birds  can  be  pre- 
pared in  salmis  when  cold.  Many  amateurs  prefer  small 
birds  not  drawn ;  that  is,  the  crop  only  is  taken  off,  but 
nothing  of  the  inside  is  disturbed ;  they  pretend  that  they 
have  a  better  taste  when  cooked  thus ;  of  course,  every 
one  to  his  taste. 

High-holders,  lapwings,  meadow-larks,  plovers,  rails, 
robins,  snipes,  thrushes,  woodcocks,  woodpeckers,  and  yellow- 
birds  are  prepared  as  above. 

Small  birds  have  a  better  flavor  when  cooked  after 
being  somewhat  seasoned  than  when  cooked  fresh,  but  they 
must  not  be  tainted.  As  long  as  the  rump  is  stiff,  they 
are  good ;  if  soft,  they  must  be  examined  carefully,  as  they 
might  be  tainted.  When  young,  there  is  no  stiffness  in 
the  legs.  Small  birds  are  generally  put  by  the  half  dozen 


280  GAME. 

on  the  same  skewer,  as  seen  in  the  cut  (p.  278) ;  but 
when  a  little  larger,  like  the  robin  or  plover,  they  may  be 
trussed  as  directed  for  snipes. 

Grouse  or  HeathcocJc. — These  are  good  as  long  as  the 
legs  are  flexible  ;  if  not,  examine  them  carefully,  they  might 
be  rotten  inside. 

Lard  them  well,  envelop  each  in  buttered  paper,  and 
place  on  the  spit  before  a  good  fire  ;  baste  often,  remove 
the  paper  after  twenty  or  twenty-five  minutes ;  leave  two 
or  three  minutes  more,  basting  continually  with  the  drip- 
pings ;  dish  the  birds ;  mix  with  the  drippings  a  few  drops 
of  lemon-juice,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  with 
the  birds. 

Baked. — Lard  the  bird  as  for  roasting;  that  is,  the 
fleshy  parts  only  are  larded  with  salt  pork,  then  truss  them 
as  directed  for  chicken,  place  them  in  a  baking-pan,  cover 
the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water,  put  a  piece  of  but- 
tered paper  on  each  bird,  place  in  a  hot  oven,  baste  often 
till  done.  Serve  with  the  gravy  some  water-cress,  and 
lemon-juice,  or  vinegar. 

It  is  also  prepared,  cooked,  and  served  in  the  different 
ways  described  for  prairie-hen,  either  in  chartreuse,  salmis, 
salad,  or  any  other  way. 

Hare. — No  hares  have  yet  been  found  in  the  United 
States,  except  in  California,  The  reported  hare  of  the  West- 
ern prairies  is,  as  far  as  known,  a  species  of  rabbit.  That 
found  in  the  Eastern  markets  comes  from  Canada  ind  Eu- 
rope. The  Canadian  hare  is  very  inferior  in  quality. 

To  select. — When  young  it  has  rather  soft  paws,  and 
not  much  opened,  and  also  soft  ears ;  but  if  old,  the  pawa 
are  hard  and  much  worn,  and  the  ears  stiff  and  hard.  If 
fresh,  the  body  is  stiff;  it  is  soft,  and  the  flesh  is  nearly 
black,  if  tainted.  Save  the  blood  as  much  as  possible  ;  it 
improves  the  sauce  very  much. 


GAME.  281 

In  Civet. — When  the  hare  is  cleaned  as  directed  for 
game,  cut  in  pieces.  Have  in  a  saucepan  and  on  a  good 
fire  two  ounces  of  butter  and  one  of  salt  pork  cut  in  dice. 
Stir,  and  when  the  salt  pork  is  fried  take  it  off  the  pan,  and 
put  the  pieces  of  hare  in  it ;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
now  and  then,  till  of  a  fine  golden  color;  then  sprin- 
kle on  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  add  ten  small  onions,  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  a  hay- 
leaf,  salt,  pepper,  about  a  pint  of  claret  wine,  same  of 
broth,  three  or  four  mushrooms,  and  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg ;  boil  gently  till  done  ;  dish  the  pieces  of  hare ;  throw 
away  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaf,  and  garlic ;  mix  the  blood  of 
the  hare,  if  any,  in  the  sauce,  boil  it  about  ten  minutes 
longer,  turn  it  on  the  hare,  and  serve  warm. 

Many  epicures  like  a  civet  better  when  prepared  one 
or  two  days  in  advance,  and  only  wanned  before  serving. 
When  the  civet  is  done,  and  ready  to  serve,  place  the  dish 
in  a  cool,  dry  place,  and  when  you  want  to  eat  the  civet, 
place  the  dish  in  a  bain-marie,  or  in  an  oven,  and  serve 
when  warm. 

The  same,  roasted. — Lard  the  hare  well ;  place  it  on 
the  spit  before  a  good  fire  ;  baste  often  with  the  drippings, 
and  when  properly  cooked  serve  it  with  the  following 
sauce  :  put  in  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  wal- 
nut, and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  put  in  it  the 
hare's  liver  well  pounded,  then  the  blood,  if  any,  also  the 
drippings,  salt,  pepper,  a  tablespoonful  of  white  wine,  same 
of  broth,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  vinegar ;  when  of  a  proper 
thickness,  serve  with  the  hare. 

It  takes  about  an  hour  to  roast  it  welL 

In  a  small  family,  the  hind  part  is  roasted,  and  the  fore 
part  of  the  hare  is  dressed  in  civet. 

Baked. — Lard  it  with  salt  pork  and  bake  it,  basting 
often :  serve  in  the  same  way  as  a  roasted  one. 


282  GAME. 

The  same,  next  day. — If  any  is  left  from  the  day  before, 
warm  it  an:1  serve,  if  in  civet;  cut  in  slices  and  serve  cold, 
with  an  oil-sauce,  if  roasted. 

Leveret. — Cook  and  serve  like  a  hare. 

A  leveret  may  also  be  sauted  like  a  chicken. 

Pheasant,  to  select. — When  young,  the  claws  are  short 
and  round  at  the  end,  while  they  are  long  and  sharp  when 
old.  They  are  not  fresh  when  the  rump  is  of  a  bluish 
color,  but  some  amateurs  like  them  then ;  in  that  state, 
they  are  said  to  have  a  venison  taste.  Some  hang  the 
bird  by  the  feathers  of  the  tail  and  leave  it  so  till  it  falls ; 
then  they  prepare  and  eat  it.  It  does  not  fall  until 
very  "  high,"  or  rather  when  tainted.  They  ought  not  to 
be  cooked  when  very  fresh,  as  they  have  not  as  delicate  a 
taste  then  as  when  rather  "  high." 

Pheasants  are  prepared,  cooked,  and  served  like  prairie- 
birds  in  every  way. 

Crane,  Ostrich,  Peacock,  Pelican,  or  other  Large  Birds. 
— These  birds  are  seldom  eaten.  When  old,  they  are  tough, 
and  of  a  disagroeable  taste.  When  young,  they  are  not 
so  bad,  and  may  be  prepared  like  a  turkey  stuffed  or  stewed. 

Prairie-bird,  Prairie-hen,  and  Partridge.  —  An  old 
prairie-hen  has  a  white  bih1  and  bluish  legs ;  when  young, 
the  bill  is  of  a  rather  dark-gray  color,  and  the  legs  are 
yellowish.  As  long  as  the  rump  does  not  turn  bluish,  it 
is  fresh  enough. 

To  prepare. — Clean  and  prepare  a  prairie-hen  as  di- 
rected for  poultry  in  general. 

Baked. — Clean  and  prepare  the  bird  as  directed,  then 
cut  off  the  claws  to  about  half  their  length.  Truss  the 
prairie-hen  as  directed  for  chicken,  and  then  cover  its  breast 
with  a  thin  slice  of  fat  salt  pork,  but  do  not  cover  the  back 
of  the  bird.  Tie  the  salt  pork  with"  twine.  Place  the 


GAME.  283 

prairie-hen  on  its  back  in  the  baking-pan,  with  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut  on  it ;  set  it  in  a  quick  oven 
(about  400  deg.  Fahr.),  baste  often,  and  serve  when  rather 
underdone.  While  the  bird  is  baking,  prepare  some  fresh 
water-cress,  place  some  of  it  all  around  the  bird;  mix 
lemon-juice  with  the  gravy  and  turn  it  over  the  bird  and 
water-cress,  and  serve  warm.  It  may  also  be  served  after 
being  baked,  the  same  as  directed  for  a  roasted  one. 

Broiled. — Clean  and  prepare  as  directed,  then  split  the 
back  of  the  prairie-hen  so  as  to  open  it ;  salt,  pepper,  and 
butter  it  by  means  of  a  brush ;  place  it  on  the  gridiron 
over  a  good  fire ;  turn  over  three  or  four  times ;  as  soon 
as  done,  sprinkle  on  it  a  little  allspice,  dish  the  bird,  spread 
a  maitre  cThotel  sauce  on  it,  and  serve  warm.  It  is  also 
served  with  a  piquante,  poivrade,  or  ravigote  sattce. 

Another  way. — Split  the  prairie-hen  in  two  lengthwise 
so  as  to  make  two  equal  pieces.  Put  one  ounce  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  lay 
the  two  halves  of  the  bird  in ;  turn  over  and  leave  them 
till  a  little  more  than  half  cooked,  when  take  them  off. 
Envelop  each  piece  in  buttered  paper,  place  them  on  the 
gridiron,  and  set  it  on  a  rather  brisk  fire  for  about  fifteen 
minutes,  turning  over  once  only,  and  serve  with  the  fol- 
lowing sauce :  Put  with  the  butter  in  the  pan  in  which 
was  the  bird,  about  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
same  of  chopped  mushrooms,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of 
allspice ;  sprinkle  in  and  stir  at  the  same  time  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  flour ;  add  a  gill  of  white  wine,  same  of  broth  ;  boil 
gently  till  of  a  proper  thickness,  and  serve  the  bird  with 
it,  either  on  the  same  dish  or  separately.  Serve  as  warm 
as  possible. 

With  Cabbage. — Clean  and  truss  the  prairie-chicken 
as  directed  for  birds ;  fry  it  a  little  with  butter,  just  enough 


284  GAME. 

to  color  it ;  then  place  a  cabbage,  previously  blanched,  cut 
in  four  pieces,  all  around  it ;  also  about  four  ounces  of  lean 
salt  pork,  one  onion  whole ;  just  cover  the  whole  with  cold 
water  (it  requires  about  one  pint  of  it  if  the  pan  is  of  a 
proper  size) ;  when  the  cabbage  is  boiled  down,  baste  oc- 
casionally with  the  juice,  and  if  it  boils  away  add  a  little 
broth  or  water ;  keep  enough  to  baste  till  done,  when  dish 
the  prairie-chicken  with  the  cabbage  around,  also  the  salt 
pork  if  liked;  turn  the  juice  ah1  over  through  a  strainer. 
In  case  it  is  not  salt  enough,  add  salt  while  basting.  The 
flesh  of  a  prairie-chicken  is  naturally  dry,  and  by  being 
cooked  with  cabbage  it  is  kept  moist  all  the  time  and  is 
juicy  when  done.  For  those  who  have  no  prejudice  against 
cabbage,  it  is  the  best  way  to  prepare  a  prairie-bird. 

Another  way. — Lard  two  prairie-birds  as  directed  for 
larding,  after  being  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed.  Put 
in  a  stewpan  half  a  pound  of  bacon  cut  in  slices,  with  four 
onions,  two  carrots  cut  in  pieces,  a  small  dried  or  Bologna 
sausage,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  two  cloves,  a 
bay-leaf,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  cabbage  cut  rather 
fine,  and  which  is  to  be  previously  thrown  in  boiling 
water  and  boiled  ten  minutes  ;  then  the  two  partridges  or 
prairie-hens ;  place  over  the  whole  four  ounces  of  bacon 
cut  in  thin  slices,  cover  with  broth,  set  the  pan  on  a  sharp 
fire,  and  when  it  has  boiled  about  fifteen  minutes,  subdue 
the  fire,  or  put  the  pan  in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  sim- 
mer about  two  hours  if  the  partridges  are  old,  and  one 
hour  if  they  are  young ;  then  take  from  the  fire,  place  the 
partridges  on  a  dish  with  the  sausage  cut  in  pieces  around 
them,  drain  the  cabbage  and  put  it  on  another  dish  with 
the  bacon,  strain  the  sauce  on  both  dishes,  and  serve. 

In  Chartreuse. — It  is  made  in  a  mould  for  Charlotte 
russe,  or  in  one  like  the  cut  following.  Clean  the  prairie- 


GAME.  285 

ften  as  directed  for  birds ;  put  it  in  a  b&king-pan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter  spread  on  it,  also  salt  and  pepper,  and  a 
gill  of  cold  water  in  the  pan,  and  bake  till  underdone, 
when  cut  it  in  seven  pieces,  making  three  slices  in  the 
breast,  lengthwise.  Peel  and  slice  two  carrots  and  two 
turnips;  cut  the  slices  about  an  inch  thick;  then  cut  again 
in  small  round  pieces,  with  a  fruit-corer,  about  half  an 
inch  in  diameter ;  set  them  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and 
salt,  boil  gently  till  done,  drain  and  turn  immediately  in 
cold  water,  and  they  are  ready  to  be  used.  Put  a  small 
head  of  cabbage  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  lean 
salt  pork,  just  cover  it  with  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  till 
done.  The  prairie-hen,  carrots,  and  turnips,  and  the  cab- 
bage, may  be  cooked  at  the  same  time,  but  separately,  as 
directed.  When  the  cabbage  is  done,  turn  it  into  a  col- 
ander, cut  it  rather  fine  with  a  spoon,  press  gently  on  it 
to  get  the  water  out  as  much  as  possible  without  mash- 
ing it  through  the  colander,  and  it  is  ready  to  be  used. 
Butter  the  mould  well ;  place  slices  of  boiled  beets  on  the 
bottom  ;  some  letters  or  flowers  may  be  cut  in  beet,  the 
intervals  or  holes  filled  with  turnips  and  carrots ;  when  the 
bottom  is  lined  with  beets,  carrots,  and  turnips,  lay  hori- 
zontally a  row  of  pieces  of  carrots  all  around  and  against 
the  sides  of  the  mould ;  place  a  similar  one  of  turnips  on 
the  carrots,  and  so  on,  the  last  row  being  as  high  as  the 
top  of  the  mould.  Then  put  a  layer  of  the  cabbage  on 
the  bottom,  about  half  an  inch  thick — that  is,  on  the  car- 
rots, turnips,  and  beets — place  a  like  layer  on  tl.o  sides 
with  a  spoon ;  put  the  pieces  of  prairie-hen  in  the  middle, 
cover  with  a  layer  of  cabbage,  and  bake  about  fifteen  min- 
utes in  an  oven  at  about  350  deg.  Fahr.  The  meat  must 
not  touch  the  carrots  or  turnips,  but  be  entirely  surrounded 
with  cabbage,  else  i*  would  crumble  down  in  removing  tho 


286  GAME. 

mould.  As  soon  as  the  mould  is  taken  out  of  the  oven, 
place  a  dish  over  it  and  turn  it  upside  down,  leave  it  so 
about  ten  minutes  to  allow  the  juice  to  come  out,  then  re- 
move the  mould  carefully,  and  serve. 

The  cut  below  represents  a  chartreuse  made  exactly 
like  the  one  described  above,  with  the  exception  that  in- 
stead of  having  a  row  of  carrots  and  a  row  of  turnips, 
they  are  mixed,  that  is,  placed  alternately,  the  white  spots 
representing  pieces  of  turnips  and  the  black  spots  pieces 
of  carrots — the  top  being  decorated  according  to  fancy. 

According  to  the  size  of  the  mould,  two,  three,  or  more 
prairie-hens  may  be  prepared  at  one  time  and  in  the  same 
mould. 


Roasted. — Rub  the  stomach  and  legs  of  the  birds  with 
lemon,  then  envelop  those  parts  with  slices  of  bacon  tied 
with  twine,  or  fixed  with  small  skewers ;  after  which  en- 
velop the  whole  bird  in  buttered  paper  tied  with  twine ; 
place  them  on  a  spit  before  a  good  fire,  take  the  paper  off 
after  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  according  to  the  age  of  the 
bird ;  leave  two  or  three  minutes  longer,  baste  often  during 
the  process  of  roasting,  with  the  drippings ;  dish  the  birds 
without  removing  the  slices  of  bacon ;  mix  in  the  gravy 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  or  half  an  orange,  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  and  serve  it  with  the  birds.  It  may  also  be 


GAME.  287 

served  with  water-cress  and  lemon-juice  or  vinegar.  When 
roasted  or  baked  and  dished,  place  carpels  of  oranges  all 
around,  and  serve. 

A  roasted  or  baked  prairie-hen  is  also  served  with  the 
following  sauces :  anchovy,  caper,  Champagne,  cranberry, 
and  ravigote  or  tomato,  and  currant-jelly. 

With  Mushrooms. — When  roasted  or  baked,  serve  it 
with  a  garniture  of  mushrooms.  It  is  also  served  with  a 
garniture  of  cauliflowers,  financiere,  Macedoine,  and  of 
truffles. 

In  Fricassee. — Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  it  like  chicken 
in  fricassee. 

In  Crapaudine — Proceed  as  for  pigeons  in  crapaudine, 
the  only  difference  being  that  it  takes  a  little  longer  to 
cook.  It  is  also  prepared  and  served  as  a  quail,  hunter- 
like.  It  takes  longer  to  cook  than  a  quail. 

Saute. — Clean,  prepare,  cut,  cook,  dish,  and  serve  the 
prairie-bird  as  a  chicken  saute. 

Stewed. — Clean,  prepare,  and  truss  the  bird  as  directed. 
Put  about  one  ounce  of  butter  and  two  ounces  of  fat  salt 
pork,  cut  in  dice,  in  a  saucepan,  and  set  it  on  a  quick  fire ; 
toss  gently,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted,  put  the  bird  in 
and  brown  it  all  around ;  then  add  four  small  onions,  half 
a  carrot  in  slices,  salt,  and  pepper ;  stir  till  the  onions  and 
carrot  are  partly  fried ;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  broth,  same 
of  white  wine,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  four  or 
five  stalks  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  one  bay-leaf,  and  a 
clove ;  boil  gently  till  done ;  dish  the  bird,  turn  the  sauce 
over  it  through  a  strainer,  and  serve  warm.  Thus  stewed,  it 
may  be  served  with  the  following  purees :  asparagus,  beans, 
lentils,  lima  beans,  mushrooms,  and  peas. 

Cold. — A  whole  bird  or  part  of  it  left  from  the  pre- 
ceding day's  dinner,  if  it  has  been  broiled,  baked,  or 


288  GAME. 

roasted,  is  prepared  and  served  in  salad,  like  a  chicken 
salad ;  or  in  salmis. 

Boned. — A  boned  prairie-bird  makes  an  excellent  dish 
and  a  most  nutritious  and  warming  one.  Persons  having 
a  phlegmatic  constitution  ought  to  partake  of  it  at  least 
twice  a  week  during  hunting-time.  Always  select  a  very 
fresh  and  fat  bird  to  bone.  Pick,  bone,  fill,  cook,  and 
serve  it  as  described  for  boned  turkey.  A  prairie-hen  is 
more  easily  boned,  when  fresh,  than  an  ordinary  chicken. 
The  addition  of  truffles  (about  half  a  pound  for  one  bird) 
makes  it  still  richer  and  warmer. 

In  Croquettes. — Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  as  chicken 
croquettes. 

Quails. — A  quail,  like  a  prairie-bird,  is  old  when  it 
has  a  white  bill  and  bluish  legs ;  when  young,  the  bill  is 
of  a  rather  dark-gray  color,  and  the  legs  are  yellowish. 
Quails  are  just  the  contrary  of  pheasants ;  the  more  fresh 
they  are  when  cooked,  the  better. 

To  prepare. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed 
for  poultry,  cut  off  the  end  of  the  claws,  and  then  truss  it 
as  a  chicken,  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  on  the  breast.  Cut 
thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork,  somewhat  square,  and  of  a 
proper  size  to  cover  the  breast  of  the  bird,  but  not  the 
back.  Tie  it  to  the  bird  with  two  pieces  of  twine,  then 
roast  or  bake. 

Another  way  to  prepare  them. — When  cleaned,  pre- 
pared, and  trussed  as  above,  envelop  the  bird  with  grape- 
vine leaves,  then  in  thin  slices  of  salt-pork,  and  roast  or 
bake  them.  They  may  also  be  enveloped  in  buttered 
paper,  after  being  prepared,  instead  of  sajt  pork  or  grape- 
vine leaves,  or  instead  of  both,  but  only  to  roast  them ;  if 
baked,  the  buttered  paper  is  placed  over  the  birds. 

Baked. — Place  the  birds  on  their  backs  in  a  baking- 


GAME.  289 

pan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut  on  eaca  , 
just  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water,  and  set 
in  a  quick  oven  (about  400°  Fahr.)  and  baste  now  and 
then.  When  about  half  done,  put  the  liver  of  the  birds, 
well  pounded,  in  the  baking-pan,  and  continue  basting  till 
done.  While  the  quails  are  baking,  cut  as  many  square 
slices  of  stale  bread  as  you  have  quails,  about  three  inches 
broad  and  one-fourth  of  an  inch  thick ;  fry  them  in  hot 
fat,  place  them  on  the  dish,  place  a  quail  with  the  breast 
upward  on  each  slice ;  remove  the  twine,  turn  the  gravy 
over  them  and  serve  warm.  Water-cress  may  be  placed 
between  each  bird,  as  well  as  all  around,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  dish,  with  vinegar  or  lemon-juice  sprinkled  all 
over.  It  must  also  be  served  warm. 

Hunter-like  (au  Chasseur). — Clean  and  prepare  as  di- 
rected for  birds.  Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two 
ounces  of  butter  to  melt,  then  put  in  it  four  quails  trussed 
as  for  roasting ;  turn  them  round  in  the  pan  to  color  every 
side ;  add  then  half  a  dozen  stalks  of  parsley,  salt,  pepper, 
and  nearly  cover  them  with  broth  and  white  wine,  half  of 
each ;  boil  gently  till  done.  Dish  the  quails,  and  put  them 
away  in  a  warm  place.  Strain  the  sauce  and  put  it  back 
on  the  fire  with  a  tablespoonful  of  meuniere,  boil  rather 
fast  till  it  commences  turning  thick,  turn  over  the  quails 
and  serve  warm. 

Boasted. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed, 
envelop  the  birds  in  grape-vine  leaves  and  salt  pork,  or  in 
buttered  paper,  as  directed  above,  and  place  them  on  the 
spit  before  a  moderate  though  good  fire.  Have  slices  of 
roasted  bread  in  the  dripping-pan,  baste  often  with  the 
drippings,  and  when  done  remove  the  twine,  or  the  twine 
and  paper,  but  neither  the  salt  pork  nor  the  grape-vine 
leaves,  -uid  serve  warm.  The  slices  of  bread  are  placed 
13 


290  GAME. 

on  the  dish,  then  a  quail  on  each  slice.  Water-cress  may 
also  be  served  as  above. 

Quails  roasted  with  grape-vine  leaves  are  considered 
one  of  the  most  recherche  dishes.  When  about  half 
roasted,  the  liver  of  the  birds,  well  pounded,  is  put  in  the 
dripping-pan,  and  the  drippings  are  turned  over  the  birds 
when  dished.  When  pounded,  the  livers  may  be  spread 
on  the  slices  of  bread  before  placing  them  in  the  dripping- 
pan. 

With  Green  Peas. — When  the  quails  are  roasted  or 
baked,  they  may  be  served  with  green  peas  au  jus.  They 
may  also  be  served  on  a  puree  of  celery  or  of  mushrooms. 
In  Chartreuse. — Proceed  exactly  as  for  a  chartreuse  of 
prairie-bird.  Quails  may  be  served  in  every  way  like 
prairie-hens,  stewed,  in  salad,  in  salmis,  etc. 

Rabbit — to  select. — A  rabbit,  like  almost  every  other 
kind  of  game,  has  a  better  taste  when  a  little  seasoned, 
but  not  too  much  so.  As  long  as  the  body  is  rather  stiff, 
it  is  good ;  but  when  soft,  and  when  the  flesh  has  a  black- 
bluish  appearance,  it  is  necessary  to  examine  it  carefully, 
as  it  might  be  tainted.  A  young  rabbit  has  soft  paws, 
and  are  not  much  opened ;  but  an  old  one  has  them 
open,  hard,  and  worn  out.  The  ears  of  a  young  one  are 
very  soft,  while  those  of  an  old  one  are  stiff  and  com- 
paratively rough.  The  blood  of  the  rabbit  is  a  great  im- 
provement when  mixed  with  the  sauce  or  gravy  accom- 
panying it  when  served;  therefore,  we  emphatically  and 
earnestly  ask  of  hunters,  when  they  kill  rabbits,  to  place 
them  in  their  game-bags  in  such  a  position  tha.t  the  place 
where  the  shots  have  penetrated  and  through  which  the 
blood  is  escaping,  be  upward,  and  consequently  stop  the 
spilling  of  it. 

Tame  rabbits,  unless  they  have  been  kept  in  a  large 


GAME.  291 

place,  well  fed,  free  from  any  manure  or  dirt,  and  having 
also  plenty  of  room  to  burrow  in  a  dry  soil,  are  very  sel- 
dom fit  to  eat. 

To  lard. — The  fleshy  parts  of  a  rabbit  are  larded  with 
salt  pork  in  the  same  way  as  described  for  a  fillet  of  beef. 

Baked. — To  bake  it,  it  may  be  larded  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  taste.  When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed  for 
game,  place  the  rabbit  in  a  baking-pan,  with  a  few  slices 
of  onion  and  carrot ;  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  it ;  cover  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  with  cold  water  and  set  it  in  a  quick 
oven.  After  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  turn  the  rabbit  over, 
baste  and  cover  it  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper.  Con- 
tinue basting  till  done.  When  about  half  done,  if  the 
water  and  juice  are  boiling  away  or  absorbed,  add  more 
water  or  broth,  and  when  done  turn  the  gravy  over  the 
rabbit  through  a  strainer,  and  serve  with  water-cress  and 
a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  or  vinegar. 

It  is  also  served  with  a  cranberry,  fines  herbes,  mush- 
room, piquante,  ravigote,  tomato,  and  truffle  sauce. 

In  Chartreuse. — A  rabbit  is  prepared  in  chartreuse  the 
same  as  a  prairie-chicken ;  the  only  difference  is,  that  it 
requires  a  larger  mould ;  the  rest  of  the  process  is  the 
same. 

In  Civet,  or  stewed. — Cut  the  rabbit  in  pieces,  and  fiy 
them  with  a  little  butter  till  turning  rather  brown,  when 
add  half  a  pound  of  lean  salt  pork  cut  in  dice ;  stir  and 
fry  two  or  three  minutes,  stir  in  also  a  tablespoonful  of 
flour ;  one  minute  after  add  a  half  pint  of  broth,  same  of 
claret  wine,  salt,  twelve  small  onions,  and  a  bunch  of 
seasonings,  composed  of  three  or  four  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  a  clove  of  garlic,  one  clove. 
Boil  gently  till  done ;  throw  away  the  bunch  of  season- 
ings, and  serve  warm.  In  case  it  is  not  handy  to  use 


292  GAME. 

claret  wine,  use  a  gill  of  Madeira,  or  Port,  or  Sherry  wine, 
and  one  gill  of  water.  Without  wine  at  all  it  mates  an 
inferior  dish. 

A  civet  made  three  or  four  days  in  advance,  and 
warmed  in  a  bain-marie  for  ten  minutes,  once  every  day,  is 
better  than  if  eaten  as  soon  as  made. 

In  case  the  sauce  is  becoming  too  thick,  after  warming 
the  rabbit  several  times,  add  a  little  broth,  and  also  a  lit- 
tle butter ;  stir  gently,  and  always  serve  as  warm  as  pos- 
sible. 

In  Crapaudine. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  di- 
rected, cook  and  serve  the  rabbit  as  described  for  pigeon 
in  crapaudine,  with  the  exception  that  it  takes  a  little 
longer  to  cook. 

In  Croquettes.  What  may  be  left  from  the  preceding 
day's  dinner  of  a  baked,  roasted,  or  stuffed  rabbit,  may  be 
prepared  in  croquettes,  in  the  same  way  as  chicken  cro- 
quettes. 

With  Currant-Jelly. — A  rabbit  served  with  currant- 
jelly  makes  a  sightly  dish,  but  it  requires  care  and  taste. 
Skin  the  rabbit  carefully,  leaving  the  ears  unskinned.  Cut 
the  legs  at  the  first  joint,  then  dip  the  ears  in  hot  (but  not 
boiling)  water,  and  scrape  off  the  hair  carefully.  Draw  it 
and  wash  the  inside  carefully  also,  putting  away  the  liver, 
heart,  and  lungs.  Chop  fine  one  middling-sized  onion, 
and  fry  it  with  about  one  ounce  of  butter ;  then  add  to 
the  onion,  and  fry  them  also,  the  heart,  liver,  and  lungs  of 
the  rabbit,  after  being  chopped  fine,  when  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg  grated, 
ind  a  piece  of  clove  also  grated.  Stir  for  about  one 
minute,  take  from  the  fire,  mix  with  it  two  yolks  of  eggs 
and  one  ounce  of  butter.  Fill  the  rabbit  with  the  mix 
ture,  sew  up  the  incision  made  to  draw  it,  and  then  truss 


GAME.  293 

it  in  the  following  way  :  Put  the  rabbit  on  the  paste  board 
so  that  it  appears  as  if  it  were  resting,  lying  on  its  belly. 
Skewer  the  ears  so  that  they  seem  to  be  naturally  bent 
on  the  back  of  the  neck.  With  a  trussing-needle  fasten 
the  forelegs  so  that  they  look  also  as  if  naturally  bent  by 
the  animal  when  at  rest  Roast  or  bake  it,  and  serve  it 
with  the  gravy  and  currant  or  raspberry  jelly. 

It  is  placed  on  the  dish  lying  on  its  belly,  the  skewers 
and  twine  are  removed,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley  are 
placed  in  its  mouth.  The  currant-jelly  may  be  served  in 
a  saucer  and  the  gravy  in  another. 

In  Gibelotte. — The  only  difference  between  a  gibclottt 
and  a  civet  is  that  the  latter  is  made  with  claret  wine  and 
the  former  with  Sauterne  or  Catawba.  Other  white  wino 
may  be  used,  but  the  two  kinds  above  mentioned  are  the 
best. 

Marengo. — "When  cleaned  and  prepared  as  directed, 
cut  the  rabbit  in  pieces ;  keep  the  head,  neck,  and  trim- 
mings, to  make  a  potage  au  chasseur,  and  cook  and  serve 
the  rest  as  a  chicken  a  la  Marengo. 

In  Papillotes. — The  four  legs  and  two  pieces  cut  on 
both  sides  of  the  backbone  may  be  prepared,  cooked,  and 
served  as  veal  cutlets  in  papillotes.  The  rest  is  used  to 
make  a  potage  au  chasseur. 

With  Olives. — When  baked  or  roasted,  serve  it  as  a 
duck  with  olives,  putting  three  dozen  olives  instead  of  two. 

Roasted. — It  may  be  roasted  with  only  a  little  buttei 
spread  all  over  it,  or  enveloped  in  buttered  paper ;  or  larded 
with  salt  pork ;  or  larded  and  enveloped  in  buttered  paper. 
It  must  be  basted  often,  and  if  enveloped  with  paper,  the 
paper  must  be  removed  about  fifteen  minutes  before  tak- 
ing the  rabbit  from  the  fire.  Ascertain  when  done  by 
means  of  a  skewer  or  a  small  eharp-pointed  knife.  It 


294  GAME. 

takes  about  forty-five  minutes  to  roast,  according  to  size 
and  fire.  When  roasted  it  may  be  served  with  its  gravy 
or  drippings  only,  or  with  a  cranberry,  fines  herbes,  mush' 
room,  piquantej  Provencale,  ravigote,  Tar 'tar ',  tomato,  or 
truffle  sauce. 

With  Green  Peas. — When  baked  or  roasted,  save  it 
with  green  peas  au  jus. 

Saute. — When  the  rabbit  is  cleaned  and  prepared  as 
directed,  proceed  as  for  a  chicken  saute  in  every  par- 
ticular. 

Sportsman-like. — Clean  and  prepare  the  rabbit,  then 
cut  off  the  neck,  head,  and  the  end  of  the  legs,  which 
you  keep  to  make  a  potage  au  chasseur.  Put  the  rest  in 
a  crockery  vessel  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  salt,  and  pep- 
per. Leave  thus  for  at  least  one  day,  turning  it  over  two 
or  three  times.  Then  bake  or  roast  it,  and  serve  with 
the  gravy  and  water-cress. 

Stewed. — When  cleaned  and  prepared,  cut  the  rabbit 
in  pieces.  Put  in  a  saucepan  three  ounces  of  butter  and 
set  it  on  the  fire  ;  as  soon  as  melted,  put  the  pieces  of 
rabbit  in,  stir  now  and  then  till  they  are  turning  rather 
brown,  then  take  them  from  the  pan  but  keep  it  on  the 
fire.  Put  in  it  a  rather  small  carrot  and  two  or  three 
onions,  both  sliced,  a  few  slices  of  turnip,  half  a  dozen 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  celery,  one  of  thyme,  the  last 
ihree  tied  together  with  twine,  and  two  or  three  cloves, 
also  half  a  pint  of  Madeira  or  Sherry  wine,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  cover  the  whole  with  broth  or  water ;  boil  gently 
till  half  done,  when  add  the  rabbit,  and  continue  boiling 
till  the  whole  is  done,  stirring  once  in  a  while.  Dish  the 
rabbit,  mash  the  onions,  carrot,  and  turnip,  through  a  col- 
ander, which  you  put  all  around  the  pieces  of  rabbit, 
strain  the  sauce  over  the  whole,  and  serve  warm. 


GAME.  295 

Cold. — WLat  is  left  is  warmed  and  served,  if  from  a 
sivet,  gibelotte,  stewed,  etc.,  and  served  with  a  vinaigrette, 
rf  from  a  roasted  or  baked  piece.  It  may  also  be  served 
with  a  piquante,  poivrade,  or  ravigote  sauce. 

Snipe — to  truss. — Prepare  as  directed  for  poultry. 
Cut  the  wings  off  just  above  the  second  joint,  as  seen 
in  the  cut  below.  The  head  and  legs  must  be  cleaned 
very  carefully.  By  heating  the  lower  part  of  the  legs  and 
the  claws,  the  skin  can  be  easily  removed,  but  this  is  not 
necessary,  they  may  be  singed  and  washed  only.  Fold 
the  legs  and  run  the  bill  of  the  bird  through  the  two  legs 
and  the  body.  Put  a  slice  of  fat  salt  pork  on  the  breast 
of  the  snipe,  which  you  fasten  there  with  twine,  as  seen 
in  the  cut  below.  The  cut  represents  the  bird  on  the  spit, 
ready  for  roasting. 


Stewed. — Take  four  snipes  and  pound  the  livers,  hearts, 
and  lungs  well  with  about  the  same  amount  of  fat  salt 
pork ;  then  add  to  them  about  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley 
chopped  fine,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg;  divide  the  mixture 
in  four  parts  and  put  each  part  in  a  bird,  which  you  sew 
and  truss  as  directed.  Line  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  with 
slices  of  salt  pork  and  lay  the  snipe  on  them ;  set  on  a 
slow  fire  for  ten  minutes,  add  about  half  a  pint  of  white 
wine,  same  of  broth;  simmer  till  done,  dish  the  birds, 
etrain  the  gravy  on  them,  sprinkle  a  few  drops  of  lemon- 
juice  over  the  whole,  and  serve  warm.  Snipes  are  served 


296  GAME. 

in  several  ways,  as  described  for  bobolinks  and  other 
small  birds. 

Salmis. — A  salmis  is  made  with  tame  ducks  and  any 
kind  of  game  birds. 

Birds  may  be  roasted  or  baked  to  make  a  salmis,  but 
most  generally  it  is  made  with  cold  birds,  that  is,  what  is 
left  from,  the  previous  day's  dinner.  It  is  certainly  the 
best  way  to  make  use  of  cold  birds.  The  proportions  of 
the  different  seasonings  are  according  to  the  proportion 
of  meat.  We  give  below  the  proportions  for  a  whole 
bird ;  it  will  be  easy  to  augment  or  reduce.  Put  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  as 
soon  as  melted  stir  into  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  when 
turning  rather  yellow  add  one  pint  of  broth,  same  of 
claret  wine,  a  bunch  of  seasonings  composed  of  four  or 
five  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf  and  a 
clove,  also  salt,  pepper,  and  a  clove  of  garlic ;  boil  gently 
about  thirty-five  minutes.  Strain  the  sauce  into  a  sauce- 
pan. Cut  the  bird  or  part  of  bird  in  pieces,  the  same  as 
they  are  generally  carved;  put  them  in  the  pan  with  the 
sauce ;  place  the  saucepan  in  a  bain-marie  till  the  meat  is 
warm,  add  some  lemon-juice,  and  serve.  While  the  meat 
is  warming,  cut  some  stale  bread  in  croutons,  fry  them 
with  a  little  butter. 

To  serve.— A  salmis  is  served  in  two  ways:  first,  the 
croutons  are  placed  on  the  dish,  a  piece  of  meat  is  put  on 
each,  and  then  the  sauce  is  poured  all  over;  second, 
dish  the  meat  and  sauce,  place  the  croutons  all  around  the 
dish,  with  a  piece  of  lemon  or  bitter  orange  between  each 
crouton.  When  the  croutons  are  served  under  the  pieces 
of  meat,  you  must  have  as  many  as  there  are  pieces ; 
when  served  around  the  dish,  have  enough  of  them,  and 
of  slices  of  lemon,  to  surround  the  dish.  The  croutons  and 


GAME.  297 

slices  of  lemon  are  always  placed  around  the  meat  and 
on  the  border  of  the  dish.  The  lemon  or  orange  is  first 
split  in  two  lengthwise,  then  cut  in  eight,  twelve,  or  six- 
teen slices,  always  commencing  to  cut  on  the  inside  and 
finishing  by  the  rind.  Chop  fine  the  bones,  heart,  and 
liver  of  the  bird,  and  put  them  in  the  saucepan  at  the 
same  time  with  the  broth.  Truffles  or  mushrooms  sliced 
may  be  added  to  the  sauce,  if  liked,  but  only  when 
strained. 

Another. — Carve  the  bird  or  part  of  it,  and  serve  cold 
with  the  following  sauce  pound  the  liver  of  the  bird  and 
put  it  in  a  saucer ;  add  to  it  a  little  vinegar,  salt,  pepper, 
and  stir  and  mix  the  whole ;  then  add  about  three  times 
as  much  oil  as  vinegar,  mix  again,  then  lemon-juice,  stir, 
and  serve.  It  may  be  made  without  vinegar  at  all,  using 
lemon-juice  instead  of  vinegar  to  mix  at  first. 


OPOSSUM,  OTTER,  RACCOON,  SKUNK,  FOX,  WOODCHUCR, 
AND  OTHER  LIKE  ANIMALS. 

We  cannot  say  that  we  have  had  much  experience  in 
cooking  the  above  animals,  but  they  are  all  eaten  by  many 
persons,  in  different  parts  of  this  and  other  countries. 
We  have  tasted  of  all  of  them  except  the  raccoon, 
and  we  must  say  that  we  found  them  palatable.  It  is 
well  known  that  when  our  soldiers  retook  possession  of 
Ship  Island,  they  found  plenty  of  raccoons  on  it,  and  ate 
all  they  could  catch.  One  day  we  happened  to  meet  a 
sub-officer,  who  was  there  at  the  time,  and  inquired  of  him 
about  it.  He  said  he  had  never  eaten  any  raccoons  be- 
fore, and  did  not  know  that  they  were  eatable ;  but  now 
he  could  eat  them  as  readily  as  rabbits,  as  they  were  quite 
as  good. 

13* 


298  GAME. 

The  best  time  to  eat  any  of  the  animals  enumerated 
above  is  from  Christmas  to  the  15th  of  February. 

How  to  prepare  them. — As  soon  as  the  animal  is  killed 
skin  it,  take  the  inside  out,  save  the  liver  and  heart,  and 
wash  well  with  lukewarm  water  and  a  little  salt,  inside 
and  out;  then  wipe  dry  with  a  towel,  put  inside  a 
few  leaves  of  sage,  bay-leaves,  mint,  and  thyme,  and  sew 
it  up.  Hang  it  outside  in  a  place  sheltered  from  the  sun, 
euch  as  the  northern  side  of  a  building ;  leave  it  thus  five 
or  six  days,  then  take  off,  and  cook. 

How  to  skin  a  STcunJc. — We  were  hunting  one  day  in 
New  Jersey,  northwest  of  Paterson,  with  a  friend  and  two 
farmers  living  there,  when  one  of  them  shot  a  skunk.  We 
asked  him  how  much  he  could  get  for  the  skin.  He  said 
it  was  not  worth  while  to  take  it  to  town,  but  that  he 
would  eat  the  animal,  as  it  was  very  good. 

We  thought  at  first  that  he  was  joking ;  but  putting 
his  gun  and  game-bag  to  the  ground,  he  looked  at  us 
earnestly,  and  said,  "Gentlemen,  you  seem  to  doubt;  I 
will  show  you  how  it  is  done."  We  soon  saw  that  we 
had  been  mistaken. 

He  made  a  fire,  took  hold  of  the  skunk  by  the  head 
with  one  hand,  and  with  a  stick  in  the  other  held  the 
skunk  over  the  fire.  He  burnt  off  nearly  all  the  hair, 
taking  care  to  avoid  burning  the  skin,  commencing  at  the 
hind  legs ;  then  with  his  hunting-knife  he  carefully  cut 
off  the  bag  containing  the  fetid  matter,  and  skinned  and 
cleaned  it. 

We  then  examined  the  skunk,  and  although  it  had  not 
been  washed,  we  could  not  find  any  part  of  it  with  a  bad 
§mell,  and  if  we  had  not  seen  the  whole  operation  we  cer- 
tainly would  not  have  thought  that  it  was  a  skunk,  the 
very  name  of  which  is  repulsive. 


GAME.  299 

The  following  week  we  dined  with  the  fanner,  ate  some 
of  that  identical  skunk,  and  found  it  very  good. 

JETow  to  cook  the  above-named  Animals. — Take  out  the 
leaA  us  of  sage,  etc.,  which  you  put  in  the  animal  before 
exposing  it  to  the  weather.  Pound  well  the  liver  and 
heart  with  about  the  same  quantity  of  bacon,  then  mix 
that  with  two  or  three  teaspoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley,  a 
pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and  pepper ;  stuff  the  animal 
with  that  mixture,  and  also  with  six  small  onions  fried  in 
butter,  and  a  bunch  of  seasoning  composed  of  four  sprigs 
of  parsley,  three  of  thyme,  two  cloves,  two  cloves  of  garlic, 
and  two  bay-leaves,  and  sew  it  up  again.  Butter  it  well 
all  over,  place  it  on  a  spit  before  a  very  quick  fire ;  put 
three  or  four  sage-leaves  in  the  dripping-pan,  and  baste 
often  with  the  drippings.  Serve  it  when  cooked  with 
the  gravy,  throwing  away  the  sage-leaves. 

It  may  also  be  served  with  a  Mayonnaise,  ravigote,  or 
Tartar  sauce. 

Squirrel. — A  squirrel  is  prepared  as  a  rabbit  in  every 
particular. 

VENISON. 

If  young,  the  hoof  is  not  much  opened,  and  the  fat  is 
thick  and  clear ;  when  old,  the  hoofs  are  wide  open.  To 
know  if  it  is  fresh  enough,  run  a  knife  or  a  skewer  through 
the  leg  or  through  the  shoulder,  and  if  it  does  not  smell 
bad  and  stale,  it  is  good.  It  is  not  as  delicate  when  fresh 
as  when  it  has  been  killed  for  five  or  six  days.  If  fresh 
when  you  buy  it,  keep  it  from  three  to  eight  days  before 
cooking  it 

To  improve. — Put  the  piece  of  venison  in  a  crockery 
vessel.  For  about  six  pounds  put  a  pint  of  vinegar  in  a 
•aucepan  with  two  bay-leaves,  two  cloves,  two  cloves  of 


300  GAME. 

garlic,  one  onion  sliced,  two  stalks  of  thyme,  four  oi  pars- 
ley, and  twelve  pepper-corns ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  give  one 
boil,  and  turn  over  the  piece  of  venison.  Turn  the  piece 
of  meat  over  occasionally  for  one  or  two  days,  and  then 
cook  it. 

Another  way. — Lard  the  piece  of  venison  and  put  it 
in  a  crockery  vessel ;  spread  all  over  two  or  three  onions 
and  a  clove  or  two  of  garlic  (both  sliced),  half  a  gill  of 
sweet-oil,  same  of  claret  wine,  a  pinch  of  allspice,  four 
cloves,  and  two  sprigs  of  thyme ;  baste  twice  a  day  for 
two  or  three  days,  and  then  cook. 

To  bake. — Put  the  venison  in  a  baking-pan  with  the 
seasonings  in  which  it  has  improved  ;  spread  some  butter 
on  it,  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick  oven ;  baste  now  and 
then,  and  turn  over  if  necessary.  When  baked,  serve  with 
a  ravigote  sauce,  to  which  you  have  added  the  gravy  from 
the  pan  in  which  it  has  been  baked.  Serve  it  also  with  a 
cranberry,  piquante,  Robert,  or  Tartar  sauce,  or  with  cur- 
rant-jelly. 

In  Civet. — Shoulder,  neck,  and  breast-pieces  are  cut 
and  prepared  in  civet,  in  the  same  way  as  a  civet  of  rabbit. 

It  may  also  be  kept  three  or  four  days  and  warmed 
in  a  bain-marie  ;  it  improves  it  as  much  as  that  of  rabbit. 

With  Mushrooms. — Any  piece  of  venison,  baked  or 
roasted,  may  be  served  with  a  garniture  of  mushrooms. 

Cutlets,  broiled. — The  cutlets  are  much  better  when 
improved  as  directed.  The  seasonings  are  spread  all  over. 
They  are  then  wrapped  up  in  buttered  paper  and  broiled 
on  a  quick  fire.  They  may  also  be  larded  with  salt  pork, 
and  then  broiled  with  or  without  being  enveloped  in  paper. 
When  broiled  and  dished,  serve  them  warm  with  a  maitre 
(T  hotel  c:r  ravigote  sauce. 

Sautees. — Put  six  cutlets  in  a  stewpan,  laided  or  not, 


GAME.  301 

with  salt,  pepper,  eight  small  oniDns,  two  carrots,  four 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  a 
gill  of  broth,  and  same  of  water;  set  it  on  a  good  fire  and 
boil  gently  till  cooked.  Dish  the  cutlets  so  that  every 
small  end  or  bone  rests  on  the  larger  end  of  another,  and 
serve  with  the  sauce  strained  on  them.  If  more  sauce  is 
desired,  add  to  it  any  of  the  following :  cranberry,  piquante, 
ravigote,  Robert,  or  Tartar. 

Haunch,  roasted. — After  being  improved,  if  liked,  re- 
move the  thin  skin  around  it  and  lard  it  with  salt  pork ; 
it  may  be  roasted  without  larding,  but  it  is  certainly  an  im- 
provement, the  meat  being  naturally  dry.  Place  it  on  the 
spit  before  a  brisk  fire  and  near  it ;  baste  with  melted  but- 
ter first,  and  then  with  the  drippings  till  done.  If  it  is 
larded,  it  will  require  less  butter.  As  soon  as  a  kind  of 
crust  forms  around  the  meat,  remove  it  a  little  from  the 
fire  by  degrees.  Ascertain  with  a  skewer  or  small  knife 
when  done.  Venison  is  generally  served  rather  underdone, 
when  roasted  or  baked. 

To  make  the  dish  more  sightly,  the  skin  and  hair  of 
the  lower  part  of  the  leg,  together  with  the  hoof,  are  left 
untouched.  To  prevent  them  from  burning  while  it  is 
roasting,  envelop  these  parts  with  a  wet  towel,  which  you 
cover  with  several  sheets  of  buttered  or  oiled  paper.  It 
may  be  necessary  to  dip  the  towel  in  water  two  or  three 
times  during  the  process  of  roasting.  When  roasted, 
serve  with  any  of  the  following  sauces :  cranberry,  piquante, 
poivrade,  ravigote,  Robert,  or  Tartar ;  also  with  currant- 
jelly.  If  served  with  the  gravy  only,  add  water-cress  and 
lemon-juice  or  vinegar. 

Baked. — Prepare  it  as  directed  for  roasting ;  then  place 
it  in  a  bakepan  with  a  little  cold  water,  just  enough  to 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan;  sprinkle  salt  and  pepper  all 


302  GAME. 

over,  spread  some  butter  on  the  upper  side  and  put  in  a 
quick  oven.  Turn  over  and  baste  now  and  then  till  done. 
If  the  water  is  absorbed,  add  more.  When  baked,  serve 
with  the  same  sauces  as  if  roasted,  and  also  with  cur- 
rant-jelly and  water-cress. 

Saddle. — Roast  or  bake  the  saddle,  and  serve  it  as 
directed  for  a  haunch,  with  the  same  sauces,  and  also  with 
water-cress  and  currant-jelly. 

Shoulder. — Cut  the  shoulder  in  fillets  and  lard  them 
slightly.  Put  in  a  stewpan  four  ounces  of  butter  and  set 
it  on  a  brisk  fire ;  when  hot,  lay  the  fillets  in.  and  when 
of  a  golden  color  add  the  seasonings  in  which  you  have 
improved  the  saddle,  or  the  same  ones  if  you  have  not 
done  it ;  then  subdue  the  fire,  wet  with  a  little  warm  broth, 
simmer  till  cooked,  dish  the  fillets,  strain  the  sauce  on 
them,  and  serve.  It  may  also  be  dressed  entire,  with  the 
bones  off;  but  it  is  more  generally  done  in  fillets.  It  is 
boned  like  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  and  roasted  or  baked, 
and  served  like  a  haunch,  with  the  same  sauces  and  with 
currant-jelly  or  water-cress. 

Stewed. — Cut  the  meat  in  square  pieces,  about  two 
inches  in  size.  Have  in  a  stewpan,  and  on  a  good  fire,  a 
piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  duck's  egg ;  when  melted, 
sprinkle  in,  little  by  little,  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stirring 
the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon;  when  getting  rather 
thick,  add  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice,  also  half  a  pint 
of  claret  wine,  same  of  warm  water,  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch 
of  allspice,  two  shallots  chopped  fine,  or  two  green  onions, 
four  or  five  mushrooms,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  and  six 
onions ;  then  lay  the  meat  on  the  whole,  and  boil  gently 
till  cooked.  Dish  the  meat,  boil  the  sauce  till  of  a  brown- 
ish color,  skim  off  the  fat  if  there  is  too  much  of  it,  take 
out  the  cloves  of  garlic,  turn  the  sauce  on  the  meat,  and 
serve  hot. 


GAME.  303 

With  Truffles  or  Mushrooms. — Any  part  of  venison, 
baked  or  roasted,  may  be  served  with  a  garniture  of  mush- 
rooms, or  one  of  truffles. 

Cold. — When  you  have  some  left  for  the  next  day, 
warm  it  before  serving  it,  if  from  a  stew ;  but  if  from  a 
roasted  haunch,  cut  in  slices  and  serve  cold  with  a  vinai- 
grette. 

SNAILS. 

A  good  many  are  now  imported  from  Europe. 

How  to  clean  and  prepare. — Throw  them  in  boiling 
water,  in  which  you  have  put  some  wood-ashes;  leave 
them  in  till  they  have  thrown  their  cover  wide  open,  which 
will  take  about  fifteen  minutes ;  then  take  them  off,  pull 
them  out  of  the  shell  by  means  of  a  fork,  place  them  in 
lukewarm  water,  and  leave  two  hours ;  next,  rub  them  in 
your  hands,  and  then  soak  in  cold  water;  rub  them  agaic 
in  your  hands  in  cold  water,  two  or  three  times,  chang- 
ing the  water  each  time,  so  as  to  take  away  most  of  their 
sliminess.  Wash  the  shells  in  lukewarm  water  with  a 
scrubbing-brush,  and  drain  them  when  clean. 

Broiled. — Knead  together  and  make  a  paste  of  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  butter,  parsley  chopped  fine,  salt,  pepper, 
and  grated  nutmeg;  say  about  two  ounces  of  butter,  a 
tablespoonful  of  parsley,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a  pinch  of 
pepper,  and  the  same  of  nutmeg  (for  two  dozen).  Put  a 
piece  of  the  above  paste,  the  size  of  a  kidney  bean,  in  each 
shell,  then  the  snails,  and  at  the  top  again  the  same  quan- 
tity of  paste ;  lay  them  one  by  one  close  together,  in  a 
crockery  or  cast-iron  kettle,  the  mouth  of  the  snails  up, 
and  not  one  upon  another ;  cover  the  kettle  well ;  set  it 
on  a  moderate  fire,  or  in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  and 
leave  thus  till  cooked,  which  is  easily  seen  by  the  parsley 


304  GAME. 

beginning  to  turn  black,  or  as  if  fried.  Lay  them  on  a 
dish  in  the  same  order,  and  if  there  is  any  gravy  in  the 
kettle,  put  a  part  of  it  in  each  shell,  and  serve  hot. 

In  eating  them,  be  careful  after  having  taken  off  the 
snail  and  eaten  it,  to  turn  down  the  shell,  for  there  is  some 
juice  in  the  bottom  of  it  which  is  delicious ;  the  best  way 
is  to  drink  it  as  if  from  the  bottom  of  a  glass. 

They  can  be  broiled  on  a  gridiron,  but  they  are  not 
as  good  as  in  a  kettle ;  some  of  the  juice  is  lost,  and  also 
the  flavor. 

Stewed. — Put  in  a  stewpan  four  ounces  of  butter  for 
fifty  snails,  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle 
in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stirring  a  while ;  then  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  two  sprigs  of  thyme, 
a  bay-leaf,  a  pint  of  white  wine,  and  then  the  snails,  which 
you  have  previously  put  back  into  their  shells;  cover  the 
whole  with  warm  broth,  boil  gently  till  the  sauce  is  reduced 
and  the  snails  are  cooked,  and  serve  them  mouth  upward, 
and  filled  with  the  sauce. 


VEGETABLES. 


GREEN  vegetables  must  look  fresh,  and  have  nothing 
rotten  about  them. 

To  boil  or  blanch  Green  Vegetables. — Whatever  they 
are,  spinach,  green  peas,  asparagus,  etc.,  put  some  cold 
water  and  a  little  salt  on  the  fire ;  clean  the  vegetable, 
•wash  it  if  necessary,  then  drop  it  in  the  water  at  the  first 
boil ;  keep  boiling  for  a  time  or  till  done ;  drain,  and  im- 
mediately drop  it  in  cold  water ;  drain  again  before  using. 
It  is  impossible  to  tell  how  long  it  takes  to  boil ;  it  depends 
entirely  on  the  nature  of  the  vegetable:  for  instance, 
spinach,  as  well  as  peas  or  any  other  vegetable,  according 
to  how  tender  it  is,  may  take  from  three  to  twenty  minutes 
to  cook  properly.  Dry  vegetables,  such  as  beans,  peas, 
lentils,  etc.,  are  washed  or  soaked  in  cold  water,  drained, 
and  then  set  on  the  fire  with  cold  water  and  no  salt.  Salt 
renders  beans  much  harder  and  retards  their  cooking. 
Other  vegetables  that  are  neither  green  nor  dry,  such  as 
carrots,  turnips,  etc.,  are  generally  set  on  the  fire  with  cold 
water  and  salt.  If  prepared  in  other  ways,  it  is  explained 
in  the  receipts. 

Potatoes  are  generally  steamed ;  when  they  must  be 
boiled,  it  is  explained.  We  recommend  to  drop  the  green 
vegetables  in  the  water  at  the  first  boil,  because,  in  boil- 


806  VEGETABLES. 

ing,  water  evaporates  its  gases  and  alkali,  and  is  there- 
fore inferior  for  cooking  purposes.  Green  vegetables  are 
more  acid  here  than  in  Europe,  on  account  of  the  newness 
and  richness  of  the  soil ;  so  is  some  fruit. 

Artichokes. — The  artichoke  we  refer  to  here  is  the  plant 
somewhat  resembling  a  thistle,  having  a  large,  scaly  head, 
like  the  cone  of  the  pine-tree ;  the  lower  part  of  the  leaves 
composing  the  head,  with  the  broad  receptacle  underneath, 
is  the  eatable  part.  It  is  a  native  of  Sicily,  and  is  an  ex- 
cellent and  delicate  vegetable.  It  grows  well  here,  and  the 
reason  why  it  is  not  more  generally  known  is  because  some 
persons  who  are  used  to  live  on  coarse  food  have  under- 
rated it — their  palates  not  being  fit  to  appreciate  its  deli- 
cate flavor.  We  recommend  gardeners  and  farmers  to 
cultivate  it ;  they  will  find  a  ready  market. 

How  to  eat  them  raw. — Quarter  them,  take  off  the  outer 
leaves  and  choke,  and  serve  with  oil,  vinegar,  mustard,  salt, 
and  pepper. 

How  to  cook. — Clean  them  and  take  off  the  outer 
leaves,  throw  them  into  boiling  water,  with  parsley,  salt,  and 
pepper  (they  are  cooked  when  the  leaves  come  off  easily), 
then  take  from  the  fire  and  drain,  taking  care  to  put  them 
upside  down. 

The  same,  fried. — When  cooked  as  above,  cut  the 
upper  part  of  the  leaves,  and  then  cut  them  in  eight  pieces, 
take  the  choke  off,  dip  each  piece  in  a  thin  paste  made  of 
flour,  sweet-oil,  beaten  egg,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper,  and 
fry  them  with  a  little  butter.  Serve  them  with  sprigs  of 
fried  parsley  around. 

The  same,  stewed. — When  cooked  as  directed  above, 
cut  them  in  four  pieces,  and  trim  off  the  upper  part  of  the 
leaves,  take  off  the  choke,  and  lay  them  in  a  stewpan ; 
cover  them  with  broth  and  set  on  a  moderate  fire ;  add 


VEGETABLES.  307 

then  one  ounce  of  butter  for  six  artichokes,  one  sprig  of 
parsley,  and  two  mushrooms  cut  in  slices  ;  boil  ten  minutes, 
take  the  parsley  off,  and  serve  the  artichokes  with  the 
mushrooms  around ;  pour  the  sauce  on  the  whole. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Cook,  and  serve  with  a  vinaigrette. 
The  Jerusalem  artichokes  are  dressed  like  potatoes. 

Asparagus. — This  is  thought  to  be  a  native  of  Asia. 
The  white  asparagus  sells  dearer  than  the  other  kinds, 
but  we  cannot  say  that  it  is  on  account  of  its  better  qual- 
ity, it  is  most  likely  for  being  more  sightly  when  served. 
If  it  is  kept  for  some  time  before  boiling  it,  place  the 
bunch  in  about  half  an  inch  deep  of  cold  water,  the  top 
upward,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  There  are  only  four 
ways  of  preparing  asparagus  without  changing  or  destroy- 
ing the  natural  taste  of  the  plant  The  large  ones,  or 
what  is  called  the  first  cut,  is  prepared  in  vinaigrette, 
white  sauce,  and  fried  ;  the  small  one,  or  second  cut,  is 
cooked  en  petite  pois — like  green  peas.  It  is  better  and 
has  more  taste  when  boiled  rather  underdone,  that  is, 
taken  from  the  water  when  still  firm  ;  if  boiled  till  soft,  it 
loses  its  taste  and  is  not  crisp. 

To  boil. — Cut  off  some  of  the  white  part,  so  as  to  have 
the  whole  of  one  length  if  possible ;  then  scrape  the  white 
end  a  little,  soak  in  cold  water  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
drain.  Tie  it  in  small  bunches  of  half  a  dozen  or  a  dozen, 
according  to  size,  and  drop  them  in  boiling  water  and  a 
little  salt,  at  the  first  boil  of  the  water.  Boil  till  rather 
underdone,  take  off,  drain  and  drop  in  cold  water  imme- 
diately. Drain  again,  and  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

En  Petits  Pois.  — Cut  small  asparagus  in  pieces  about 
half  an  inch  long,  and  blanch  them  for  three  minutes. 
Take  off  and  drain ;  then  put  them  in  a  saucepan  on  the 
6re  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  stir  now  and 


308  VEGETABLES. 

then  for  about  two  minutes,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ; 
stir  again,  and  as  soon  as  mixed  with  the  asparagus  add 
also  about  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped 
parsley,  stir,  and,  when  the  butter  is  melted,  serve. 

Fried. — Blanch  the  asparagus  two  minutes,  drain  it ; 
dip  each  in  batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Take  off  with  a 
skimmer  when  done  ;  and  turn  into  a  colander,  salt  it,  and 
serve  hot. 

In  Vinaigrette. — Boil  it  as  directed.  When  cold, 
serve  with  a  vinaigrette.  (This  is  also  called  d  Vhuile.) 

With  White  Sauce. — While  it  is  boiling,  make  a  white 
sauce ;  drain  the  asparagus  and  serve  both,  sauce  and 
vegetable,  warm.  The  asparagus  is  not  dropped  in  cold 
water. 

With  Cream  Sauce. — It  is  prepared  and  served  as  with 
a  white  sauce. 

In  Omelet. — Boil  the  asparagus  as  directed,  and  when 
cool  cut  it  in  small  pieces  about  half  an  inch  long,  and 
when  the  omelet  is  ready  to  be  folded  in  two,  a  little 
while  before  taking  from  the  fire,  place  the  asparagus  in 
the  middle,  then  fold  and  serve  the  omelet  as  if  there  were 
nothing  in  it, 

Green  or  String  Beans,  Dwarf  or  Snap  Beans, 
French  Haricots,  Pole  Beans,  Kidney  Beans ,  etc. — To  pre- 
pare them  when  green  and  cooked  with  the  pods. — Re- 
move the  string  or  thread  that  is  on  both  sides,  by 
partly  breaking  one  end  of  the  pod  and  pulling  length- 
wise, repeat  the  same  for  the  other  side ;  cut  them  in 
pieces  half  an  inch  long,  soak  them  in  cold  water,  and 
throw  them  into  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt.  Boil  them 
till  cooked,  which  you  will  know  by  pressing  one  between 
your  fingers  to  see  if  tender;  take  them  from  the  fire, 
throw  them  into  cold  water  to  cool,  and  drain  them. 


VEGETABLES.  309 

Au  jus. — Cook  a  quart  of  beans.  Put  two  ounces  of 
uutter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted, 
put  the  beans  in  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley ; 
stir  five  minutes ;  then  add  a  gill  of  broth,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  simmer  twenty  minutes,  and,  just  on  taking  from  the 
fire,  mix  in  it  two  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs,  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve. 

Maitre  (Thotel. — Put  in  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  put  in  it  a 
quart  of  beans  cooked  in  water,  with  a  pinch  of  grated 
nutmeg,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  chopped  parsley ;  keep  stirring  continually,  boil  ten 
minutes,  take  from  the  fire,  mix  in  it  two  beaten  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  serve. 

The  same,  with  Onions. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in 
a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  hot,  put  in  it  two 
onions  cut  in  slices,  and  fry  them.  Then  add  salt,  pepper, 
a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  a  saltspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, and  a  quart  of  beans  cooked  in  water ;  also  half  a 
pint  of  boiling  water ;  boil  ten  minutes,  stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  take  from  the  fire,  sprinkle  in  it  a  few  drops  of 
vinegar,  and  serve. 

The  same,  in  Salad. — Cook  the  beans  in  water,  as  di- 
rected above ;  then  put  a  layer  of  them  in  a  crockery  ves- 
sel, the  layer  to  be  about  one  inch  thick ;  then  sprinkle 
on  it  salt  and  pepper ;  repeat  the  same  process  till  all  your 
beans  are  in;  cover  and  leave  thus  three  or  four  hours; 
then  throw  away  The  water,  or  drain  if  convenient ;  place 
the  beans  in  a  salad-dish,  with  the  sweetroil,  vinegar,  and 
parsley  necessary ;  move  like  a  salad,  and  serve  cold. 

Green,  shelled,  Lima,  or  other  Beans. — Shell  the  beans, 
throw  them  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt,  and  wheu 
cooked  drain  them.  PuMwo  ounces  of  butter  for  a  quart  of 


310  VEGETABLES. 

beans  in  a  saucepan,  and  when  melted  put  the  beans  in  with 
salt  and  pepper  ;  toss  gently  now  and  then  for  three  or  four 
minutes,  then  add  about  a  teaspoonful  of  vinegar,  or  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  chop- 
ped. Mix  and  serve  warm.  They  may  also  be  prepared  as 
string-beans,  either  aujus,  in  maitre  d'hotel,  or  in  salad. 

Dry  Beans,  Lima,  White  or  Colored. — Dry  beans  must 
be  soaked  in  water  for  some  time.  Some  require  to  be 
soaked  twenty-four  hours,  others  only  five  or  six  hours. 
Those  that  require  to  be  soaked  long  are  not  from  the 
last  harvest,  but  have  been  kept  for  two  or  more  years. 
If  you  are  not  sure  that  the  beans  (especially  the  white) 
are  from  this  year's  crop,  soak  them  for  twenty-four  hours 
in  cold  water,  and  then  drain  them. 

To  boil. — Put  the  beans  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water, 
and  boil  gently  till  tender.  If  the  water  boils  away,  fill 
up  with  cold  water,  but  never  put  any  salt  to  boil  dry 
beans,  it  prevents  them  from  cooking.  As  soon  as  boiled 
tender,  drain  them,  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Au  jus. — When  boiled  as  above,  set  them  on  the  fire 
in  a  stewpan  with  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy  or  btoth, 
salt,  and  a  little  butter,  stir  for  two  or  three  minutes,  vhen 
add  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  serve  warm. 

Maitre  d^hbtel  — When  boiled  as  above,  drain  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  about  three  ounces  of  butter  for 
a  quart  of  beans,  stir  now  and  then,  and  when  the  brtter 
is  melted,  add  salt,  pepper,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  fars- 
ley,  and  a  few  drops  of  vinegar ;  just  mix  and  serve. 

With  Salt  Pork. — Boil  a  quart  of  beans  as  directed 
above,  and  drain  them.  Cut  in  dice  about  half  a  pound 
of  bacon  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire ;  when  *»bout 
half  fried  add  the  beans,  mix  and  stir  for  one  minute,  then 
put  in  a  warm  oven  for  about  twenty  minutes,  sti,Ting 


VEGETABLES.  311 

occasionally;  when  done,  sprinkle  on  it  some  parsley 
chopped  fine,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  if  not  salt  enough. 
There  are  several  ways  of  preparing  "  pork  and  beans," 
but  the  one  we  give  above  is  the  most  general  in  New 
England.  The  pork  must  neither  be  too  fat  nor  too  'can. 
It  may  be  done  also  with  ham  and  fresh  pork. 

With  Mutton. — Boil  as  directed  about  three  pints  of 
white  beans  and  drain  them.  When  the  leg  of  mutton  is 
about  half  roasted,  put  the  beans  in  the  dripping-pan,  and 
stir  occasionally  till  the  meat  is  done,  and  serve  them  with 
it.  It  makes  a  very  nourishing  dish,  but  it  would  be 
rather  heavy  for  persons  having  sedentary  avocations. 
Two  quarts  of  beans  would  not  be  too  much  for  a  good- 
sized  leg  of  mutton.  It  may  also  be  prepared  with  any 
other  piece  of  mutton  ;  shoulder,  saddle,  etc. 

Boiled  with  Mutton  or  Pork. — Prepare  a  quart  of  beans 
as  directed,  and  then  boil  them  ten  minutes  and  drain 
them.  Cut  in  rather  large  dice  about  two  pounds  of 
breast  or  neck  of  mutton  or  the  same  of  pork,  and  of  the 
same  pieces,  and  put  meat  and  beans  in  a  stewpan,  cover 
well  with  cold  water ;  season  with  a  bunch  of  seasonings 
composed  of  five  or  six  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a 
bay-leaf,  and  two  cloves,  salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg 
grated,  a  carrot  cut  in  three  or  four  pieces,  two  onions, 
and  a  piece  of  turnip.  Boil  gently  till  the  whole  is 
thoroughly  cooked;  remove  the  seasonings,  and  serve 
meat  and  beans  together.  This  makes  also  a  nourishing 
dish  and  not  an  expensive  one.  The  nutritive  qualities 
of  beans  are  very  well  known,  and  very  much  exaggerated 
too.  Even  Professor  Liebig  once  said  that  "  four  quarts 
of  beans  and  two  pounds  of  corned  beef  or  pork  boiled 
to  rags,  in  fifty  quarts  of  water,  will  furnish  a  good  meal 
for  forty  men." 


312  VEGETABLES. 

We  must  say  that  we  have  not  been  able  to  try  the 
experiment,  but  we  should  like  very  much  to  see  what 
kind  and  how  much  work  forty  men  would  do,  and  for  how 
.ong,  with  such  a  diet.  There  are  many  things  that  look 
or  seem  well,  and  even  magnificent  in  theory,  though  en- 
tirely impracticable.  It  sounds  well,  especially  to  those 
who  do  not  understand  the  meaning  of  it,  to  say  that  we 
feed  mostly  on  gluten,  albumen,  gelatine,  etc.,  and  that  we 
require  so  many  ounces  of  carbon,  oxygen,  etc.,  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  Every  thing  that  we  eat  may  be,  with  the 
exception  of  salt,  turned  into  charcoal ;  but  no  one  has  yet 
been  known  to  feed  on  it. 

Colored  Beans,  stewed. — Soak,  boil  five  minutes,  and 
drain  a  quart  of  beans.  Put  in  a  stewpan  half  a  pound  of 
bacon  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  five  minutes  after,  put  the 
beans  in,  with  four  small  onions,  salt,  and  pepper,  boil 
gently  till  cooked,  and  drain.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  same  of  chopped  parsley,  then  the 
beans,  without  the  bacon  and  onions  ;  toss  now  and  then 
for  ten  minutes,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  claret  wine,  the 
same  of  the  water  in  which  they  were  cooked,  boil  gently 
twenty  minutes ;  then  put  in  it  also  the  bacon  and  onions, 
boil  five  minutes  longer,  and  serve  the  whole  on  the  same 
dish. 

Beets,  stewed. — Clean  and  wash  well,  but  do  not  skin 
them.  Put  in  a  crockery  vessel  a  layer  of  rye  straw, 
moisten  it  slightly,  place  the  beets  on  it,  cover  the  vessel, 
and  place  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  five  or  six  hours ;  cool  and 
skin  them.  When  cooked,  cut  them  in  thin  slices.  Put 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  melted  sprinkle  in  it  a  pinch 
of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pep- 
per, then  the  beets ;  simmer  twenty  minutes,  add  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar,  and  serve. 


VEGETABLES.  313 

Cabbages — to  boil. — Take  off  the  outer  leaves,  clean,  cat 
in  four  pieces,  free  it  from  stump  and  stalk,  and  drop  it  in 
boiling  water  with  a  little  salt  and  a  piece  of  charcoal. 
Boil  slowly  till  tender,  and  drain.  Cabbage  contains  some 
sulphur,  and  evaporates  an  unpleasant  odor  while  boiling, 
and  especially  while  boiling  fast.  By  putting  a  piece  of 
charcoal  in  the  pot,  it  does  not  smell  as  much. 

With  Bacon. — When  boiled  and  drained,  put  the  cab- 
bage in  a  stewpan  with  bacon,  sausage,  and  a  piece  of 
breast  of  mutton  ;  cover  with  cold  water,  season  with  three 
or  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  a  carrot,  a  clove,  a  little  nutmeg, 
salt  and  pepper ;  boil  till  the  whole  is  well  cooked,  remove 
the  seasonings  and  drain ;  dish  the  cabbage,  put  the  meat 
on  it,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Milk,  or  a  la  Creme. — Boil  and  drain  the  cab- 
bage as  directed  above.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  set  it  on  a  good  fire,  and  when  melted  put  the 
cabbage  in  with  salt  and  pepper.  Sprinkle  on  it  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour,  add  half  a  pint  of  cream  or  good  milk ; 
keep  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  during  the  whole  pro- 
cess ;  boil  gently  till  the  sauce  is  reduced,  and  serve  warm. 

Stewed. — Boil  and  drain  two  large  heads  of  cabbage, 
and  cut  them  very  fine.  Put  about  three  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  put  the  cab- 
bage in  and  stir  for  five  minutes ;  then  add  salt,  pepper, 
and  a  pinch  of  flour ;  wet  with  a  pint  of  broth,  boil  till 
cooked  and  the  sauce  reduced,  then  serve  warm. 

A  VAllemande. — Blanch  for  ten  minutes  some  white  or 
green  cabbage  and  drain  it.  Put  six  ounces  of  salt  pork, 
cut  in  dice,  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  partly 
fried  put  two  or  three  small  heads  of  cabbage  in,  stir,  and 
•when  done,  add  a  little  gravy,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Apples.-— Blanch  for  about  ten  minutes  a  head 
14 


314  VEGETABLES. 

of  cabbage  and  drain  it.  Pt»t  two  or  three  ounces  of  bat- 
ter in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  put  the  cabbage  in  when 
the  butter  is  melted  with  four  or  five  apples  peeled,  quar- 
tered, and  cored;  also  a  little  salt  and  a  little  sugar,  about 
half  a  pint  of  water  or  broth,  boil  gently  till  done,  and 
serve  as  warm  as  possible.  Generally,  cabbages  are  better 
when  prepared  at  least  one  day  in  advance,  and  then 
warmed  in  a  bain-marie  before  serving ;  a  little  butter  may  be 
added  while  it  is  warming.  Any  kind  of  cabbage  is  pre- 
pared as  directed  in  the  above  ways. 

Red  Cabbage  in  Salad. — Take  a  hard  head  of  red  cab- 
bage, and  when  all  the  outer  leaves  are  removed,  see  if  it 
is  clean,  but  do  not  wash  it ;  if  a  cabbage  is  not  clean,  do 
not  use  it  for  salad  (as  you  want  a  hard  one,  and  a  hard 
one  is  always  clean  when  the  outer  leaves  are  taken  off). 
Then  cut  it  in  four  pieces,  trim  off  the  stump  and  coarse 
ends  of  the  leaves ;  cut  it  as  thin  as  possible,  as  in  making 
sour-krout,  put  it  in  a  crockery  vessel,  with  salt,  vinegar, 
and  pepper  sprinkled  on,  cover  and  leave  thus  from  four 
to  six  hours ;  then  throw  away  the  water  or  vinegar,  dress 
as  another  salad,  with  oil  and  vinegar,  and  serve. 

The  same,  stewed. — Blanch  the  cabbage  for  about  ten 
minutes  and  drain  it ;  then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  about 
an  ounce  of  butter  and  stir  for  five  minutes,  when  add  a 
little  salt,  a  little  sugar,  a  gill  of  claret  wine,  and  same  of 
broth  or  water.  Boil  gently  till  done,  and  serve. 

Stuffed. — Remove  the  outer  leaves  of  either  a  green, 
white,  or  red  cabbage,  see  that  it  be  clean,  then  put  it  in  a 
bowl,  and  pour  boiling  water  on  it.  Leave  it  so  till  the 
caves  are  soft  and  pliable,  when  take  off  and  drain.  Cut 
off  the  stump  carefully,  place  the  cabbage  on  the  table, 
the  top  upward,  then  open  it  gently  by  spreading  the 
leaves  all  around  without  breaking  them ;  then,  com- 


VEGETABLES.  315 

mencing  with  the  centre  leaves,  put  some  sausage-meat 
between  the  leaves,  finishing  with  the  outer  ones  and 
raising  them ;  that  is,  bringing  the  cabbage  to  its  original 
shape  as  much  as  possible,  and  then  tie  it  all  around  with 
twine.  Put  in  a  saucepan  large  enough  to  hold  the  cab- 
bage easily,  but  not  too  large,  a  little  salt  pork,  cut  in 
small  dice,  rind  of  salt  pork  and  trimmings  of  butcher's- 
meat  that  you  may  have,  but  if  none  at  all,  put  a  little 
lean  salt  pork  or  bacon,  and  cut  in  dice  also,  half  a  carrot 
in  slices,  two  onions  in  slices  also,  and  then  the  cabbage 
on  the  whole.  Half  cover  it  with  broth  ;  water  may  be 
used  instead  of  broth,  but  it  makes  a  very  inferior  dish, 
while  with  broth  it  is  unquestionably  an  excellent  one  for 
those  who  like  cabbages.  Simmer  for  two  or  three  hours, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  cabbage.  A  piece  of  sausage 
may  be  placed  on  the  cabbage  also  and  cooked  with  it. 
Then  dish  the  cabbage,  remove  the  twine  tying  it ;  place 
the  sausage  around  and  also  the  salt  pork  if  liked,  strain 
the  sauce  on  the  whole,  and  serve  warm.  If  the  water  or 
broth  boils  away  while  it  is  cooking,  add  more. 

Sour-krout. — Soak  in  cold  water  for  some  time,  chang- 
ing the  water  three  or  four  times ;  then  put  it  in  a  stewpan 
•with  a  pound  of  bacon,  two  ounces  of  sausages,  and  two 
ounces  of  lard  to  every  quart  of  sour-krout,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  wet  with  broth,  or  with  water,  boil  from  five  to  six 
hours,  and  serve  with  the  bacon  and  sausages  on  it  When 
cooked  as  above,  but  with  water  instead  of  broth,  drain  it 
well,  put  the  bacon  and  sausages  away  in  a  warm  place ; 
then  put  the  sour-krout  in  a  stewpan  with  about  one  pint 
of  white  wine  to  a  quart  of  sour-krout,  set  it  on  the  fire  and 
boil  gently  till  the  wine  is  nearly  all  absorbed  or  boiled 
away.  Serve  as  above  with  the  bacon  and  sausages  on  it. 
It  is  almost  always  prepared  with  wine  in  many  parts  of 
Germany. 


316  VEGETABLES. 

Cardoons. — The  white  part  only  is  good  to  eat.  Clean 
well  and  scrape  the  sides ;  cut  in  pieces  two  inches  and  a 
half  in  length,  and  throw  them  in  boiling  water  with  a  lit- 
tle salt ;  boil  them  till  their  sliminess  comes  off  easily ; 
then  take  from  the  fire,  pour  cold  water  in,  and  by  means 
of  a  towel  remove  the  sliminess;  soak  in  cold  water 
and  drain  them.  Lay  a  few  slices  of  bacon  in  a  stewpan, 
place  the  cardoons  on  them,  and  again  lay  slices  of  bacon 
on ;  season  with  two  onions,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of 
thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and  a  clove,  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice 
of  half  a  lemon  ;  cover  with  water  and  set  on  a  good  fire ; 
boil  till  cooked  ;  take  from  the  fire  and  drain  the  cardoons 
only,  throwing  away  the  seasonings.  Put  the  cardoons 
back  in  the  stewpan,  in  which  you  have  left  the  bacon ; 
add  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  and  two  of  Es- 
pagnole  sauce ;  set  on  a  slow  fire,  and  simmer  till  the  sauce 
is  reduced  to  a  proper  thickness.  Have  at  the  same  time 
in  a  pan  on  the  fire  a  piece  of  ox-marrow,  and  when  melted 
mix  it  with  the  sauce  at  the  moment  you  take  the  car- 
doons from  the  fire,  and  serve  hot  either  with  or  without 
the  bacon. 

Carrots — how  to  clean  and  prepare  them. — Trim  off  all 
the  small  roots,  wash  them  well,  scrape  them  gently,  taking 
care  to  scrape  the  skin  only;  then  wash  well,  drain,  and 
cut  them  either  in  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  in  fil- 
lets or  strips,  or  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  according  to 
fancy. 

To  boil. — When  prepared,  put  them  in  a  saucepan 
with  a  little  salt,  more  cold  water  than  is  necessary  to 
cover  them,  set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  till  tender,  and 
drain.  It  is  impossible  to  tell  how  long  it  takes,  as  it  de- 
pends how  young  and  tender  they  are. 

In  Bechamel. — Clean,  cut,  and  boil  about  a  quart  of 


VEGETABLES.  317 

carrots  as  directed  and  drain  them.  Mix  well  together  in 
a  saucepan,  on  the  table,  about  two  ounces  of  butter  with 
a  tablespoon ful  of  flour,  add  about  one  pint  of  milk,  set  on 
the  fire,  stir  slowly  till  it  comes  to  a  boil,  when  turn  the 
carrots  in,  stir  for  about  one  minute,  add  also  a  little  salt, 
same  of  sugar,  two  yolks  of  eggs ;  stir  and  mix  well,  give 
one  boil,  and  serve  warm. 

A  la  Creme,  or  with  Cream. — Proceed  as  for  a  Becha- 
mel in  every  particular  except  that  you  use  cream  instead 
of  milk. 

In  Poulette. — Proceed  as  in  Bechamel  with  the  excep- 
tion that  you  use  broth  instead  of  milk,  and  add  a  little 
parsley,  chopped  fine,  just  before  serving. 

fines  Herbcs. — Clean,  cut,  and  boil  as  directed,  about 
a  quart  of  carrots.  Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  it,  and  when  melted  fry  in  it  a  piece 
of  onion  chopped  fine.  When  the  onion  is  fried  add  a 
pint  of  broth  or  water ;  boil  about  five  minutes,  put  the 
carrots  in  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  give  one 
boil,  take  from  the  fire,  add  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice, 
and  serve  as  warm  as  possible,  with  salt  to  taste. 

Aujvs. — Proceed  as  for  fines  herbes,  except  that  you 
do  not  use  onions,  and  put  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  gravy. 

Glazed. — Clean,  cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  and  boil 
as  directed,  about  a  quart  of  carrots,  and  dram  them. 
Put  three  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  set  it  on 
the  fire.  As  soon  as  the  butter  is  melted  turn  the  carrots 
in,  toss  gently  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then  add  a  little 
over  a  gill  of  rich  gravy,  sugar  to  taste,  toss  again  now 
and  then  till  the  gravy  is  half  boiled  away,  and  use. 
Glazed  carrots  are  seldom  served  alone,  but  most  generally 
used  as  garnishing  around  a  piece  of  meat. 

Stewed. — Clean,  and  cut  carrots  in  slices,  and  then 


318  VEGETABLES. 

blanch  them  for  about  five  minutes,  and  drain  them.  Set 
a  stewpan  on  the  fire  with  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in 
it ;  as  soon  as  melted  put  the  carrots  in  with  salt,  pep- 
per, a  pinch  of  sugar,  half  a  pint  of  broth ;  boil  gently 
till  cooked,  take  from  the  fire,  add  and  mix  with  the  car- 
rots a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Sugar. — Clean  and  slice  about  a  quart  of  car- 
rots, and  blanch  them  for  five  minutes,  and  then  drain 
them.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  set  it 
on  a  good  fire,  and  when  melted  lay  the  carrots  in  with 
gait,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  about  half  a 
pint  of  broth ;  sprinkle  in  it,  while  stirring  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  about  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  boil  gently  till 
cooked.  Take  from  the  fire,  mix  a  good  tablespoonful  of 
sugar  with  two  yolks  of  eggs,  and  those  again  with  the 
rest,  and  serve. 

Cauliflowers  and  Broccoli — how  to  prepare  and  cook 
them  in  water. — Clean  and  wash  them  well,  throw  into  boil- 
ing water  with  a  little  salt  and  a  little  flour,  boil  till  cooked, 
and  drain  them. 

How  to  serve  with  Cheese. — Put  them  on  a  crockery 
dish  when  prepared ;  pour  on  a  white  sauce,  in  which 
you  have  mixed  a  little  grated  cheese  ;  then  dust  the  whole 
with  fine  bread-crumbs ;  after  which  you  take  a  soft  brush 
or  a  feather,  which  you  dip  in  lukewarm  butter,  and  put 
a  thin  coat  of  it  all  over  the  cauliflowers ;  then  place  the 
dish  in  a  quick  oven  for  ten  minutes,  and  serve  as  they 
are,  i.  e.,  in  the  dish  in  which  they  have  been  cooked. 
This  is  also  called  au  gratin. 

In  Bechamel. — Boil  the  cauliflowers  till  done  to  your 
taste,  drain  immediately  and  place  them  on  the  dish,  the 
top  upward.  While  it  is  boiling  make  a  Bechamel  sauce 
and  turn  it  over  the  cauliflowers  as  soon  as  dished,  and 


VEGETABLES.  319 

serve  as  warm  as  possible.  Cauliflower,  like  asparagus, 
Las  a  better  taste  when  rather  underdone;  it  is  more 
crisp. 

Au  Beurre  Noir  (with  Brown  Butter). — When  boiled, 
drained,  and  dished,  turn  a  brown  butter  over  them,  and 
serve  warm. 

With  a  Cream- Sauce. — Clean,  prepare,  boil,  and  drain 
the  cauliflowers  as  directed  above,  then  dish  them  also  with 
the  top  upward.  While  they  are  boiling,  make  a  cream- 
sauce  and  turn  it  over  the  cauliflowers  as  soon  as  they  are 
dished,  and  serve  warm.  As  they  must  be  served  warm, 
if  the  sauce  is  ready  before  the  cauliflowers  are  cooked, 
keep  it  in  a  bain-marie  ;  if  the  cauliflowers  are  cooked  be- 
fore the  sauce  is  ready,  keep  them  in  a  warm  place. 

With  a  White  Sauce. — Proceed  as  with  a  cream-sauce 
in  every  particular,  turning  a  white  instead  of  a  cream- 
sauce  over  them  ;  serve  warm. 

Fried. — Clean,  prepare,  and  boil  them  for  about  five 
minutes,  that  is,  till  they  are  about  half  cooked;  then  dip 
them  in  batter  for  frying  vegetables,  and  fry  them  in  hot 
fat.  Take  them  off  with  a  skimmer,  turn  them  into  a 
colander,  sprinkle  salt  all  over,  and  serve  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible. They  are  excellent  fried,  but  they  must  not  be  al- 
lowed to  cool 

With  a  Tomato- Sauce. — Commence  by  making  a  to- 
mato-sauce, as  it  requires  longer  than  preparing  the  cauli- 
flowers. When  the  sauce  is  nearly  made,  boil  the  cauli- 
flower as  directed,  dish  it,  and  then  turn  the  sauce  over 
it,  and  serve  warm. 

Au  jus,  or  stewed. — Prepare,  boil  the  cauliflowers  till 
half  done,  and  drain  them.  Place  them  carefully  in  a  stew- 
pan,  the  top  upward,  and  set  on  the  fire  with  a  little  fat 
The  fire  must  be  rather  slow.  Stir  gently  and  very  carefully 


320  VEGETABLES. 

in  order  not  to  break  them,  and,  about  five  minutes  aftei 
they  are  on  the  fire,  add  half  a  gill  of  broth  for  a  middling- 
sized  cauliflower,  salt,  and  pepper ;  simmer  till  done,  stir- 
ring now  and  then  during  the  process ;  dish  them,  turn 
the  sauce  all  over,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Salad. — When  boiled  and  drained,  leave  them  in 
the  colander  till  perfectly  cold,  then  put  them  in  the  salad- 
dish  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  oil,  move  carefully  in 
order  not  to  break  it,  and  serve.  A  salad  of  cauliflowers 
is  not  served  as  a  salad  of  greens,  but  as  an  entremet,  like 
other  vegetables,  and  as  if  prepared  in  any  other  way. 
It  is  an  excellent  dish  for  breakfast. 

Celery — stewed. — Cut  off  the  green  part  or  top  of 
about  half  a  dozen  heads  of  celery ;  cleanse  and  trim 
them,  but  leave  them  whole.  Set  a  saucepan  of  cold 
water  and  a  little  salt  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boil  drop 
the  heads  of  celery  in,  boil  till  tender  and  drain.  Put  the 
celery  back  in  the  pan  with  about  half  a  pint  of  broth ; 
boil  gently  about  five  minutes,  when  add  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  good  meat-gravy,  a  teaspoonful  of 
meuniere,  salt  to  taste,  give  one  boil,  and  serve  warm. 

Fried. — Cut  the  celery  in  pieces  about  two  inches 
long,  wash,  drain,  and  wipe  dry.  Dip  them  in  batter  for 
frying  vegetables,  drop  in  hot  fat,  and  turn  them  into  a 
colander  when  fried ;  sprinkle  salt  over,  and  serve  hot. 
Soup  or  turnip-rooted  celery,  after  being  cleaned  and  prop- 
erly scraped,  is  prepared  like  table  celery  as  above,  either 
stewed  or  fried. 

Ckiccory. — Chiccory,  or  succory,  or  endive,  is  gener- 
ally prepared  as  a  salad,  if  :t  be  that  with  the  broad  leaves, 
or  the  curled  endive. 

Stewed. — Clean,  wash,  and  drain  it.  Blanch  it  for 
about  one  minute,  and  drain  again.  Then  put  it  in  a 


VEGETABLES.  321 

stewpan  with  a  little  broth,  and  simmer  till  cooked ;  then 
add  a  little  gravy,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  serve.  It 
makes  a  good  entremet.  The  wild  chiccory  is  prepared  in 
the  same  way. 

With  Milk. — Remove  the  outer  leaves  and  see  that 
it  is  perfectly  clean,  cut  in  two  or  four,  wash  well  in 
several  waters,  and  throw  into  boiling  water  with  a  little 
salt ;  boil  half  an  hour,  take  it  out,  throw  into  cold  water, 
leave  two  minutes,  and  drain ;  press  on  it  the  drainer  so 
as  to  extract  all  the  water  from  it,  after  which  chop  it  fine. 
Put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan ;  when 
melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  also  salt  and 
pepper ;  then  put  the  endive  in,  say  three  or  four  heads, 
stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  for  ten  minutes,  after  which  time 
you  beat  two  eggs  with  milk,  and  put  them  in  the  stew- 
pan ;  keep  stirring  fifteen  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Com— sweet. — The  simplest  and  best  way  is  to  boil 
it,  and  then  eat  it  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper.  When 
boiled  with  any  meat-soup,  or  with  pot-au-feu,  it  is  deli- 
cious to  eat,  and  gives  a  good  taste  to  the  broth ;  it  is 
also  eaten  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  as  above. 

Stewed. — Shell  it  and  then  drop  it  in  boiling  water 
and  a  little  salt,  boil  till  nearly  done ;  then  drain  and  put 
it  back  on  the  fire  with  a  little  broth ;  boil  gently  for 
about  ten  minutes,  add  a  little  gravy,  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Succotash. — This  popular  Indian  dish,  is  very  sim- 
ply made  by  boiling  com  and  green  Lima  beans  together, 
with  salt  and  pepper.  The  two  can  be  prepared  together 
as  stewed  corn,  but  it  makes  a  very  inferior  dish. 

Cucumbers. — Peel  them,  split  them  in  four,  take  the 
seeds  out,  cut  in  pieces  about  one  inch  long,  throw  them 
into  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt ;  boil  till  cooked,  drain, 
14* 


322  VEGETABLES. 

and  put  them  on  a  towel  so  as  to  dry  them  well ;  then  put 
butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when 
hot,  put  in  it  some  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper,  two 
minutes  after  put  the  cucumbers  in  it,  fry  a  few  minutes, 
tossing  them  BOW  and  then,  and  serve. 

The  same,  stewed. — Cook  in  boiling  water,  and  dry 
them  as  above ;  then  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little 
butter  kneaded  with  flour,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch 
of  grated  nutmeg;  moisten  with  broth,  simmer  to  reduce 
the  sauce ;  take  from  the  fire,  mix  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 
in  the  sauce;  add  to  it  a  few  drops  of  vinegar,  and  serve 
them. 

Stuffed. — Soak  a  piece  of  bread  in  cold  water  and 
then  squeeze  the  water  out  of  it,  the  size  to  be  according  to 
how  many  cucumbers  are  to  be  stuffed,  or  how  large  they 
are.  Split  large  cucumbers  in  two,  lengthwise,  remove 
the  seeds  and  some  of  the  fleshy  parts  inside,  by  means 
of  a  small  iron  spoon.  Put  a  little  butter  in  a  saucepan 
on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  fry  in  it  a  piece  of  chopped 
onion.  When  the  onion  is  fried,  put  in  the  pan  what 
you  have  removed  from  the  inside  of  the  cucumbers,  and 
which  you  have  chopped  a  little,  stir  for  about  five  min- 
utes, and  then  add  the  soaked  bread,  stir  and  mix  well 
with  the  rest ;  add  also  salt,  pepper,  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg  and  a  little  gravy ;  stir  again  for  about  one  minute, 
take  from  the  fire ;  fill  the  cucumbers,  that  is,  each  half 
with  the  mixture ;  place  them  in  a  pan,  the  mixture  up- 
ward ;  dust  with  bread-crumbs,  put  a  little  butter  on  the 
top  of  each,  and  bake.  Before  serving,  a  little  gravy  may 
be  sprinkled  all  over ;  serve  warm. 

In  Hors-d'oeuvre. — Peel  the  cucumbers,  cut  them  in 
slices  slantwise,  and  salt  them  for  two  or  three  hours. 
Drain  them,  and  then  season  with  oil,  vinegar,  pepper, 
and  parsley  chopped  fine. 


VEGETABLES.  323 

Pickled  cucumbers  are  served  whole  with  small  onions, 
also  pickled,  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre* 

Dandelion. — Dandelion  is  a  very  healthy  greens  in  the 
spring,  either  cooked  or  raw.  Clean  and  wash  them  well 
several  times,  as  it  nearly  always  contains  fine  sand  be- 
tween the  leaves ;  leave  them  in  cold  water  about  two 
hours,  and  drain  them ;  throw  them  into  boiling  water  and 
salt ;  boil  twenty  minutes  if  young,  and  thirty  minutes  if 
full  grown ;  then  put  them  in  a  colander,  press  on  them 
so  as  to  extract  all  the  water,  after  which  chop  them  fine; 
put  about  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan,  for  two 
quarts,  and  set  it  on  a  quick  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in 
it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  salt  and  pepper,  then  put  the  dan- 
delion in,  stir  for  ten  minutes,  after  which  wet  it  with 
broth ;  keep  stirring  for  about  fifteen  minutes  longer,  and 
serve. 

Egg-Plant — broiled. — Split  the  egg-plant  in  two 
lengthwise,  peel  it  and  remove  the  seed.  Put  it  in  a 
crockery  vessel  and  sprinkle  salt  on  it ;  leave  it  thus  near- 
ly an  hour,  then  take  it  off,  dip  it  in  egg  beaten  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  chopped  parsley,  then  boil  it ;  serve  with  a 
maitre  d"1  hotel  sauce. 

Fried. — Peel  and  cut  in  slices,  lay  the  slices  in  a  ves- 
sel, sprinkling  salt  over  every  layer,  and  leave  thus  half 
an  hour  and  drain.  Dip  the  slices  in  batter  for  frying 
vegetables,  drop  them  in  hot  fat,  and  turn  them  into  a 
colander  when  fried ;  sprinkle  salt  all  over,  and  serve. 

Saute. — Put  the  slices  with  salt  half  an  hour  in  a 
vessel  as  directed  in  the  above.  Drain  them,  and  then 
fry  them  on  both  sides  with  a  little  butter  in  a  frying-pan. 
Serve  warm,  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 

Stuffed. — Proceed  as  for  stuffed  cucumbers  in  every 
particular. 


324:  VEGETABLES. 

Hominy. — Hominy  is  prepared  in  different  ways, 
some  make  it  in  cakes,  others  like  mush.  The  following 
is,  however,  the  general  way  of  preparing  it :  boil  it  for 
about  three  hours  with  water  or  milk,  also  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper ;  then  mix  with  it  some  well-beaten  eggs,  fry  or 
broil,  or  even  cook  it  in  an  oven,  and  serve  for  breakfast. 

Leeks. — Clean,  wash,  and  drain ;  throw  them  in  boil- 
ing water  with  a  little  salt,  boil  fifteen  minutes,  and  drain ; 
press  on  them  in  the  drainer,  so  as  to  extract  all  the  water, 
then  chop  them  fine.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan  ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
salt,  and  pepper,  then  add  the  leeks.  Stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  for  ten  minutes  ;  after  that  beat  two  eggs  with  milk, 
and  put  them  in  a  stewpan  ;  keep  stirring  fifteen  minutes 
longer,  and  serve. 

Lentils. — This  excellent  vegetable,  much  superior  to 
beans  or  peas,  is  not  generally  known.  Most  of  what  we 
have  here  comes  from  Germany ;  a  little  comes  from  France 
and  Switzerland.  Many  persons  think  them  much  dearer 
than  beans  or  peas,  not  knowing  that  they  swell  three 
or  four  times  their  size  when  soaked  in  water  before  cook- 
ing them.  They  are  prepared  like  dry  beans  in  every 
way.  A  puree  of  lentils  is  excellent  with  almost  every 
kind  of  meat,  and  it  also  makes  a  good  potage.  It  has  all 
the  nutritive  qualities  of  the  bean. 

Lettuce. — Cos  lettuce,  cabbage  lettuce,  butter  lettuce, 
curled  Silesia,  white  or  green  lettuce,  etc.  Besides  being 
served  as  salad,  all  the  above,  when  properly  dressed, 
make  an  excellent  entremet. 

To  prepare. — Take  off  the  outer  leaves,  that  is,  all 
those  that  are  too  green  or  too  hard,  then  clean  and 
wash  well,  but  without  cutting  it  off,  or  without  detach- 
ing the  leaves.  To  stew  lettuce,  select  hard  heads,  so  that 


VEGETABLES.  325 

they  can  be  cleansed  without  detaching  the  leaves.  When 
cleaned,  drop  the  heads  in  boiling  water  and  a  little  salt, 
boil  about  five  or  ten  minutes,  according  to  how  tender 
the  lettuce  is,  and  drain  dry. 

Stewed. — When  cleaned  and  prepared,  sprinkle  on  the 
top  of  each,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  then 
tie  each  head  with  a  string.  Place  in  a  stewpan  two  or 
three  slices  of  bacon,  put  the  heads  of  lettuce  in,  season 
with  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf,  and 
a  clove,  also  salt  and  pepper ;  cover  with  water,  and  sim- 
mer about  two  hours  in  an  oven ;  then  take  them  from 
the  pan,  drain,  pressing  on  them  to  extract  all  the  water, 
and  put  them  on  a  dish,  the  top  upward.  Have  butter  in 
a  stewpan,  and  on  a  good  fire ;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in 
it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon ; 
subdue  the  fire,  add  a  little  milk,  and  stir  and  simmer  ten 
minutes  longer ;  take  from  the  fire,  mix  in  the  beaten  yolks 
of  two  eggs,  pour  it  on  the  lettuce,  which  you  have  kept 
warm,  and  serve. 

Another  way. — When  prepared,  chop  it  fine.  Pnt  in 
a  stewpan,  for  four  heads  of  lettuce,  three  ounces  of  but- 
ter, and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  put  the  lettuce 
in  with  a  little  chopped  chervil,  stir  now  and  then  till 
cooked ;  then  sprinkle  in  it  a  pinch  of  flour,  wet  with 
broth,  boil  ten  minutes  longer,  keeping  it  stirred,  and 
serve.  (For  a  salad  of  lettuce,  see  SALAD.) 

Stuffed. — Proceed  as  for  a  stuffed  cabbage. 

Mushrooms. — Preserved  mushrooms  are  used  for 
sauces  only.  The  first  thing  to  consider  very  attentively 
in  mushrooms  is,  not  to  eat  any  that  you  do  not  know  to 
be  good  to  eat.  There  are  so  many  kinds  of  good  and 
bad  ones,  that  it  is  necessary  to  be  very  careful  about  even 
the  edible  ones,  or  the  ones  known  as  such  when  young ; 


326  VEGETABLES. 

it  is  better  and  safer  never  to  use  them  when  old  ;  they 
are  considered  old  when  the  comb  underneath  is  black  be- 
fore picking,  while  when  young  it  is  of  a  pink  color. 

How  to  clean  and  prepare  them. — Cut  off  the  lower 
part  of  the  stem;  skin  them  with  a  steel  knife,  commen- 
cing at  the  edge  and  finishing  at  the  top ;  cut  in  pieces, 
put  them  in  cold  water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar ;  leave  them  in  it  two  hours,  moving 
them  occasionally  ;  then  wash  well  in  two  or  three  waters, 
and  drain. 

When  cleaned  and  prepared  thus,  they  are  ready  to 
be  used  in  sauces,  or  to  cook. 

Broiled. — If  you  have  large  mushrooms,  clean  and 
prepare  as  above,  except  that  you  do  not  cut  them  ;  but 
when  drained,  put  them  upside  down  on  a  greased  grid- 
iron, and  on  a  moderate  fire ;  place  a  little  butter  around 
the  stem  upon  the  comb,  and  when  done  place  them  on 
a  dish  which  you  have  warmed  in  advance,  and  in  the 
same  position  they  had  on  the  gridiron ;  put  again  around 
the  stem  some  butter  kneaded  with  a  little  chopped  pars- 
ley, salt,  and  pepper,  and  serve.  They  must  be  served 
warm. 

As  an  ornament,  you  may  make,  with  common  white 
note-paper,  as  many  little  square  boxes  as  you  have  mush- 
rooms to  broil ;  grease  them  with  butter,  put  the  mush- 
rooms in,  set  them  on  the  gridiron,  and  on  a  moderate 
fire,  and  serve  them  in  the  boxes  when  done. 

The  same,  stewed. — When  cleaned  and  prepared  as 
directed,  and  drained,  throw  a  quart  of  them  in  boiling 
water,  to  which  you  have  added  a  few  drops  of  vinegar ; 
boil  five  minutes,  take  them  out,  put  them  in  cold  water 
to  cool,  drain  and  dry  them  in  a  towel.  Put  two  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  when 


VEGETABLES.  327 

melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  pinch  of  flour,  add  also  a  sprig  of 
parsley,  two  small  onions,  a  little  piece  of  carrot,  a  bay- 
leaf,  salt,  and  pepper,  cover  with  broth,  and  boil  till  the 
onions  are  cooked ;  then  take  from  the  pan  onions,  pars- 
ley, and  bay-leaf,  and  put  the  mushrooms  in  instead  ;  boil 
slowly  about  twenty  minutes,  take  from  the  fire,  add  to 
the  sauce  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well  beaten  with  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar,  and  serve  warm. 

Mushroom  Catsup. — Clean  and  wash  them  well,  stems 
and  all ;  cut  them  in  two  or  four  pieces ;  then  place  the 
pieces  in  a  crockery  vessel,  sprinkling  salt  on  every  layer 
of  mushrooms,  and  leave  thus  twenty-four  hours.  Take 
them  out  and  press  them  well,  so  as  to  take  all  the  juice 
out,  which  you  bottle  at  once,  and  cork.  Put  the  mush- 
rooms back  in  the  vessel,  and  twenty-four  hours  after  press 
them  again ;  and  again  put  the  juice  in  bottles,  and  the 
mushrooms  in  the  vessel,  and  repeat  this  process  again 
after  another  twenty-four  hours.  Then  mix  well  together 
the  juice  of  the  three  pressings ;  add  to  it  pepper,  allspice, 
one  clove  (or  more,  according  to  the  quantity)  broken  in 
pieces ;  boil  the  whole,  skim  off  the  scum  as  long  as  you 
see  any  on  the  surface,  and  strain.  Bottle  when  cool ; 
put  in  each  bottle  two  cloves  and  a  pepper-corn,  cork  air- 
tight, put  in  a  cool  and  dry  place,  and  it  will  keep  for 
years. 

Dried. — Dried  mushrooms  are  imported  from  Italy, 
they  come  cheaper  than  the  preserved  ones  in  cans,  and 
are  as  good  for  brown  sauces.  Soak  them  in  water  over 
night ;  drain  them,  and  they  are  ready  for  use. 

Onions  &  la  Creme. — (With  Cream.) — Only  small 
white  onions  are  prepared  a  la  creme.  Have  water  and  a 
jttle  salt  on  the  fire,  and  drop  two  dozen  small  white 
onions  into  it  at  the  first  boil.  When  cooked,  drain, 


328  VEGETABLES. 

and  wipe  tliem  dry  carefully,  in  order  not  to  bruise  them. 
Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  about  two  ounces  of  buttei 
in  it,  and  when  melted  put  the  onions  in,  stirring  gently 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  then  turn  about  a  gill  of  cream 
in,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while,  and  as  soon  as  the 
whole  is  in  take  from  the  fire,  salt  to  taste,  and  serve  hot. 

Glazed. — Peel  a  dozen  of  middling-sized  onions  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  set 
them  on  a  slow  fire;  stir  occasionally  till  they  are  about 
three-quarters  done,  when  add  about  two  ounces  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  stir  now  and  then  and  finish  the  cooking. 
When  done  and  well  browned  all  around,  add  one  or  two 
tablespoon fuls  of  good  meat-gravy,  keep  a  few  minutes  on 
a  rather  brisk  fire  in  order  to  reduce  the  sauce,  but  keep 
stirring  and  use.  Onions  prepared  that  way  are  excellent, 
and  generally  used  to  decorate  meat. 

Stewed. — Clean  a  quart  of  small  onions,  throw  them 
in  boiling  water,  add  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme, 
a  clove,  a  bay-leaf,  a  little  piece  of  nutmeg,  a  clove  of  gar- 
lic, salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  twenty  minutes,  drain  the  onions" 
only,  and  throw  away  the  seasonings.  Put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan  on  a  good  fire,  and  when  melted 
sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  then  add  the  onions, 
cover  with  half  broth  and  half  white  wine,  boil  gently  till 
well  cooked  and  the  sauce  reduced,  serve  warm.  It  is  a 
very  wholesome  dish. 

Parsnips. — Sautees. — Scrape,  wash,  drain,  and  put  about 
two  quarts  of  parsnips  in  a  saucepan  with  cold  water  and 
a  little  salt,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  till  done,  then  drain. 
Cut  the  parsnips  in  slices,  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  and  when  melted  put  the  sliced  turnips  in,  toss 
gently  till  they  are  of  a  fine  golden  color,  then  add  salt 
and  pepper  to  taste,  turn  over  a  dish,  sprinkle  chopped 
oarsley  all  over,  and  serve  warm. 


VEGETABLES.  329 

Stewed. — Scrape,  clean,  wash,  boil,  and  drain  as  above 
directed,  about  two  quarts  of  parsnips.  Put  them  imme- 
diately into  a  stewpan  with  salt,  pepper,  and  broth  enough 
to  about  half  cover  them,  boil  gently  for  fifteen  minutes, 
and  serve  the  whole  as  it  is.  They  may  also  be  prepared 
in  poulette,  the  same  as  turnips. 

Peas  with  Bacon. — Put  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire  four 
ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice  (for  one  quart  of  peas),  and 
toss  and  fry  it  for  about  five  minutes,  then  add  the  peas 
after  having  blanched  them  from  five  to  ten  minutes,  ac- 
cording to  how  tender  they  are;  stir  for  two  minutes  and 
add  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  water,  also  a  bunch  of  season- 
ings composed  of  two  or  three  sprigs  of  parsley,  half  a  one 
of  thyme,  and  a  piece  of  bay-leaf ;  stir  again  and  mix,  and 
then  add  also  two  or  three  small  onions,  salt,  and  pepper ; 
boil  half  an  hour,  remove  the  seasonings,  and  serve  peas 
and  salt  pork.  A  small  sausage  may  be  added  for  those 
who  like  the  taste  of  it. 

Plain  boiled. — Put  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  water 
and  salt  in  it,  and  at  the  first  boil  drop  two  quarts  of 
peas  in  it;  boil  gently  till  done,  and  then  drain.  As 
soon  as  they  are  in  the  colander,  just  toss  them  a  little, 
turn  them  over  a  dish,  and  put  four  ounces  of  butter  on  the 
top,  salt,  and  pepper,  then  place  the  dish  in  the  oven  with 
the  door  open,  that  is,  just  to  keep  them  warm  and  allow 
the  butter  to  melt,  stir  for  one  or  two  minutes,  and  serve 
warm. 

With  Lettuce. — Blanch  a  quart  of  peas  for  about  five 
minutes,  and  drain  them.  Blanch  a  head  of  lettuce  for  one 
minute.  Put  peas  and  lettuce  in  a  saucepan  with  one 
ounce  of  butter,  stir  gently  on  the  fire  for  about  one  min- 
ute, and  then  add  a  little  broth  or  water,  two  or  three  sprigs 
of  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper;  boil  slowly  till  done,  and 


330  VEGETABLES. 

serve  warm.  The  parsley  may  be  served,  or  removed  just 
before  serving,  according  to  taste.  The  lettuce  is  always 
served  with  the  peas. 

Au  jus. — Boil  the  peas  as  directed  for  plain  boiled, 
then  put  them  back  on  the  fire  with  a  little  butter,  stir  for 
one  minute,  add  about  three  tablespoonfuls  of  gravy  to  a 
quart  of  peas,  salt  and  pepper,  give  one  boil,  and  serve. 

With  Ham. — Blanch  two  quarts  of  peas  and  drain 
them.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pound  of  ham, 
cut  in  dice,  half  cover  them  with  water,  and  boil  gently 
till  done.  If  the  water  boils  away,  add  a  little  more ;  serve 
warm. 

Canned  peas  are  prepared  in  the  same  way  as  above. 

A  VAnglaise. — If  the  peas  are  fresh,  blanch  them  ;  if 
they  are  preserved,  drain  them  only.  Put  the  peas  in  a 
saucepan  with  about  one  ounce  of  butter  for  a  pint,  set  on 
the  fire,  stir  gently  till  thoroughly  warm,  add  chopped 
parsley  and  a  yolk  of  egg,  and  serve. 

Au  Sucre  (with  Sugar). — Set  the  peas  on  the  fire,  the 
same  as  above,  add  about  one  ounce  of  sugar,  stir  also  till 
warm ;  take  from  the  fire,  stir  a  yolk  of  egg  in,  and  serve. 

Dry  Peas  and  Split  Peas. — Dry  and  split  peas  are 
prepared  and  served  in  the  same  and  every  way  like  dry 
beans,  with  the  exception  that  they  require  to  be  soaked 
only  for  a  few  hours  before  cooking  them. 

Potatoes. — To  select. — As  a  general  rule,  the  smaller 
the  eye  the  better  the  potatoes.  By  cutting  off  a  piece 
from  the  larger  end  you  ascertain  if  they  are  sound  ;  they 
must  be  white,  reddish,  bluish,  etc.,  according  to  the 
species.  If  spotted,  they  are  not  sound,  and  therefore 
very  inferior.  There  are  several  kinds,  and  all  of  them 
are  good  when  sound  or  coming  from  a  proper  soil.  Use 
the  kind  you  prefer,  or  those  that  are  better  fit  for  the  way 


VEGETABLES.  331 

they  are  intended  to  be  served.  To  mash  or  to  make  a 
puree,  etc.,  every  kind  is  good.  To  serve  whole  or  in 
dice,  or  in  pieces  like  carpels  of  oranges,  those  called 
Mercers  and  the  like,  are  preferable,  because  they  do  not 
bruise  so  easily. 

To  boil. — Being  naturally  watery,  potatoes  should  never 
be  cooked  by  boiling  except  when  wanted  very  white,  as 
for  croquettes.  When  boiled  whole,  put  them  of  an  even 
size  as  much  as  possible,  in  order  to  cook  them  evenly. 
They  are  better,  more  mealy,  when  steamed  or  baked,  but 
those  who  have  no  steamer  must,  of  course,  boil  them. 
Cover  them  with  cold  water,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  till 
done,  then  pour  off  all  the  water,  put  the  pan  back  on  a 
slow  fire  for  five  minutes  and  well  covered ;  then  use  the 
potatoes. 

To  steam. — Place  them  above  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
in  a  kind  of  drainer  made  for  that  purpose,  and  adapted 
to  the  kettle.  The  drainer  must  be  covered  tight.  They 
cook  as  fast  as  by  boiling,  the  degree  of  heat  being  the 
same.  When  steamed  the  skin  is  very  easily  removed. 

To  prepare. — If  they  are  to  be  boiled,  or  steamed,  or 
baked,  it  is  only  necessary  to  wash  them.  If  wanted 
peeled,  as  for  frying,  etc.,  then  commence  by  cutting  off 
the  germs  or  eyes ;  if  young  and  tender,  take  the  skin  off 
with  a  scrubbing-brush  and  drop  immediately  in  cold 
water  to  keep  them  white  ;  if  old,  scrape  the  skin  off  with 
a  knife,  for  the  part  immediately  under  the  skin  con- 
tains more  nutriment  than  the  middle,  and  drop  in  cold 
water  also.  If  wanted  cut,  either  in  dice,  or  like  carpels 
of  oranges,  or  any  other  way,  cut  them  above  a  bowl  of 
cold  water,  so  that  they  drop  into  it,  for  if  kept  exposed 
to  the  air  they  turn  reddish  and  lose  their  nutritive  quali- 
ties. 


332  VEGETABLES. 

A  FAllemande. — Steam,  peel,  and  slice  the  potatoes. 
Cut  some  bread  in  thin  slices,  and  fry  bread  and  potatoes 
with  a  little  butter  and  turn  the  whole  in  a  bowl,  dust  well 
with  sugar,  pour  a  little  milk  all  over  and  bake  for  about 
fifteen  minutes ;  serve  warm. 

A  VAnglaise. — Steam  or  boil  about  a  quart  of  potatoes 
and  then  peel  and  slice  them.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire,  and  put  the  potatoes  in  when 
melted,  toss  them  for  about  ten  minutes,  add  salt,  pepper, 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  serve  hot. 

A  la  larigoule. — Peel  some  potatoes  and  cook  them 
whole  in  broth ;  when  done  take  them  off  carefully,  so  as 
not  to  break  or  bruise  them,  and  drain.  Have  some  oil 
in  a  frying-pan  and  on  a  quick  fire,  and  when  hot  lay  the 
potatoes  in ;  move  gently  to  fry  them  all  around,  and  then 
dish  them,  sprinkling  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar,  all  over ; 
serve  warm. 

Bechamel. — Steam  or  boil  and  peel  some  potatoes, 
then  slice  them  and  place  on  a  dish ;  have  a  Bechamel 
sauce  ready,  turn  it  over  the  potatoes,  and  serve  warm. 

Broiled. — Steam,  peel  and  slice  the  potatoes.  Lay  the 
slices  on  a  gridiron,  and  place  it  over  a  rather  slow  fire ; 
have  melted  butter,  and  spread  some  over  the  slices  of 
potatoes  with  a  brush ;  as  soon  as  the  under  part  is  broiled, 
turn  each  slice  over  and  spread  butter  over  the  other  side. 
When  done,  dish,  salt,  and  serve  them  hot.  A  little  butter 
may  be  added  when  dished,  according  to  taste. 

A  la  Parisienne. — Chop  an  onion  fine  and  partly  fry 
it  with  butter,  then  put  in  it  some  potatoes  cut  in  dice, 
add  a  little  water  or  broth,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  gently 
till  done,  take  from  the  fire,  add  chopped  parsley,  and 
serve. 

Fried. — To  be  fried,  the  potatoes  are  cut  either  with  a 


DEPARTMHN 


VEGETABLES.  333 

vegetable  spoon,  in  fillets,  in  slices,  with  a  scalloped  knife, 
or  with  an  ordinary  one,  or  cut  in  pieces  like  carpels  of 
oranges,  or  even  in  dice.  When  cut,  drain  and  wipe  them 
dry.  This  must  be  done  quickly,  so  as  not  to  allow  the 
potatoes  to  turn  reddish.  Have  a  coarse  towel  ready,  then 
turn  the  potatoes  into  a  colander,  and  immediately  turn 
them  in  the  towel,  shake  them  a  little,  and  quickly  drop 
them  in  hot  fat.  (See  FRYING.)  When  done,  turn  them 
into  a  colander,  sprinkle  salt  on  them,  and  serve  hot.  Bear 
in  mind  that  fried  potatoes  must  be  eaten  as  hot  as  possi- 
ble. Fry  only  one  size  at  a  time,  as  it  takes  three  times 
as  long  to  fry  them  when  cut  in  pieces  as  when  sliced  or 
cut  in  fillets. 

To  fry  them  light,  or  swelled.  —  When  fried,  turn  into 
the  colander,  and  have  the  fat  over  a  brisk  fire  ;  leave  the 
potatoes  in  the  colander  only  about  half  a  minute,  then  put 
them  back  in  the  very  hot  fat,  stir  for  about  one  minute 
and  put  them  again  in  the  colander,  salt  them,  and  serve 
hot.  If  the  fat  is  very  hot,  when  dropped  into  it  for  the 
second  time  they  will  certainly  swell  ;  there  is  no  other 
way  known  to  do  it.  It  is  as  easily  done  as  it  is  simple. 
Potatoes  cut  in  fillets  and  fried  are  sometimes  called  a  la 
Parisienne  ;  when  cut  in  slices  or  with  a  vegetable  spoon, 
they  are  called  a  la  franpaise. 

Potatoes  cut  with  a  vegetable  spoon  and  fried,  make  a 
good  as  well  as  a  sightly  decoration  for  a  dish  of  meat  or 
of  fish.  They  may  be  fried  in  oil  also,  but  it  is  more 
expensive  than  in  fat.  They  may  be  fried  in  butter  also, 
but  it  is  still  more  expensive  than  oil,  and  is  not  better  than 
fat  ;  no  matter  what  kind  of  fat  is  used,  be  it  lard,  beef 
suet,  or  skimmings  of  sauces  and  gravy,  it  cannot  be 
tasted. 

ffollandaise.  —  Steam  or  boil  the  potatoes,  and  then 


334  VEGETABLES. 

peel  and  mash  them.  Season  them  with  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper,  add  also  two  tablespoon- 
fills  of  gravy  to  a  quart  of  potatoes,  then  make  small  balls 
about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  round  or  of  an  olive-shape,  dip 
them  in  beaten  egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat.  Serve  hot. 

Another. — Proceed  as  for  the  above  one  in  every  par- 
ticular, except  that  you  use  milk  or  cream  instead  of  broth, 
and  sugar  instead  of  salt  and  pepper. 

Lyonnaise. — Potatoes  Lyonnaise  are  prepared  accord- 
ing to  taste,  that  is,  as  much  onion  as  liked  is  used,  either 
in  slices  or  chopped.  If  you  have  not  any  cold  potatoes, 
steam  or  boil  some,  let  them  cool,  and  peel  and  slice  them. 
For  about  a  quart  of  potatoes,  put  two  ounces  of  butter 
in  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  put  as  much 
onion  as  you  please,  either  sliced  or  chopped,  into  the  pan, 
and  fry  it  till  about  half  done,  when  add  the  potatoes  and 
again  two  ounces  of  butter ;  salt,  pepper,  and  stir  and  toss 
gently  till  the  potatoes  are  all  fried  of  a  fine,  light-brown 
color.  It  may  require  more  butter,  as  no  vegetable  ab- 
sorbs more  than  potatoes.  It  makes  an  excellent  dish  for 
those  who  do  not  object  to  the  taste  of  the  onion  (the 
onion  can  be  tasted,  not  being  boiled  or  kept  long  enough 
on  the  fire  to  evaporate).  Serve  warm.  Oil  may  be  used 
instead  of  butter. 

Maitre  d1  Hotel. — Steam  or  boil  about  a  quart  of  pota 
toes,  and  then  peel  and  cut  them  in  slices.  Put  one  ounce 
and  a  half  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when 
melted  add  a  small  tablespoonful  of  flour;  stir,  and  when 
turning  yellow  add  also  about  a  quart  of  milk,  salt  to 
taste,  give  one  boil  and  take  from  the  fire.  Then  add  the 
potatoes,  put  back  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  for  ten  minutes,  mix 
in  the  whole  a  teaspoonful  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  also  a 
yolk  or  two  of  eggs,  and  serve  warm. 


VEGETABLES.  335 

Another  Maitre  <T  Hotel. — Take  two  quarts  of  potatoes, 
prepare  and  cook  them  by  steam,  peel  carefully,  and  cut 
them  in  thick  slices ;  place  them  on  a  dish  and  keep  warm. 
Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  a  slow 
fire ;  add,  when  melted,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  cf  all- 
spice, stir  ten  minutes ;  afterward,  put  for  five  minutes  on 
a  quick  fire,  keep  stirring,  then  pour  on  the  potatoes,  and 
serve. 

Mashed. — Peel  and  quarter  about  three  pints  of  pota- 
toes as  directed ;  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  more  water 
than  is  necessary  to  cover  them,  and  a  little  salt ;  set  on 
the  fire  and  boil  gently  till  done,  drain,  put  them  back  in 
the  saucepan,  mash  them  well  and  mix  them  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  salt,  pepper,  and  milk 
enough  to  make  them  of  a  proper  thickness.  Set  on  the 
fire  for  two  or  three  minutes,  stirring  the  while,  and  serve 
warm.  When  on  the  dish,  smooth  them  with  the  back  of 
a  knife  or  scallop  them,  according  to  fancy. 

Mashed  and  baked. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a 
stewpan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  hot,  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  parsley  chopped  fine,  and  a  little  salt ;  five  minutes 
after,  put  in  it  a  quart  of  potatoes,  prepared,  cooked,  peeled, 
and  mashed,  as  directed ;  then  pour  on  the  whole,  little 
by  little,  stirring  continually  with  a  wooden  spoon,  a  pint 
of  good  milk ;  and  when  the  whole  is  well  mixed,  and 
becoming  rather  thick,  take  from  the  fire,  place  on  the  dish, 
then  set  in  a  brisk  oven  for  five  minutes,  and  serve. 

Polonaise. — Wash  well  about  two  quarts  of  potatoes, 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  cover  with  cold  water,  season 
with  salt,  half  a  dozen  whole  peppers,  a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig 
of  thyme,  and  two  or  three  onions  in  slices;  boil  gen- 
tly till  done,  and  drain.  Peel  the  potatoes,  cut  them 


336  VEGETABLES. 

in  two,  dish  and  turn  a  caper  sauce  over  them.  Serve 
warm. 

Provenfale. — Peel  and  quarter  about  three  pints  of 
potatoes  as  directed.  Put  in  a  saucepan  about  a  gill  of 
oil  with  the  potatoes,  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  nutmeg,  six 
sprigs  of  parsley,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  and  half  the  rind 
of  a  lemon ;  the  three  latter  spices  well  chopped ;  set  on 
a  good  fire,  stir  now  and  then  till  cooked,  dish  the  whole, 
sprinkle  the  juice  of  one  or  two  lemons  on,  and  serve 
warm. 

Another  way. — Put  in  a  stewpan  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  sweet-oil,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  cloves 
of  garlic  chopped  very  fine,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon,  salt,  and  pepper ;  set  on  a  good 
fire,  and  when  hot  put  in  it  a  quart  of  potatoes  prepared 
and  cooked  by  steam,  and  cut  in  thick  slices ;  subdue  the 
fire,  simmer  about  ten  minutes,  and  serve. 

Sautees. — Take  a  quart  of  young  and  tender  potatoes, 
peel  them  with  a  brush,  and  cut  in  slices.  Put  two  ounces 
of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  on  a  quick  fire ;  when  hot,  put 
the  potatoes  in,  and  fry  them  till  of  a  golden  color ;  place 
them  on  a  dish  without  any  butter,  sprinkle  chopped  pars- 
ley and  salt  on,  and  serve.  They  may  also  be  served  with- 
out parsley,  according  to  taste. 

Soufflees. — Steam  a  quart  of  potatoes,  then  peel  and 
mash  them  in  a  saucepan  and  mix  an  ounce  of  butter  with 
them ;  set  on  the  fire,  pour  into  it,  little  by  little,  stirring 
the  while,  about  half  a  pint  of  milk,  stir  a  little  longer 
after  the  milk  is  in  and  until  they  are  turning  rather  thick ; 
dish  the  potatoes,  smooth  or  scallop  them  with  the  back 
of  a  knife,  and  put  them  in  a  quick  oven  till  of  a  proper 
color,  and  serve. 

Another  icay. — Steam  three  pints  of  potatoes  and  peel 


VEGETABLES.  337 

and  mash  them  in  a  saucepan,  then  mix  with,  them  four 
ounces  of  butter,  salt  to  taste,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
eight  yolks  of  eggs ;  set  on  the  fire  for  two  minutes,  stir- 
ring the  while,  and  take  off.  Beat  six  whites  of  eggs  to 
a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  them  gently  with  the  rest.  Place 
the  mixture  on  a  dish,  smooth  with  the  back  of  a  knife  01 
scallop  them,  according  to  fancy,  and  put  in  a  quick  oven. 
As  soon  as  the  top  gets  a  little  dry,  which  will  be  in  two 
or  three  minutes  after  being  in  the  oven,  take  them  off 
and  quickly  spread  some  melted  butter  all  over,  by  means 
of  a  brush,  and  put  back  in  the  oven  for  two  or  three  min- 
utes longer,  when  take  off  again,  spread  butter  over  the 
same  as  the  first  time,  etc.  Repeat  the  same  process  two 
or  three  times,  and  serve  warm. 

Stuffed. — Steam  two  or  three  potatoes  and  peel  and 
mash  them  in  a  bowl,  then  chop  fine  a  small  green  onion 
or  two  shallots  with  two  ounces  of  fat  salt  pork  and  six  01 
eight  sprigs  of  parsley;  mix  the  whole  with  the  potatoes; 
add  also  and  mix  with  the  rest  about  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  If  the  potatoes  are  not 
warm  enough  to  melt  the  butter  while  mixing,  it  should 
be  melted  first.  Clean  and  wash  well  six  potatoes  of  an 
even  size  and  split  them  in  two  lengthwise ;  then  with  a 
small  iron  spoon  remove  the  middle  part  of  each  half,  so 
as  to  leave  only  a  thickness  of  about  one-eighth  of  an 
inch.  You  have  then  a  kind  of  shell,  which  you  fill  with 
the  prepared  mixture  above,  filling  mere  than  full,  so  that 
the  top  is  convex,  and  which  you  smooth  with  the  back 
of  a  knife.  When  the  twelve  halves  are  thus  prepared, 
butter  the  bottom  of  a  bakepan,  lay  the  potatoes  in  with 
the  mixture  upward,  and  put  in  a  warm  oven.  Take  from 
the  oven  when  about  half  done,  and  spread  some  melted 
15 


838  VEGETABLES. 

butter  all  over  by  means  of  a  brush ;  put  back  in  the  oven, 
finish  the  baking,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Cakes. — Prepare  and  cook  by  steam  a  quart  and  a 
half  of  potatoes,  peel  and  mash  them  ;  mix  with  them  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  half  a  lemon-rind  grated,  and  four  ounces 
of  fine  white  sugar.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan  and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  when  melted,  put  the  mixture 
in,  stirring  with  a  wooden  spoon  continually ;  as  soon  as 
it  is  in  the  stewpan,  add  the  whites  of  the  five  eggs,  well 
beaten  ;  leave  on  the  fire  only  the  time  necessary  to  mix 
the  whole  well  together,  and  take  off;  when  nearly  cold, 
add,  if  handy,  and  while  stirring,  a  few  drops  of  orange- 
flower  water;  it  gives  a  very  good  flavor;  then  put  the 
whole  in  a  tin  mould  greased  a  little  with  butter ;  place  in 
a  quick  oven  for  about  thirty-five  minutes,  and  serve. 

In  Croquettes.— -Peel,  quarter,  and  boil  about  a  quart 
of  potatoes  as  directed.  Mash  them  in  a  saucepan  and 
mix  them  with  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter, 
salt,  and  about  half  a  gill  of  milk ;  set  on  the  fire,  stir  for 
about  two  minutes,  take  off,  spread  on  a  dish  and  leave 
thus  for  two  or  three  hours,  and  even  over  night  when  for 
breakfast.  When  left  over  night,  they  may  be  rather  too 
dry  to  work  them ;  then  mix  with  a  few  drops  of  milk.  No 
matter  how  long  they  have  been  left  on  the  dish,  it  is 
necessary  to  mix  them,  that  is,  to  mix  the  top,  which 
is  the  driest  part,  with  the  rest.  Dust  the  paste-board 
slightly  with  bread-crumbs,  put  the  potatoes  on  it,  in  parts 
of  about  a  tablespoonful  each  ;  then,  with  the  hands  and  a 
knife,  shape  them  according  to  fancy,  either  round,  flat,  or 
oval,  etc.  When  shaped  round  they  look  like  a  piece  of 
iausage  about  two  inches  and  a  half  long.  If  wished  flat, 
when  shaped  round,  just  flatten  them  a  little  with  the 
blade  of  a  knife.  Then  dip  each  part  in  beaten  egg,  rolJ 


VEGETABLES.  339 

in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in  hot  fat  (See  FETING.)  Take 
them  off  the  fat  when  done,  turn  them  into  a  colander, 
and  immediately  dish,  and  serve  them  as  warm  as  possible. 
Potato  croquettes  are  sometimes  called  potato-balls.  When 
the  croquettes  are  shaped  flat,  they  are  also  called  "  &  la 
duchesse." 

Another  Duchesse. — When  the  potatoes  are  ready  to 
be  spread  on  the  dish  to  cool,  put  them  in  the  pastry-bag 
and  squeeze  them  out  of  it  like  lady's  fingers,  bake,  and 
serve  warm.  It  makes  a  sightly  dish. 

In  Matelote. — Prepare  and  cook  a  quart  and  a  half  of 
potatoes,  and  peel  and  cut  them  in  thick  slices.  Put  in  a 
stewpan  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  and  set  it  on 
the  fire;  when  melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
also  the  same  of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper,  then 
the  potatoes,  wet  with  half  a  pint  of  claret  wine,  same  of 
broth ;  boil  gently  till  the  sauce  is  reduced,  and  serve. 

With  Butter,  or  English  Fashion. — Put  water  on  the 
fire  with  considerable  salt  in  it;  at  the  first  boil,  drop  a 
quart  of  washed  potatoes  in  and  boil  till  done,  when  take 
off,  peel,  and  put  them  whole  in  a  saucepan,  with  butter, 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  nutmeg ;  set  on  a  rather  slow  fire, 
stirring  gently  now  and  then  till  they  have  absorbed  all 
the  butter.  Serve  warm.  They  absorb  a  great  deal  of 
butter. 

With  Bacon  or  Salt  Pork. — Peel  and  quarter  about  a 
quart  of  potatoes.  Set  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  with  about 
four  ounces  of  fat  salt  pork  cut  in  dice  in  it.  When 
fried  put  the  potatoes  in.  Season  with  a  bunch  of  season- 
ings composed  of  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  one  of  thyme,  and 
a  bay-leaf;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  about  half  a  pint 
of  broth  or  water.  Boil  gently  till  cooked,  remove  the 
bunch  of  seasonings;  skim  off  the  fat  if  any,  and  servo 


340  VEGETABLES. 

warm.  It  is  served  at  breakfast,  as  well  as  entremets  for 
dinner. 

With  Cream  or  Milk. — Peel  and  mash  a  quart  of  po- 
tatoes, when  prepared  and  cooked.  Put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire;  when 
melted,  sprinkle  in  it  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  same  of  chop- 
ped parsley,  a  pinch  of  grated  nutmeg,  and  salt ;  stir  with 
a  wooden  spoon  five  minutes  ;  then  add  the  potatoes,  and 
half  a  pint  of  milk  or  cream  ;  keep  stirring  ten  minutes 
longer,  take  from  the  fire,  sprinkle  in  them  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possible. 

With  White  Sauce. — Clean,  wash,  and  throw  a  quart 
of  potatoes  in  boiling  water,  with  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two 
onions,  a  bay-leaf,  two  sprigs  of  sweet  basil,  two  cloves, 
salt,  ana  pepper;  when  cooked,  take  the  potatoes  out 
carefully,  peel  and  cut  them  in  two,  place  them  on  a  warm 
dish,  pour  on  them  a  white  sauce,  and  serve  warm. 

Sweet  Potatoes. — They  are  prepared  in  the  same  and 
every  way  like  the  others  above. 

Pumpkins  and  Squashes. — Peel,  take  out  the  seed,  cut 
in  pieces,  and  throw  them  in  boiling  water  with  a  little 
salt ;  drain  when  cooked  and  mash  through  a  colander, 
put  butter  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  when  melted,  add 
chopped  parsley,  sa,t,  pepper,  and  the  pumpkin  or  squash, 
and  simmer  ten  minutes ;  after  which  pour  in  it  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while ;  leave  ten 
minutes  longer  on  the  fire,  and  take  off;  mix  well  in  it 
two  or  three  yolks  of  eggs,  and  serve  warm.  The  quantity 
of  milk,  butter,  eggs,  etc.,  to  be  according  to  the  quantity 
of  squash. 

Purslain. — Clean,  wash  well,  and  drop  it  in  boiling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  boil  till  cooked,  take  off  and  drain. 
Put  butter  in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  lav 


VEGETABLES.  34:1 

the  purslain  in,  stir  a  little  and  sprinkle  on  it,  little  by 
little,  a  pinch  of  flour ;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  chop- 
ped parsley,  stir  and  simmer  about  ten  minutes,  take  from 
the  fire,  mix  in  it  one  or  two  beaten  eggs,  and  serve. 
Purslain  is  much  more  used  in  Europe  than  here ;  there 
it  is  cultivated  as  other  vegetables,  but  it  does  not  grow 
as  well  as  here. 

Rhubarb. — Scrape  and  cut  it  in  pieces  about  one  inch 
long,  and  then  blanch  it  for  two  minutes.  Put  it  in  a 
saucepan  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water 
and  set  it  on  a  rather  sharp  fire,  toss  or  stir  now  aud  then 
till  done,  when  sweeten  to  taste,  dish,  let  cool,  and  serve. 
Ehubarb  is  very  wholesome,  and  ought  to  be  pat*  taken  of  at 
least  every  other  day.  When  prepared  as  ab'jve,  it  may 
be  used  to  make  pies. 

Radishes. — The  cuts  below  are  turnip-rojted  red  rad- 
ishes, cut  with  a  small  knife,  put  in  cold  water  for  about 
an  hour,  and  served  with  butter,  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre.  Re- 


move the  outer  leaves,  leaving  only  four  or  five  of  the 
small  centre  ones,  cut  off  the  root  close  to  the  radish,  and 
wash  clean  in  cold  water.  Take  the  radish  with  the  left 
hand  holding  it  by  the  centre  leaves,  cut  the  skin  from  the 
top  downward  to  near  the  leaves,  in  several  parts,  but 
without  detaching  it,  and  as  seen  in  the  cuts  above ;  do 


342  VEGETABLES. 

the  same  carefully  with  the  body  of  the  radish,  and  it 
will  look  more  like  a  rose  than  like  a  radish.  After  hav- 
ing prepared  two  or  three,  it  will  be  comparatively  easy. 
The  centre  leaves  must  be  eaten,  as  well  as  the  body  of 
the  radish ;  they  contain  a  substance  that  helps  the  di- 
gestion of  the  radish  itself. 

Salsify,  or  Oyster-Plant. — Scrape  them,  and  throw 
one  by  one  as  they  are  scraped  into  cold  water,  with  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar ;  when  they  are  all  scraped,  move  them 
a  little,  take  out  of  the  water,  and  throw  them  in  boiling 
water  with  a  little  salt,  boil  till  tender,  and  drain  ;  place 
them  warm  on  a  warm  dish,  and  serve  with  brown  butter, 
a  maitre  cThotel,  or  white  sauce. 

Fried. — When  boiled  as  above,  drain  them.  Then 
dip  each  in  batter  for  frying  vegetables,  drop  them  in  hot 
fat,  and  take  them  off  with  a  skimmer  when  done,  turn 
into  a  colander,  salt  them,  and  serve  hot. 

In  Bechamel. — While  the  salsify  is  boiling  as  directed 
above,  make  a  Bechamel  sauce ;  drain  the  salsify  when 
done,  and  turn  it  into  the  Bechamel  sauce  as  soon  as  the 
latter  is  finished ;  keep  on  the  fire  for  about  two  minutes, 
stirring  the  while,  and  serve  warm.  They  are  prepared 
and  served  in  the  same  way  with  the  following  sauces : 
cream,  poulette,  and  white. 

SJcirret. — Prepare,  cook,  and  serve  in  every  way  like 
parsnips. 

Sorrel. — Sorrel  is  found  in  a  wild  state  nearly  every- 
where; that  is,  where  green  plants  vegetate.  It  is  an 
excellent  vegetable,  good  to  eat  all  the  year  round,  but 
especially  in  the  spring  and  summer.  It  is  very  healthful, 
containing  the  pure  oxalic  acid  as  it  is  formed  by  Nature. 
Sorrel  is  the  greatest  neutralizer  of  acrid  substances.  A 
few  leaves  chewed,  take  away  from  the  teeth  that  dis- 


s  VEGETABLES.  343 

agreeable  feeling  left  after  having  eaten  a  tart  apple  or 
other  tart,  unripe  fruit  Cultivated  in  a  rich  soil,  the 
leaves  grow  nearly  as  large  as  those  of  the  rhubarb.  It 
is  cut  to  the  ground  several  times  during  the  spring  and 
summer. 

To  boil. — Take  a  peck  of  sorrel,  separate  the  stalk 
from  the  eatable  part,  by  taking  hold  of  it  with  one  hand 
and  tearing  oft*  the  rest  with  the  other,  so  that  only  the 
fitalk  and  fibres  attached  to  it  will  remain  after  the  tearing, 
and  which  you  throw  away.  Wash  it  well,  drain  and  set 
it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
water;  stir  occasionally,  and  when  nearly  done,  take  off, 
mash  through  a  colander,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Au  jus. — Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an  egg  in 
a  saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted,  put  the 
sorrel  in  after  being  boiled  and  mashed  as  above,  stir  half 
a  minute,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  stir  another  half 
minute,  add  also  half  a  gill  of  gravy,  same  of  broth,  salt, 
stir  two  minutes,  and  serve.  Hard-boiled  eggs,  split  in 
four  pieces,  lengthwise,  may  be  placed  around  the  dish,  if 
the  sorrel  is  served  as  an  entremets. 

To  preserve  for  Winter  Use. — When  boiled  and  mashed 
as  above,  put  it  in  stone  or  glass  jars ;  when  cold,  turn 
melted  butter  or  lard  over  it;  cover  as  tightly  as  possible 
with  paper,  and  when  perfectly  cold,  put  away  in  a  dark, 
dry,  and  rather  cool  place,  and  it  will  keep  very  well 
during  the  whole  winter.  The  best  time  to  preserve  it  is 
at  the  beginning  of  November,  just  before  the  cold  weather 
sets  in. 

Puree  of. — When  prepared  as  for  au  jus,  but  without 
gravy,  it  is  a  puree. 

Spinach — to  boil. — When  cleaned  and  washed,  throw 
E  in  boiling  water  at  the  first  boiling,  with  a  pinch  of  salt, 


844  VEGETABLES. 

and  boil  till  done.  It  will  take  from  one  to  ten  minutes  to 
boil,  according  to  how  tender  it  is.  Turn  into  a  colander ; 
press  on  it  to  force  the  water  out,  put  on  the  paste-board 
and  chop  it  fine. 

An  jus. — "When  chopped,  set  the  spinach  on  the  fire 
in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  broth,  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  for  a  small  measure ;  stir,  add  as  much  gravy,  an  ounce 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  salt,  stir  two  minutes,  and 
serve. 

Au  jus  in  Winter. — When  prepared  as  above,  put  it 
away  in  a  bowl  in  a  cool  place,  for  one  day ;  then  set 
it  back  on  the  fire  in  a  pan,  add  a  little  butter  and 
a  little  broth,  stir  and  just  warm  it,  when  put  away 
again ;  repeat  this  for  four  or  five  days  in  succession,  and 
you  certainly  will  have  an  excellent  dish.  Some  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  four  pieces,  lengthwise,  may  be  placed 
around  the  spinach  when  dished,  also  some  croutons. 
Spinach  is  generally  served  on  a  flat  dish,  and  scolloped 
all  around  with  a  knife. 

With  Sugar. — Proceed  as  for  spinach  aujus  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  put  very  little  salt,  and  one  or 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  according  to  taste.  Lady-fin- 
gers or  pieces  of  sponge-cake  may  be  placed  all  around 
the  dish. 

A  la  Creme. — Boil  and  chop  the  spinach  as  directed. 
Set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  stir  till  perfectly  dry,  but 
not  burnt ;  add  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  again  for  five 
or  eix  minutes ;  then  add  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cream 
to  a  small  measure  of  spinach ;  stir  again  five  minutes, 
take  from  the  fire ;  add  again  one  ounce  of  butter,  stir  two 
minutes,  and  serve  with  hard-boiled  eggs  or  croutons,  or 
both.  Milk  may  be  used  instead  of  cream  when  the  lat« 
ter  cannot  be  had,  but  it  is  inferior  in  taste. 


VEGETABLES.  345 

With  Anchovy. — Proceed  as  for  the  above,  using  a 
tablespoon  fill  of  essence  of  anchovy  instead  of  cream. 

Spinach  au  Beurre,  or  a  l\anglaise. — Boil  and  chop 
the  spinach  as  directed.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  but- 
ter; set  on  the  fire,  stir  till  the  butter  is  melted  and 
mixed  with  the  spinach,  salt  to  taste,  and  serve. 

Sprouts. — Boil,  prepare,  and  serve  sprouts  the  same 
as  spinach. 

Tomatoes  are,  like  sorrel  .and  rhubarb,  very  healthful. 

To  blanch. — After  they  are  washed,  throw  boiling 
water  over  them,  and  then  take  off  and  remove  the  skin. 

Stewed,  to  serve  with  Meat  or  fish. — When  blanched  as 
above,  put  the  tomatoes  in  a  stewpan  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper,  set  on  the  fire  and  simmer  for  about  forty-five 
minutes  ;  serve  warm  all  around  the  fish  or  piece  of  meat. 
Tomatoes  may  be  eaten  raw,  with  or  without  salt ;  in  no 
matter  what  way  they  are  partaken  ofj  they  are  not 
yet  known  to  have  indisposed  anybody.  Although  great 
quantities  are  consumed  in  this  and  other  countries,  still 
many  more  ought  to  be  used;  they  are  so  easily  pre- 
served, that  every  family  ought  to  have  a  large  provision 
of  them  for  the  winter  and  spring  consumption. 

Stuffed. — Soak  in  cold  water  one-fourth  of  a  ten-cent 
loaf  of  bread,  etc. ;  when  perfectly  soaked,  squeeze  it  with 
the  hands.  Take  six  tomatoes,  as  much  of  an  even  size  as 
possible,  cut  the  top  off;  that  is,  the  side  opposite  the 
stem,  and  with  a  small  spoon  take  out  the  inside  and  put 
it  in  a  bowl,  and  then  turn  into  a  colander  to  let  the 
liquid  part  run  off.  Put  about  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan,  and  when  melted  add  a  small  onion  chopped ; 
stir,  and  when  nearly  fried  add  also  the  part  of  the  toma- 
toes in  the  colander  also  chopped;  stir  haLT  a  minute; 
put  in  the  soaked  bread,  stir  and  mix  *  then  salt,  pepper, 
15* 


34:6  VEGETABLES. 

and  grated  nutmeg ;  give  one  boil  more,  and  take  from 
the  fire.  Fill  the  tomatoes  with  this  mixture,  dust  with 
bread-crumbs,  put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut 
on  each,  and  bake.  Just  before  serving,  wet  with  a  little 
tomato-sauce,  broth,  or  gravy. 

Turnips — to  boil. — Clean,  scrape,  and  wash  well,  then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan,  either  whole  or  in  slices,  or  cut 
with  a  fruit-corer  or  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  add  cold  wa- 
ter enough  to  boil  them  in,  a  little  salt,  set  on  the  fire  and 
boil  gently  till  tender ;  then  take  off,  drain,  drop  in  cold 
water,  drain  again,  and  use. 

In  Bechamel. — While  the  turnips  are  boiling  as  de- 
scribed above,  make  a  Bechamel  sauce  and  turn  the  tur- 
nips in  as  soon  as  made ;  boil  gently  about  two  minutes, 
stirring  the  while,  and  serve  warm.  Do  exactly  the  same 
with  a  cream  or  white  sauce. 

An  jus. — Boil  and  drain  them  as  directed  above,  then 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  little  gravy,  set  on  the  fire, 
stir  now  and  then  for  about  ten  minutes,  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  meuniere,  stir  again  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  serve 
warm. 

With  Sugar. — Cut  with  a  fruit-corer  or  with  a  vegeta- 
ble spoon  about  a  pint  of  turnips,  and  boil  them  till  un- 
der done,  then  drain.  Put  the  turnips  in  a  saucepan  with 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  broth,  set  on  a  good  fire, 
toss  occasionally  for  about  ten  minutes,  then  add  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  toss  again  now  and  then  for 
ten  minutes  longer,  and  serve.  It  may  take  a  little  longer 
or  less  time  than  described  above,  according  to  the  state 
of  the  turnips ;  if  young  and  very  tender,  keep  on  the 
fire  five  instead  of  ten  minutes,  and  if  old,  it  may  take 
"fifteen  minutes 

Glazed. — Cut  the  turnips  with  a  vegetable  spoon,  boil 


VEGETABLES.  347 

them  for  five  minutes,  and  drain  them.  Put  half  a  gill 
of  broth  in  a  saucepan  with  about  one  pint  of  turnips  and 
set  on  a  good  fire ;  toss  and  stir  now  and  then  till  done, 
and  till  the  broth  is  all  boiled  away.  If  it  boils  away 
before  the  turnips  are  cooked,  add  more  and  finish  the 
cooking.  When  done,  sprinkle  about  three  ounces  of 
sugar  on  them,  stir  for  about  one  minute,  dish  the  turnips, 
dredge  powdered  sugar  all  over,  put  in  the  oven  two  min- 
utes, and  serve. 

Water-cress, — This  contains  much  sulphur,  and  is  the 
greatest  anti-scorbutic  known.  Besides  being  eaten  with 
salt  or  in  salad,  it  may  also  be  stewed  in  the  following 
way  :  Take  only  the  top  and  the  leaves  around  the  stalk; 
clean  and  wash  it  well ;  throw  it  in  boiling  water  with  a 
little  salt,  and  when  cooked  drain  it  well,  so  as  to  extract 
all  the  water  from  it  Put  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  an 
egg  in  a  stewpan  ;  when  melted,  put  the  cress  in,  sprinkle 
on  it  a  tablespoonful  of  flour  (for  three  quarts) ;  stir  con- 
tinually with  a  spoon,  boil  ten  minutes,  then  add  salt,  pep- 
per, a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  pint  of  broth  ;  boil 
ten  minutes  longer,  and  serve  either  alone,  or  with  hard- 
boiled  eggs  on  it ;  cut  the  eggs  ia  two  or  four  pieces. 

Salads. — Salads  are  seasoned  with  oil,  vinegar,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  sometimes  with  mustard  also.  The  best 
oil  is  that  made  of  olives,  but  much  is  sold  for  olive-oil 
which  contains  more  lard  than  oil.  It  is  impossible  to  tell 
which  is  pure  by  the  color.  Pure  olive-oil  is  of  a  pale- 
yellow-greenish  color.  It  is  very  easy  to  tell  the  pure  oil 
by  tasting,  but  of  course  it  is  necessary  to  know  the  real 
taste  of  good  oil 

The  best  vinegar  is  wine-vinegar,  with  tarragon  in  it 
(vinaiare  a  Vestragwi),  but  it  is  expensive.  Next  to  it  ia 
cider-vinegar.  Beer  makes  good  vinegar,  but  inferior  to 


348  VEGETABLES. 

that  made  with  cider.  Pyrolignic  vinegar  is  very  un- 
healthy. No  one  can  be  too  careful  in  selecting  vinegar. 
The  superiority  of  the  French  mustard  comes  from  the 
compounds  used,  and  not  from  the  way  it  is  made,  as 
thought  by  many.  In  the  French  mustard,  besides  vinaigre 
a  Vestragon,  there  is  white  wine,  and  more  sweet-oil  than 
in  any  other  kind.  A  good  deal  of  mustard  is  made  here, 
and  often  sold  as  French,  after  being  carefully  labelled. 

Salad  is  made  with  every  species  of  lettuce ;  chicory, 
cultivated  and  wild ;  cabbages,  red  and  white ;  cauliflowers, 
celery,  dandelion,  corn-salad,  purslain,  water-cress,  etc.  If 
it  were  possible  to  clean  the  salad  by  merely  wiping  the 
leaves  with  a  towel,  it  would  be  better  than  washing ;  but 
it  must  be  washed  if  there  is  any  earth  or  sand  on  it.  The 
salad  should  be  made  by  an  experienced  person,  who  can 
judge  at  a  glance  what  quantity  of  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and 
vinegar  is  necessary.  The  quantities  cannot  be  given,  as 
that  depends  on  the  quantity  of  salad.  Chopped  parsley 
and  chives  are  served  on  a  small  plate  at  the  same  time 
with  the  salad,  as  many  persons  like  those  spices. 

Celery. — When  the  celery  is  washed  and  cleaned,  wipe 
it  dry,  cut  the  white  or  eatable  part  (the  top  or  green  part 
is  used  for  soup)  in  pieces  about  one  inch  long,  put  them 
in  the  salad-dish  with  salt,  vinegar,  and  mustard,  stir  a 
little,  leave  thus  about  one  hour,  then  add  pepper  and  oil, 
move  again,  and  serve. 

Lettuce. — Lettuce,  and  especially  Cos  or  Roman  let- 
tuce, must  be  handled  very  gingerly,  in  order  not  to  wilt 
the  leaves  while  cleaning  and  washing.  When  the  head 
of  the  lettuce,  especially  of  Roman  lettuce,  is  hard,  it  is 
not  necessary  to  wash  it  at  all,  as  when  the  outer  leaves 
are  taken  off,  the  rest  is  perfectly  clean.  Never  use  the 
knife,  but  break  the  leaves ;  put  them  in  the  salad-dish ; 


VEGETABLES.  349 

spread  all  over  the  dish,  according  to  taste  and  fancy,  the 
blossoms  and  petals  (not  the  leaves)  of  any  or  all  of  the 
following  plants:  burnet,  -wild  cbiccory,  rose  (any  kind), 
pink,  sage,  lady's-slipper,  marsh-mallow,  nasturtium,  peri- 
winkle. Thus  decorated,  the  salad  is  put  on  the  table  at 
the  setting  of  it,  and  made  when  the  time  for  eating  it 
comes.  Of  these  decorative  flowers,  the  handiest  are  the 
rose  and  pink,  as  at  every  season  of  the  year  they  are 
easily  obtained.  In  spring  and  summer  most  of  the  others 
can  also  be  had  easily. 

The  salad,  thus  decorated,  is  placed  on  the  table  at  the 
same  time  with  the  soup.  It  is  made  while  the  roast-piece 
is  carved  or  eaten ;  the  petals  of  flowers  or  blossoms  are 
not  removed,  and,  of  course,  are  eaten  with  the  lettuce. 
The  salad  is  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  oil. 
The  proportions  are  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil  to  one  of 
vinegar  for  a  salad  for  three,  four,  or  five  persons.  It  is 
generally  moved  round  in  the  dish,  so  as  to  impregnate 
every  leaf  with  the  seasoning.  It  is  served  immediately 
after  the  roast-piece. 

Cream  may  be  used  instead  of  oil. 

Turnip-rooted  Celery  (called  also  Soup  Celery). — Clean, 
wash  well,  and  scrape  it  carefully ;  cut  it  in  thin  slices, 
place  it  in  the  salad-dish,  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  vinegar, 
and  mustard  on  it,  mix  well  the  whole  together,  and  leave 
thus  from  four  to  six  hours.  Then  throw  away  the  vine- 
gar, or  most  of  it ;  add  very  little  salt  and  vinegar,  oil,  and 
move  well.  Serve  as  above,  that  is,  immediately  after  the 
roast-piece  of  the  dinner. 

A  salad  with  cabbage,  chiccory,  corn-salad,  or  any  kind 
of  greens,  after  being  properly  cleaned,  washed,  wiped 
dry,  and  cut  in  pieces  if  necessary,  is  made  and  served 
exactly  like  a  salad  of  lettuce  described  above. 


350  VEGETABLES. 

Nasturtium. — This  is  said  to  be  a  native  of  Mexico ; 
it  makes  a  good  salad  in  summer-time.  Make  and  serve 
like  a  salad  of  lettuce. 

Chervil  and  Sorrel. — In  Italy.  Spain,  and  the  south 
of  France,  they  make  salad  with  these  two  vegetables, 
half  of  each,  prepared  and  served  like  lettuce. 

Some  persons  like  a  thick  sauce  with  salad ;  it  is  made 
thus :  Put  a  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg  in  a  bowl,  mash  it, 
and  then  mix  with  it  salt  and  a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar ; 
when  these  three  are  thoroughly  mixed,  add  pepper  and 
oil  (about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil),  little  by  little,  stir- 
ring and  mixing  well  the  while ;  turn  the  mixture  over  the 
salad,  and  move  as  directed  above.  The  mixture  may  be 
prepared  in  the  salad-dish,  and  the  salad  put  in  afterward. 

Mustard  should  never  be  used  with  lettuce ;  it  is  too 
strong  to  be  eaten  with  such  tender  vegetables. 

Of  Salsify. — In  the  spring,  when  the  top  of  the  sal- 
sify has  grown  for  one  or  two  weeks  only,  and  immedi- 
ately after  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  cut  it  off,  split  it 
in  four,  wash  it  well,  drain  it  dry,  and  prepare  as  a  salad 
of  lettuce.  The  root  is  prepared  as  described  for  salsify, 
and  is  never  made  in  salad. 

Of  Cucumbers. — Peel  and  slice  them,  then  put  them  in 
a  vessel,  salt  every  layer,  and  leave  thus  in  a  cool  place 
about  one  hour,  drain  them  dry  and  then  dress  them  with 
oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper;  slices  of  onion  may  be 
added,  if  liked. 

Of  Beans. — Boil  the  beans  in  water  with  a  little  salt, 
drain  them  dry,  and  then  dress  them  with  parsley  chopped 
fine,  salt,  pepper,  oil,  and  vinegar. 

Of  Beets. — Boil  the  beets  in  water  only  till  done,  and 
when  cool,  peel  and  slice  them,  and  prepare  them  with 
pepper,  salt,  vinegar,  and  oil.  The  beets  may  be  baked. 


VEGETABLES.  351 

Of  Eggs. — Slice  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  dress  them  with 
chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  oil. 

Of  Lentils. — Proceed  as  for  beans  in  every  particular. 

Of  Onions. — Bake  the  onions,  then  peel  and  slice 
them,  and  dress  them  with  mustard,  salt,  pepper,  vinegar, 
and  «>il. 

Of  Tomatoes. — Wash,  wipe  dry,  and  slice  the  toma- 
toes ;  slice  also  onions  and  mix  with  them,  the  quantity  to 
be  according  to  taste ;  then  season  with  salt,  pepper,  oil, 
ind  vinegar. 

Of  Walnuts. — The  European  walnut  only  can  be  used, 
and  as  soon  as  good  to  eat ;  that  is,  before  the  outer  shell 
dries  and  opens.  Break  the  nuts  in  two,  take  out  the  ker- 
nels with  a  pointed  knife,  and  place  them  in  a  salad-dish, 
with  some  juice  of  grapes  not  yet  ripe ;  add  salt  and  pep- 
per, leave  thus  two  or  three  hours,  moving  now  and  then, 
and  serve.  The  edible  part  will  be  found  very  good  eaten 
that  way.  To  persons  who  have  never  eaten  any,  it  may 
appear  a  strange  dish,  but  let  them  try  it 

Of  Potatoes. — A  potato-salad  is  the  one  that  requires 
the  most  seasonings,  especially  oil  and  vinegar.  They  are 
better  served  warm  than  cold,  although  many  prefer  them 
in  the  latter  state.  When  steamed,  peeled,  and  sliced,  put 
them  in  the  salad-dish,  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  oil,  and 
parsley,  to  taste.  Mix  the  whole  gently  and  well,  and 
serve.  If  served  very  warm,  butter  may  be  used  instead 
of  oil. 

Another. — Add  to  the  above  a  few  anchovies,  or  slices 
of  pickled  cucumbers,  or  capers,  or  pickled  beets. 

Another. — Add  to  the  first  some  slices  of  truffles,  pre- 
viously soaked  in  Madeira  wine  for  ten  hours,  and  also  a 
little  of  the  wine. 

Another. — Put  a  hard-boiled  yolk  of  egg  in  the  salad- 


852  VEGETABLES. 

dish,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  oil,  and  mix  well  so  as 
to  make  a  paste  of  them  ;  then  add  two  anchovies,  a  piece 
of  tunny  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  half  a  dozen  sprigs  of 
chervil,  the  whole  chopped  fine ;  mix  again  with  the  rest ; 
add  also  a  chopped  pickled  cucumber,  mustard  to  taste, 
vinegar,  and  then  the  slices  of  potatoes  (warm  or  cold), 
slices  of  truffles  previously  soaked  in  Madeira  wine,  a  little 
of  the  wine  also,  salt,  and  pepper;  stir  and  mix  again  well 
and  serve. 

Apricots,  Oranges,  Peaches,  Pears,  Strawberries,  Rasp- 
berries, Blackberries,  Currants,  and  like  Berries,  in  Salad. 
— Dust  the  bottom  of  a  dish  with  white  sugar,  put  a  layer 
of  slices  of  apricots,  oranges,  peaches,  or  pears,  or  a  layer 
of  the  others  entire,  and  dust  again ;  repeat  the  same  till 
the  whole  is  in,  then  add  over  the  whole  a  pinch  of  grated 
nutmeg,  with  French  brandy  or  rum  to  suit  your  taste,  and 
serve  as  a  dessert 

Cocoa-nut. — Peel  it  carefully  and  soak  it  in  brandy  for 
twenty-four  hours.  A  little  sugar  may  be  added ;  serve 
as  a  dessert. 

Salad  Macedoine. — This  salad  ought  to  be  called 
"  compound  salad,"  as  it  is  made  of  a  little  of  every  thing 
that  can  be  served  in  salad,  i.  e.,  fish,  meat,  green  and  dry 
vegetables,  &c.  When  the  whole  is  mixed,  you  add 
chopped  parsley,  sweet-oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper;  you 
shake  it  till  your  arms  are  sore,  and  you  have  a  salad  Mace- 
doine. Every  one  should  try  it ;  serve  as  an  entremets. 

Salmon  and  Turbot. — Cut  in  slices,  place  them  in  a 
salad-dish,  with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  two,  or  with  some 
lettuce,  and  serve  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  with  salt,  pepper,  oil, 
and  vinegar. 

Of  Pineapple. — Proceed  as  for  that  of  apricots,  eta, 
in  every  particular. 


VEGETABLES.  353 

Of  Anchovy. — Clean  and  bone  the  anchovies,  and  then 
place  them  in  the  middle  of  a  dish ;  chop  fine  some  hard- 
boiled  yolks  of  eggs  and  put  a  string  of  it  around  the  an- 
chovies; do  the  same  with  the  whites,  and  then  put  a 
string  of  chopped  parsley  around  the  whites ;  season  with 
oil  and  very  little  vinegar.  Serve  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre. 

Pickles  and  Preserves. — To  pickle  the  fruit,  it  must  be 
pickled  before  commencing  to  ripen,  and  be  sound ;  the 
same  for  vegetables.  When  the  fruit  or  vegetable  is  clean, 
and  cut  in  pieces,  if  necessary,  such  as  cabbage,  have  water 
on  the  fire,  and  drop  it  in  at  the  first  boil.  If  the  fruit  or 
vegetable  is  desired  white,  add  to  the  water  lemon  or  un- 
ripe grape  juice.  It  is  necessary  to  be  very  careful  in 
blanching,  for,  if  too  much  blanched  or  cooked,  it  will  be 
soft  and  tasteless ;  if  not  enough,  it  will  ferment  As  a 
general  rule,  it  is  cooked  as  soon  as  it  floats,  but  it  can  be 
ascertained  by  running  a  skewer  or  a  small  knife  through 
it  By  putting  some  fresh  spinach-leaves  or  fresh  grape- 
vine-leaves on  the  top  of  the  fruit  or  vegetable,  it  will  keep 
it  more  green  than  without.  When  blanched,  take  from 
the  fire  and  drain.  Drop  it  immediately  in  cold  water, 
and  drain  again.  When  dry,  put  the  fruit  or  vegetable 
in  jars,  cover  it  with  boiling  vinegar ;  season  with  pep- 
pers, pepper-corns,  cloves,  and  tarragon,  also  some  rock- 
salt.  When  perfectly  cold,  seal  the  jars  air-tight,  and  keep 
in  a  dark,  cool,  and  dry  closet.  Every  kind  of  fruit  or 
vegetables  can  be  pickled  in  the  same  way ;  the  only  dif- 
ference is  in  the  time  of  blanching  or  cooking,  which  is  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  fruit :  apples,  string-beans, 
beets,  cabbages,  cauliflowers,  cherries,  cucumbers,  lemons, 
melons,  mushrooms,  onions,  peaches,  pears,  plums,  pump- 
kins, quinces,  radishes,  walnuts,  etc.,  may  also  be  preserved 
in  salt  and  water,  and  in  the  following  way  :  When  cooked 


554:  VEGETABLES. 

as  above,  put  them  in  jars  and  cover  them  with  very  salt 
water.  Seal  when  cool,  and  then  put  the  jars  in  a  boiler 
full  of  cold  water,  with  straw  or  rags  to  prevent  breaking 
them  ;  set  on  the  fire,  boil  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes, 
take  from  the  fire,  let  cool ;  then  take  the  jars  from  the 
water  and  put  away  as  the  above. 

Peas  and  mushrooms  are  almost  always  preserved  in 
water  and  salt. 

Asparagus  is  also  preserved,  but  it  is  so  difficult  to 
succeed,  that  even  manufacturers  of  preserves  have  given 
it  up. 

Tomatoes. — Wash  them  and  then  bruise  them  in  a 
boiler ;  set  on  the  fire,  boil  half  an  hour,  and  strain,  to  se- 
cure all  the  juice.  Put  the  juice  on  the  fire,  boil  till  reduced 
about  one-half,  let  cool,  put  in  jars,  seal  them,  put  them  in  a 
boiler  of  cold  water,  with  straw  or  rags  to  prevent  break- 
age ;  set  the  boiler  on  the  fire,  boil  twenty  minutes,  take 
off",  let  cool.  When  perfectly  cold,  take  the  jars  off,  place 
in  a  cool,  dark  cellar,  and  we  warrant  that  they  keep  for 
years.  No  salt  or  seasonings  of  any  kind  are  used  to  pre- 
serve them.  When  you  wish  to  use  them,  season  to  taste. 

Tomato  Catsup. — To  make  catsup  with  the  above 
sauce,  you  have  only  to  add  to  it,  when  in  jars,  peppers, 
pimento,  cloves,  etc. ;  but  it  is  really  not  necessary,  being 
too  strong  for  this  climate. 

Another  way. — Take  good  and  well-ripened  tomatoes, 
clean  and  wash  them  well,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  and  set  it 
on  a  moderate  fire  for  a  while ;  take  from  the  fire,  throw 
away  the  water  coming  from  them,  and  then  strain  them 
into  a  vessel.  Put  what  there  is  in  the  vessel  back  on  the 
fire,  and  in  the  same  stewpan,  and  let  it  reduce  about  one- 
half;  take  from  the  fire,  pour  in  a  crockery  pot,  and  leave 
thus  twenty -four  hours ;  then  put  in  bottles,  cork  well,  and 
place  them  in  a  cold  and  dry  place. 


VEGETABLES.  355 

Cucumbers. — The  small  green  ones  are  the  best.  Clean 
them  well  in  cold  water  with  a  brush,  removing  the  prickles. 
Put  cold  water  in  a  vessel  with  rock-salt  in  it,  and  shake  it 
to  dissolve  the  salt ;  soak  the  cucumbers  in  it  for  about 
three  days.  Take  them  out  and  immediately  put  them 
in  pots  or  jars  with  small  onions,  a  few  cloves  of  garlic, 
pepper-corns,  rock-salt,  cloves,  and  a  bunch  of  seasonings 
composed  of  bay-leaves,  tarragon,  and  burnet ;  cover  them 
with  boiling  vinegar  (turn  the  vinegar  on  them  as  soon  as  it 
boils),  cover  the  pots  or  jars  air-tight  when  perfectly  cold. 
Look  at  the  cucumbers  every  two  or  three  days  for  the 
first  three  weeks,  and  after  that  only  once  in  a  while. 
According  to  the  quality  of  the  vinegar  or  of  the  cucum- 
ber itself,  the  whole  may  turn  white  after  a  while ;  in  that 
case  throw  away  vinegar  and  spices,  put  new  spices  in,  the 
same  spices  as  above,  except  the  onions,  which  you  keep 
with  the  cucumbers;  cover  again  with  boiling  vinegar, 
and  cover  when  cold  as  before.  If  they  have  not  been 
kept  too  long  in  that  state  before  changing  the  vinegar, 
they  will  be  just  as  good  as  if  they  had  not  turned  white. 


EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND   RICE. 


EGGS  are  fit  to  eat  as  soon  as  laid,  and  the  sooner  they 
are  used  the  better.  You  ascertain  if  they  are  fresh  with 
an  oonoscope,  or  by  holding  them  before  a  light  and  look- 
ing through.  There  are  several  ways  to  preserve  eggs, 
but  to  do  which  they  must  be  fresh ;  as  soon  as  perfectly 
cold  after  being  laid,  they  may  be  preserved.  Dissolve 
gum  in  water  to  the  consistency  of  thin  mucilage,  and 
with  a  brush  give  a  coat  of  it  to  the  eggs ;  lay  them  in  a 
box  of  charcoal  dust  and  keep  them  in  a  dry,  dark,  and 
cool  place.  When  wanted,  they  are  soaked  in  cold  water 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  washed.  They  are  also  preserved 
in  hydrate  of  lime.  When  boiled  hard,  let  them  cool  and 
place  them  in  a  dry,  cool,  and  dark  place ;  they  will  keep 
for  weeks.  If  wanted  warm  after  that,  put  them  in  cold 
water,  set  on  the  fire,  and  take  off  when  the  water  is  warm. 

With  Mushrooms. — Cut  in  strips  or  fillets  four  mush- 
rooms, one  onion,  one  clove  of  garlic,  and  fry  them  with 
two  ounces  of  butter,  then  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir 
for  about  one  minute,  add  also  half  a  pint  of  broth,  same 
of  white  wine,  boil  gently  till  reduced  about  one-half,  when 
put  in  the  pan  eight  or  ten  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  dice, 
or  cut  the  whites  only  in  dice  and  put  in  the  yolk  whole, 
boil  one  minute  and  serve.  It  makes  an  excellent  dish  for 
breakfast. 


EGGS,   MACABONI,    AND   BICE.  357 

With  Cheese  and  Parsley. — Put  about  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire,  and  when  melted  fry  in 
it  a  tablespoonful  of  parsley,  chopped  fine ;  then  add  a 
pinch  of  nutmeg,  salt,  pepper,  about  four  ounces  of  pine- 
apple or  Gruyere  cheese,  grated,  and  a  gill  of  white  wine  ; 
stir  till  the  cheese  is  melted,  when  you  add  eight  or  ten 
eggs,  one  after  another,  stirring  the  whole  time  and  mixing 
them  with  the  cheese;  serve  when  done.  More  cheese 
may  be  used,  according  to  taste. 

In  fricassee. — Put  about  half  a  pound  of  stale  bread 
with  one  pint  of  milk  in  a  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  boil  for 
two  or  three  minutes,  then  mash  well  so  as  to  mix  the  two 
together,  put  back  on  the  fire,  stir  continually  till  it  makes 
a  rather  thin  paste,  then  take  off,  mix  with  it  six  or  eight 
eggs,  grated  cheese  to  taste,  salt  and  pepper,  put  back  on 
the  fire,  stir,  and  serve  when  cooked.  Lemon-juice  may  be 
eprinkled  on  just  before  serving. 

A  la  Lyonnaise.—Choip  fine  two  white  onions  and  fry 
them  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  then  add  salt,  a  pinch  of 
nutmeg,  half  a  pint  of  broth ;  boil  gently  and  stir  now  and 
then  till  it  turns  rather  thick,  when  you  add  also  eight 
whites  of  eggs,  chopped ;  give  one  boil,  and  serve.  Place 
the  eight  yolks,  whole,  all  around,  and  between  and  alter- 
nately a  small  cake  feuillete,  and  serve  warm. 

A  la  Bechamel. — Slice  the  eggs  or  cut  them  in  four 
pfeces  lengthwise,  put  them  in  Bechamel  sauce,  set  on  a 
slow  fire  for  two  minutes,  and  serve  warm. 

Fines  fferbes. — Mix  well  together  in  a  saucepan,  and 
cold,  two  ounces  of  butter  with  a  tablespoonful  of  flour ; 
get  on  the  fire,  stir,  and  when  melted  thoroughly,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  parsley  and  one  of  chives,  chopped  fine,  salt, 
pepper,  and  about  a  gill  of  white  wine ;  stir,  and  boil 
gently  for  about  five  minutes,  and  turn  over  hard-boiled 


358  EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND   RICE. 

eggs  in  a  dish ;  serve  warm.  The  eggs  are  served  whole, 
shelled,  but  not  cut. 

Piquante- Sauce. — Dish  hard-boiled  eggs  as  for  fines 
heroes,  and  turn  over  them  a  piquante  sauce ;  serve 
warm.  They  may  be  served  in  the  same  way  with  any 
other  sauce. 

Stuped,  or  a  VAurore. — Cut  six  hard-boiled  eggs  in 
two  lengthwise ;  take  the  yolks  off  the  whites ;  chop  them 
fine  with  six  or  eight  sprigs  of  parsley,  put  both  eggs  and 
parsley  in  a  bowl ;  add  salt,  pepper,  a  little  nutmeg  grated, 
a  piece  of  the  soft  part  of  bread  soaked  in  milk  and 
squeezed,  three  ounces  of  butter,  mix  the  whole  well. 
Then  with  the  mixture  fill  the  whites,  that  is,  the  place 
where  the  yolks  were  ;  fill  a  little  more  than  full,  so  that 
all  the  mixture  will  go  into  and  upon  the  twelve  halves. 
Lay  in  a  saucepan  a  puree  of  spinach  or  of  sorrel,  or  of 
any  other  vegetable,  according  to  taste ;  lay  the  halves  of 
eggs  on  it,  the  mixture  upward  ;  put  for  ten  minutes  in 
the  oven,  and  serve  warm. 

In  Boxes. — Fold  note-paper  so  as  to  make  a  kind  of 
square  box  without  a  cover ;  put  half  an  ounce  of  butter 
in  it  with  a  pinch  of  chopped  parsley;  lay  it  on  a  grid- 
iron and  on  a  slow  fire,  break  an  egg  in  it,  and  when 
nearly  done  add  salt  and  bread-crumbs,  to  taste ;  serve 
warm  when  done. 

With  Cheese. — Prepare  as  the  above;  add  grated 
cheese  at  the  same  time  you  add  salt  and  bread-crumbs; 
finish  the  cooking,  and  serve  warm. 

Au  Gratin. — Chop  fine  six  or  eight  sprigs  of  parsley,  a 
shallot  if  handy,  or  a  small  onion,  half  an  ounce  of  the  soft 
part  of  bread,  an  anchovy,  and  then  mix  the  whole  well 
with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  mix  again  with  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  place  the  mixture  in  a  tin  dish,  place  on  a  slow  fire, 


EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND  EICE.  359 

and  when  getting  rather  dry  break  half  a  dozen  eggs  over 
it,  dust  with  bread-crumbs,  season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  when  nearly  done  spread  two  yolks  of  eggs  beaten, 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  water  over  the  whole,  and  serve 
warm. 

With  Ham. — Prepare  as  scrambled  eggs  with  the  ex- 
ception that  you  put  in  the  pan,  at  the  same  time  you  put 
in  the  eggs,  four  ounces  of  boiled  ham  cut  in  dice.  Serve 
the  same. 

With  Milk,  Water,  or  Cream. — These  three  names 
are  wrongly  applied  to  eggs  in  many  cook-books ;  they  are 
creams,  and  not  eggs. 

Ham  and  Eggs. — There  are  several  ways  of  preparing 
this  good  dish  ;  the  ham  may  be  raw  or  boiled  ;  in  slices 
or  in  dice  ;  mixed  with  the  eggs,  or  merely  served  under. 
Fry  the  ham  slightly,  dish  it  and  then  turn  fried  eggs  over 
it ;  or  fry  both  at  the  same  time,  the  eggs  being  whole  or 
scrambled,  according  to  taste. 

With  Asparagus. — Cut  in  pieces,  about  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  long,  a  gill  of  the  tender  part  of  asparagus,  throw 
it  in  boiling  water  with  a  little  salt ;  boil  as  directed,  and 
drain.  Beat  eight  eggs  just  enough  to  mix  the  yolks  with 
the  whites ;  put  them  in  a  stewpan,  season  with  a  pinch  of 
grated  nutmeg,  salt,  and  pepper ;  add  also  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  warm  water,  set  on  a  slow  fire,  stir  till  they  are  be- 
coming thick ;  then  add  four  ounces  of  butter,  stir  five 
minutes  longer ;  add  the  gill  of  asparagus ;  simmer  about 
five  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Boiled. — (See  EGGS  IN  THE  SHELL.) — Put  the  eggs  in 
boiling  water  with  a  little  salt,  as  near  as  possible  at  the 
first  boiling ;  leave  from  five  to  ten  minutes ;  take  out  and 
put  them  immediately  in  cold  water;  then  shell  them 
without  breaking  them,  and  use. 


360 

With  Brown  Butter. — Break  gently  in  a  plate  or  dish, 
and  without  breaking  the  yolks,  eight  eggs ;  sprinkle  salt 
and  pepper  on  them.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan, and  on  a  good  fire ;  when  turning  brown  subdue 
the  fire.  Put  also,  and  at  the  same  time,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  butter  in  another  frying-pan,  and  on  a  good  fire, 
and  when  hot,  place  the  eggs  in  without  breaking  the 
yolks ;  then  spread  over  the  eggs  the  brown  butter  you 
have  in  the  other ;  take  from  the  fire  when  you  see  the 
whites  becoming  hard ;  put  them  on  a  dish,  pour  on  them 
a  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  which  you  have  warmed  in  the 
pan  after  having  used  the  brown  butter,  and  serve. 

Fried. — Put  half  a  pound  of  lard  in  a  frying-pan,  and 
on  a  good  fire ;  when  hot,  break  gently,  one  by  one  (be- 
ing careful  not  to  break  the  yolk),  the  quantity  of  eggs 
you  can  put  in  the  pan  without  allowing  them  to  adhere 
together ;  turn  them  upside  down  once  with  a  spoon  or 
skimmer;  take  from  the  pan  with  a  skimmer  as  soon  as 
the  white  part  becomes  hard,  and  serve  with  fried  parsley 
around. 

Scrambled,  or  Mashed. — Beat  six  eggs  just  enough  to 
mix  the  whites  and  yolks  together  ;  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  and  set  on  the  fire ;  when  melted, 
take  from  the  fire,  add  salt,  pepper,  and  a  pinch  of  grated 
nutmeg,  then  the  eggs,  also  a  tablespoonful  of  broth  ;  put 
back  on  a  very  slow  fire,  stir  continually  till  cooked,  and 
serve  warm. 

Sur  le  Plat. — Butter  the  bottom  of  a  crockery  or  tin 
dish  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  break  into  the  dish  and 
over  the  butter,  gently  and  without  breaking  the  yolks, 
six  eggs ;  sprinkle  salt,  pepper,  and  grated  nutmeg  all  over, 
put  the  dish  on  a  slow  fire,  or  on  warm  cinders,  and  when 
the  white  is  hard,  serve.  They  must  be  served  in  the  dish 
in  which  they  are  cooked. 


361 

In  the  Shell. — Bear  in  mind  that  some  eggs  cook 
quicker  than  others.  Put  eggs  in  boiling  water  for  two 
minutes,  if  liked  soft  or  underdone ;  and  three  minutes,  if 
liked  more  done.  They  are  generally  served  enveloped  in 
a  napkin. 

In  Matelote. — Put  a  bottle  of  claret  wine  in  a  stewpan 
and  set  it  on  a  good  fire ;  add  to  it  two  sprigs  of  parsley, 
one  of  thyme,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  middling-sized  onion,  a 
clove,  a  bay-leaf,  salt,  and  pepper ;  boil  fifteen  minutes ; 
then  take  all  the  seasonings  out  and  have  your  wine  boil- 
ing gently ;  break  one  egg  in  by  letting  it  fall  gently  in 
order  to  have  it  entire,  and  then  take  it  out  immediately 
with  a  skimmer,  and  place  it  on  a  dish ;  do  the  same  with 
eight  eggs ;  keep  them  in  a  warm  (but  not  hot)  place. 
After  which  put  in  the  wine,  without  taking  it  from  the 
fire,  four  ounces  of  butter  kneaded  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  flour;  boil  till  reduced  to  a  proper  thickness,  pour  it 
on  the  eggs,  and  serve. 

With  Onions. — Cut  in  dice  three  middling-sized 
onions  and  put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of 
butter;  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  and  stir  now  and  then 
till  the  onions  are  turning  yellow,  then  sprinkle  on  them 
a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  salt,  and  pepper;  add  a  pint  of 
warm  water  and  boil  gently  till  rather  thick,  but  not  too 
much  so.  Put  into  the  saucepan  half  a  dozen  hard-boiled 
eggs  cut  in  four  pieces  each,  lengthwise,  boil  gently  two 
or  three  minutes  longer,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Green  Peas. — Proceed  as  for  eggs  with  asparagus, 
except  that  you  boil  a  gill  of  peas  instead  of  asparagus ; 
prepare  and  serve  in  the  same  way. 

With  Cauliflowers. — Blanch  the  cauliflowers  and  pro- 
seed  as  for  the  above.     Eggs  are  prepared  as  abovCj  with 
celery,  lettuce,  etc. 
16 


A  la  Tripe.— -Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  eggs 
with  onions,  except  that  you  use  milk  or  broth  instead  of 
water. 

A  la  Neige,  or  Floating  Island. — Beat  four  (or  more) 
whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  in  a  tin  saucepan 
one  pint  of  milk  and  one  ounce  of  sugar,  set  on  the  fire, 
and  as  soon  as  it  rises  put  lumps  of  the  whites  into  it  with 
a  skimmer,  turn  the  lumps  over  after  having  been  in  about 
half  a  minute,  leave  them  in  another  half  minute,  take 
them  oif  with  a  skimmer  also,  place  them  on  a  sieve  to 
allow  the  milk  that  may  be  around  the  lumps  to  drop. 
Put  in  a  tin  saucepan  four  yolks  of  eggs,  two  ounces  of 
sugar,  and  mix  well ;  add  the  milk  that  has  been  used  to 
cook  the  whites,  after  having  strained  it,  and  mix  again. 
Set  on  the  fire,  stir,  give  one  boil,  take  off,  add  a  few  drops 
of  essence  to  flavor;  turn  into  a  dish;  place  the  lumps  of 
whites  gently  on  the  liquor  and  they  will  float ,  and  serve 
cold.  If  the  liquor  is  desired  thicker,  use  onj/  half  of  the 
milk. 

To  poach  Eggs. — Set  cold  water  on  the  fire  in  a  frying- 
pan,  with  salt  and  vinegar  in  it,  a  tablespoonful  of  vin- 
egar to  a  quart  of  water.  As  soon  as  it  boils,  break  a 
fresh  egg  in  the  water  or  in  a  small  plate,  and  slide  it 
gently  into  the  water.  Then  with  a  skimmer  turn  the 
white  gently  and  by  degrees  over  the  yolk,  so  as  to  en- 
velop the  latter  in  the  former,  giving  the  eggs  an  elon- 
gated shape.  They  may  be  poached  hard  or  soft — hard 
when  the  yolk  is  cooked  hard  ;  soft  when  the  yolk  is 
still  in  a  soft  state. 

Fondue  of  Eggs. — Beat  well  six  eggs,  and  put  them  in  a 
gtewpan  with  two  ounces  of  Gruyere,  well  grated,  and  about 
one  cunce  of  butter;  set  on  a  brisk  fire,  and  leave  till  it 
becomes  rather  thick,  stirring  all  the  time  with  a  wooden 


EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND   BICE.  363 

spoon ;  take  from  the  fire,  add  pepper,  and  stir  a  little ; 
turn  over  on  a  warm  dish,  and  serve.  This  is  a  very 
favorite  dish  in  Italy,  and  also  in  Switzerland,  where  it 
originated. 

To  beat  Whites  of  Eggs. — Have  a  convenient  basin  ; 
break  the  eggs  gently ;  allow  the  whites  to  fall  in  the  basin 
and  retain  the  yolks  in  the  shell.  This  is  very  easily 
done  by  breaking  the  shell  about  the  middle,  opening 
slowly  so  as  to  let  the  white  fall,  and  at  the  same  time  re- 
tain the  yolk  in  one  of  the  halves  of  the  shell ;  if  some 
white  remains,  turn  the  yolk  from  one  half  into  the  other, 
and  vice  versa,  till  the  whole  of  it  has  fallen.  Then  add  a 
very  small  pinch  of  salt  to  prevent  the  curdling  of  the 
eggs ;  commence  by  beating  slowly  ;  beat  faster  and  faster, 
till  they  form  a  stiff  froth.  They  are  well  beaten  when, 
placing  a  twenty-five  and  a  ten-cent  silver  piece  on  the 
top,  they  are  firm  enough  to  bear  them.  If  the  pieces 
sink,  beat  again.  Always  beat  eggs  in  a  cool  place,  they 
will  rise  better  and  faster.  (See  EGG-BEATER.) 

Basin. — Pay  no  attention  to  the  old  prejudice  and 
belief  that  metal  is  not  good  to  beat  eggs  in.  The  best 
and  easiest  for  family  use,  in  which  one  as  well  as  a  dozen 
whites  of  eggs  can  be  easily  whisked,  is  of  block-tin,  and 
can  be  made  by  any  tinsmith.  It  has  the  shape  of  an 
ordinary  goblet  or  tumbler  if  the  foot  is  cut  off,  the 
bottom  being  round.  Size :  six  inches  deep  from  the  cen- 
tre of  the  bottom  to  the  top  ;  eight  inches  in  diameter  at 
the  top,  and  only  six  inches  in  diameter  where  the  bottom 
commences  (or  five  inches  fiom  the  top) ;  the  basin  being 
broader  at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom,  and  the  bottom 
being  one  inch  deeper  in  the  centre  than  on  the  sides. 

Omelets — how  to  beat  the  Eggs. — Break  in  a  bowl  the 
quantity  of  eggs  you  want,  or  as  many  as  there  are  per- 


364  EGGS,   MACARONI,    AND   RICE. 

sons  at  the  table ;  beat  them  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  by 
means  of  a  fork.  A  little  grated  nutmeg  may  be  added, 
if  liked.  The  adding  of  milk  to  the  eggs  makes  the  ome- 
let soft. 

To  make  it. — Always  have  a  brisk  fire  to  make  an  ome- 
let ;  the  quicker  it  is  made  the  better,  and  the  less  butter 
it  requires.  If  possible,  have  a  frying-pan  to  make  ome- 
lets only  in ;  keep  it  in  a  clean  place  and  never  wash 
it  if  you  can  help  it ;  by  warming  it  a  little  before  making 
the  omelets  and  wiping  it  with  a  coarse  towel,  you  can 
keep  it  as  clean  as  can  be  without  washing.  To  wash  it 
causes  the  omelet  to  adhere  to  it  while  cooking,  and  in- 
jures its  appearance.  Commence  by  beating  the  eggs, 
then  put  the  butter  in  the  frying-pan,  about  two  ounces 
for  eight  eggs ;  set  on  the  fire  and  toss  gently  to  melt  the 
butter  as  evenly  and  as  quickly  as  possible,  else  some  of 
it  will  get  black  before  the  whole  is  melted.  As  soon 
as  melted,  turn  the  beaten  eggs  in,  and  stir  and  move  con- 
tinually with  a  fork  or  knife,  so  as  to  cook  the  whole  as 
nearly  as  possible  at  the  same  time.  If  some  part  of  the 
omelet  sticks  to  the  pan,  add  a  little  butter,  and  raise  that 
part  with  a  knife  so  as  to  allow  the  butter  to  run  under 
it,  and  prevent  it  from  sticking  again.  It  must  be  done 
quickly,  and  without  taking  the  pan  from  the  fire.  When 
cooked  according  to  taste,  soft  or  hard,  fold,  dish,  and 
serve  warm. 

It  is  folded  in  this  way :  run  the  knife  or  fork  under 
one  part  of  the  omelet,  on  the  side  nearest  to  the  handle 
of  the  pan,  and  turn  that  part  over  the  other  part  of  the 
omelet,  so  as  to  double  it  or  nearly  so ;  then  have  an  oval 
dish  in  your  left  hand,  take  hold  of  the  frying-pan  with 
the  right  hand,  the  thumb  upward  instead  of  the  fingers, 
as  is  generally  the  case  in  taking  hold  of  a  pan,  incline 


EGGS,   MACABONI,   AND   BICE.  365 

the  dish  by  raising  the  left  side,  place  the  edge  of  the  pan 
(the  one  opposite  to  the  handle)  on  the  edge  of  the  dish, 
turn  it  upside  down — and  you  have  the  omelet  on  the 
dish,  doubled  up  and  sightly.  Cooks  do  not  succeed  in 
turning  out  a  decent  omelet  generally,  because  they  cook  it 
too  much,  turn  it  upside  down  in  the  pan,  or  because 
they  do  not  know  how  to  handle  the  pan. 

In  holding  the  pan  as  it  is  generally  and  naturally  held, 
that  is,  with  the  palm  of  the  hand  resting  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  handle,  it  is  impossible  for  anybody,  cook  or 
other,  to  dish  the  omelet  properly  without  extraordinary 
efforts ;  while  by  resting  the  thumb  on  the  upper  part  of 
the  handle,  the  fingers  under  it,  the  little  finger  being  the 
nearest  to  the  pan,  it  is  only  necessary  to  move  the  right 
hand  from  right  to  left,  describing  a  circle  and  twisting 
the  wrist,  so  that,  when  the  pan  is  turned  upside  down,  the 
fingers  are  up  instead  of  downward,  as  they  were  when 
taking  hold  of  the  pan. 

An  omelet  is  called  soft  if,  when  you  commence  to 
fold,  only  about  two-thirds  of  the  eggs  are  solidified  ;  and 
hard,  when  nearly  the  whole  of  the  eggs  are  solidified. 
With  a  good  fire  it  takes  only  about  four  minutes  to  make 
an  omelet. 

By  following  our  directions  carefully,  it  will  be  very 
easy  to  make  an  omelet,  and  make  it  well  and  sightly, 
even  the  first  time,  and  will  be  child's  play  to  make  one 
after  a  few  days'  practice. 

With  Apples. — Peel  two  or  three  apples,  cut  them  in 
thin,  round  slices,  fry  them  with  a  little  butter,  and  take 
them  from  the  pan  ;  then  put  a  little  more  butter  in  the 
pan,  and  when  hot,  pour  in  it  six  beaten  eggs,  in  which 
vou  have  mixed  the  slices  of  apples  ;  cook,  dish,  and  serve 
as  directed  above. 


366  EGGS,   MACARONI,    AND   BICE. 

With  Asparagus. — Cut  the  eatable  part  of  the  aspar- 
agus half  an  inch  in  length,  throw  them  in  boiling  water 
with  a  little  salt,  drain  them  when  cooked,  and  chop  them 
fine ;  beat  them  with  eggs  and  a  little  milk ;  have  hot 
butter  in  a  frying-pan  on  a  good  fire ;  pour  the  eggs  in, 
tossing  continually  till  done,  and  serve  on  a  dish  as  di- 
rected. 

With  Bacon. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying- 
pan  ;  when  melted,  add  two  ounces  of  bacon  cut  in  dice ; 
when  turning  brown  and  very  hot,  pour  in  eight  eggs, 
beaten  as  directed  above  ;  toss  the  pan  nearly  all  the  time 
till  done,  and  serve  as  directed. 

Au  naturel. — Beat  five  eggs,  with  salt  and  pepper,  as 
directed.  Put  about  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan 
on  the  fire,  and  when  melted,  turn  the  eggs  in ;  cook, 
dish,  and  serve  as  directed. 

Aux  Fines  Herbes. — Proceed  as  for  au  naturel  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  beat  with  the  eggs  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  or  parsley  and  chives,  when 
handy  ;  cook,  dish,  and  serve  in  the  same  way. 

Celestine. — Beat  eight  eggs  as  directed.  Dip  the 
point  of  a  small  kitchen  knife  in  water  and  cut  with  it 
little  lumps  of  butter  the  size  of  a  pea  and  of  any  shape  ; 
about  two  ounces  of  it,  drop  them  in  the  eggs  and  beat  a 
little  to  mix,  then  melt  butter  in  a  frying-pan  and  cook, 
dish,  and  serve  as  directed. 

In  the  Oven. — When  the  omelet  au  naturel  or  Celestine 
is  cooked  enough  to  commence  folding,  put  the  frying-pan 
in  a  quick  oven  for  about  one  minute  and  serve.  The 
omelet  swells  and  does  not  need  folding,  but  if  it  gains  in 
bulk,  it  loses  in  taste. 

Jardiniere. — Chop  fine,  parsley,  chives,  onions,  shallots, 
a  few  leaves  of  sorrel,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  chervil ;  beat 


EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND   KICK.  367 

and  mix  the  whole  well  with  beaten  eggs ;  cook,  dish,  and 
serve  as  directed.  It  requires  a  little  more  butter  than  if 
made  with  eggs  only. 

With  Cheese.  —  Grate  some  pint-apple  or  Gruyere 
cheese,  about  two  ounces  to  four  or  five  eggs,  and  mix  and 
beat  it  with  the  eggs  ;  then  make  the  omelet  as  directed. 

With  Kidney. — Saute  as  directed,  till  about  half  done, 
part  of  a  beef  or  calf  s  kidney,  or  one  sheep's  kidney, 
and  mix  it  with  beaten  eggs.  Cook  and  serve  as  directed. 
It  makes  an  excellent  dish  for  breakfast.  The  kidney 
may  be  cooked  till  done,  and  when  the  omelet  is  to  be 
folded  in  the  pan,  put  five  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
kidney  on  the  middle  of  the  omelet,  fold,  dish,  and  serve 
as  directed.  When  dished,  none  of  the  kidney  is  seen, 
being  under  the  omelet. 

With  Mushrooms.- — Cut  mushrooms  in  pieces,  and  mix 
them  with  beaten  eggs ;  then  cook  and  serve  them  as  di- 
rected. This  also  makes  an  excellent  dish  for  breakfast, 
especially  if  made  with  fresh  mushrooms. 

With  Sorrel. — Make  an  omelet  au  naturel  or  Celestine, 
and  serve  it  on  a  puree  of  sorrel.  The  same  may  be  served 
on  a  purte  of  tomatoes  or  onions. 

With  Lobster. — Cut  two  ounces  of  boiled  lobster  in 
small  dice,  mix  it  well  with  beaten  eggs,  and  cook  and 
serve  as  directed. 

With  Sugar. — Mix  well  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  with 
two  ounces  of  fine  white  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
beat  well  the  whites ;  then  mix  well  yolks,  whites,  and  the 
rind  of  half  a  lemon,  having  the  latter  chopped  very  fine. 
Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  set  it  on  the 
fire ;  when  melted,  pour  the  eggs  in,  and  toss  and  stir  as 
directed.  Then  dust  a  dish  with  fine  white  sugar,  put  the 
omelet  on,  then  dust  again  the  upper  side  with  the  same ; 


368  EGGS,    MACAKONI,    AND    RICE. 

have  ready  a  red-hot  shovel,  or  any  other  flat  piece  of  iron, 
pass  it  over  the  top  of  the  omelet,  so  as  to  color  it  while 
melting  the  sugar,  and  serve  warm.  The  whole  process 
must  be  performed  quickly.  The  sugar  may  be  beaten 
with  the  eggs  whole ;  both  ways  are  good ;  it  is  only  a 
question  of  taste. 

With  Rum. — Make  an  omelet  with  sugar  as  above,  and 
when  on  the  table,  pour  a  gill  or  so  of  rum  on  it,  set  fire 
to  it,  and  let  it  burn  as  long  as  it  can,  taking  slowly  but 
continually  with  a  silver  spoon  the  rum  from  the  sides,  and 
pouring  it  on  the  middle  while  it  is  burning,  and  until  it 
dies  out  by  itself;  then  eat  immediately. 

With  Truffles. — Slice  four  ounces  of  truffles,  beat  them 
with  six  eggs,  a  little  milk,  and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  in  a  frying-pan  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  set  it  on  a 
good  fire ;  when  melted,  pour  the  eggs  in,  toss  almost  con- 
tinually till  done,  and  serve  as  directed  for  omelets. 

With  Ham. — Cut  four  ounces  of  ham  in  small  dice, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan  with  about  two  ounces 
of  butter ;  stir,  and  while  the  ham  is  frying,  beat  six  eggs 
and  turn  them  over  the  ham  in  the  pan  when  the  latter  is 
fried ;  stir  with  a  fork,  to  cook  the  eggs  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible ;  turn  the  part  of  the  omelet  nearest  to  you  over  the 
other  part  by  means  of  a  fork,  and  serve  like  an  omelet 
au  naturel. 

With  Boiled  Ham. — Proceed  as  for  the  above  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  mix  the  ham  with  the  eggs  after 
the  latter  are  beaten ;  put  the  mixture  in  the  frying-pan, 
and  finish  as  the  above. 

With  Salt  PorJc  (called  omelet  au  Lard). — Beat  half 
a  dozen  eggs  with  a  fork.  Cut  four  ounces  of  salt  pork 
in  dice,  set  it  on  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  nearly 
fried  turn  the  eggs  in ;  stir,  and  finish  as  other  omelets, 


EGGS,    MACARONI,    AND   EICE.  369 

Lean  or  fat  salt  pork  (according  to  taste)  may  be  used,  or 
both.  If  it  is  all  lean,  use  some  butter,  otherwise  it  will 
burn. 

Soufflee.  —  Put  in  a  bowl  four  ounces  of  pulver- 
ized sugar  with  four  yolks  of  eggs ;  then  with  a  wooden 
spoon  mix  well  and  stir  for  two  minutes ;  add  a  few  drops 
of  essence  to  flavor.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth  in  another  bowl,  and  when  you  see  that  they  are 
beaten  enough,  turn  two  tablespoon fuls  of  the  yolks  and 
sugar  into  them,  and  while  still  beating,  but  not  as  fast ; 
then  turn  the  rest  of  the  yolks  and  sugar  into  the  whites, 
and  mix  gently  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Butter  a  tin  or 
silver  dish,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  smooth  or  scallop 
with  the  back  of  a  knife,  dust  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  an 
oven  at  about  310°.  It  takes  about  twelve  minutes  to  bake. 

Another. — Mix  well  six  yolks  of  eggs  with  four  ounces 
of  sugar;  beat  the  six  whites  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them 
with  the  rest,  add  some  lemon-rind  chopped  very  fine  or 
grated.  Put  four  ounces  of  butter  in  a  crockery  dish,  set 
on  a  moderate  fire,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted  pour  the 
eggs  in ;  stir  with  a  fork,  and  as  soon  as  you  see  some  of 
the  mixture  becoming  hard,  place  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven 
for  about  five  minutes;  take  off,  dust  with  sugar,  and 
serve. 

Macedoine,  or  a  la  Washington. — Make  four  omelets 
of  four  eggs  each,  one  with  apples,  one  with  asparagus  or 
sorrel  (according  to  the  season),  a  third  with  fines  herbes, 
and  the  fourth  au  naturel ;  you  serve  them  on  the  same 
dish,  one  lapping  over  the  other.  It  makes  a  fine  as  well 
as  a  good  dish. 

This  omelet,  or  rather  these  omelets,  were  a  favonte 
dish  with  the  Father  of  his  Country;  they  were  very  often 
served  on  his  table  when  he  had  a  grand  dinner.   It  is  also 
16* 


370  EGGS,   MACARONI,   AND   EICE. 

served  with  the  four  following  omelets :  au  naturel,  with 
«alt  pork,  fines  herbes,  and  with  cheese. 

With  Oysters.  —  Blanch  a  dozen  oysters,  drain,  and 
beat  with  the  eggs,  and  then  proceed  as  directed. 

With  Tunny,  or  any  kind  of  smoked  or  salt  Fish.— 
Beat  the  eggs  as  directed,  using  little  or  DO  salt;  then 
chop  the  fish  fine,  mix  and  beat  it  with  the  eggs,  and  cook 
as  directed.  It  requires  a  little  more  butter  than  if  there 
were  no  fish.  A  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  may  be  added 
when  dished. 

With  Sweetmeats. — Make  an  omelet  au  naturel,  ana 
when  ready  to  be  folded  in  the  pan,  place  on  the  middle 
of  it  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  any  kind  of  sweet- 
meats, then  fold  and  serve. 

Omelets  are  served  as  entremets  after  the  vegetables,  and 
at  breakfast.  All  but  four  are  served  as  entremets,  and  all 
are  served  at  breakfast ;  the  four  excepted  are :  with  ba- 
con, ham,  salt  pork,  and  kidneys.  By  using  different 
kinds  of  sweetmeats,  an  infinite  number  of  omelets  can 
be  made,  and,  except  the  soufflee,  they  are  all  made  alike. 

Macaroni. — This  excellent  article  of  food  is  now  as 
well  known  here  as  in  Europe.  The  harder  the  wheat  the 
better  the  macaroni.  The  manufacturers  of  this  country 
use  Michigan  flour  in  preference  to  any  other. 

To  blanch. — Put  about  three  pints  of  cold  water  and 
a  little  salt  on  the  fire,  and  at  the  first  boiling  drop  half  a 
pound  of  macaroni  into  it ;  boil  gently  till  tender  but  not 
soft.  It  takes  about  twenty  minutes  to  boil  it,  according 
to  quality.  A  little  butter,  about  two  ounces,  may  be 
added  in  boiling.  As  soon  as  tender,  turn  it  into  a  colan- 
der, and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Au  Gratin. — Blanch  the  macaroni,  and  when  drained 
put  it  on  a  tin  or  silver  dish,  and  mix  with  it  a  Bechamel 


371 

sauce ;  add  salt,  pepper,  two  or  three  ounces  of  butter,  a 
little  nutmeg  grated,  about  four  ounces  of  grated  cheese, 
either  pine-apple,  Gruyere,  or  Parmesan ;  dust  with  bread- 
crumbs, put  about  eight  pieces  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
hazel-nut  here  and  there  on  the  top,  set  in  a  warm  but 
not  quick  oven  till  the  top  turns  rather  brown,  and  serve 
warm  as  it  is,  that  is,  in  the  dish  in  which  it  is.  If  in  a 
tin  dish,  put  it  inside  of  another  dish,  and  serve. 

A  ritalienne. —  Blanch  half  a  pound  of  macaroni 
and  drain  it  Put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  four  ounces  of 
butter,  and  mix  well  by  stirring  the  butter  in  the  warm 
macaroni.  Then  add  also  three  or  four  tablespoon fuls  of 
gravy;  mix  again  half  a  pint  of  tomato-sauce  and  grated 
cheese,  as  for  au  gratin  ;  set  on  the  fire,  stir,  add  salt  to 
taste ;  keep  on  the  fire  for  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  now 
and  then,  and  serve  warm. 

Napolitaine. — This  is  the  most  expensive  way  of  pre- 
paring macaroni.  Wealthy  Italians  have  it  prepared  with 
beef  a  la  mode  gravy  only,  or  gravy  made  especially  for 
it,  with  good  lean  beef  cut  in  dice,  and  using  as  many  as 
twelve  pounds  of  meat  to  make  gravy  for  one  pound  of 
macaroni,  the  meat  being  prepared  as  boiled  beef  after- 
ward, but  it  can  be  prepared  with  ordinary  gravy. 

Blanch  four  ounces  of  macaroni  and  drain  as  directed, 
then  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  salt, 
pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  set  on  the  fire ;  stir 
till  the  butter  is  melted,  and  then  add  grated  cheese  as 
directed  for  au  gratin,  and  half  a  pint  of  gravy;  stir  and 
mix  for  about  ten  minutes,  and  serve.  Macaroni  requires 
much  butter ;  the  quantity  of  cheese  is  according  to  taste ; 
some  put  weight  for  weight  of  macaroni,  butter,  and 
cheese.  It  is  also  prepared  in  a  mould  (en  timbale)  for 
chartreuse  •  it  is  macaroni  Napolilaine,  when  every  thing 


372  EGGS, 

is  mixed  with  it ;  instead  of  leaving  it  ten  minutes  on  the 
fire,  put  it  in  the  mould,  set  in  the  oven  for  about  fifteen 
minutes,  turn  over  a  dish,  and  serve  warm.  In  using  much 
cheese,  the  macaroni  will  preserve  the  form  of  the  mould 
when  served. 

In  Croquettes. — Proceed  as  for  rice  croquettes. 

Rice — to  boiL— Wash  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  water 
and  drain  it ;  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  one  quart  of  broth 
taken  from  the  top  of  the  broth-kettle,  and  before  having 
skimmed  off  the  fat ;  set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  for  about 
fifteen  minutes,  or  till  rather  underdone,  and  put  on  a 
very  slow  fire  to  finish  the  cooking.  Water  and  butter 
may  be  used  instead  of  broth.  If  the  broth  is  absorbed 
or  boiled  away  before  the  rice  is  cooked,  add  a  little  more 
to  keep  it  moist ;  add  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg  to  taste, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Another  way. — When  boiled,  place  it  in  a  slow  oven 
to  dry  it,  and  then  pour  over  it,  little  by  little,  stirring  the 
while,  four  ounces  of  melted  butter. 

Another. — Wash  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  cold  water 
and  drain  it.  Pat  it  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of 
cold  water,  salt,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons;  boil  six 
minutes,  and  drain;  put  it  in  a  saucepan  then  with  about 
six  ounces  of  melted  butter ;  mix,  cover  the  pan  well,  and 
put  it  in  a  slow  oven  for  about  half  an  hour ;  take  off  and  use. 

Rice  may  be  boiled  in  several  different  ways,  or  rather 
with  several  ingredients.  To  the  above  ways,  in  India  or 
other  southern  countries,  they  add,  besides  salt  and  nut- 
meg, a  teaspoonful  of  curry-powder  to  a  pound  of  rice. 
In  Italy  they  add  slices  of  ham,  sausage,  saffron,  and  even 
Parmesan  cheese.  When  cooked,  chopped  truffles  may  be 
added  at  the  same  time  with  the  butter.  Oil  is  sometimes 
used  instead  of  butter. 


EGGS,   MACABONI,   AND  BICE.  373 

In  Border. — When  thus  prepared,  take  it  with  a  spoon 
and  place  it  all  around  the  dish,  leaving  room  in  the  mid- 
dle to  serve  a  bird,  and  then  serve  warm. 

Another  way. — When  prepared  as  above,  put  the  rice 
in  a  mould  for  border;  the  rice  must  be  rather  dry  and 
the  mould  well  buttered.  Press  on  it  so  as  to  fill  the 
mould  well,  then  put  it  in  an  oven  at  about  350  deg.  Fahr. 
for  ten  or  twelve  minutes.  Take  off,  place  a  dish  on  the 
mould,  turn  it  upside  down,  and  remove  the  mould.  The 
inside  of  a  mould,  for  border,  is  plain,  but  the  outside 
and  bottom  are  scalloped ;  the  bottom  makes  the  top  of 
the  rice  when  served.  There  is  an  empty  place  in  the 
centre  to  hold  a  bird. 

Cake. — Butter  a  mould  well  and  then  dust  it  with  su- 
gar. Prepare  rice  as  directed  for  croquettes,  and  instead 
of  spreading  it  on  a  dish  to  cool,  fill  the  mould  about  two- 
thirds  full  with  it,  and  bake  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven 
for  about  half  an  hour.  Serve  on  a  dish.  The  mould 
may  be  prepared  with  sugar  only  in  this  way :  put  pul- 
verized sugar  into  the  mould,  set  it  on  a  rather  slow 
fire,  and  when  turning  rather  brown  turn  the  mould  round 
and  round,  so  as  to  have  it  lined  all  over  with  sugar ;  bake 
as  above,  turn  over  a  dish,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve 
hot  or  cold,  with  or  without  a  sauce  for  puddings. 

In  Croquettes. — Wash  four  ounces  of  rice  in  cold  water 
and  set  it  on  the  fire  with  a  pint  of  milk  and  the  rind  of 
half  a  lemon  ;  when  done  or  nearly  so,  the  milk  may  be 
boiled  away  or  absorbed  by  the  rice ;  add  a  little  more  to 
keep  the  rice  nearly  covered  with  it.  When  done,  take 
off  and  mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  two  ounces 
of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  three  yolks  of  eggs,  a 
little  pinch  of  salt,  and  the  same  of  nutmeg — the  latter,  if 
liked.  Put  back  on  the  fire  for  one  minute,  stirring  the 


374 

while.  Spread  the  mixture  on  a  dish  and  let  cool.  If  the 
croquettes  are  for  breakfast,  the  above  may  be  done  the 
evening  previous.  When  cold,  stir  the  mixture,  so  as  to 
mix  the  upper  part  with  the  rest  that  is  less  dry.  Put  it 
in  parts  on  the  paste-board,  about  a  tablespoonful  for  each 
part.  Have  bread-crumbs  on  it,  roll  each  part  of  the  shape 
you  wish,  either  round,  like  a  small  sausage,  or  flat,  or  of 
a  chop-shape.  Then  dip  each  croquette  in  beaten  egg,  roll 
in  bread-crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  (See  FRYING.) 

To  shape  them,  roll  each  part  round  at  first,  and  with 
a  few  bread-crumbs ;  then  with  a  knife  you  smooth  both 
ends,  while  you  roll  them  round  with  the  left  hand ;  the 
two  must  be  done  at  the  same  time.  "When  fried  and  in 
the  colander,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possi- 
ble. Croquettes  are  generally  served  in  pyramid.  A  nap- 
kin may  be  spread  on  the  platter,  and  the  croquettes  served 
on  it. 

In  Fritters. — When  a  rice-cake  is  cold,  it  may  be  cut 
in  pieces,  dipped  in  batter  for  fritters,  fried  (see  FRYING), 
dusted  with  sugar,  and  served  hot. 

Souffle. — Prepare  rice  as  directed  for  croquettes,  and 
when  ready  to  be  spread  on  a  dish,  add  a  few  drops  of  es- 
sence to  flavor ;  have  five  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff 
froth,  and  mix  them  gently  with  it ;  butter  a  mould  well, 
fill  it  two-thirds  full  with  the  mixture,  dust  with  sugar  and 
set  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven,  and  serve  as  soon  as 
brown  and  raised.  It  takes  from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes. 
If  the  oven  is  warmer  under  the  cake  than  on  the  top,  it 
would  be  necessary  to  place  something  under  the  mould, 
the  cake  rises  better  and  is  lighter.  This  cake,  like  every 
souffle,  must  be  served  promptly  and  before  it  falls. 

With  Fruit. — This  dish  is  excellent,  sightly,  easily 
made,  and  can  be  varied  infinitely.  The  rice  is  prepared 


375 

as  for  croquettes,  and  is  used  when  ready  to  be  spread  over 
a  dish  to  cool.  The  fruit,  if  it  be  apples,  pears,  plums,  etc., 
is  stewed.  One  or  several  kinds  may  be  used  for  the  same 
dish.  It  is  served  warm  or  cold,  according  to  taste.  Place 
a  layer  of  stewed  fruit  on  a  dish  and  then  a  layer  of  rice 
over  it ;  another  layer  of  the  same  or  of  another  stewed 
fruit,  and  over  it  a  layer  of  rice.  Place  as  many  layers  as 
you  fancy,  imitating  a  pyramid,  and  you  have  a  fine  dish. 

Hice-water. — This  being  often  prescribed  by  doctors 
against  diarrhoea,  we  will  give  the  receipt  for  it.  See  that 
the  rice  is  clean,  but  do  not  wash  it.  Put  one  pint  of  rice 
in  a  pan  with  a  quart  of  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  till  the 
rice  is  quite  soft  or  a  little  overdone ;  if  the  water  boils 
away,  fill  up  with  cold  water  so  as  to  have  the  rice  always 
covered  by  it.  When  done,  mash  it  through  a  colander, 
put  back  on  the  fire,  add  water  to  make  it  thin  or  thick, 
according  to  prescription ;  as  soon  as  warm,  sweeten  to 
taste  with  sugar  or  honey,  and  take  cold  or  warm,  also  ac- 
cording to  prescription. 

Nouilles. — Put  four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  on  the 
paste-board ;  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and  break  two 
eggs  in  it,  add  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  knead  well;  then 
roll  down  to  a  thickness  of  one-twelfth  of  an  inch  ;  dust  it 
slightly  with  flour ;  cut  it  in  strips  about  an  inch  wide ; 
then  cut  these  strips  across,  so  aa  to  make  fillets  one  inch 
long  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  broad.  Spread  the  strips 
on  a  sieve  for  half  an  hour,  to  dry  them  a  little.  Put  cold 
water  and  a  pinch  of  salt  in  a  saucepan,  and  set  it  on  the 
fire ;  at  the  first  boiling  throw  the  nouilles  in,  boil  two 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally ;  drain,  throw  them  in  cold 
water  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  It  may  be  kept  in  cold 
water  half  a  day.  Nouilles  are  used  to  make  soup,  and 
tre  prepared  in  the  same  and  every  way  like  macaroni. 


SWEET    DISHES. 


THESE  are  served  both  as  entremets  and  dessert.  Many 
are  entremets  at  a  grand  dinner,  and  dessert  at  a  family 
dinner.  As  the  name  indicates,  sugar  is  one  of  the  most 
important  of  the  compounds  used  to  prepare  them.  It  is 
used  in  syrup,  the  making  of  which  is  generally  more  diffi- 
cult than  the  rest  of  the  operation. 

The  father  of  cooks,  the  great  CAREME,  divides  syrup, 
or  the  "  cooking  of  sugar,"  as  he  calls  it,  and  as  every 
practitioner  has  called  it  since,  into  six  degrees ;  each  one 
corresponding  to  the  six  different  states  into  which  the 
sugar  passes,  while  on  the  fire,  from  the  time  it  begins  to 
boil  to  that  when  it  begins  to  turn  caramel  or  burned. 

A  copper  pan  is  the  best  and  handiest  of  all ;  it  can  be 
done  in  another,  but  it  is  more  difficult ;  the  sugar  turns 
Drown  before  being  thoroughly  cooked  or  reduced.  Al- 
ways use  good  loaf  sugar.  If  it  be  necessary  to  clarify  it, 
do  it  in  the  following  way :  for  five  pounds  of  sugar,  put 
the  white  of  an  egg  in  a  bowl  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  and 
beat  well  with  an  egg-beater ;  then  turn  into  it  nearly  three 
pints  of  water,  stir,  put  away  half  a  pint  of  it  to  be  used 
afterward.  Then  add  to  the  rest  five  pounds  of  sugar,  in 


SWEET    DISHES.  377 

lumps,  set  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  conies  to 
a  boil,  mix  with  it  the  half  pint  put  away,  little  by  little, 
skimming  off  carefully  the  while,  and  when  no  more  scum 
gathers  on  the  surface,  strain  through  a  towel  and  com- 
mence the  working.  If  the  sugar  does  not  require  to  be 
clarified,  that  is,  when  it  is  good  white  sugar,  set  five 
pounds  of  it  on  the  fire,  in  a  copper  pan,  with  nearly  two 
quarts  of  water,  and  skim  off  carefully  as  soon  as  the  scum 
gathers.  It  may  be  stirred  a  little  to  cause  the  sugar  to 
melt  evenly,  but  as  soon  as  it  commences  to  boil,  stop  stir- 
ring, else  it  will  turn  white  and  stringy.  It  passes  from 
on6  state  or  degree  to  another  in  a  very  short  time,  and 
must  be  watched  closely.  It  is  at  the  fast  degree  when, 
by  dipping  a  piece  of  wood  into  it  so  as  to  retain  a  drop 
of  it  at  the  end,  and  which  you  touch  with  another  piece 
of  wood — if,  by  pulling  them  apart,  slowly  and  immedi- 
ately, instead  of  separating  it  at  once,  it  forms  a  thread,  but 
that  soon  breaks.  It  marks  then  34  at  the  hydrometer. 
It  is  at  the  second  degree  when,  by  repeating  the  same  pro- 
cess, the  kind  of  thread  formed  does  not  break  as  easily  as 
the  first.  It  marks  then  36.  It  is  at  the  third  degree 
when,  by  dipping  a  skimmer  in  it,  holding  it  horizon- 
tally and  striking  it  on  the  pan,  then  blowing  on  it,  it 
forms  small  bubbles.  It  marks  39  at  the  hydrometer.  It 
is  at  the  fourth  degree  by  trying  again  with  the  skimmer 
after  a  short  time,  and  when,  instead  of  forming  bubbles, 
it  will  fly  away  like  threads.  It  marks  then  41.  The 
fifth  degree  is  when,  by  dipping  a  piece  of  wood  in  the 
sugar  and  quickly  dipping  it  also  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water, 
shaking  it  at  the  same  time  and  then  biting  it ;  if  it  breaks 
easily  between  the  teeth,  but  at  the  same  time  is  sticky,  it 
has  attained  the  fifth  degree,  and  marks  44.  A  few  boil- 
ings more  and  it  is  at  the  sixth  degree,  and  by  trying  in  the 


378  SWEET   DISHES. 

same  way  as  the  preceding  one,  it  will  break  under  the 
teeth,  but  will  not  stick  to  them.  Above  44  the  mark  is 
uncertain,  the  syrup  being  too  thick  ;  it  passes  from  that 
state  to  that  of  caramel ;  is  colored,  and  would  burn  imme- 
diately. When  that  happens,  make  burnt  sugar  with  it 
according  to  direction. 

Apples  au  Beurre. — Peel  and  core  the  apples  with  a 
fruit-corer.  Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  about  one-quarter 
of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  then  cut  them  again  of  a 
round  shape  with  a  paste-cutter  and  of  the  size  of  the  ap- 
ples. Spread  some  butter  on  each  slice  and  place  an  apple 
on  each  also.  Butter  a  bakepan,  place  the  apples  and 
bread  in,  fill  the  hole  made  in  the  middle  of  the  apple  to 
core  it  with  sugar ;  place  on  the  top  of  the  sugar  and  on 
each  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  hazel-nut,  and  set  in  a 
warm,  but  not  quick  oven.  When  about  half  done,  fill  the 
hole  again  with  sugar  and  a  pinch  of  cinnamon,  place  but- 
ter on  top  as  before,  and  finish  the  cooking,  serve  warm. 
When  done,  they  may  be  glazed  with  apple-jelly  and  put 
back  in  the  oven  for  two  minutes  ;  the  dish  is  more  sightly. 

Flambantes. — Lay  apples  in  a  saucepan,  after  being 
peeled  and  cored,  add  sugar  to  taste,  and  water  enough  just 
to  cover  them,  also  a  stick  of  cinnamon,  and  set  on  a  rather 
slow  fire,  and  leave  till  done.  Take  them  from  the  pan 
carefully  and  without  breaking  them ;  place  them  on  a  tin 
or  silver  dish,  forming  a  kind  of  pyramid  or  mound  ;  turn 
the  juice  over  them,  dust  with  sugar,  pour  good  rum  ah1 
over,  set  it  on  fire,  and  serve  immediately  and  warm.  As 
soon  as  on  fire  it  is  placed  on  the  table,  and  the  host  must 
baste  with  the  rum  so  as  to  keep  it  burning  till  all  the  alco- 
hol is  exhausted,  then  serve. 

The  following  cut  represents  eithei  a  dish  of  apploa 
flambantes  before  being  in  flames,  or  apples  with  rice. 


SWEET   DISHES.  379 


In  Fritters. — Peel,  core,  and  cut  apples  in  slices,  and 
llien  proceed  as  directed  for  fritters.  Serve  hot 

With  Wine. — Proceed  as  for  applQsflambantes  in  every 
particular  except  that  you  slice  the  apples,  and  instead  of 
pouring  rum  over,  you  pour  Madeira  wine,  and  do  not  set 
it  on  fire. 

Meringuces. — Peel,  quarter,  and  core  half  a  dozen  ap- 
ples ;  set  them  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water ;  stir  occasionally  till  done,  then  'mix 
with  them  two  or  three  tahlespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  wnen 
cold  put  them  on  a  tin  or  silver  dish ;  arrange  them  as  a 
mound  on  the  middle  of  the  dish.  Beat  three  whites  of 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  mix  three  ounces  of  pulverized 
sugar  with  them ;  spread  two  thirds  of  that  mixture  all 
over  and  around  the  apples,  smooth  it  with  a  knife ;  then 
put  the  other  third  in  a  paper  funnel,  and  by  squeezeing  it 
out,  decorate  the  dish  according  to  fancy.  You  may 
squeeze  some  small  heaps  of  the  mixture  here  and  there, 
over  and  around  the  dish,  or  squeeze  it  out  all  around, 
giving  it  a  rope-like  shape.  Dust  with  sugar,  and  put  in 
an  oven  at  250  degrees  for  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes. 
Serve  warm  in  the  dish  in  which  it  has  been  baked. 

Charlotte.— Peel,  quarter,  and  core  six  apples;  put 
them  in  a  pan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  water,  cinnamon, 
and  stew  till  done,  when  add  three  or  four  ounces  of  sugar, 


380  SWEET   DISHES. 

mix  gently  so  as  not  to  mash  the  apples,  let  cool.  Butter 
a  mould  well,  line  it,  bottom  and  sides,  with  strips  of  stale 
bread,  about  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  one  inch  broad, 
and  of  a  proper  length  for  the  mould.  Fill  till  about  half 
full  with  some  of  the  apples,  then  put  a  rather  thin  layer 
of  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  on  the  apples ;  finish  the  fill- 
ing up  with  apples  ;  cover  with  pieces  of  stale  bread,  bake 
in  an  oven  at  about  340  degrees  for  about  twenty  minutes, 
turn  over  on  a  dish,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve  hot, 

With  Sweetmeats. — Prepare  apples  au  beurre,  and 
when  ready  to  be  served,  fill  the  hole  with  any  kind  of 
sweetmeats  or  with  currant-jelly.  Serve  warm. 

In  Pine-Apple. — Core  the  apples  with  a  fruit-corer 
and  then  peel  them  with  the  scalloped  knife  (the  peels 
are  used  to  make  syrup  or  jelly),  place  them  tastefully  on 
a  dish,  so  that  they  will  form  a  pyramid,  filling  the  place 
where  the  core  was  with  sugar  and  a  little  cinnamon  ;  then 
pour  a  little  apple-syrup  on  the  whole,  and  bake.  When 
done,  pour  a  little  more  syrup  over,  and  serve  cold  or 
warm. 

Apple-Syrup. — Peel,  quarter,  and  core  four  or  six  ap- 
ples, of  the  pippin  variety ;  cook  them  well  in  about  a 
pint  of  water,  a  wine-glass  of  brandy,  and  a  pinch  ot 
grated  cinnamon  ;  when  well  cooked,  put  them  in  a 
coarse  towel,  and  press  the  juice  out ;  put  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  and  set  it  on  a  good  fire  ;  add  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar, 
take  the  foam  off  with  a  skimmer  a  little  before  it  boils, 
and  boil  about  five  minutes ;  take  from  the  fire,  let  cool, 
bottle  it,  corking  well.  It  may  be  kept  for  months. 
Syrup  with  pears,  pine-apple,  etc.,  is  made  in  the  same  way. 

Blanc-Mange. — Set  on  the  fire  in  a  block-tin  saucepan 
one  quart  of  milk  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon  and  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar ;  stir  occasionally  to  melt  the  sugar. 


SWEET   DISHES.  381 

Then  mix  about  six  ounces  of  corn-starch  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk  in  a  bowl.  As  soon  as  the  milk  rises,  take  it 
from  the  fire;  take  off  with  a  skimmer  the  rind  of  lemon, 
and  the  skin  that  has  formed  on  the  top  of  the  milk ; 
put  the  milk  back  on  the  fire ;  turn  the  corn-starch  into 
it,  stir  continually  and  very  fast  till  it  is  very  thick.  It 
will  take  hardly  a  minute  to  get  thick.  Turn  into  a 
mould  wetted  with  cold  water  and  put  away  to  cool. 
When  perfectly  cold,  serve  with  the  following  sauce  :  Mix 
well  in  a  tin  saucepan  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  two  yolks 
of  eggs,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  mix  again  ;  set 
on  the  fire ;  stir  continually,  give  one  boil ;  take  off;  let 
cool,  and  serve. 

Blanc-Manger. — Throw  in  boiling  water  two  ounces 
of  sweet  almonds  and  the  same  of  bitter  ones,  or  pour 
boiling  water  over  them,  and  then  skin  them  as  soon  as  the 
skin  comes  off  easily.  Pound  them  well  with  four 
ounces  of  sugar,  lay  the  whole  in  a  pan  with  about  a  pint 
of  water,  set  on  the  tire,  and  when  on  the  point  of  boil- 
ing, take  off  and  strain.  Put  in  a  tin  saucepan  about  a 
pint  of  milk,  the  strained  juice,  an  ounce  of  gelatin,  a 
little  rind  of  lemon,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  both  grated  ;  set 
the  whole  on  a  moderate  fire ;  simmer  just  enough  to 
melt  the  gelatin  and  mix  it  with  the  rest,  and  then  strain. 
Wet  a  mould  with  cold  water,  put  the  mixture  in  it, 
set  it  on  ice,  and  serve  when  cool.  It  may  be  served 
with  a  sauce  like  the  above. 

Charlotte  Russe. — Wipe  a  mould  well,  see  that  it  is 
dry,  and  then  line  the  bottom  and  sides  with  lady's-fingers, 
or  sponge  cake  cut  in  pieces  about  the  size  of  a  lady's 
finger.  Commence  by  lining  the  bottom,  placing  the 
pieces  so  as  to  form  a  star  or  rosette,  or  plain,  according 
-o  fancy.  Then  place  some  of  them  upright  all  around, 


882  SWEET  DISHES. 

rather  tight,  and  even  with  the  top  of  the  mould.  Fill 
with  cream,  well  whipped,  sweetened,  and  flavored  with 
essence ;  place  the  mould  on  ice,  and  when  ready  to  serve, 
place  a  dish  on  it,  turn  upside  down,  remove  the  mould, 
and  serve  as  it  is,  or  decorated. 

To  decorate. — Make  a  paper  funnel,  fill  it  with  cream, 
or  icing  (sugar  and  white  of  egg  worked),  then  spread  some 
all  over  the  top  according  to  fancy ;  it  is  quickly  done 
and  is  sightly.  The  mould  may  also  be  filled  with  some 
other  cream ;  as  creme  Ugere,  creme  cuite,  etc. 

Charlotte  a  la  Chantilly. — It  is  a  Charlotte  made  ex- 
actly as  the  above  one,  but  filled  with  creme  a  la  Chantilly. 

A  la  Polonaise. — Make  a  sponge  cake,  cut  it  trans- 
versely, dip  each  piece  in  cream  (any  kind)  and  then 
place  them  back  where  they  were  so  as  to  give  the  cake 
its  original  form  as  near  as  possible.  When  thus  re-formed, 
cover  it  with  cream,  dust  with  sugar,  and  decorate  with 
any  kind  of  sweetmeats.  Besides  the  sweetmeats  that  are 
placed  here  and  there  all  around,  some  currant-jelly  may 
also  be  used  to  decorate.  Place  on  ice  for  some  time,  and 
serve. 

Italian. — Peel,  quarter,  and  core  about  a  quart  of 
pears  and  set  them  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  in  a  saucepan 
with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine,  sugar,  cinnamon,  and 
lemon-rind.  While  they  are  cooking,  line  a  mould  as  foi 
Charlotte  JRusse,  remove  the  lemon-rind,  and  fill  the  mould 
with  the  pears;  place  it  on  ice  when  cool,  turn  over  on  a 
dish,  remove  the  mould,  decorate  with  icing,  or  cover  en- 
tirely with  apple-jelly,  and  serve.  It  is  also  made  with 
genoise  cake  instead  of  sponge  cake. 

Francaise. — This  is  prepared  and  served  like  a  Char 
lotte  Russe,  with  the  exception  that  it  is  filled  with  llanc 
manger  mfromage  a  la  creme  instead  of  cream. 


SWEET  DISHES.  383 

Of  Fruit. — This  is  made  of  cherries  or  any  kind  of 
berries ;  cherries  must  be  stoned  carefully.  Dip  the  fruit 
in  wine-jelly  as  soon  as  the  latter  is  cool,  but  not  firm,  and 
line  a  mould  with  it.  By  having  the  mould  on  ice  it  will 
be  more  easily  done.  Fill  the  mould  with  cream,  as  for 
Charlotte  Russe,  place  on  ice,  and  serve  as  soon  as  con- 
gealed. When  the  mould  is  taken  from  the  ice,  dip  it 
in  warm  water  a  few  seconds,  place  a  dish  over  it,  turn 
upside  down,  remove  it,  and  serve  immediately.  A  Char- 
lotte of  fruit  is  sightly  enough  without  decorations ;  it  re- 
quires some  time  to  make  it,  but  it  is  worth  the  trouble, 
being  a  handsome  as  well  as  a  good  dish. 

Another. — Line  a  mould  as  for  the  above.  Put  one 
ounce  of  gelatin  in  a  bowl  with  about  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  water  and  leave  it  so  for  about  half  an  hour.  Mix  well 
together  in  a  saucepan  four  yolks  of  eggs  and  three 
ounces  of  pulverized  sugar,  add  about  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk,  and  mix  again ;  set  on  the  fire  and  stir  for  about 
three  minutes,  add  the  gelatin,  stir  again,  give  one  boil, 
and  put  away  to  cool  a  little.  Beat  four  whites  of  eggs 
to  a  stiff  froth,  turn  the  above  mixture  into  them,  mix 
gently  again ;  fill  the  mould  with  the  whole,  place  on  ice 
till  perfectly  cold.  When  cold,  turn  upside  down  on  a 
dish,  remove  the  mould,  decorate  as  the  preceding  one, 
and  serve  cold. 

Cheese  with  Cream — (Fromage  a  la  Creme). — This  is 
made  in  different  ways ;  sometimes  with  soft  curds  only, 
or  with  curds  and  cream,  or  with  cream  only  when  very 
thick.  Gelatin  dissolved  in  a  little  water  may  also  be 
added.  The  curds  or  cream,  or  both,  are  beaten  with  an 
egg-beater,  sweetened  to  taste  with  sugar,  and  flavored 
with  essence.  To  make  it  more  sightly,  when  beaten  and 
flavored,  it  is  moulded,  placed  on  ice  to  make  it  firm.  an»l 


384:  SWEET   DISHES. 

then  turned  over  a  dish,  the  mould  removed,  and  then 
served.  Any  kind  of  essence  may  be  used  to  flavor  it, 
such  as  vanilla,  fleur  (Toranger,  rose-water,  violet,  etc. ;  it 
may  also  be  made  with  coffee,  tea,  chocolate,  orange, 
lemon,  etc.  Put  a  few  drops  of  very  strong  coffee,  or  tea, 
or  chocolate  at  the  same  time  with  the  sugar  and  essence. 

With  orange  or  lemon,  rub  them  on  a  piece  of  sugar, 
which  you  pound  and  use  to  sweeten  the  cheese.  Three 
or  more  different  ones  may  be  made  with  a  quart  of  curds ; 
for  instance,  flavor  one  third  of  it  with  essence,  another 
third  with  coffee  or  chocolate,  and  the  other  with  orange. 
The  colors  will  be  different  also.  It  is  an  excellent 
and  refreshing  entremets  in  summer-time.  Cheese  may 
also  be  flavored  with  pine-apple  cut  in  very  small  dice  and 
mixed  with  it  instead  of  essence. 

Compotes,  or  Jams. — How  to  make  syrup  for  Compotes. 
—  Common  Syrup. — Put  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  in  a  crock- 
ery stewpan,  with  a  pint  of  water,  a  wine-glass  of  brandy, 
and  a  pinch  of  well-grated  cinnamon  ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire, 
boil  gently  for  ten  minutes,  skimming  off  the  foam  ;  then 
take  from  the  fire  and  let  cool ;  bottle  it ;  cork  it  well  and 
keep  it  to  use  when  wanted.  It  may  be  kept  for  months 
in  a  cool  and  dry  place. 

Stewed  fruit  of  any  kind  is  called  either  compote 
or  jam.  They  are  first  peeled  and  cored  and  then  cooked 
with  sugar,  water,  and  sometimes  cinnamon,  or  cloves, 
both  in  powder  and  according  to  taste ;  also  lemon-juice 
or  rind  to  taste.  Cinnamon  agrees  well  with  any  kind  of 
apples,  but  is  not  liked  by  every  one  in  every  kind  of 
fruit.  The  fruits  may  be  cooked  and  served  whole,  in 
halves,  or  quarters,  or  mashed,  according  to  fancy  and 
taste.  The  proportions  of  water  and  sugar  are  also  ac- 
cording to  taste,  or  according  to  the  nature  or  state  of 


SWEET   DISHES.  385 

the  fruit.  Sour  apples  require  more  sugar  than  sweet 
ones,  unripe  berries  require  more  also  than  ripe  ones.  The 
preparation  is  very  simple ;  not  being  prepared  to  keep, 
they  are  served  as  soon  as  cold.  They  may  be  served 
warm,  but  they  are  certainly  not  as  good.  When  there 
is  not  syrup  (juice)  enough,  pour  some  of  the  above  over 
the  fruit,  or  some  apple-syrup.  The  peels  and  cores  of 
the  apples  may  be  used  to  make  syrup,  together  with 
those  of  pears. 

While  peeling,  coring,  or  cutting  fruit,  drop  each  in 
cold  water,  else  it  changes  color  and  is  unsightly. 

When  cold,  the  compote  may  be  put  in  a  mould ;  turn 
over  a  dish,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve.  Several  kinds 
may  be  served  on  the  same  dish  as  well  as  one ;  being  of 
different  colors,  the  dish  is  more  sightly,  and  quite  as 
good.  Loaf-sugar  is  the  best. 

Instead  of  cooking  them  with  water,  etc.,  as  directed 
above,  put  some  syrup  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils, 
drop  the  prepared  fruit  in  it,  and  boil  slowly  till  done. 

Of  Apples. — Quarter,  peel,  core,  and  put  apples  in  a 
stewpan  with  a  gill  of  water  for  two  quarts,  sugar  and 
cinnamon  to  taste ;  wher  done,  dish  them,  pour  the  juice 
in  the  stewpan  all  over,  and  serve  cold.  If  there  is  not 
juice  enough,  add  some  apple-syrup. 

Of  Apricots  or  Peaches. — Take  two  quarts  of  apricots 
or  peaches  and  cut  them  in  two,  remove  the  stones.  Throw 
them  in  boiling  water  for  two  minutes  and  take  off;  drop 
in  cold  water  and  take  out  immediately,  then  skin  them. 
Put  about  half  a  pint  of  water  in  a  crockery  pan  or  in  a 
well-lined  one,  and  at  the  first  boil  put  the  peaches  in, 
with  sugar  to  taste  ;  boil  gently  till  done,  turn  the  whole 
over  a  dish,  and  serve  cold.  If  there  is  not  juice  or  syrup 
enough,  add  a  little  common  syrup. 
17 


386  SWEET   DISHES 

Of  Blackberries,  Currants,  Raspberries,  Strawberries, 
and  other  like  Berries. — Prepare  syrup  of  sugar,  and  when 
at  the  second,  third,  or  fourth  state,  throw  the  berries  in ; 
boil  from  one  to  five  minutes,  according  to  the  kind,  take 
from  the  fire,  and  serve  when  cold. 

Of  Cherries. — Cut  off  the  stalks  of  the  cherries  about 
half  their  length,  wash  well  and  drain  them.  Put  them 
in  a  stewpan  in  which  there  is  just  enough  syrup  at  the 
first  degree  to  cover  them ;  boil  slowly  till  cooked,  and 
serve. 

Of  Oranges. — Peel  four  oranges,  and  divide  each  car- 
pel without  breaking  it,  and  then  throw  them  in  syrup 
of  sugar  at  the  fourth  or  fifth  degree,  and  boil  slowly  three 
or  four  minutes ;  take  from  the  fire,  let  cool,  and  serve. 

Of  Pears.— —Peel  the  pears,  cut  the  stem  half  its 
length,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  little  sugar,  a  few 
drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  pinch  of  cinnamon,  and  a  little 
water.  Set  on  a  moderate  fire,  and  at  the  first  boiling  add 
two  gills  of  claret  wine.  Simmer  till  cooked,  then  put 
the  pears  only  on  a  dish ;  set  the  stewpan  back  on  the  fire, 
add  to  the  juice  in  it  about  the  same  quantity  of  syrup 
of  pears  or  of  syrup  of  sugar  at  the  third  degree,  boil 
fifteen  minutes  longer,  pour  the  whole  on  the  pears,  and 
serve  warm  or  cold. 

Of  Lemons. — Peel  the  lem  ons,  cut  them  in  pieces,  re- 
move the  seeds,  and  proceed  as  for  that  of  oranges,  boil- 
ing a  little  longer. 

Of  Pine-Apple. — Peel  and  cut  in  slices,  put  them  in  a 
crockery  pan,  with  a  little  water  and  sugar,  set  on  a  good 
fire,  and  finish  and  serve  like  apricots. 

Of  Plums. — Throw  the  plums  in  boiling  water,  and 
take  them  out  when  half  cooked;  put  them  in  a  crockery 
Btewpan,  with  a  little  water  and  a  little  sugar ;  simmer 


SWEET  DISHES.  387 

till  cooked,  place  them  on  a  dish,  pour  some  common 
syrup  on,  and  serve  when  cold. 

Of  Quinces. — Quarter,  peel,  and  core  the  quinces; 
throw  them  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes ;  take  out 
and  drab  them ;  put  them  in  a  crockery  stewpan,  with 
four  ounces  of  sugar  for  every  pound  of  quinces,  a  few 
drops  of  lemon-juice,  a  little  water,  and  a  pinch  of  grated 
cinnamon ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  simmer  till  cooked,  place 
them  on  a  dish,  pour  some  common  syrup  on  them,  and 
serve  cold. 

Of  Chestnuts. — Roast  about  one  quart  of  chestnuts, 
remove  the  skin  and  pith,  lay  them  in  a  pan  with  half  a 
gill  of  water  and  four  ounces  of  sugar ;  set  on  a  slow  fire, 
toss  now  and  then  till  the  sugar  and  water  are  absorbed  or 
evaporated,  turn  over  a  dish,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve 
warm  or  cold.  A  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  may  be  added 
just  before  dusting  with  sugar. 

Cold  Compote. — Wash  strawberries  and  raspberries  in 
cold  water,  drain  dry,  and  place  them  on  a  dish.  Pour 
boiling  common  syrup  or  boiling  currant-jelly  all  over ; 
let  cool,  and  serve. 

Of  Cranberries. — Put  one  pint  of  water  in  a  tin  sauce- 
pan, with  six  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon, 
and  set  it  on  the  fire ;  boil  down  until,  by  dipping  a  spoon 
in  it,  it  adheres  to  it.  Then  throw  in  it  about  one  pint 
of  cranberries;  boil  about  twelve  minutes,  stirring  now 
and  then,  take  off,  let  cool,  and  serve. 

Another. — After  having  boiled  ten  minutes  in  the  same 
way  as  above,  and  with  the  same  proportions  of  sugar, 
cranberries,  etc.,  take  from  the  fire,  mash  through  a  fine 
colander  or  sieve,  put  back  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  five 
minutes,  let  cool,  and  serve. 

Creams  or  Cremes  au  Citron  (with  Lemon). — Put  one 


388  SWEET   DISHES. 

pint  of  milk  in  a  tin  saucepan  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon ; 
set  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  rises  place  an  iron  spoon 
in  it  and  boil  gently  five  minutes;  take  from  the  fire. 
Mix  well  in  a  bowl  four  ounces  of  sugar  with  four  yolks 
of  eggs,  then  turn  the  milk  into  the  bowl,  little  by  little, 
stirring  and  mixing  at  the  same  time.  Strain  the  mixture 
and  put  it  in  small  cups  ;  put  the  cups  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  boil  gently  for  about  ten  minutes,  and  put  in  the 
oven  as  it  is,  that  is,  leaving  the  cups  in  the  water.  The 
cups  must  not  be  more  than  half  covered  with  water,  else 
the  water  will  fly  into  it.  It  takes  from  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes  to  finish  the  cooking  in  the  oven,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  cups.  Take  them  from  the  oven  when  the 
creme  is  rather  firm,  except  a  little  spot  in  the  middle,  and 
which  you  ascertain  by  moving  the  cups. 

Any  one  with  an  ordinary  amount  of  intelligence  can 
make  creams  as  well  as  the  best  cooks,  after  having  tried 
only  two  or  three  times.  When  you  know  how  to  make 
one,  you  can  make  fifty,  just  by  using  different  flavorings. 

Au  Cafe  (with  Coffee). — The  stronger  the  coffee  the 
better  the  cream.  The  most  economical  way  of  making 
strong  coffee  is :  when  you  intend  to  have  cream  with 
coffee  for  dinner,  put  the  first  drops  that  fall,  when  you 
make  the  coffee  for  breakfast,  into  a  glass ;  put  it  imme- 
diately in  cold  water,  and  as  soon  as  cool  cover  it  with 
paper,  which  you  tie  around  it  with  twine,  and  use  when 
you  make  the  cream. 

Always  use  good  fresh  milk  and  fresh  eggs.  As  soon 
as  the  whites  of  the  eggs  are  separated  from  the  yolks,  put 
them,  together  with  the  shells,  on  ice,  and  use  the  next 
day  to  clarify  your  jellies,  or  to  make  icing,  etc.  A  little 
care  is  a  great  saving  in  the  kitchen. 

Put  one  quart  of  milk  in  a  milk-pan  on  the  fire  and 


SWEET  DISHES.  389 

take  off  as  soon  as  it  rises.  While  the  milk  is  on  the  fire, 
mix  well  together  in  a  bowl  eight  yolks  of  eggs  with  half 
a  pound  of  sugar,  and  coffee  to  flavor ;  then  turn  the  milk 
into  the  mixture,  little  by  little,  stirring  the  while ;  when 
the  whole  is  thoroughly  mixed,  strain  it  Put  the  mixture 
in  cream-cups,  place  the  cups  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water — 
enough  water  to  half  cover  them ;  boil  slowly  for  about 
tea  minutes,  put  the  pan  and  cups  in  a  moderately-heated 
oven,  and  take  off  when  done.  It  takes  from  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes  to  finish  the  cooking,  according  to  the  size  of  tho 
cups.  It  is  done  when  the  whole  is  solidified  except  a 
little  spot  in  the  centre,  which,  by  moving  the  cups,  will 
shake  somewhat.  Serve  cold. 

With  Burnt  Sugar. — Put  two  ounces  of  sugar  in  a 
small  tin  pan,  with  a  tablespoonnil  of  water,  set  on  the 
fire,  and  boil  till  burnt  and  of  a  light-brown  color ;  take 
off,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  milk,  four 
ounces  of  white  sugar,  a  few  drops  of  rose  or  orange- 
flower  water ;  boil  ten  minutes,  stirring  occasionally ;  take 
from  the  fire,  beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  one  entire, 
put  in  the  pan  and  mix  the  whole  well,  then  strain,  after 
which  you  put  the  mixture  in  small  cream-pots  for  that 
purpose ;  place  them  in  a  hot  but  not  boiling  bain-marie, 
and  as  soon  as  it  thickens  take  them  out,  dust  them  with 
fine  white  sugar,  let  cx>l;  place  them  on  ice  for  about  fif- 
teen minutes,  and  then  it  is  ready  to  be  served. 

With  Chocolate. — Put  in  a  stewpan  and  on  a  moderate 
fire  six  ounces  of  chocolate,  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water, 
three  ounces  of  white  sugar,  stir  now  and  then  with  a 
wooden  spoon  till  melted ;  then  pour  in  it,  little  by  little, 
a  quart  of  good  fresh  milk ;  boil  ten  minutes,  take  from 
the  fire,  and  mix  in  it  one  egg  well  beaten  with  the  yolks 
of  five  others ;  strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  in  cream- 


390  SWEET  DISHES. 

pots  or  cups,  place  them  in  a  hot  but  not  boiling  'bain-marie^ 
take  off  as  soon  as  it  thickens,  dust  with  fine  white  sugar, 
let  cool,  place  on  ice  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  and  use. 

With  Orange. — Use  orange-rind,  and  proceed  as  for 
lemon-cream  in  every  other  particular. 

With  Tea. — Proceed  with  strong  tea  as  for  cream  au 
cafe  in  every  other  particular. 

With  Essence. — Make  cream  au  cafe,  with  the  excep- 
tion that,  instead  of  using  coffee  to  flavor,  you  use  a  few 
drops  of  vanilla,  rose-water,  orange-flower  water,  violet, 
cinnamon,  etc. — any  kind  of  essence,  to  taste. 

With  Cinnamon. — Beat  well  together  in  a  bowl  about 
an  ounce  of  potato-starch,  a  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  four 
eggs,  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and  milk  enough  to  make  a 
rather  liquid  batter.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a  mould,  which 
put  into  a  pan  of  boiling  water  for  fifteen  minutes,  then 
place  in  the  oven  till  cooked.  Serve  cold. 

Cuite. — Put  two  ounces  of  sugar  in  a  tin  pan  with  two 
eggs,  and  mix  well ;  then  add  an  ounce  of  flour,  little  by 
little,  mixing  the  while ;  then,  in  the  same  way,  add  also 
about  a  pint  of  boiled  milk ;  set  on  the  fire,  stir  continually 
till  it  turns  rather  thick ;  take  off,  flavor  with  essence  to 
taste,  let  cool,  and  serve  or  use  for  filling. 

Frangipane. — Set  one  pint  of  milk  on  the  fire.  Mix 
well  together  in  another  pan  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
two  of  flour,  three  eggs,  three  macaroons  crumbled,  and 
as  soon  as  the  milk  rises,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  little  by 
little,  stirring  and  mixing  the  while ;  keep  stirring  about 
three  minutes ;  take  off,  add  a  few  drops  of  essence  to 
flavor;  turn  into  a  bowl,  let  cool,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 
It  may  be  made  without  the  macaroons. 

With  Almonds. — Make  as  the  above,  with  the  excep- 
tion that  you  use  sweet  almonds,  chopped  fine,  instead  of 
macaroons. 


SWEET  DISHES.  391 

With  Hazel-nuts. — Proceed  as  above,  using  hazel -nuta 
instead  of  almonds. 

Legere. — Mix  well  together  in  a  tin  saucepan  five  yolks 
of  eggs  and  five  ounces  of  sugar;  add  four  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk,  and  mix  again.  Set  the  pan  on  the  fire,  and  stir 
continually  till  it  turns  rather  thick ;  take  off,  and  add  a 
few  drops  of  essence ;  turn  into  a  plate  or  dish  and  let 
cool.  When  cold,  beat  five  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth ; 
have  somebody  to  pour  in  the  whites,  and,  while  you 
are  still  beating,  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  cold 
mixture,  and  stop  beating.  Then  turn  the  rest  of  the  mix- 
ture into  the  whites,  and  mix  the  whole  together  gently ; 
do  not  stir  too  much,  but  move  round  and  round  with 
a  wooden  spoon,  and  it  is  done.  If  it  is  stirred  too  much, 
it  may  become  too  liquid.  It  makes  an  excellent  and 
light  cream. 

Patissiere. — Beat  four  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  then  mix  about  one  ounce  of  pulverized  sugar  with 
them.  Put  four  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  bowl  with  half  a  gill 
of  milk,  and  beat  well  till  thoroughly  mixed.  Put  in  a 
saucepan  about  two  ounces  of  pulverized  sugar,  with  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  potato-starch  (fecula),  and  two-thirds  of  a  gill 
of  milk,  and  mix  the  whole  well ;  then  add  the  eggs  and 
milk,  and  beat  the  whole  well  with  an  egg-beater.  Set 
the  pan  on  a  rather  slow  fire,  stir  continually  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  it  turns  rather  thick,  and  then  turn  the  four 
whites  and  sugar  into  the  pan  also,  little  by  little,  stirring 
the  while,  and  take  off  when  thoroughly  mixed.  As  soon 
as  off  the  fire,  add  essence  to  flavor,  and  about  one-quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  gelatine,  dissolved  in  tepid  water.  Serve, 
or  use  to  fill  when  cold. 

JRcnversee. — Make  cream  with  tea,  coffee,  or  chocolate, 
and  instead  of  turning  the  mixture  into  create  pots,  turn 


392  SWEET  DISHES. 

it  into  a  mould  lined  with  burnt  sugar  ;  place  the  mould 
in  boiling  water  for  about  fifteen  minutes,  place  it  in  the 
oven  to  finish  the  cooking,  turn  over  a  dish,  remove  the 
mould,  and  serve  cold.  To  line  the  mould,  put  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  pulverized  sugar  in  it;  set  it  on 
a  slow  fire,  and  when  the  sugar  is  melted  and  turning 
brown,  move  the  mould  round  and  round  to  spread  the 
sugar  all  over ;  then  put  the  cream  in  it. 

Sweet  Cream. — We  mean  here  the  oily  substance  which 
forms  a  scum  on  milk ;  also  called  whipped  cream.  It  is 
used  to  make  Charlotte  Kusse,  to  fill  meringues,  choux,  or 
cream-cakes,  etc. 

Put  a  pint  of  good  thick  cream  in  a  bowl,  and  if  the 
weather  is  warm,  place  the  bowl  on  ice  for  half  an  hour, 
then  beat  the  cream  with  an  egg-beater  till  stiff  and  thick. 
If  the  cream  does  not  become  stiff  after  having  beaten  it 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes  at  the  longest,  it  is  not  good,  or 
it  is  too  warm.  Good  cream  may  rise  and  become  stiff  in 
five  minutes.  "When  beaten,  add  to  it  about  four  ounces 
of  pulverized  sugar,  which  you  mix  gently  with  it,  not 
stirring  too  much ;  add  also  a  few  drops  of  essence  to 
flavor.  If  wanted  very  stiff,  add  also,  after  the  sugar,  half 
an  ounce  of  gelatin,  melted  in  a  little  tepid  water.  When 
beaten  and  mixed,  if  not  used  immediately,  it  must  be  put 
on  ice. 

Chantilly. — It  is  the  above  cream  flavored  with  fleur 
tforange  (orange-flower  water),  or  with  essence  of  violet. 

Ice  Cream. — Made  with  cream  it  is  richer  than  with 
milk.  With  eggs  it  is  better  and  richer  than  without,  and 
those  that  advocate  it  without  eggs,  either  have  no  palate, 
or  do  not  know  how  to  use  them  in  making  it. 

The  addition  of  starch,  fecula,  arrow-root,  flour,  meal, 
etc.,  spoils  it.  The  proportions  are,  to  a  quart  of  milk  01 


SWEET  DISHES.  393 

cream:  from  four  to  six  eggs;  from  eight  to  fourteen 
ounces  of  pulverized  sugar;  essence,  or  chocolate,  or  fruit- 
jelly  to  flavor  and  color.  Our  receipt  is  for  six  eggs  and 
fourteen  ounces  of  sugar  to  a  quart  of  milk. 

Set  the  milk  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  comes  to  a  boil, 
mix  well  half  the  sugar  and  the  essence  with  six  yolks 
and  three  whites  of  eggs  ;  beat  the  three  other  whites  sep- 
arately to  a  stiff  froth.  As  soon  as  the  milk  rises,  take  it 
from  the  fire,  pui,  half  the  sugar  in  it  and  stir  to  melt  it, 
then  turn  the  mixture  into  it  also,  little  by  little,  beating 
the  while  with  an  egg-beater ;  set  on  the  fire,  and  take  off 
at  the  first  boiling.  While  on  the  fire  it  must  be  beaten 
gently,  as,  if  it  is  allowed  to  boil,  the  eggs  may  curdle. 
As  soon  as  off  the  fire,  mix  the  three  whites  with  the  rest> 
beating  with  an  egg-beater,  just  enough  to  mix  the  whole 
well ;  put  in  cold,  salt  water  to  cool,  and  then  freeze. 

The  smaller  the  ice  is  broken  and  mixed  with  plenty 
of  rock-salt,  the  quicker  it  freezes. 

Custard. — Put  four  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  bowl,  then 

J  OO 

sprinkle  flour  on  them,  little  by  little,  stirring  and  mix- 
ing well  the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  when  the 
mixture  is  rather  thick,  stop  sprinkling  flour,  but  sprinkle 
milk,  and  mix  again  in  the  same  way  till  the  mixture  is 
liquid;  add  sugar  and  essence  to  taste,  beat  the  four 
whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  mix  them  gently  with  the  rest ; 
butter  a  mould  well,  fill  it  about  two-thirds  full  with  the 
mixture,  and  set  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven.  Serve  as 
soon  as  out  of  the  oven.  If  intended  to  be  served  cold, 
omit  the  whites  of  eggs. 

Fritters. — These  are  made  with  every  kind  of  fruit,  when 
ripe,  peeled  and  stoned,  or  cored  when  necessary,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  kind.     The  fruit  is  used  whole,  such  as  strawber- 
ries and  the  like ;  or  in  slices,  such  as  apples,  pears,  etc. ; 
17* 


394  SWEET  DISHES. 

or  in  halves,  like  peaches,  plums,  etc.  It  may  be  used  a? 
soon  as  prepared ;  or  may  be  soaked  a  few  hours  iu  a  mix- 
ture of  sugar,  brandy,  01  rum,  and  lemon-rind. 

Have  batter  for  fritters  made  in  advance,  and  while 
you  are  preparing  the  fruit  heat  the  fat  (see  FRYING),  dip 
each  fruit  or  each  slice  in  batter,  drop  it  in  the  fat,  stir 
and  turn  over,  and  when  done,  turn  into  a  colander,  dust 
well  with  fine  white  or  pulverized  sugar,  and  serve  as 
warm  (or  rather  as  hot)  as  possible.  Even  the  best  fritters 
served  cold  make  a  very  poor  dish.  Besides  fruit,  the 
blossoms  of  the  acacia  and  those  of  the  violet  make  the 
most  delicate  fritters. 

With  Bread  or  Pain  perdu. — Set  one  pint  of  milk  on 
the  fire  with  two  ounces  of  sugar,  and  the  rind  of  half  a 
lemon,  stir  now  and  then,  and  when  it  rises  add  a  few 
drops  of  essence  to  flavor,  then  take  off  and  soak  in  it 
slices  of  bread,  cut  with  a  paste-cutter  and  about  half  an 
inck  thick.  When  well  soaked,  drain  ;  dip  them  in  beaten 
egg,  roll  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  and  serve  as  fritters. 

Glazed  Fruit —  Oranges  glazed. — Oranges  or  any 
other  fruit  glazed,  when  mounted  in  a  pyramid,  is  called 
croque  en  bouche. 

Peel  the  oranges ;  then  divide  the  carpels  and  free  them 
from  the  pith,  and  put  them  away  in  a  warm  place  for  a 
few  hours ;  they  may  be  left  over  night.  Cut  very  fine 
wire  in  pieces  about  eight  inches  long,  bend  each  piece  at 
both  ends,  forming  a  hook ;  then  run  one  end  or  hook 
through  the  carpel  of  orange,  and  hang  it  on  a  stick  placed 
on  something  horizontally.  In  order  not  to  spill  any  of  the 
juice,  hook  the  orange  near  the  edge  of  that  part  that  was 
the  centre  of  the  orange  before  being  divided,  and  as  the  other 
end  of  the  wire  forms  a  hook  also,  it  is  easy  to  hang  it. 

Prepare  syrup  of  sugar,  and  when  at  the  sixth  degree 


SWEET   DISHES.  395 

take  it  from  the  fire,  dip  each  carpel  of  orange  into  it  and 
hang  it  again,  and  so  on  for  the  whole.  As  soon  as  dry 
enough  to  handle  them,  which  takes  hardly  half  a  minute, 
pull  oft'  the  wire  and  serve  when  perfectly  cold. 

To  mount  them  in  pyramid  is  not  difficult,  hut  requires 
time.  When  they  are  cold,  prepare  again  the  same  syrup 
of  sugar  as  above,  and  take  it  from  the  fire.  While  the 
sugar  is  on  the  fire  take  a  tin  mould,  a  plain  one,  larger 
at  the  top  than  at  the  bottom,  and  slightly  grease  it  with 
sweet-oil.  A  convenient  size  for  a  family  is,  seven  inches 
high,  six  inches  broad  at  the  top,  and  only  four  inches  at 
the  bottom. 

Place  one  carpel  of  orange,  resting  on  the  bottom  of 
the  mould,  along  the  side  and  the  edge  upward;  as  soon 
as  the  sugar  is  out  of  the  fire,  dip  one  of  the  two  ends  of 
another  carpel  into  it,  the  edge  only,  and  immediately 
place  it  as  the  first  one,  and  touching  it.  The  syrup  being 
hot  and  liquid,  the  two  pieces  will  adhere ;  do  the  same 
with  others  till  you  have  one  row  around  the  bottom. 
Commence  a  second  row  as  you  did  the  first,  but  this 
time  the  first  carpel  you  place  must  be  dipped  in  sugar, 
in  order  to  adhere  to  the  first  row,  and  all  the  others  must 
also  be  dipped  so  as  to  adhere  not  only  to  the  first  piece 
placed,  but  also  to  the  first  row  ;  and  so  on  for  each  row 
till  the  mould  is  full,  or  till  you  have  as  much  as  you 
wish.  As  soon  as  cold,  place  a  dish  on  the  mould,  turn  up- 
side down,  and  remove  the  mould.  You  have  then  a 
sightly  dish,  but  not  better  than  when  served  only  glazed. 

Another  way  to  make  it. — Grease  with  oil  your  marble 
for  pastry,  place  the  same  mould  as  above  over  it  but  up- 
side down,  that  is,  the  broader  end  down ;  grease  the  out- 
side also  with  oil.  Then  place  the  rows  cf  carpels  of 
oranges  all  around  outside  of  it,  and  in  the  same  way  as 


396  SWEET  DISHES. 

described  above.  The  croque  en  bouche  is  more  easily 
made  this  last  way,  but  it  is  more  difficult  to  remove  the 
mould.  Mould  arid  fruit  must  be  turned  upside  dowr 
carefully,  after  which  the  mould  is  pulled  off. 

If  the  syrup  gets  cold,  it  hardens,  aud  cannot  be  used ; 
in  that  state,  add  a  little  water  and  put  it  back  on  the 
fire,  but  it  is  difficult  to  re  warm  it;  generally  it  colors  and 
is  unfit.  When  that  happens,  make  burnt  sugar  with 
it,  or  a  nougat.  It  is  better  and  safer  to  make  a  little  of 
it,  just  what  can  be  used  before  it  gets  cold,  and  if  not 
enough,  make  some  a  second  and  even  a  third  time. 
While  the  sugar  is  hot,  and  while  you  are  dipping  the 
fruit  in  it,  be  careful  not  to  touch  it,  as  it  burns  badly. 
In  glaring  the  fruit  first,  some  syrup  falls  in  taking  it  from 
the  pan  to  the  stick;  place  your  marble  board,  greased 
with  oil,  under,  so  that  you  can  pick  it  without  any  trouble 
and  use  it. 

Chestnuts,  glazed. — Roast  the  chestnuts,  skin  them 
well,  then  hook,  dip,  and  hook  again  on  the  stick  as  di- 
rected for  pieces  of  oranges.  A  pyramid  also  may  be 
made,  and  a  sightly  one  it  makes. 

Cherries. — They  must  be  picked  with  their  stems,  and 
by  which  you  tie  two  together  with  a  piece  of  twine.  See 
that  they  are  clean  and  dry,  and  have  two  sticks  instead 
of  one,  placed  parallel,  about  two  inches  apart,  in  order 
to  prevent  the  two  cherries  from  touching,  when  hung,  as 
they  would  immediately  adhere.  Proceed  for  the  rest  as 
described  for  oranges. 

Pears. — Small,  ripe  pears  are  excellent  glazed;  peel 
them,  but  leave  the  stem  on,  and  then  proceed  as  with 
sherries  in  every  particular. 

Strawberries  or  any  other  Berries. — The  berries  must 
be  picked  with  the  stem.  Wash  them  in  cold  water,  drain, 


SWEET  DISHES.  397 

flry,  or  wipe  carefully,  and  then  proceed  as  for  cherries  in 
every  particular.  A  more  delicate  dish  than  strawberries 
or  raspberries  glazed  cannot  be  made. 

Grapes. — When  clean,  proceed  as  described  for  cherries. 

Plums. — Take  plums,  well  ripened  and  with  the  stems 
on,  and  proceed  as  with  cherries. 

Prunes. — Soak  the  prunes  in  tepid  water,  and  when 
dry,  hook  them  like  carpels  of  orange,  and  finish  in  the 
game  manner. 

Currants. — When  clean  and  dry,  tie  two  clusters  to- 
gether, and  proceed  as  for  cherries. 

Pine-Apple. — Cut  pine-apple  in  dice,  and  proceed  as 
described  for  carpels  of  orange. 

Iced  Fruit. — As  a  general  rule,  the  more  watery  the 
fruit  the  more  reduced  the  syrup  of  sugar  must  be.  If  it 
is  not  reduced  enough,  small  pieces  of  ice,  formed  by 
the  water  of  the  fruit,  will  be  found  while  eating  it. 
The  fruit  must  be  ripe.  It  is  done  also  with  preserved 
fruit.  It  is  impossible  to  tell  exactly  the  degree  or  state 
of  the  fruit  and  syrup  without  a  hydrometer. 

The  following  preparation  may  be  added  to  the  fruit, 
or  to  punch,  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  freeze ;  it  is  not  indis- 
pensable, but  gives  it  more  body :  Put  one  pound  of  loaf- 
sugar  in  a  copper  pan  with  two  gills  of  cold  water,  set  on 
the  fire,  stir  now  and  then  till  it  comes  to  a  boil,  then  boil 
till  it  is  at  the  fifth  state  or  43°,  and  take  off.  Beat  four 
whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  flavor  with  essence  of  vanilla, 
and  turn  the  sugar  into  the  eggs,  little  by  little,  but  do 
not  stop  beating  until  the  whole  is  in.  Then  move  the 
mixture  gently  round  with  a  spoon  for  about  a  minute, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

With  Peaches,  Apricots,  or  Plums. — The  following 
proportions  are  for  one  pint  of  juice.  Peel  and  stone  the 


398  SWEET  DISHES. 

fruit  carefully,  then  mash  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  bowl. 
Make  one  pint  of  syrup  of  sugar  at  32°,  and  when  cold  turn 
it  into  the  bowl  and  mix  it  with  the  pint  of  juice,  add  the 
juice  of  a  rather  large  orange  and  a  little  of  the  rind  grated, 
mix  again,  freeze  as  directed  for  ice-cream,  and  serve. 

With  Currants,  Lemons,  Oranges,  Pears,  Pine- Apples, 
Strawberries,  and  other  berries. — Proceed  as  for  peaches 
in  every  particular,  except  that  you  press  the  juice  of  the 
currants  and  berries  through  a  towel  instead  of  mashing 
them  through  a  sieve,  and  that  you  use  the  syrup  at  44°  for 
them  also ;  the  others  are  peeled  and  cored  or  seeded. 

With  Melons. — Proceed  as  for  peaches,  except  that 
you  add  to  the  mixture  a  little  Jcirschwasser. 

With  Preserved  Fruit. — Use  the  syrup  at  30°,  and  pro- 
ceed as  for  peaches  in  every  other  particular. 

Iced  Coffee. — Make  strong  coffee,  and  when  cold  mix 
it  with  the  same  volume  of  thick  cream,  sweeten  to  taste, 
freeze,  and  serve. 

Iced  Chocolate. — Break  in  pieces  about  four  ounces  of 
chocolate,  and  set  it  on  a  slow  fire  in  a  tin  pan,  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  water ;  when  melted  take  it  from  the  fire, 
add  a  gill  of  warm  water,  and  work  it  with  a  spoon  for  five 
minutes ;  then  mix  it  with  the  same  volume  of  syrup  of 
si  3far  at  30°,  freeze  and  serve.  The  syrup  is  used  when 
col  i. 

Iced  Tea  is  made  as  iced  coffee. 

Sweet  Jellies — Wine  Jelly. — Soak  two  ounces  of  gela- 
tin in  a  gill  of  cold  water  for  about  half  an  hour.  Put  in 
a  block-tin  saucepan  three  eggs  and  shells,  three  ounces 
of  sugar,  one  quart  of  cold  water ;  beat  a  little  with  an 
egg-beater  tp  break  the  eggs,  and  mix  the  whole  together; 
add  also  a  few  drops  of  burnt  sugar,  same  of  essence,  rum, 
according  to  taste,  from  half  a  gill  to  half  a  pint,  then  the 


SWEET   DISHES.  399 

gelatin  and  water  in  which  it  is  ;  set  on  a  gcod  fire,  stir- 
ring slowly  with  an  egg-beater,  and  stopping  once  in  a 
while  to  see  if  it  comes  to  a  boil,  when,  stop  stirring,  keep 
boiling  very  slowly  for  two  or  three  minutes,  and  turn  into 
the  jelly-bag,  which  you  do  as  soon  as  clear;  the  process 
requires  from  two  to  three  minutes.  While  it  is  boiling 
take  a  few  drops  with  a  spoon,  and  you  will  easily  see  when 
it  is  clear.  Pass  it  through  the  bag  three  or  four  times, 
turn  into  a  mould,  put  on  ice,  and  when  firm,  put  a  dish 
on  it,  turn  upside  down,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve. 

Jelly  Macedoine. — Make  the  same  jelly  as  above,  and 
pass  it  through  the  bag  also ;  put  some  in  a  mould,  say  a 
thickness  of  half  an  inch,  have  the  mould  on  ice ;  then,  as 
soon  as  it  is  firm,  place  some  fruit  on  that  layer  and  ac- 
cording to  fancy  ;  and,  with  a  tin  ladle,  pour  more  jelly 
into  the  mould,  but  carefully  and  slowly,  in  order  not  to 
upset  the  fruit  you  have  in ;  continue  pouring  till  you  have  a 
thickness  of  about  half  an  inch  on  the  fruit.  Repeat  this 
as  many  times  as  you  please,  and  till  the  mould  is  full ; 
vary  the  fruit  at  each  layer,  and  especially  the  color  of  the 
different  kinds.  The  color  of  the  jelly  may  also  be  changed 
at  every  layer,  by  mixing  in  it  more  burnt  sugar,  some 
carmine  or  cochineal,  some  green  spinach,  a  little  in 
one  layer  and  more  in  another.  Any  kind  of  ripe  fruit 
can  be  used:  strawberries,  raspberries,  stoned  cherries, 
grapes,  apples  cut  in  fancy  shapes ;  also  peaches,  bananas, 
etc. 

Cold  Wine-Jelly. — Put  two  ounces  of  gelatin  in  a  bowl 
with  a  piece  of  cinnamon  and  a  pint  of  cold  water,  and 
let  stand  about  an  hour.  Then  pour  over  about  a  quart 
?>f  boiling  water,  and  let  stand  about  four  minutes.  After 
that,  add  two  pounds  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  three  lemons, 
a  pint  of  sherry  wine,  and  half  a  gill  of  t  randy.  Stir  to 


iOO  SWEET  DISHES. 

dissolve  the  sugar,  and  turn  the  mixture  into  a  mould 
through  a  strainer ;  place  on  ice,  and  serve  as  the  above 
jellies. 

Souffles. — Put  in  a  bowl  four  tablespoonfuls  of  potato- 
starch  with  three  yolks  of  eggs,  one  ounce  of  butter,  and  a 
few  drops  of  essence  to  flavor.  Turn  into  it,  little  by  lit- 
tle, stirring  the  while,  about  three  gills  of  milk ;  set  on  the 
fire,  stir  continually,  and  take  off  at  the  first  boiling.  Stir 
continually  but  slowly.  As  soon  as  cold,  beat  three  yolks 
of  eggs  with  a  tablespoonful  of  cold  water,  and  mix  them 
with  the  rest.  Beat  four  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  mix  them  also  gently  and  slowly.  Butter  a  mould 
well,  fill  it  about  two-thirds  full,  and  bake  in  a  warm  but 
not  quick  oven  (about  300°  Fahr.).  Besides  being  flavored 
with  essence,  souffles  may  be  flavored  with  coffee,  lemon, 
orange,  etc.,  according  to  taste.  Generally,  souffles  are 
served  under  the  name  of  the  object  used  to  flavor  them, 
such  as  souffle  au  cafe  (souffle  flavored  with  strong  coffee), 
etc.  They  are  ah1  made  in  the  same  way  as  the  above  one, 
with  the  exception  that  they  are  flavored  with  strong  coffee 
as  above,  and  used  instead  of  essence,  or  strong  tea,  choco 
late,  etc.,  or  with  a  little  jelly  of  different  fruit,  or  with 
roasted  chestnuts  well  pounded,  instead  of  potato-starch, 
etc. 

A  hundred  different  kinds  of  souffles  can  be  easily  made 
by  following  the  above  directions. 

Apples,  fried. — Peel  and  cut  in  small  dice,  dropping 
them  in  cold  water  till  the  whole  is  ready.  Then  fry  with 
a  little  butter  till  about  half  cooked,  when  add  a  little 
water  and  sugar  to  taste ;  finish  the  cooking,  take  from 
the  fire ;  beat  a  yolk  of  egg  with  a  teaspoonf nl  of  cold 
water  and  mix  it  with  the  apples ;  serve  warm.  Proceed 
in  the  same  way  with  pears. 


SWEET  DISHES.  401 

Peaches  baked. — Cut  peaches  in  two,  remove  the  stone, 
and  with  a  paste-cutter  cut  some  slices  of  bread,  and  place 
them  in  a  buttered  bakepan  with  half  of  a  peach  on  each, 
the  skin  downward ;  dust  well  with  sugar,  put  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  kidney-bean  on  each,  place  in  a  rather 
slow  oven  ;  dish  when  cooked,  turn  the  juice  over,  if  any  ; 
if  none,  a  little  syrup  of  pears,  and  serve  warm. 

Do  the  same  with  apricots,  plums,  and  slices  of  pine- 
apples. The  slices  of  pine-apples  may  be  soaked  in  kirsch- 
wasser  for  twenty-four  hours  before  using  them. 

Prunes,  stewed. — Wash  them  in  cold  water  if  necessary. 
Soak  them  in  tepid  water  for  about  two  hours,  and  set  the 
whole  on  the  fire ;  boil  gently  till  half  done,  when  add 
sugar  to  taste,  a  gill  of  claret  wine  to  half  a  pound  of  prunes^ 
and  serve  either  warm  or  cold  when  done.  If  the  water 
boils  away  too  much,  add  more. 

Currants,  Blackberries,  or  other  Fruit,  for  Dessert. — 
Beat  well  the  white  of  an  egg  with  a  little  water ;  dip  the 
fruit  in,  and  roll  it  immediately  in  some  fine-crushed  sugar ; 
place  it  on  a  dish,  and  leave  it  thus  five  or  six  hours,  and 
serve. 

A  more  sightly  and  exquisite  plate  of  dessert  than  a 
plate  of  currants  dressed  thus,  cannot  be  had. 

Besides  all  our  receipts,  any  kind  of  fruit  may  be  served 
for  dessert,  according  to  the  season;  also  any  kind  of 
cheese  ;  also  fruits  preserved  in  liquor. 

Berries  with  Milk  or  Cream. — Nearly  every  kind  of 
berries,  when  clean,  maybe  served  with  milk  or  cream,  and 
sugar  to  taste. 

With  Liquor. — They  may  also  be  served  with  brandy, 
rum,  kirschwasser,  whiskey,  etc.,  and  sugar. 

Marmalades,  or  Preserves  of  Fruits — Of  Apricots  or 
Peaches. — Boil  two  pounds  of  peaches  for  a  minute,  take 


4:02  SWEET   DISHES. 

off  and  drop  them  immediately  in  cold  water.  Drain  and 
skin  immediately,  cut  in  two  and  remove  the  stone.  Crack 
two-thirds  of  the  stones  and  throw  the  kernels  in  boiling 
water ;  leave  them  in  till  the  skin  comes  off  easily ; 
skin  them  well  and  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  length- 
wise. Lay  the  peaches  in  a  pan,  with  about  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  sugar,  set  on  the  fire,  boil  about  twenty  minutes, 
stirring  the  while  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore taking  from  the  fire,  put  also  the  kernels  in  the  pan  ; 
then  turn  in  pots  or  jars  as  soon  as  off  the  fire.  Cover 
well  when  cold,  and  keep  in  a  dry  and  cool  (but  not  cold) 
closet. 

Of  Plums. — Proceed  as  for  the  above. 

Of  Pears  and  Quinces. — Quarter,  peel,  and  core  the 
fruit,  put  it  in  a  pan,  and  proceed  for  the  rest  as  directed 
for  peaches,  except  that  you  use  sweet  almonds  instead  of 
kernels. 

Of  Blackberries,  Cherries,  Currants,  Raspberries,  and 
other  like  Berries. — Wash  the  fruit  in  cold  water,  drain, 
dry,  and  mash  it  through  a  sieve  placed  over  a  saucepan ; 
when  the  juice  and  pulp  are  in  the  pan  add  the  same  weight 
of  loaf-sugar  as  that  of  juice,  which  is  easily  ascertained  by 
weighing  the  pan  first ;  set  on  the  fire,  skim  it  carefully  ;  it 
takes  about  half  an  hour  to  cook ;  then  put  in  pots  and  let 
cool ;  cut  a  piece  of  white  paper  the  size  of  the  inside  of 
the  pot,  dip  it  in  brandy,  put  it  over  the  fruit,  cover  the 
pots,  and  place  them  in  a  dry  and  cool  closet. 

Of  Grapes. — Select  well-ripened  grapes  and  pick  the 
berries.  Put  them  in  a  thick  towel,  and  press  the  juice 
out,  which  you  put  in  a  copper  or  brass  saucepan,  set  on  a 
good  fire,  and  boil  till  about  half  reduced.  Skim  off  the 
scum,  and  stir  now  ard  then  while  it  is  on  the  fire.  Then 
add  about  half  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  to  a  pound  of  juice, 


BWEET  DISHES.  4:03 

boil  again  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  take  off,  put  in  pots 
or  jars,  cover  or  cork  well  when  cold,  and  put  away  in  a 
dark  and  cool  closet. 

Candied  or  Comfitcd  Fruit.— The  best  state  of  the 
fruit  to  be  candied  is  just  when  commencing  to  ripen  or  a 
little  before.  It  must  be  picked  in  dry  weather,  and  be 
sound ;  the  least  stain  is  enough  to  spoil  it  soon  after  it  is 
preserved. 

Peaches. — Make  a  cut  on  the  side  of  the  fruit  and  re- 
move the  stone  without  bruising  it ;  then  skin  it  carefully 
and  drop  it  in  a  pan  of  cold  water.  When  they  are  ah1  in, 
set  on  the  fire,  boil  gently  till  they  float  There  must  be 
much  more  water  than  is  necessary  to  cover  them,  in  order 
to  see  easily  when  they  come  to  the  surface.  Then  take 
them  off  carefully,  with  a  skimmer,  and  drop  them  in  cold 
water  and  drain.  When  drained,  put  them  in  a  pan,  cover 
them  with  syrup  of  sugar  after  it  is  skimmed  and  clarified. 
(See  SYRUP  OF  SUGAR.)  The  syrup  must  be  boiling  when 
turned  over  the  fruit.  Set  on  the  fire,  give  one  boil  only, 
and  turn  the  whole  into  a  bowl,  which  you  cover  with 
paper,  and  leave  thus  twelve  or  fifteen  hours.  After  that 
time,  drain,  put  the  syrup  on  the  fire,  the  peaches  in  the 
bowl,  and  at  the  first  boiling  of  the  syrup,  turn  it  over  the 
fruit,  cover  the  bowl  with  paper,  and  leave  about  as  long, 
that  is,  twelve  or  fifteen  hours. 

Repeat  the  same  process  three  times  more,  in  all  five 
times.  The  last  time  the  syrup  must  be  at  the  first  state 
as  described  for  gyrup  of  sugar.  Inexperienced  persons 
will  do  well  to  try  at  first  with  a  few  fruits,  and  go  through 
the  whole  process,  after  which  it  will  be  comparatively  easy. 

Every  one  is  awkward  in  doing  a  thing  for  the  first 
lime,  and  does  not  do  it  well,  however  easy  or  simple  it 
may  be.  That  is  the  reason  why  societies  of  farmers  make 


±04:  SWEET   DISHES. 

better  preserves  than  other  people;  they  teach  one  an 
other ;  and  besides,  no  one  is  allowed  to  touch  the  fruit 
before  having  seen  it  done  several  times. 

Candied  fruit,  as  well  as  preserves,  get  spoiled  by  fer- 
mentation, if  not  cooked  enough;  by  moisture,  if  kept  in 
a  damp  place ;  or  by  heat,  if  kept  in  a  warm  place. 

When  the  last  process  has  been  gone  through,  leave 
the  fruit  in  the  bowl  about  twenty-four  hours  ;  then  put  it 
in  jars,  cover  air-tight,  and  put  away  in  a  dry  and  cool 
closet.  It  may  also  be  drained,  dried  on  a  riddle  in  a  warm 
place,  and  kept  in  boxes.  A  wooden  riddle  or  screen  is 
better  than  a  metal  one.  They  may  also  be  put  in  decan- 
ters, covered  with  brandy  or  other  liquor,  and  corked  well. 
When  preserved  in  brandy,  it  is  not  necessary  to  remove 
the  stone  ;  they  may  be  covered  with  half  syrup  and  half 
brandy. 

Plums. — Pick  them  just  before  commencing  to  ripen, 
and  cut  the  stem  half  way.  When  clean,  but  neither 
stoned  nor  skinned,  prick  them  around  the  stem  with  a 
fork,  drop  them  in  cold  water,  set  on  the  fire,  add  a  gill  of 
vinegar  to  three  quarts  of  water,  and  take  from  the  fire  as 
soon  as  they  float.  Drain,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  pour  boil- 
ing syrup  of  sugar  over  them,  and  proceed  as  directed  for 
peaches,  that  is,  cover  and  pour  the  syrup  on  them  five 
times  in  all.  They  are  kept  like  peaches  also,  either  in 
jars,  dried,  or  in  brandy. 

Pears. — After  being  peeled  and  the  stem  cut  off  half 
way,  they  may  be  preserved  whole  or  in  quarters.  In 
peeling  them,  they  must  be  dropped  in  cold  water  with  a 
little  lemon-juice  to  keep  them  white.  They  are  picked 
just  before  commencing  to  ripen.  When  ready,  put  cold 
water  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon  to  every  two  quarts  in  a 
deep  pan,  and  drop  the  pears  in,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil 


SWEET  DISHES.  405 

gently  till  well  done ;  take  off,  drain  and  drop  in  cold 
water,  which  you  change  two  or  three  times  and  without 
stopping ;  then  drain  again,  place  them  in  a  large  bowl, 
and  then  proceed  as  for  peaches.  They  are  kept  like 
peaches  also. 

Apples. — Proceed  as  for  pears,  except  that  apples  are 
cooked  much  quicker. 

Pine-Apples. — Peel,  slice,  and  drop  the  fruit  in  cold 
water ;  add  a  little  sugar,  set  on  the  fire  and  boil  gently 
till  done,  when  drain  and  drop  in  cold  water  and  drain 
again.  Put  them  in  a  bowl,  and  proceed  as  for  peaches 
for  the  rest,  with  the  exception  that  they  are  kept  in  jars 
only,  and  not  dried  or  put  in  brandy. 

Chestnuts. — Skin  the  chestnuts  and  put  them  m  cold 
water  on  the  fire,  and  take  off  when  tender ;  then  remove 
the  under  skin  or  white  envelope  or  pith.  Place  them  in 
a  bowl,  and  proceed  as  for  peaches  for  the  rest 

Oranges. — Drop  oranges  in  boiling  water  and  take  off 
when  the  rind  is  tender,  and  when  a  darning-needle  can 
be  run  through  it  easily.  Drain  and  drop  them  in  cold 
water.  After  two  or  three  hours  drain,  cut  in  slices,  and 
put  them  in  a  bowl ;  then  proceed  as  for  peaches,  except 
that  they  are  kept  in  jars  only. 

Quinces. — Peel,  quarter,  and  core  quinces  just  before 
they  commence  ripening,  drop  in  boiling  water ;  drain  them 
when  done,  and  drop  them  immediately  in  cold  water. 
As  soon  as  cold,  take  them  off,  drain  and  put  them  in  a 
bowl.  For  the  rest,  proceed  as  for  peaches,  with  the  ex- 
ception that  they  are  only  kept  in  jars,  but  neither  dried 
nor  put  in  brandy. 

To  PRESERVE  IN  BRANDT. — Besides  the  dried  fruits 
above  described,  several  may  be  preserved  in  brandy,  with- 
out being  cooked  and  soaked  in  syrup  of  sugar. 


£06  SWEET   DISHES. 

Cherries. — Pick  them  when  fully  ripe,  see  that  they 
are  clean,  and  put  them  in  decanters  with  cloves,  pieces 
of  cinnamon,  and  entirely  covered  with  brandy ;  cover  well, 
but  do  not  cork,  and  leave  thus  two  weeks,  at  the  end  of 
which,  place  a  colander  over  a  vessel  and  empty  the  de- 
canters into  it ;  pass  the  liquor  through  a  jelly-bag,  mix  it 
with  some  syrup  of  sugar  at  the  second  degree,  turn  over 
the  fruit  which  you  cover  with  it,  and  cork  the  decanters 
well  when  perfectly  cold.  Keep  in  a  dark,  cool,  and  dry 
place. 

Do  the  same  with  strawberries  and  other  like  fruit. 

Fruit  Jellies — With  Apples  or  Quinces. — Peel,  core, 
and  cut  in  small  pieces  two  quarts  of  good  apples  or 
quinces,  lay  them  in  a  stewpan  with  a  clove  well  pounded, 
and  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  cover  with  water,  set  on  a 
moderate  fire,  and  boil  slowly  till  well  cooked.  Turn  into 
a  jelly-bag,  or  a  thick  towel  under  which  you  place  a 
vessel  to  receive  the  juice,  and  when  it  is  all  out,  put  it  in 
a  stewpan  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
every  pound  of  juice ;  boil  to  a  jelly. 

As  soon  as  done  put  it  in  pots  or  jars,  let  cool,  cut  a 
piece  of  white  paper  the  size  of  the  inside  of  the  pot,  dip 
it  in  brandy,  put  it  over  the  jelly,  cover  the  pot  well,  and 
place  in  a  dry,  cool  closet,  but  not  too  cold.  What  re- 
mains in  the  bag  may  be  used  to  make  a  compote.  Watch 
the  process  carefully,  skimmer  in  hand,  to  skim  off  the 
scum,  and  stir  now  and  then,  lest  it  should  burn. 

With  Apricots,  Peaches,  Plums,  etc. — After  Laving 
taken  the  stones  out,  cut  them  in  four  pieces,  and  proceed 
as  for  apple-jelly  above  in  every  other  particular. 

With  Blackberries,  Currants,  Grapes,  Raspberries,  or 
cthtr  like  Berries. — Put  the  well-ripened  berries  in  a  coarse 
towel  and  squeeze  all  the  juice  out  of  them,  which  you 


BWEET  DISHES.  407 

put  into  a  stewpan  with  as  many  pounds  of  loaf-sugar 
as  there  are  of  juice,  and  finish  as  directed  for  apple-jelly. 
A  little  rum  or  essence  of  rose,  or  any  other,  according  to 
taste,  may  be  added  just  before  taking  from  the  fire. 

Punch. — Put  a  saltspoonful  of  black  tea  in  a  crockery 
pot,  with  one  clove,  a  little  cinnamon,  and  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  cut  in  pieces;  pour  on  the  whole  half  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water;  let  it  remain  thus  five  minutes,  and  strain. 
Put  a  bottle  of  rum  or  brandy  in  a  crockery  vessel,  with 
twelve  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  set  the  rum  or  brandy  on  fire, 
and  let  burn  till  it  stops.  Then  mix  tea  and  rum  together, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use.  It  is  drunk  cold  or  warm,  ac- 
cording to  taste.  When  wanted  warm,  if  made  previous- 
ly, set  it  on  a  moderate  fire,  in  a  tin  or  crockery  kettle. 

It  keeps  very  well  if  carefully  bottled  and  corked 
when  cold. 

Another  way  to  make  it  is  to  mix  the  rum  or  brandy 
with  the  tea  without  burning  it.  It  is  warmed,  used,  and 
kept  like  the  above.  The  quantity  of  water  may  be  re- 
duced or  augmented,  according  to  taste,  and  so  also  the 
sugar. 

Another. — Grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  and  of  two 
oranges  on  a  piece  of  sugar,  the  yellow  part  only,  and  put 
it  in  a  bowl  with  cold  water  to  dissolve  it ;  then  add  two 
gills  of  pine-apple  syrup,  essence  of  vanilla,  a  pint  of  claret 
wine,  a  pint  of  Catawba,  Sauterne,  or  Rhine  wine,  a  pint 
of  Champagne,  and  a  gill  of  brandy  ;  sweeten  to  taste ; 
strain,  put  on  ice  for  some  time,  and  serve. 

Another. — Put  a  pound  of  sugar  in  a  bowl  with  a  gill 
of  water  to  dissolve  it;  then  add  the  juice  of  three 
oranges,  a  little  rind  grated,  a  bottle  of  Champagne  and 
one  of  Catawba  or  Sauterne  wine  ;  strain,  place  on  ice  for 
some  time,  and  serve  cold. 


408  SWEET   DISHES. 

Roman  Punch. — Make  iced  lemon  with  one  quart  of 
juice,  same  of  syrup  as  directed,  then  mix  with  it  the  juice 
of  four  oranges,  some  lemon  and  orange  rind  grated,  and 
about  three  gills  of  rum  (or  according  to  taste) ;  also,  if 
liked,  the  preparation  used  for  iced  fruit.  Then  put  the 
mixture  in  the  freezer,  stir  while  freezing,  and  serve.  It 
must  not  be  frozen  hard,  as  it  is  better  when  served  rather 
liquid  and  frothy.  It  may  be  made  with  any  other  liquor, 
if  preferred. 

Punch  is  served  either  after  the  entrees  or  after  the 
releves  of  fish,  according  to  taste. 


PASTRY. 


OF  all  the  branches  of  the  science  and  art  of  cooking, 
pastry,  if  not  the  most  difficult,  requires  the  greatest  care. 
An  inferior  piece  of  meat  makes  an  inferior  dish,  but  still 
it  can  be  eaten  without  danger :  but  inferior  pastry  can 
hardly  be  eaten ;  or,  if  eaten,  it  is  indigestible.  We  will 
recommend  our  readers  to  be  very  careful  about  propor- 
tions; it  would  not  make  a  great  difference  for  some 
kinds,  but  for  others,  putting  too  much  or  too  little  of  one 
or  more  things  would  certainly  result  in  failure.  It  is 
very  important  to  have  good  materials.  New  flour  is  very 
inferior  for  pastry ;  it  must  have  been  ground  for  at  least 
three  months.  Always  keep  it  in  bags,  and  in  a  dry  and 
well-ventilated  place.  Sift  before  using  it.  Use  fresh 
eggs,  good  butter,  and  good  pulverized  sugar. 

The  most  important  of  all  is  the  oven,  for,  supposing 
that  you  have  used  good  materials,  have  mixed  them  well, 
if  not  properly  baked,  every  thing  is  lost,  materials  and 
labor.  Supposing  'that  you  have  a  good  oven,  there  is 
still  a  difficulty — and  if  the  last,  not  the  least — the  degree 
of  heat.  Some  require  a  quick  oven,  as  puff-paste,  choux, 
etc.;  others  a  warm  one,  and  others  a  slow  oven,  as  me' 
rtngues,  biscuits,  etc.  By  putting  the  hand  in  the  oven 
you  can  tell  if  it  is  properly  heated,  but  it  requires  ex- 
18 


410  PASTRY. 

perience,  and  even  practitioners  are  often  mistaken ;  there- 
fore, the  easiest  way  is  to  have  a  thermometer  in  the  oven. 
It  may  be  placed  in  the  oven  of  every  stove  or  range ;  it 
is  only  necessary  to  bore  a  hole  on  the  top  of  the  range 
or  stove,  reaching  the  oven,  and  have  a  thermometer  with 
the  bulb  inclosed  in  a  brass  sheath,  perforated,  long 
enough  to  reach  the  oven,  and  of  the  size  of  the  hole 
bored — the  glass  tube  being  above  the  top  of  the  range. 

Pastes. — There  are  several  kinds  of  paste.  Puff-paste 
is  the  most  important ;  it  can  be  made  very  rich,  rich,  and 
less  so ;  and  several  hundred  different  cakes  can  be  made 
with  it  Small  cakes  are  called  petits  fours. 

The  next  in  importance  is  the  pdte-a-choux  ;  then  the 
paste  for  meat-pies,  sometimes  called  pate  brisee. 

Puff-paste  requires  care,  but  is  easily  made ;  pate-a- 
choux  must  be  well  worked. 

Puff-paste. — To  make  good  puff-paste,  good  flour  and 
butter,  free  from  salt  or  sour  milk,  are  indispensable. 
It  must  be  made  in  a  cool  place.  Take  half  a  pound  of 
good  butter  and  knead  it  well  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water;  if 
fresh  and  not  salt,  the  kneading  will  take  the  sour  milk 
out  of  it ;  if  salty,  it  will  remove  the  salt,  then  put  it  in 
another  bowl  of  cold  water  and  leave  it  till  it  is  perfectly 
firm,  and  then  use.  When  the  butter  is  ready,  put  half  a 
pound  of  flour  on  the  paste-board  or  marble,  make  a  hole 
in  it,  in  which  you  put  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  cold  water 
enough  to  make  a  rather  stiff  dough.  It  requires  about 
half  a  pint  of  water,  knead  well,  make  a  kind  of  ball  with 
the  dough,  and  put  it  on  a  corner  of  your  marble  or  paste- 
board. Take  the  butter  from  the  water  and  knead  it  on 
(he  board,  to  press  all  the  water  out  of  it.  Give  it  the 
shape  of  a  large  sausage ;  dredge  the  board  slightly  with 
flour,  roll  the  butter  over  only  once,  as  it  must  take  very 


PASTKY.  411 

little  of  it,  dredge  both  ends  of  the  piece  of  butter  with 
flour  also,  then  by  putting  one  end  on  the  board  and  press- 
ing on  the  other  end  with  your  hands,  you  will  flatten  it 
of  a  rather  round  shape,  and  till  of  about  half  an  inch  in 
thickness.  Put  it  thus  on  the  corner  of  the  board  also. 
Immediately  after  having  prepared  the  butter,  take  the 
dough  and  roll  it  down,  of  a  round  form  also,  and  till 
large  enough  to  envelop  the  butter  in  it  easily.  Re- 
member that  during  the  whole  operation  of  folding  and 
rolling  the  paste  down,  you  must  dust  the  marble  or  paste- 
board with  flour,  very  slightly  and  often ;  do  the  same  on 
the  top  of  the  paste.  It  is  done  in  order  to  prevent  the 
paste  from  adhering  to  the  board  or  to  the  rolling-pin.  It 
must  be  dusted  slightly,  so  that  the  paste  cannot  absorb 
much  of  it,  as  it  would  make  it  tough.  Have  a  slab  of 
marble  or  slate  ;  it  is  much  easier  than  wood,  and  cooler. 
When  the  dough  is  spread,  place  the  butter  right  on 
the  middle  of  it.  Turn  one  side  of  the  dough  over  the 
butter,  covering  it  a  little  more  than  half  way ;  do  the  same 
with  the  opposite  side,  the  dough  lapping  over  that  of  the 
first  side  turned ;  do  the  same  with  the  side  toward  you, 
and  also  with  the  side  opposite.  Dough  stretching  easily 
when  pulled,  and  contracting  easily  when  let  loose  after 
having  pulled  it,  you  have  now  still  four  corners  of  the 
dough  to  bring  over  the  butter  and  in  the  same  way  as 
above,  and  by  doing  which,  you  give  to  tho  whole  a  some- 
what round  form,  and  also  have  the  butter  perfectly 
enveloped  in  the  dough.  Place  the  rolling-pin  on  the  mid- 
dle of  the  paste,  horizontally,  and  press  gently  on  it  so  as 
to  make  a  furrow ;  do  the  same  from  place  to  place,  on  the 
whole  surface,  making  frrrows  about  an  inch  apart.  Re- 
peat the  process  again,  this  time  placing  the  rolling-pin 
fight  on  the  top  of  each  elevated  line ;  and  again,  repeat 


PASTRY. 

it  a  third  time,  also  placing  the  pin  on  each  elevated  line, 
Now  do  exactly  the  same  contrariwise.  Then,  roll  the 
paste  down,  gently,  evenly,  to  a  thickness  of  about  one 
fourth  of  an  inch,  and  of  a  rectangular  shape.  Fold  it  in 
three  by  turning  over  one-third  of  its  length  toward  the 
other  end,  and  thus  covering  another  third  of  it ;  fold  or 
turn  over  the  remaining  third,  so  as  to  cover  the  first  third 
turned  over.  Roll  it  down  again  of  about  the  same 
thickness  as  above,  but  without  making  furrows  in  it ; 
give  it  also  the  same  rectangular  shape,  taking  care  to 
make  the  length  of  what  was  the  width,  i.  e.  extending  it 
the  longer  way  in  an  opposite  direction  to  that  of  the 
first  time,  so  that  the  ends  will  be  what  the  sides  were. 
Fold  in  three  as  before,  put  it  on  a  plate  and  set  in  a  re- 
frigerator for  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes.  Take  hold  of 
it  again,  roll  down  as  above,  fold  in  the  same  way  also, 
and  put  away  for  ten  minutes.  You  roll  down  and  fold 
from  four  to  six  times,  not  counting  the  time  you  envelop 
the  butter  in  the  dough.  In  cold  weather,  and  when 
the  butter  is  firm,  fold  and  roll  only  four  times  ;  but  in 
rather  warm  weather,  fold  and  roll  six  times.  If  it  is  too 
warm,  it  is  of  no  use  to  try  with  butter. 

Puff-paste  may  be  made  without  stopping;  that  is, 
without  putting  it  away  in  a  cool  place  for  some  time ; 
but  it  is  better  to  let  it  rest ;  it  is  lighter  and  rises  better. 
When  finished,  it  can  be  used  immediately ;  but  it  is  bet- 
ter also  to  put  it  in  a  plate  or  dish,  cover  it  with  a  towel, 
and  put  it  in  a  refrigerator  for  from  twelve  to  twenty-four 
hours.  Although  it  must  be  kept  in  a  cool  place,  do  not 
put  it  near  enough  to  the  ice  to  freeze.  It  may  be  kept 
thus  for  two  or  three-  days. 

Puff-paste  with  Beef-Suet. — Take  half  a  pound  of 
fresh  beef  suet,  the  nearest  the  kidney  the  best;  break  it 


PASTKY.  413 

in  small  pieces  with  the  hands,  at  the  same  time  removing 
the  thin  skin  and  fibres  as  much  as  possible;  put  it  in  a 
bowl  of  cold  water  and  knead  well  till  it  is  rather  soft ; 
take  it  off,  mash  and  bruise  it  well  on  the  paste-board  with 
a  rolling-pin ;  knead  it  again  like  butter ;  roll  it  in  flour 
like  butter  also,  and  proceed  as  above  for  the  rest,  and  with 
the  same  proportion,  weight  for  weight  of  flour  and  beef- 
suet,  but  it  requires  more  salt.  Beef-suet  being  more  firm 
than  butter,  puff-paste  can  be  made  with  it  during  sum- 
mer, but  it  must  be  eaten  immediately,  being  very  inferior 
after  a  while. 

The  proportion  of  butter  and  flour  may  be  varied. 
Weight  for  weight  makes  the  real  puff-paste,  and  very 
rich.  If  less  butter  is  used  it  will  not  rise  as  much,  but  is 
excellent  nevertheless,  and  is  more  handy  to  make  different 
cakes,  such  as  short-cakes  with  fruit.  Therefore  puff-paste 
may  be  made  with  the  following  proportions :  to  one  pound 
of  flour,  use  fourteen,  twelve,  ten,  eight,  or  even  four  ounces 
of  butter  or  suet.  Another  way  is  to  mix  one  or  two  eggs 
in  the  flour,  water,  and  salt  before  rolling  it  down.  When 
eggs  are  used,  it  requires  less  water.  Envelop  the  butter 
in  it  in  the  same  way. 

Allumettes. — Cut  strips  of  puff-paste  of  any  length, 
about  three  inches  wide  and  about  one-fifth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  mix  well  together,  and  for  about  three  or  four 
minutes,  one  ounce  of  sugar  and  about  half  the  white  of 
an  egg ;  spread  this  mixture  over  the  strips  of  paste,  so 
as  to  have  a  rather  thin  coat  of  it ;  then  cut  the  paste 
across,  so  as  to  make  small  strips  about  one  inch  broad 
and  three  inches  long.  Bake  in  an  oven  at  about  400 
deg.  Fahr. 

Feuillettes. — Roll  puff-paste  down  to  a  thickness  of 
from  one-eighth  to  one-half  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  cut 


PASTEY. 

it  in  pieces  of  any  size  and  shape,  according  to  fancy 
with  a  knife  or  with  a  paste-cutter;  glaze  the  top  only 
with  egg,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  450  deg.  Fahr. 

Feuillettes  a  la  Conde. — Roll  and  cut  the  paste  exactly 
as  for  the  above ;  then,  instead  of  baking  it,  fry  it  in  hot 
fat  (see  FRYING)  ;  turn  into  a  colander  when  fried,  dust 
with  sugar,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possible. 

Pommees. — Line  the  bottom  of  a  bakepan  with  puff- 
paste,  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness ;  spread 
stewed  apples  over  it  of  a  thickness  of  one-quarter  of  an 
inch ;  cover  these  with  another  thickness  of  puff-paste ; 
prick  the  cover  all  over  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and  bake 
in  an  oven  at  about  400  deg.  Fahr.  When  baked,  cut  it 
in  square  pieces,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve  hot  or  cold, 
according  to  taste. 

Porte-manteaux. — Cut  strips  of  puff-paste  of  any  length, 
about  three  inches  broad,  and  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  spread  on  the  middle  of  the  strips,  and  length- 
wise, some  frangipane,  or  stewed  apples,  or  any  kind  of 
sweetmeats,  of  the  size  of  the  finger.  Then  turn  one  side 
of  the  paste  over  the  frangipane  or  sweetmeats,  glaze  the 
border  with  egg  (we  mean  by  "  the  border,"  about  half  an 
inch  in  width,  measuring  from  the  edge) ;  then  turn  the 
other  side  over  it  so  that  the  glazing  will  cause  the  two 
pastes  to  stick  together.  Thus  it  will  be  only  a 
little  over  an  inch  broad  and  about  half  an  inch  thick. 
Cut  the  strips  across  in  small  pieces  about  two  inches  long, 
glaze  the  top  with  egg,  and  then  bake  in  an  oven  at  400 
deg.  Fahr. 

Tartelettes. — Roll  some  puff-paste  down  to  a  thick- 
ness of  about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  ;  cut  it,  with  a  paste- 
cutter,  of  the  size  of  small  tin  moulds,  and  place  the  pieces 
in  the  moulds ;  put  about  a  teaspoonful  of  frangipane  in 


PASTRY.  4:15 

each;  place  two  narrow  strips  of  paste  across  each,  which 
strips  you  cut  with  a  truckle ;  bake  in  an  oven  at  about 
380  deg.  Fahr. 

Tartelettes  (sweet). — Proceed  as  for  the  above  in  every 
particular,  except  that  you  use  any  kind  of  sweetmeats  or 
jelly  instead  of  frangipane. 

Cake  Pithiviers. — Roll  some  puff-paste  down  to  a 
thickness  of  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch;  cut  it  round 
and  place  on  a  baking-pan ;  if  the  pan  be  square  or  rec- 
tangular, cut  a  round  piece  that  will  go  in  easily ;  cut  a 
strip  of  paste  about  one  inch  broad,  glaze  with  egg  the 
border  of  the  paste  in  the  pan,  place  the  strip  all  around, 
and  then  glaze  it  also.  Fill  the  middle  with  the  following 
mixture :  pound  four  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  and  mix 
them  well  with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, four  yolks  of  eggs,  essence  to  flavor,  and  four  maca- 
roons chopped.  Cut  another  piece  of  puff-paste  round, 
and  of  the  same  size  as  the  other ;  dust  it  slightly  with  flour, 
fold  it  gently  in  four;  the  piece  then  will  have  two  straight 
sides  and  a  circular  one.  With  a  sharp  knife  make  three 
cuts  in  each  of  the  two  straight  sides  through  the  four 
thicknesses  of  the  paste,  and  about  half  an  inch  in  length. 
Make  another  cut  through  the  paste  also,  representing  half 
of  the  figure  8,  right  in  the  middle  of  the  piece  of  paste, 
commencing  half  an  inch  from  the  border  of  the  circular 
side  and  in  the  middle  of  it,  and  going  toward  the  point, 
so  that  when  the  paste  is  open  there  are  sixteen  cute  in  it 
Place  the  paste  still  folded  on  the  paste  and  mixture  in 
the  pan,  the  circular  side  on  the  border  and  the  point 
right  in  the  middle  ;  open  it  gently,  and  the  whole  will  be 
covered.  Glaze  with  egg,  and  put  in  an  oven  at  from  430 
to  460  deg.  Fahr.  The  same  cake  may  be  filled  with  a 
frangipane,  and  prepared  as  the  above  for  the  rest. 


1:16  PASTRY. 

fiissoles  (also  called  Fourres). — Cut  round  pieces  of 
puff-paste  about  three  inches  in  diameter;  wet  the  edge 
with  water,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  compote  or  any  kind  of 
sweetmeat  on  one  side  of  it,  then  fold  the  paste  in  two,  so 
as  to  cover  tne  sweetmeat;  pinch  the  paste  around  to  cause 
it  to  adhere,  in  order  to  envelop  the  sweetmeat ;  you  have 
then  a  cake  of  a  semicircular  shape.  Glaze  with  egg, 
bake  in  a  quick  oven,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

Galette  du  Gymnase. — Make  puff-paste  with  half  a 
pound  of  butter  to  a  pound  of  flour,  and  when  done  as 
directed,  knead  it.  Then  roll  it  down  to  the  thickness 
of  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  cut  it  in  strips  of  any 
length  and  about  an  inch  and  a  half  wide,  glaze  with  egg, 
bake  in  a  quick  oven,  about  420  deg.  Fahr.  The  two 
ends  of  the  strips  may  be  brought  together  and  joined, 
forming  a  crown.  The  same  galette  is  made  with  trim 
mings  of  puff-paste,  kneaded  and  rolled  as  above. 

Fanchonnettes. — These  are  made  with  the  same  puff- 
paste  as  the  galette  above ;  then  cut  it  in  round  pieces, 
place  them  on  small  moulds,  fill  them  with  any  kind  of 
sweetmeats  and  frangipane,  with  almonds,  half  of  each ; 
bake,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve.  Instead  of  frangipane, 
spread  raisins  over  the  sweetmeats,  or  almonds,  peanuts, 
hazel-nuts,  etc.,  all  cut  in  small  strips,  lengthwise ;  you  make 
then  an  infinite  number  of  different  small  cakes. 

Fans. — Make  some  puff-paste  with  equal  weight  of 
flour  and  butter,  fold  and  roll  it  down  six  times,  and  put 
in  a  cold  place.  Leave  it  of  a  thickness  of  about  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch ;  cut  it  with  a  sharp  knife  in  pieces  of 
a  rectangular  shape,  about  four  inches  long  and  two  broad, 
which  cut  again  in  two,  across  and  from  one  corner  to  the 
other,  so  that  you  make  two  pieces  of  a  right-angled  tri- 
%ngle  shape.  Place  the  pieces  on  their  sides  in  a  bake- 


PASTRY.  417 

pan,  on  their  sides,  far  apart,  and  bake  in  a  very  quick 
oven.  When  done,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

Vol-au-vent  and  bouchees  for  the  day's  use  are  baked 
early  in  the  morning.  They  are  wanned  in  a  slow  oven 
just  before  filling  them. 

Vol-au-vent. — A  vol-au-vent  is  made  with  puff-paste 
and  filled  with  oysters,  meat,  etc.,  when  baked ;  that  is, 
when  the  cake  is  baked  and  emptied,  it  is  warmed  in  the 
oven,  filled,  and  served  warm.  It  is  made  of  an  oval  or 
round  shape.  When  made  small  it  is  generally  of  a  round 
shape,  but  when  made  rather  large  it  is  generally  of  an 
oval  shape.  When  the  puff-paste  is  ready  to  be  used, 
roll  down  to  any  thickness  from  one-quarter  to  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch ;  cut  it  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife 
of  the  size  and  shape  you  wish,  then  with  the  same 
knife  cut  what  is  called  the  cover,  i.  e.,  make  a  cut  all 
around,  about  half  an  inch  from  the  edge  or  border,  and 
about  one-third  through  the  paste,  leaving  two-thirds  of 
the  thickness  of  the  paste  uncut.  This  operation  is  called 
marking  out  the  cover.  Glaze  the  top  of  the  paste  with 
egg,  and  bake  it  in  a  very  quick  oven,  about  500  deg. 
Fahr.  In  glazing,  be  careful  not  to  glaze  the  sides  or 
allow  any  egg  to  run  on  the  sides ;  it  would  prevent  the 
paste  from  rising.  Some  drawings  may  be  made  on  the 
cover  with  the  back  of  a  knife,  according  to  fanc^ :  leaves, 
for  instance,  are  very  easily  imitated ;  it  is  only  necessary 
to  run  the  knife  on  the  paste,  without  cutting  it.  When 
in  the  oven,  do  not  look  at  it  for  at  least  seven  or  eight 
minutes,  for  in  opening  the  door  of  the  oven  it  might 
cause  the  paste  to  fall,  and  even  after  that  time  open  and 
shut  the  door  quickly ;  take  off  when  properly  baked. 
When  the  oven  is  hot  enough  it  takes  about  twelve  min- 
utes, and  even  less  time  when  the  vol-au-ven,t  is  small. 
18* 


418  PASTRY. 

Take  from  the  oven  when  bated,  and  immediately  run  the 
point  of  the  knife  all  around  and  in  the  same  place  as 
you  did  before  being  baked,  which  place  is  well  marked. 
Thus  you  cut  off  the  cover  and  remove  it,  then  remove 
also  all  the  unbaked  paste  that  is  inside  of  the  vol-au-vent, 
go  that  you  have  left  what  may  be  called  a  shell.  Keep  it 
then  till  the  oysters  or  meat  are  ready  to  put  in  it.  About 
five  minutes  before  the  filling  is  ready,  put  the  shell  or 
baked  paste  in  a  slow  oven  to  warm  it,  turn  the  filling 
into  it,  enough  to  fill  it  entirely ;  place  the  cover  on  the 
top,  and  serve  warm.  The  unbaked  paste  removed  from 
the  inside  is  baked,  and  makes  an  excellent  cake,  though 
not  a  sightly  one. 

Another. — Cut  a  piece  of  puff-paste  the  same  as  for 
the  above  one,  that  is,  either  round  or  oval,  and  of  the 
size  you  wish.  Instead  of  marking  a  cover,  glaze  the  bor- 
der with  egg.  It  is  understood  here  by  "  the  border,"  a 
space  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  broad  and  all  around 
it,  the  space  being  measured  from  the  edge  toward  the 
centre.  Then  cut  a  strip  of  puff-paste  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  inch  broad,  long  enough  to  cover  the  place  or 
space  glazed,  which  strip  you  put  all  around  the  first  paste, 
and  you  then  have  a  border.  The  place  between  the  two 
pastes  being  glazed,  they  will  adhere  in  baking.  Then 
also  glaze  the  upper  side  of  the  border  carefully  with 
egg.  With  a  knife  or  fork,  prick  the  paste,  inside  of  the 
border  only,  in  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty  places,  according  to 
the  size  of  the  vol-au-vent,  and  in  order  to  prevent  that 
part  from  rising-  as  much  as  it  would  if  not  pricked. 
Bake  in  the  same  oven  as  the  above — a  very  quick  one. 

A  vol-au-vent  thus  made  is  deeper  than  the  first  one, 
having  two  thicknesses  of  paste.  Generally  there  is  little 
or  no  paste  (unbaked)  to  remove ;  having  pricked  the  cen 


PASTRY.  419 

Ire,  it  prevents  it  from  rising  and  bakes  it  evenly,  but  if 
there  is  any,  remove  it  A  cover  may  be  made  by  cutting 
a  piece  of  puff-paste  of  the  size  of  the  vol-au-vent  and 
baking  it  separately.  It  may  be  decorated  with  the  back 
of  the  knife  as  the  above  one,  and  made  convex  on  the  top 
by  baking  it  on  a  piece  of  tin.  It  is  warmed,  filled,  and 
served  the  same  as  the  above. 

A  vol-au-vent  is  filled  with  the  following : 

With  Oysters. — The  quantity  is  according  to  the  size 
of  the  vol-au-vent.  Blanch  one  quart  of  oysters.  Put 
two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan,  set  it  on  the  fire,  and 
when  melted  add  a  tablespoon ful  of  flour;  stir,  and  when 
turning  rather  yellow  add  also  about  a  pint  of  milk,  and 
the  liquor  from  the  oysters ;  stir,  and  as  soon  as  it  turns 
rather  thick  put  the  oysters  in,  taking  care  to  have  them 
free  from  pieces  of  the  shell.  Give  one  boil,  add  salt  to 
taste,  two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  again,  turn  into  the  warm 
paste,  place  the  cover  on,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Lobster. — Prepare  the  lobster  as  for  bouchees, 
fill  the  shell  with  it,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Cod-fish. — Prepare  fresh  cod-fish  a  la  Bechamel^ 
fill  the  vol-au-vent  or  shell  with  it,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Turbot. — Proceed  as  for  cod-fish  in  every  par- 
ticular. 

With  Eels. — Fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  eels,  oyster 
sauce,  or  in  poulette,  and  serve  warm. 

With  Chicken. — Fill  with  a  chicken  or  part  of  a 
chicken  in  fricassee  or  saute. 

With  Livers  and  Combs  of  Chicken. — Prepare  combs 
and  livers  of  chicken  in  fricassee,  the  same  as  a  chicken, 
fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  them.  Serve  hot. 

With  Sweetbreads. — Cook  the  sweetbreads  as  directed, 
and  fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  them.  Serve  warm. 


120  PASTKY. 

With  Veal. — Fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  veal  in  blan- 
quette,  in  ragout,  or  in  bourgeoise,  and  serve.  It  is  gen- 
erally filled  with  what  has  been  left  the  day  previous,  as  it 
requires  very  little  for  a  vol-au-vent. 

With  Brains. — It  may  be  filled  with  brains  of  calf, 
pig,  sheep,  or  veal ;  prepared  in  poulette,  or  stewed. 

With  Rabbit. — Fill  it  with  part  of  a  rabbit  saute. 

It  may  also  be  filled  with  any  other  meat  or  fish,  ac- 
cording to  taste,  and  being  cooked  previously. 

With  Fruits. — Fill  the  vol-au-vent  with  any  kind  of 
etewed  fruit,  jelly,  sweetmeats,  etc.  It  may  be  only 
filled,  or  the  fruit  may  be  dressed  in  pyramid  inside  of  it. 
Vouchees. — Bouchees^  or  petites  bouchees,  as  they  are 
sometimes  called,  are  small,  round  vol-au-vent,  served 
warm.  They  are  also  called  bouchees  de  dames  andpetites 
bouchees.  Roll  puff-paste  down  to  a  thickness  of  about 
one-quarter  of  an  inch,  cut  it  with  a  paste-cutter  of  any 
size,  mark  the  cover,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  450° 
Fahr.  A  good  size  is  about  three  inches  in  diameter. 
When  cut,  take  another  paste-cutter  about  two  inches  in 
diameter,  place  it  on  the  piece  of  paste ;  press  on  it  just 
enough  to  mark  the  place  where  it  was,  but  not  enough 
to  cut  the  paste,  remove  it  and  then  the  cover  is  marked ; 
that  is,  you  have  a  circle  on  the  top  of  the  paste,  half  an 
inch  from  the  edge  all  around.  Glaze  with  egg  and  bake. 
Make  one  for  each  person.  Immediately  on  taking  them 
from  the  oven,  cut  off  the  cover  with  a  sharp-pointed 
knife.  That  is  easily  done ;  it  is  only  necessary  to  follow 
the  mark  made  with  the  paste-cutter,  which  is  just  as 
visible  as  before  baking.  Remove  the  cover  and  then 
carefully  take  out  some  unbaked  paste  inside  of  the 
bouchee,  fill  with  lobster  prepared  as  directed  below,  put 
the  cover  en,  and  serve  as  warm  as  possible. 


PASTRY.  421 

The  Filling. — Cut  some  flesh  of  boiled  lobster  in  dice. 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  and  set  it  on  the 
fire ;  -when  melted,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  stir  for 
about  one  minute,  and  add  also  broth  (the  quantity  must 
be  according  to  the  number  of  bouchees,  but  we  will  give 
here  the  quantity  necessary  for  five  or  six  bouchees),  about 
three  gills,  also  salt,  pepper,  then  the  cut  lobster ;  stir 
now  and  then  for  five  or  six  minutes,  and  use. 

Of  Oysters. — Prepare,  fill  and  serve  exactly  as  the 
above,  except  that  you  fill  with  oysters  prepared  as  for 
vol-au-vent,  instead  of  filling  with  lobster. 

Of  Cod-fish. — Fill  the  bouchees  with  cod-fish,  prepared 
a  la  Bechamel,  and  serve  warm. 

Of  Eels. — Have  some  eels  prepared  either  in  poulette 
or  oyster-sauce,  fill  the  bouchees,  and  serve  warm. 

Of  Turbot. — It  is  filled  with  turbot  a  la  creme  or  a  la 
Bechamel. 

It  may  also  be  filled  with  any  kind  of  fish,  prepared 
a  la  Bechamel,  a  la  creme,  in  white  sauce,  oyster-sauce,  etc. 

Of  Truffles. — Cut  the  white  flesh  of  a  chicken  in  dice, 
prepare  it  as  a  chicken  saute,  usiug  truffles  but  no  mush- 
rooms, fill  the  bouchees  with  it  and  serve  warm. 

Of  Puree  of  Chicken,  or  Bouchees  de  Dames. — It  is 
filled  with  some  puree  of  chicken,  and  served  as  warm  as 
possible. 

Do  the  same  with  a  puree  of  game. 

Of  Bobolink. — Prepare  and  clean  twelve  bobolinks  as 
directed  for  birds,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  truffles,  cut  in 
small  dice,  in  each  bird,  for  stuffing ;  sew  the  incision,  and 
bake  or  roast  the  birds.  Put  each  bird  in  a  bouchee,  and 
serve  warm.  A  more  delicate  dish  cannot  be  made. 

The  same  may  be  done  with  any  kind  of  small  bird. 

Bouchees  are  generally  served  on  a  napkin  and  on  a 

,  in  pyramid. 


i22  PASTRY. 

Pate  a  choux. — Weigh  four  ounces  of  flour,  to  which 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar.  Put  two  gills  of  cold 
water  in  a  tin  saucepan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  set 
it  on  the  fire,  stir  a  little  with  a  wooden  spoon  to  melt 
the  butter  before  the  water  boils.  At  the  first  boiling  of 
the  water,  throw  into  it  the  four  ounces  of  flour  and  stir 
very  fast  with  the  spoon,  holding  the  pan  fast  with  the 
left  hand.  As  soon  as  the  whole  is  thoroughly  mixed, 
take  from  the  fire,  but  continue  stirring  for  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  seconds.  It  takes  hardly  half  a  minute  from 
the  time  the  flour  is  dropped  in  the  pan  to  that  when 
taken  from  the  fire.  The  quicker  it  is  done,  the  better. 
When  properly  done,  nothing  at  all  sticks  to  the  pan,  and 
by  touching  it  with  the  finger  it  feels  as  soft  as  velvet,  and 
loes  not  adhere  to  it  at  all.  Let  it  stand  two  or  three 
minutes,  then  mix  well  with  it,  by  means  of  a  spoon,  one 
egg;  then  another,  and  so  on ;  in  all  four.  It  takes  some 
time  and  work  to  mix  the  eggs,  especially  to  mix  the  first 
one,  the  paste  being  rather  stiff.  They  are  added  one  at 
a  time,  in  order  to  mix  them  better.  If  the  eggs  are 
small,  add  half  of  one  or  one  more.  To  use  only  half  a 
one,  it  is  necessary  to  beat  it  first.  Let  the  paste  stand 
half  an  hour,  stir  again  a  little,  and  use.  If  it  is  left 
standing  for  some  time  and  is  found  rather  dry,  add  a 
little  egg,  which  mix,  and  then  use. 

Beignets  Souffles — (also  called  Pets  de  Nonne). — Make 
some  pate  a  choux;  take  a  small  tablespoonful  of  it> 
holding  the  spoon  with  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  fore- 
finger of  the  right  cause  the  paste  to  fall  in  hot  fat  on  the 
fire  (see  FRYING),  turn  over  and  over  again  till  fried,  then 
turn  into  a  colander,  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve  hot.  In 
frying,  the  paste  will  swell  four  or  five  times  its  size,  and 
by  dropping  it  carefully  and  as  nearly  of  a  round  shape  as 
possible,  the  cakes  will  be  nearly  round  when  done. 


PASTEY.  423 

Choux  or  Cream  Calces. — Make  some  pate  a  choux  ; 
have  a  buttered  bakepan,  and  drop  tlie  paste  upon  it  in 
the  same  way  as  you  drop  the  beignets  above  ;  glaze  with 
egg,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  380°  Fahr.  When 
baked  and  cold,  make  a  cut  on  one  side,  about  two-thirds 
through,  the  cut  to  be  horizontal,  a  little  above  the  middle, 
then,  by  raising  the  top  a  little,  fill  the  cake,  which  is  hol- 
low, with  one  of  the  following  creams :  whipped,  Chantilly, 
cuite,  frangipane,  or  legere  ;  dust  with  sugar,  and  serve. 

The  same,  with  Almonds. — Blanch  sweet  almonds  and 
cut  them  in  small  strips,  lengthwise ;  then,  when  the  choux 
are  in  the  bakepan  and  glazed  with  egg,  spread  the  al- 
monds all  over,  bake,  fill,  and  serve  as  the  above. 

Saint  Honore. — Make  some  pate  a  choux.  Then  put 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  on  the  paste-board  with  two 
of  sugar,  one  egg,  one  ounce  of  butter,  salt,  and  a  pinch 
of  cinnamon;  mix  and  knead  the  whole  well;  roll  the 
paste  down  to  a  thickness  of  about  one  quarter  of  an  inch 
and  place  it  in  a  bakepan.  Put  a  dessert-plate  upside 
down  on  the  paste,  and  cut  it  all  around  the  plate  with  a 
knife ;  remove  what  is  cut  off  and  also  the  plate.  Spread 
some  pate  a  choux,  about  a  teaspoonful,  all  over  the  paste 
left  in  the  bakepan,  about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  put  some  of  it  also  in  the  pastry-bag,  and  by 
squeezing  it  out,  make  a  border  with  it  about  the  size  of 
the  finger ;  prick  the  middle  of  the  paste  in  about  a  dozen 
places  with  a  fork  and  inside  of  the  border;  glaze  the 
border  with  egg,  and  then  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  400° 
Fahr.  While  the  above  is  baking,  make  very  small  choux 
(about  the  size  of  a  macaroon),  and  bake  them  also.  When 
both  are  baked,  and  while  they  are  cooking,  make  some 
creme  legere,  fill  the  inside  of  the  cake  with  it,  so  as  to 
.mitate  a  sugar-loaf  or  mound,  about  four  inches  in 


124 


PASTKY. 


height,  smooth  it  or  scallop  it  with  a  knife.  Put  twc 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  two  of  water  in  a  saucepan,  set 
it  on  the  fire,  toss  the  pan  occasionally  to  boil  evenly,  and 
till  it  becomes  like  syrup.  Do  not  stir  too  much,  else  it 
will  turn  white  and  somewhat  like  molasses-candy.  It 
is  reduced  enough  when,  by  dipping  (not  stirring)  a  little 
stick  in  it  and  dipping  it  again  immediately  in  cold 
water,  the  syrup-like  liquor  that  has  adhered  to  it  breaks 
easily  and  is  very  transparent.  It  must  be  as  transparent 
as  glass.  As  soon  as  reduced  thus,  take  from  the  fire  and 
use.  Dip  the  top  of  each  small  chou  in  it,  holding  the 
chou  with  a  small  knife  stuck  in  it ;  place  a  piece  of  candy 
(generally,  sugar-plums  of  various  colors  are  used)  on  the 
top  of  eachckou;  place  them  apart  and  around  the  creme 
tigere,  and  upon  the  border  of  the  cake,  with  one  a  little 
larger  than  the  others  on  the  top  of  it ;  serve  cold.  This 
cake  is  as  good  as  it  is  sightly. 

Eclairs. — Eclairs  are  also  called  petite  pains  or  profite- 
rolles  au  chocolat. 

Eclairs  au  Chocolat. — Make  some  pate  a  choux  as 
directed  above,  and  put  it  in  the  pastry-bag  with  tube  No. 
1  at  the  end  of  it.  Force  it  out  of  the  bag  into  a  baking- 
pan  greased  with  butter.  By  closing  and  holding  up  the 
larger  end  of  the  bag  and  by  pressing  it  downward,  it  will 
come  out  of  the  tube  in  a  rope-like  shape  and  of  the  size 
of  the  tube.  Draw  the  bag  toward  you  while  pressing, 
and  stop  when  you  have  spread  a  length  of  about  four 
inches.  Repeat  this  operation  till  the  baking-pan  is  full  or 
till  the  paste  is  all  out.  Leave  a  space  of  about  two  inches 
between  each  cake,  as  they  swell  in  baking.  Bake  in  an 
oven  at  about  370  degrees.  "When  baked  and  cold,  slit 
one  side  about  half  through,  open  gently  and  fill  each  cake 
with  the  following  cream,  and  then  close  it.  Cream  :  put 


PASTEY.  425 

ji  a  block-tin  saucepan  three  tablespoon  fills  of  sugar,  two 
of  flour,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  and  mix  well  with  a  wooden 
spoon.  Add  a  pint  of  milk,  little  by  little,  and  mixing  the 
while;  set  on  the  fire,  stir  continually  till  it  becomes 
rather  thick,  and  take  off.  Have  one  ounce  of  chocolate 
melted  on  a  slow  fire  in  half  a  gill  of  milk,  and  mix  it  with 
tbe  rest,  and  use.  Put  one  ounce  of  chocolate  in  a  tin 
saucepan  with  a  teaspoonful  of  water,  and  set  on  a  slow 
fire  ;  when  melted,  mix  with  it  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar, 
stir  for  a  while ;  that  is,  till  it  is  just  thick  enough  to 
spread  it  over  the  cakes,  and  not  liquid  enough  to  run 
down  the  sides.  A  thickness  of  about  one-sixteenth  of 
an  inch  is  sufficient.  The  cakes  may  either  be  dipped  in 
the  chocolate  or  the  chocolate  may  be  spread  over  them 
with  a  knife.  Serve  cold. 

Eclairs  au  Cafe. — It  is  made  exactly  like  the  above, 

except  that  you  mix  with  the  cream  three  tablespoonfuls 

of  strong  coffee,  instead  of  chocolate  and  milk. 

Eclairs  au  The. — It  is  made  like  the  preceding  one, 

with  the  exception  that  strong  tea  is  used  instead  of  strong 

coffee. 

Eclairs  a  la  Vanille. — Proceed  as  for  the  above,  but 

mix  a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  vanilla  in  tbe  cream  instead 

of  tea. 

Eclairs  a  V Essence. — The  meaning  of  eclairs  a  Fessenci 

is,  that  a  few  drops  of  any  kind  of  essence  are  mixed  witl 

the  cream  instead  of  chocolate  and  milk,  and  prepared  and 

served  like  tbe  others. 

Eclairs  aux  Fraises. — Instead  of  filling  the  cakes  with 

cream,  fill  them  with  strawberry-jelly,  and  for  the   rest 

proceed  as  for  eclairs  au  chocolat. 

Eclairs  aux  Groseilles. — Made  .ike  the  above,  but  filled 

with  currant-jelly. 


4:26  PASTRY. 

Do  the  same  with  apple,  blackberry,  cherry,  grapef 
peach,  pear,  plum,  quince,  raspberry  jelly,  etc. 

Petite  Pains  a  la  Edne. — Eclairs  are  so  called  when 
filled  with  marmalade  of  peaches  in  which  sweet  almonds 
chopped  fine  have  been  mixed  previously. 

Petits  Pains  a  la  Rose. — Like  the  above,  and  by  add- 
ing a  few  drops  of  essence  of  roses  to  the  marmalade. 

Petits  Pains  a  V Essence. — Like  the  above,  with  any 
kind  of  essence :  pink,  violet,  geranium,  etc. 

Biscuits  in  Boxes. — Make  some  square  boxes  with 
sheets  of  white  paper;  fill  them  about  two-thirds  full 
with  the  same  mixture  as  for  lady's  fingers,  dust  with 
sugar,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  ;  serve  cold. 

With  Almonds. — Mix  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon  four  yolks  of  eggs  with  four  ounces  of  sugar  (pul- 
verized), add  three  ounces  of  flour  and  mix  well  again. 
Beat  the  four  whites  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  then  have  some- 
body to  turn  the  mixture  into  them  while  you  finish  beat- 
ing, and  then  mix  the  whole  gently  but  well.  It  must  not 
be  stirred  too  much.  Have  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds 
well  pounded,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  mix  them 
with  the  rest.  Butter  small  moulds,  turn  the  mixture  into 
them,  filling  about  two-thirds  full,  glaze  with  egg,  dust 
with  sugar,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  300  degrees  Fahr. ; 
serve  cold. 

With  Chocolate. — Make  some  biscuits  like  the  above, 
omitting  the  almonds,  and  flavoring  them  with  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  vanilla.  When  cold,  glaze  them  with  choco- 
late, the  same  as  described  for  eclairs,  and  serve. 

With  Essence. — Make  biscuits  with  almonds  or  with- 
out, as  the  above  ones,  and  flavor  them  with  any  kind  of 
essence,  or  with  orange  and  lemon  rind  grated. 

Glazed. — When   the  biscuits  are  baked,  glaze  them 


PASTRY.  427 

witli  icing,  and  serve  cold;  These  are  sometimes  called 
biscuits  a  la  royale. 

Of  Rheims. — Mix  well  in  a  bowl  six  yolks  of  eggs 
with  six  ounces  of  sugar,  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Add 
and  mix  with  the  above  five  ounces  of  flour  and  lemon- 
rind  grated;  beat  four  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  mix  them  also  with  the  rest  Butter  small  moulds, 
turn  the  mixture  into  them,  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven, 
about  300  degrees  Fahr.  These  are  often  made  of  the 
shape  of  lady's  fingers.  They  are  excellent  eaten  with 
wine. 

With  Filberts. — Put  ten  or  twelve  ounces  of  filberts 
or  peanuts  in  a  mortar  with  a  few  drops  of  orange-flower 
water  and  about  half  the  white  of  an  egg ;  when  reduced  to 
a  paste,  mix  well  with  it  four  ounces  of  sifted  flour,  eight 
ounces  of  fine,  white  sugar,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  the  whites  of  four  eggs  whisked  to  a  froth ; 
when  the  whole  is  properly  mixed,  put  it  into  a  well-but- 
tered mould,  which  place  in  a  moderately-heated  oven ; 
watch  it  carefully,  take  out  when  cooked,  which  is  easily 
known  by  the  color  it  assumes. 

Biscuits  with  hazel-nuts,  peach,  or  other  kernels,  may 
be  made  in  the  same  way ;  that  is,  using  them  instead  of 
filberts. 

Lady's  Fingers. — Mix  well  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon  four  yolks  of  eggs  and  four  ounces  of  pulverized 
sugar,  then  add  three  ounces  of  flour  and  mix  well  again. 
Beat  four  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  ;  have  somebody 
to  turn  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  mixture  into  the  whites 
as  soon  as  beaten  enough,  and  which  you  mix  with  the 
egg-beater,  then  turn  the  rest  of  the  mixture  in,  mixing 
gently  with  the  wooden  spoon.  This  must  be  done  rather 
quickly,  to  prevent  the  whole  from  turning  liquid.  Put 


428 


PASTKY, 


the  mixture  in  the  pastry-bag  with  tin  tube  No.  1  at  the 
end  of  it,  squeeze  it  out  in  sticks  about  four  inches  long  into 
a  baking-pan  slightly  buttered  and  dusted  with  flour,  or  on 
a  piece  of  paper  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pan ;  then 
dust  them  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  rather  slow  oven. 
They  must  not  change  in  the  oven,  that  is,  they  must  not 
spread  or  swell,  showing  that  the  oven  is  too  hot  or  too 
slow,  or  that  the  mixture  has  not  been  properly  prepared. 
They  must  be  like  small  sticks,  round  on  the  upper  side 
and  flat  underneath.  They  are  sometimes  called  biscuits 
a  la  cuiller.  They  are  used  to  make  a  Charlotte  Russe,  or 
eaten  with  wine. 

CAKES. — Almond. — Blanch,  skin,  and  pound  well  one 
ounce  of  sweet  almonds  and  the  same  of  bitter  ones, 
which  you  mix  with  eight  ounces  of  pulverized  sugar,  six 
of  flour,  two  eggs,  a  tablespoonful  of  brandy  or  rum,  and 
a  pinch  of  sugar.  When  thoroughly  mixed,  add  five 
yolks  of  eggs,  mix  and  stir  for  five  minutes,  then  add  also 
and  mix  half  a  pound  of  melted  butter.  Turn  the  mix- 
ture in  small  moulds,  well  buttered,  and  bake  in  a  rather 
slow  oven.  Some  almonds  cut  in  small  pieces  may  be 
spread  over  just  before  baking;  or,  when  baked,  some 
icing  may  be  spread  over.  Serve  cold.  This  is  also  called 
Nantais  cake.  Instead  of  almonds,  use  filberts,  hazel-nuts, 
currants,  peanuts,  or  raisins. 

Fourre. — This  is  made  with  puff-paste  and  cream,  or 
puff-paste  and  different  mixtures  placed  inside  of  it,  such 
as  Pithiviers  cake  and  fruit-pies. 

Anchovy. — Knead  four  ounces  of  flour  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  a  little  water.  Clean 
four  anchovies  and  put  them  in  vinegar  for  five  minutes ; 
then  cut  them  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in  a  bowl,  and 
cover  them  with  sweet -oil ;  leave  them  thus  ten  minutes, 


PASTRY.  4:29 

Roll  the  paste  thin,  then  place  a  little  more  than  half  of 
it  on  a  tart-dish,  raising  it  all  around  with  the  thumb  and 
forefinger ;  cover  the  paste  with  the  anchovies,  and  these 
with  the  remainder  of  the  paste,  after  having  cut  it  in 
square  pieces  ;  spread  some  of  the  oil  in  which  were  the 
anchovies  on  it,  bake  in  a  warm  oven,  baste  now  and 
then  with  a  little  of  the  oil,  and  serve  warm. 

Apple. — Stew  eight  or  ten  apples  and  mash  them 
through  a  sieve.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  about  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  eight  of  sugar,  set  on  the  fire  for 
five  minutes,  take  off,  let  cool,  and  then  mix  with  it  five 
or  six  eggs,  one  after  another.  Turn  the  mixture  into  a 
buttered  mould,  which  you  place  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water, 
then  boil  slowly  about  half  an  hour,  turn  over  a  dish,  and 
serve  warm  or  cold. 

Hard. — Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste-board 
and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle;  put  into  it  three 
ounces  of  pulverized  sugar,  three  ounces  of  butter, 
two  eggs,  a  pinch  of  cinnamon,  a  few  drops  of  essence, 
and  knead  the  whole  well,  dust  the  board  with  flour, 
roll  the  paste  down  to  a  thickness  of  about  one-fourth 
of  an  inch,  cut  it  in  pieces  with  a  paste-cutter,  of 
any  shape ;  beat  one  egg  with  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  and 
glaze  the  pieces  with  it ;  with  a  piece  of  wood  draw 
leaves  or  flowers  on  each,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about 
360  degrees  Fahr.  They  are  eaten  cold  at  tea. 

Heavy  or  Gateau  de  Plomb. — Proceed  as  above  with 
one  pound  of  flour,  a  pinch  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  sugar, 
four  yolks  of  eggs,  one  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of 
cream  ;  when  rolled  down  as  above,  fold  in  two  or  four,  and 
roll  down  again  ;  repeat  the  process  four  times.  Then  place 
it  in  a  bakepan  and  put  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  cold  at  tea. 

Milanais. — Put  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste-board 


430  PASTRY. 

and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  in  which  you  put  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  same  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  gill  of  rum.  Mix  and  knead  to  a 
rather  stiff  dough  with  cold  water.  Spread  it  and  roll  it 
down  to  a  thickness  of  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 
Glaze  it  with  egg,  dust  with  sugar  and  bake  in  a  rather 
quick  oven.  "When  cold,  cut  it  in  two,  spread  some  com- 
pote of  peaches  or  of  apricots  on  one  half,  put  the  other 
half  over  it,  cut  in  pieces  according  to  fancy,  and  serve. 

Hum  Calces. — These  are  made  with  sponge  cake  cut  with 
a  paste-cutter,  some  sweetmeats  or  jelly  is  placed  on  the 
middle,  then  it  is  dusted  with  pulverized  sugar,  watered 
with  rum,  and  then  placed  in  the  oven  for  about  two 
minutes.  These  cakes  have  several  names,  according  to 
the  kind  of  sweetmeat  used. 

Savarin.— Put  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste-board 
and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle ;  put  into  it  four  ounces  of 
sugar,  and  make  a  hole  again ;  then  put  in  the  middle  four 
eggs,  twelve  ounces  of  butter,  one  and  a  half  gills  of  milk ; 
mix  and  knead  the  whole  well ;  then  mix  again  in  the 
whole  four  ounces  of  leaven  prepared  as  directed;  butter 
a  mould,  dust  it  with  sweet  almonds  chopped ;  put  the 
mixture  in  it;  put  in  a  warm  place  (about  78  degrees 
Fahr.)  to  rise,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  430  degrees  Fahr. 
It  will  take  about  two  and  a  half  hours  to  rise.  The 
mould  must  not  be  filled,  else  it  will  run  over  in  rising. 

Sauce  for  Savarin. — Put  four  ounces  of  sugar  and 
half  a  pint  of  cold  water  in  a  block-tin  saucepan,  set  it 
on  the  tire  and  boil  till  reduced  about  one-third  ;  then  add 
from  one-half  to  one  gill  of  rum  (according  to  taste),  give 
one  more  boil,  and  turn  over  the  cake.  Baste  the  cake 
with  the  sauce  till  the  whole  is  absorbed  by  it.  Serve 
warm  or  cold. 


PASTBY.  431 

Sponge  Cake. — Mix  well  together  in  a  bowl  six  yolks 
af  eggs  with  four  ounces  of  sugar ;  add  four  ounces  of 
flour  and  mix  again,  add  also  a  few  drops  of  essence,  then 
whisk  six  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them 
again  with  the  rest.  Butter  a  mould,  put  the  mixture  into 
it,  not  filling  it  more  than  two-thirds  full,  and  bake  in  an 
oven  at  about  320  degrees.  Sponge  cake  may  be  cut  in 
pieces  and  used  to  make  a  Charlotte  Russe,  instead  of 
lady's  fingers. 

Apple  Dumplings. — Quarter,  peel,  and  core  the  apples, 
and  cut  them  in  pieces,  then  envelop  them  in  puff-paste 
with  beef-suet,  boil  till  thoroughly  done,  and  serve  warm 
with  sugar,  or  with  apple  or  wine  sauce.  It  may  also  be 
served  with  sauce  for  puddings. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. — Make  a  kind  of  thin  dough  with 
tepid  water,  yeast,  buckwheat  flour,  and  a  little  sugar  and 
salt,  let  rise,  and  fry  with  butter.  Serve  hot  with  sugar, 
or  molasses,  or  butter. 

Corn  Cakes. — Mix  well  in  a  bowl  two  esrsrs  with  two 

OO 

ounces  of  melted  butter,  a  pint  of  corn-meal,  salt  and 
sugar  to  taste.  While  mixing  set  milk  on  the  fire,  and  as 
soon  as  it  rises,  turn  it  into  the  mixture,  little  by  little, 
stirring  and  mixing  the  while,  and  till  it  makes  a  kind  of 
thick  dough.  Butter  well  a  shallow  bakepan,  put  the 
mixture  into  it,  and  bake. 

Crullers. — Mix  well  together  and  work  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  in  a  bowl,  one  egg  with  two  ounces  of  melted 
butter  and  half  a  pound  of  pulverized  sugar;  then  add 
salt,  cinnamon,  nutmeg,  a  few  drops  of  essence,  and  one 
pound  of  flour,  and  mix  again ;  add  also  milk,  little  by 
little,  stirring  and  mixing  at  the  same  time,  enough  to 
make  a  thick  batter.  Divide  the  mixture  in  parts  and  fry 
in  hot  fat.  (See  FRYING.) 


4:32  PASTRY. 

Doughnuts. — Mix  well  together  in  a  bowl  four  eggs* 
with  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  add  two  or  three  ounces  of 
melted  butter  and  mix  again,  then  mix  with  the  whole, 
about  one  pound  of  flour  and  boiled  milk  enough  to  make 
a  rather  thick  dough,  season  and  mix  well  with  the  whole, 
nutmeg,  cinnamon,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence.  Cut  in 
fancy  pieces  with  a  knife  or  paste-cutter,  and  fry  in  hot 
fat.  (See  FRYING.)  Dust  with  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 

Muffins. — Mix  well  together  on  the  paste-board  one 
pound  of  flour  and  three  eggs,  then  add  and  mix  again 
milk  enough  to  make  a  thin  dough,  a  little  yeast  and  salt. 
Put  away  to  rise  ;  divide  in  parts  and  bake. 

Pound  Cake. — Take  a  large  bowl  and  put  in  it  one 
pound  of  melted  butter  and  one  pound  of  pulverized  sugar, 
and  mix  the  two  thoroughly  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon;  then  add  and  mix  well  also  with  them,  three  eggs 
previously  beaten  with  a  saltspoonful  of  nutmeg  and  cinna- 
mon, half  of  each.  When  the  eggs  are  mixed,  add  also 
half  a  pound  of  flour,  mix  well  again ;  then  add  six 
well-beaten  eggs,  and  mix;  then  another  half  pound 
of  flour,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  rose,  half  a  gill  of 
Sherry  wine,  a  liquor-glass  of  brandy,  four  ounces  of 
citron,  and  half  a  pound  of  comfited  fruit,  chopped  fine. 
Beat  and  mix  as  well  as  possible.  Butter  a  mould,  dust 
it  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  turn  the  mixture  into  it, 
and  bake  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven.  It  takes  about 
two  and  a  half  hours  to  bake.  As  soon  as  cold,  serve  it. 
It  may  be  glazed  with  sugar,  or  sugar  and  white  of  egg. 

Short  Cake. — Cut  puff-paste,  made  with  a  pound  of 
flour  and  six  or  eight  ounces  of  butter,  in  square  or  round 
pieces,  bake ;  when  cold,  spread  sweetened  strawberries 
on,  then  cover  with  another  cake,  spread  strawberries 
again  on  it,  etc.  Strawberry-jelly  may  be  used. 


PASTEY.  433 

Plum. — Mix  well  in  a  vessel  a  pound  of  sugar  with  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  then  again  with  eight  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  also  half  a  pound  of  raisins,  half  a  pound  of  flour, 
a  little  rum,  and  a  little  yeast.  Line  a  mould  with  but- 
tered paper,  turn  the  mixture  into  it,  not  filling  it  more 
than  two-thirds  full,  place  it  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven 
for  nearly  two  hours,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve  hot  or 
cold. 

Tea  Cake. — Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste- 
board, and  in  the  middle  of  it  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  an 
ounce  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  four  ounces  of  melted  butter, 
and  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  rather  stiff  paste. 
Knead  well,  roll  down  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness ;  cut  it  in  pieces  with  a  knife  or  paste-cutter ; 
moisten  the  top  with  water  by  means  of  a  brush,  dust 
with  sugar,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  about  370  degrees 
Fahr.  Serve  cold. 

Viennois. — Make  some  biscuits  in  boxes,  and  when 
cold,  cut  off  a  little  piece  on  the  top,  in  the  centre,  which 
place  you  fill  with  peaches  or  apricots  in  compote ;  put 
two  together;  serve  cold. 

With  Jelly. — Proceed  as  above  in  every  particular, 
using  curran4;  or  raspberry  jelly  instead  of  compote. 

MEAT-PIES. 

Pates  de  Viande. — Meat-pies  are  made  in  moulds 
without  bottoms  and  which  open  in  two,  or  are  made  of 
two  pieces  joined  and  fastened  together  with  two  pieces 
of  wire.  The  size  of  the  mould  and  that  of  the  pie  are 
according  to  taste.  A  pie  may  be  made  and  filled  with  a 
reed-bird,  or  with  a  quail,  or  a  partridge,  or  prairie-chicken, 
or  with  a  dozen  of  them.  We  will  give  the  receipt  for  one 
prairie-chicken. 
19 


434  PASTEY. 

Pdte  of  Game. — Bone  a  prairie-chicken  as  directed  foi 
birds,  and  cut  it  in  about  half  a  dozen  slices  or  pieces. 
Grease  the  mould  with  butter  and  put  it  in  a  baking-pan. 
Put  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste-board  and  make  a 
hole  in  the  middle ;  place  in  it  six  ounces  of  butter,  one 
egg,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  about  one  gill  and  a  half  of  cold 
water,  and  knead  the  whole  well.  Roll  it  down  to  a  thick- 
ness of  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch,  and  of  a  rectangular 
shape;  fold  in  two,  and  roll  down  again.  Repeat  this 
from  six  to  twenty  times ;  that  is,  till  the  paste  is  soft. 
The  last  time  roll  it  down  to  a  thickness  of  one-third  of 
an  inch,  and  give  it  as  round  a  shape  as  possible.  Dust 
the  upper  side  slightly  with  flour,  fold  in  two  in  this  way  : 
turn  the  side  farthest  from  you  on  the  other,  so  that  the 
side  of  the  paste  nearest  to  you  will  he  somewhat  round, 
and  the  opposite  one  will  be  straight.  By  pulling  with 
the  hands  the  two  ends  of  the  straight  side  toward  you, 
it  will  make  it  somewhat  round  also  ;  then,  take  hold  of 
the  paste  exactly  in  the  places  where  you  were  pulling ; 
put  it  in  the  mould  with  the  side  nearest  to  you  on  the 
top;  open  it  gently,  and  with  the  hands  spread  it  so  that 
the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mould  will  be  perfectly  lined 
with  it  With  a  sharp  knife  cut  the  paste  even  with  the  top 
of  the  mould.  Line  the  sides  of  the  paste  with  thin  slices 
of  fat  salt  pork.  Mix  in  a  bowl  one  pound  and  a  half  of 
sausage-meat  with  two  eggs,  salt,  pepper,  a  pinch  of  cin- 
namon and  one  of  nutmeg  ;  place  a  layer  of  this  mixture 
about  half  an  inch  thick  on  the  bottom  of  the  paste  ;  then 
a  layer  of  thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork ;  one  of  slices  of 
prairie-chicken ;  again  a  layer  of  sausage-meat,  one  of  salt 
pork,  etc.,  layer  upon  layer,  till  the  mould  is  nearly  full, 
finishing  with  a  layer  of  sausage-meat,  and  giving  to  the 
top  of  the  p&te  a  convex  form,  but  leaving  a  space  of 


PA8TBT.  435 

about  half  an  inch  unfilled  all  around,  so  that  the  top  of 
the  pdte  will  be  about  one  inch  higher  than  the  sides,  and 
half  an  inch  higher  than  the  sides  of  the  mould  and  paste. 
The  cover  of  the  pdte  is  made  with  the  same  paste  as  the 
bottom  and  sides,  or  with  puff-paste. 

Roll  the  paste  down  to  a  thickness  of  about  one-eighth 
of  an  inch.  Glaze  the  sides  of  the  paste  in  the  mould 
with  egg ;  that  is,  the  space  (half  an  inch)  left  unfilled ; 
put  the  paste  for  the  cover  on  the  pdte ;  press  it  gently 
against  the  other  paste  with  the  fingers  in  order  to  cause 
the  two  pastes  to  adhere ;  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  off  the 
paste  even  with  the  mould.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  and 
on  the  top  of  the  cover  about  one  inch  in  diameter ;  cu* 
five  pieces  of  paste  about  three  inches  square,  dust  them 
slightly  with  flour ;  place  them  one  upon  another  on  your 
left  thumb,  keeping  it  erect ;  then  with  the  right  hand  take 
hold  of  the  pieces,  bringing  the  edges  together  so  that  the 
top  will  form  a  ball ;  with  a  sharp  knife  make  two  cuts 
across  and  through  the  five  pieces  ;  form  a  kind  of  stem 
as  if  you  were  to  imitate  a  mushroom  with  these  pieces, 
and  plant  the  stem  in  the  hole;  when  baked  it  looks 
like  a  flower.  Glaze  the  cover  with  egg ;  cut  strips  of 
paste  hi  different  shapes  with  a  knife  or  paste-cutter,  place 
them  on  it  according  to  fancy,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at 
about  390  degrees  Fahr.  The  strips  of  paste  may  also  be 
glazed  with  egg.  It  will  take  about  two  hours  to  bake. 
As  soon  as  cold,  cut  the  cover  all  around  and  remove  it ; 
fill  the  empty  places  with  meat  or  calf  s-foot  jelly  and  put 
it  on  the  dish.  Chop  some  of  the  same  jelly,  put  some 
all  around  it  and  on  the  top ;  cut  some  of  it  also  in  fancy 
shapes  with  a  knife  or  paste-cutter ;  place  it  all  around 
the  dish  and  on  the  top  of  the  pdte,  and  serve. 

The  cut  following  represents  a  plain  pie ;  that  is,  with- 


i36  PASTRY. 

out  any  decoration,  and  immediately  after  having  removed 
the  mould. 


Another,  or  Rabbit-Pie. — Chop  very  fine  and  separate- 
ly one  pound  of  veal,  one  of  beef,_one  of  lean  fresh  pork, 
three  of  rabbit  or  hare,  and  three  of  fat  fresh  pork.  Mix 
the  whole  well  together  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  cin- 
namon, cloves,  and  nutmeg,  all  grated  or  in  powder.  Line 
a  mould  with  paste  as  directed  above,  put  a  layer  of  the 
mixture  in  the  mould  about  one  inch  thick,  place  on  it 
slices  of  truffles,  if  handy  and  liked ;  then  another  layer, 
truffles,  etc.,  till  the  mould  is  full.  If  filled  without  truf- 
fles, it  is  not  necessary  to  put  layer  after  layer.  Cover 
also  as  above,  and  bake  in  a  moderately  heated  oven,  about 
320  degrees  Fahr.  It  takes  from  five  to  six  hours  to 
bake. 

Another,  or  Prairie-chicken  Pie. — Skin  a  prairie-hen 
(or  several)  and  bone  it.  It  is  not  necessary  in  boning  it 
for  a  pie  to  proceed  as  directed  for  boned  turkey,  but 
merely  to  remove  all  the  bones  in  the  easiest  and  quickest 
manner;  you  cannot  spoil  the  flesh,  as  it  is  to  be  chopped. 
Weigh  the  flesh  when  free  from  bones  and  skin.  Weigh 


PASTE  Y.  437 

as  much  of  each  of  the  following:  ham,  sa.t  pork,  and 
calf's  liver.  Grate  the  salt  pork  and  chop  the  three  others 
very  fine,  and  then  pound  the  whole.  Season  with  salt, 
pepper,  cloves  and  nutmeg,  both  grated,  a  pinch  of  cinna- 
mon and  chopped  parsley ;  mix  with  the  whole  two  or 
three  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  in  order  to  mix  better.  Line  a 
mould  with  paste  as  directed  above ;  line  the  paste  with 
thin  slices  of  salt  pork,  fill  it  with  the  mixture,  and  cover, 
bake,  finish,  and  serve  exactly  the  same  as  the  preceding. 
For  two  prairie-hens  it  will  require  about  three  hours  to 
bake.  Slices  of  truffles  may  also  be  used ;  they  are  mixed 
at  the  same  time  with  the  eggs  and  seasonings. 

With  Cold  Meat. — When  the  paste  is  placed  in  the 
mould  as  directed  above,  line  it  with  thin  slices  of  salt 
pork,  then  put  a  very  thin  layer  of  sausage-meat,  prepared 
also  as  above,  then  fill  with  butcher's  meat,  poultry,  and 
game,  having  previously  removed  all  the  bones,  and  cut 
the  meat  in  strips ;  the  greater  the  variety,  the  better  the 
pdte.  Put  a  little  of  each  kind  of  meat  used  in  a  mortar, 
say  from  one  ounce  to  a  pound,  with  parsley,  thyme,  bay- 
leaf,  salt  and  pepper;  pound  the  whole  well  and  then  mix 
with  one  egg,  half  a  gill  of  white  wine,  or  a  liquor-glass 
of  brandy,  to  every  pound  of  meat.  Fill  the  hollow 
places  with  the  mixture,  to  which  you  may  add  a  little 
gravy  or  broth  if  it  is  not  liquid  enough.  Place  thin 
slices  of  salt  pork  on  the  top,  cover  with  paste  as  described 
above,  cook  and  serve  as  above  also. 

Meat-pies,  as  seen  above,  are  made  with  every  tind  of 
meat ;  with  one  or  several  kinds  at  the  same  time,  accord- 
ing to  taste. 

Wines  and  liquors  may  be  used,  it  is  only  a  matter  of 
taste.  The  cover  may  be  placed  with  only  a  hole  in  the 
centre,  instead  of  decorating  it. 


i38  PASTRY. 

By  using  in  turn  butcher's  meat,  poultry,  and  game, 
an  infinite  number  of  different  pates  can  easily  be  made. 

Terrines  (Terreen,  or  Tureen). — A  terrine  differs  from 
a  meat-pie  in  this,  that  instead  of  using  a  tin  or  brass 
mould  and  lining  it  with  paste,  a  terrine  (French  word  for 
terreen)  is  used,  and  is  only  lined  with  thin  slices  of  salt 
pork,  and  closed  with  its  cover.  It  is  filled,  cooked,  and 
served  in  the  same  way  as  a  meat-pie. 

Timbale. — The  name  timbale  is  given  to  a  meat-pie 
when  made  in  a  straight  tin  mould,  lined  as  a  terrine,  and 
covered  with  a  tin  cover.  A  terrine  or  timbale  keeps 
longer  in  winter  than  the  pie. 

Pains  de  Gibier  (Pains  of  Game). — This  means,  loaves 
of  game.  It  is  a  terrine  made  with  any  kind  of  game, 
of  one  or  of  several  kinds,  with  the  exception  that  birds 
are  boned  and  filled  (see  DIRECTIONS  FOR  BONING),  before 
placing  them  in  the  terreen ;  also,  before  covering  the 
terreen,  place  a  piece  of  buttered  paper  all  around,  so  as 
to  have  it  as  nearly  air-tight  as  possible  when  covered. 
Bake  as  above,  and  as  soon  as  out  of  the  oven  remove  the 
cover ;  put  a  piece  of  tin,  sheet-iron,  or  wood  on  the  top, 
large  enough  to  cover  the  meat,  but  not  the  border  of  the 
terreen.  Place  some  weight  on  it  in  order  to  press  the 
meat  down,  and  leave  thus  over  night.  The  weight  and 
piece  of  tin  are  removed,  the  terreen  is  wiped  clean,  the 
cover  placed  on  it,  and  it  is  then  served,  or  served  on  a  dish. 
It  keeps  very  well  in  winter  time,  and  many  are  imported 
from  Europe,  especially  those  made  like  the  following: 

Another. — Cut  four  ounces  of  boiled  beef-tongue  and 
Due  pound  of  truffles  in  large  dice.  Put  about  two 
ounces  of  salt  pork  in  a  frying-pan  on  the  fire,  and  when 
fried,  add  about  six  ounces  of  the  flesh  of  prairie-hen,  cut 
in  pieces,  four  prairie-hens'  and  four  chicken  livers,  eight  in 


PASTRY.  4:39 

all ;  stir,  and  when  turning  rather  brown,  add  also  chopped 
parsley,  salt,  and  pepper;  stir  again  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  and  take  off.  Put  in  a  mortar  one  pound  of 
flesh  of  prairie-hen,  baked  and  chopped ;  one  pound  and 
a  quarter  of  fat  salt  pork,  and  about  four  ounces  of  panade. 
Pound  the  whole  well  and  put  it  in  a  large  bowl.  Then 
pound  well  also  the  six  ounces  of  prairie-hen  flesh  and 
eight  livers  with  twelve  yolks  of  eggs  and  a  wine-glass  of 
Madeira  wine,  and  put  in  the  bowl  also.  Add  to  it  the 
tongue  and  truffles,  and  mix  the  whole  well,  adding  game- 
gravy,  or  meat-gravy  if  more  handy,  about  a  gill  of  it, 
season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  cloves, 
grated.  Bay-leaf  and  thyme,  well  pounded,  may  also  be 
used,  if  liked.  After  being  pounded,  the  whole  may  be 
mashed  through  a  sieve,  but  it  is  really  not  necessary. 
Then  place  the  mixture  in  one,  two,  or  three  terrifies, 
cook,  and  serve  as  above. 

Another. — Take  the  flesh  of  six  prairie-hens  when 
cooked,  and  pound  it  well.  Pound  also  eight  livers,  fried ; 
four  of  prairie-hens  and  four  of  chickens ;  put  flesh  and 
livers  in  a  saucepan  with  gravy,  set  on  a  slow  fire,  and  as 
soon  as  warm,  add  to  it,  little  by  little,  and  stirring  con- 
tinually, about  three-fourths  of  its  volume  of  good  butter. 
When  all  the  butter  is  in,  take  from  the  fire,  mix  one 
pound  of  truffles  cut  in  dice  with  it ;  put  the  mixture  in 
one  or  more  terreens ;  cover,  bake,  and  serve  as  above. 

Terrines  and  pains  are  sometimes  made  with  poultry, 
and  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  game. 

Fish-Pies. — These  are  made  in  the  same  way  as  meat- 
pies,  using  cooked  fish  instead  of  meat,  but  putting  fish 
on'y  inside  of  the  paste.  When  done  it  is  filled  with 
coulis  of  fish  instead  of  jelly.  Serve  as  a  meat-pie.  The 
fish  must  be  free  from  bones. 


±40  PASTEY. 

Fruit-Pies. — Pies  are  made  with  paste  and  fruit  01 
vegetables.  The  imder-paste  may  be  made  of  trimmings 
of  puff-paste,  or  of  the  paste  hereafter  described,  but  the 
top  is  always  made  of  puff-paste.  The  paste  on  the  top 
may  cover  the  fruit  entirely,  or  it  may  be  only  strips  run- 
ning across,  according  to  taste  and  fancy.  The  fruit  is 
used  raw  or  cooked  previously,  according  to  kind ;  if  it 
requires  longer  cooking  than  the  paste,  or  if  it  requires 
to  be  mixed  or  mashed,  it  must  be  cooked  previously. 

Under-Paste. — Put  one  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste- 
board with  six  ounces  of  butter  in  the  middle  of  it ;  also 
two  ounces  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  and  cold  water  enough  to 
make  an  ordinary  paste,  neither  too  stiff  nor  too  soft. 
Roll  the  paste  down  to  a  thickness  of  one-eighth  of  an 
inch,  spread  it  on  a  tin  dish  or  bakepan,  buttered  slightly, 
raise  the  borders  a  little  or  place  a  strip  of  puff-paste  all 
around  it ;  put  the  fruit  in  the  middle,  then  cover  with  a 
thin  piece  of  puff-paste  or  place  strips  of  it  only  over  the 
fruit,  and  bake  in  a  rather  quick  oven,  about  390  degrees 
Fahr.  The  strips  of  paste  are  cut  with  a  paste-cutter 
(caster-like)  and  placed  across;  one  strip  may  also  be 
placed  all  around.  When  trimmings  of  puff-paste  are 
used  for  the  under-paste,  when  placed  on  the  tin  or  bake- 
pan, prick  it  in  about  a  dozen  places  with  a  fork  to  pre- 
vent it  from  rising.  To  place  a  border  around  the  paste, 
you  have  only  to  cut  a  strip  of  it  about  half  an  inch  wide, 
wet  the  paste  with  water  by  means  of  a  brush,  that  is,  the 
edge  or  place  where  you  are  going  to  put  it;  then  take 
hold  of  the  strip,  place  one  end  of  it  on  the  paste  and 
run  it  all  around  till  you  meet  the  end,  cut  it  off  and 
stick  the  two  ends  together  by  wetting  them  also.  When 
the  border  is  placed,  then  put  the  fruit  in  the  middle ;  if 
the  fruit  is  not  cooked,  it  must  be  mixed  with  sugar  and 


PASTES' .  441 

essence,  or  cinnamon,  or  nutmeg,  according  to  kind,  if 
cooked,  that  is,  stewed,  or  in  compote  or  in  jelly,  it  ia 
sweetened  and  flavored. 

The  following  are  used  to  make  pies  :  apples,  apricots, 
cherries,  currants,  blackberries,  cranberries,  gooseberries, 
grapes,  mulberries,  oranges,  peaches,  pears,  pine-apples, 
plums,  quinces,  raspberries,  lemon,  rhubarb,  prunes, 
whortleberries,  etc.  It  is  better  to  stone  the  fruit  before 
using  it.  Pies  are  decorated  in  the  three  following  ways: 

1.  When  you  use  cooked  fruit,  put  a  thin  layer  of  rice 
(prepared  as  for  croquettes)  on  the  paste,  then  a  layer  of 
stewed  fruit;  then  the  strips  over,  and  bake.     Two  or 
three  layers  of  each  may  be  used. 

2.  When  baked,  spread  over  the  pie  some  syrup  of 
apples,  of  pears,  or  syrup  for  compotes. 

3.  Just  before  serving,  spread  some  creme  legere  on 
the  top,  tastefully  and  fancifully,  by  means  of  a  paper 
funnel,  or  with  the  pastry-bag. 

Tarts  and  Tartelettes.—»1hGse  are  small  pies.  Instead 
of  using  a  tin  dish  or  a  bakepan,  you  use  small  tin  moulds, 
such  as  for  madeleines,  and  proceed  exactly  as  for  pies. 

Mince-Pie. — Every  thing  used  to  make  a  mince-pie  is 
chopped  fine,  and  the  spices  are  used  in  powder.  Pre- 
pare paste  as  directed  for  meat-pies,  and  make  it  either 
with  or  without  mould.  Proportions  :  to  three  pounds 
of  beef  add  six  pounds  of  beef-suet,  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants, one  of  prunes,  one  of  raisins,  and  one  of  apples,  the 
rind  of  two  lemons,  two  ounces  of  citron,  and  one  pound  of 
any  kind  of  comfited  fruit;  nutmeg,  mace,  cinnamon, 
cloves,  and  sugar  to  taste ;  also  wine  or  brandy,  or  both, 
to  taste.  Bake  in  a  moderately  heated  oven.  The  fruits 
may  be  used  candied  or  fresh,  the  apples  fresh  or  dried,  it 
is  a  matter  of  taste.  Twenty  kinds  of  fruits  and  meat 
19* 


±42  PASTKY. 

may  be  used  as  well  as  three  or  four ;  there  are  no  rule* 
to  make  a  mince-pie,  since  its  compounds  are  not  used  to 
be  tasted  at  all  separately,  but  as  a  whole. 

Pot-Pie. — Make  a  paste  with  one  pound  of  flour,  two 
ounces  of  butter,  two  ounces  of  beef-suet  (the  latter  pre- 
pared as  directed  for  puff-paste),  a  little  salt  and  water, 
enough  to  make  a  rather  stiff  paste ;  roll  it  down  to  a 
thickness  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  and  fold  it  in  three 
and  roll  down  again ;  repeat  the  process  half  a  dozen 
times,  the  last  time  leaving  it  rolled  down  and  of  the 
thickness  above  mentioned.  Line  the  sides  of  a  pot  with 
it,  lay  slices  or  strips  of  salt  pork  on  the  bottom  of  the 
pot,  then  fill  it  with  strips  of  meat,  any  and  every  kind 
(slices  of  potatoes  may  be  added,  if  liked) ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  cinnamon ;  fill  with  water  or 
broth ;  cover  with  some  of  the  same  paste ;  cover  the 
pan  and  boil  gently  till  done.  When  the  cover  of  paste 
is  laid  on,  make  a  hole  in  the  centre  to  let  the  steam  out, 
and  to  fill  up  with  water  or  broth  if  it  boils  away.  Run 
a  sharp-pointed  knife  or  a  skewer  through,  to  ascertain 
when  done.  Serve  warm.  Proceed  as  above  either  for 
butcher's  meat,  chicken,  and  other  domestic  fowls,  or 
game. 

PUDDINGS. — Puddings  are  made  of  several  materials 
and  in  a  hundred  different  ways.  Some  are  cooked  by 
boiling,  others  are  baked,  and  some  are  both  boiled  and 
baked.  Puddings  for  inhabitants  of  cities  ought  to 
be  made  as  light  as  possible.  For  persons  working  out- 
side and  at  manual  labor,  it  does  not  matter,  because  their 
food  passes  through  the  system  in  a  short  time.  It  is 
very  well  known  that  the  poorer  class  of  Americans  eat 
too  much  pudding  and  pie.  Many  do  it  for  economy, 
others  for  convenience.  The  former  are  mistaken,  and  the 


PASTRY.  443 

alter  are  blamable.  Puddings  and  pies  cost  more  in  the 
end  than  meat  properly  and  carefully  prepared.  We  do 
not  mean  to  do  away  with  them  entirely,  but  we  advise 
every  one  to  do  with  puddings  as  with  every  thing  else, 
"  use,  but  do  not  abuse."  "  Pies,  cakes,  and  sweetmeats, 
are  universally  known  to  be  poisoning  to  children,  and 
the  mothers  who  give  them  are  conscious  that  they  are 
purchasing  the  momentary  smile  of  satisfaction  at  the  risk 
of  after-sickness,  and  perhaps  of  incurable  disease," — 
PETER  PARLEY. 

The  above  needs  no  commentary  ;  we  only  recom- 
mend it  to  the  consideration  of  young  mothers. 

For  Convenience. — We  have  taken  the  trouble  to  put 
questions  about  it  to  over  three  hundred  mothers,  wives 
of  mechanics  or  of  employes  at  a  comparatively  small 
salary,  and  we  are  sorry  to  say,  that  more  than  ninety  per 
cent,  gave  us  about  the  same  answer — they  make  and 
cook  cakes  in  one  day,  enough  to  feed  the  whole  family 
for  three  days,  to  save  the  trouble  of  cooking  every  day. 
We  cannot  see  where  the  trouble  can  be  for  a  good  wife  and 
mother  to  prepare  her  husband  and  children's  dinner. 

Pudding-eating  is  an  Engb'sh  custom  ;  but,  before  fol- 
lowing a  custom  of  another  country,  people  ought  to  con- 
sider if  that  custom  or  fashion  (whatever  it  is)  has  not 
been  introduced  into  that  country  by  necessity,  which  is 
the  case  of  pudding-eating  in  England  and  in  some  parts 
of  Holland. 

In  England,  where  the  fog  is  nearly  perpetual,  the 
stomach  requires  to  be  filled  with  something  heavy,  some- 
thing that  will  stay  there  till  the  next  meal,  and  very  often 
longer  than  that. 

It  is  well  known  that  in  England  farm  hands,  or  other 
persons  working  in  the  open  air,  eat  six  times  a  day,  and 


PASTRY. 

have  pudding  at  least  three  times;  they  drink  home- 
brewed beer,  which  is  very  heavy,  and  very  rich  also.  Let 
any  one  here,  in  this  pure,  clear  atmosphere,  eat  six  times 
a  day,  have  pudding  three  times,  with  a  pint  of  home- 
brewed beer  every  time,  and  see  how  he  will  feel  in  the 
evening.  We  beg  all,  who  may  doubt  our  observations, 
to  try  the  experiment. 

Pastry  in  general,  no  matter  how  light  it  may  be  made, 
lies  heavier  on  the  stomach  than  any  other  food,  and  is 
very  difficult  of  digestion.  There  are  thousands  of  per- 
sons that  have  never  had  any  indigestion  but  of  pastry. 
Children  like  pastry  very  much  ;  this  is  easily  understood ; 
as  their  young  stomachs  digest  very  rapidly,  they  crave 
food  oftener  than  grown  persons.  Pastry  being  easier 
to  have  at  any  time  than  any  thing  else,  it  is  given  to 
them;  and  from  habit  in  youth  arises  the  liking  when 
grown  up.  The  stomach,  being  accustomed  to  it  from  in- 
fancy, may  digest  it  better,  but  it  is  always  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  whole  system  ;  the  stomach  must  work  hard, 
too  hard  in  digesting  it ;  whence  come  dyspepsia,  weak- 
ness, and  finally  consumption,  or  debility,  or  any  other 
sickness  of  the  same  kind. 

The  cut  below  represents  a  pudding  (any  kind),  made 


PASTRY.  4:45 

.n  a  mould,  scalloped,  and  hollow  in  the  middle  ;  any  kind 
of  mould  may  be  used  for  puddings. 

Bread-Pudding. — Soak  half  a  ten-cent  loaf  in  milk  for 
about  an  hour,  and  squeeze  it  with  the  hands ;  place  tho 
bread  in  a  bowl  and  mix  well  with  it  a  gill  of  milk,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  citron,  cut  rather  fine, 
four  ounces  of  raisins,  four  ounces  of  melted  butter,  four 
yolks  of  eggs.  Then  beat  the  four  whites  of  the  eggs  to 
a  stiff  froth  and  mix  them  with  the  rest.  Grease  a  mould 
well  with  butter,  dust  it  with  bread-crumbs,  turn  the  mix- 
ture into  it,  and  bake.  The  mould  must  not  be  more  than 
about  two-thirds  full.  About  400  degrees  Fahr.  is  the 
proper  heat  for  a  bread-pudding.  It  takes  about  forty 
minutes  to  bake.  Serve  with  a  sauce  for  pudding,  hot  or 
cold,  according  to  taste. 

Cabinet  Pudding. — A  cabinet  pudding  is  made  in  any 
kind  of  a  mould  and  of  any  size,  with  sponge-cake  or 
lady's  fingers.  Butter  a  mould  well ;  if  the  butter  is 
too  firm,  warm  it  so  as  to  grease  the  mould  better.  Slice 
some  citron  and  cut  it  in  lozenges  or  of  any  other  shape, 
according  to  fancy,  and  place  tastefully  on  the  bottom  of 
the  mould ;  place  some  raisins  all  around  also.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  cover  the  bottom  with  them,  but  have  some 
here  and  there,  imitating  flowers,  stars,  etc.  Then  puV 
over  them  a  layer  of  sponge-cake,  cut  in  strips  of  any 
length  and  about  half  an  inch  thick ;  on  this  layer  place 
some  citron,  some  comfited  (candied)  fruit  of  one  or  sev- 
eral kinds,  and  all  cut  in  dice,  also  some  raisins  ;  then  an- 
other layer  of  cake,  some  more  fruit,  and  so  on,  till  the 
mould  is  full.  After  having  placed  the  citron  and  raisins 
on  the  bottom,  it  is  not  necessary  to  put  the  rest  in  with 
care  or  order,  but  merely  fill  the  mould  with  them  and  so 
that  they  are  all  mixed  up.  Set  about  a  pint  of  milk  on 


1:46  PASTKY. 

the  fire  and  take  it  off  as  soon  as  it  rises.  Mix  well  in  a 
bowl  three  ounces  of  sugar  with  three  yolks  of  eggs,  then 
turn  the  milk  into  the  bowl,  little  by  little,  stirring  and 
mixing  the  while,  and  pour  the  mixture  over  the  cake, 
fruit,  etc.,  into  the  mould.  The  above  quantities  of  milk, 
sugar,  and  eggs  are  for  a  middling-sized  pudding,  and  it 
will  be  very  easy  to  make  more  or  less,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  pudding.  The  mixture  must  be  poured  over  in 
sprinkling,  and  it  must  nearly  cover  the  whole  within 
about  half  an  inch.  It  must  not  be  poured  too  slowly, 
for,  the  cake  absorbing  the  liquor  pretty  fast,  you  would 
have  too  much  of  it  if  you  were  filling  as  directed  above  ; 
we  mean  filling  till  the  mould  is  nearly  full.  Place  the 
mould  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  so  that  it  is  about  one- third 
covered  by  it,  set  on  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils,  place 
the  whole,  pan  and  mould,  in  an  oven  at  about  380  de- 
grees Fahr.,  and  bake.  For  a  middling-sized  one  it  takes 
about  one  hour.  When  done,  place  a  dish  over  the  mould, 
turn  upside  down,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve  with  a 
sauce  for  puddings. 

With  Vermicelli. — Blanch  four  ounces  of  vermicelli, 
drain  and  drop  it  in  cold  water  and  drain  again.  While 
the  vermicelli  is  cooking,  put  about  a  quart  of  milk  in  a 
saucepan  on  the  fire  with  two  ounces  of  sugar  and  a  piece 
of  lemon-rind,  stir  now  and  then  to  dissolve  the  sugar,  and 
as  soon  as  the  milk  rises,  take  it  from  the  fire,  remove  the 
lemon,  then  turn  the  vermicelli  into  it,  put  back  on  the 
fire,  add  a  tablespoonful  of  butter,  stir  continually,  and 
when  the  vermicelli  is  well  cooked,  take  off,  mix  well 
with  the  whole  four  eggs  and  sugar  to  taste.  Turn  the 
mixture  into  a  well-buttered  mould,  place  it  in  a  pan  of 
boiling  water,  boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  then  place  as  it 
is,  pan  and  mould,  in  a  moderately-heated  oven  to  finish 


PASTRY.  447 

the  cooking.  It  will  take  from  fifteen  to  twenty  ruinates. 
Proceed  as  above  with  macaroni,  tapioca,  etc. 

Plum-Pudding. — Break  with  the  hands,  in  small 
pieces,  about  twelve  ounces  of  the  soft  part  of  good  and 
well-baked  bread,  not  too  fresh,  but  not  stale,  and  grate  it. 
Clean  twelve  ounces  of  raisins  and  currants,  half  of  each. 
Cut  in  small  dice  four  ounces  of  citron  and  four  ounces  of 
candied  orange-rind.  Chop  fine  the  rind  of  a  lemon. 
Butter  a  towel  slightly  and  dust  it  with  flour,  slightly  also. 
Take  twelve  ounces  of  good  fresh  beef-suet,  remove  the 
fibres  and  skin  as  well  as  possible,  and  chop  it  rather  fine 
with  three  or  four  ounces  of  flour,  and  which  put  in  a 
large  bowl.  Mix  with  it  seven  eggs  and  half  a  pound  of 
sugar.  It  is  believed  by  many  that  brown  sugar  is  better 
than  white,  but  it  is  only  a  belief,  if  not  a  prejudice.  Add 
and  mix  again  the  bread,  the  raisins,  and  currants,  the 
citron,  and  orange-rind.  Having  the  whole  thoroughly 
mixed,  add  half  a  gill  of  French  brandy  or  Jamaica  rum, 
a  little  salt,  the  lemon-rind,  half  a  gill  of  cream  or  a  little 
milk,  and  a  little  grated  cinnamon.  Place  the  mixture  on 
the  towel,  and  tie  it  as  fast  as  possible,  giving  it  a  round 
shape.  Drop  the  towel  in  boiling  water,  and  boil  for  from 
four  to  five  hours.  Some  boil  a  plum-pudding  as  long  as 
seven  hours.  It  may  also  be  boiled  in  a  mould  for  that 
purpose,  but  it  is  easier  in  a  towel  and  quite  as  good, 
When  taken  from  the  water,  remove  the  towel,  cut  a  little 
piece  of  the  pudding  off,  to  make  it  stand  better  on  the 
dish.  The  place  cut  off  is  generally  where  the  towel  was 
tied,  being  the  less  smooth.  The  cut  following  shows  a 
plum-pudding  boiled  in  a  towel. 

Serve  with  a  sauce  for  puddings.  The  sauce  may  be 
served  in  a  boat,  or  spread  all  over  the  pudding.  When 
served  the  second  day,  or  cold  for  supper,  it  is  cut  iu 


448  PASTEY. 

slices ;  some  Jamaica  rum  is  poured  over  it,  then  set  on 
fire,  basting  as  long  as  it  ourns,  and  serve.  It  is  generally 
burnt  on  the  table,  but  the  rum  may  be  poured  over  in  the 
kitchen.  The  cut  below  represents  a  whole  one  with  rum 
around  it  and  on  fire. 


Biscottes. — Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  on  the  paste- 
board and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  it ;  put  in  the  hole 
four  ounces  of  sugar,  one  ounce  of  butter,  three  yolks  of 
eggs,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  to  flavor  the  cakes.  Mix 
and  knead  the  whole  well  with  the  hand.  When  like 
dough,  roll  it  under  your  hands  and  bring  it  to  a  rope-like 
form  of  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter ;  cut 
it  in  pieces  about  two  inches  long;  roll  again  with  the 
hand  so  as  to  make  a  ball  of  each ;  then  roll  again  with 
both  hands  so  as  to  give  each  piece  a  round,  elongated, 
olive  shape ;  that  is,  smaller  at  each  end  than  at  the  mid- 
dle. Put  them  in  a  baking-pan,  greased  with  butter ; 
glaze  each  piece  well  with  egg  and  a  little  sugar  beaten  to- 
gether, then,  with  a  sharp  knife,  which  you  dip  in  flour, 
make  a  cut  on  the  top  and  into  each  cake,  lengthwise, 
about  three-quarters  through,  and  bake  in  an  oven  at  350 
degrees  Fahr.  Serve  cold.  It  is  an  excellent  cake  for  tea 
as  well  as  for  dessert. 

With  Almonds. — Add  to  the  above  mixture  one  ounce 
of  pounded  almonds. 

With  Filberts  or  Hazel-nuts. — Add  to  the   mixture 


PASTRY.  449 

for  liscotteSj  one  ounce  of  filberts  or  Lazel-nuts,  pounded 
well. 

Brioche. — Mix  together  on  the  paste-board,  one  pound 
of  flour,  six  eggs,  one  pound  of  butter,  four  ounces  of 
leaven  prepared  as  directed,  and  tepid  water  enough  to 
make  a  rather  soft  dough,  then  beat  well.  The  longer  it 
is  beaten  the  better,  and  the  lighter  the  brioche  will  be. 
By  beating  we  mean — take  hold  of  the  dough  with  the 
right  hand,  raise  it  and  then  throw  it  with  force  on  the 
board  find  in  the  same  place  where  it  was ;  repeat  that  till 
it  comes  off  your  hand  without  any  of  the  paste  sticking 
to  it.  Put  the  mixture  in  a  tin  vessel,  set  it  in  a  warm 
place  (about  78°  Fahr.)  for  about  two  hours  to  rise,  and 
then  put  immediately  on  ice  to  cooL  When  cold,  put  it 
back  on  the  paste-board,  cut  off  about  one-fourth  of  it 
Make  a  kind  of  crown  with  the  larger  piece,  but  not  a  very 
large  one;  let  the  hole  in  the  middle  be  about  three 
inches  in  diameter.  Then  give  the  other  piece  a  rope- 
like  shape,  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  diameter ; 
place  it  over  the  crown,  giving  it  the  shape  of  a  star,  and 
bake  in  an  oven  at  430°.  Serve  warm,  without  sauce. 


Bdba. — Mix  together  and  beat  as  for  a  brioche,  one 
pound  of  flour,  ten  eggs,  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of  but- 


450  PASTRY. 

ter,  four  ounces  of  raisins,  four  ounces  of  citron,  foui 
ounces  of  leaven,  about  half  a  pound  of  different  kinds  of 
fruits,  preserved  in  syrup  or  candied,  all  cut  fine ;  put  to 
rise,  let  cool,  shape,  bake  and  serve  as  a  brioche. 

A  baba  may  be  baked  in  a  mould ;  the  cut  on  the  pre- 
vious page  represents  one. 

Croquignolles. — Put  in  a  bowl  four  ounces  of  flour,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt,  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  four  whites  of  eggs,  and  a  few  drops  of  essence ; 
mix  the  whole  well  so  as  to  make  a  very  stiff  paste.  Then 
put  the  mixture  on  the  paste-board,  and  roll  it  in  a  rope- 
like  form  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter ;  then  cut  it  in 
pieces  about  half  an  inch  long,  glaze  with  yolk  of  egg, 
dust  with  sugar,  and  bake  in  a  warm  but  not  quick  oven. 
Serve  cold  at  tea. 

Galette. — Knead  together  half  a  pound  of  flour,  six 
ounces  of  butter,  two  eggs,  and  a  pinch  of  salt ;  roll  it 
down  to  a  thickness  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  put  in  a  bake- 
pan  in  the  oven,  and  when  nearly  done,  take  off;  mix  well 
together  one  egg  with  a  gill  of  cream  and  an  ounce  of 
butter,  while  the  gdlette  is  in  the  oven,  spread  the  mixture 
over  it,  put  back  in  the  oven,  finish  the  cooking,  and  serve 
cold  at  tea. 

Genoises. — Put  in  a  large  bowl  six  ounces  of  flour, 
eight  of  sugar,  two  eggs,  a  liquor-glass  of  brandy  or  rum, 
and  a  few  drops  of  essence ;  mix  and  stir  the  whole  well 
for  three  minutes,  then  add  two  more  eggs,  stir  and  mix 
one  minute  longer,  add  again  four  eggs  and  continue  stir- 
ring one  minute  longer.  Melt  half  a  pound  of  butter  in 
another  bowl,  and  mix  with  it  about  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  mixture;  when,  turn  into  the  other  bowl  and  mix 
the  whole  well  together.  Butter  a  bakepan,  spread  the 
mixture  in  it,  and  bake  in  a  rather  slow  oven  (about  300° 


PASTRY.  451 

Fahr.).  When  the  top  is  well  baked,  turn  it  over  and 
finish  it.  When  cold,  cut  the  whole  in  strips  about  two 
inches  long,  then  again  across  so  as  to  make  pieces  of  a 
lozenge-shape,  and  serve  as  it  is  or  with  a  sauce  for  pud- 
dings. 

The  same,  with  Almonds. — Pound  well  four  or  six 
ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  place  them  in  the  bowl  with  the 
rest,  and  then  mix,  bake,  and  serve  as  the  above  one. 

Do  the  same  with  bitter  almonds,  hazel-nuts,  peanuts, 
filberts,  and  raisins  ;  flavor  with  any  kind  of  essence. 

With  Chocolate. — When  the  cake  is  cut  in  pieces, 
glaze  it  as  directed  for  eclair  au  chocolat. 

With  Sweetmeats. — When  the  cake  is  cut  in  pieces, 
with  a  sharp-pointed  knife,  cut  off  a  part  of  each  piece, 
on  the  top  and  right  in  the  centre,  so  as  to  make  a  small 
hole,  which  you  fill  with  any  kind  of  sweetmeat  or  with 
any  cream,  and  then  serve.  When  thus  served,  they  are 
called  under  several  names. 

Macaroons. — Throw  into  boiling  water  for  five  minutes 
ten  ounces  of  sweet  almonds,  and  two  ounces  of  bitter 
ones ;  skin  them  well ;  put  in  a  mortar,  and  pound  them 
to  a  paste,  adding  a  few  drops  of  the  white  of  eggs  during 
the  process.  Grind  well  also  a  pound  of  white  sugar, 
with  the  quarter  of  a  rind  of  lemon  well  grated  ;  then  mix 
well  together  almonds,  sugar,  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs. 
Make  balls  of  any  size  with  it ;  put  the  balls  on  a  piece  of 
paper,  beat  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with  half  a  gill  of  water, 
and  glaze  the  top  of  the  balls  with  it  by  means  of  a  brush ; 
put  them  in  a  slow  oven ;  it  will  take  about  fifteen  minutes 
to  cook  them. 

Macaroons  with  Chocolate. — Melt  on  a  slow  fire  and  in 
a  tin  pan  three  ounces  of  chocolate  without  sugar  (known 
as  Baker's  chocolate)  ;  then  work  it  to  a  thick  paste  with 


452  PASTRY. 

one  pound  of  pulverized  sugar,  and  three  whites  of  eggs. 
Roll  the  mixture  down  to  a  thickness  of  about  one-quarter 
of  an  inch ;  cut  it  in  small  round  pieces  with  a  paste-cut- 
ter, either  plain  or  scalloped;  butter  a  pan  slightly  and 
dust  it  with  flour  and  sugar,  half  of  each,  place  the  pieces 
of  paste  or  mixture  in  and  bake  in  a  hot  but  not  quick 
oven.  Serve  cold. 

Madeleines. — Mix  well  together  in  a  bowl  three 
ounces  of  sugar,  three  of  flour,  and  two  eggs,  then  again 
one  ounce  of  melted  butter  and  a  few  drops  of  essence  to 
flavor.  Butter  slightly  small  tin  moulds,  dust  them 
slightly  also  with  flour  and  sugar,  half  of  each,  turn  the 
mixture  in,  filling  the  moulds  only  two-thirds  full,  and 
bake  in  an  oven  at  about  340°.  Serve  cold. 

The  same,  with  Almonds. — Chop  rather  fine  some  sweet 
almonds,  and  when  the  mixture  is  in  the  moulds  as  de- 
scribed above,  spread  the  almonds  over  them  ;  bake,  and 
serve  as  above. 

Do  the  same  with  hazel-nuts,  filberts,  peanuts,  or 
raisins. 

Meringues  or  Kisses. — Put  half  a  pound  of  pulverized 
sugar  in  a  plate,  beat  six  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  as 
directed,  then  have  somebody  to  sprinkle  the  half  pound 
of  sugar  into  the  eggs,  and  while  you  are  still  beating, 
which  must  be  done  in  two  seconds ;  stop  beating  and 
mix  gently  with  a  spoon,  not  by  stirring  but  by  turn- 
ing the  whole  upside  down  several  times.  If  it  is  stirred 
too  much,  it  may  turn  too  liquid.  Put  the  mixture 
in  the  pastry-bag,  with  tin  tube  No.  2  at  the  end  of  it ; 
spread  the  mixture  on  paper  in  a  baking-par,  in  oblong 
cakes  about  three  inches  long ;  dust  them  with  pulverized 
sugar,  and  put  in  an  oven  at  from  220°  to  230°  Fahr.  It 
requires  some  time  to  dry  them,  about  one  hour.  As  soon 


PASTRY.  453 

as  taken  from  the  oven,  place  one  in  your  left  hand,  the 
top  downward ;  press  gently  on  the  under  side  which  is 
up,  with  the  first  finger  of  the  right  hand,  so  as  to  make 
a  hollow ;  put  in  that  hollow  twice  as  much  cream  as  is 
necessary  to  fill  it ;  place  another  cake  prepared  alike  over 
the  cream;  so  that  the  two  will  be  united  and  kept 
together  by  the  cream  ;  do  the  same  with  the  rest ;  place 
them  tastefully  on  a  dish;  dust  them  with  sugar,  and 
serve.  They  are  generally  filled  with  whipped  cream,  but 
may  be  filled  with  creme  legere  or  creme  cuite.  They  may 
also  be  filled  with  creme  Chantilly. 

Swiss  Meringue. — Instead  of  squeezing  the  mixture 
oat  and  spreading  it  in  oblong  cakes,  make  a  crown  of  it, 
then  another  and  another,  four  in  all,  dust  and  bake  in 
the  same  way;  place  them  on  a  dish,  one  above  the  other, 
and  fill  the  middle  of  the  dish  with  cream  as  above. 
Serve  cold.  The  mixture  may  also  be  placed  on  paper  by 
the  spoonful,  but  they  are  not  as  sightly  as  by  means  of 
the  pastry-bag. 

Zephyrs. — Proceed  as  for  meringues  as  far  as  mixing 
the  sugar  with  the  whites  of  eggs,  when  mix  also  with 
both  a  few  drops  of  cochineal.  Put  the  mixture  in  the 
pastry-bag,  with  tin  tube  No.  1  at  the  end  of  it.  Squeeze 
the  mixture  out  and  spread  it  on  paper  in  a  baking-pan, 
in  different  shapes:  dentilated,  convoluted,  overlapping, 
waved,  etc.,  according  to  fancy,  about  three  inches  and  a 
half  long.  Bake  in  same  oven  as  meringues,  and  serve 
when  cold,  as  they  are. 

Nougat. — Throw  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds  into  boiling 
water  for  five  minutes ;  skin  them  well,  and  when  cool  cut 
them  in  four  or  five  pieces  lengthwise ;  then  melt  a  pound 
of  fine  white  sugar  with  two  spoonfuls  of  water,  in  a  cop- 
per or  crockery  pan,  and  on  a  good  fire,  stirring  all  tho 


PASTRY. 

time  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  when  well  melted,  put  the 
almonds  in ;  keep  stirring  about  five  minutes  longer,  take 
from  the  fire,  add  a  little  of  the  rind  of  a  lemon  well 
grated,  oil  the  mould,  put  it  on  the  corner  of  the  range  in 
a  warm  but  not  too  hot  place ;  put  the  almonds  and  sugar 
in  the  mould,  and  little  by  little  take  off  when  of  a  brown 
color,  turn  on  a  plate,  remove  the  mould,  and  serve. 

Pancakes. — Make  a  thin  paste  with  one  pound  of  flour, 
four  eggs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet-oil,  one  of  French 
brandy,  a  little  salt,  the  necessary  quantity  of  lukewarm 
water  and  milk,  about  half  of  each;  let  it  remain  thus 
two  or  three  hours  at  least ;  then  put  about  an  ounce  of 
lard,  butter,  or  oil  in  a  frying-pan,  and  set  it  on  a  brisk 
fire ;  when  hot,  put  some  of  the  paste  in  it  with  a  ladle, 
spread  the  paste  so  as  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan ; 
fry  on  both  sides,  place  it  on  a  dish,  dust  it  with  fine 
white  sugar  on  both  sides,  and  serve  warm. 

Buckwheat  and  other  pancakes  are  made  in  the  same 
way. 

Waffles. — Make  a  thin  paste  with  eight  ounces  of  flour, 
«ix  ounces  of  pulverized  sugar,  two  eggs,  a  few  drops  of  es- 
sence to  flavor,  half  a  liquor-glass  of  brandy  or  rum,  and 
milk.  Warm  and  butter  both  sides  of  the  mould,  put  some 
of  the  paste  into  it,  close  it  gently,  set  it  on  the  fire,  turn 
over  to  heat  both  sides  equally,  dust  them  with  sugjar 
when  done,  and  serve  either  warm  or  cold.  It  takes  hardly 
a  minute  for  each  with  a  good  fire. 

BREAD. 

It  is  next  to  an  impossibility  to  bake  bread  in  a  small 
oven ;  half  the  time  the  bread  is  too  much  or  not  enough 
baked.  In  cities,  where  good  baker's  bread  can  be  bought, 
it  comes  as  cheap  as  it  can  be  made  at  home,  if  not  cheaper, 


PASTET,  455 

%nd  saves  a  great  deal  of  time  and  labor.  It  is  not  diffi- 
cult to  make  good  bread  with  good  flour.  There  are  sev- 
eral ways  of  making  and  of  using  yeast.  Some  are  better 
than  others;  but  many,  though  differently  manipulated, 
bring  about  the  same  results.  The  only  difficulty  is  the 
baking  of  it.  Bakers  can  almost  always  bake  bread  prop- 
erly, having  large  brick  ovens.  If  they  do  not  bake  their 
bread  enough,  which  is  generally  the  case,  it  is  not  because 
they  cannot,  but  because  under-baked  bread  is  heavier, 
and  people,  especially  the  poorer  class,  buy  it  in  preference 
to  the  other ;  judging  by  the  weight,  they  think  they  have 
more  of  it  for  a  certain  sum  of  money.  Under-baked 
bread  is  difficult  of  digestion.  (See  FOOD.) 

The  best  bread  is  made  with  the  best  wheat-flour,  all 
that  can  be  said  by  anybody  to  the  contrary  notwithstand- 
ing. Rye,  com,  and  barley  bread  are  excellent,  and  may  be 
partaken  of  by  those  whose  constitution,  occupation,  etc., 
allow  it.  In  every  thing,  bread  included,  the  people,  or 
what  may  be  called  "  the  million,"  are  wiser  than  soi-di- 
sant  philosophers;  and  if  oat-meal  or  Indian-meal  were 
better  than  wheat>flour,  they  would  be  dearer.  To  de- 
scribe or  discuss  the  innumerable  methods  of  making 
bread  would  require  several  volumes.  We  have  perused 
carefully  hundreds  of  them;  they  nearly  all  differ  theo- 
retically, but  practically,  when  practical  (which  is  not 
always  the  case),  they  amount  to  about  the  same  thing. 
We  think  that  the  only  difficulty,  if  difficulty  there  be,  is 
in  the  use  of  the  yeast,  the  making  of  the  same,  and  the 
baking.  Chemical  processes  for  rising  will  never  equal 
the  processes  of  nature  and  time.  Many  bakers  do  not 
use  the  yeast  properly,  their  bread  being  sour  or  musty ; 
some  sweeten  their  bread,  to  disguise  an  inferior  quality  of 
flour,  or  as  an  antidote  to  sourness  or  mustiness. 


456  PASTE  Y. 

Bread  gets  dry  after  a  while,  and  is  inferior  in  quality 
and  taste.  The  lighter  the  bread  the  better,  although 
many  do  not  think  so.  The  belief  may  come  from  the 
fact  that  the  lighter  bread  is  the  more  porous,  and  there- 
fore the  quicker  it  evaporates  and  loses  its  taste.  Warm 
bread,  besides  being  injurious  to  the  teeth,  is  difficult  of 
digestion.  "When  perfectly  cold,  let  it  stand  in  a  dry  place, 
neither  cold  nor  warm,  for  one  or  two  hours,  and  use. 
We  give  below  the  best  methods  of  making  bread — French 
bread,  or  rather  good  light  bread,  for  we  do  not  see  that 
it  is  more  French  than  Chinese  or  American,  as  long  as  it 
can  be  made  everywhere  with  good  flour ;  it  is  certainly 
the  best  for  inhabitants  of  a  large  city,  and  especially  for 
those  having  a  sedentary  occupation.  Let  us  apply  the 
proverb  to  bread  as  well  as  to  every  thing  else :  "  Feed 
me  with  food  convenient  for  me." — Bible. 

Mix  well  together  one  gill  of  good  strong  yeast  with 
half  a  pound  of  flour,  so  that  it  makes  a  rather  stiff  paste. 
Knead  so  that  you  shape  it  like  a  ball.  Make  two  cuts 
with  a  knife  on  the  top,  across  and  about  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  deep ;  then  place  the  paste  in  a  bowl  of  tepid 
water  (milk-warm),  the  cuts  upward.  After  it  has  been 
in  the  water  for  a  few  minutes  it  will  float  and  swell ;  let 
it  float  about  two  minutes,  when  take  off  and  use.  Put 
six  ounces  of  flour  on  the  paste-board,  and  make  a  hole 
in  the  middle ;  put  into  it  the  yeast  prepared  as  above, 
tepid  water  enough  to  make  an  ordinary  dough,  and  salt 
to  taste.  Knead  well,  shape  according  to  fancy,  put  in  a 
warm  place  (about  78  deg.  Fahr.)  to  rise,  and  bake.  It 
requires  about  six  hours  to  rise. 

Another. — Wash  and  clean  thoroughly  half  a  pound 
of  potatoes,  and  then  steam  them  with  the  skins  on.  Mash 
them  well  with  half  a  pint  of  flour,  about  half  a  pint  of 


PASTRY.  457 

tepid  water,  and  half  an  ounce  of  salt  When  thoroughly 
mixed,  put  away  in  a  warm  place  (about  78  deg.  Fahr.) 
for  one  hour.  Then  add  and  mix  with  it  half  a  pint  of 
good  yeast,  and  put  away  in  the  same  place  for  about  nine 
hours.  It  may  take  a  little  longer  than  nine  hours  or  a 
little  less,  but  it  is  very  easy  to  know,  and  in  this  way  :  after 
a  while  it  will  rise  slowly  and  gradually  for  some  time, 
and  then  begin  to  fall ;  as  soon  as  it  Logins  to  fall,  mix  a 
little  tepid  water  with  it  and  strain  through  a  sieve ;  throw 
away  potato  skins  and  eyes ;  mix  what  is  strained  with 
two  pounds  of  flour  and  tepid  water  enough  to  make  an 
ordinary  dough.  Put  it  away  again  in  the  same  place 
until  it  cracks  on  the  top,  which  will  take  place  in  about 
an  hour.  Then  put  six  pounds  of  flour  on  the  paste-board, 
and  make  a  hole  in  the  middle ;  put  into  it  a  little  tepid 
water  and  the  dough  when  cracked  ;  knead  the  whole  well 
with  water  enough  to  make  an  ordinary  dough,  salt  to 
taste.  To  knead  it  well,  it  is  necessary  to  raise  the  dough 
or  part  of  it,  and  then  throw  it  back  on  the  paste-board 
with  force.  The  more  the  dough  is  kneaded,  the  better 
and  lighter  the  bread.  Then  shape  the  loaves,  let  rise, 
and  bake  in  a  very  quick  oven. 

To  shape. — Divide  the  dough,  as  soon  as  kneaded,  in 
as  many  parts  as  you  wish  to  make  loaves ;  then  knead 
each  part,  one  after  another,  so  as  to  make  a  kind  of  ball ; 
then,  by  rolling  and  pulling  it,  give  it  an  elongated,  sau- 
sage-like shape.  A  pound  loaf  can  be  made  a  foot  and  a 
half  long,  as  well  as  four  inches;  it  will  only  be  narrower 
and  thinner,  and  will  have  more  crust.  When  the  dough 
is  thus  elongated,  take  a  round  stick  or  a  small  rolling-pin, 
place  it  on  the  top  of  the  dough,  right  on  the  middle, 
lengthwise,  and  then  press  on  it  and  roll  just  a  little,  to 
and  fro,  so  as  to  make  a  kind  of  furrow  in  the  middle. 
20 


458  PASTE  Y. 

Have  a  towel  wull  dusted  with  flour,  place  the  dough  on 
it  upside  down,  that  is,  the  furrowed  side  under ;  let  rise 
as  ordinary  bread ;  turn  it  into  a  pan,  but  so  that  the  fur- 
rowed side  will  be  up  (the  side  that  was  down  in  rising 
must  be  up  in  baking) ;  dust  the  furrow  well  with  rye- 
flour  to  prevent  the  paste  from  closing,  so  that  the  top  of 
the  loaf  will  be  concave  instead  of  convex  when  baked. 

Another. — Steam  half  a  pound  of  potatoes  and  mash 
them  well;  then  mix  them  immediately  and  while  hot 
with  about  a  pint  of  flour,  a  quart  of  water,  and  half  a 
pint  of  good  strong  yeast.  Leave  the  mixture  six  hours 
in  a  rather  warm  place,  then  strain  through  a  sieve,  press- 
ing the  potato-skins  so  as  to  squeeze  all  the  liquid  out  of 
them.  Immediately  add  to  the  strained  mixture  flour 
enough  to  make  ordinary  dough,  which  you  knead  a  little, 
and  let  stand  as  it  is  from  one  to  two  hours  and  a  half, 
according  to  temperature.  Knead  then  with  it  about  six 
pounds  of  flour,  salt  to  taste,  and  tepid  water  to  make  or- 
dinary dough,  and  leave  it  thus  two  hours,  then  shape  in 
the  same  way  as  the  above ;  put  it  to  rise  in  the  same  way 
also  (it  will  take  from  one  to  two  hours,  according  to 
temperature)  ;  dust  with  rye-flour,  and  bake. 

French  bread  may  be  shaped  like  other  bread,  round 
or  square ;  it  is  just  as  good. 

Rolls,  or  rather  French  rolls  as  they  are  generally  called, 
are  made,  shaped,  and  baked  in  the  same  way. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  call  bread  certain  mixtures  of  flour, 
soda,  and  milk ;  or  flour,  milk,  and  butter,  etc. ;  it  is  no 
more  bread  than  a  mixture  of  carbonic  acid,  water,  alco- 
hol, molasses,  vitriol,  etc.,  is  wine.  No  one  can  give  a 
name  to  such  a  mixture  except  chemists. 


BILLS    OF   FAKE. 


Dinner- Time. — On  account  of  the  various  occupations 
of  members  of  the  same  family,  this  is  often  the  first  and 
only  time  of  the  day  that  sees  them  all  assembled.  It  is  the 
dinner  that  mostly  supplies  the  waste  that  the  system  has 
undergone  for  twenty-four  hours.  Being  taken  after  the 
day's  work  is  over,  it  gives  to  the  stomach  time  to  digest 
(mind  and  stomach  never  working  at  the  same  time).  (See 
FOOD,  ECONOMY,  COFFEE,  AND  TEA.) 

The  dinner,  being  the  most  substantial  meal  of  the  day, 
requires  more  preparation  than  any  other  meal ;  the  bill 
of  fare  of  it  should,  therefore,  be  made  the  day  before,  or 
at  least  early  in  the  morning.  It  should  always  be  made 
between  the  mistress  or  master  of  the  house  and  the  cook ; 
written  and  hung  in  the  kitchen,  near  the  clock.  The 
first  thing  to  put  down  is  what  may  be  left  from  the  pre- 
ceding day,  and  also  what  may  be  in  the  larder ;  then 
what  is  wanted  in  butcher's  meat  or  poultry,  or  both ;  the 
fish  or  game,  or  both,  and  which,  with  vegetables,  are  ac- 
cording to  the  market.  It  is  then  one  of  the  duties  of  the 
cook  to  make  a  list  of  what  is  wanted  as  accessories ;  such 
as  flour,  eggs,  sugar,  spices,  etc. 


460  BILLS   OF   FARE. 

Besides  the  above,  it  is  also  the  duty  of  the  cook  to 
send  the  dishes  to  the  table  in  their  regular  order ;  for,  if 
the  whole  dinner  is  sent  at  once,  all  the  dishes  have  to 
be  eaten  at  once  also,  else  the  last  get  cold  and  are  un- 
palatable, or,  by  mixing  them,  they  are  rendered  tasteless, 
as  the  flavor  of  one  neutralizes  (if  it  does  not  destroy)  the 
taste  of  another. 

To  make  models  of  bills  of  fare  is  not  difficult,  but  to 
follow  them  is  nearly  impossible ;  hardly  one  in  a  hundred 
would  suit  any  one. 

Bills  of  fare  vary  according  to  the  season  of  the  year, 
and  therefore  to  the  produce  in  the  market. 

We  will  try  to  give  another,  and  we  think  a  better 
way  of  making  them  to  suit  everybody,  every  purse,  and 
at  any  time. 

A  dinner,  no  matter  how  grand,  is  composed  of  three 
courses,  and  seven  kinds  of  dishes. 

The  first  course  comprises  dishes  of  four  kinds,  viz. : 
potages,  hors-d'oeuvres,  releves,  and  entrees. 

The  second  course  comprises  dishes  of  two  kinds,  viz. : 
rots  and  entremets. 

The  third  course  comprises  dishes  of  one  kind,  the 
dessert. 

The  number  of  dishes  of  each  kind  is  generally  ac- 
cording to  the  number  of  guests. 

It  may  also  be  according  to  the  importance  of  the  oc- 
casion for  which  the  dinner  is  given ;  to  the  honor  the 
giver  or  givers  wish  to  show  the  personage  or  personages 
invited ;  to  the  amount  of  money  they  are  willing  to  spend, 
etc. 

The  following  table  shows  how  many  dishes  of  each 
kind  are  to  be  served  at  dinner  to  a  certain  number  of 
persons : 


BILLS   OF   FARE. 


461 


For.. 

2 

4 

i 

10  1C  20  80  40  50  60  60  100 

Persons. 

Serve 

1 

1 

i 

2 

S 

2   4 

4 

4 

1 

> 

8 

Potages. 

2 

2 

4 

4 

6 

610 

10 

12 

12 

16 

Hors-d'oeuvres. 

1 

1 

I 

2 

2 

g 

4 

4 

4 

r, 

S 

8 

Eelev6s  of  fish. 

1 

1 

i 

2 

2 

S 

4 

4 

4 

t; 

s 

8 

u       of  meat. 

2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

S 

S 

s 

12 

1C, 

in 

Entrees. 

I 

I 

1 

1 

2 

S 

2 

4 

4 

4 

| 

s 

8 

Rfits. 

1 

1 

1 

2 

'2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

G 

S 

8 

Salads  of  greens. 

2 

2 

2 

4 

4 

4 

8 

8 

s 

12 

1C, 

1C, 

Entremets. 

2 

2 

s 

4 

4 

c, 

S 

Large  side  pieces  of  Relevos  &  Entree* 

1  2 

2 

4 

4 

• 

u     cakes. 

1 

4 

t 

B 

S 

816'16 

10 

24 

::•_' 

M 

Plates  of  Dessert. 

The  above  table  shows  the  number  of  dishes,  but  more 
than  one  dish  of  the  same  kind  can  be  served ;  for  instance, 
four  kinds  of  potages,  releves,  etc.,  are  served  for  forty ; 
but  two  or  four  dishes  of  each  kind  can  be  served. 

The  size  of  the  releves  and  r6ts  should  be  according  to 
the  number  of  guests. 

It  is  just  as  easy  to  select  dishes  for  a  small  family- 
dinner  as  for  a  grand  one ;  two,  three,  four,  or  more  dishes 
can  be  selected ;  for  instance,  you  select  a  potage,  an  en- 
tree or  r6t,  or  both,  one  vegetable  or  a  sweet  dish,  or  both ; 
and  one  or  as  many  plates  of  dessert  as  you  please. 

Have  a  bouquet  on  the  middle  of  the  table,  if  possible, 
or  at  least  a  basket  of  fruit.  Flowers  during  dinner  have 
the  same  effect  as  music  after  it;  they  soften  the  manners, 
and  gently  and  sweetly  gratify  the  senses. 

To  simplify  and  render  the  making  of  bills  of  fare  easy, 
we  have  divided  the  different  dishes  into  seven  parts,  each 
part  being  in  the  order  the  dishes  of  which  must  be  served, 
and  representing  the  seven  kinds  of  dishes  composing  a 
dinner.  By  this  means  you  select  the  dish  or  dishes  which 
suit  you,  and  which  you  can  procure  in  any  or  all  of  the 
seven  parts,  and  your  bill  of  fare  is  made,  and  more  to 
your  liking  than  any  steward  on  earth  can  do. 

Order  of  dishes. — 1.  Potages.  2.  Hors-d'oeuvres. 
3.  Rcleves:  of  fish,  and  then  of  meat.  4.  Entrees:  beef; 


462  BILLS   OF  FAKE. 

mutton,  lamb,  veal  fish,  poultry,  and  game  last.  5.  Rots  : 
of  meat,  and  then  of  fish.  6.  Entremets :  salads  of  greens, 
vegetables,  eggs,  macaroni,  sweet  dishes,  and  cakes.  7. 
Dessert :  cheese  the  first. 

First  part,  or  Potages. — Any  kind  coming  under  the 
head  of  potages  or  soups. 

Second  part,  or  Hors-d'oeuvres. — These  are  small 
dishes  placed  on  the  table  as  soon  as  the  soup-dish  is  re- 
moved or  even  before,  and  which  are  removed  just  before 
serving  the  sweet  dishes  of  the  entremets.  They  are  passed 
round  after  every  dish,  on  account  of  being  considered 
more  as  appetizers,  as  repairers  of  the  natural  waste  of  ani- 
mal life.  Very  little  of  them  is  partaken  of  at  a  time ; 
they  are  anchovies  ;  artichocTces,  raw ;  pickled  beets  ;  but- 
ter ;  caviare  ;  cervelas  ;  raw  cucumbers  ;  figs  ;  every  kind 
offish,  salted,  smoked,  pickled,  or  preserved  in  oil ;  every 
kind  of  pickled  fruit ;  horse-radish  ;  horse-radish  butter  ; 
melons ;  broiled  mushrooms ;  olives ;  raw  and  pickled 
oysters ;  steamed  potatoes  served  with  butter;  radishes 
and  butter ;  sardines ;  saucissons ;  sausages,  salt  and 
smoked,  but  not  fresh ;  salted  and  smoked  tongue  ;  tunny  f 
walnuts  in  salad. 

Third  part,  or  Releves. — Releves  are  composed  of  fish 
and  large  pieces  of  meat.  A  fish  served  whole  is  always 
a  releve  ;  in  pieces,  it  is  an  entree.  Pieces  of  beef,  mutton, 
and  pork,  roasted,  are  always  served  as  releves.  At  a 
family  dinner  the  releve  is  almost  always  a  fish.  The 
other  pieces  of  meat  that  are  served  as  releves  are :  bear, 
buffalo,  boiled  and  corned  beef,  leg  and  saddle  of  mutton, 
quarters  of  lamb,  large  pieces  of  veal ;  also  all  vol-au-vent 
of  meat  and  of  fish,  bouchees  and  fish-pies. 

Fourth  part,  or  Entrees. — These  comprise  every  dish 
of  meat,  except  poultry  and  game,  when  roasted ;  every 


BILLS   OF   FARE.  463 

dish  of  fish  not  served  whole ;  also  pates  de  foies  gras, 
sour-krout,  snails,  meat-pies,  terrincs,  pains  of  game  and 
of  poultry.  The  dishes  of  meat  mentioned  in  the  releves 
may  be  served  as  entrees  at  a  family  dinner.  The  order 
of  the  dishes  is  described  above. 

Fifth  part,  or  Rots.^Poultry,  game,  and  fish.  At  a 
family  dinner,  lamb  and  veal  are  often  served  as  roasted 
pieces,  especially  at  seasons  when  there  is  no  game,  and 
poultry  is  scarce. 

Sixth  part,  or  Entremets. — The  following  arc  served  aa 
entremets :  all  salads  of  greens  ;  all  dishes  of  vegetables,  of 
omelets,  except  four,  viz.,  with  bacon,  salt  pork,  ham,  and 
kidneys.  Also  dishes  of  macaroni,  of  rice,  eggs  a  la  neige, 
all  sweet  dishes  (sweet  dishes  are  also  served  as  dessert),  and 
cakes  ;  such  as  baba,  brioche,  gcnoises,  madeleines,  savarin, 
and  sponge-cake, 

Seventh  part,  or  Dessert. — The  dessert  comprises  ripe 
fruit,  sweet  dishes  (these  are  also  served  as  entremets,  ac- 
cording to  taste),  pastry  (except  meat-pies,  terrines,  and 
pains),  salads  of  fruits,  and  cheese.  The  latter  is  always 
served  the  first  (see  CHEESE).  After  cheese,  there  is  no 
rule  for  serving  the  other  plates  of  dessert ;  it  is  according 
to  each  one's  taste. 

Punch  is  served  after  the  entrees  or  after  the  releves  of 
fish,  according  to  taste. 

Early  Breakfast. — We  arc  of  opinion  that  everybody 
ought  to  eat  as  little  meat  as  possible,  and  drink  no  wine, 
beer,  or  any  other  liquor  at  an  early  breakfast,  no  matter 
what  the  sex  or  age  may  be,  except  when  prescribed  by 
the  physician  in  case  of  sickness,  debility,  etc.  The  food 
may  be  selected  from  the  following:  bread  and  butter, 
eggs,  omelets,  fried  fish,  fried  vegetables,  sardines,  and  fruit, 
according  to  the  season. 


BILLS   OF   FARE. 

As  for  meat,  in  case  it  should  be  eaten,  it  ought  to  be 
cold,  such  as  fowl  or  veal,  cooked  the  day  before. 

Muffins,  and  other  cakes  or  pastes,  served  warm,  are 
very  bad  for  the  stomach  and  teeth. 

The  beverage  ought  to  be  either  coffee,  with  milk, 
chocolate,  cocoa,  choca,  or  cold  water,  but  do  not  by  any 
means  drink  tea  at  breakfast ;  it  is  too  astringent. 

Although  cold  meat  is  not  by  far  so  injurious  as  warm 
meat  for  breakfast,  it  ought,  nevertheless,  to  be  as  little 
partaken  of  as  possible,  and  especially  by  the  young. 

Late  Breakfast,  Lunch,  Tea,  and  early  Supper. — At 
these  meals  the  following  dishes  may  be  served : 

Every  dish  served  as  a  hors-d'oeuvre,  calf's  head  and 
feet,  bear  hams,  head-cheese,  eggs  cooked  in  any  way,  omelets, 
mutton  chops,  veal  cutlets,  fried  fish,  ripe  fruit,  boned 
birds,  ham,  cold  meat  of  any  kind,  oysters,  pate  defoiesgras, 
salads  of  chicken,  or  any  other  birds,  and  of  lobster,  sand- 
wiches, sardines,  fried  vegetables,  sweet  dishes,  and  pastry. 

Late  Supper. — This  being  the  last  meal  taken  before 
retiring,  persons  should  be  careful  about  what  they  eat  then, 
especially  those  who  take  no  bodily  exercise,  or  retire  soon 
after  it.  Some  are  not  aware  that  their  rest  depends 
nearly,  if  not  entirely,  on  what  they  have  eaten  at  supper. 
The  lighter  the  food  the  better;  such  as  fried  fish,  sar- 
dines, lait  de  poule,  bavaroise,  well-ripened  fruit,  a  cream,  a 
little  iced  fruit,  fruit-jelly,  prunes,  etc. 

The  gastronomical  or  hygienic  rule  to  be  observed  in 
eating,  it  will  be  seen,  is  therefore,  after  the  soup  and 
hors-d'oeuvres,  to  commence  with  the  heaviest  or  most  sub- 
stantial dishes,  and  to  finish  with  the  lightest.  The  rule  is 
just  tne  opposite  for  wines.  Here  we  must  commence  with 
the  lightest,  and  end  with  those  which  contain  the  most 
alcohol,  and  are  consequently  the  heaviest. 


INDEX. 


Allnmcttes,  413. 
Almonds,  44. 
Anchovy,  144. 

butter,  99. 

cake,  428. 

salad,  353. 
Anise,  16. 
Apples,  au  benrre,  878. 

charlotte,  379. 

dumplings,  431. 

flambantes,  378. 

fried,  400. 

meringn6es,  379. 

pie,  440. 

syrup,  3SQ. 

in  compote,  or  stowed,  335. 

u  fritters,  379. 

*•  jelly,  4. 

pine-apple,  380. 

with  rice,  374. 

"    sweetmeats,  330. 
Apricots,  16. 

in  compote,  385. 

"  jelly.  406. 
"  salad,  352. 

iced,  397. 
Artichokes,  306. 

fried,  306. 

(Jerusalem),  307. 
Asparagus,  307. 

fried,  308. 

en  petits  pois,  307. 

in  omelet,  308. 

with  cream,  308. 
"    vinaigrette,  308. 
"    white  sauce,  308. 
Aspic,  275. 

Baba,  449. 
Bacon, 16. 
Bain-marie,  16. 
Bakepans,  17. 
Baking,  9. 

is,  393. 

20* 


Barley,  76. 

lemonade,  44. 
sugar,  45. 

Baps,  132,  135, 138. 
Batter,  30. 
Bavaroise,  45. 
Bay-leaf,  17. 
Beans  (string),  308. 
au  lus,  309. 
mail  re  (Hint el.  300. 
in  salad,  309,  350. 
with  onions,  309. 
pickled,  ML 
(Lima),  309. 
au  jus,  310. 
(dry),  310. 
mattre  d'uOtel,  310. 
with  ham,  311. 
"   mutton,  311. 
"   salt  pork,  310. 
in  puree,  120. 
stewed,  311. 
Bear-meat,  277. 

ham,  277. 
Beef,  162. 

a  la  mode,  163. 
baked,  167. 
in  daube,  164. 
roasted,  165. 
with  garnitures,  166. 
decorated,  167. 
etewed,  164. 
fillet  larded,  168. 

with  mushrooms,  169. 
truffles,  169. 
potatoes,  169. 
tomatoes,  169. 
quenelles,  169. 
Madeira  sauce,  etc.,  169 
en  bellevue,  170. 
ribs,  170. 

with  mushrooms,  etc.,  171 
steaks,  171. 
broiled,  172 


166 


INDEX. 


Beef: 

steaks  with  potatoes,  172. 

"   water-cress,  etc.,  173. 
"   mushrooms,  173. 
"  truffles,  173. 
eantes,  171. 
fancy,  173. 
tenderloin,  168. 
low  cuts,  171. 
boiled  or  cold,  174. 
hashed,  177. 
in  croquettes,  175. 
"  miroton,  176. 
"  salad,  177. 
au  gratin,  176. 
with  vegetables,  etc.,  175, 
corned,  177. 

en  bellevie,  178. 
brain,  179. 
heart,  179. 
kidneys,  180. 
liver,  180. 
tail,  181. 
tongue,  178. 

(smoked),  183. 
with  sauces,  183. 
in  hors-d'oeuvre,  183. 
"  bellevue,  183. 
tripe,  181. 

broiled,  182. 
poulette,  182. 
stewed,  182. 
pickled,  183. 
Beets,  17. 
boiled,  17. 
pickled,  353. 
stewed,  312. 
in  salad,  350. 
Beignets  souffles,  422. 
Berries,  iced,  398. 
preserved,  402. 
with  milk,  401. 
"   liquor,  401. 
in  salad,  352. 
Bichof,  45. 
Bills  of  fare,  459. 
Birds,  278,  279. 

preserved,  46. 
Biscottes,  448. 
Biscuits,  426. 
almonds,  426. 
chocolate,  426. 
glazed,  426. 
with  filberts,  etc..  427. 
vanilla,  426. 
of  Rheims,  427. 
Blackberries,  352. 
in  compote,  386. 
"  jelly,  406. 
preserved.  402. 
Black-birds,  278. 
B'ack-fish,  132,  135. 
Blanc-mange,  380. 


Blanc-manger,  381. 
Blanch,  305. 
Blanquette,  205. 
Blue-fish,  132,  135. 
Bobolink,  278. 
Boiling,  9. 
Boned  turkey,  260. 
Border  of  paste,  244. 

"  rice,  373. 
Bouchees,  420. 

of  fish,  421. 

"  birds,  421. 

"  oysters,  421. 

"  lobster,  etc.,  43 
Boulettes,  117. 
Bouquet,  461. 
Brain,  214. 
Braising,  18. 
Bread,  454-158. 

crumbs,  46. 

farce,  113. 
dding,  445. 


Brioche,  449. 
Broccoli,  318. 
Broiling,  10. 
Broth,  61-70. 
Brown-butter,  100, 
Buffalo,  277. 

steaks,  277. 
Buckwheat  cakes,  431. 
Bunch  of  seasonings,  18. 
Burnt  sugar,  47. 
Butter,  409. 

anchovy,  99. 

lobster,  etc.,  118,  lit. 

melted,  119. 

scented,  119. 
Buttered  paper,  18. 

Cabbage,  313. 

a  la  creme,  313. 

with  apples,  313. 
"   bacon,  313. 

garniture,  113. 

in  salad,  348. 

"  sour-krout,  315. 

stewed,  313. 

stuffed,  314. 

pickled,  353. 

red,  314. 

Cabinet  pudding,  445. 
Cafe  an  lait,  61. 

noir,  51. 
Cake,  428. 

almond,  428. 

apple,  429. 

corn,  431. 

cream,  423. 

currant,  428. 

filbert,  428. 

fourre,  428. 

haael-nut,  etc.,  428. 


INDEX. 


467 


Qftfce: 

hard,  429. 

heavy,  429. 

Madeleine,  452. 

Milanais,  429. 

Nantais,  428. 

Pithiviers,  415. 

plum,  433. 

pound,  432. 

rice,  373. 

Saint  Honord,  423. 

Savarin,  430. 

short,  432. 

sponge,  431. 

tea,  433. 

Viennois,  43S. 

with  jelly,  433, 
CalFs  brain,  214. 

ears,  215. 

feet,  215. 
"    jelly,  53. 

head,  216,  217. 
en  tortue,  218. 
soup,  86. 

heart,  218. 

kidneys,  219. 

lights,  220. 

liver,  221. 

pluck,  222. 

sweetbread?,  22S. 

in  vol-au-vent,  419. 

tail,  223. 

tonjrue,  223. 
Candied  fruit,  403. 
Capon,  256. 
Caramel,  47. 
Cardoon,  316, 
Carp,  132,  135. 
Carrots,  316. 

Bechamel,  318, 

fines  herbes,  317. 

glazed,  317. 

au  jna,  317. 

poulette,  317. 

stewed,  317. 

with  sugar,  318. 

in  puree,  122. 

"  soup,  77. 
Catsup,  18. 

mushroom,  327. 

tomato,  354. 
Cauliflowers,  818. 

Bechamel,  318. 

gratin,  318. 

white  sauce,  319. 

fried,  31«. 

stewed,  319. 

in  salad,  320. 

with  cream,  etc.,  31>. 

pickled,  353. 
Caviaro,  18. 
Celery,  320. 

fried,  320. 


Celery: 

in  salad,  S48,  349. 

"  puree,  122. 
Cervelaa,  19. 
Charlotte  of  fruit,  3S3. 

Francaise,  382. 

Polonaise,  382. 

Russe,  381. 

Italienne,  382. 

a  la  Chant  illy,  38*. 

apple,  379. 
Chartreuse,  284. 
Cheese,  19. 

a  la  creme,  383. 
Cherries  in  brandy,  40*. 

compote,  386. 

pie,  440. 

glazed,  396. 

preserved,  402, 
Chervil,  19. 
Chestnuts,  350. 

candied,  405. 

glazed,  396. 

In  compote,  387, 

Chiccory.  320. 

in  saUd,  348. 

(wild).  348. 
Chicken,  238. 

to  truss,  etc.,  238-241. 

baked,  251. 

boiled,  241. 

boned,  242. 

broiled,  242. 

with  sauce,  242,  243. 

croquettes,  243. 

fricassee,  244. 

supreme,  246,  247. 

financiere,  246. 

francaise,  etc.,  246. 

Marengo,  etc.,  248. 

roasted,  249. 

with  sauce,  250. 

"    garniture,  250, 
decorated,  250,  251. 

saute",  251,  252. 

with  Champagne,  25*. 

stewed,  253. 

stuffed,  253,  254. 

in  pie, 
"  puree,  119. 

vol-an-vent,  419. 

cold.  254. 

in  salad,  256. 

preserved,  44. 

broth,  65. 
Choca,  52. 
Chocolate,  51. 

iced,  398. 


!  Choux,  423. 
I  Chowder,  159. 
Clams,  159. 
baked,  161. 


168 


INDEX. 


Clams  :  chowder,  159. 

Crumbs,  30.  46 

soup,  92. 

white,  46. 

Cochineal,  19. 
Cocoa,  52. 
Cocoa-nut,  352. 

Cucumbers,  321. 
in  hors-d'reuvre,  388. 
pickled,  355. 

Cod-fish,  136. 

In  salad,  350. 

stuffed,  131. 

stuffed,  322. 

(salt),  145,  146. 

Currants, 

Coffee,  47. 

compote,  386. 

iced,  398. 

glazed,  397. 

Colander,  19. 

iced,  398. 

Cold  weather,  22. 
Colored  beans,  310. 

jelly,  406. 
salad,  352. 

Compotes,  384. 

(dried),  57. 

apples,  385, 

Curry,  20. 

cherries,  386. 

Custard,  393. 

oranges,  386. 
berries,  386. 

Dandelion,  323. 

peaches,  etc.,  385. 

in  salad,  348. 

syrup,  384. 

Dessert,  463. 

Contents,  7. 

Dining-room,  20. 

Cooking,  9. 
Corn  (sweet),  321. 

Dinner,  459. 
directions,  16. 

cake,  431. 

Dish,  20. 

Corn-salad,  348. 
Corn-starch,  75, 
Consomme  64. 

Dishes  (order  of),  461. 
Divers  receipts,  44. 
Doughnuts,  432. 

Caulis  of  fish,  101. 

Draining,  20. 

veal,  101. 

Drinking,  21. 

Courses,  460. 

Duck,  264. 

Crabs,  153. 

apple  sauce,  265. 

Cranberries,  387. 
compote,  387. 

cranberry  sauce,  265. 
baked,  265. 

pie,  441. 

roasted,  265. 

Craw-fish,  153. 

with  turnips,  267. 

Cream,  387. 

"    currant-jelly,  265. 

sweet,  392. 

"    garniture,  265. 

cheese,  383. 

saute,  266. 

au  cafe,  388. 

with  peas,  etc.,  266. 

Chantilly,  392. 

stuffed,  268. 

caramel,  389. 

boned,  268. 

chocolate,  389. 
cuite,  390. 

preserved,  46. 
cold  in  salmis,  268. 

essence,  390. 

"     croquettes,  268, 

frangipane,  390. 

"     salad,  268. 

ice.  392 

Duckling,  264. 

lege-re,  391. 

Dust,  to,  21. 

lemon,  387. 

orange,  390. 
patissiere,  391. 

Ears,  215. 
Eclairs,  424. 

renversee,  391. 

au  cafe,  425. 

tea.  390. 

"  chocolate,  424. 

vanilla,  390. 

"  tea,  425. 

whipped,  392. 

vanilla,  425. 

cakes,  423. 

currants,  425. 

Oroque  en  bouche,  394. 
Croquettes  of  veal,  etc.,  206, 

strawberries,  425. 
jellies,  426. 

chicken,  243. 

essence,  425. 

potato,  338. 

Economy,  23. 

rice,  373. 

Eels,  136. 

Croquignolles,  450. 

broiled,  136. 

Croutons,  114. 

fried,  137. 

Crullers  431. 

roasted,  137. 

INDEX 


469 


Eels :  In  matelote,  137. 
stuffed,  137. 
in  vol-au-vent,  419. 
Eggs,  356. 
beater,  24. 
crumbs  to  fry,  30. 
whites  (to  beat),  363. 
Bechamel,  367. 
boiled,  359. 
fried,  360. 
au  gratin,  358. 
a  la  tripe,  362. 
"    neige,  362. 
poached,  362. 
scrambled,  360. 
stuffed,  858. 
Lyonnaise,  357. 
Bur  le  plat,  etc.,  360. 
in  matelote,  361. 
fricassde,  357. 
with  vegetables,  350,  Oil 

"    cheese,  357,  368, 

•'    ham,  etc.,  869. 

"    fines  herbee,  367. 

"    sauces,  358. 
garniture,  115. 
in  salad,  350. 


live,  320. 

in  salad,  318. 
Entrees,  462. 
Entremets,  463. 
Epigramme,  199. 
Errors  in  cooking,  24. 
Escalops,  158,  206. 
Essence  of  beef,  62. 
spinach,  62. 

Fanchonnettes,  416. 
Fane,  416. 
Farces,  113. 

bread,  113. 

cabbage,  113. 

combs,  113. 

croutons,  114. 

duxelle,  114. 

egg,  115. 

financiere,  115. 

liver.  115. 

Macedoine,  115. 

mushroom,  116. 

onion,  116. 

quenelles,  116. 

ealpicon,  117. 

truffles,  117. 
Fat  (chicken,  etc.),  29. 

to  clarify,  29. 

for  frying,  29. 
Fecula,  76. 
Fennel,  25. 
FemlleteX  413. 

a  la  Conde",  414. 
Figs,  26. 


Fillet,  168. 
Fines  herb**,  25. 
Fish,  125. 

to  keep,  33. 

quality,  35. 

to  select,  125. 

'*  clean  for  boiling.  125. 

"       baking,  etc.,  125. 
same  species,  126. 
to  know  when  cookea  enough. 

126. 

"  improve,  126. 
"  bone,  126. 
"  skin,  126. 
u  decorate,  127. 
kettle,  127. 
baked,  128. 
balls,  128. 
boiled.  129. 
broiled,  129. 
cold,  144 
fried,  129. 
a  la  6rly,  130. 
roasted,  130. 

Kllltl-,  131. 

stewed,  131. 
stuffed,  131. 
a  la  crc-mc,  136. 
anchovy  butter,  129. 

sauce,  135, 13f 
Bdchamel,  136. 
Bordelaise,  143. 
Bretonne,  135. 
caper-sauce,  130, 135, 136 
court-bouillon,  135. 
cream-sauce,  136. 
egg-sauce,  136. 
fines-herbes  sauce,  136. 
geneyoise-sauce,  136. 
genoise-sauce,  135. 
gratin-sauce,  132, 135. 
Hollandaise  sauce,  130, 135, 13ft. 
Italienne  sauce,  135. 
Maitre  d'hCtel  sauce,  129, 136. 
matelote  eauce,  132, 135. 
Mayonnaise,  130. 
piquante,  130. 
poivrade,  130. 
remolade,  130. 
Tartar,  135. 
tomato,  130, 135, 136. 
vinaigrette,  134-136. 
bass,  130, 132. 
black-fish,  130, 132. 
blue-fish,  130, 132. 
cod,  136. 
"    (salt),  145. 
eels,  132, 136. 
flounder,  130,  137. 
haddock,  136. 
halibut,  136. 
herring,  130. 

(salt),  147. 


170 


LNTDEX. 


Fish: 

mackerel,  135. 
"       (salt),  148. 

pike,  130, 132, 139. 

porgy,  130, 132. 

ray,  139. 

salmon,  140. 

shad,  142. 

sheep's-head,  142. 

skate,  139. 

trout,  132, 139. 

turbot,  143, 144. 

white-fish,  130. 

clams,  159. 

lobster,  149, 153. 

oysters,  155. 

floating  island,  362. 

Allemande  sauce,  137. 
baked,  137. 
Normande,  137. 

"          another,  138. 
boned  and  fried,  139. 
Flour,  25. 
Foies-gras,  25. 
Fondue,  362. 
Food,  22. 
Fox,  297. 
Frangipane,  390. 
Fricandean,  211, 
Fritters,  393. 
Frogs,  149. 

Fromage  a  la  creme,  383. 
Fruit,  406. 

corer,  26. 

candied,  403. 

glazed,  394. 

iced,  397. 

for  dessert,  401. 

preserved,  353. 

"          in  liquor,  405. 
Frying,  11. 

batter  for,  30. 

fat         "    29. 

lard       "    28. 

directions  for,  11. 

eggs  and  crumbs  for,  30. 

Galantine,  26. 
Galette,  416,  450. 

du  gymnase,  416. 
Game,  276. 

pie,  434. 
Garlic,  25. 
Garnish,  113. 
Garnishing,  113. 
Garnitures,  113. 
Genoise,  450. 

with  almonds,  etc.,  451. 
"   chocolate,  etc.,  451. 
Gibelotte,  293. 
Giblets,  273. 
Glazing,  26. 
Godireau,  117. 


Goose,  268. 

apple-sauce,  etc.,  268. 
Gooseberries  in  jelly,  38C 
Gosling,  268. 
Grapes,  402, 

in  jelly,  406. 

glazed,  397. 
Gravy  of  meat,  55. 

fish,  101. 
Grouse,  280. 
Guinea-fowl,  268. 

Haddock,  136. 
Halibut,  136. 
Ham,  228. 

boiled,  228. 

in  hors-d'oeuvre,  22» 

with  puree,  229. 

decorated,  230. 

roasted,  229. 

with  sauces,  230,  231. 
Hard  cake,  429. 
Hare,  280-282. 
Hazel-nut  butter,  119. 
Head-cheese,  234. 
Herb  broth,  91. 
Herring,  130. 

salt,  147. 

red,  148. 
Highholders,  279. 
Hominy,  324. 
Hors-d'ceuvres,  462. 
Horse-radish,  462. 
Hot  weather,  21. 

Ice-cream,  392. 

Iced  fruit,  397. 

Icing,  53. 

Ignorance  in  cooking,  *4 

Indigestion,  26. 

tsinglass,  26. 

Italian  pastes,  26. 

Jam,  384. 
Jellies,  53,  398. 

sweet  or  wine.  388 

Macedoine,  399. 

cold,  399. 

meat,  53. 

broth,  53. 

chicken,  53. 

turkey,  53. 

calf  s-foot,  53. 

fruit,  406. 
Jelly-bag,  27 
Juice  or  jus,  55. 
Julienne,  73,  74. 

Kid,  201. 

Kitchen  utensils,  27 

Kisses,  452. 

Lady's-fingers,  427. 


INDEX. 


471 


Lalt  de  poule,  28. 
Lamb,  198. 

epigramme,  199. 

fore-quarter,  198. 

hind-quarter,  199. 

entire,  200. 

cold,  200. 

feet,  201. 

kidneys,  201. 
Lapwing,  279. 
Lard,  28. 
Larding,  31. 

needle,  31. 
Leaven,  32. 
Leeks,  324. 
L<jmon  in  compote,  380 

iced,  398. 

pie,  441. 
Lemonade,  44. 
Lentils,  324. 

pur6e,  120. 

soup,  81. 
Lettuce,  824. 

in  salad,  348. 
Lima  beans,  309. 
Liver,  115. 
Lobster,  149. 

to  boil,  150. 

bisque,  TO. 

croquettes,  152. 

butter,  118. 

fried,  152. 

another,  152. 

in  bouchees,  420. 
"  vol-au-vent,  419. 
u  pie,  439. 
"  salad,  151. 

another,  151. 
"  the  shell,  150. 

scalloped,  152. 
Loin,  213. 
Lunch,  464. 

Macaroni,  370. 

croquettes,  372. 

au  gratin,  370. 

Itauenne,  371. 

Napolitaine,  371. 

potage,  77. 
Macaroons,  451. 

with  chocolate,  451. 
Macedoine  jelly,  399. 

salad,  352. 

omelet,  369. 

garniture,  115. 
Mackerel,  135. 

salt,  148. 

Spanish,  135. 
Madeleines,  462. 
Marmalades,  401. 
Matelote,  132-134. 
Meadow-lark,  279. 
Meat,  35 


Meat: 

to  cook,  32. 
"  keep,  33. 
pies,  433. 
jellies,  53. 
gravy,  55. 
Melons,  55. 
iced,  398. 

melted  butter,  119 
Meringues,  452. 
apple,  879. 
Chantilly,  453. 
Swiss,  453. 
Meunidre,  56. 
Mince-pie,  441. 
Mint,  56. 
Miroton,  176. 
Mixing,  12. 
Mock-turtle  soup,  86. 
Motto,  43. 
Moulds,  84. 
Muffins,  432. 
Mulberries,  386,  406. 
Muscles,  153, 154. 
Mushrooms,  325,  327 
broiled,  326. 
puree,  123. 
catsup,  337. 
garniture,  116. 
Mustard,  348. 
Mutton,  184. 
baked,  185. 
roasted,  184. 

decorated,  186. 
with  vegetables,  185. 
haricot,  186. 
breast  broiled,  186. 
with  sauces,  187. 
on  nurses,  187. 
chops,  broiled,  187. 

with  vegetables,  188. 
in  papillotes,  188. 
with  sauces,  188. 
sautees,  etc..  187. 
leg,  190. 

boiled,  192. 
decorated,  191. 
with  vegetables,  190. 
"    currant-jelly,  190. 
"    sauces,  190, 191. 
stewed,  191. 
cold,  192. 
baked,  190. 
roasted,  190. 
with  puree,  190. 
neck,  187. 
saddle.  193. 
baked,  193. 
roasted,  etc.,  193. 
shoulder,  192. 
boiled,  193. 
boned,  192. 
stuffed,  192. 


±72 


INDEX. 


Mutton : 

on  purees,  192. 
roasted,  192. 
with  sauces,  193, 
cold,  in  vinaigrette,  193, 194 
croquettes,  186. 


Oysters : 

a  la  Washington.  15E. 

pickled,  158. 

soup,  90. 
Oyster-plant,  342. 


brain,  etc.,  194. 

Pain  perdu,  394. 

Pains  of  game,  438. 

Nasturtium,  350. 

Panade,  56. 

Nougat,  453. 

Pancakes,  431,  454. 

NouUles,  375. 

Pap,  56. 

Paper,  buttered.  18. 

Oil,  347. 

oiled,  18. 

Oiled  paper,  18. 

Papillotes,  210. 

Okra,  88. 

Parsley,  35. 

Olives,  34. 
Omelet,  363,  364. 

Parsnip,  328. 
saute,  328. 

Celestine,  366. 

stewed,  329. 

Mace"doine,  369. 

Partridge,  282. 

soufflee,  369. 

Paste,  410. 

aux  fines  herbes,  366. 
«u  naturel,  366. 

puff,  410-413. 
for  meat-pies,  484. 

with  bacon,  366. 

Pastry,  408. 

fruit,  365. 

bag,  36. 

cheese,  367. 

P2te  a  choux,  422. 

ham  etc    368 

Pate  4^3 

kidneys,'367.  ' 
lobster,  367. 
mushrooms,  367. 

.Tcltt;,  ftOO. 

de  foies-gras,  25. 
Patties  (bouchees),  420. 
Peacock,  282. 

oysters  and  fish,  370. 

Peaches,  baked,  401. 

rum,  368. 

in  compote,  385. 

sorrel,  367. 

"  jelly,  406. 

sugar,  367. 

"  pie,  440. 

sweetmeats,  370. 

"  salad,  352, 

4    vegetables,  366. 

iced,  397. 

Onions,  327. 

preserved,  401. 

glazed,  328. 

candied,  403. 

in  puree,  123. 

Pears,  in  compote.  386. 

"  garniture,  116. 
"  salad,  351. 

"  salad,  352. 
candied,  404. 

pickled,  353. 

glazed,  396. 

Opossum,  297. 

iced,  397. 

Orangeade,  44. 
Oranges,  compote,  386. 
glazed,  394. 

preserved,  402. 
syrup,  380. 
Peas  (green),  329. 

iced,  398. 

boiled,  329. 

preserved,  405. 
salad,  352. 

au  jus,  330. 
with  ham,  etc.,  330. 

pie,  440. 
Order  of  dishes,  461. 

"    sugar,  330. 
in  puree,  121. 

Osmazome,  34. 

(canned),  330. 

Otter,  297. 

(dry),  330. 

Oysters,  155. 

(split),  330. 

raw,  155. 

in  soup,  80. 

inbouchees,  421. 

preserved,  354. 

"  patties,  421. 
"  vol-au-vent,  419. 

Pepper,  35. 
Perch,  132,  135. 

"  poulette,  158. 

Petits  fours,  410. 

broiled,  157. 

pains,  426. 

fried,  156. 

au  chocolat,  etc.,  4*1 

roasted,  157. 

Pheasant,  282. 

etewed,  158. 

Pickerel,  139. 

scalloped,  157. 

Pickled  cucumber.  355. 

INDEX. 


473 


Pickles,  353. 
Pies,  433. 

decorated,  435 

fruit,  440. 

meat,  437. 

fish,  439. 

game,  436. 

mince,  441. 

pot,  442. 
Pig's  feet,  232. 

head,  233. 

kidneys,  234. 

(sucking),  235,  236. 

tongue,  234, 
Pigeons,  269. 

baked,  271. 

broiled,  269. 

fried,  272. 

roasted,  270. 

Btewed,  270. 

stuffed,  270. 

in  chartreuse,  269. 
44  compote,  272. 
44  crapaudine,  273. 

with  vegetables,  269. 

pie,  436. 
Pike,  139. 

genoise  sauce,  139. 

with  different  sauces,  135, 1M. 

in  matelote,  132-134. 

roasted,  130. 
Pine-apple,  352. 

glazed,  397. 

iced,  398. 

in  compote,  888. 
11  fritters,  393. 

syrup,  380. 
Pithiviers,  415. 
Plover,  279. 
Plums,  402. 

candied,  401 

glazed,  397. 

iced,  397. 

in  jelly,  406. 
44  marmalade,  386. 
44  pie,  440. 
Plum-pudding,  447. 
Poached  eggs.  362. 
Pominees,  414. 
Porgy,  132, 135. 
Pork,  226. 

chine,  226. 

cutlets,  227. 

leg,  228, 

salt,  231, 

ham,  228. 

ears,  etc.,  232. 
Porte  manteau,  414. 
Potages,  61, 

broth  for,  62. 

chicken  broth,  etc.,  65. 
veal,  68. 
vegetables,  69, 


Potages: 

fish  65.  • 

made  quickly,  70. 
bisque  of  lobster,  70. 
"       crabs,  72. 
44       craw-fish,  7* 
bouillabaisse,  72. 
consomme,  64. 
Colbert,  73. 
fancy,  77. 
Julienne,  73,74. 
a  la  Brunoise,  74 
Monaco,  74. 
re"gence,  75. 
royale,  75. 
an  chasseur,  86. 
Chinese,  83. 
printanier,  75. 
veloute",  75. 
with  arrow-root,  75 

"    barlev,  78. 

44    bread,  75. 

44    corn-starch,  75. 

44    carrots,  77. 

44    fecula,  76. 

44    gruel,  76. 

"    giblets,  76. 

"    Indian  meal,  76. 

44    Italian  pastes,  78. 

44    macaroni,  77-79. 

44    mackerel,  77. 

14    nouilles,  79. 

•'    potatoes,  79. 

44    quenelles,  80. 

44    rice,  80. 

44    sago,  76. 

**    semoule,  76. 

44    tapioca,  76. 

44    turnips,  80, 

44    vermicelli,  77. 
puree  Chantilly,  81. 

"  a  la  Conde,  82. 

"    "    Crecy,82. 

44    44    francaise,  81. 

44    "    reine,  84-85. 

44    of  asparagus,  82. 

44    44    artichokes,  82. 

14    "    beans,  81. 

44    "    cauliflowers,  82. 

44    44    chestnuts,  82. 

44    l4    corn,  83. 

44    4l    lentils,  81. 

44    "    Lima,  81. 

44    "    peas,  80. 

44    44    potatoes,  81. 

44    44    pumpkins,  81. 

"    "    squash,  82. 

44    44    tomatoes,  83, 84. 

44    "    turnips,  82. 

44    44    wheat,  82. 

44    44    fowls,  85. 
Soup  majgre,  85. 
mock-turtle,  86 


INDEX. 


Potages  : 

Prairie  hen  : 

soup^sportsman's,  86. 

baked,  282. 

turtle,  87. 

boned,  288. 

clam,  92. 

broiled,  283. 

rice,  88. 

preserved,  46. 

beef  and  mutton,  86. 

roasted,  286. 

muscle,  92. 

saute,  287. 

okra,  88. 

stewed,  287. 

ox-cheek,  89. 

with  sauces,  287. 

"  tail,  89. 
oyster,  90. 
pot-au-feu,  61. 
sheep'  s-  tail.  89. 

vegetables,  283,384. 
currant-jelly,  287. 
garnitures,  287. 
mushrooms,  287. 

sorrel,  89. 

oranges,  287. 

with  cabbage.,  90. 

hunter-like,  287. 

caulinower,  91. 

larded,  284. 

cheese,  91, 

in  chartreuse,  284. 

herbs,  91. 

'  crapaudine,  287. 

leeks,  92. 
milk,  91. 
onions,  88. 

'  croquettes,  288. 
'  fricassee,  287. 
'  pie,  436. 

Allemande,  92,  93. 

'  puree,  119. 

Indian,  93. 

'  salad,  288. 

Polish,  93. 

"  salmis,  288. 

Russian,  94. 

"  terreen,  438. 

Spanish,  95,  96. 
Po'atoes,  330. 

Prawns,  154. 
Preface,  3. 

boiled,  331. 

Preserves  of  berries,  402. 

steamed,  331. 

of  fruits,  401. 

Allemande,  332. 

"  meat,  46. 

Anglaise,  &32. 

"  vegetables,  353. 

Barigoule,  332. 

Prunes,  401. 

Bechamel,  332. 

glazed,  397. 

broiled,  332. 

pie,  440. 

duchesse,  339. 

Puddings,  442. 

francaise,  333. 

bread,  445. 

fried,  332. 

cabinet,  445. 

Hollandaise,  333. 

macaroni,  447. 

Lyonnaise,  &34. 

plum,  447. 

Mattre  d'hotel,  334. 
mashed,  335. 

tapioca,  etc.,  447. 
vermicelli,  446. 

Parisienne,  332. 

sauces,  111. 

Polonaise,  335. 

Puff-paste,  410-413. 

eautees,  336. 

Pumpkins,  340. 

soufflees,  336. 

Punch,  407. 

stuffed,  337. 
swelled,  333. 

Roman,  408,  463. 
Purees,  of  fruits, 

in  balls,  333,338. 

"  vegetables,  120-124. 

"  cakes,  338. 

"  meat,  119. 

"  croquettes,  a38. 

Purslain,  340. 

"  matelote,  339. 

"  provencale,  336. 

Quail,  288. 

"  puree,  121. 
salad,  351. 
with  bacon,  339. 

baked,  288. 
roasted,  289. 
vegetables,  290. 

"    butter,  &39. 

in  chartreuse,  290. 

"    cream,  etc.,  340, 

"  pie,  436. 

soup,  81. 

hunter-like,  289. 

sweet,  340. 

preserved,  46. 

Pot-au-feu,  61. 
Poultry,  237. 

in  grape-vine  leaves,  290. 
Quality  of  fish,  35. 

Pound  cake,  432. 

of  meat,  etc.,  35. 

Prairie  hen,  282. 

Quenelles,  117. 

INDEX. 


4T5 


Quinces,  preserved,  402. 
in  marmalade,  387. 
44  jelly,  406. 

Rabbit,  290. 

baked,  291. 

larded,  291. 

roasted,  293. 

saute,  294. 

stewed,  294. 

in  chartreuse,  291. 
44  civet,  291. 
44  croquettes,  292. 
44  gibelotte,  293. 
44  Marengo,  293. 
44  pie,  436. 
44  vol-au-vent,  420. 

with  olives,  293. 
44    peas,  294. 
44    currant-jelly,  292. 
44    sauces,  291,  294. 

sportsman-like.  294. 

cold,  295. 
l.accoon,  297. 
Radishes,  341. 
Rail,  279. 
Raisine,  402. 
Raisins,  57. 
Raspberries,  compote,  386. 

jelly,  406. 
Raw  materials,  36. 
Ray,  139. 

an  benrre  noir,  140. 
Red  herring,  148. 
Reed-bird,  279. 
Releves,  462. 
Rhubarb,  341. 

pie,  441. 
Rice,  372. 

in  border,  873. 

cake,  373. 

croquettes,  373. 

fritters,  874. 

Bouftle\  374. 

soup,  80. 

water,  375. 

with  fruit,  374. 
Rice-bird,  279. 
Rissoles,  416. 
Roasting,  12. 
Robins,  279. 
Rolls,  458. 
Roman  punch,  408. 
RCts,  463. 
Roux,  109. 
Rum  cakes,  430. 

Sage,  35. 
Sago,  76. 

Saint-Honore*.  423. 
Salads,  347. 

of  greens,  348. 

44  fruits,  858. 


Salads :  of  poultry,  256. 
44      game,  288. 
44      fish,  352. 
Salmis,  296. 
Salmon,  140. 
broiled,  142. 
in  fricandeau,  140. 
44  Gendvoise,  141. 
44  hors-d'oeuvre,  358. 
44  papillotes,  140. 
44  pie,  439. 
44  salad,  141. 
44  scallops,  141. 
caper-sauce,  136. 
court  bouillon,  140. 
maltre  d'hotel,  140. 
roasted,  130. 
salt,  146, 147. 
gmoked,  147. 
Salpicon,  117. 
Salsify,  342. 

Bechamel,  etc.,  341. 
Sandwiches,  57. 
Sardines,  145. 
Sauce,  97. 

Allemande,  98. 
anchovy,  99. 

Bechamel,  99. 
blonde,  100. 
bread,  100. 
brown,  100. 
caper,  100. 
celery,  100. 
Champagne,  106. 
Colbert,  100. 
coulis,  101. 
cranberry,  99. 
cream,  102. 
craw-fish,  105. 
cucumber,  102. 
currant,  99. 
diplomat,  102. 
egg,  102. 
Espagnolle,  102. 
essence,  103. 
fines  herbes,  108. 
fish,  103. 
Genevoise,  141. 
Glnoise,  103. 
gravy,  65. 
Hollandaise,  104. 
Indian,  104. 
Italian,  104. 
juice,  55. 
lobster,  105. 
Madeira,  105. 
mattre  d'hotel,  10ft. 
matelote,  132,  138. 
Mayonnaise,  105. 
muscle,  111. 
mushroom,  106. 
oyster,  111. 


476 


INDEX. 


Sauce : 

Parisienne,  106. 

peach,  99. 

piquante,  106. 

poivrade,  107. 

Polonaise,  107. 

poulette,  107. 

prawn,  105. 

princesse,  108. 

provencale,  108. 

ravigote,  108. 

raspberry,  99. 

remolade,  109. 

Eobert,  108. 

ronx,  109. 

shallot,  109. 

shrimp,  105. 

Boubise,  109. 

supreme,  109. 

tarragon,  118. 

Tartar,  106. 

tomato,  110. 

truffle,  110. 

veloute",  110. 

white,  111. 

vinaigrette,  110. 

for  blanc  mange,  381. 
"  puddings,  111,  112. 
"  Savarin,  430. 
Saucissons,  19. 
Sausages,  19. 
Sausage-meat,  57. 
Sauteing,  13. 
Savarin,  430. 
Scallops,  158. 

on  the  shell,  159. 

of  salmon,  141. 

"  veal,  206. 
Scalloped-knife,  36. 
Seasoning,  14. 
Semoule,  76. 
Shad,  142. 

broiled,  142. 

a  la  Chambord,  142. 

au  gratin,  142. 

in  provencale,  142. 

with  sorrel,  142. 

stuffed,  137. 

roasted,  130. 
Shallots,  37. 
Sheep's  brain,  191. 

feet,  194. 
kidneys,  196. 
tongue,  197. 

Sheep's-head  fish,  142, 143. 
Short-cake,  432. 
Shrimps,  154. 
Simmering,  14. 
Skate,  139. 
Skewers,  37. 
Skirret,  342. 
Skunk,  298. 
Small  birds,  278,  279. 


Small  fish,  126. 
Smelts,  129. 
Smoked  tongue,  188. 
Snails,  303. 
Snipe,  279,  295. 
Sole,  137. 
Sorrel,  342. 

au  jus,  343. 

in  puree,  343. 
"  salad,  350. 
"  soup,  89. 

preserved,  343. 
Souffle's,  400. 
Soups,  61. 
Sour-krout,  315. 
Souse,  58. 

Spanish  mackerel,  135. 
Sparrow-grass,  307. 
Spices,  38. 
Spinach,  343. 

aubeurre,  etc.,  345. 
"  jus,  344. 
"  sucre,  344. 

a  la  creme,  344. 

essence,  52. 
Sponge  cake,  431. 
Sportsman's  soup,  86. 
Sprats,  145. 
Sprouts,  345. 
Squash,  340. 
Squirrel,  299. 
Steaks,  171. 

turtle,  88. 
Sterlet,  143. 
Stewing,  14. 
Stirring,  39. 
Straining,  39. 
Strawberry,  glazed,  398. 

iced,  398. 

in  compote,  386. 
"  fritters,  393. 
"  jelly,  406. 
"  salad,  352. 
"  short-cake,  432. 
Stuffing  of  birds,  253. 

fish,  131. 
Sturgeon,  140. 
Succory,  320. 
Succotash.  821. 
Sucking-pig,  235. 

baked,  235. 

boned,  236. 

roasted,  235. 

decorated,  236. 
Sugar,  39,  376. 

burnt,  47. 

cooked,  376. 

dusted,  21. 

pulverized,  39. 

syrup,  376. 
Sun-fish,  132. 
Supper,  464. 
Syrup  for  compotes,  384, 


INDEX. 


477 


Syrup: 

sugar,  376. 

apple,  380. 
Sweetbreads,  223. 
Sweet  dishes,  376. 

potatoes,  340. 

Tapioca,  447. 
Tarragon,  40. 
Tarts,  441. 
Tartelettes,  414. 
Tasting,  14. 
Tea,  5^. 

cake,  433. 

(meal),  464. 
Tench,  132. 
Tenderloin,  168. 
Terrapin,  87. 
Terreen,  438. 
Thrush,  279. 
Thermometer,  410. 
Thyme,  35. 
Tin  tubes,  40. 
Toasts,  59. 
Tomatoes,  345. 

salad,  351. 

stuffed,  345. 

stewed,  345. 

preserved,  354. 

catsup,  354. 
Tongue,  178. 
Tripe,  181. 
Trout,  139. 

genoise  sauce,  139. 

in  matelote,  132-134. 

with  sauces,  135, 136. 
Troutlet,  139. 
Truffles,  40. 

garniture,  117. 
Tunny,  143, 147. 
Turbot,  143,  144. 

Bordelaise,  143. 

in  salad,  144. 
"  vol-au-vent,  419. 
"  pie,  439. 

roasted,  130. 

cold,  144. 

in  hors-d'oeuvre,  352. 
Turkey,  257. 

baked,  258. 

boiled,  257. 

boned,  260. 

preserved,  46. 

roasted,  258. 

stewed,  259. 

stuffed,  259,  260. 

in  croquettes,  264. 
"  pie,  437. 
"  salad,  264. 

with  cranberry-sauce,  259. 
"    oyster-sauce,  259. 
"    currant-jelly,  259. 

cold,  263. 


Turkey: 

caponed,  264. 
Turnips,  346. 

Bichamel,  etc.,  31*. 

glazed,  346. 

au  jus,  346. 

with  sugar,  346. 
Turtle,  87. 

Vanilla,  41. 
Veal,  202. 

baked,  205. 
blanquette,  206. 
broiled,  208. 
broth,  68. 
croquettes,  206. 
ragout,  206. 
roasted,  203. 
in  scallops,  206. 
44  vol-au-vent,  420. 
with  vegetables,  204. 
decorated,  204. 
breast,  with  peas,  207. 

in  matelote,  208. 

stewed,  207. 
neck,  206. 
cold,  214. 
cutlets,  208. 

baked,  209. 

sante'es,  209. 

with  sauces,  210. 
44    garnitures,  209. 

in  papillotes,  210. 

with  mushroom*,  209. 

en  Bellevue,  210. 
fricandean,  211. 

au  jus.  211. 

financfere,  211. 

with  peas,  etc.,  211. 
loin,  or  leg,  stewed,  213. 

baked,  205. 

roasted,  203. 

decorated,  204. 
shoulder,  on  purees,  etc.,  218. 

baked,  212. 

boned,  212. 

roasted,  212. 

stuffed,  212. 

en  Bellevue,  213. 
brain,  etc.,  214. 

pie,  437. 
Vegetables,  305. 
spoons,  41. 
Venison,  299. 
baked,  300. 
in  civet,  300. 
cutlets,  300. 

with  sauces,  301. 
haunch,  301. 

saddle,  with  currant -jelly,  302. 
shoulder,  302. 

stewed,  302. 

with  truffles,  etc.,  303. 


INDEX. 


Venison : 

cold,  303. 

Vermicelli,  77,  446. 
Vinegar,  347. 
Vol-au-vent,  417. 

of  fish,  419. 

"   oysters,  419. 

"   chicken,  419. 

"   veal,  420. 

"  game,  420. 

"   fruits,  420. 

"   sweatmeats,  420. 

Waffles,  454. 
Walnuts,  351. 
Water,  42. 


Watercress,  347,  343. 
Weak-fish,  132. 
Welsh  rarebit,  60. 
White-fish,  140. 
White  pepper,  35. 
Whortleberry,  386,  440, 
Wines,  42. 
Woodchuck,  297. 
Woodcock,  279. 
in  pie,  436. 
"  salmis,  296. 
Woodpecker,  279. 

Yellow-birds,  87*. 
Zephyrs,  453. 


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This  work  has  been  prepared  to  meet  a  long-acknowledged  want  in  our  homes  and 
schools.  There  is  a  strong  and  growing  demand  for  that  kind  of  knowledge  which 
can  be  made  available  in  the  daily  operations  of  familiar  life.  Various  books  have  been 
prepared  which  cross  the  field  of  domestic  science  at  different  points,  but  this  is  the 
first  work  that  traverses  and  occupies  the  whole  ground.  Hardly  a  page  can  be  opened 
that  does  not  convey  information  interesting  and  valuable  to  every  person  who  dwells 
in  a  house.  The  work  will  be  found  not  only  of  high  practical  utility,  but  captivating 
to  the  student,  and  unequaled  in  the  interest  of  its  recitations. 

New  York:  D.  APPLETON  &  CO.,  1,  3,  &  5  Bond  Street. 


BOOKS   FOR  EVERY  HOUSEHOLD. 


Cooley's  Cyclopaedia  of  Practical  Receipts, 

And  Collateral  Information  in  the  Arts,  Manufactures,  Professions,  and 
Trades,  including  Medicine,  Pharmacy,  and  Domestic  Economy. 
Designed  as  a  Comprehensive  Supplement  to  the  Pharmacopeia, 
and  General  Book  of  Reference  for  the  Manufacturer,  Tradesman, 
Amateur,  and  Heads  of  Families.  Sixth  edition.  Revised  and 
partly  rewritten  by  RICHARD  V.  TUSON,  Professor  of  Chemistry 
and  Toxicology  in  the  Royal  Veterinary  College.  Complete  in 
two  volumes,  8vo,  1,796  pages.  With  Illustrations.  Price,  $9.00. 

"  The  great  characteristic  of  this  work  is  its  general  usefulness.  In  covering 
such  diverse  subjects,  the  very  best  and  most  recent  research  seems  to  have 
been  sought  for,  and  the  work  is  remarkable  for  intelligent  industry.  This 
very  complete  work  can,  then,  be  highly  recommended  as  fulfilling  to  the  letter 
what  it  purports  to  be— a  cyclopaedia  of  practical  receipts."— New  York  Times, 

"  It  is  a  well-edited  special  work,  compiled  with  excellent  judgment  for  spe- 
cial purposes,  which  are  kept  constantly  in  mind.  If  it  is  more  comprehensive 
than  its  title  suggests,  that  is  only  because  it  is  impossible  to  define  the  limits 
of  its  purpose  with  exactitude,  or  to  describe  its  contents  upon  a  title-page. 
Illustrations  of  the  text  are  freely  used,  and  the  mechanical  execution  oi  the 
work  is  excellent."— New  York  Evening  Post. 

The  Chemistry  of  Common  Life. 

By  the  late  Professor  JAMES  F.  W.  JOHNSTON.  A  new  edition,  revised 
and  enlarged,  and  brought  down  to  the  Present  Time,  by  ARTHUR 
HERBERT  CHURCH,  M.  A.,  Oxon.,  author  of  "  Food :  its  Sources, 
Constituents,  and  Uses."  Illustrated  with  Maps  and  numerous 
Engravings  on  Wood.  In  one  vol.,  12mo,  592  pages.  Cloth. 
Price,  $2.00. 

SUMMARY  or  CONTENTS.— The  Air  we  Breathe;  the  Water  we  Drink;  the 
Soil  we  Cultivate  ;  the  Plant  we  Rear ;  the  Bread  we  Eat ;  the  Beef  we  Cook  ; 
the  Beverages  we  Infuse ;  the  Sweets  we  Extract ;  the  Liquors  we  Ferment ;  the 
Narcotics  we  Indulge  in  ;  the  Poisons  we  Select ;  the  Odors  we  Enjoy ;  the 
Smells  we  Dislike  ;  the  Colors  we  Admire  ;  What  we  Breathe  and  Breathe  for; 
What,  How,  and  Why  we  Digest ;  the  Body  we  Cherish  ;  the  Circulation  of 
Matter. 

In  the  number  and  variety  of  striking  illustrations,  in  the  simplicity  of  its 
style,  and  in  the  closeness  and  cogency  of  its  arguments,  Professor  Johnston's 
"  Chemistry  of  Common  Life  "  has  as  yet  found  no  equal  among  the  many  books 
of  a  similar  character  which  its  success  originated,  and  it  steadily  maintains  its 
preeminence  in  the  popular  scientific  literature  of  the  day.  In  preparing  this 
edition  for  the  press,  the  editor  had  the  opportunity  of  consulting  Professor 
Johnston's  private  and  corrected  copy  of  "The  Chemistry  of  Common  Life," 
who  had,  before  his  death,  gleaned  very  many  fresh  details,  so  that  he  was  able 
not  only  to  incorporate  with  his  revision  some  really  valuable  matter,  but  to 
learn  the  kind  of  addition  which  the  author  contemplated. 


£>.  APPLET  ON  &  CO.,  Publishers,  I,  3,  6-  5  Bond  \t.>  New  York 




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